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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/488-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Unknown cable
granvillebarker
Muffler for ISC engine
pulsarjab
New exhaust
Dr4Film
Cursed G2000 awning will not extend
cureinc1
Muffler for ISC engine
moxy1962
New exhaust
gjh2916
Slide creeps in
cureinc1
New exhaust
cbr046
Suggestions for New Tires
djkantanen
Suggestions for New Tires
FishAR
New exhaust
vanwill52
Muffler for ISC engine
Robert U
Coolant leaking
powersltc
Oil Pan Replacement?
Dbircky
Oil Pan Replacement?
Speerfamily
Oil Pan Replacement?
Charlie
Oil Pan Replacement?
Speerfamily
Oil Pan Replacement?
cbr046
IOTA ITS-50R
Tom Cherry
CB antenna replacement
Scott S
Diplomat Duo Therm Heat pump problem
rwilliamsr42
Suggestions for New Tires
djkantanen
Radiator Mount Picture
Jim Byrd
EGT Gauge Added
CRY1942
Diplomat Duo Therm Heat pump problem
rwilliamsr42
Fuel sender
Steven
Radiator Mount Picture
cbr046
Radiator Mount Picture
Jim Byrd
Radiator Mount Picture
cbr046
Fuel sender
redeye0315
Fuel sender
Chuck B
Looking for some help, no power in coach
redstickbill
Radiator Mount Picture
Jim Byrd

New Posts

Mobley turns off after about 30 minutes.
cbr046

There's a somewhat related discussion on iRV2.  It's coming up on a year old.  It doesn't address your failures but discusses what others were replacing with. 

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f53/replacement-for-mobley-hotspot-510984.html

Wild guess but your's could be heat related from a buildup of dust covering internal components (attracted by the heat).  Try blowing some compressed air through it.  But I'm guessing it's on it's last leg. 

Good luck,

- bob


How to sanitize '05 Beaver Fresh Water System
old5foot

'05 Beaver Monterey

Not sure how to add Bleach to Fresh Water Fill

System is easy to winterize (Disconnect Water Pump Supply , Add Hose to Anti-freeze bottle).

Had coach for 11 years and this year after flushing Fresh water System several times it stinks like sewer water.  

Appreciate any comments or pictures of how you've been able to add Bleach to the Fresh Water Fill. 

Adding Bleach at the Water Pump bypasses the Holding tank, which I would like to Sanitize also.

Plan to try and isolate odor to Hot or Cold  Water today.  Thinking it may be the Aqua Hot.

Appreciate any comments.

Doug


Unknown cable
granvillebarker
On 7/15/2021 at 5:59 AM, Poohbear said:

Ok I will , thanks for the replies, I just thought they sound electric but will have to dig a little deeper into it.

 

10 hours ago, Gary Cole said:

What is it they say about economists?😏 Ask 2 a question and you will receive 3 correct answers. Monaco drawing #38051218 shows an audio video controller with two 15 pin cables routed to the TV which allows the Aladdin system to use the TV as a monitor. Still don't understand the missing pin at 7 which is called out in the standard. Didn't see anything which referenced the satellite system

 

The missing pin is 9 not 7, key pin on older VGA standard.


How to sanitize '05 Beaver Fresh Water System
Chargerman

I add bleach via my gravity fill line and then put a little in the hose that hooks up to city water. I add the appropriate amount of bleach and fill the tank completely. Then run all faucets and shower until the bleach mixture has filled all lines, let sit for at least 4 hours then drain and flush everything with fresh water. I think in your case I would up the amount of bleach a bit. 


How to sanitize '05 Beaver Fresh Water System
willbo777

Just pour the bleach into the water hose and then reconnect.


How to sanitize '05 Beaver Fresh Water System
cbr046

The hot water tank will develop a "sulphur smell" if left filled and not used for a few months.  Pretty easy to distinguish - run hot water only.

I've not had to disinfect the cold water tank, because in the past I would dump the tank after almost every trip.  On the Fleetwood it was easy as it had a large 2" dump valve & line.  The Holiday Rambler not so much - it just trickles out and takes forever.  I could open a drain line and run the pump but really don't like running the pump that long. 

Pour the bleach into an empty water hose then fill the hot or cold tank depending which way the valve is set.  After filling the HW tank get it hot and let it sit for a spell, then dump the tank. 

How much bleach does it take?  I don't know. 

Don't let it sit in the cold water tank too long (not more than a day).  The tank is plastic and bleach can make it brittle over time (months).  Be sure to flush the tank and lines with fresh water to flush the bleach solution out.

