Residential fridge with furnace below

[Batmobile]

On 5/30/2021 at 2:32 PM, nyrngrz said:

I had this Fisher & Paykel residential installed a few years back without any modification. It was able to be brought in and the Norcold removed out the side door.

https://www.fisherpaykel.com/us/cooling/refrigeration/contemporary-refrigeration/freestanding-french-door-refrigerator-freezer-32in-17-cu-ft-rf170adw5-n-25097.html

We are so close to ordering this fridge...it's pricey but it will fit with virtually no mods.

On 5/31/2021 at 9:49 AM, vanwill52 said:

If your furnace is a Suburban, that is a zero underclearance model.  That is, the furnace is rated to sit directly onto combustible material.  So, if it is sitting on 2x4's, you can remove them and place the furnace directly on the wooden floor.  You must bore another hole in the side of the coach to reposition the inlet/exhaust lower.  I covered the extra hole with a polished aluminum plate.  Specs for the furnace call for just 1" clearance above.  I welded a frame for the fridge to sit on.

On my 2000 Dynasty, these modifications allowed me to install an RF18 with only about 1/4" clearance to spare in height.

Thanks, for the furnace info! Ours is actually sitting on carpet (which makes no sense to me)! 

[Batmobile]

On 5/30/2021 at 2:32 PM, Scotty Hutto said:

Elaine & Clarence,

Download this pdf from our “downloads” section. It’s a great write-up from one of our members @Bob Nodine on lowering the floor above the furnace and installing a residential fridge. 
 

I used this as my guide to install a Samsung RF18 fridge in my 2006 Diplomat.  Also, @Steven P installed a GE counter depth fridge in his Diplomat that has ice and water in the door, and I think he used this as a guide also.  
 

It can be done!  I’m hoping someone with a 2001 Dip will chime in with their experience. 

I downloaded, but just see pictures, no write up. Is that available somewhere?

[Dr4Film]

For anyone wishing to install a residential in their coach but find that there is not enough room for the Samsung RF18 or any other common brand of counter-depth fridge I have always recommended purchasing a Fisher-Paykal counter-depth fridge which usually requires little to no modifications to the opening.

Pricey, yes, but FP is a well built fridge with excellent reviews, etc. The extra cost offsets the cost it would if you had to have someone do the modifications to make some other brand fit the opening.

Edited June 2, 2021 by Dr4Film

[Scotty Hutto]

Ok, try this again, we updated the download to the new version that includes the text and pictures:

 

[Batmobile]

7 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:

Ok, try this again, we updated the download to the new version that includes the text and pictures:

 

Downloaded but was "forbidden"

Things are really tight...even if we go Fisher-Pakel we need more height. 

Just now, Batmobile said:

Downloaded but was "forbidden"

Things are really tight...even if we go Fisher-Pakel we need more height. 

I'm even thinking of looking for a newer lower profile furnace,...if there is such a thing.

12 minutes ago, Batmobile said:

Downloaded but was "forbidden"

Things are really tight...even if we go Fisher-Pakel we need more height. 

I'm even thinking of looking for a newer lower profile furnace,...if there is such a thing.

Okay, got it and see that Bob didn't need to lower his furnace at all. We need to. It would mean making modifications to the exterior access door. 

[Batmobile]

21 hours ago, Batmobile said:

We are so close to ordering this fridge...it's pricey but it will fit with virtually no mods.

Thanks, for the furnace info! Ours is actually sitting on carpet (which makes no sense to me)! 

Okay so it's sitting on a wood platform surrounded by carpet we need to lower it just an inch or so to fit the Fisher-Pakel but will need to modify the outside access door. Don't know how we'll manage this yet as there isn't much ro to lower on the outside. 😔

Edited June 3, 2021 by Batmobile
More info

[JDCrow]

46 minutes ago, Batmobile said:

Downloaded but was "forbidden"

Things are really tight...even if we go Fisher-Pakel we need more height. 

I'm even thinking of looking for a newer lower profile furnace,...if there is such a thing.

Okay, got it and see that Bob didn't need to lower his furnace at all. We need to. It would mean making modifications to the exterior access door. 

Been thinking Diesel heater down the road 

[Batmobile]

11 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

Been thinking Diesel heater down the road 

Just had a quick look online...not replacing the furnace. $$$

On 5/31/2021 at 9:49 AM, vanwill52 said:

If your furnace is a Suburban, that is a zero underclearance model.  That is, the furnace is rated to sit directly onto combustible material.  So, if it is sitting on 2x4's, you can remove them and place the furnace directly on the wooden floor.  You must bore another hole in the side of the coach to reposition the inlet/exhaust lower.  I covered the extra hole with a polished aluminum plate.  Specs for the furnace call for just 1" clearance above.  I welded a frame for the fridge to sit on.

