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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/492-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

ABS light
jacwjames
Electrical tech needed
Ray Davis
Load Shedding
tmw188
Dual Pane Windows
willbo777
Friction door hinges.
Ray Davis
Kicking around a live-in Coach
Ivylog
Kicking around a live-in Coach
Dr4Film
Load Shedding
Ivylog
Obnoxious Beeping Alarm
Dr4Film
Friction door hinges.
Scotty Hutto
Friction door hinges.
FishAR
Load Shedding
Dr4Film
Electrical tech needed
Ron Jones
Electrical tech needed
JOHN McCLURE
Electrical tech needed
Tom Cherry
Dual Pane Windows
OhReally
Load Shedding
OhReally
Electrical tech needed
Ron Jones
Kicking around a live-in Coach
JDCrow
Electrical tech needed
Tom Cherry
Load Shedding
Rick A
Load Shedding
Dr4Film
Radiator Mount Picture
Scotty Hutto
Load Shedding
tmw188
Spark when testing batteries
Gary M
Load Shedding
Dr4Film
Spark when testing batteries
John Haggard
Spark when testing batteries
Ray Davis
Load Shedding
Rick A
Spark when testing batteries
Gary M
Spark when testing batteries
John Haggard
Spark when testing batteries
Gary M
Load Shedding
tmw188
Kicking around a live-in Coach
Ivylog
Friction door hinges.
Ivylog
Spark when testing batteries
Ivan K
Kicking around a live-in Coach
Ray Davis
Load Shedding
Dr4Film
Friction door hinges.
Ray Davis
Spark when testing batteries
John Haggard
Load Shedding
tmw188
Load Shedding
Dr4Film
Spark when testing batteries
Gary Cole
Load Shedding
tmw188
Load Shedding
jacwjames
Load Shedding
Dr4Film
Load Shedding
jacwjames
Load Shedding
tmw188

New Posts

2000 Dynasty Dash AC Compressor: not kicking on
Mary & Glenn

The best part about the DIY mindset is you continually learn new skills and information. I have always pursued this mindset because when I do pay someone else to do a job I typically regret it and feel that I could have done the job myself at a lower cost and often times a higher quality end result.

This effort did not end with success in getting the AC working. It turned out that the vacuum pump loaner from O'Reilly Auto Parts was broken but that was determined only after 2 trips to my small town hardware store to try to fix it. On top of that I only realized once I dug into the whole process that the "parts professional" at O'Reilly had no understanding of what he was sending me out the door with and the manifold gauge set did not include the proper adapter for the small AC recharge cans.

I did gain lots of knowledge though. I understand all of the system components of a vehicle AC and where they are located, and I understand the process for swapping out the receiver/drier, low pressure switch as well as the process for checking vacuum and refilling properly.

Living remote has lots of wonderful benefits and I hope I never have to move from here... but one of the major downsides is that we don't have nearby conveniences and the travel time and expense get to those conveniences. O'Reilly at least did the right thing and credited me back everything including the vacuum pump oil that they said was non-refundable. They will be sending the pump back to the warehouse and getting a new one. We depart this weekend for a short trip so I don't have time to screw around anymore... it is 4 hours of back and forth travel to get to Cañon City to pickup and return the tools so I'll wait for another time when I can incorporate it with another run to make it more efficient.

Thank you all for your help and knowledge... and a silent shout out to my friend Van Williams who saw my post and talked me through a lot of this. That man is an incredible wealth of knowledge and always happy to share. So actually, this project has been a real success... I now feel comfortable getting the proper replacement parts and doing the job properly next time. You guys are all great, God bless you!


ABS light
jacwjames

Glad it worked, considering the board is obsolete you really didn't have many choices. 


Electrical tech needed
Ray Davis
14 hours ago, Ron Jones said:

Reply to Tom Cherry...

I don't know how to reply just to you/your question but two problems exist... One, I lost EVERYTHING on my computer a couple of years ago so I have nothing. Two, I am not sure of the name nor location of the place that did this for me. It MAY have been Cummins but not sure today. Sorry. My best recollection is that the replacement board was about 3 x 5 inches and about $1,000.

Hi Ron,   do you remember where the board was located?


Load Shedding
tmw188

So we took our coach out for its maiden voyage and one of the things I wanted to check real life operation was if I truly had load shedding. I have 50a at home and wanted to try it plugged into 30a thinking maybe that’s what it would take to get this display to come alive? 
Well it didn’t so maybe I’m missing something or I don’t have it. I wouldn’t think the display would be installed and not wired in? The inverter/charger  controller steps down from 30a to 5a I think it is. The Load Meter doesn’t come on at all no matter how far down I drop the setting on the inverter/charger controller. 
 

A884CF12-12B0-486E-8584-7A489C3647A4.jpeg

09973F72-92F9-4A17-ABF6-3FA78B00C3E3.jpeg


Dual Pane Windows
willbo777

I would suggest just for comparison, rather than run the dash AC, try turning the selector to off.  That way no air comes in through the heating/AC dash system.  It makes a huge difference in our coach.  Now when it becomes too hot for the dash air I start the gen run the 3 roof AC's and shut off the system selector.


