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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/485-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

IOTA ITS-50R
tmw188
80R vs 75R??
Frank McElroy
No Low Beam Only High Beam
Paul Busch
Headlights Stuck on High Beam
Dr4Film
Headlights Stuck on High Beam
klcdenver
Unknown cable
KevinH
Unknown cable
JDCrow
Unknown cable
Homebozy
Unknown cable
cbr046
ISB 5.9 water pump
JDCrow
IOTA ITS-50R
Scotty Hutto
ISB 5.9 water pump
Chuck B
Unknown cable
Dennis-C
IOTA ITS-50R
Admirial RVr
Brake Lights Intermittent
FWGERHART
Unknown cable
Gary Cole
Brake Lights Intermittent
waterskier_1
New exhaust
moxy1962
Brake Lights Intermittent
FWGERHART
New exhaust
cbr046
New exhaust
moxy1962
WARNING LIGHT
Robert U
Unknown cable
Ivylog
Brake Lights Intermittent
Ivylog
New exhaust
klcdenver
WARNING LIGHT
Dr4Film
New exhaust
moxy1962
WARNING LIGHT
Robert U
WARNING LIGHT
Hancoman
Unknown cable
KevinH
EGT Gauge Added
CRY1942
EGT Gauge Added
klcdenver
IOTA ITS-50R
Gary M
New exhaust
Ivan K
New exhaust
moxy1962
New exhaust
Ivan K
New exhaust
moxy1962
New exhaust
David White
New exhaust
moxy1962
New exhaust
cbr046
New exhaust
moxy1962
New exhaust
David White
New exhaust
moxy1962
Slides not working, keep blowing fuse
monacowner

New Posts

IOTA ITS-50R
tmw188
8 hours ago, Admirial RVr said:

Scotty,

What is different or better about the Southwire vs ESCO? 

Looking forward to what Monaco tell Gary.

Don

Yes inquiring minds want to know. 


80R vs 75R??
Frank McElroy

Woody, once you look at your axle weight ratings and your actual coach weights you will find that based on these numbers, and the tire weight ratings at maximum inflation pressures, going drown from 80R to 75R is not an option.


No Low Beam Only High Beam
Paul Busch

I don’t know if my 05 sig castle is the same but I have been having trouble with the low beam staying on. My high beam switches on and off with column lever but low beam light go out and will not come back on. There are wires coming to smart wheel controller in side electrical bay and one of them was scorched. They are labeled high and low beams. I replace smart wheel controller, light switch and still had trouble. Turns out wiggling wiring harness from panel going through to front of coach was a loose connection. Cleaned all grounds and connection worked for me.

paul


Headlights Stuck on High Beam
Dr4Film

Do you have a special Hamsar Relay in your Front Run Bay that is for the headlights to control them when you use your FOG lamps?

If so you might want to check that relay to see if it may have shorted or failed.


Slides not working, keep blowing fuse
Dr4Film

I still am puzzled as to what was blowing the 7.5 amp fuse. Those bay button switches simply interrupt the ground to prevent you from operating the slides when the bay door is open. It's not like they are the positive load side of the 12 VDC electrical circuit.


Headlights Stuck on High Beam
klcdenver

Thanks. just found it reset connectors 67,68 & 69 and fixed.


Unknown cable
KevinH

Does anybody know what this cable is for? It’s in the cabinet above the driver seat.

DCA93E40-5348-45B1-B931-74FD11791E37.jpeg


Unknown cable
JDCrow

No expert, but some sort of video cable? I know I’m captain obvious 


Unknown cable
Homebozy

For a handheld diagnostic maybe? Forgot about the old serial port. Thanks Gary.


Unknown cable
cbr046

Could be a control cable for a satellite system.  Seems like old (like ancient old) Direct TV receivers had something like that.  Above the drivers seat / left is where they put the sat rec.  Above / front is for the stereo / CD player. 

- bob

 


ISB 5.9 water pump
JDCrow

From a DIY guy, doable, how much time can you devote? 
 

I do not owe and ISB, but to me biggest hurdle is the Rads/Coolers. Once they are out you should have acres of access. 
 

While there, new AC pump? Obviously belts/tensioner? Have rad/cooler cleaned, new hoses? Jobs tend to get bigger the more I think about them. It’s why you get 2-3 phone calls when your rig is at the shop.

