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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/406-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

HWH no response
ktloah
Bypassing coach safety devices
dl_racing427
Source Engineering Ride Enhancement Kit
Bob Keating
Battery Control Center / BIRD Intellitec
David Pratt
HWH no response
bmulvenna@hotmail.com
Dash A/C pretending it is a heater.
Harvey Babb
Bypassing coach safety devices
Ray Davis
Bypassing coach safety devices
Chuck B
Bypassing coach safety devices
BennieH
Bypassing coach safety devices
Ray Davis
Starlink users
BennieH
Slide solenoid
Dennis H
Slide solenoid
David Pratt
Dash A/C pretending it is a heater.
Testdepth
Bypassing coach safety devices
Paul A.
Starlink users
Joelsheriff
Starlink users
JDCrow
Starlink users
BennieH
Bedroom Slide Not working Properly
Corkman
Dash A/C pretending it is a heater.
trailmug
Captain seats
eddie4ne
Modernizing my 2008 Safari Cheetah
McHughes
Dash A/C pretending it is a heater.
Testdepth
Ceramic Coatings
David Pratt
Bedroom Slide Not working Properly
gibsons19
Crown AGM Batteries
Steven P
Dash A/C
Steve Hepfer
Crown AGM Batteries
Barry W
Dash A/C
DavidL
Dash A/C
Steve Hepfer
Dash A/C
Chuck B
Slide solenoid
Dennis H
No headlights and relay solution
StephenW
vinyl graphics protectant
Moonwink
No headlights and relay solution
Mocephus
Ceramic Coatings
Scotty Hutto
Ceramic Coatings
StephenW
Slide solenoid
Hypoxia
2022 BILL D's Monacoers Gathering
Skipperira

New Posts

Intellitec Support - CPU and Keypad backups and restores
William
8 hours ago, pwhittle said:

Hi William,

I don’t think so. The Intellitec PMC Multiplex system was first introduced in the 2005 Signature, then other models in later years.

Paul

Got it. Thanks


HWH no response
ktloah

My 04 Dynasty started to lean to the right in travel mode. After a lengthy phone call to HWH, the tech walked me through some diagnostics. Turned out, it needed a " travel mode" sensor...bought 2, replaced myself,  and good to go. HWH was very helpful but don't wait for them to call. Call again! Had some friends who made an appointment while in Iowa. 5 star service he said!


Bypassing coach safety devices
dl_racing427
20 hours ago, DavidL said:

When a slide lock isn't engaged and / or hydraulic failure, then certainly it's possible for the slide to move while underway.

Very common for folks to drive with slide locks not engaged (circa mid 2000's).

I just cannot fathom why anyone would neglect to install the slide lock bars before driving. 😲
It takes what, 2 minutes, and could prevent major damage, or even save a life.


Source Engineering Ride Enhancement Kit
Bob Keating

Good morning, Steve.

This is where I screwed up, but your plumbing looks correct. Did you lower the coach before you tried to air the bags?

If not, the leveling valve will not send air to the ping. I think I had the same issue. I did not want to put the weight of the coach on empty airbags. When I lowered it, everything worked.

Good luck!


Battery Control Center / BIRD Intellitec
David Pratt

Please give me a call at 321-427-6909 so I can discuss further. It can get lengthy and I do not want to burn up a lot of Forum space. 


HWH no response
bmulvenna@hotmail.com

Talked with Paul at azpete. Sent him pictures yesterday. Hopefully will hear back today. 

Will update when I hear back.


Dash A/C pretending it is a heater.
Harvey Babb

Leak location: my 2000 HR Endeavor had a cooked suction hose where it passed by the turbo. It deteriorated to the point that the hose felt crunchy if you moved it.

 


Bypassing coach safety devices
Ray Davis
1 hour ago, dl_racing427 said:

I just cannot fathom why anyone would neglect to install the slide lock bars before driving. 😲
It takes what, 2 minutes, and could prevent major damage, or even save a life.