On my 2000 Dynasty, these modifications allowed me to install an RF18 with only about 1/4" clearance to spare in height.

Do you have any pics?

[vanwill52]

I will see what I have saved as pix.

1 hour ago, Batmobile said:

Okay so it's sitting on a wood platform surrounded by carpet we need to lower it just an inch or so to fit the Fisher-Pakel but will need to modify the outside access door. Don't know how we'll manage this yet as there isn't much ro to lower on the outside. 😔

I cannot speak to the conversion if you have a Dometic furnace below.  The Suburban is the only one I have personal experience with.  Both my 93 Dynasty and my present 2000 Dynasty had a Surburban furnace.

[Batmobile]

The furnace is an Atwood.

The exterior access door is really close to the lower half (basement?) of the coach and not much room to move the vent on that door. Actually very little room with the hinges. 

Inside pics with the furnace and the platform it was sitting on removed. 

It all needs cleaning up but I honestly don't know what to do next.

[JDCrow]

2 hours ago, Batmobile said:

Just had a quick look online...not replacing the furnace. $$$

Do you have any pics?

All about the space. To get rid of the propane tank would free up a huge bay for me 

[Batmobile]

29 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

All about the space. To get rid of the propane tank would free up a huge bay for me 

Makes sense if you don't have a gas range.

[JDCrow]

14 minutes ago, Batmobile said:

Makes sense if you don't have a gas range.

I do, but the portable hot plates work awesome 

[Batmobile]

1 hour ago, vanwill52 said:

I will see what I have saved as pix.

I cannot speak to the conversion if you have a Dometic furnace below.  The Suburban is the only one I have personal experience with.  Both my 93 Dynasty and my present 2000 Dynasty had a Surburban furnace.

Would love to see pictures.  Our Atwood furnace is only 7". 

Does anyone know why they put carpet around the furnace? Any reason the shelf for the fridge needs to be wood? Hubby is thinking about aluminum. 

The Fisher-Pakel is going to be a tight fit and I think it can work but we're not ordering until we know for sure. I hope it's available!

I'll post more pictures as we go.

Edited June 3, 2021 by Batmobile
Grammar

[Ivylog]

Third picture is of the refrigerator you need to seriously considering using as it’s only an inch too high,  actually only  a 3/4 inch. Fortunately Executive rotated some of my pictures which saved them.

I previously posted: DW wanted the large drawer saved under our NoCold in our 04 Dynasty. Hoped the 65” tall 21 Whirlpool would fit but had to lower the floor 1”.  Link to my DIY install:

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28435086/print/true.cfm

First picture is with the floor cut out and supports around the perimeter an inch lower. Second picture is with the foam insulation installed,  sealing off the area from the drawer below.

 The hardest part was taking an inch off of the front cross piece. Did most of it with a 7 inch Skill saw BUT, would not recommend doing it that way as it’s easy for the Skill saw to get away from you if you’re not careful.

Edited June 3, 2021 by Ivylog

[Dr4Film]

9 hours ago, JDCrow said:

Been thinking Diesel heater down the road 

Stay away from Aqua-Hot and Hydro Hot.

I highly recommend an Espar Diesel Heating System for RV's. A friend of mine in Washington State has installed two, one in his 03 Diplomat (now gone) and one in his current 02 HR Sceptre.

[Ivylog]

I’ll help take this refrigerator discussion further off track... I love my AquaHot.😎

[jacwjames]

Been following this thread, not sure if it is the same topic/poster as on IRV2 but I posted a link to my Samsung install.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/samsung-install-finally-done-461001.html

I decided to do something different and not have a shelf at all, I used heavy conduit struts, they make HEAVY 90 degree angle and bolts to tie pieces together

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Superstrut-1-5-8-in-x-1-5-8-in-Gold-Galvanized-Half-Slot-Channel-Strut/1000182121

I made two separate stands approximately the height I thought would work, secured them to the floor on either side of the furnace using the distance of the wheels on the refrigerator.  I had made a dolly to help remove the Norcold refrigerator and made this the height to test fit the Samsung I bought.  I ended up having to remove the two strut built supports and cutting them down an extra ~1/2" to be able to slide the fridge in, leaving me with ~1/4" to spare.  That was the benefit of making 2 separate legs, easy to modify.

After I made sure the fridge would fit I was able to secure them from moving by blocking the back and in the front I attached extra pieces of wood salvaged from the frame around the fridge to the same width of the legs and screwing to them.  I reinforced this with extra wood on the back side not visible from the front.  In the end I cold stand on the legs and they did not move at all.  I added blocking to the back and sides to prevent the fridge from moving and to help guide it into place. 