 

”hey, when we took this apart, we noticed this needed replaced” 

Shops already know, they just quote you cheap. Once it all tore apart, what are you going to do? Of course you HAVE to fix it and now we are at their mercy for price and TIME. 
 

 


IOTA ITS-50R
Scotty Hutto
13 hours ago, Admirial RVr said:

Scotty,

What is different or better about the Southwire vs ESCO? 

Looking forward to what Monaco tell Gary.

Don

Don,

That thought is based on a lot of conversation with my late friend Bill Groves.  Bill was an engineer in the switchgear business for many years before he started his own company, GTEK.  He preferred the way that the Southco (aka TRC) handled the switchover from shore power to generator and vice-versa - specifically the that the ESCO did not have mechanical interlocks for the neutral and was not UL1008 listed.  That said, many have installed the ESCO LTP50RD (including myself) and have not had a problem.  The key to "not having a problem" for me has been Bill's advice to make sure and unplug shore power BEFORE starting the genny, or shut down the genny BEFORE plugging into shore power.  By doing that you bypass the potential issue of neutral current flow during a transfer.

Below are Bill's comments from a February 2016 discussion on the subject.  He was rather adamant... 🙂 But he also told me if I follow the advice above I shouldn't have a problem.  He also recommended the Southwire product (they purchased TRC, mentioned below).

-----

Gary,

 
If you want the open neutral protection at and downstream of the ats and use a progressive ems at the pole or in front of the ats as recommended by many on this forum, then get the trc 41260 for 220$ from dyersonline or elsewhere.
 
Stay clear of the lpt50brd.
Here are just a few things wrong with it:
 
1. It is not a ul1008 listed transfer switch. This listing guarantees certain things that a transfer switch should have and do.
2. It utilizes general purpose double throw 40amp frame relays.
3. It has no ability to turn off both sources of power and thus cannot provide time delays needed if the shore power is on when you switch to genny. It's either shore or genny and cannot do neither, i.e. Both sources off. When you plug in a trc, no source is connected. Only after neutral and ground are validated and a time delay is the shore contactor activated.
4. In the case where shore is still on, if you start your genny, the neutral relay switched first , leaving you with open neutral on the shore for about two cycles before the line relay switches. The line relay is not allowed to switch until the neutral relay is confirmed to have been switched. This protects you from a burned out coil on the neutral relay but makes no assurance that the coil on the line relay is not burned out. For that they depend on shore being off. DO NOT START YOUR GENNY WITH SHORE POWER ON WITH THE LPT50brd.
5. It is not mechanically interlocked. If one relay gets stuck contacts you can end up with shore with no neutral.
6. It has no surge protection.
7. It has no open neutral protection.
8. It has no open ground protection.
9. It is not FLA rated to switch inductive loads.
10. The progressive ems50 at the post does not protect you from open neutral at the ats or errant genny behavior at all. Ats failure is often the problem as we have seen.
 
The es50-65n is by far the better transfer switch. I used to sell transfer switches and went to square-d school for them. In a prior career I was the industrial field engineer for them in the New Orleans area.
 
Believe me when I tell you that the lpt50brd is not an ats that should be allowed within 100 ft of your coach. Anyone who has been recommending the LPT needs to take another look at it from a technical standpoint. 
 
Just because some tech recommends it because it doesn't hum is not enough. I think a lot of shops use it because they can buy it for a few bucks less than a real ats. I see it for about 150$. Be assured that the 70$ you save now might cost you a lot more later with downstream damage. As far as field servicing, I don't know anyone who has repaired one.
 
All that said, I have not used this particular trc ats but it gets high ratings. The one in the Dynasty is its big brother that also provides protection from out of band voltages and frequencies and so takes the place of the progressive ems50 also. And it's also UL listed as an ats. It's ties into the Aladdin system and displays plain English status, Volts , frequent, source etc.
 
I see you have an 09 Dynasty.
Does it not have the trc40250 or 40350? Those are the high end ones that have 130,000 amps of surge protection... And protect from all the other stuff like volts, freq, open n , etc. 
 
Why are you changing it.? Has it failed ? Mine is 11 years old and works every time.
 