I suspect that many readers don't quite know what installing slide locks means.   Many of us have coaches with automatic slide locks and perhaps could understand if  a picture was shown.  My former coach ( HR ) had manual slide locks and the hardest thing for us to remember was to be sure and remove them before opening           I remember in yrs past while shopping for RVs many coaches didn't have any locks and those that did the salesman didn't know what they were for.  Seemed  crazy,    me trying to educate the salesman.

 RV / Motorhome Slide Lock Tips... Dont Forget to Take out slide locks before Operation - Bing video

 Am Tech Sl-1323-1C 13 Inch X 23 Inch Slidelock RV Slide Out Lock, Size: 13 X 23, Black


Intellitec Support - CPU and Keypad backups and restores
rpasetto
14 hours ago, pwhittle said:

Yes. I am running this on Windows 10 64-bit.

For a different project I wanted to resurrect an old parallel port EPROM programmer. I screwed around, bought a new PCI LPT port card, bought a video card for an old PC, bought an adapter for that card, and finally bought another old PC before I got it to run using a DOS boot from USB.

Nothing’s easy.

Paul

That's encouraging to hear.  Maybe the RS232 adapters I was using is the problem.  I tried an old usb-to-rs232 adapter; that didn't work on both the Thinkpads which I tried.  Then a Startech Express card.  I'll try a different card when I get the chance.  Do you recall which card you used?

 


Bypassing coach safety devices
Chuck B

Ray,

I blame 2 people for that.  One is the motor home dealer for not educating a new owner on how to use safety devices, and coach owner for not reading the manuals that come with most coaches.  Some dealers have been known for removing manuals from a used coach before selling it.  A lot of owner issues posted on this site are from owners not taking the time to read the manuals.  A motor home is a very complicated vehicle.  There is the actual driving the coach, and then there is the living in the coach.  

 

Then there are the private sales.  Recently on the group there was a new coach owner asking for help after his purchase in a private sale.  The previous owner took his money from the sale, handed over the keys, and essentially said good bye and good luck.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Dash A/C pretending it is a heater.
CjnCook

In my 2008 Diplomat 40 PDQ, I had the same dash AC leak down issue. Charged by the dealer when I purchased the unit and it leaked down over 3 months. Charged it with 60 oz and leak sealant as the temp/pressure chart indicated. Leaked down again over 3 months. Borrowed a freon electronic and UV detector and started looking. But first I charged 12 oz of leak sealant, 6 oz of compressor oil and 60 oz of freon. Looked from one end to the other. Checked the evaporator thoroughly. Up at night with the UV light and glasses checking every square inch and searching down the tunnels where the hoses pass. No sign of leak detector or oil. After 3 weeks, no leaks detected. The unit is still showing a 15 degree drop. I am beginning to think my previous leak sealant did not have enough concentration of sealant for such a large system to do the job. This time the 12 full ozs of sealant may have done the job. That in addition to the oil charge may have "fixed" the problem. Another bit of info is the unit basically sat for a couple of years before my purchase and the compressor seal may have dried just enough to leak and is now good. Two hour drive last week in 65 degree weather and the unit was blowing out 52 degree cool air. I am thrilled about that.

 

JeffP 2008 Monaco Diplomat 40PDQ


Source Engineering Ride Enhancement Kit
ncsteve

Bob, yes, I had a dumb A*# moment. When I walked out this morning and was staring at the coach parked on the concrete before I was heading to work, thinking I know it is plumbed correctly. THEN I noticed the jack down and the fender gap was more than normal. Then it hit me, Lower the jack! Guess what, then the airbags filled up!! Boy, talking about a DUH moment for sure. I will have to make sure the set themselves when I get home this evening. 


Bypassing coach safety devices
BennieH

I was a control systems engineer/programmer in my early career. You would be amazed at some of the things people would do to bypass safety equipment  in a factory. We have to "Dummy Proof" everything, but the world would always build a better dummy!

When I was in field service, we had strict orders to leave a customer site and call our manager if we found safety systems bypassed/disabled that wasn't related to the original problem.


Bypassing coach safety devices
Ray Davis
3 minutes ago, BennieH said:

We have to "Dummy Proof" everything, but the world would always build a better dummy

         👍😄


Starlink users
BennieH

Waiting for my Beta kit to ship, they estimate mid summer. Will be really interested once available for and RV.