Best,

- bob


How to sanitize '05 Beaver Fresh Water System
Ivylog

X3 on putting the bleach in a water hose and then only filling the water tank 1/4th full and then flushing all of the lines/faucets using the water pump.

 

PS: been drinking the water out of the RV tank, filled wherever we are, for 50 years…tasted and looked better than the well water I drank at home for 40 years.


Kongsberg Chassis Control Module CCM mx shop
Frank McElroy

M&M electronics in Ohio might be able to help.

https://www.mmrvelectronics.com/

Likely your problem is with the Eaton multiplex dash master or slave switch modules and/or the associated wiring.  If you are also having issues with the smart wheel controls not working it is likely a bad +5 volt supply from the CCM module and that is fixable with an aux +5 volt supply.

Does the dimmer switch light up all the switches if you press and hold the dimmer switch?


Muffler for ISC engine
pulsarjab

Our 2000 Diplomat needs a new muffler. I am looking for a like replacement. Where will I find the correct part?

Thanks

2000 ISC Diplomat


New exhaust
Dr4Film
19 hours ago, vanwill52 said:

NO!  I'm saying that no matter how high your boost pressure is above the "stock" configuration, the ECM will NOT deliver ANY additional fuel to take advantage of the increased boost BEYOND THE MAX IT IS ALREADY PROGRAMMED FOR.  At your STOCK boost PSI, the ECM will deliver a max amount of fuel that is programmed for that max STOCK boost.  Increase your boost above stock and the ECM will not deliver one iota more fuel.  Only Cummins INSITE software can change that.

The ECM delivers an amount of fuel based on throttle position, boost, and a few other parameters like intake manifold temperature, coolant temperature, etc.  But NOTHING (other than a "chip") will deliver one iota beyond the MAX fuel per injection that the ECM is programmed to deliver.  Re-read my post more carefully.

If it was as simple as increasing boost to increase performance, there would not be a "chip" industry.  All you would have to do is increase boost, the ECM adds more fuel because of increased boost...and VOILA!...you have more power.

You are talking about "theory", which I HOPED was true when I began this adventure.  I hoped if I increased boost, the ECM would recognize the additional boost and add more fuel.  ABSOLUTELY NOT.  I'm talking about lots of hours of EXPERIENCE, learning that the ECM will NOT add extra fuel just because I have raised boost pressure.  Increased boost will reduce EGT, but will not add additional fueling.  Without additional fueling, there is NO increase in power.  A few folks on this forum understand that principle.

I'm not trying to be rude, and certainly not condescending.  I'm simply stating a FACT that my EXPERIENCE has proven beyond a shadow of a doubt--raising boost will NOT increase MAX fuel delivery (and therefore CANNOT increase power).  If you wish to dispute that fact, please provide dyno statistics...before and after boost increase.  Your OPINIONS fall into the same category as my HOPES when I began increasing boost pressure.  I'm an engineer.  I trust FACTS.  The FACT is that increasing my boost pressure did nothing other than reduce my EGT.  I was disappointed.  I hoped the ECM would recognize the additional boost and supply additional fuel to take advantage of it.  NOPE.  I had to add a "chip" to get increased fueling...and performance.

Richard,

I suspect that you can talk to the folks at Ag Solutions and get a 12100 part number pre-programmed to take advantage of the additional boost the Banks "hot-rod" turbo provides.  I think they tend to be somewhat conservative.  Just like the Cummins ECM, their "chip" is programmed to provide only a specified amount of additional fueling.  You are like me, and I think you could keep an eye on your EGT gage and control EGT with throttle position and RPM.  They are not expensive, and they simply have an “extension cord” device that plugs into one of the three-prong connectors leaving the injection control unit.  It’s a very easy addition.  I have no doubt you could handle the installation yourself.  Just tell them you already have the Banks turbo and tell them what your boost PSI is.  Ask them to program your unit accordingly.

You have my phone number.  Call me if you have any questions.

Van

Thanks Van! I may wait until after the Monacoers Gathering in February to make a decision as to what to do if anything. I can talk to you more in depth at that time.

