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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/494-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

water valve in bay; backflow valve failed
miacasa_2000
Samsung RF197 not cooling fridge
miacasa_2000
Load Shedding
Larry Laursen
Load Shedding
Bob Blackmon
Inverter Saga Help needed.
Dr4Film
Delayed in Elkhart
Chet P
Load Shedding
tmw188
Samsung RF197 not cooling fridge
Dr4Film
Rocker switch
Connie B
Load Shedding
itdave47
Load Shedding
tmw188
Load Shedding
Dr4Film
Hot Water Heater
itdave47
Load Shedding
amphi_sc
Hot Water Heater
Jim Byrd
Hot Water Heater
Wrayj1
Load Shedding
itdave47
Inverter Saga Help needed.
Nevada Rob
Load Shedding
W7BE_Bob
Hot Water Heater
bobdinsmore
Oil blowback at Oil fill tube ISL400
mandms59
Load Shedding
tmw188
Drawings
HR Ambassador
Oil blowback at Oil fill tube ISL400
Robert U
Turbo problem
top flight
Load Shedding
tmw188
Turbo problem
Timaz996
Turbo problem
top flight
Turbo problem
Timaz996
Load Shedding
tmw188
Turbo problem
top flight
Turbo problem
Timaz996
Load Shedding
Dr4Film
Turbo problem
top flight

New Posts

water valve in bay; backflow valve failed
miacasa_2000

When mine failed I didn't want to take the whole world apart to get to it so I just added a 1/4 turn valve to stop it from dripping out . While at it I added a pressure regulator so need to worry about high pressure from some campgrounds without the flow restrictions most portable ones have. It doesn't protect the hose but does protect the coach. You also could get a double male ended hose adapter with a cap to just stop it until you fix it.

20200510_123158.jpg


Samsung RF197 not cooling fridge
miacasa_2000

There is a fix for this you can do yourself  

Roy  2003 Dynasty

 

 


Load Shedding
Larry Laursen
Quote

From your picture it looks like the EMS board has already been bypassed.  If all the circuits work with 50 amp and 30 amp then you will have to monitor what you are using and control the total load manually.

I agree the EMS has been bypassed by someone.  The 120 volt wires should be attached to the terminals.  The board may have failed for the previous owner and was just bypassed.  The manual should show you the proper connections and then you test the board.  Many had the relays on the board fail.


Load Shedding
Bob Blackmon

The wires on the 2 pole 50 have been seriously hot. When removed from power you may want to see if the connections are tight.


Inverter Saga Help needed.
Dr4Film

VERY confusing post as to EXACTLY what took place and happened.

30 amp versus 50 amp, plug configuration, whether adapters were used, etc.

However, I guess you must have missed reading the hundreds of posts from members who have STRONGLY recommended installing either a Progressive Industries EMS protection device or a Southwire SurgeGuard EMS protection device prior to your transfer switch AND Inverter which would have detected the incorrect wiring and bad power protecting all of your coach from electrical damage,

If you had you wouldn't be having this problem or conversation.

Just realized that you are a fairly new member (apologies) therefore you most likely wouldn't have read previous posts about the devices I described above. However, I would highly recommend once you get your electrical problem straightened out to invest in one of those devices listed above so you won't have the same problem again.

The coach can handle 4 wire 240 VAC (2-120 VAC Loads, a neutral and a ground) but it cannot handle 3 wire 220 VAC using adapter.


Delayed in Elkhart
Chet P
19 hours ago, vito.a said:

Sounds like a long week.  Was that an upper radiator hose?

I would love to see the pictures also.  

Yes it was the upper.

Chet P


Load Shedding
tmw188
35 minutes ago, Bob Blackmon said:

The wires on the 2 pole 50 have been seriously hot. When removed from power you may want to see if the connections are tight.

Bob hey thanks for the observation! I checked all the wire terminals going into all the breakers and all were tight. I believe it looks concerning in the photo more than in person, but I will look at them again. That Neutral looks a little like those hots if you look closely following the wire. Insulation looks twisted?  I’ve seen that before on heavy stranded wire. Good observation I will certainly look at them again. 

20 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Todd,

Those four sets of wires that have been tired together with wire nuts are most likely for the front AC, the rear AC, the water heater and the washer/dryer.

The wires would normally have gone over to the appropriate relay on the control board in the order that they would be shed when on 30 amps or less shore power.

You will note that each wire coming from the CB is a different color whereas the wire that it is attached to is always black which is the load wire for the device.

Could be, my labeling for the breakers are probably the same as yours. I’ll try to diagnose what parts or board has failed. I think there are two boards there if I remember correctly. One might be just the terminal block but I think there were some circuitry on that board too.


Samsung RF197 not cooling fridge
Dr4Film

That video is for a completely different Samsung refrigerator model.