Friction door hinges.
Ray Davis

I think these hinges have been mentioned on here previously, but has anyone tried them?   If they preform as promised it seems like a great modification,  and only 32.95

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Lippert-Friction-Hinge-Kit-Black-For-LCI-p/2020102629.htm

2020102629-2S.jpg?v-cache=1608273257     No need to remove existing hinge


Kicking around a live-in Coach
Ivylog

We almost bought a 04 Patriot…bought a 04 Dynasty instead which we sold to our son after 14 great years so it’s still in the family for many more years. 
Brochure says “Roadmaster M10S–Series Chassis” and the only difference from a S-10 I can see is the house structure is aluminum bolted to the chassis… not as strong in a rollover. A S-10 rig will show the all steel framing in the brochures. I would rate the aluminum house a negative but not a deal breaker.

While on negatives but not deal breakers , the Emergency Window over the head of the bed is colder and noisy than one without a window. In the Dynasty I added a hinged metal grate over the window so we could recline against it to read and watch TV.

I like that the bedroom is more open…. extra cabinet next to the bed and double sliding doors into the bath area making the bedroom more open feeling. I rarely used the bedroom during the day with our Dynasty and currently I’m typing this in the bed (it’s 7:30 here) as the Nav BR is very open with a larger cabinet and the 2nd sink in the BR area.

In the current inflated market it’s hard to say what it’s worth. Helped our daughter buy a 06 45’ Navigator, couple months ago with a DD60 engine, 45K miles for $110K. Been a good rig with no major $$$ problems…put two 315 tires on the front. Had fairly new batteries, new carpet, a new 600D AquaHot and it was only 100 miles away. Fortunately put a deposit on it on the 2nd day it was listed as if they didn’t buy it I would and flip it. 
I like the big windows Monaco used in these years… makes dry camping easier as you get good airflow. Not sure the tall windows in the LR open 50% and if the awning is big enough to shade the bottoms?

Good luck and a 05 doesn’t have the multiplex system…a goog thing.

3DF3F57F-81C3-4E6A-AC67-42EC303EA383.png


Kicking around a live-in Coach
Dr4Film

I spent the better part of a year between 02-03 researching for a diesel coach to live in Full-Time. I read a lot, went to RV shows and walked through hundreds of coaches, went to RV sales lots to look at all brands and models. I also set a price window of what I could afford.

After doing all of that I had narrowed it down to a 2002 Monaco Windsor due to the chassis (Semi-Monocoque) , amount of inside and outside storage plus the price point. However I wasn't set on a specific floor-plan. I then got on the Internet to search all over the country for what was available. Found a PST floor-plan in Tampa FL and after striking a deal the owner sent me an email that he had sold it over the weekend locally. Got back on the Internet and immediately found one in Dinuba CA which was only a 3 hour drive from where I was living at the time. After viewing it and driving it I knew that this was the one. The rest is history!

I lived Full-Time in that coach for almost 14 years and traveled around the country 7 of those years towing a 30 foot Pace Cargo trailer behind us with everything we owned. Still own the coach with no plans to change or upgrade for now. We are now Part-Time RVer's but could easily go back to Full-Time RVing in THIS coach if we had to as I really like the RV lifestyle. We now spend 6 months in Florida at our winter beach house then another 5-6 months in the coach up north someplace Workamping or traveling around the country or spending the summer in Alaska with my kids and grand-kids.

Moral of this story, try to choose your last coach FIRST otherwise you will be spending TONS of money trying to find the "right" one for you.


Load Shedding
Ivylog

On a 02, load shedding is accomplished by manually turning things off.


Obnoxious Beeping Alarm
Dr4Film

Low Air


Friction door hinges.
Scotty Hutto
1 hour ago, Ray Davis said:

I think these hinges have been mentioned on here previously, but has anyone tried them?   If they preform as promised it seems like a great modification,  and only 32.95

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Lippert-Friction-Hinge-Kit-Black-For-LCI-p/2020102629.htm

2020102629-2S.jpg?v-cache=1608273257     No need to remove existing hinge

I reached out to Lippert to ask about fitment on a Monaco coach (since the doors aren’t made by Lippert). Long story short I got a non-answer from their Tech Support, which was more or less “there’s no reason they shouldn’t fit, but we haven’t tried it and can’t guarantee it will fit. Let us know if it works…”

They fit in the spaces between your existing hinges, so the install seems like it would be relatively easy. 
 

I haven’t tried them yet, but may… after I get my current list of projects worked down some. 😂


Friction door hinges.
FishAR

I have friction hinges on my 2019 Keystone Montana High Country 384BR.

I hate them. They don't work that great if the wind is above 10 mph, they make an awful squeaking noise. I've oiled them, doesn't help.

