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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/500-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Awning Fabric Replacement
SteveK
Parts list
Jeff H
Fresh water Tank problem
Jeff H
Intermittent Turbo Issues
Upsman85
Condencer drip
Ivylog
Fresh water Tank problem
top flight
Intermittent Turbo Issues
top flight
Intermittent Turbo Issues
Chuck B
Macerator pump
Dr4Film
No 120 ac into Coach
Dr4Film
Macerator pump
Chuck B
Awning Fabric Replacement
Cubflyer
Awning Fabric Replacement
Scotty Hutto
Macerator pump
Paul A.
EGT Gauge Added
dl_racing427
Onan 7500 Cooling Sensor
MHRookie
Macerator pump
Dwight Lindsey
'08 Camelot TRAVEL Inflation problem
RustyTools
Intermittent Turbo Issues
Jon__C
Intermittent Turbo Issues
top flight
Inverter Issue
jacwjames
EGT Gauge Added
vanwill52
Inverter Issue
vanwill52
Smart wheel issues.
Grampy OG
Micro-air Thermostat
Grampy OG
Onan 7500 Cooling Sensor
vanwill52
Micro-air Thermostat
Dr4Film
Onan 7500 Cooling Sensor
NAMVET77
Micro-air Thermostat
Grampy OG
Heated Floor no power 2009 Dynasty
ken.knutson100
Heated Floor no power 2009 Dynasty
John Haggard
Inverter Issue
jacwjames
Inverter Issue
vanwill52
Inverter Issue
jacwjames
Inverter Issue
vanwill52

New Posts

Awning Fabric Replacement
SteveK

Anybody got any contacts for awning fabric replacement in Middle Tennessee or close by?


Convert Batwing antenna to hold a wifi/ cellular antenna.
Jeff H
7 hours ago, vanwill52 said:

Poynting.  Google it.

x 2 with a Pepwave Max Transit Cat 18 LTE Advanced Pro Router from Techno RV


Parts list
Jeff H
7 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:

Jeff,

I have a 2006 Diplomat and the mirrors on mine are definitely Ramco. I had a tanker truck hit mine and break the arm about 4-5 years ago; called Ramco and ended up removing the mirror and shipping it to them. They replaced the parts,  put humpty dumpty back together and shipped it back in about a week. I was very pleased with the service and the cost of repairs. 
 

https://www.ramco-eng.com/

Address: 2805 Frederic Dr
Elkhart, IN 46514

Phone: (574) 266-1455
Toll Free: (800) 321-4819
Fax: (574) 266-1420

 

 

Thanks Scotty

I will get in touch with them


Fresh water Tank problem
Jeff H
20 hours ago, top flight said:

2007 HR Vacationer Diesel.  Went to fill my freshwater tank and it did not vent, actually caused the floor to start to rise.  Fortunately shut off and drained tank, no damage to floor. Can anyone tell me where the air vent is located or could this be something else?

It caused the floor of the RV to rise?  Isn't the black and grey tank above the fresh water tank?  That means the fresh water tank expanded enough to crush the holding tanks, which are vented, and push the floor up?  Or do you mean the top of the water tank started to rise?


Intermittent Turbo Issues
Upsman85

I had a turbo boost reference sensor go bad and turbo would quit.  Isl 400 Cummins 


Condencer drip
Ivylog

I put a bent in half small tie wrap in the drain hoses…keeps a bug from building a nest but lets the water out.


Fresh water Tank problem
top flight

No Jeff, the holding tanks on my coach are not above the water tank.  It sits alone in a compartment just below the floor and when the problem first occurred pressure expanded the tank and pushed the floor upwards, fortunately my wife, who was in the coach spotted it straight away and I opened the drain valve and the floor went back to its normal position and seems to be undamaged.

Thanks Redstick, I will try that this weekend (weather permitting)


Intermittent Turbo Issues
top flight

Thanks guys, don't think it is a frozen waste gate as shop checked that.  I will have the ref sensor checked.  A new one was installed at the same time as the turbo.