Within 6 months of owning owning our Samsung RF-197 we had water accumulating under the crisper bins. Installing a larger Defrost Clip solved the problem.

I have done a write up with photos on this subject which should be on this site somewhere.


Rocker switch
Connie B
22 hours ago, TigerMar said:

Hi Connie,

 

I believe they are Carling rocker switches.  Do a google search for them. I have had to replace 2 of these in my dash.  Got them on eBay.

 

gary

Thanks. I did find that. Appreciate the response. 

19 hours ago, Paul A. said:

nwrvsupply.com and findmyrvparts.com 

Thanks. I’ll check here also


water valve in bay; backflow valve failed
rtmurley

I had the same problem on our 2009 Dynasty and found a replacement check valve on Amazon. With Amazon Prime I had valve in two days. I also found the Pex fitting to the check valve inlet was protruding into the check valve housing keeping the check valve open. Installed a coupling (from Lowe’s) between the Pex fitting and the check valve that solved the problem.


Load Shedding
itdave47

I don't which board I have but mine failed a few years ago and I was able to repair it. The relays are common and avaliable thru Amazon. If you are good with soldering on a PCB you can replace the failed relays.


Load Shedding
tmw188
1 minute ago, itdave47 said:

I don't which board I have but mine failed a few years ago and I was able to repair it. The relays are common and avaliable thru Amazon. If you are good with soldering on a PCB you can replace the failed relays.

I have the tools for soldering CB’s and a little bulb vacuum that removes the old solder. If you could post the relay PN’s you used I’ll probably do that. That would be less money than complete boards. I’ll need to determine with certainty which relays are bad, but probably pretty typical failure. 


Load Shedding
Dr4Film

It is more than likely to be one of the AC relays as they have to carry a higher amount of current than the others.


Hot Water Heater
itdave47

My Atwood GC10A-3E works fine on propane but not on electric. I have check everything I can access. There is 120 leaving the CB panel and there is 12 volts leaving the control board that should activate the 120 volt relay at the back of the water heater. I can't figure out how to reach the back of the WH on my 2006 HR Endeavor PAQ. The WH is located behind the rear pass through bay and in front of the holding tanks. I am hoping there is a way to get to the back without pulling the WH. 


Load Shedding
amphi_sc

There could be one other possibility on why the board was bypassed by a previous owner.  I am NOT suggesting it was a good idea in the first place, but IF they often used one of those 50A cheater dog bones to plug into a 30A and a non GFI 20A pedestal to "get more amps", AND both the pedestal breakers were on the same leg of the split phase, then the coach EMS would still think it was only a 30A input (as 240V would not have been detected) and load shed things the previous owner was trying to avoid by the extra current from the extra 20A pedestal breaker.  I.e. they were trying to run 2 A/C's in a 30A site that had a non GFI 20A pedestal breaker also in the box ... so they just bypassed the EMS.  In this hypothetical case, the board & display could still be possibly good.  So you might want to fully test the board before just assuming it is bad.  Just saying as it could be an off chance possibility not knowing for sure why it was previously bypassed. 

And we all know such a practice could overload the neutral wire as all current would be returning via the neutral whereas in a full phase 240V circuit only the difference is on the neutral.


Hot Water Heater
Jim Byrd

Most likely you have a bad heating element.  If you can access the front of the heater you should be able to check for 120 V on the heater connection.

Jim


Hot Water Heater
Wrayj1

Dave, when you access you water heater your problem might be the mixing valve.  I just had the same issue with warm water on electric, but only a little warmer on propane.  I started with replacing the connector to the thermostat with still no luck.  The thermostat was ok.  I finally removed the mixing valve from the back if the heater and it was corroded with minerals etc.   We winter in Arizona and the water there is full of calcium etc.  I replaced the mixing valve, problem solved.  I found the mixing valve on Amazon.


Load Shedding
itdave47
8 minutes ago, tmw188 said:

I have the tools for soldering CB’s and a little bulb vacuum that removes the old solder. If you could post the relay PN’s you used I’ll probably do that. That would be less money than complete boards. I’ll need to determine with certainty which relays are bad, but probably pretty typical failure. 

It has been a number of years so don't remember the PN. However if you pull the board you should be able to read the part numbers on the relays. I just checked to manual and although it has a lot of info there are no part numbers. I checked my Amazon order and did not find the relay so now I am unsure where I got them.


Inverter Saga Help needed.
Nevada Rob

Let me start out by saying that I am not a professional licensed electrician, but a played on on TV once. I do have a degree from You Tube University on electrical stuff. From the original post it sound like it is possible that two 110 volt lines were sent down a plug that is only to have one 110 volt line. A 30amp RV plug has 1 - 110 Volt leg, 1 common leg, one ground leg. If the original outlet had 4 wires, (red, black, are hot, white common and green ground) and when switched to a 30 amp plug configuration with the red and black used then the common leg was energized. Since most RV's are not a bonded ground system then the direct short to ground would not occur. To the best of my knowledge there are no 220 volt/30amp 3 post RV plug. I do have 220 volt / 20 amp 3 post outlets in my shop that run machines. These are completely different types of plug/outlet. I may be way off base but this sounded really good in my head. I wish the best for your coach and search on getting it squared away.