The only thing that does help is to pour water on them and that works for an hour or so.

I actually considered replacing them with regular hinges somehow until I decided to sell the unit and move to the Monaco.


Load Shedding
Dr4Film

Your Intellitec Display should be lit up when hooked to any shore power or when the generator is running. It will not display anything when your Inverter is supplying power to the coach using the House Batteries.

Questions-

What does the display show when hooked to 50 amp shore power?

What does the display show when the generator is running?


Electrical tech needed
Ron Jones

Try this...  My wife remembers this board as the ECM (Electronic Control Module) but I can't verify that. I was NOT in the coach when they replaced it so don't know where it was located.


Electrical tech needed
JOHN McCLURE

I had a cummins authorized mechanic replace my ecm in Arcada Ca. quite an education, {$3,500}. After 1000 miles, no cruse control  or pac break. Took it to cummins mechanic in Phoenix, they said replace the TPS {$ 600}. Still no cruse {off and on}. After 2 years of cruse and pac break working off and on I took it to Sacramento Truck Center who specialize in in motorhomes {hard to find those that do this but be sure you do}. Motorhomes have a significantly different electronic engineering and the average cummings mechanic will not have the specialized experience which is why they all hate to work on our rigs. Over 20 years I have maybe 6 or 7 cummings mechanics work on my rig {only electronics as I am a licensed aircraft mechanic and do everything else myself } Sac has a mechanic that has specialized in motorhomes for 20 plus years, the best I have seen.-- John M  PS, problem, bad ground intermit malfunction, hard to find.  


Electrical tech needed
Tom Cherry
28 minutes ago, Ron Jones said:

Try this...  My wife remembers this board as the ECM (Electronic Control Module) but I can't verify that. I was NOT in the coach when they replaced it so don't know where it was located.

Ron,

If it was the ECM, then the cost of a "Cummins Remanufactured" ECM in 2020 was around $1000 - $1200 and if it was a "plug and play", then the labor should have been around $400 - $500. A buddy had one fail and Frank McElroy provided the backup program. It was done in Orlando and the bill was around $2100. If he had opted for a NEW ECM would have increased to over $3000

If you can pick your brain or perhaps the DW (they remember $$ for MH....trust me), then that might be of benefit....assuming you have no issues with discussing $$.

If so....then disregard this....

Thanks.


Dual Pane Windows
OhReally

Bob, if you use the engine (dash) ac on recirculate you can get cooling without letting warm outside air in. Also, I close all vents in the back of the coach and over the slides. That way you will feel the cool air coming from the vents over driver and passenger heads.

If you are like me and don't often use the generator, traveling is a great time to exercise it. You probably won't notice any impact to your fuel mileage and it keeps generator in top shape. A generator needs to work regularly under a load to remove accumulated moisture from the generating coils and short spurts of usage while in a campground is typically not enough.


Load Shedding
OhReally

Todd, you should also note whether the "gen set" lamp is lit on the load shed control. The light will come on whenever the generator is supplying power to the coach.

This signal comes from the generator on a unique pin located in a gang connector right near the front of the generator. Mine lost this connection and it caused some weird things to happen in the coach. You can disconnect the gang connector at the generator (with generator off of course) clean the connections and reconnect if required.


Electrical tech needed
Ron Jones

More "Non Help"...  I do remember the shop dropping the price to about "half" since they had failed to find the problem previously. I THINK I paid about $500 for the board (with their discount) and if so, that would pretty closely match with what you said.


Kicking around a live-in Coach
JDCrow
2 hours ago, Ivylog said:

We almost bought a 04 Patriot…bought a 04 Dynasty instead which we sold to our son after 14 great years so it’s still in the family for many more years. 
Brochure says “Roadmaster M10S–Series Chassis” and the only difference from a S-10 I can see is the house structure is aluminum bolted to the chassis… not as strong in a rollover. A S-10 rig will show the all steel framing in the brochures. I would rate the aluminum house a negative but not a deal breaker.

While on negatives but not deal breakers , the Emergency Window over the head of the bed is colder and noisy than one without a window. In the Dynasty I added a hinged metal grate over the window so we could recline against it to read and watch TV.

I like that the bedroom is more open…. extra cabinet next to the bed and double sliding doors into the bath area making the bedroom more open feeling. I rarely used the bedroom during the day with our Dynasty and currently I’m typing this in the bed (it’s 7:30 here) as the Nav BR is very open with a larger cabinet and the 2nd sink in the BR area.

In the current inflated market it’s hard to say what it’s worth. Helped our daughter buy a 06 45’ Navigator, couple months ago with a DD60 engine, 45K miles for $110K. Been a good rig with no major $$$ problems…put two 315 tires on the front. Had fairly new batteries, new carpet, a new 600D AquaHot and it was only 100 miles away. Fortunately put a deposit on it on the 2nd day it was listed as if they didn’t buy it I would and flip it. 
I like the big windows Monaco used in these years… makes dry camping easier as you get good airflow. Not sure the tall windows in the LR open 50% and if the awning is big enough to shade the bottoms?