Bill G

 


ISB 5.9 water pump
Chuck B

The rear radiator and associated items will have to be removed to gain access to the engine where the water pump is located.  Not a easy job.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Unknown cable
Dennis-C

In the cabinet immediately to the right of the TV box in my 98 Patriot is a small panel with the KVH logo on it.  There is a power switch for when you want the satellite antenna searching and next to that is a port that looks like the pins on your cable and it's labeled "Maintenance".  I suspect it's for a tech to plug into for diagnostics.

-D


IOTA ITS-50R
Admirial RVr

Scotty,

Great info many thanks. 

Don                2006 Monaco Diplomat


Brake Lights Intermittent
FWGERHART

Noticed last week, after not moving coach for months, coach break lights are not working properly. I start the coach. Let it air up fully. Check turn signals (which work fine). Pump brakes. Side brake lights, and the center brake light strip, all work on the first pump of the brakes. Then either nothing or intermittent. Shutdown engine, wait, start engine, same problem. Thought maybe the reply. Replaced. Did not resolve. Someone suggested the switch by the pedal? Not sure. Would appreciate help. Monaco Knight 2005. 107k miles. Thank you. Fred


Unknown cable
Gary Cole

It's a serial cable of some sort. Not a VGA cable because it's missing  the 15th pin. Not used much today because of USB.


Taking a long trip, what parts to bring along
waterskier_1
On 7/15/2021 at 11:33 AM, Gary Cole said:

One has to be a Philadelphia lawyer/Mathematician in order to calculate maximum gross weight. With a yearly permit some trucks weigh in at 129,000 lbs and more depending on the state. Oregon, being crazy, allows a natural gas powered truck a 2000 lb bonus. 

I always thought the manufacturer calculated the MacMillan gross vehicle weight.


Brake Lights Intermittent
waterskier_1

Not sure how much pumping the brakes you are doing, but the brake light switch requires air pressure to operate. If you are pumping the air down to low, the brake lights won't work. 


New exhaust
moxy1962

78141D7F-8325-4F96-B4B0-0153FA31D8B3.thumb.jpeg.8098b9d88a1308ab6cb512e1934e80c5.jpegComplete my exhaust replacement today, new brackets, flex pipe, elbow replaced 2’ of down pipe, replaced 45* elbow at muffler, muffler, $800 in parts a d about 10 hours of my time, 

0C9C5F4B-A504-4764-A0EB-750592666CA1.jpeg

61593BE1-FA16-4C87-A707-A664DD490B72.jpeg


Brake Lights Intermittent
FWGERHART

I'm giving ample time between applying brakes for air to replenish. Start engine. It airs up full. I pump brakes ONCE. Works as it should. Wait 30 seconds to a minute, no lights. And seldom lights from that point on.


WeBoost Drive 4G-X OTR Signal Booster
cbr046

Update:  Ordered

Inseego 8800L Jetpack (Verizon hotspot) used from Amazon, about half price.

Two Wilson (WeBoost) directional antennas (MIMO setup)

Two 25 ft cables + 2 SMA-TS9 pigtails . . . . all for $285

There was a lot of shopping for reputable low loss cables.  The Wilson / WeBoost cables were ultra low loss and more than the antennas so I went with alternatives (Wlaniot, 25 ft) at 1/3 the price.  There's a wide variety in cable quality.  Some are loosely braided, some are aluminum foil shielded . . . . It's a crap-shoot whether these cables will be any good or not.  I may never really know (no testing equipment). 

Still need to that all important SIM card and to build a PVC mast for a temporary setup.  Got a trip to middle-of-nowhere PA in 10 days.  We'll see if there's any signal to work from. 

Ultimately I'll want to attach the two antennas to the TV mast without removing the batwing.  I don't think there will be much wind loading that low to the roof, but I'm very apprehensive about punching new holes and pulling cables inside the roof.  A few more videos should do it . . . .

"Film at 11"

- bob

 

 

 


New exhaust
cbr046

How much of that 10 hours was beating on rusty bolts / joints?

- bob

 


New exhaust
moxy1962
3 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

How much of that 10 hours was beating on rusty bolts / joints?