Load Shedding
W7BE_Bob

It there a simplier way to disable a working load shedding system than bypassing all of the circuits?

Unbelievable but a CG I'm going to has 2x 30A plugs and they suggest using the cheater cord. They had no idea if the 2 hots on the 30A plugs are 240V or not so I won't know if the load shedding has to be disabled before I get there and test the pedestal. 

I'm not concerned with overloading the 50A wiring neutral with 60A even if I should draw 60A which is unlikely. Overloading one of the 30A neutrals in the cheater cord is possible of course and I'll take that risk. Overloading the 30A neutral in the 30A pedestal is not my concern since the CG recommends using the adapter. I'm also aware of the possible safety issue on not having a dual CB on the 2 hots. 

 

 


Hot Water Heater
bobdinsmore

I had this problem abt ten years ago and it was a worn out heating element. Needed to buy a deep-socket set designed specifically for plumbing. They do not fit on rachet wrench handles, but rather use a rod thru the socket to loosen and tighten. Standard deep sockets do not work because the inside flutes are chamfered. Set cost less than $10 at Home Depot as I recall.


How busy is it out West you asked.
Ivylog

Day tripped to Zion which was a zoo trying to find a parking spot to catch the shuttle. Once in the valley the crowds were not to bad but worse than anywhere we’ve been this summer.

Arrived at Jacob Lake Saturday at 10 AM getting into the USFS CG without any problem… plenty of vacant sites in the no reservations half of the CG. Was able to get a 2nd site close by for our daughter’s 45’ Navigator…first time dry camping for them. They are learning you don’t have to go from 50A to 50A expensive CGs.


How busy is it out West you asked.
JDCrow
20 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

Day tripped to Zion which was a zoo trying to find a parking spot to catch the shuttle. Once in the valley the crowds were not to bad but worse than anywhere we’ve been this summer.

Arrived at Jacob Lake Saturday at 10 AM getting into the USFS CG without any problem… plenty of vacant sites in the no reservations half of the CG. Was able to get a 2nd site close by for our daughter’s 45’ Navigator…first time dry camping for them. They are learning you don’t have to go from 50A to 50A expensive CGs.

Headed to Zion on Oct. Staying in Hatch UT. Not quite ready for a full dry camp vacation! LOL. We might have to inch closer to Zion after Bryce as Hatch is 1.5 Hours from Bryce. Waiting to see if there will be an opening at Watchman. Haven’t looked to see how far Horseshoe is yet


water valve in bay; backflow valve failed
Ivylog

04 Dynasty had a cheap plastic check valve that the rubber seat would dislodge…easy enough to take apart and re-seat, once you got to it. Finally replaced it with a metal check valve. 
08 Navigator almost seals but difficult to get to so I just use a Y on the supply hose as pictured above by Ray. The Y comes in handy when you need another hose hooked up.


How busy is it out West you asked.
Ivylog
19 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

Although we stayed at a FHU CG at 89 and 12 for Bryce (to be with our daughter and grands) I did check out where we would have stayed if by ourselves having stayed there before… Red Canyon USFS CG. There were several sites available we could have gotten our 45’ in as it is a first come CG… our favorite type. Big dump station with water and even in the summer, cool enough that you do not need AC… run the generator. In October you’ll probably need some heat. https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/dixie/recarea/?recid=24944y

One of my backups if I don’t get a site without reservations are small airports. Only once have I had to pay when I ask “how much to tie down” did I have to pay… plenty of room at the Bryce airport. Also plenty of dispersed camping in the immediate area. Come on over to the dark side, it’s easier than you think.


Oil blowback at Oil fill tube ISL400
mandms59
13 hours ago, Rick A said:

Have you noticed a drop on the oil level or a drop in oil pressure? 
How much oil do you think you are blowing out. 
No smoke and noises is a very good start. 

Oil pressure has been consistent in mid 50's even with the blow back issue the past  1 1/2 days. I have not been a hawk on watching pressure during descents/exh brake usage to see if it rises appreciably; but will do so when we depart tomorrow.

I will have to check the dipstick again tomorrow when I am off the jacks to get accurate reading; After the first day I thought it was sitting at same level as before (about 1-2 quarts low)but it is tough to tell on that stick as Ray mentioned above.

There have been no unusual noises, out of ordinary readings on gauges or Aladdin Monitoring page during those instances.  We are coming up on our oil and fluid filters replacement/maintenance here shortly -as we full time was planning to have done at the Cummins Service Center in Boise ID next week.