Good luck and a 05 doesn’t have the multiplex system…a goog thing.

3DF3F57F-81C3-4E6A-AC67-42EC303EA383.png

I appreciate your post. When I first started the thread I could only find an 2006 Patriot brochure, I found the 2005 30 mins later. So I misquoted the S10. The 2006 differs from the 2005 in the structure, like you mentioned.

I might hold off Then on this one and shoot for a year or 2 newer to get the steel semi-monocoque chassis. I’ve also really been looking at country coach for the live-in (thanks Scotty). And they are still in play. We group up here where Beavers are made and always dreamed of owning one, so I have a soft spot for them. 


Electrical tech needed
Tom Cherry
8 minutes ago, Ron Jones said:

More "Non Help"...  I do remember the shop dropping the price to about "half" since they had failed to find the problem previously. I THINK I paid about $500 for the board (with their discount) and if so, that would pretty closely match with what you said.

I am pretty sure on my memory of the prices....as I would have made the same decision....  A remanufactured (Cummins Certified) ECM was above $1000.... 

Thanks.....now the OP will have to determine WHAT to do.

As an INSIGHT for the OP....  My buddy drove the MH from a dealer a little further south late one afternoon. He had it stored and was having some "coach" work done there. Had NO issues driving it maybe a few hours. Then camped ON in Orlando and BINGO....it would NOT start or run the next day. Cummins sent out a mobile tech and he pronounce the ECM DOA. They called the last dealer in NC that had serviced it...  Was past a year or so and the dealer did not, per Cummins Protocols, have a copy of the ECM program in their files. BUMMER>>>  He called our buddy, who was the GM for a HR dealership for 20 odd years. First words were....Call Tom. Fortunately, our Mr. Wizard of the Parts List had a comp of a similar unit. 

The Cummins Tech spoke to both myself and Frank. He said he could "Reinstall" the Engine Management protocols, but it would be "Guess and BY GOLLY" as to the interface with Monaco's additions such as the Cruise and God only knows what else. Frank, I think, spent more time with him...

Bottom line. The ECM download worked like a charm. The Cummins tech did some tweaking as there were some slight differences in the engine management routines....but the Monaco supplied interfaces, like the TCM and Cruise and VIP wheel and such worked great.  WOW....what a relief....

SO....to the OP....MAKE SURE that you have, ON YOUR COMPUTER, a copy of the ECM....if it FAILS....it is a fiasco.....  Just a word from the wise and also from one that has had to help a buddy recover from such....

 


Load Shedding
Rick A
1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

Your Intellitec Display should be lit up when hooked to any shore power or when the generator is running. It will not display anything when your Inverter is supplying power to the coach using the House Batteries.

Questions-

What does the display show when hooked to 50 amp shore power?

What does the display show when the generator is running?

My 2005 Diplomat shows the loads when the generator is on BUT does not lite up when hooked to 50 amp shore power. Is this correct? 


Load Shedding
Dr4Film
4 minutes ago, Rick A said:

My 2005 Diplomat shows the loads when the generator is on BUT does not lite up when hooked to 50 amp shore power. Is this correct? 

Rick, I am currently on 50 amp shore power and have been since May 7th. The display should have the 50 amp light lit up along with all 6 status lights along the right side.


Radiator Mount Picture
Scotty Hutto

Jim,

if memory serves me correctly, your 04 Endeavor is essentially the same coach as my 06 Diplomat. Here are all of the radiator mounts from my coach. Is you use the part number in the left column, you can find these parts on http://parts.revgroup.com 

 

417B42AC-3541-44EF-91DA-213F9DD95AD5.jpeg


Load Shedding
tmw188
2 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Your Intellitec Display should be lit up when hooked to any shore power or when the generator is running. It will not display anything when your Inverter is supplying power to the coach using the House Batteries.

Questions-

What does the display show when hooked to 50 amp shore power?

What does the display show when the generator is running?

That’s what I thought. There is nothing being displayed at all. So that being known, I’ll have to look at the wire diagram. 

3 hours ago, Ivylog said:

On a 02, load shedding is accomplished by manually turning things off.

Well I can do that and I am use to managing loads on my other coach if needed by monitoring the remote display on the P.I. display. I wouldn't think that on my ‘02 it would have the display monitor if it wasn’t wired? 


Spark when testing batteries
Gary M

Got my coach out of shop yesterday. Since it sat there for two weeks I decided to just check volts in house and engine batteries with my VOM. First ground lead then positive and got a spark on both sets. Is the problem my VOM or is it something else? 
Tried testing a truck battery and the VOM did not register. So its now either dead or maybe fuse inside if there is one.

Cheap Cen-Tech VOM by the way but dont want to use my good VOM and screw it up too.

Any help appreciated.