Intermittent Turbo Issues
Chuck B

I trust you used a Cummins Authorized Distributor Cummins shop.  If you did, those shops warranty their work for 45 days.  You can go to Any Distributor shop for warranty work.  If not, you need to return to the shop that did your work.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Macerator pump
Dr4Film

I have read on this forum where people were highly recommending an upgraded Sanicon pump called the TURBO, much stronger and faster.

https://www.thetford.com/products/evacuation/sani-con-turbo/


No 120 ac into Coach
Dr4Film

Tim, this morning I went back to read this entire thread and there isn't one post from you or anyone quoting you in regards to identifying the brand of your transfer switch so I my early prognosis of dementia has been determined to be non-existent for now at least. Don't know what the future has in store for me regarding my cognitive abilities but for now I can rest easy. 😁


Macerator pump
Chuck B

As far as I am concerned the best place for a Macerator Pump is in the garbage.  I fulltimed for 8 years with a good quality sewer hose.  I kept my black tank valve closed and my gray take valve open.  After emptying my black tank, I would rinse it out with a water hose going down the toilet.  I would then close the valve letting a few gallons of fresh water enter the tank.  Never had any black tank issues.    Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Awning Fabric Replacement
Cubflyer

I did my own, pretty simple operation with a helper, but does require working where a fall is possible.... be safe. 


Awning Fabric Replacement
Scotty Hutto

My advice would be to call Stone Vos @ 352-942-0224. @throgmartin

They are great to work with and most likely have someone they can recommend to install their products in your area. 

They're also great at giving you instruction to do it yourself if you are so inclined. 
 

 


2009 Dynasty 500 ISM Low Coolant Level check engine light
ken.knutson100

I recently got a low coolant check engine light come on. I checked the level and it is up to the bottom of the filler neck and the sensor is way below that. Even if the coach was tilted it shouldn’t be affected. So I thought the sensor must be bad as I’ve heard the Cummins low coolant sensors have a tendency to go out. So I replaced it. On my last coach the same thing happened with the 400 Cummins and that fixed it. This one is still reading low coolant after putting in the new part. And I got it from a Cummins dealer. I suppose it could be bad too but should I be looking for something else that would trigger this? Is there a way to ohm it out? 
 

243B612F-C7A4-42EE-942C-5B477F1F3F81.jpeg


Macerator pump
Paul A.

We used a Macerator Pump 10 years full timing. Keep the hair out of it. I replaced the impeller as required.  Maintenance is minimal for the convenience it provides.  Proper use habits are a attribute to the performance experienced.   


EGT Gauge Added
dl_racing427
23 hours ago, vanwill52 said:

David, the special "Type K" thermcouple wire is stiff and appears slightly fragile and prone to kinking.  It is indeed a bear to run.  The gages like the AutoMeter one I installed use ordinary copper wire, making the process infinitely easier.

Since I have found so many times that I needed extra wires running from the engine bay to the instrument panel, I finally used this as an excuse to run TWO 7-conductor, 14 AWG trailer wiring cables front to rear and end them with terminal strips front and rear.  The multi-conductor cable is neoprene-sheathed and very flexible, waterproof, and rugged--You can yank on it when necessary while snaking it forward.  The box marked "EGT Gage" is the "amplifier" that allows the millivolt signal to be transmitted over ordinary copper wire.

Van

20210613_092325_resized.jpg

That's a great idea, I'll probably do the same when I get to it.
What route did you take through the center of your coach?
Mine has a couple conduits that run atop the center of the bays, but they're both pretty full already.  Not sure I could get a snake through there.

Thanks.


Onan 7500 Cooling Sensor
MHRookie

Your not working on your motorhome, your working in the generator… gotta use the gray area wherever you can.

kidding aside.. your sensor is packed off with calcium type build up.  
what I did.

buy a right angle drill adapter for a drill (mine was 12” long)

buy a stubby drill bit the size of the sensor hole.  I’m not home to remember the name or size but I got it at Home Depot in the drill isle.  It’s not a “Chuck” type of bit.  It’s a hex type about 1.5” to 2” long is all.

I’m pretty sure they are counter sink type of hex bit.  It was a “Ryobi speed load bit).  Just can’t remember the size… I bought 2 of them.  Take the part you got removed and use it for size up.

remove t-stat from top of engine & remove coolant below sensor hole. Place rag below sensor hole.

two people - 1 to run the drill & 1 to run right angle head through sensor mounting hole.  
 

it takes a lot longer to prep the whole thing than it will to drill.  You are only drilling brass & the calcium. 
 

Hope this helps & good luck!


