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House Disconnect Switch


tmw188

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I wondered about that because of your second photo otherwise you wouldn’t have taken that photo, and the way it’s called out on the diagram it did say disconnect. I was looking for what looked like a solenoid the other really didn’t look like one that I would recognize. This is it here?

671F336E-0FFD-43C2-9852-90CCB65A1A62.jpeg

Edited by tmw188
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On 6/8/2021 at 4:49 PM, Dr4Film said:

Nope, it is the solenoid directly below that one and it's labeled Battery Cut-Off Relay.

Frankly I would strongly suggest that you bypass the damn thing as they are a high failure item. SO if you replace it chances are that one will fail also some day. Many people including myself have bypassed the relay and we no longer have to worry about losing 12 VDC power to many of the house devices at the worst possible inconvenient time.

You sure did, sorry I had forgotten or got distracted with other posts I guess. 👍 Looking closer at that photo above it appears that there is a purple wire taped off to the side, that might be for the disconnect switch?

Edited by tmw188
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49 minutes ago, tmw188 said:

I wondered about that because of your second photo otherwise you wouldn’t have taken that photo, and the way it’s called out on the diagram it did say disconnect. I was looking for what looked like a solenoid the other really didn’t look like one that I would recognize. This is it here?

671F336E-0FFD-43C2-9852-90CCB65A1A62.jpeg

Your 120 AMP fuse 

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Well Sheet! This is it I guess what the heck I’ll get over there this morning. Didn’t really recognize it. Mine does not look the same I don’t believe. This is Dr4film photo. 

5404E34C-ED5F-478D-9F06-C62A0F0E6141.png

Edited by tmw188
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YES! As you can see I have bypassed it already and it has been that ways for 10 years or more. I can't recall when I did it but I wasn't going to throw more money at a POS solenoid relay that will fail again.

1 hour ago, tmw188 said:

I wondered about that because of your second photo otherwise you wouldn’t have taken that photo, and the way it’s called out on the diagram it did say disconnect. I was looking for what looked like a solenoid the other really didn’t look like one that I would recognize. This is it here?

671F336E-0FFD-43C2-9852-90CCB65A1A62.jpeg

Todd, that is your Domestic Circuit Breaker.

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4 hours ago, tmw188 said:

Ok so this is what mine looks like. A little different?

image.jpg

 

Todd, someone has already removed the Battery Cut-Off Solenoid and installed a single post connection mounted in the same location to bypass the useless piece of junk. That single post has the two wires connected to it. End of problem.

That's why your entry switch does not do anything as it has been disconnected.

By the way, yes the purple wire I have taped off is the control wire for the failed solenoid relay. All it basically did was to complete a ground circuit to the solenoid.

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9 minutes ago, tmw188 said:

Thanks everyone I’ll see what I end up doing about that. It’s a big coach with a lot of 12V accessories, it’s easy to leave something on. It’s not on my short list yet. 

I disconnected mine 15 years ago.

Never used it before that. Even

You have no more DC than most. 

 

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9 hours ago, John Haggard said:

I disconnected mine 15 years ago.

Never used it before that. Even

You have no more DC than most. 

 

Compared to my other mh I have more. Not a big deal I just have to train someone else more. Those must of been a big problem for everyone that’s for sure.

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Todd, It was for me when the damn thing failed during the night sometime and it was raining cats&dogs outside. Had to get up and use the toilet. No lights, no refrigerator, no toilet, no Aqua-Hot heater, nothing, nada, zippo! It was bypassed the next day and haven't missed it for one nano-second.

If you are only out for a spell, leaving a light on is no big deal especially if they are LED's. If they are not, change them out. If you want to turn the entire house off use the Domestic aka House Battery Disconnect switch in the RRB.

Edited by Dr4Film
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While I was getting my garage built I had the coach parked off to the side not accessible to electric, I was having to rely on the 325 watt solar to keep the batteries charged.  I found that I could turn the disconnect off and I could maintain the batteries without using the house battery disconnect which shuts off power to the whole house.   Prior to this I seldom used the house disconnect.

I've been working on my coach quite a bit lately and was concerned about my battery mainainer so I've been testing it and the house & chassis batteries.

Yesterday, after reading all these posts on the "Salesman" switch I inspected it and when I touched it it was hot, could not hold my hand on it.  No idea of how many watts of power it took to create that much heat in the solenoid but imagine it is quite a bit.  I'm going to do some amp readings just to get an idea but I am leaning toward just bypassing the solenoid to save energy drain unless there is a more efficient option of keeping one in place. 

 

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Jim, the reason for the heat is the solenoid is a continuous duty one so it's always on. That's why it fails. The only way to get around that problem is to install a latching solenoid. However, you would have to run an additional wire from a properly installed momentary switch as the latching solenoid requires a positive & negative wire to activate the solenoid and again to deactivate the solenoid.

The latching solenoid only needs power to latch the contacts and unlatch the contacts. It's not pulling power all the time like what's in there now.

Edited by Dr4Film
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Oh yeah I’m already changing out all the lights to LED’s I did that on the other mh and installed a 100w panel to maintain the batteries which does a great job, next came the refrigerator. So kinda doing the same thing here except for the frig, other than they didn’t complete the install properly. Learning all the new systems. 

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1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

Jim, the reason for the heat is the solenoid is a continuous duty one so it's always on. That's why it fails. The only way to get around that problem is to install a latching solenoid. However, you would have to run an additional wire from a properly installed momentary switch as the latching solenoid requires a positive & negative wire to activate the solenoid and again to deactivate the solenoid.

The latching solenoid only needs power to latch the contacts and unlatch the contacts. It's not pulling power all the time with what's in there now.

Well I won't be doing that then, not worth the effort. 

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