Oil Pan Replacement?

[Dbircky]

On my back looking at the Camelot's oil pan, I could see some areas of rust bubbling under the paint.  So I decided to wire wheel it and re-paint it.  However, after popping a few blisters, I can see a little oil has seeped under the paint from the rusty areas.  I drained the pan, and am deciding between fixing in place with JB Weld or just replacing the whole thing.  If I go the replacement route, it looks like the hitch comes off which includes the rear engine mount to be able to remove the pan.  Has anyone done this and have any idea how to support the engine when this mount is removed?  I have an engine lift, but there's little room on top of the engine to lift it.  I realize that I don't have to lift up much to remove the mount, but am looking for an additional way to secure the engine (besides the lift) as I'm working on it.  Has anyone done this?   I've had great luck with JB on other tanks/pans including side covers on dirt bikes as long as your meticulous with surface prep.  That's obviously the way to go if I can't lift/support the engine safely. 

 

Thank you.   

[Speerfamily]

Assuming your rig is a side radiator... I just removed my pan and put a new pan gasket on it. I painted it and put it back.  I had to lift up on the front of the engine with an engine hoist to give the pan room to clear the rear support.  I did not remove the engine mount bolts, there was enough flex to lift it a couple inches.  I also tilted the hitch (its basically a square) -  I only took the rear bolts (closest to front of coach) out of the hitch, loosened the front bolts and pushed the front of the hitch straight up as far as possible so the back of the hitch is as low as possible... these two things allowed me to slide the pan out. You only need 4-6 inches to clear the pickup tube with runs from the front shallow end of the pan to the deep end. I had no issues with the pan clearing at the rear (trans side). Hope this helps...

[Charlie]

I've thought about replacing my oil pan too, as it was dented in an inch or so by the first owner - drain bolt pushed up level with the surrounding square pan bottom. Obviously not an easy job as it would be on a normal vehicle. I've put off thinking about it until I saw your post. If you find out the best (easiest but safest) way to do it, please share, thanks ahead of time!

[Speerfamily]

2 minutes ago, Speerfamily said:

Assuming your rig is a side radiator... I just removed my pan and put a new pan gasket on it. I painted it and put it back.  I had to lift up on the front of the engine with an engine hoist to give the pan room to clear the rear support.  I did not remove the engine mount bolts, there was enough flex to lift it a couple inches.  I also tilted the hitch (its basically a square) -  I only took the rear bolts (closest to front of coach) out of the hitch, loosened the front bolts and pushed the front of the hitch straight up as far as possible so the back of the hitch is as low as possible... these two things allowed me to slide the pan out. You only need 4-6 inches to clear the pickup tube with runs from the front shallow end of the pan to the deep end. I had no issues with the pan clearing at the rear (trans side). Hope this helps...

On edit, I may have removed the one engine mount bolt in the front....and you could rent an engine hoist,,,there is just enough room to slide it....

Edited July 19, 2021 by Speerfamily

[cbr046]

If you JB Weld it, and it doesn't fix the seeps, what have you lost?

- bob

 

[miacasa_2000]

I've had good luck with Marine tex gray seems for me a little thicker so easier to work with and more forgiving on adhesion especially when even though you'll probably drain the pan before repair some oil will still try to seep thru. With either one shine that pan up way past the rusty area and then rough it up for good adhesion  and spread over the whole shinny area repaint and you'll probably be fine for a long time at least in that spot. 

[Ivylog]

I ran into the same issue when replacing the seriously cracked aluminum oil pan on my ISX… had patched with JB enough to get home. I was able to change the angle of the hitch, raising the ball, which increased the clearance enough for the pan to come off. You can read about it here: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f123/replacing-isx-oil-pan-oh-what-a-pain-509290.html

[Dbircky]

Thank you.  

[Dbircky]

Just thought I'd send an update.  Used JB Weld after wire wheeling the paint and rust off (mostly)   Drained oil out first, it was almost time for a change anyway.  So far, no leaks, but will replace the pan the next time it leaks.   I was quoted $2,500 and up to replace.  There is little clearance between the hitch and the pan, no doubt the frame section has to be removed which is where the rear engine mount is.  

Now I'm at REV to get the Power Gear Leveling fixed.  Right rear fault code, tech said he thinks the panel is bad?  Also discovered after plugging into the 50 amp post that I was only pulling 30 amp (one leg dead)  switched posts, same.  Looks like the transfer switch croaked, but they said it's not made anymore.  Working on a replacement/upgrade idea.  Has anyone done this?

The new ones look really nice, but $$$$ and too much bling for me.

Thanks, for the help.

[96 EVO]

Yes.

ESCO Lyght  LPT50BRD