Slide solenoid
Dennis H

David, I'm sorry I didn't respond to your previous post. I had a gremlin somewhere in my internet 'stuff' which Scotty helped me with so I never received a lot of things that were posted. I went back and read what you had posted and yes, I had done the in/out procedure. Strange thing is the generator slide now stays in but the rear slide is creeping out. I called HWH and talked to Paul since we were on the road. He told me they had them in stock, new and rebuilt. The difference in the two are the rebuilt ones have the 1/4 nut on them while the new ones have a flip switch. We are now stable for a bit so I ordered it. I paid $215 for the solenoid. He said to use a pair of water pump pliers to remove the old one and tighten the new one after bleeding the system.

The reason for my post was to get some real life experience from someone as opposed to some 'pro' writing the instructions that come with the part. My son is an IT engineer and when he tries to help me with my internet stuff, he starts out ok but then flies way over my head. Sometimes following the instructions differs from real experience.....I appreciate all the help I can get. This forum is an excellent place to get that info...Dennis


Slide solenoid
David Pratt

Let us know how it all works out.


Dash A/C pretending it is a heater.
Testdepth

So a little more info I’ve discovered. This coach has been sitting pretty much unused for the last 4-5 years so it’s quite possible compressor seals are dried out. After putting in is out 16oz of Freon my compressor did kick on and I had decent, ~ 20 psi lp side pressure my high side pressure was only around 100. I put an additional 12oz can with the stop leak in to see if I could get my high side pressure up thinking I’m just extremely low on Freon for so much piping. At this point I have 42 degree air from the center vent in front. Lp side at about 10 psi and Hp side still 100 psi. Now I take a drive and watch temp at vent. 60 degree outside temperature. My vent temp goes down to 31 deg. stays there for awhile the slowly climbs to 47deg. then cycles back down to low 30s. Continues this for the trip through the mountains where outside temp drops to about 50.

Should there be that much range in the temperature and is this even a valid test with such low outside temperatures?

Also with such low high side pressure I’m wondering if the compressor is weak. I will put gauges back in today to see if pressures are the same and tonight will start looking for the leak since I put dye in yesterday.

Thank you for the responses regarding pressures and possible leak points. I checked my piping path and it appears it stays on the opposite side of the engine from the turbo, but I know one line has to get over to the condenser in the radiator stack on the left side so will trace out that line today.

 


Dash A/C pretending it is a heater.
CjnCook

Assuming you are using R134a, check to see if it matches the ambient temperature and pressures on the attached chart. At first glance, your system pressure seems low.

R134a_pressure_ambient_temp.png


Dash A/C pretending it is a heater.
Rikadoo

So in my pre-retired life I worked in a Ford dealership, I would get F-550s, 650s, and 750s in which had cummins engines all of them had "for the most part" the same issue low on charge, some had no charge. Over the years I saw a theme low on charge with no signs of leaks ANYWHERE, meant though there was no signs of oil leaks, AND unable to find ANY freon leaks was determined to be from the compressor shaft seal, that while rotating from operation the seal would not be able to deal with the fluctuations of the pressures and therefor would become incontenent. Which if anyone has ever tried to locate a freon leak KNOWS there can be no movement of air or else you will not be able to get any accurate readings.

The other was if I discovered there was NO freon pressure in the system the first thing I would do is to drill a small hole in the evaporator case, then I would insert my borescope probe thru the hole and 9.8 times out of 10 would find that there was a leak, some small some not so small.

So my work with many of the automotive ac systems have proved several ideas of thought to me, 1st is all systems leak, and since the change from r-12 to r-134 I found that r-134 has smaller molecules as the Mfg. has in fact stated. That there trying to reduce that seepage is evident in the vehicle Mfg's had changed to different compounds for hoses, o rings and seals, there is no denying there is a seep/leak issue, it has been widely discussed thru trade rags for years.