- bob

 

Cut off disc and grinder, didn’t try to save any of the 20 year old hardware 


Taking a long trip, what parts to bring along
JDCrow
1 hour ago, waterskier_1 said:

I always thought the manufacturer calculated the MacMillan gross vehicle weight.

For the rigs, not for the roads 


Air bag diagram for 1998 Beaver Patriot Ticonderoga 37' ?
Dennis-C

Is there any kind of documentation out there for the air bag system for the Magnum Chassis.  Something like a plumbing diagram for all the air lines, fittings locations, tanks, etc.?  Both rear bags down on passenger rear.  Tech hasn't looked yet, but doubts that both bags would be deflated at the same time by damage, so gonna look for a leaky fitting.

Thanks,

Dennis

 


WARNING LIGHT
Robert U

I am having a intermittent warning light on my 2000 Diplomat ISC8.3 315hp. My coolant temp is running at 189 degrees normal. When I climb a hill the temp  will climb to about 191 to193 degrees and the warning light may come on. Radiator is new and clean. Coolant level is OK. Wiring diagram shows coolant sensor going directly to dash gauge and not to ECM. Is there a second sensor on the engine wired to the ECM and if so where is it located on the engine ?

Bob U


Unknown cable
Ivylog

X2 on old sat cable…throw it away.


Brake Lights Intermittent
Ivylog

There should be a air operated switch on the firewall (open generator slide) that supplies a ground when you put on the brakes. Shorting across that switch should turn on the brake lights every time.


Air bag diagram for 1998 Beaver Patriot Ticonderoga 37' ?
Ivylog

Arm/rod between the ride height valve and rear axle is likely broken… probably the rubber end. Big truck stops usually carry them.


New exhaust
klcdenver

I just rebuilt my exhaust system and used an Aero Turbine muffler. I have about 350.00 plus my labor in it. 

463F327E-99F1-447C-AA05-27FF6961DA0B.jpeg


WARNING LIGHT
Dr4Film

Your coolant temps are WELL within the normal range so I don't believe that is contributing to your "warning light" issue.

Possibly your coolant level sensor needs to be cleaned and polished.


New exhaust
moxy1962

Thought about going to something smaller, less restrictive and cheaper but I can tell you now that after a 20 mile drive that with some rather large holes in the exhaust pipes and a less than complete muffler I got around 28lbs of boost and the exhaust was very loud. With the new factory original system installed, the coach is quiet as a mouse with the pedal down and still getting 28lbs of boost, 

ive always been a believer that they knew what they were doing for the most part when they built these rigs, engine performance and noise abatement were obviously on their minds when the put bigger motors and huge mufflers in them, so, for me stock ISL and garbage can size muffler keeps me at the speed limit towing 10k car hauler in the middle lane and can sneak in anywhere pretty quietly 😊


WARNING LIGHT
Robert U

. I need to find Richard

Low coolant sensor is wired to low coolant light on dash. It is not coming on. There has to be a second sensor on the engine wired directly to the ECM. therefore it would not show on Monaco wiring schematic. I know that there is also a separate sensor for oil pressure on the engine witch is wired to ECM. I need to find the sensor for coolant temp.

Bob U


WARNING LIGHT
Hancoman

Good luck, my warning light came on and never went off. I had engine service all fluids topped off, coolant level sensor cleaned and polished to no avail, light still on. I have driven the coach from Washington State to South Carolina and back  coach performed flawlessly with warning light still shining brightly. 
I will be interested to see if you find a solution 

Tom C


Unknown cable
KevinH

OK thanks for the replies I had my carpets clean today so I can’t get into the RV today but tomorrow I will try to find the other end of it. 


EGT Gauge Added
CRY1942

Added an EGT Gauge, Start & Domestic Battery Monitor and USB Charger.

This is on a mechanical Cummins, C8.3, have always been curious about EGT temperatures, today was my test drive day.
Pulling out of storage, I usually go slow for a time to let the engine warm up. The EGT moved almost immediately from 250 degrees at idle to 450 degrees.
Rolling down the road on flat pavement the EGT stayed about 900 degrees.
Was surprised how sensitive the EGT is to accelerator changes, small rolling hills, increased accelerator pressure to maintain 60 MPH and EGT climbed to 1100 degrees immediately.
As soon as I crested the hill and backed off the accelerator the EGT immediately dropped back to 900 again.
From a stop sign, foot on the floor, EGT went to 1100 degrees, as soon as the pedal was released, back to 900 degrees.