17 hours ago, gjh2916 said:

I had a Banks Power Pack System on my ISC 8.3 coach and four years ago the the controller bit the dust. Was told by Banks they no longer support my system and controller were not available. I disconnected the the controller and wiring harness, left the banks turbo, and waste gate. I installed a USDIESELCHIP Controller which I purchased from TS Performance in Bowling Green KY. I am well pleased with the performance and fuel  mileage. The only thing is I can't turn it all the way up because if I do engine warning lights come on. If I set it about 2/3rds of the way it preforms perfect 

Gary, prior to having the Banks Power-Pack system installed I had a TS Performance MP-8 Power Play installed while up in Alaska one year. Upon leaving for the lower 48 I immediately had engine warning lights lit up on my dash and the engine response was horrible not even close to what I expected. Attempted to try different settings with horrible results. Finally had to pull over and turn the damn thing off completely just to get going down the road. Left it turned off until I purchased the Banks Power Pack and the Banks installation tech removed it for me. I then sold it on eBay just to get rid of it.

Now that my Power Pack is no longer operational I may try the AG Diesel Solutions chip one day.


How to sanitize '05 Beaver Fresh Water System
Chargerman

Seems like only filling the tank partially allows for “stuff” to still grow in the tank if that was the root of the issue


Mobley turns off after about 30 minutes.
Dr4Film

Mine has been on Full-Time since owning it back in 2017. It even stays powered on after AT&T had pushed its firmware update which eliminated the choice of NEVER under the Time-Out selections.

I purchased a barely used Mobley to have as a spare just in case my original one took a dump. If or when that happens I can simply remove the SIM card and install it into the spare.


Cursed G2000 awning will not extend
cureinc1

Had the same problem. Called Girard. Here is the fix. 

How to fix Girard awning

 

Locate control boxes

 

Turn off power at breaker

 

Locate ACL Current Limiter box

Open the junction box.

there are 4 wires in and r wires out.  All the same color.

remove the control board and wire the four wires in to the 4 wires out to each other of the same color.  Should be Green white black & red.  Use butt connectors.

Use the junction box to keep the butt connectors in

 

Ernest Cuaron 

07 Signature 21 Grand Cherokee Summit 

 


Muffler for ISC engine
moxy1962
32 minutes ago, pulsarjab said:

Our 2000 Diplomat needs a new muffler. I am looking for a like replacement. Where will I find the correct part?

Thanks

2000 ISC Diplomat

What are dimensions  of old muffler?


New exhaust
gjh2916

I had a Banks Power Pak System on my ISC 8.3 coach and four years ago the the controller bit the dust. Was told by Banks they no longer support my system and controller were not available. I disconnected the the controller and wiring harness, left the banks turbo, and waste gate. I installed a USDIESELCHIP Controller which I purchased from TS Performance in Bowling Green KY. I am well pleased with the performance and fuel  mileage. The only thing is I can't turn it all the way up because if I do engine warning lights come on. If I set it about 2/3rds of the way it preforms perfect.

Time flies my initial MP-8 purchase was in 2014, I had problems with it, 2015 TS Performance sent me a new and improved MP-8 Pro at no cost. Since then everything has worked fine. My horsepower has increase, fuel mileage stayed the same. On the rolling interstate hills my coach will maintain 65 or 70 what ever I have the cruise set at.  


How to sanitize '05 Beaver Fresh Water System
HarleyR

Here's what I do.

Sanitize the water system:
Prepare a chlorine bleach solution of 1/4 cup to 1 gallon of water for every 15 gallons of tank capacity. (For the 100 gallon tank, mix 1.25 cups, or 0.4 liters to 5 gallons water.) Add the solution to tank by first attaching the fill hose at the service panel, and then adding the mixture with a funnel to the other end of the hose before attaching to city water. Set the lever to fill tank, and fill with water. Open each faucet until a distinct chlorine order is smelled. Close faucets and let stand 4 hours. Drain system and flush with fresh water until chlorine odor and smell is gone.


Slide creeps in
cureinc1

Our front slide creeps out. What we do is run the slide in and out about 4 times and that will clear Any air that could be in the line.  


New exhaust
cbr046
1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

Now that my Power Pack is no longer operational I may try the AG Diesel Solutions chip one day.

Now that got me to thinkin . . . .

The AG DS chip says it gives 10-20% better mileage and costs $724 (ISC w CAPS pump).  So at 10% better mpg it would take $7500 in fuel to save $750, or 2500 gallons (at $3/g).  At 9.5 mpg, a 1 mpg increase, that's 23,750 miles, or about 2 years driving for me.  I'm using round numbers BTW for order of magnitude. 

I'm not concerned in my 0-70 elapsed time or if I can pull that hill without dropping speed.  It's all about the buck.  THE PROBLEM IS . . . . . DW handles all the finances.  Convincing her is the challenge. 