So my street smarts that I have been able to develop over the years is this, Not if but When the system leaks now there is a "low state of charge" that when this happens the clutch now is cycling on / off more than usual, for years the customer always states "it quit cooling all of a sudden" and up intel then it had always blown cold! So a fact not many people know is that the oil within the system flows with the freon when In operation, and also when the freon level goes lower so does the flow of oil... Now when the freon level gets to a point that the compressor clutch is machine gunning that there is little if any oil getting back to the compressor, signs of this can be seen of seized compressors or as I discovered the shaft seals that expect to be wet have not had enough lube to keep them from glazing or worse.

This was why for my regular customers I would always every season sell a ac service, this was where I would connect the ac machine, do a performance check (monitor pressures while checking the duct temps) , then I would reclaim the freon, pull the system into a vacuum, add dye, then recharge to spec, then perform yet another quick performance check. Now FOR MY CUSTOMERS the package service offered up to 1/2 lb of additional freon to maintain spec charge, I WILL STATE that everyone one of those systems was always low 1/4 lb or more. 

Call it what you want, upselling, preventive maintenance, hype or whatever, what I can tell you is the systems that always had catastrophic failures NEVER had any annual services performed! Dealerships keep records on all work performed, for YEARS...

Now to return to when I discovered the Evaporator had failed, not only would I replace the Evaporator, I always replaced the compressor along with the accumulator. 

NOBODY likes to spend $$$ I get it, however if you have a savy mechanic he will offer that AC PM service, listen how they perform it, some may NOT reclaim then refill to spec, some just add a 1/2 lb with out checking, HOWEVER if they say they DID NOT ADD ANY FREON, then all they did was to look for leaks, turn the system on and felt it get cold, I have ALWAYS believed in the reclaim and refill to spec. That some say you can't make time doing it that way, On any given job IF I had the machine close to me (2 machines shared between 25 techs) I could make 1 to 2 tenths per job, which always gave me enough traffic of a/c work to be able to get other repairs.


Bypassing coach safety devices
Paul A.

We full timed 10 years. I made some CYA slide locks, just in case of a failure .

With the slide closed, measure from the inside wall of the coach to the inside of the flange, where the seal is, of the slide.

Get some 2 x 6 lumber, and cut 2 pieces to that length. 

Lay on top of the slide when closed.  We hung a yellow tennis ball on one that we could see, to remind us to remove when necessary.


Starlink users
Joelsheriff

Your beta is for home being shipped? I'm on list for RV. Have you heard anything about the mobile set. 


Starlink users
JDCrow
20 minutes ago, Joelsheriff said:

Your beta is for home being shipped? I'm on list for RV. Have you heard anything about the mobile set. 

Where’s the list for RV?


Starlink users
BennieH

I’m on the for home list. Haven’t heard anything about an RV beta list.


Bedroom Slide Not working Properly
Corkman
17 hours ago, Corkman said:

I went to slide my bedroom slide in today, when I was heading out on a 4 week trip, and after about 12 inches I hear this clicking grinding noise and the slide stopped moving. After an hour or two of troubleshooting and brainstorming we discovered that the bar on top of the motor that moves the slide in had worn and the bar's gears would not stay in contact with the motor's rotating gear. It would slip out (the bar connected to the slide's gear would slip out of the motor's rotating gear. I was able to use a hammer to force the bar down in to contact enough with the motor's rotating gear to move the bedroom slide. It only needed to move about 3-4 inches and then it caught the rotating gear enough and worked properly again. I think the slide's movement is up/down a little as it moves in and out. This down movement with my hammer moved the bar connected to the slide enough down so that it contacted the motor's rotating gear enough to move the slide after about a 3-4 inch past the slip.

Picture one is the bar I am talking about. If you look at the silver color on the left side you can see the wear, on the metal (no longer black paint), allowing the bar to miss the motor's rotating gear enough to slip out of full contact.

The second video is the "slip" in action,

The third video is the work-a-round I used with my hammer. 

I hope this work-a-round idea helps other.

Does anyone know where I can order a new top bar that is not worn down like this one?

Show Wear.JPG

 

Motor Stop video.MOV 12.75 MB · 8 downloads Jury Rig.MOV 7.33 MB · 8 downloads

I'm not sure if anyone saw this post, but I am looking for anyone that might know where I can get this replacement part. The lippert/powergear part number is 520971.