I have no idea if these measurements are about average or what to expect.
1300 degrees is the danger point so I have read.
I can see, pulling mountains, the importance of the EGT Gauge on a mechanical engine.
I am guess, those with electronic engines the Engine Computer will take care of the injector fuel flow and EGT temperatures.

Thought this might be of interest to my fellow mechanical Cummins owners.

Travel safe.
 

EGT Project.jpg


EGT Gauge Added
klcdenver

Very nice set up.


IOTA ITS-50R
Gary M
7 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:

Don,

That thought is based on a lot of conversation with my late friend Bill Groves.  Bill was an engineer in the switchgear business for many years before he started his own company, GTEK.  He preferred the way that the Southco (aka TRC) handled the switchover from shore power to generator and vice-versa - specifically the that the ESCO did not have mechanical interlocks for the neutral and was not UL1008 listed.  That said, many have installed the ESCO LTP50RD (including myself) and have not had a problem.  The key to "not having a problem" for me has been Bill's advice to make sure and unplug shore power BEFORE starting the genny, or shut down the genny BEFORE plugging into shore power.  By doing that you bypass the potential issue of neutral current flow during a transfer.

Below are Bill's comments from a February 2016 discussion on the subject.  He was rather adamant... 🙂 But he also told me if I follow the advice above I shouldn't have a problem.  He also recommended the Southwire product (they purchased TRC, mentioned below).

-----

Gary,

 
If you want the open neutral protection at and downstream of the ats and use a progressive ems at the pole or in front of the ats as recommended by many on this forum, then get the trc 41260 for 220$ from dyersonline or elsewhere.
 
Stay clear of the lpt50brd.
Here are just a few things wrong with it:
 
1. It is not a ul1008 listed transfer switch. This listing guarantees certain things that a transfer switch should have and do.
2. It utilizes general purpose double throw 40amp frame relays.
3. It has no ability to turn off both sources of power and thus cannot provide time delays needed if the shore power is on when you switch to genny. It's either shore or genny and cannot do neither, i.e. Both sources off. When you plug in a trc, no source is connected. Only after neutral and ground are validated and a time delay is the shore contactor activated.
4. In the case where shore is still on, if you start your genny, the neutral relay switched first , leaving you with open neutral on the shore for about two cycles before the line relay switches. The line relay is not allowed to switch until the neutral relay is confirmed to have been switched. This protects you from a burned out coil on the neutral relay but makes no assurance that the coil on the line relay is not burned out. For that they depend on shore being off. DO NOT START YOUR GENNY WITH SHORE POWER ON WITH THE LPT50brd.
5. It is not mechanically interlocked. If one relay gets stuck contacts you can end up with shore with no neutral.
6. It has no surge protection.
7. It has no open neutral protection.
8. It has no open ground protection.
9. It is not FLA rated to switch inductive loads.
10. The progressive ems50 at the post does not protect you from open neutral at the ats or errant genny behavior at all. Ats failure is often the problem as we have seen.
 
The es50-65n is by far the better transfer switch. I used to sell transfer switches and went to square-d school for them. In a prior career I was the industrial field engineer for them in the New Orleans area.
 
Believe me when I tell you that the lpt50brd is not an ats that should be allowed within 100 ft of your coach. Anyone who has been recommending the LPT needs to take another look at it from a technical standpoint. 
 
Just because some tech recommends it because it doesn't hum is not enough. I think a lot of shops use it because they can buy it for a few bucks less than a real ats. I see it for about 150$. Be assured that the 70$ you save now might cost you a lot more later with downstream damage. As far as field servicing, I don't know anyone who has repaired one.
 
All that said, I have not used this particular trc ats but it gets high ratings. The one in the Dynasty is its big brother that also provides protection from out of band voltages and frequencies and so takes the place of the progressive ems50 also. And it's also UL listed as an ats. It's ties into the Aladdin system and displays plain English status, Volts , frequent, source etc.
 
I see you have an 09 Dynasty.
Does it not have the trc40250 or 40350? Those are the high end ones that have 130,000 amps of surge protection... And protect from all the other stuff like volts, freq, open n , etc. 
 
