Steven P Posted March 1, 2020 Share Posted March 1, 2020 Got the part numbers for my leaky air fittings on my front air tank and swapped them out. Fairly easy job once under the coach. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis H Posted March 1, 2020 Share Posted March 1, 2020 Yep, pop em off, unscrew, reverse. I hope you didn't rely on your jacks to hold the coach up while you were under there. Blocking is imperative....Dennis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven P Posted March 1, 2020 Author Share Posted March 1, 2020 2 hours ago, Executive45 said: Yep, pop em off, unscrew, reverse. I hope you didn't rely on your jacks to hold the coach up while you were under there. Blocking is imperative....Dennis I did use the jacks to raise the coach up some, then I shut off the chassis battery switch to hopefully prevent them from retracting. I also kept myself positioned where I could avoid being trapped if something went wrong. I was doing the gennie work laying down w no air in the bags and no jacks down. I do need to invest in some blocks. What do you use? Where do you place them? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryB Posted March 2, 2020 Share Posted March 2, 2020 I prefer to "drive" the coach up onto ramps (homemade from wood). That gives enough clearance to get under coach and work even if air bags are deflated. I do not block the frame (to hold body up if air bags deflate) unless I'm working on something in that space (like replacing an air bag). I just know where the crush points are in the event the air bags deflate when I'm under coach, and I stay out of those crush zones. Once under/past the coach's side skirt/body, there is quite a bit of room (with or without airbags inflated). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Nodine Posted March 2, 2020 Share Posted March 2, 2020 I routinely go under my coach with all the air dumped from the bags. Of course I am not a large person and it does take some scooting on the floor without a creeper. Can't do it using a creeper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncsteve Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 Do you happen to have the part numbers and vendor for them? I need to do the same thing to mine. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven P Posted May 12, 2020 Author Share Posted May 12, 2020 13 hours ago, ncsteve said: Do you happen to have the part numbers and vendor for them? I need to do the same thing to mine. Thanks! These were what mine needed. I'm not sure if you would use the same. I ordered from Zoro.com. Amazon was gonna take like 2 months. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RRoger Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 Steven, Thank you for the pictures and the replacement connection. I used 4X4 posts cut to my ride height to protect myself while under the coach (HWH air level only). Always the opportunity to work on something if the ambition and time allows /or demands such work. On 3/2/2020 at 8:52 AM, CountryB said: I prefer to "drive" the coach up onto ramps (homemade from wood). That gives enough clearance to get under coach and work even if air bags are deflated. I do not block the frame (to hold body up if air bags deflate) unless I'm working on something in that space (like replacing an air bag). I just know where the crush points are in the event the air bags deflate when I'm under coach, and I stay out of those crush zones. Once under/past the coach's side skirt/body, there is quite a bit of room (with or without airbags inflated). How does it appear that the tires ore not even resting on your drive up RAMPS? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncsteve Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 11 hours ago, Steven P said: These were what mine needed. I'm not sure if you would use the same. I ordered from Zoro.com. Amazon was gonna take like 2 months. Thank you for the info. I am going to check the sizes of the ones I need and get them ordered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Hutto Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 On 3/1/2020 at 1:55 PM, Steven P said: ...I do need to invest in some blocks. What do you use? Where do you place them? Thanks. I bought a pair of 12 ton jack stands. The most weight I have on any corner is 9,600 lbs, so the 12,000 lb per jack rating seems sufficient. I place them under the frame rails. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven P Posted May 23, 2020 Author Share Posted May 23, 2020 On 5/20/2020 at 11:39 PM, Scotty Hutto said: I bought a pair of 12 ton jack stands. The most weight I have on any corner is 9,600 lbs, so the 12,000 lb per jack rating seems sufficient. I place them under the frame rails. Scotty, they weren't the ones from Harbor Freight? that were recalled I hope? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Hutto Posted May 23, 2020 Share Posted May 23, 2020 11 minutes ago, Steven P said: Scotty, they weren't the ones from Harbor Freight? that were recalled I hope? Yes, they are from Harbor Freight; no, I checked and they are not subject to recall. 