Macerator pump
Dwight Lindsey
2 hours ago, Chuck B said:

As far as I am concerned the best place for a Macerator Pump is in the garbage.  I fulltimed for 8 years with a good quality sewer hose.  I kept my black tank valve closed and my gray take valve open.  After emptying my black tank, I would rinse it out with a water hose going down the toilet.  I would then close the valve letting a few gallons of fresh water enter the tank.  Never had any black tank issues.    Chuck B 2004 Windsor

Chuck: 

Some of us like and in fact need the macerator.  I am currently dumping into a toilet 100 feet away from the coach.  The macerator makes that possible.  At campground dump sites it does take a bit longer to dump, but nothing unreasonable.

Dwight


'08 Camelot TRAVEL Inflation problem
RustyTools

Thanks, Ivan.  That photo of the block and ports helped illuminate the ol' light-bulb, albeit quite dimly.  It was also suggested I swap travel lines to see if the issue follows, and now I get where we're going.

I think I went to bed around 1 this morning, still studying and following how the system works. Dunno why this seems so complicated to me, electronics was my forte and this shouldn't be that different confused.gifconfused.gif. A real drawing or schematic would help immensely, I'm sure, as what I found are 'similar-to' versions (like Power Gear, HWH, etc), but not exactly what I have.

For instance, all of the info/photos I've come across show the ride height port and the pressure port on the bottom (with the open exhaust port) and the 2 air-bag ports coming out the side like mine, but my block also has another air-line on the top. Can't find what it does. Nothing stamped anywhere and no info shown online.  Anyone?

I'm also going to verify that the solenoid(s) are really opening, and not just clicking.


I'll keep posting progress (or lack thereof).


2009 Dynasty 500 ISM Low Coolant Level check engine light
vito.a

Wow, you got one of the last big Monaco coaches.  What a find.

Is it a 2 or 1 wire sensor?

If a 2 wire, try connecting the 2 wires directly and see if the light resets.  If a 1 wire, try grounding it and see if it resets.  

Hope you get it.  

 


Intermittent Turbo Issues
Jon__C

What warning light comes on?  The turbo is driven from exhaust from engine loading and a lot of suspected turbo issues are really engine fueling issues. An intermittent crank position sensor or manifold absolute pressure sensor can cause your issues.  There would be a diagnostic code stored in the engine ECM as to which sensor. Or any issues in the fuel system could also be the culprit 
 

if the turbo spins up at all (makes good boost at times) which it sounds like it does, then it could also be either a sticking wastegate or if its a variable geometry turbo then the gate could be sticking.  Either of these causes bypass of exhaust around the turbo making it not spin up. 


2009 Dynasty 500 ISM Low Coolant Level check engine light
Bliksem

I had the same problem the sensor had leaked into the electrical plug and corroded it, removed and replace the electrical connectors inside the plug


Intermittent Turbo Issues
top flight

Hi John_C, thanks for the reply.  The warning light covers engine and transmission.  It is the only one on my instrument panel.  It is VGT and I will have to get the shop to look at the codes as I do not have an analyzer.  Yes when it does work I get lots of boost.  Will go to storage local on Monday and try the different things that have been suggested and that I can do myself.   If they fail I'll have to make an appointment at the Cummins repair shop.

3 hours ago, Chuck B said:

I trust you used a Cummins Authorized Distributor Cummins shop.  If you did, those shops warranty their work for 45 days.  You can go to Any Distributor shop for warranty work.  If not, you need to return to the shop that did your work.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor

Thanks Chuck, yes it was a Authorized Cummins shop.  Unfortunately it is in Georgia and I had the work done on our return trip up to Canada at the start of the Pandemic. Due to Border closure we have not been able to return there.  They have suggested that, when Border opens I take it to their nearest facility which is in Ohio.


'08 Camelot TRAVEL Inflation problem
Ivan K

You will have 2 ride hight ports for the rear axle. One on each opposing long side of the block, from each of the 2 control valves. Does that explain the single port on that side?

Screenshot_20210731-133123-987.png


Inverter Issue
jacwjames

Well, I've been troubleshooting my power problem, I originally thought it was an inverter problem causing the generator to kick out.

Yesterday I called a Xantrex repair shop near me in TN and explained my symptoms (the same as I explained to the Xantrex tech support) but he said the 259 ohms on the one leg is normal.  He suggested I completely bypass the inverter and see what the generator does, so I did and found that the rear bath/bedroom circuit is what is causing the problem.  I swapped GFCI and that didn't solve the problem. 

So I disconnected that circuit and hooked the inverter back up and all is good.  It charges, inverts etc.  Put everything back and now I'll turn my attention to the one circuit causing a problem. 