Should I be inquiring about cylinder compression test? 

Does anyone have any other T/S items I could tackle on my own? 

Could a clogged/restricted crankcase breather filter/tube contribute to problem?  I am 3rd owner of coach so no complete records from previous owners... and do not believe it has ever been replaced we are at 87K on engine.

 


Load Shedding
tmw188
1 hour ago, itdave47 said:

It has been a number of years so don't remember the PN. However if you pull the board you should be able to read the part numbers on the relays. I just checked to manual and although it has a lot of info there are no part numbers. I checked my Amazon order and did not find the relay so now I am unsure where I got them.

Ok well I appreciate the effort looking. I will look into it. Busy installing new LED lights and faucets, and cabinet hdwr but I’ll get to it. 

1 hour ago, W7BE_Bob said:

It there a simplier way to disable a working load shedding system than bypassing all of the circuits?

Unbelievable but a CG I'm going to has 2x 30A plugs and they suggest using the cheater cord. They had no idea if the 2 hots on the 30A plugs are 240V or not so I won't know if the load shedding has to be disabled before I get there and test the pedestal. 

I'm not concerned with overloading the 50A wiring neutral with 60A even if I should draw 60A which is unlikely. Overloading one of the 30A neutrals in the cheater cord is possible of course and I'll take that risk. Overloading the 30A neutral in the 30A pedestal is not my concern since the CG recommends using the adapter. I'm also aware of the possible safety issue on not having a dual CB on the 2 hots. 

 

 

I have one of these for that situation. 

02AB3D48-1961-4818-BC3A-4E650FC40A90.jpeg

1 hour ago, amphi_sc said:

There could be one other possibility on why the board was bypassed by a previous owner.  I am NOT suggesting it was a good idea in the first place, but IF they often used one of those 50A cheater dog bones to plug into a 30A and a non GFI 20A pedestal to "get more amps", AND both the pedestal breakers were on the same leg of the split phase, then the coach EMS would still think it was only a 30A input (as 240V would not have been detected) and load shed things the previous owner was trying to avoid by the extra current from the extra 20A pedestal breaker.  I.e. they were trying to run 2 A/C's in a 30A site that had a non GFI 20A pedestal breaker also in the box ... so they just bypassed the EMS.  In this hypothetical case, the board & display could still be possibly good.  So you might want to fully test the board before just assuming it is bad.  Just saying as it could be an off chance possibility not knowing for sure why it was previously bypassed. 

And we all know such a practice could overload the neutral wire as all current would be returning via the neutral whereas in a full phase 240V circuit only the difference is on the neutral.

Good thought, I will be checking into that. Thank you.


water valve in bay; backflow valve failed
rtmurley

My check valve was/is brass. Since I am second owner—not sure if was OEM


Lost the low beams on my headlights...
ktloah

Hello campers, while traveling home we lost our low beam side of the headlights. Marker lights flashed and they went out. Could not find any fuse, relay in the left front compartment. Checked the engine bay too. 04 Dynasty...400 isl...any suggestions?


Lost the low beams on my headlights...
Ivylog

Welcome to the burnt plug on the smart wheel controller in the front run box. I bypassed the 2 burnt wires with a 2 conductor plug (like the 4 type used for trailer lights). Soldered it into the board that was burnt up.


Lost the low beams on my headlights...
Timaz996

If you have an access panel on top of your dash look at the back of your light switch and make sure it's not melted.


Drawings
HR Ambassador

I own a 2009 HR Ambassador 41SKQ. I sure would like to get my hands on chassis wire drawings, and chassis air system drawings. Does anyone have these or know where to get them? I've contacted REV, no luck.


Oil blowback at Oil fill tube ISL400
Ivylog

Assuming a 06 engine you probably have a crankcase vent tube filter that need replacing.


Oil blowback at Oil fill tube ISL400
Rick A
10 minutes ago, mandms59 said:

Oil pressure has been consistent in mid 50's even with the blow back issue the past  1 1/2 days. I have not been a hawk on watching pressure during descents/exh brake usage to see if it rises appreciably; but will do so when we depart tomorrow.

 

I will have to check the dipstick again tomorrow when I am off the jacks to get accurate reading; After the first day I thought it was sitting at same level as before (about 1-2 quarts low)but it is tough to tell on that stick as Ray mentioned above.

 

There have been no unusual noises, out of ordinary readings on gauges or Aladdin Monitoring page during those instances.  We are coming up on our oil and fluid filters replacement/maintenance here shortly -as we full time was planning to have done at the Cummins Service Center in Boise ID next week.

Should I be inquiring about cylinder compression test? 

Does anyone have any other T/S items I could tackle on my own? 