😉 The ones I purchased are on clearance right now. I don’t usually buy from Harbor Freight, but I had to have these “that day”... https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-jack-stands-34924.html 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CountryB Posted June 1, 2020 Share Posted June 1, 2020 On 5/12/2020 at 12:44 AM, RRoger said: How does it appear that the tires ore not even resting on your drive up RAMPS? In the photo I had the wheel jacked up (with a hydraulic jack, and caged the spring brake) so I could rotate the driveshaft. The Tag axle is hanging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdinsmore Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 I have Monaco (?) p/n's from the Monaco drawing of the front and rear air tanks but they are not showing up via a Google search. I have a bad leak in the switch identified as #E p/n N18526AG and smaller leaks in #N p/n VS271NTA-4. I would appreciate help in locating where to find replacements. I did not see anything in the Monaco Parts Listing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gburgman2000 Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 (edited) https://www.amazon.com/Parker-Brake-Compression-Fitting-Tubing-NTA/dp/B078469DKJ Napa or any truck parts place should have them The other one is might be a NASON switch (outdated) https://www.nasonptc.com/products/switches/ Edited July 28, 2020 by gburgman2000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaliCruiser Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 Thought I'd ask here, rather than starting a new topic - Could anyone confirm whether HWH was the air system manufacturer used on all 1997 models? I have a leaky valve that I'm hoping to identify a part number for without removing it (and forcing me to stay in one place). I see the HWH content in the downloads section, but am not sure if it applies to my year/model. I got through to Roadmaster and they couldn't answer. Haven't been able to get through to a live person at Monaco/Rev. Also tried Veurink's, but they didn't have any info either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaliCruiser Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 18 hours ago, CaliCruiser said: Thought I'd ask here, rather than starting a new topic - Could anyone confirm whether HWH was the air system manufacturer used on all 1997 models? I have a leaky valve that I'm hoping to identify a part number for without removing it (and forcing me to stay in one place). I see the HWH content in the downloads section, but am not sure if it applies to my year/model. I got through to Roadmaster and they couldn't answer. Haven't been able to get through to a live person at Monaco/Rev. Also tried Veurink's, but they didn't have any info either. Attaching a couple of pics of the valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ray Davis Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 (edited) Tony, I've been working to correct some air leaks and I replaced 4 of the valves shown in your picture. Those are PPVs ( pressure protection valves ) they were part # KN31000. They are not an HWH part, very generic, probably used on most motor homes with air brakes. Their job is to be sure enough air remains in the tanks for braking before the spring emergency brake engages, if a leak develops in some air accessory. The problem I ran into was 2 of my valves used the ports on top of the valves and nearly all sources had valves that were not threaded. I finally found them at https://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-170-KN31000-Pressure-Protection/dp/B079K5FY38/ref=sr_1_13?dchild=1&keywords=pressure+protection+valve&qid=1614829269&sr=8-13 Truck Parts World 5765 E. Loop 281 S. Longview, Texas 75602 best to call & talk to Joseph ( real nice guy ) 903-757-4572 I ordered my DOT ( important ) push to connect fittings from https://www.mcmaster.com/dot-push-to-connect-dot-tube-fittings/shape~tee/ Their on line catalog is very good, I can even understand it. haha Here is a thread on IRV2 about air leaks https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/another-monaco-with-air-leaks-526003.html Edited March 11, 2021 by Ray Davis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob M cKeown Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 Good idea to physically check your fittings first. I recently did a lot of work on air leaks on my 03 Signature and there are combinations of 3/8" and 1/4" diameter air lines with 1/8" NPT and 1/4" NPT (National Pipe Thread) 90's, Tees, Straight NPT to Hose connectors and Couplings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaliCruiser Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 Ray & Rob, thanks for the info, very helpful. 🙏 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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