Let 'er rip,

- bob


Suggestions for New Tires
djkantanen

I used Motorhometires.com and purchased 8 Hercules tires. Give them a call they are excellent to work with, price was great and installation went as scheduled at our rv site. This was in April in Casa Grande, Arizona.


Suggestions for New Tires
FishAR
11 minutes ago, djkantanen said:

I used Motorhometires.com and purchased 8 Hercules tires. Give them a call they are excellent to work with, price was great and installation went as scheduled at our rv site. This was in April in Casa Grande, Arizona.

Have you driven on them much? Like them ok?

I've searched out a lot of reviews and haven't seen any major complaints.

I had to put Hercules on my Montana when I had bad tire wear on the way to Florida and it turned out to be a bent axle. Had them put on after the axle was replaced since I was a thousand miles from home they're all I could get. They've been good so far.


Mobley turns off after about 30 minutes.
Ray Davis
1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

Mine has been on Full-Time since owning it back in 2017. It even stays powered on after AT&T had pushed its firmware update which eliminated the choice of NEVER under the Time-Out selections.

I purchased a barely used Mobley to have as a spare just in case my original one took a dump. If or when that happens I can simply remove the SIM card and install it into the spare.

I have had our Mobley about the same time length and it stays on nearly all the time too.  We live rural, no internet out here, so Mobley is my only internet.                      Obama promised us high speed internet but so far it's only fios down the road along the hiway.

I unplug it and take it in the RV so that's about the only time I disconnect it.   I have had it lose contact with ATT a time or 2 over the yrs but unplugging it and plugging    it right back in has always made it come back up.  I wonder if since we are using it so often is why ours doesn't cut off.

I love the Mobley, it has been great for our situation.


New exhaust
vanwill52
33 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

Now that got me to thinkin . . . .

The AG DS chip says it gives 10-20% better mileage and costs $724 (ISC w CAPS pump).  So at 10% better mpg it would take $7500 in fuel to save $750, or 2500 gallons (at $3/g).  At 9.5 mpg, a 1 mpg increase, that's 23,750 miles, or about 2 years driving for me.  I'm using round numbers BTW for order of magnitude. 

I'm not concerned in my 0-70 elapsed time or if I can pull that hill without dropping speed.  It's all about the buck.  THE PROBLEM IS . . . . . DW handles all the finances.  Convincing her is the challenge. 

Let 'er rip,

- bob

Bob,

I wish you luck convincing "Mrs. Bob", but I find that claims for increased performance ACCOMPANIED by fuel mileage increases are 99% "snake oil" and 1% anecdotal anomalies.  My own experience with increasing fueling on my 1993 Dynasty 8.3-250 and my 2000 Dynasty ISC-350, is that fuel mileage DECREASES a small amount in proportion to how much you use that extra available power (extra FUELING).  There ain't no free lunch.

I asked Ag Solutions to pre-program my 12100 "chip" for a modest increase, and not to reach the point of smoking.  I got a modest increase in power, which I use every time I exit a rest stop to merge.  Even with 30 PSI boost, I reach 1400*F EGT by the time I merge.  And my fuel mileage has suffered only about 0.2 MPG.  I enjoy the additional power, but use it as little as possible.  And, of course, it increases EGT, so I think it's prudent to install an EGT gage prior to a "chip" and establish a "baseline" before adding fueling.  I've found that bone-stock EGT can be considerably beyond the ubiquitously accepted 1200*F.  My bone-stock ISC-350 would EASILY reach 1400*F under some conditions.  And contrary to popular opinion, there is NO sensing of EGT by the stock ECM.  I SUSPECT (do not KNOW) that Cummins exhaustively tested their ECM program to preclude engine damage under 99% of all expected operating conditions.

You can, of course, increase boost pressure to bring down EGT to "pre-chip" levels, as discussed elsewhere on this forum.


Cursed G2000 awning will not extend
Paul A.
1 hour ago, cureinc1 said:

Had the same problem. Called Girard. Here is the fix. 

How to fix Girard awning

 

Locate control boxes

 

Turn off power at breaker

 

Locate ACL Current Limiter box

Open the junction box.

there are 4 wires in and r wires out.  All the same color.

remove the control board and wire the four wires in to the 4 wires out to each other of the same color.  Should be Green white black & red.  Use butt connectors.

Use the junction box to keep the butt connectors in

 

Ernest Cuaron 

07 Signature 21 Grand Cherokee Summit 

 

THank you for that post. Talking to the Mfg. usually provides the needed infomation for the issue at hand. Sure beats speculations and opinions. 