Load Shedding
Dr4Film
26 minutes ago, tmw188 said:

That’s what I thought. There is nothing being displayed at all. So that being known, I’ll have to look at the wire diagram.

Most likely you have a failed board unless the the 5 amp power fuse has blown which is on the board. You could also try resetting the board by disconnecting power to the board for a few minutes.


Spark when testing batteries
John Haggard
23 minutes ago, Gary M said:

Got my coach out of shop yesterday. Since it sat there for two weeks I decided to just check volts in house and engine batteries with my VOM. First ground lead then positive and got a spark on both sets. Is the problem my VOM or is it something else? 
Tried testing a truck battery and the VOM did not register. So its now either dead or maybe fuse inside if there is one.

Cheap Cen-Tech VOM by the way but dont want to use my good VOM and screw it up too.

Any help appreciated.

So what is your question???

At a hundred to three hundred dollars a batterie, I wouldn't use anything but a decent meter 

You can make one for a few $$$s with parts from an auto parts store.

Or buy real nice ones for not many $$$s

Call triple A if you don't want to use your meter 

 

 


Spark when testing batteries
Ray Davis

Is it a digital meter with a screen for the numbers?   I imagine it is,  anyway the only way the meter should spark is if it's on the wrong setting,  probably set for amps.   If it was, that probably ruined the meter or at least a fuse inside.


Load Shedding
Rick A
1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

Rick, I am currently on 50 amp shore power and have been since May 7th. The display should have the 50 amp light lit up along with all 6 status lights along the right side.

That’s my status as well. It doesn’t show the amp draw like it does when I am on the generator. If my shore owner is less than 50amp it shows me what I am drawing so I can load shed manually. (very technical, haha,  switch of the least important appliance! 


Spark when testing batteries
Gary M
22 minutes ago, John Haggard said:

So what is your question???

At a hundred to three hundred dollars a batterie, I wouldn't use anything but a decent meter 

You can make one for a few $$$s with parts from an auto parts store.

Or buy real nice ones for not many $$$s

Call triple A if you don't want to use your meter 

 

 

Sorry my question was in the middle of the post.

Could problem be batteries or VOM which is causing spark. It didn’t spark when I tested truck batts. Why would it only spark on coach batts?

4 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

Is it a digital meter with a screen for the numbers?   I imagine it is,  anyway the only way the meter should spark is if it's on the wrong setting,  probably set for amps.   If it was, that probably ruined the meter or at least a fuse inside.

It was set on 20 DCV. It sparks on coach batts but not truck batteries.

image.jpg


Spark when testing batteries
John Haggard

Turn your battery switches off.

Turn your inverter off.

 

Remove the ground wire from the batteries. 

Let sit for 30 to 60 minutes without any charge.

 

Then re test and see what happens 


Spark when testing batteries
Gary M

Well not sure what happened but my good VOM doesn’t have a problem with checking batteries. 12.7 engine, 12.4 house. Fixed my own issue I guess. Human error????


Load Shedding
tmw188
4 hours ago, Ivylog said:

 

I hope that display board pops out easily with a putty knife. I’ll look thru my case of paperwork and see if there is something in there on it. I’ll then check for that fuse. 


Kicking around a live-in Coach
Ivylog

JD ^^^ said what I was implying… the all steel S-10 has to be more ridged and safer, even in a head on accident. May also be why the S-10 doesn’t need any handling improvements.

We actually owned 2 Beavers, briefly before buying a 04 42’ Dynasty to get 4 slides, for half timing. Made the mistake of buying into 36’ was the max public CGs… didn’t take long to figure out that’s BS. During the summer we stay mainly in Public CGs that do not take reservations.

Currently in  a Private CG parked next to our daughter that has not figured out the dry camping thing although there are 4 of them that take longer showers than what a 100 gallon tank will support for 5-7 days that we normally go before resupplying.

We have stayed a couple miles up the road in a Forest Service CG that surprisingly, has several sites we could get into even on this Friday afternoon…rarely do we try finding a site on Friday. Couple summers ago we went into S Lake Tahoe on Labor Day, without reservations, getting into our first choice of CGs. NO, not on Friday but on Monday when the working folks have to go home.

My point for FT (or half T) a big rig does dry camping well, without paying $50+ for a spot to park.


Friction door hinges.
Ivylog

After 16 years I had to take the the OEM arm off and beat the center pivot to tighten it up. Previously, every 5-6 years I had to bend the arm that sticks out to increase the friction. May only last another 7-8 years before needing to replace the the pivot if pounding on it doesn’t work.


Spark when testing batteries
Ivan K

Wrong comment removed 


Kicking around a live-in Coach
Ray Davis
21 hours ago, JDCrow said:

We currently reside in a Alpine 5th wheel and feel the floor plan while great when we were vacationing in it, is cramped for everyday living

For the price of an 05 Patriot that may sit stationary, couldn't you get a really nice and roomy 5th wheel?     Or do you need 2 motor homes?    His & hers?