Why are you changing it.? Has it failed ? Mine is 11 years old and works every time.
 
Bill G

 

No I am not necessarily changing it. Heard a lot bad about it so keep checking connections for tightness. Worked in a lumber mill and used a thermal imaging tool to check out all 480v connections for possible hot spots.


New exhaust
Ivan K
5 hours ago, moxy1962 said:

Cut off disc and grinder, didn’t try to save any of the 20 year old hardware 

Wow, that is some rust. What coach is it? I can't get the video working. 


New exhaust
moxy1962
1 minute ago, Ivan K said:

Wow, that is some rust. What coach is it? I can't get the video working. 

01 dynasty chancellor tag axle 


New exhaust
Ivan K
1 minute ago, moxy1962 said:

01 dynasty chancellor tag axle 

ISM 500? Looks similar,  maybe identical to ours but I think I still got few years to get ready to tackle it too.


New exhaust
moxy1962
7 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

ISM 500? Looks similar,  maybe identical to ours but I think I still got few years to get ready to tackle it too.

ISL


New exhaust
David White
3 hours ago, moxy1962 said:

Thought about going to something smaller, less restrictive and cheaper but I can tell you now that after a 20 mile drive that with some rather large holes in the exhaust pipes and a less than complete muffler I got around 28lbs of boost and the exhaust was very loud. With the new factory original system installed, the coach is quiet as a mouse with the pedal down and still getting 28lbs of boost, 

 

The above comment brings up a question in my mind.  I’m not sure that boost (28pi) has anything to to with increased efficiency from a more open exhaust. I would think the turbo boost would likely be the same, but possibly there is less restriction on exhaust with an Aero type system, and maybe more benefit from whatever boost you have.  
Im not trying to get into the “which is best” debate, but is there any difference in the boost between close and open exhaust systems?


New exhaust
moxy1962
7 minutes ago, David White said:

The above comment brings up a question in my mind.  I’m not sure that boost (28pi) has anything to to with increased efficiency from a more open exhaust. I would think the turbo boost would likely be the same, but possibly there is less restriction on exhaust with an Aero type system, and maybe more benefit from whatever boost you have.  
Im not trying to get into the “which is best” debate, but is there any difference in the boost between close and open exhaust systems?

As far as I know, boost is created by exhaust passing through the turbo, spinning impellers, the faster the exhaust the higher boost, if there are restrictions I expect that slows things down and creates less boost, my point was the with literally no restriction by virtue of my rotted out exhaust I achieved 28 lbs, once proper exhaust was installed I still made 28 lbs, so in my mind the only savings would be weight using a smaller muffler/resonator, with a likely increase in exhaust noise.

28lbs of boost is 28lbs of boost, as far as exhaust efficiency past the turbo, as far as I know it doesn’t matter after the turbo what happens as long as exhaust can exit unrestricted, which I would say judging by my results or does

 

 


New exhaust
cbr046

Or maybe the ECU is controlling maximum boost

- bob


New exhaust
moxy1962

Waste gates control turbo boost as far as I know 


New exhaust
David White
17 minutes ago, moxy1962 said:

Waste gates control turbo boost as far as I know 

That’s my point. I was thinking the waste gate opens and closes to allow exhaust to pass into the turbo, prior to getting into exit exhaust.  I would not think the exhaust/ muffler would have anything to do with the boost. Maybe I’m wrong.


New exhaust
moxy1962
31 minutes ago, moxy1962 said:

Waste gates control turbo boost as far as I know 

Bolt on exhaust modifications are a great way to get more horsepower out of your turbocharged vehicle. ... Turbo back exhausts accomplish this increased flow by widening the pipe size and removing restrictive factory bends. With this type of modification you will immediately notice an HP gain.


Slides not working, keep blowing fuse
monacowner

Not sure Richard. But I can tell you that it was one of those bay switches that was the culprit.


EGT Gauge Added
WinCinti

Also have the manual  8.3 in a 96 Monaco Windsor.

What is purchase info on gauge yo show?  Also where did you get your input signal for EGT?

Thank you. 


Slides not working, keep blowing fuse
pwhittle

Richard,

The wiring diagram looks like the bay door switches are interrupting 12V from the Slide Disable Relay.

Paul


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