Muffler for ISC engine
Robert U

I had mine replaced a couple years ago. I took it to a diesel shop and they measured it and got a new one from a truck parts place. Total cost was a little over $4oo

Bob U 2000 Dip ISC8.3


Coolant leaking
powersltc

I have added a gallon of coolant to reservoir and coach has been running for about 20 minutes.   Temp 158 and buzzer still sounding.


Oil Pan Replacement?
Dbircky

On my back looking at the Camelot's oil pan, I could see some areas of rust bubbling under the paint.  So I decided to wire wheel it and re-paint it.  However, after popping a few blisters, I can see a little oil has seeped under the paint from the rusty areas.  I drained the pan, and am deciding between fixing in place with JB Weld or just replacing the whole thing.  If I go the replacement route, it looks like the hitch comes off which includes the rear engine mount to be able to remove the pan.  Has anyone done this and have any idea how to support the engine when this mount is removed?  I have an engine lift, but there's little room on top of the engine to lift it.  I realize that I don't have to lift up much to remove the mount, but am looking for an additional way to secure the engine (besides the lift) as I'm working on it.  Has anyone done this?   I've had great luck with JB on other tanks/pans including side covers on dirt bikes as long as your meticulous with surface prep.  That's obviously the way to go if I can't lift/support the engine safely. 

 

Thank you.   


Oil Pan Replacement?
Speerfamily

Assuming your rig is a side radiator... I just removed my pan and put a new pan gasket on it. I painted it and put it back.  I had to lift up on the front of the engine with an engine hoist to give the pan room to clear the rear support.  I did not remove the engine mount bolts, there was enough flex to lift it a couple inches.  I also tilted the hitch (its basically a square) -  I only took the rear bolts (closest to front of coach) out of the hitch, loosened the front bolts and pushed the front of the hitch straight up as far as possible so the back of the hitch is as low as possible... these two things allowed me to slide the pan out. You only need 4-6 inches to clear the pickup tube with runs from the front shallow end of the pan to the deep end. I had no issues with the pan clearing at the rear (trans side). Hope this helps...


Oil Pan Replacement?
Charlie

I've thought about replacing my oil pan too, as it was dented in an inch or so by the first owner - drain bolt pushed up level with the surrounding square pan bottom. Obviously not an easy job as it would be on a normal vehicle. I've put off thinking about it until I saw your post. If you find out the best (easiest but safest) way to do it, please share, thanks ahead of time!


Oil Pan Replacement?
Speerfamily
2 minutes ago, Speerfamily said:

Assuming your rig is a side radiator... I just removed my pan and put a new pan gasket on it. I painted it and put it back.  I had to lift up on the front of the engine with an engine hoist to give the pan room to clear the rear support.  I did not remove the engine mount bolts, there was enough flex to lift it a couple inches.  I also tilted the hitch (its basically a square) -  I only took the rear bolts (closest to front of coach) out of the hitch, loosened the front bolts and pushed the front of the hitch straight up as far as possible so the back of the hitch is as low as possible... these two things allowed me to slide the pan out. You only need 4-6 inches to clear the pickup tube with runs from the front shallow end of the pan to the deep end. I had no issues with the pan clearing at the rear (trans side). Hope this helps...

On edit, I may have removed the one engine mount bolt in the front....and you could rent an engine hoist,,,there is just enough room to slide it....


Oil Pan Replacement?
cbr046

If you JB Weld it, and it doesn't fix the seeps, what have you lost?

- bob

 


IOTA ITS-50R
Tom Cherry
On 7/18/2021 at 11:51 AM, David Pratt said:

Another ATS to take into consideration is the SURGEGUARD Series of ATS/Surge Protection switches. The SurgeGuard 40250, 40350 and the 40450. These ATS switches combine the Transfer Switch and Surge Protection in one unit. They are a little pricey but offer great protection. These SURGEGUARD ATS Units are installed in most of the higher end Coaches such as PREVOST, NEWELL and FORETRAVEL. These SURGEGUARD Automatic Transfer Switch models are available with maximum spike current from 26,400A – 130,000A, and surge suppression from 2600 Joules – 3350 Joules.

The SURGEGUARD ATS Units are also Field Serviceable.

