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Upgrading to SeeLevel II


Woody O
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Hypoia, I know what the problems are  against the ones that came on the coach, what problems do you have with the SeaLevel? Same problems even with the sensors on the outside?

Woody O

06 Dynasty

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Using Executive45's url (SeeLevel to Aladdin harness) I see a wire harness to connect SeeLevel sensors to the Alladin System, but I am having trouble locating where to buy just the sensors and installation instructions for them. 

$130 seems like a lot of money for some wires and connectors, but still may be worth it rather than just building it.  

Dave Jones

Edited by daveyjo
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22 hours ago, Hypoxia said:

Correction, I had the SeeLevel I on the last coach.  I had some accuracy issues with SeeLevel I and replaced one of the outside sensors which didn't really fix the problem.  The SeeLevel II may have corrected those types of problems,

The SeeLevel sensors use circuit traces on a circuit board that is placed up against the outside surface of the tank. The fluid in the tank will change the capacitance and inductance between the traces. You need to make sure that external objects like cable harnesses are not up against the circuit boards.

 

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My OEM tank sensors are on the outside of each tank PLUS when I installed the SeeLevel Tank System those are also on the outside of each tank. I have had no problems with either system. The reason I installed the SeeLevel is I wanted a tank level display in my outside service bay. The only display that came with the OEM one was located inside in an overhead cabinet. Tough to see that while servicing the tanks outside. Obviously people working at Monaco were not RVer's as they would have put a second display in the service bay while building the coach at the factory.

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  • 3 weeks later...

We have a very sharp member put in one of the systems a few years back.  It was probably the Original SeeLevel.  He had a lot of issues (other than the hassle of getting to the tanks to install the CDI strips).  He finally spent a LOT of time with the tech support.  In those days, the coating inside the tank messed up the CDI system.  It was not sensitive enough.  It took a long time to get the interior clean enough.  

I have tried about every trick I know to clean my tanks.  I can still put in a gallon or so of water and some "happy camper" and drive a few miles....BINGO, the TP and Crap residue will wick up the moisture and i have a "1/3" full black tank.

I have ordered another magic bullet....something called  TankTechsRx.  That gets great reviews on Amazon.  Worth a try.  i have used the Camco and Thetford and home brew (GeoMethod) and some other "cleaners".   I have left the solution in the tank for weeks and driven around and such.  To no avail.  The interior lining or residue will wick and create a circuit.  I am about HALF tempted (and it would be dangerous) to go to high voltage DC.  In my working years, I had probe alarms that would give false signals.  Sanitary systems have issues when some big thick and ugly masses of "human waste and TP" get lodged between the probes.  Most of the level control probes are around 6" in diameter and have multiple SS rods.  The center one is the common.  When that happens....you never know WHAT the level is.  SO....they go with individually transformered 600Volt probes.  Anything that "lodges" gets zapped and burned away.  THAT is the only way that I see to make the little bitty pins work....burn off that residue from the inside.  

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I ignore the display of gray and black water, I know from experience that 7 days on black and 4 days on grey. I can push the black for another couple days. This is for 2 people. Been doing this for 30 years. Don't sweat the small stuff  !!!

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