Load Shedding
Dr4Film
1 hour ago, Rick A said:

That’s my status as well. It doesn’t show the amp draw like it does when I am on the generator. If my shore owner is less than 50amp it shows me what I am drawing so I can load shed manually. (very technical, haha,  switch of the least important appliance! 

The display will NOT show any amp draw while on 50 amp shore power or generator as both of those supply plenty of amps for the entire coach. However, it does show amp draw when on shore power LESS than 50 amps.

55 minutes ago, tmw188 said:

I hope that display board pops out easily with a putty knife. I’ll look thru my case of paperwork and see if there is something in there on it. I’ll then check for that fuse. 

You do NOT need a putty knife to remove the Intellitec EMS Control Board. It is located behind the brown circuit breaker Intellitec cover panel. You have to remove the cover panel to expose the control board. It simply pulls out from its holder. There are some cables that need to be disconnected to completely remove it. The 5 amp fuse is on that control board.


Friction door hinges.
Ray Davis

I've done my share of pounding on that door arm myself.   Mine is working pretty good right now but it'll need pounding or bending again eventually.                                Friction hinges on various devices seem to be the cats meow lately.


Spark when testing batteries
John Haggard
33 minutes ago, Gary M said:

Well not sure what happened but my good VOM doesn’t have a problem with checking batteries. 12.7 engine, 12.4 house. Fixed my own issue I guess. Human error????

Is that reading during charge 🤔

If so.

It won't tell you the health of the batteries. 

Just the charge they are receiving 


Load Shedding
tmw188
19 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

You do NOT need a putty knife to remove the Intellitec EMS Control Board. It is located behind the brown circuit breaker Intellitec cover panel. You have to remove the cover panel to expose the control board. It simply pulls out from its holder. There are some cables that need to be disconnected to completely remove it. The 5 amp fuse is on that control board.

Hmm? Ok I’ll look at it again, but it is flush mounted with a trim ring and I assume it snaps into that trim ring looking at the photo, you say no?


Load Shedding
Dr4Film

Todd, you are NOT comprehending what I am posting!

Go back an read my post slowly and follow my directions.

On edit, I added three photos, one of the Intellitec Circuit Breaker Brown Cover Panel, one with the cover removed exposing the control board and one of the display showing what it looks like with the Generator running.

Intellitec EMS Panel-02.JPG

Intellitec EMS Panel-03.jpg

Intellitec EMS Display.jpg


Spark when testing batteries
Gary Cole

Gary, the spark indicated that current somehow flowed in your meter test circuit. You probably blew the typical 10 amp fuse in the meter. Easy to replace. The truth about most all handheld digital multimeters is that they all use the same type of transistor which probably cost about a nickel in bulk lots. I once checked a $30.00 Harbor Freight meter against a $5000.00 test bench instrument and found that they agreed to 1 and 2 significant digits ( the resolution limit of the cheap meter) when measuring the 3 basic functions.  An insignificant difference giving what most people use a meter for. What one should look for in an inexpensive meter is one with a button, usually labeled REL, which is used to zero out resistance in the internal circuit and the test leads,  Which in turn compensates for cheap leads, rotary dials, and other assorted things. I've seen $60.00 meters with this function. 

 


Load Shedding
tmw188

Ok yes, I wasn’t at the coach and was focused on the display board I posted when referencing the use of a putty knife. You showing the breaker panel helps clear that up. I see what appears to be the fuse you are referencing? I’m heading over there now to look and I have extra fuses onboard. I’ll check it out and get back-thanks. 

 

C2B7E2FE-436C-4EE8-A387-FB21E19ED7C8.png


Load Shedding
jacwjames

Make sure all the breakers are on (except the block heater, that can stay off).  In my case if the Washer/Dryer Breaker is off the load display doesn't show anything. 

If it still isn't lite up with all the breakers on I'd check the fuse.  If fuse is good you can try and reset the system by disconnecting the shore power, shut off both 12 volt disconnect, pull the fuse and wait 15 minutes.  If that doesn't work contact M&M Electronics, they helped trouble shoot mine when lightening took it out, I ended up having to replace.  The system you have may be obsolete and you'll have to upgrade to a newer board and load meter, that's what I had to do. 


Load Shedding
Dr4Film

To be completely transparent there is a Jumper Position on the board which allows the EMS Control Board to shed devices when using the Generator. That's when I assume that the display will show the amount of amps being used and what devices if any that are powered up or have been shed,

This is all explained in detail in the Intellitec EMS Owners manual.


Load Shedding
jacwjames

There is a generator sense wire going to the board and if the generator is running it will show amps but will not shed any loads.  At least once a year I will run the generator at maximum load, +60 amps to give it a good work out, I watch the load meter and keep adding load till I reach the desired amount, usually both AC, a small heater and toaster oven get me to where I want to be.

The only time it sheds is if you are connected to a 30/20 amp circuit, it will show the amperage being used and if you exceed 30 amps it will start shedding. 