Here is some info and specs;

  • Transfers to generator power automatically when energized after 30 second delay (generator mode). When both shore and generator power are available , generator dominates after a 30 second delay. Once generator shuts down, shore power activates after 3 second delay.
  • Total electrical protection from faulty park power
  • Provides protection against:
    • Power surges
    • Open ground
    • Open neutral
    • Low (<102V) and high (>132V) voltage
    • Reverse polarity
    • Miswired pedestal
    • High and low frequency
  • Multi-mode surge suppression
  • RVC communications allows instant display of voltage, current, and fault conditions on an RVC compatible device
  • Indicator lights on front of ATS indicate presence of input power for L1 and L2
  • Optional remote power monitor LCD Display (Part number 40299 sold separately)
    • Displays voltage and amp draw (RMS)
    • Easy to navigate faults in plain English
  • 65A, FLA mechanical interlocking contactors
  • UL approved – UL1008 full transfer switch rating
  • UL/CUL listed
 

I stand corrected.  I did not know that the current production models of the SurgeGuard switches are field serviceable.  As David says....one has to make the call on value and such. Obviously installing ONE unit would be easier (or less costly if you are paying for it rather than DIY)...

The last prices that I saw for the LPT50BRD are now in the $225 range....  They were about $75 cheaper a few years ago.

The HW50C has come down.  They are in the $330 range. You need less than $20 of wiring and supplies to complete the installation...  Been there....done that.

I would suggest that one do a price comparison of the two SurgeGuards vs the combo of the ESCO and Progressive.  If you don't have the Alladin or the interface system, then add in the cost of the remote monitor so that you are comparing apples to apples.

Here are the specs on the HW50C for comparison

Product Features:

  • Over/Under Voltage Protection

  • Open Ground, Open Neutral & Reverse Polarity Detection

  • Accidental 240V Protection

  • Miswired Pedestal Indication

  • Surge Failure Indicator

  • Amperage Meter Display

  • Previous Error Code

  • A/C Frequency Protection

  • Time Delay (136 seconds)

  • Adjustable Time Delay

  • Thermally Protected

  • Remote Display w/Scrolling Digital Display

  • Field Serviceable 

  • UL Certified and Canadian Approved

  • Lifetime Warranty

Product Specs:

Surge Protection:

5-Mode / 3,580J / 88,000A max current spike

Response time: < 1 nanosecond (10⁻⁹ second)
Ratings: 50A / 120V/240V / 12,000W
Operating Temperatures: -40C to +105C
Data Cable: 14'
Product Dimensions: 9" W x 5" H x 4" D

Link to the Operating Manual....

https://98fc35b2-8b52-49c0-9df1-33107348b2e7.filesusr.com/ugd/439d5a_7e98aaa6242a4c798b32f2164c8e591e.pdf

NOW, there are choices.....and one has enough info to start down that path....BUT GET RID OF THE IOTA, otherwise, the conversation and decision making might have been a MOOT POINT.....

OR, best sceneario.....you ain't got AC or Genny power when you are in Tuscon and it is 115 dF.....but your MH is NOT a toasted marshmallow....


CB antenna replacement
Scott S

Try CB World at https://www.wearecb.com/. Send them the images that you posted, and they may be able to suggest a replacement.


Diplomat Duo Therm Heat pump problem
rwilliamsr42

To all who responded to this thread I thank you.  Today I spent some time of the roof of my coach cleaning and checking both AC's.  The rear which was the one that was only blowing hot air got my attention.  I removed the shroud and everything looked to be in good shape.  I used a small leaf blower and cleaned some of the debris, leaves, some acorns and gypsy moths and then tested the solenoid and it was OK.  I then used the technique that was recommended by my mobile RV repairman.  I had my wife turn on the A/C while I used the handle of my screw driver to beat on the reversing valve.  That worked, the unit is working well without any other problems.  Apparently the sticking reversing valve issue is a well know problem with this Duo-Therm Heatpump A/C.  I hope my experience will help others should they have the same problem.


Suggestions for New Tires
djkantanen

Yes, we had to put one on a year ago when road side assistance put on a Hurcules after a Lt front tire blow out.  Liked it so put all other 7 Hurcules on. First time out with all new it rode harder than old ones but after adjusting with a little less air rides great.  Took 2 weeks from order date to installation. They keep us informed as to who was going to install, ship date , etc.


Radiator Mount Picture
Jim Byrd

I'm in need of a picture of the location of the bottom rubber vibration isolation mounts for a 2004 Holiday Rambler Endeavor with Cummins 8.3 ISC engine.

I was recently rear ended while traveling in Texas and the radiator and fan were damaged, I had the radiator, fan an fan shroud repairs made in Texas and deferred the body work until I returned to my home state of Washington.  I'm now having the body word done and the body shop has informed me that the new radiator was installed without the bottom rubber isolation mounts. It looks that the isolation mounts were damaged in the collision and only the bottom portion of the mount remains.