Dash A/C pretending it is a heater.
trailmug
2 hours ago, Testdepth said:

So a little more info I’ve discovered. This coach has been sitting pretty much unused for the last 4-5 years so it’s quite possible compressor seals are dried out. After putting in is out 16oz of Freon my compressor did kick on and I had decent, ~ 20 psi lp side pressure my high side pressure was only around 100. I put an additional 12oz can with the stop leak in to see if I could get my high side pressure up thinking I’m just extremely low on Freon for so much piping. At this point I have 42 degree air from the center vent in front. Lp side at about 10 psi and Hp side still 100 psi. Now I take a drive and watch temp at vent. 60 degree outside temperature. My vent temp goes down to 31 deg. stays there for awhile the slowly climbs to 47deg. then cycles back down to low 30s. Continues this for the trip through the mountains where outside temp drops to about 50.

Should there be that much range in the temperature and is this even a valid test with such low outside temperatures?

Also with such low high side pressure I’m wondering if the compressor is weak. I will put gauges back in today to see if pressures are the same and tonight will start looking for the leak since I put dye in yesterday.

Thank you for the responses regarding pressures and possible leak points. I checked my piping path and it appears it stays on the opposite side of the engine from the turbo, but I know one line has to get over to the condenser in the radiator stack on the left side so will trace out that line today.

 

Yeah the thermostatic cycling is normal in a TXV system with low load. Since there's no cycling switch, there's a frost sensor on the evap that cuts out to prevent icing.


Captain seats
eddie4ne

 

Here is the drivers seat bottom sewn back together with skirt. Even though the sewing is labor intensive wrestling these onto the seat frame is a paaain... 

When I do tight fitting pieces which I need to stretch down over a wider area, I use a piece of plastic or garbage bag. After fitted into place, I rip or slide it out.

 

sharon f 2002 Monaco Windsor 

 


Modernizing my 2008 Safari Cheetah
McHughes

Thanks Scotty,  Ordered the SIM today.


Dash A/C pretending it is a heater.
Testdepth

Jeffrey and Rik, thanks for your inputs. After looking at the ambient temp vs pressure chart and extrapolating down a bit, it appears to me that I’m still a bit low but not by a lot! From here I’m going to pursue leak detecting and just use it till our ambient temps get a little higher and then compare to the charts to see how it looks then.

BTW, pressures this am, 50degree ambient temperature, were about the same; 10-15 low side 100 high side. We’re supposed to get to 70 in the next day or two so I’ll do a check then to see if I get any increase in pressures.

thanks again.

Thanks Rob. I think Troubleshooting with outside temps so low makes it a bit more difficult. When our temps get a little hotter I should be able to get a better idea of how the system is working, and hopefully a more narrow temp swing.

mike


Ceramic Coatings
David Pratt

The finished product. I took the pictures with the coach still in the Barn. I thought it was sort of neat the way everything is reflecting off the coach. The coach will be a Rolling Mirror going done the road. Picture 6 is me standing at the rear of the coach against the back roll up door. you can see me taking the picture,

When I pull the coach out of the barn I will take some full shots.

thumbnail_IMG_20210427_182330108.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_20210427_182336122.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_20210427_182346167.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_20210427_182352057.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_20210427_182400776.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_20210427_182449693.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_20210427_182516841_HDR.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_20210427_182527018.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_20210427_182533221.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_20210427_193707196.jpg

thumbnail_IMG_20210427_193709795.jpg


Bedroom Slide Not working Properly
gibsons19

can you tell me where the fuse for the bedroom rear slide is located? TIA


Crown AGM Batteries
Steven P

Barry,

This is what I found so I used AGM2 and would think you MAY be the same?Screenshot_20210428-162102_Drive.thumb.jpg.32d24ac3654a4944f486d326d470f18a.jpg


Dash A/C
Steve Hepfer

Can anyone explain how to replace the drain line for the front dash ac? I think mine may be plugged causing a leak inside on the floor at the bottom of the return grille. Thx


Crown AGM Batteries
Barry W

Exactly what I decided after going back and reading this same page.