Control Module for Dometic Sealand Toilet
Yoaks5

I wanted to give Paul a shout out.  Our toilet a magnum opus stopped working. Of course this was just days before we were set to leave on a trip. I PM Paul and he got back to me in a few hours. He helped to diagnose the problem and made a special trip the next morning to next day air the new board to me. 

It was easy to install with straight forward instructions and had me up at flushing again in just a few minutes. 

Thanks again Paul! You saved our trip. 


Load Shedding
tmw188

Ok the fuse is good 3a. I also found these two multi connectors unplugged no notes on why it was left unplugged  so I plugged them back in. Started the genny and still no display. I’ll have to pull the display later if it continues to lead me down that rd. It’s over 100deg in the coach right now.  In the meantime I’ll price out a new display. I have a feeling it may have been determined it was bad and that’s why it’s unplugged. My guess would be the smaller of the two connectors which is jacketed in a gray sleeve is the display wiring? 

AC2F2B93-2D8A-406A-B1AD-DC510199A1B6.jpeg

237A5378-61A2-49D7-A5DE-B3AAD43BC1BE.jpeg


Spark when testing batteries
Rikadoo

Perhaps, looking at your picture if you had your red lead in the amp hole rather than the voltage hole that could be a issue


Side view cameras
Mylksy59

Tim at RV Cams is the man to talk to.


Load Shedding
tmw188

Pages 11-1in the Service Manual trouble shoots the system and what I’m experiencing. Again I have a feeling since it’s been unplugged it may have been determined at some point the Board or the Display is bad and just left unplugged. May have been too costly and not used enough or never used at all by one of the previous two owners to repair. 


Load Shedding
jacwjames

From your picture it looks like the EMS board has already been bypassed.  If all the circuits work with 50 amp and 30 amp then you will have to monitor what you are using and control the total load manually.


Load Shedding
tmw188
3 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

From your picture it looks like the EMS board has already been bypassed.  If all the circuits work with 50 amp and 30 amp then you will have to monitor what you are using and control the total load manually.

Where are you seeing that bypass? 


Load Shedding
jacwjames

There should be a wire running from each breaker to a relay on the circuit board and then a wire from each relay to the individual appliance (AC, Water Heater, Washer/Dryer).  It looks like you have wire nuts connecting wires together>> meaning the board has been bypassed. 

I did the same thing when my board crapped out. 


Load Shedding
tmw188
6 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

There should be a wire running from each breaker to a relay on the circuit board and then a wire from each relay to the individual appliance (AC, Water Heater, Washer/Dryer).  It looks like you have wire nuts connecting wires together>> meaning the board has been bypassed. 

I did the same thing when my board crapped out. 

Yes I noticed the wire nuts. That maybe explains my theory. I can provide a full view picture of that panel revealing more tomorrow. 


Load Shedding
jacwjames

You might try taking one circuit (wires connected together) and attach it to your board and see if it works.  It would test whether the board is good or bad.  If it works try another. 

On my coach the shedding order is Water Heater, Rear AC, Washer Dryer, Front AC.  Water Heater sheds first. 

My EMS was the 750 model, which is now obsolete.  I upgraded to the 760 model, but that also required a new load meter and wiring harnesses.  I bought it from M&M Electronics as a package. 


Mobley turns off after about 30 minutes.
engine103

Okay, I've been laughed at before but, mine would also shut down after 20 minutes if just sitting on the desk top. An occasional shake would wake it up for another 20 minutes then off again, But if driving and the Mobley was laying on the counter top, it would never go to sleep, vibration keeping it awake? So just for the heck of it, I taped it to a small fan, turned the fan on low and it stays connected 24/7. I've been told on another RV forum that there is nothing inside the Mobley that would shake it awake and that the fan had nothing to do with it's staying on. As they say, works for me!

IMG_6146.JPG


Side view cameras
woodylmiller

I'll check RV Cams.  I called my credit card company today to dispute the charges with Tadi.  Been a week with no response from them.  I had informed them yesterday by phone and email that I would do that if no one contacted me by today.  I hope this will get their attention and I can return the 3 right side cameras.  I did look at RV Cams, and yes they are more money, but, if I can get the cameras I need I can continue on with my "simple" mod on the monitor and cameras.  We head south in less than two months and I need to get these simple tasks finished.