 

Now my question is does anyone know if the wire routing for a circuit based on the wiring diagram follows the numbering.  In my case the outlets are 

  1. 6S1  right hand side of bed 
  2. 6S2  left hand side of bed
  3. 6S3 is the TV outlet
  4. 6S4 is the commode room
  5. 6S5 is the vanity near the bed
  6. 6S6 is the outlet at the end of the base cabinet 

Doesn't seem they would daisy chain in that order but would like to confirm. 

Also, while I'm having to pull these outlets I'd like to replace with a better quality,  I took the vanity outlet out and see how flimsy they are.  Any suggestions on replacements. 


EGT Gauge Added
vanwill52
2 hours ago, dl_racing427 said:

That's a great idea, I'll probably do the same when I get to it.
What route did you take through the center of your coach?
Mine has a couple conduits that run atop the center of the bays, but they're both pretty full already.  Not sure I could get a snake through there.

Thanks.

My conduits were also crowded, but using a metal snake to draw a nylon cord through enbabled me to get it through.  I used two people, one at each end, to yank and wiggle it as I went.  I removed the overhead panels from my storage bay. I drug the two cables through bound together.  Had that process encountered difficulty, I might have tried pulling one at a time.

If you use nylon cord for your "pull snake", lash the ends of the two cables together tightly with small nylon twine binding the "pull snake" to the two cables, then tape the end where your "pull snake" exits the bundle so that it is smooth and pointed, I think you'll be able to get it through.  I let my two cables enter the FRB (front run bay) under the driver's window, then go upward into the console.  From there, it was easy to snake it up behind the instrument panel.

Good luck!  It is really handy to have spare wires available on a terminal strip.  There are OEM spare wires available running from the engine compartment to the instrument panel on EVERY Monaco I've ever worked on, but they are varying sizes and many folks report not being able to find them at all.  They are ALWAYS there somewhere, but having terminal strips at each end is handy.


High fuel pressure (never saw that before)!!!
vanwill52
On 7/30/2021 at 10:22 AM, jacwjames said:

My FASS return line goes to tank

I am using the original return line, have not modified.  

Just trying to understand the system and potential causes. 

 

Jim, I used the original OEM SUPPLY lines to FEED the FASS pump.  But I installed a separate, additional return line for the FASS pump itself.  I first considered adding a tee and plumbing the FASS RETURN line into the RETURN line leaving the OEM Lift Pump Manifold.  Both the instructions and a call to FASS support confirmed that there is indeed an "over-pressure" sensor somewhere in the ISC return line plumbing, and the extra ouput of the FASS pump, IF CONNECTED TO THE EXISTING RETURN LINE FROM THE LIFT PUMP, would likely trigger that sensor.  Support said it does not ALWAYS trigger the sensor, but that it happened often enough that they recommended the additional FASS-dedicated return line.  I had an unused tapping in my fuel tank, so I ran the FASS-dedicated return to that fitting.  If, anywhere along the line, you joined the FASS return line to the same tapping in your fuel tank, PERHAPS that might be an issue.  IFF that were the case, the sensor would most likely be triggered at IDLE, when the CAPS pump is returning the max amount through the Lift Pump manifold, and the FASS is returning most of what it pumps to the tank at the same time.

I think I understood that you also installed the separate, dedicated return line for the FASS pump.  Is that true? Did it use its own dedicated tapping at the fuel tank?  Interesting problem.  You are a methodical guy.  I'm sure you'll find a reason for the problem.


'08 Camelot TRAVEL Inflation problem
Dr4Film

I have attached the manual for the Valid Air Leveling System. On page 14 it describes the ports and their air connections.

pg_valid_manual_air_level_install_service_.pdf


Inverter Issue
vanwill52
24 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

 

Also, while I'm having to pull these outlets I'd like to replace with a better quality,  I took the vanity outlet out and see how flimsy they are.  Any suggestions on replacements. 

Jim, I also have always thought that the "push-in" outlets (regular and GFI) had no place in a motor home that is constantly bumping down the road.  They seem to work OK in residential applications.  But every time I've had to pull an outlet, I replaced it with one that had screw terminals available.  Only had one problem ever, and that was the vanity outlet gave up the ghost when a hair dryer (high amperage) was plugged in and overloaded an already poor push-in connection.  Charred the outlet, but no fire.


