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Leaky air fittings


Steven P

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Got the part numbers for my leaky air fittings on my front air tank and swapped them out.  Fairly easy job once under the coach.  

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2 hours ago, Executive45 said:

Yep, pop em off, unscrew, reverse. I hope you didn't rely on your jacks to hold the coach up while you were under there. Blocking is imperative....Dennis

I did use the jacks to raise the coach up some, then I shut off the chassis battery switch to hopefully prevent them from retracting.  I also kept myself positioned where I could avoid being trapped if something went wrong.  I was doing the gennie work laying down w no air in the bags and no jacks down.    I do need to invest in some blocks.  What do you use?  Where do you place them?  Thanks.  

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I prefer to "drive" the coach up onto ramps (homemade from wood). That gives enough clearance to get under coach and work even if air bags are deflated.

I do not block the frame (to hold body up if air bags deflate) unless I'm working on something in that space (like replacing an air bag). I just know where the crush points are in the event the air bags deflate when I'm under coach, and I stay out of those crush zones. Once under/past the coach's side skirt/body, there is quite a bit of room (with or without airbags inflated).

 

Ramps.JPG

IMG_0737.JPG

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I routinely go under my coach with all the air dumped from the bags. Of course I am not a large person and it does take some scooting on the floor without a creeper. Can't do it using a creeper.

 

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  • 2 months later...

 

13 hours ago, ncsteve said:

Do you happen to have the part numbers and vendor for them? I need to do the same thing to mine. Thanks!

These were what mine needed.   I'm not sure if you would use the same.  I ordered from Zoro.com.  Amazon was gonna take like 2 months. 

Screenshot_20200511-215717_Chrome.jpg

Screenshot_20200511-215703_Chrome.jpg

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Steven, Thank you for the pictures and the replacement connection.  I used 4X4 posts cut to my ride height to protect myself while under the coach (HWH air level only).   Always the opportunity to work on something if the ambition and time allows /or demands such work.

On 3/2/2020 at 8:52 AM, CountryB said:

I prefer to "drive" the coach up onto ramps (homemade from wood). That gives enough clearance to get under coach and work even if air bags are deflated.

I do not block the frame (to hold body up if air bags deflate) unless I'm working on something in that space (like replacing an air bag). I just know where the crush points are in the event the air bags deflate when I'm under coach, and I stay out of those crush zones. Once under/past the coach's side skirt/body, there is quite a bit of room (with or without airbags inflated).

 

Ramps.JPG

IMG_0737.JPG

How does it appear that the tires ore not even resting on your drive up RAMPS?

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11 hours ago, Steven P said:

 

These were what mine needed.   I'm not sure if you would use the same.  I ordered from Zoro.com.  Amazon was gonna take like 2 months. 

Screenshot_20200511-215717_Chrome.jpg

Screenshot_20200511-215703_Chrome.jpg

Thank you for the info. I am going to check the sizes of the ones I need and get them ordered. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/1/2020 at 1:55 PM, Steven P said:

...I do need to invest in some blocks.  What do you use?  Where do you place them?  Thanks.  

I bought a pair of 12 ton jack stands. The most weight I have on any corner is 9,600 lbs, so the 12,000 lb per jack rating seems sufficient. I place them under the frame rails.  

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On 5/20/2020 at 11:39 PM, Scotty Hutto said:

I bought a pair of 12 ton jack stands. The most weight I have on any corner is 9,600 lbs, so the 12,000 lb per jack rating seems sufficient. I place them under the frame rails.  

Scotty, they weren't the ones from Harbor Freight? that were recalled I hope?

 

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11 minutes ago, Steven P said:

Scotty, they weren't the ones from Harbor Freight? that were recalled I hope?

 

Yes, they are from Harbor Freight; no, I checked and they are not subject to recall. 😉

The ones I purchased are on clearance right now.  I don’t usually buy from Harbor Freight, but I had to have these “that day”...

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-jack-stands-34924.html

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 5/12/2020 at 12:44 AM, RRoger said:

 

How does it appear that the tires ore not even resting on your drive up RAMPS?

In the photo I had the wheel jacked up (with a hydraulic jack, and caged the spring brake) so I could rotate the driveshaft. The Tag axle is hanging.

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  • 1 month later...

I have Monaco (?) p/n's  from the Monaco drawing of the front and rear air tanks but they are not showing up via a Google search. I have a bad leak in the switch identified as #E p/n N18526AG and smaller leaks in #N p/n VS271NTA-4. I would appreciate help in locating where to find replacements. I did not see anything in the Monaco Parts Listing.

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  • 7 months later...

Thought I'd ask here, rather than starting a new topic - Could anyone confirm whether HWH was the air system manufacturer used on all 1997 models?  I have a leaky valve that I'm hoping to identify a part number for without removing it (and forcing me to stay in one place). I see the HWH content in the downloads section, but am not sure if it applies to my year/model.  I got through to Roadmaster and they couldn't answer.  Haven't been able to get through to a live person at Monaco/Rev. Also tried Veurink's, but they didn't have any info either. 

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18 hours ago, CaliCruiser said:

Thought I'd ask here, rather than starting a new topic - Could anyone confirm whether HWH was the air system manufacturer used on all 1997 models?  I have a leaky valve that I'm hoping to identify a part number for without removing it (and forcing me to stay in one place). I see the HWH content in the downloads section, but am not sure if it applies to my year/model.  I got through to Roadmaster and they couldn't answer.  Haven't been able to get through to a live person at Monaco/Rev. Also tried Veurink's, but they didn't have any info either. 

Attaching a couple of pics of the valve.  

IMG_4595.jpg

IMG_4596.jpg

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Guest Ray Davis

Tony,  I've been working to correct some air leaks and I replaced 4 of the valves shown in your picture.

Those are PPVs  (  pressure protection valves )  they were part # KN31000.  They are not an HWH part, very generic,  probably used on most motor homes with air brakes.  Their job is to be sure enough air remains in the tanks for braking before the spring emergency brake engages, if a leak develops in some air accessory.

The problem I ran into was 2 of my valves used the ports on top of the valves and nearly all sources had valves that were not threaded.  I finally found them at

 https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-170-KN31000-Pressure-Protection/dp/B079K5FY38/ref=sr_1_13?dchild=1&keywords=pressure+protection+valve&qid=1614829269&sr=8-13 

  • Truck Parts World 5765 E. Loop 281 S.   Longview,  Texas  75602     best to call & talk to Joseph ( real nice guy )  903-757-4572

I ordered my DOT ( important ) push to connect fittings from  https://www.mcmaster.com/dot-push-to-connect-dot-tube-fittings/shape~tee/  Their on line catalog is very good, I can even understand it. haha

Here is a thread on IRV2 about air leaks https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/another-monaco-with-air-leaks-526003.html

Edited by Ray Davis
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Good idea to physically check your fittings first. I recently did a lot of work on air leaks on my 03 Signature and there are combinations of 3/8" and 1/4" diameter air lines with 1/8" NPT and 1/4" NPT (National Pipe Thread) 90's, Tees, Straight NPT to Hose connectors and Couplings.

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