Woody Miller

09 Dynasty Regal IV


Load Shedding
tmw188

I’ll look into that wiring work around to get familiar with it. 


water valve in bay; backflow valve failed
ERNIEMA

Hi .. I think the backflow valve in the componemt in the bay where I connect my hose to add fresh water to my water tank or directly to the water system has failed.  Where can I get a replacement? 2001 Diplomat pdq  40 ft

Ernie Maier

erniema@aol.com

248 789-5808


Spark when testing batteries
Gary M
6 hours ago, Gary Cole said:

Gary, the spark indicated that current somehow flowed in your meter test circuit. You probably blew the typical 10 amp fuse in the meter. Easy to replace. The truth about most all handheld digital multimeters is that they all use the same type of transistor which probably cost about a nickel in bulk lots. I once checked a $30.00 Harbor Freight meter against a $5000.00 test bench instrument and found that they agreed to 1 and 2 significant digits ( the resolution limit of the cheap meter) when measuring the 3 basic functions.  An insignificant difference giving what most people use a meter for. What one should look for in an inexpensive meter is one with a button, usually labeled REL, which is used to zero out resistance in the internal circuit and the test leads,  Which in turn compensates for cheap leads, rotary dials, and other assorted things. I've seen $60.00 meters with this function. 

 

Ya know I appreciate all comments but what ever I did all is well including my cheap VOM meter. I checked it with engine running to se out put of alternator. I checked it with gen running  to see charge rate. Checked it with all off. 

4 hours ago, Rikadoo said:

Perhaps, looking at your picture if you had your red lead in the amp hole rather than the voltage hole that could be a issue

I agree but what u see is how it was.

4 hours ago, Rikadoo said:

Perhaps, looking at your picture if you had your red lead in the amp hole rather than the voltage hole that could be a issue

It is in volt hole. Other above is amps.


Spark when testing batteries
John Haggard
11 minutes ago, Gary M said:

Ya know I appreciate all comments but what ever I did all is well including my cheap VOM meter. I checked it with engine running to se out put of alternator. I checked it with gen running  to see charge rate. Checked it with all off. 

I agree but what u see is how it was.

It is in volt hole. Other above is amps.

Right on Gary 


water valve in bay; backflow valve failed
Mike Wahl

Erine

i just want to check, are you having an issue where when you run your water pump it pumps water out onto the ground from the city water connection?


If so, just had the similar issue on my 2001 signature. I went to the local pumping supply house and picked up a check valve and replace it. I had to replace a short pick of pex when I did it. Here is what my old valve looked like. I think I paid around $15.00 for the new one. Simple to install.

B00CEAFC-8EC5-4EDD-8D52-1734E23BEDC7.jpeg


Obnoxious Beeping Alarm
cbr046

Sometimes it would take off for a few bleeps when setting the parking brake, but it behaved itself most of the day..  Definitely low air alert (even w 120 psi in both tanks). 

Bad sensor

- bob


water valve in bay; backflow valve failed
Ray Davis

 Ernie,  Mine has a Swan valve    https://swanindustries.com/collections/retail-customer  You can probably match your valve on their site.

 You don't say what yours is doing but you may not need a valve.

 When mine was acting up, water would pump out of the hose connection.  I found a piece of rubber lodged inside the check valve mounted on the Swan valve.                 I removed the piece of rubber and it has been fine for several yrs now.  Others have had to replace their ck valve.  They are available cheaply at most box stores                 If that is your problem as well you can make a quick temp repair by simply using one of those hose  Ys   like you may have in your hose fittings collection.                              Screw it onto where you screw your hose.

 

WSV150ST - Quick Water Fill  The brass fitting on the left is the ck valve.


Kicking around a live-in Coach
JDCrow
9 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

For the price of an 05 Patriot that may sit stationary, couldn't you get a really nice and roomy 5th wheel?     Or do you need 2 motor homes?    His & hers?

This is a good question, and we are kicking a 5vr as well.

Biggest things is quality, and resale. The 5ver we live in now “looks” good, but nowhere near the quality of a coach. Rubber roof, questionable wiring, etc. Storage is horrible and we have a basement model. 
 

I believe a 5th wheel would be harder to sell, and depreciation would be high. I kinda think a 15-20 year coach is pretty depreciated out. And might sell faster? But you never know where the bottom is. 
 

And then the truck. My current truck will not pull a 5th wheel the wife wants. I can probably get the same payment trading in as my truck is desirable and has value more than I owe, but payments for another 5 years when this one has 1.5 years and paid off. 
 

All maybe moot. Might try another winter. Master plan is to have RV garage  with apartment here, and a winter home in AZ. We are in our late 40s parents early 70s, so we figure 10-12 years of time to ourselves before we need to build a home on our current acreage here in Oregon  that will accommodate aging parents correctly. (Wide hallways, single level no stairs inside/outside). 
 

Our business will be sellable in 5 years, either with the building/property or lease it and just sell the biz. Either way all this is just planning. The big coach is a stop gap till home prices find a down trending level in AZ (Havasu)  So a big coach lets us go south for a month or two. 

 

So there is master plan, and it’s just a plan as life is fastballs and curveballs. Lots of swings, misses, base hits, and the proverbial home run That allows us to retire. Who knows. 
 

Thanks for everyone’s input. It’s greatly appreciated here and in my other threads 


Control Module for Dometic Sealand Toilet
pwhittle

Hi Kevin,

I am glad you got to take your trip!

Paul


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Used Motorhome Checklist
A good checklist to use when inspecting a used Motorhome.
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