 

Thanks


Dash A/C
DavidL

You can use compressed air to blow the blockage in


Dash A/C
Steve Hepfer

If that doesn't work and I have to replace the hose not sure how to remove the apparent obstruction in front of it. Looks like it could be a vacuum of some type

20210428_181752.jpg


Broken DS lower fixed window need to replace
Gary M
On 4/19/2021 at 2:14 PM, Steve Lange said:

2009 Monarch 33SDD. Driver side lower Dual Pain window broken. The inside pain is OK but the outside is in place but shattered. Looking for a  shop to replace the window in the Cincinnati , Ohio area.

LittleHome#2009

Good luck! Hope u get one. Ive been looking in every state Im traveling for a year now. Same issue except a 12”x12” slide window.


Bedroom Slide Not working Properly
Corkman

Sorry but I don't know where the fuse it


Broken DS lower fixed window need to replace
Tom Cherry

I had the same issue. There are TWO ways....actually THREE...

First, call Northwest RV and HOPE they have one in their "we bought all the left over Monaco Parts"

Next, you can have it replaced with Laminated Safety Glass. There are several companies that do that. The window has to be removed and carefully measured and then the glass if cut to fit and reinstalled. The tinting might be different...but it works.

The final is to have a replacement made from the original company. Atwood was the supplier, They have ALL the prints on the windows. Mine was gone on the outside when we were in WA in the summer of 2018. I got hold of the factory and then ordered a replacement. It took about 4 weeks to make. The factory has a custorm shop in Elkhart and they stripped down the window and put in the new glass.

The glass is Tempered....that is why it Shattered. FORTUNATELY, mine had CRAZED, but not disassembled or fell out. I used several thicknesses of heavy (Gorilla) clear tape and laminated the outer glass. I reinforced it with Duct Tape. I drove almost 3,000 miles from WA to IN. Along the way, I had to put on two aluminum staves or gars as the glass was vibrating. It looked UGLY, but it sure beat trying to custom fit and cut a piece of 1/4" plywood. I was having some work done at a shop in ELkhart. They pulled the window for me. I took it over to the Atwood center and then brought it back and they reinstalled it.

There are SOIME glass shops that can custom cut glass for the window. Then they have to send it out for tempering.  You can NOT cut or do anything when the glass has been tempered. 

I did a write up on this...  It is in the posts....

DUNCAN SYSTEMS INC #071
29391 OLD US HWY 33
Elkhart, IN 46516-1427
USA
Fax (574) 294-7289
Phone (800) 551-9149

Duncan is part of Lippert. They bought the OLD Atwood Window Company. They also have all the intellectual property....as in the PRINTS and the years and the models. They can look up the model and they will send you a print. BEAR IN MIND....this is for the outer perimeter of the window. I did a BUNCH of crosschecking measurements and then verified that it was the correct one.

I dealt with a Jeanne K....they may have changed a lot....but start researching Duncan

https://www.rvglass.com/quote?make=MONACO RV LLC&model=DIPLOMAT

They appear to be operating under RVGLASS.com..  I put in your info....and this is the form to send in. You can also call...

Good Luck...


Dash A/C
Chuck B

try running a coat hanger up the drain.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Slide solenoid
Dennis H

Will do, David.  I'm sending mine back to them to see if it can be rebuilt. They'll rebuild it for about, I think $100....Dennis

On 4/27/2021 at 8:18 AM, Hypoxia said:

The access on my 2007 Signature is limited and I found it to be much easier with the solenoid tool HWH sells.  I made a tool for the first one I replaced.  Get the old one rebuilt for a spare, HWH is reasonable on rebuilds.

HWH Solenoid Tools

Jim, which tool did you use or are all three necessary to switch it out? Thanks...Dennis


No headlights and relay solution
StephenW

I wanted to update the headlight problem I was having.  Thanks to Moe M and Rick P for their guidance on separating the headlights with a relay.  I now have working headlights!  It is very reassuring to have this kind of information and exchange of ideas to get us through these repairs.  I would have gotten to the headlight situation sooner, but my wife let me know the Samsung fridge would be done first.  Also many thanks to all those who shared their fridge change-outs and details on the how to's.  Thanks all!


vinyl graphics protectant
Moonwink

My previous MH which I had for 16 years had vinyl graphics on it and they still looked great when I sold it without a sign of cracking or crazing.  Compare that with a friend living in Las Vegas who had the same MH but used a different product (and swore by it) than I did.  Both of out units sat outside year around.  I know it gets a lot hotter in LV than StL but doesn't really explain the difference in the way our MHs looked.