Note that the rear wheels and front wheels are not aligned, the front is slightly wider so I aligned my legs to the rear which made it easier to slide the fridge in.  On the front the wheels barely hit the legs but the weight is actually supported with on the heavy brackets attached to the leveling support bracket. 

I then attached angle piece to the sides of the fridge used the heavy selfadhesive tape and screwing into the side frame of the fridge, painted black you can hardly see.  I was able to used heavy brackets modified and attached them to the lever brackets on bottom of the fridge and then screwing into the added blocking at the bottom. 

The bottom of the fridge sits almost on top of the furnace.  The front that originally had a lourvered vent for the furnace was modified using the same stile/rail from but I just attached wire mesh screen to allow for better air flow. 

Not sure why the one picture is upside down but it shows how close the fridge it so the furnace. 

 

Th

[JDCrow]

2 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Stay away from Aqua-Hot and Hydro Hot.

I highly recommend an Espar Diesel Heating System for RV's. A friend of mine in Washington State has installed two, one in his 03 Diplomat (now gone) and one in his current 02 HR Sceptre.

I’ll look into them. Was leaning towards Webatso 

[Dr4Film]

3 hours ago, JDCrow said:

I’ll look into them. Was leaning towards Webasto 

Espar is smaller with higher BTU's, easier to maintain and far less expensive than the Webasto.

Aqua-Hot uses the Webasto and I have one. The original Aqua-Hot failed at just over 4 years of service. Had to have a rebuilt Aqua-Hot installed (very expensive) which has lasted 15 years now but not without expensive problems and repairs. The control box alone is a $900 item and you get pretty tired shelling out that kind over and over again. Can't tell you how many control boxes I have had to buy over the 17 years of owning the coach. Luckily I just bought 2 from a vendor in Europe for less than one here in the states and with free shipping. They started out with silver control boxes, then switched to Solid State black boxes and now they have an entirely different type of control box that I have never seen before on the Aqua-Hot web site. Have no idea how good it is.

Edited June 3, 2021 by Dr4Film

[JDCrow]

38 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Espar is smaller with higher BTU's, easier to maintain and far less expensive than the Webasto.

Aqua-Hot uses the Webasto and I have one. The original Aqua-Hot failed at just over 4 years of service. Had to have a rebuilt Aqua-Hot installed (very expensive) which has lasted 15 years now but not without expensive problems and repairs. The control box alone is a $900 item and you get pretty tired shelling out that kind over and over again. Can't tell you how many control boxes I have had to buy over the 17 years of owning the coach. Luckily I just bought 2 from a vendor in Europe for less than one here in the states and with free shipping. They started out with silver control boxes, then switched to Solid State black boxes and now they have an entirely different type of control box that I have never seen before on the Aqua-Hot web site. Have no idea how good it is.

Awesome thanks for the insight 

[Batmobile]

Yes, that was me in the other forum too. Posted there before I discovered this group dedicated to Monaco owners. 

Thanks for sharing your installs. I've studied several posts and don't know why we don't have as much room but we'll be back in the coach this evening with our thinking caps on...and I'll be checking to make sure my DH's tape measure isn't defective! 🤣

Total floor to ceiling is 77 3/4", furnace is 7" so we should have enough space for the 67 1/2" Fisher-Pakel. The furnace is going to be the tricky part as we have to have it as high as possible due to the exhaust. 

Edited June 3, 2021 by Batmobile
Wrong post quoted

[Scotty Hutto]

please take pictures and document as much as possible!

[Batmobile]

Update!

 

Today's the day! Our new Fisher-Pakel will be arriving soon. DH is still working on final preparations for putting it in.

The furnace was lowered about 1/2". We were able to do this just by flipping the frame that fits into the outside opening of the coach. There's a bit of a gap now, but it'll be fine. Future plans to redo the decals will solve the misalignment. 

Inside, we were able to lower the fridge shelf/floor by 3". DH is using some steel we had on hand to make a support for a piece of aluminum he bought for the fridge to sit on. (Not finished yet). The gas line for the furnace has been shortened and repositioned (it was way longer than it needed to be. All has been reconnected and tested. 👍🏻

The air intake needs to be lowered, so DH is out getting a piece of oak veneer to cover the bottom of the wall. (He was going to use the checkerboard but I nixed that idea! 😊)

The electrical outlets have been repositioned. And we'll cut a foam insulation piece to block the vent to the outside. 

While cleaning I noticed a burnt spot and wonder if we got lucky!

We now have a space of 33" by 68" for our new fridge that is 31-3/32 x 67 1/2"!

Oh, my DH removed the old fire hazard (doors removed) through the door by himself without having to remove all the coils from the back! 🤞🏻hope the new fridge goes in as easily!

I'll update again with pictures of the new fridge going in.