Could a clogged/restricted crankcase breather filter/tube contribute to problem?  I am 3rd owner of coach so no complete records from previous owners... and do not believe it has ever been replaced we are at 87K on engine.

 

I have a 2005 Diplomat and my oil pressure runs at 35 psi. My clock sits at 51000 miles. The engine manual says 30 psi is the regular pressure at normal revs, and 20 psi at idle. It seams your pressure is under the regulated Max of 75 psi. 
Pressure in the crank case would dramatically increase if you had a cylinder issue. I doubt that’s the problem as smoke would almost be effect. I almost think Ray has a good point. 
Any leak would result in your issue. 


Lost the low beams on my headlights...
klcdenver

There are several good past articles on this subject in here if you will do a search.


Oil blowback at Oil fill tube ISL400
Robert U

It sounds like you have a clogged crankcase breather. Possibly a mud dobbers nest. I would check the breather tube first. It is normally next to oil filter.

Bob U


Magnum IntelliDrive engine monitor on '98 Beaver Patriot
Dennis-C

So I have this "new to me" 1998 Beaver Patriot with a Magnum ID installed in the dash.  It is DOA and no longer supported.  So I'm looking to add some other kind of engine and systems monitor.  Do these old Beavers have an actual OBD port?  I was looking at the BlueFire 9-pin Bluetooth gizmo at Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CS1HUXI/?coliid=I1VOC0FBMMLTTZ&colid=I290RGXG48UZ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it_im but not seeing any round connectors under the dash.  I though this would be nice to stream the data to a small tablet mounted over where the Magnum ID device was.  In my brief exploration under the dash I did find a large bundle of wires ending at what looks like a DB-25 female connector.  Sort of like the old serial or parallel computer plugs.  What is this used for?

Has anyone found any other solutions to monitoring engine data on these older rigs?

-Dennis


Magnum IntelliDrive engine monitor on '98 Beaver Patriot
Dr4Film

What engine does it have?

Does it have an analog engine control or electronic ECM?

You can only use the Blue-Fire and SIlverLeaf on engines that have electronic ECM's where the ECM will send data to the Blue-Fire or SilverLeaf.


Turbo problem
top flight

 Engine Cummins 325hp diesel in 2007 HR Vacationer. Had new Turbo installed in Georgia. Complete new exhaust system (including electronics) installed 1500 miles earlier. Left to return to Canada.  Warning light lit and shortly afterwards turbo cut out.  Stopped for a while and turbo ran normally for 30-40 minutes.  happens all the time now, sometimes perfect and other times nothing.  Has anyone else experienced this and solved the problem.


Load Shedding
tmw188

Not sure why above looks like I’m doing a dbl quote? I’m sure I submit reply before quoting another person- weird? Still figuring this site out. 

 


Lost the low beams on my headlights...
ktloah

Thanks for all the help....I'll post what the problem is when I find out...


Monaco, HR, Beaver, and Safari Diesel Pushers with a bath and a half...
Brett63

We have an 09 Sig Cambridge IV and love the 1.5 bath floorplan. 


Turbo problem
Timaz996

Are all of your engine parameters good? Temp, engine and Trans, oil pressure? Did you check for codes?


Turbo problem
top flight

all parameters are good.  Don't know how to check for codes.  Thanks for the reply

 


Turbo problem
Timaz996

I don't know how to check for codes on your coach. Can you look down from your closet and make sure the Pac-brake is not engaged? or did it have good power up until this happened?


Load Shedding
tmw188
5 hours ago, itdave47 said:

I don't which board I have but mine failed a few years ago and I was able to repair it. The relays are common and avaliable thru Amazon. If you are good with soldering on a PCB you can replace the failed relays.

Here is the board with the relays. I can hook them backup I suppose and plug the connectors back in on the back. Until I look to verify but I assume each one plugs into its own relay 1,2,3,and 4, in whatever order the std setup is. Maybe I can find the relays online and solder them in?

03564E16-5507-4750-9459-14BD663E5A26.jpeg

2E4C368C-ECE5-4077-B889-E3F2C3CF4DBA.jpeg


Turbo problem
top flight

Thanks, it has good power under normal aspiration.  Better when turbo kicks in.  The engine brake works as it should.  I am wondering if this might be some kind of wiring problem.


Turbo problem
Timaz996

Not sure, That's all I have, someone else with more knowledge is going to have to chime in.


Load Shedding
Dr4Film

Todd, do you have the manual for this older version control board?

If not I can post one.


Turbo problem
top flight

Thanks Tim


Monaco, HR, Beaver, and Safari Diesel Pushers with a bath and a half...
Ivan K

So what does 1.5 bath really mean? Just an additional sink by the toilet OR 2 toilets, 2 sinks and 1 shower/tub? Wonder what do we actually have with just the extra sink.