He used 303 Protectorant.  I've always used Protect-All.  It kept the gelcoat looking nice as well as the graphics.  The rubber trim around the windows still looked great.  I used it to keep the windows clean because it made removing bugs a lot easier.  

My recommendation to preserve your graphics would be to use  on them and everything else.

71R8civiIVL._AC_SL300_.jpg

 


No headlights and relay solution
Mocephus
56 minutes ago, StephenW said:

I wanted to update the headlight problem I was having.  Thanks to Moe M and Rick P for their guidance on separating the headlights with a relay.  I now have working headlights!  It is very reassuring to have this kind of information and exchange of ideas to get us through these repairs.  I would have gotten to the headlight situation sooner, but my wife let me know the Samsung fridge would be done first.  Also many thanks to all those who shared their fridge change-outs and details on the how to's.  Thanks all!

Great! I'm glad it all worked out for you!


Ceramic Coatings
Scotty Hutto

That’s simply gorgeous!


Ceramic Coatings
StephenW

WOW! Beautiful Coach!


Slide solenoid
Hypoxia

I use this one.  I'm a small guy and can scoot into small spaces easily.  I'm also not a stranger to a wrench, however this tool makes life much easier replacing solenoids on my coach.  As Dave said, you don't always need the tool, it depends on the space available on each coach.  This solenoid is a HWH rebuild and is a spare.  Be sure to release hydraulic pressure before removal.

Solenoid Tool 1.JPG

Solenoid Tool.JPG


Source Engineering Ride Enhancement Kit
ncsteve

Figured I would wrap this up. kit is installed, ride height is set, bags seated correctly, rear air leaks are gone ( must of been bag or bags) found front air leak is the drain valve on front of coach, which I temporarily capped off until I can get a new one.  Gonna take it for a ride on Saturday in to town to get oil changed, looking forward to see how it rides now. 
special notes

removing tires makes the job way easier ( need 1” impact and 33mm socket)

rear shocks have limit straps which makes install easy. Install and cut.

front shocks don’t and it was all I could do to compress shocks to get installed

not sure why they don’t include a screw in T fitting for tank this would eliminate 2 chances for a leak and one less fitting. ( I had one and used it)

had to buy 4’of 1/4” airline not supplied in kit.

on mine, leave airline goin in to ride height valve, exit valve with new line and go to tank T, dump line out other side of T

If air bag is extended when you get it, compress not worrying about rubber bag position and use large tie wraps to keep it that way until installed. Once installed and not tightened, cut them and remove. See below..

E4A5D218-A06B-4BBD-B6A7-5C745BB414E0.thumb.jpeg.9814adbeb35e04f3ec7fee0bdf6a4630.jpeg
AE895AF5-1434-4248-B3C6-8BF2D65DCD3F.thumb.jpeg.9f21ce1efab65198a7bcd041a0ae5912.jpeg

once installed and hoses plumbed, LET THE JACK DOWN BEFORE STARTING COACH AND ADDING AIR. This was a DUH moment for me.

if rubber part of bags are not in position correctly as above, after air is full,

loosen ride height valve and use it to add air until bags correct themselves. They will with a loud pop or two. The reattach the arm and check ride height. 
 

set back, drink a beer and admire your work with a “yea, I did that grin on your face”

special shout out to Source Engineering. Jim and Scott were very helpful with replies to question and customer service is top notch!!


Broken DS lower fixed window need to replace
Hypoxia

Challenger Door bought part of Duncan Systems after the Atwood sale.  Any good glass place can order a piece of tempered glass, Auto Glass Boss ordered a L shaped driver side window for me.  It was a dual pane outer piece which they installed.  It did take some time to arrive.


2022 BILL D's Monacoers Gathering
Skipperira

David,

Sharon and I will be looking for word on the Gathering.  Please advise.

Thank you,

Ira Hertz


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