Thanks for your assistance.

Jim 


EGT Gauge Added
CRY1942

Terry, yes, I have read of the sender coming apart and that was my greatest debate, but my shop indicated they had not seen this occur, certainly guess it is possible, time will tell and I will keep fingers crossed that all goes well.

As noted, my surprise was how quickly the EGT increased / decreased with throttle movement.

As VanWill52 noted, have no doubt under heavy load, climbing a mountain, the EGT can get pretty high, pretty quickly. But I thought the electronic (ISC) type engines would monitor fuel flow and EGT, but maybe not as closely one would think.

I read the two suggested article, appreciate the links. For me, I think 1200 is my comfort point and back off once there.

Thanks for the input, ya'll have a good day.


Diplomat Duo Therm Heat pump problem
Ivan K

Good part of the cause is that the reversing valve is installed vertically as opposed to horizontally in residential units that I have seen.


Diplomat Duo Therm Heat pump problem
rwilliamsr42

Now that you mention it that makes sense.  I also thought that the relay might just be to weak to complete the switch over.  But I do not know of a way to test for that.  I assumed that it was either good or bad.


Fuel sender
Steven

I am hoping someone that has changed a fuel sending unit in a Monaco can advise me if fuel tank must be removed. The company that sold me the sending unit said after removing the 4 screws on top of the tank the unit can be tilted to be removed. A local chassis dealer quoted me 3 hours labor to remove the fuel tank. Any suggestions?

 

Thanks,

Steve.


Radiator Mount Picture
cbr046

Is this what you're looking for?

image.thumb.png.769327d1212f477031d3b8985955e898.png

To the left of radiator is a rubber bumper.  Looks like it's supporting a frame. 

2003 Holiday Rambler Endeavor

- bob

 


Radiator Mount Picture
Jim Byrd

Thanks for you response.

Look like my 04 has a different design.

Jim


Radiator Mount Picture
cbr046

Hopefully I took the pic from the perspective you're thinking about . . . . from the rear, under the fender, just under the license plate.

- b


Fuel sender
redeye0315

Fuel tank WILL NOT need removed. Sending unit sits on top side of tank. When you remove the 4 screws as stated the sending unit is loose, then you can raise the unit out of the tank. As soon as you pop it loose, the sending unit that goes down into the tank is the diameter of a pencil and the hole is the size of the top of the sending unit (3"-4"?) This allows you to move the unit to one side and sort of lean it over and bring it out the top at an angle. I'd say if you have at least 6-8" of clearance above the tank you can manage it out without difficulty. I did min, it's not hard. The hardest part is keeping the wiring going where they're supposed to and locating the correct screws on top of the unit. There are more than 4 screws on top of the sending unit, make sure you're taking the correct 4 out to remove the unit.


Question On Replacing Ride Height Control Valve
redeye0315

I know the inherent dangers of doing so, chock the tires, drive it up on blocks, etc. New to me RV leaks down on driver side. Lately, I was under the rv adjusting the ride height and noticed the rear driver ride height control valve perpetually leaks air from the exhaust tube, so I bought a new one. My question - when I loosen the air lines going into the rear driver side ride height control valve, will the entire system deflate (all 4 corners) or just the rear corner bag?


Looking for some help, no power in coach
ncsteve

Everything was find this morning, got back and no power inside, no lights, no ac nothing. Checked incoming power and all good, no faults and 120v on both legs. Have 120v at main breaker. Is there something I should check next? The intellitec panel has no lights on. Does anyone know where that power comes from? 04 Monaco Knight. Thanks in advance for any assistance. 


Looking for some help, no power in coach
Dr4Film

You need to determine if you have no 12 VDC power or no 120 VAC power or both.

Let us know.


Looking for some help, no power in coach
ncsteve

You are correct, I have 120v at receptacles, microwave,  but no 12v lights and no ac. And the step works as well.

 

 


Fuel sender
Chuck B

Depends on the make and model of the coach.  On some coaches the tank is mounted between the frame rails, not side to side.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Looking for some help, no power in coach
redstickbill

Sounds like the battery disconnect (salesman switch) near the entrance door has been accidentally turned off, been there, done that.

Bill B 07 Dynasty


Radiator Mount Picture
Jim Byrd
1 hour ago, cbr046 said:

Hopefully I took the pic from the perspective you're thinking about . . . . from the rear, under the fender, just under the license plate.

- be radiator

The angle of your picture is just fine, but the rubber vibration damper are attached to the bottom of the horizontal member that the radiator sits on that is attached to the frame.