Load Shedding
amphi_sc

I can't read the #'s on Todd's relays, but they could be these??? https://www.google.com/search?q=g8p-1a4p

These single pole normally open relays seem to be popular in my coach in a lot of places on various Intellitec boards.  To fix a random engine shut down issue, back in 2018 I paid (overpaid) 11.38 for 2 of them because shipping was more than the parts, but I could only find them online.  I have no clue if your board uses a normally open or nomally closed design.


Turbo problem
Ivan K

Does the boost cut out while driving or does it just not come up from no boost situation like idling or coasting? I would also think that there should be a code for it. I suspect that you have an electronic turbo controller, given the year, and you could check around the wiring to it for start.


Load Shedding
tmw188
50 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Todd, do you have the manual for this older version control board?

If not I can post one.

I have this manual. There is info in there that might say. I would have study this some but it seems they could be either depending what pin they are on maybe? Right now over my pay grade. 

26B1B872-5324-4FA2-985B-E4CC05EAAB6A.jpeg

9B505A34-5725-4E27-B6DB-37F80F3133FA.jpeg

BE5FA88E-B439-40E4-B207-9E6AC8FC5C91.jpeg

1EC56D02-58A4-49D2-858F-E8E796EC7644.jpeg


Turbo problem
top flight

Sometimes it cuts out (or in) when driving, most times it happens from startup.  Good idea on the turbo controller wiring.  I will check it.  Thanks for replying.


Turbo problem
MrAmbassador

I thought my turbo was not working properly. I would step on the fuel and the Coach just sat. It turned out to be the secondary fuel filter. Have you changed out your filters lately?


Replacing Norcold in slide with residential ( who has done this ? )
skyranchdanes

Well I guess a residential refrigerator is in the future.   Very Near Future that is !  

 

We have a ’02 Diplomat 40’  PBT.   The Norcold 4 door refrigerator is in the slide next to the cook top .   Well, the right hand refrigerator door came off last night.   Looks like the bottom hinge that is in the door frame weakened.    Right now   all items that were in the door have found new places to be.   Door is ‘on’, and duct taped as a reminder NOT to open it.  We have added wood at the bottom of the hinge area with screws to support it, and have screwed wood to the bottom frame with pressure on the door to prevent it from pulling out.

 

I’m hoping others who have replaced their Norcold in the same type of configuration can tell me which residential they decided on.   I’m expecting it would be a 2 door, either top or bottom freezer.   We don’t have a problem with the door swing as we have an opposing slide so while parked we have plenty of room.   We have a Freedom Combi Inverter/Charger which is modified sine wave.  We ARE limited to height because of the slide.   See attached picture.  

 

I have downloaded several articles from the files section regarding the Norcold / replacement, etc.

 

Any additional information / recommendations are great appreciated.    

 

Regards,

Pat D.

’02 Diplomat 40’ PBT 

Refer.jpg


Delayed in Elkhart
Chet P

The attached files are the coach in prep at Elkhart Sales and Service, and the finished coach at a campground. The rear cap was done, both colors. You can see how good the color match is since the bottom color on the slide is the original. The top cap color was redone all around the whole coach since the clear coat had pealed in the front and on the sides. There were two 14" tears in the fiberglass right on each side of the exhaust pipe. The repair of these was perfect so you can't tell it ever happened.

Chet P

2004 SIG Castle IV


Turbo problem
Bliksem

You have variable turbo which is electronically controlled, the fact that is was just recently replaced and that power is good when it is working makes me think is is electrical. I would suspect a wiring issue or the controller on the turbo is faulty or was not calibrated correctly.


Magnum IntelliDrive engine monitor on '98 Beaver Patriot
Dennis-C

Cat 3126b, I believe.  Will have to dig out the book and see if that tells me if its analog or electronic ECM.

-Dennis


Replacing Norcold in slide with residential ( who has done this ? )
klcdenver

The Samsung RF18 should fit pretty easy for you. You will probably have to do a little carpenter work. It is the favorite that most to change to. It will run off your current inverter also. I have had one for about a year now with no problems. 


Inverter Saga Help needed.
MrAmbassador

I agree with Rick (drawings), it is best to start at the power source. Does this plug in source have a 50 Amp breaker (each hot wire should come from different legs on the power panel)? If so, do the two hots coming out of it go to the plug in question? If so, Use a volt meter to check that the two female stabs on the left and right each have 120Vs with the black voltmeter  wire is touching the ground or common female stabs. This should tell you if it is connected properly. If it is then on to the Coach. And yes as Richard mentioned  it is worth investing in a EMS protection device. 


Check Transmission Light, no gear selection light??
MrAmbassador

A similar problem developed when the Coach batteries were replaced. Just like John mentioned the ground wires to the TCM were not making good contact. I cleaned each one and it worked perfectly. 


Delayed in Elkhart
Chet P

I don;'t know why the photos didn't load. I click on "ATTACH"  after choosing the files, the upload bar progress, I click insert, and nothing happens.

Chet P 

 


Check Transmission Light, no gear selection light??
John Haggard
5 minutes ago, MrAmbassador said:

A similar problem developed when the Coach batteries were replaced. Just like John mentioned the ground wires to the TCM were not making good contact. I cleaned each one and it worked perfectly. 

Jorge is correct

And several have had to replace the 10 amp fuse holder at the battery bay also. 

No power

No ground 

Nothing runs 

Also

Many change batteries and those small wires drop behind,  hide and are not hooked up.

Again

Nothing will function 😴


Replacing Norcold in slide with residential ( who has done this ? )
Rivrman2

If not residential, you can find a replacement door. - I just replaced mine for the same reason plus there is a hinge reinforcement kit you can buy very reasonably. 


Replacing Norcold in slide with residential ( who has done this ? )
skyranchdanes
35 minutes ago, klcdenver said:

The Samsung RF18 should fit pretty easy for you. You will probably have to do a little carpenter work. It is the favorite that most to change to. It will run off your current inverter also. I have had one for about a year now with no problems. 

I appreciate the information ... however I read the RF18 height is 68 7/8o"  ...  won't fit.

Regards,

Pat D.

’02 Diplomat 40’ PBT

 

 

15 minutes ago, Rivrman2 said:

If not residential, you can find a replacement door. - I just replaced mine for the same reason plus there is a hinge reinforcement kit you can buy very reasonably. 

We have considered that as well.    I remember seeing a post recently that someone had parts ...  will have to look for that post again.    Appreciate the suggestion.

Regards,

Pat D.

’02 Diplomat 40’ PBT


Replacing Norcold in slide with residential ( who has done this ? )
Kevin R

Mine is a 98 38 ft but this is what I used. Home Depot.

Model #FFHT1425VV

Store SKU #1004612872

 

20200823_144337.jpg


Inverter Issue
wamcneil

Is this the xantrex rv2012 inverter?  I had a similar problem that turned out to be the inverter’s AGS shutting down the generator. Sporadically at first and then eventually becoming pretty consistent. 
In the onan troubleshooting guide, it basically says ‘turn off the main breaker on the generator and if the problem goes away, your issue is outside of the generator’. 
My inverter apparently lost its mind and began shutting down the generator for me. I had a trouble code stating low AC voltage that made it even more confusing. Turns out my trouble code was not relevant; the generator stores the last trouble code and will recall the old code, even if there is no current error condition. So I spent a lot of time trying to figure out how the ECU could be flagging low voltage when my meter was very clearly indicating no low voltage condition. 
I isolated the condition by shutting off the main breaker on the generator. Then further isolated it by turning on the main breaker and turning off the two breakers feeding the inverter. 
Cheers

Walter


Replacing Norcold in slide with residential ( who has done this ? )
Ivylog

Whirlpool makes a 2 door, with a side freezer, that is only 65 1/2” tall but that is 1/2” taller than the 1200 hole… still requires a little woodwork. The one I installed is 21 cuft but not a counter depth… had to take the driver’s window out.


Inverter Saga Help needed.
CRY1942

For me, a picture is worth a bunch of words.

50_Amp_240V-metered.jpg.5ff80104e0b4004e46ce92f593e74748.jpg


Inverter Issue
jacwjames

That's basically what I did, I first shut off the breaker on the generator, it ran fine but as soon as I flipped the breaker on it died.

I then shut off all the breakers on the inside and through trial and error I found the generator would shut down when I flipped the L2 breaker feeding the inverter from the main panel

I ran the front AC most of last night without a problem but the inverter will not charge the batteries like that.  Fortunately at 4PM I started with full batteries, by morning I was still at 70% and that was leaving the refrigerator plugging into the inverter circuit.

I drove ~6 hours today and the batteries were full.  So when I parked I started the generator and AC's to cool the coach off and plugged the refrigerator into an outlet controlled by the main panel, this was to keep my batteries up.  It's bee ~3 hours and I'm still at 85%.  I'll probably let the generator run all night, it's hot enough to justify keeping the coach cool. 

I guess I'll cut my trip short and start heading toward the house tomorrow.  Not sure if I can get there in one day or not. 

I'll then dig into the problem.

Thanks for the reply. 


Inverter Issue
wamcneil

If you can access that side of the inverter , it’s pretty easy to disconnect the AGS wiring. It’s just 4 wires in a terminal block under the cover plate. I just ran with AGS disconnected till I eventually replaced the inverter.
Picture:
Trace Generator Start Wiring.pdf


Inverter Issue
jacwjames

I don't have the inverter AGS programmed, never have. 

I do have a EC30W AGS system mostly for monitoring temp and shore power. 