Jim


Looking for some help, no power in coach
ncsteve
12 minutes ago, redstickbill said:

Sounds like the battery disconnect (salesman switch) near the entrance door has been accidentally turned off, been there, done that.

Bill B 07 Dynasty

That acts/seems like what it is, but moving the switch up or down does not make a difference. Is is there a way to bypass that switch to double check?  Thanks folks for replying quickly.


Looking for some help, no power in coach
Dr4Film

If the Battery Cutoff Switch has not been accidentally turned off then the solenoid relay that the switch activates has failed and needs to be bypassed.


Fuel sender
Ray Davis

It's a Windsor so it should be same as mine.  Dan pretty much covered everything except you will need to change it from the pass side.  The big panel where the small fuel door is will need to open ( raise ).   The way to open it is to look under the edge, the panel is held closed by 2 small metal straps.  Remove a couple screws and it should lift up.  Prop it open with a stick, broom or what ever is handy.  The sender is over towards the middle on top of the tank.

Good luck


Looking for some help, no power in coach
ncsteve
4 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

If the Battery Cutoff Switch has not been accidentally turned off then the solenoid relay that the switch activates has failed and needs to be bypassed.

Any idea where this would be located? Or what it look like. Thanks


Looking for some help, no power in coach
Jester1

White Rogers Solenoid is what your looking for. I had same issue on our 2000 Dynasy. You can jump across the post temporarily to see which solenoid it is. Should be two near the salesman switches at the back of coach and there is additional ones up front that deal with just chassis related I believe. Make sure to replace with same voltage. 
 

Also a shout out to all on this site! I found threads that helped me figure hire it out.👍

 

73BEAEB7-35AD-42D5-AFDA-DF5979CCE761.png


Looking for some help, no power in coach
Jim Bob

I had this happen on my 95 Dynasty.  The solenoid should be on the firewall in the back engine bay under the bed.... at least that is where mine is.  If you have someone flip the switch back and forth in the front while you are back there, sometimes you can here it try to click.  I have had success lightly tapping on it to get it to engage.  After a while I just disconnected it as I could not train everyone not to hit it when they were carrying stuff through the doorway.


Looking for some help, no power in coach
ncsteve

Thanks everyone!  Mine is located in the electrical panel under the driver’s window. The 5 amp fuse was blown. So I figured easy fix, replace fuse. Nope! What was weird was when I unhooked the small purple wire, lights came on. To be on the safe side I just removed it and bolts the wires together. From the date on the btm it appears it had been changed before. Figure that is an issue that won’t be a problem down the road now

THANKS for everyone’s quick replies!! I appreciate it! We are in Ouray,CO until Friday when we head back to NC. I was sweating things for a minute lol

SteveA0AF7980-E76C-4287-8F4B-A208B040438F.thumb.jpeg.6c1adbdfb1660b9c481629a6092f69be.jpeg

8DCB33B8-62A7-4228-87FF-B5BFE9F68529.thumb.jpeg.6c465ce63313d56c4933e9e6026a3cbb.jpeg

526FE110-79C0-44CF-9725-11233DB78183.thumb.jpeg.3a6fabd52eebe34cb0cd4d076f716f6a.jpeg


Looking for some help, no power in coach
Jester1

Steve,

 Replace the solenoid as soon as you can. Solenoids are a form of circuit protection. The fact the fuse was blown is that there was a high draw somewhere ( aka a possible ground fault)

Ouray is a favorite place. Visit 2x a year.


Bast price on Koni shocks
rvtips

Where can I get the best price on Koni shocks?

2003 Roadmaster rr4r


Kongsberg Chassis Control Module CCM mx shop
Bob125

Well, problem is solved.  Thank you Frank for your input.

Just before certain parts of the CCM quit working, I had a Battery Disconnect relay go bad (some call this the salesman switch relay).  This is the second relay to go bad, so based on my research, a lot of people bypass the relay and not use the battery disconnect switch.  So, that's what I did.  I did not connect that certain parts of the CCM quit working right after that.  So, tonight I installed a new battery disconnect relay back in and the CCM is now all working.  I can't believe this.  How could connecting the battery directly and not going through the relay affect the CCM?

The only thing I can figure are the two white signal wires attached to the battery disconnect relay.  They are labeled solenoid open and solenoid closed.  Possibly because these two signal wires were not connected, the system detected a break in signal and caused certain parts to quit working.

Long story, but wanted to post in case future Monacoers that may have CCM trouble.

Thx, Bob...

IMG_0780.jpg


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