Another inverter issue…Magnum 2812
Ivylog

06 Navigator with a replacement 2812 by previous owner. With the generator running the inverter/charger will stop charging and start inverting BUT both legs of the generator power does not drop out. Will do this about every 30 seconds.

In trouble shooting another problem for our daughter on their first dry camping day (son-in-law is handy) he was concerned that with everything but the residential refrigerator turned off the inverter was drawing 30 amps out of the batteries. Discovered that a 55 amp charger had been added in parallel with the 2812 BUT it was plugged into the outlet in the basement which is powered by the inverter… perpetual power has been discovered. Unplugging it and the inverter dropped to 2 amps…problem solved. Suggested moving the charger to the engine area and using the block heater outlet to power it.

Back to the inverter, inverting with the generator running. By manually turning the inverter off it went into bulk charging at 150 amps tapering down after 30 minutes like it should. This confirms that the 2812 is getting uninterrupted 117V power BUT, if you turn the inverter back on (press the button on the remote control) it goes back to charging and  inverting.

Any suggtions?


Inverter Issue
Ivan K

You can also disconnect the large connector on passenger top of generator and totally isolate anything possibly causing shutdown by command. Whether AGS programmed or not, bad switch, wiring etc.


Drawings
Gary M

I have drawings for my 09 Knight 38PKQ. Not sure how close they are to your coach. 


Drawings
Gary M
7 hours ago, HR Ambassador said:

I own a 2009 HR Ambassador 41SKQ. I sure would like to get my hands on chassis wire drawings, and chassis air system drawings. Does anyone have these or know where to get them? I've contacted REV, no luck.

My 09 Knight has some SKQ, DFT and SFT drawings. Some say Knight/Ambassador. Got them from REV last year.


Inverter Issue
jacwjames

When I get home I'll try doing that just to confirm.  I'm going to check the simple things first. 

Running the generator again tonight to cool the coach, both AC's.  Also plugged the refrigerator into the shore power outlet behind it to save the batteries.  I have both the L1 & L2 inverter breakers off in the main panel.  Generator is running fine, both AC's & fridge pulling ~33 amps based on the load meter. 

 


Monaco, HR, Beaver, and Safari Diesel Pushers with a bath and a half...
woodylmiller

We have a sink/toilet in the half bath.  The full bath has sink/toilet/shower.  Wouldn't be without it.  I was on the "must have" list.  We didn't look at any coach without the bath and a half.  DW thinks I'm a heathen, therefore I have my own half bath, she lets me use the shower if I behave myself.


Monaco, HR, Beaver, and Safari Diesel Pushers with a bath and a half...
Scotty Hutto
4 hours ago, Ivan K said:

So what does 1.5 bath really mean? Just an additional sink by the toilet OR 2 toilets, 2 sinks and 1 shower/tub? Wonder what do we actually have with just the extra sink.

Additional toilet & sink for a total of 2 toilets, 2 sinks, and in our case a full size tub with shower. 


Delayed in Elkhart
vito.a

Trying to attach Chet's pictures.  Sure looks great!

Chester Parks Coach in paint.heic Chester Parks Coach in paint 2.heic


Drawings
HR Ambassador

Would you be able to email?


Driver side drops within 30 minutes after leveling
STAN SZY

I realize you guys keep referring to HWH but on my 2006 Camelot the control panel says Valid PowerGear. Is that only referencing the controller and the solenoid 6 packs are by HWH? I presently am in South Dakota for Sturgis Rally & a few events in Deadwood. My drivers side will not stay up & level, tired of walking uphill & downhill! 
Appreciate all the info but slightly confused on system.thanks


Drawings
Gary M
4 minutes ago, HR Ambassador said:

Would you be able to email?

I can try thru my phone as I don’t  have my laptop with me and wont be back till next weekend. They are in my Drive file if emails fail. Could try to share file with u that way u could download what or all and discard what not pertinent to u. Remember these are from REV and dated from 05 to 09. There is a guy on ebay selling OEM CD’s of 08 models @ $125 each.


Drawings
HR Ambassador

I'm not home either, so a week is not a big deal. How much do you need to email file?


Drawings
Gary M
1 minute ago, HR Ambassador said:

I'm not home either, so a week is not a big deal. How much do you need to email file?

Im green at this but just your email where to send. Ill try a small amount to see how they travel to u. If files are too big Ill try to give u access to the file in Drive, then when you've downloaded what u want, let me know and Ill close out the share with you.


Drawings
HR Ambassador

I appreciate it very much. 

pajjrj@sbcglobal.net


Drawings
Gary M
Just now, HR Ambassador said:

I appreciate it very much. 

pajjrj@sbcglobal.net

10-4 Ill give it a shot. 


Drawings
Gary M
22 minutes ago, HR Ambassador said:

I appreciate it very much. 

pajjrj@sbcglobal.net

Ok sent first 24 drawings


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