Smart wheel issues.
Grampy OG

The same thing happened on my '02 Dynasty. I had to pull the wheel off. The clock spring had actually broken and was getting intermittent contacts. I was only moderately difficult to change. If you have to go that route pay close attention to the instructions for the proper time to release the newly mounted spring.

Good luck


Micro-air Thermostat
Grampy OG
On 7/13/2021 at 10:20 AM, wamcneil said:

I seriously doubt that could ever work. The thermostat is connected to the first AC, and then there's a data cable from the first AC (zone1) to the 2nd AC (Zone2). So for the thermostat to control both old and new ACs, it'd need to speak two languages down the same wire. 

The MicroAir can handle 4 zones. 


Onan 7500 Cooling Sensor
vanwill52
On 7/30/2021 at 9:56 AM, Dr4Film said:

58 seconds sound like something else is going on and not the Coolant Sensor.

I tend to agree with Richard on this one.  58 seconds is hardly long enough for the coolant temp to rise much at all.  I know this is totally unrelated, but I have had similar problems with my 7500 generator--running a very short time and then shutting off.  In my case, it could always be cured by holding down the Start/Stop switch in the Stop position repeatedly for 30-60 seconds.  During that time, you can hear the fuel primer pump running.  That procedure is in the manual for the Onan.  It would normally apply only if you had changed fuel filters or done something to disconnect the fuel inlet plumbing.  But in my case, I've had to do this multiple times over the years when the genny knocked off.  Don't recall the error codes the first time it happened.  Now, I just know what to do to get it going again.  HTH.  Good luck!  Let us know how it turns out.


Micro-air Thermostat
Dr4Film
8 minutes ago, Grampy OG said:

The MicroAir can handle 4 zones. 

Yes, but that post refers to using the MicroAir with both OLD and NEW Penguin AC's.

It may be the newest and smartest technology for AC's but I don't think it is THAT smart.


Onan 7500 Cooling Sensor
NAMVET77

MHRookie,

Yea I noticed I put the original post in the wrong section.  It really hurts getting old!!  Your description sounds good.  I'll have to hit up HD to see what I can get.  I thought about cutting out a section of the exhaust heat shield and rivet it back in place.   That would be an easy fix if I was at home.  At least I have a drip pan to catch any coolant that leaks out.  I'll give it a try as soon as I get all the tools I need.  Thanks for the info.

vanwill52,

When I talked to tech service at Cummins, they said if the sensor is shorted the system senses an overheat situation so it would only run for a minute.  I did change the fuel filter and before I tried to start the gen an primed it 5 times for 30 seconds. Then I tried to start it.  It ran great for 58 seconds.  Tried it several more times and same results.  That's when I decided to change the sensor.  Now I get to fix it.  YEA!!!!


High fuel pressure (never saw that before)!!!
jacwjames

Van,

I did install a separate return line but didn't have any extra holes and put a Tee in the tank vent line hole and added the FASS return there.   I mounted my FASS pump in the propane tank compartment passenger side.   The return shouldn't be restricting the engine return line.

From now on I'm not going to let the engine idle for an extended time.  Not sure what happens when I get stuck in traffic though.  I was driving through the outskirts of Detroit last week and it was most stop / go traffic for about 1/2 hour. 


High fuel pressure (never saw that before)!!!
vanwill52
3 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

Van,

I did install a separate return line but didn't have any extra holes and put a Tee in the original return from the engine and just add the FASS return there.   I mounted my FASS pump in the propane tank compartment passenger side. 

From now on I'm not going to let the engine idle for an extended time.  Not sure what happens when I get stuck in traffic though.  I was driving through the outskirts of Detroit last week and it was most stop / go traffic for about 1/2 hour. 

You probably have your FASS pump energized indirectly by the ignition switch, so there is no EASY way to disable it while running.  If you could disable it at idling (when it is not needed) that might satisfy your curiosity.  If you ever figure it out, please let us know.


Onan 10K & 12K oil filter replacement.
Ivylog

Changing the oil in my Onan 10K with a Kubota engine. Balked at the $30-$40 prices for a 187-1000 filter and decided to look in my shop for one. Had a Kubota HH1C0-42430 on the shelf and other than being slightly longer it’s a exact replacement. EBay has it for less than $15 and Amazon for $19.

Going to scratch the # on and hours on the filter as it’s only on the wrapper.0882F4D0-93BD-4542-8F3E-1D5DCC2B1D4A.thumb.png.7e57d1a2877932513e79e20d89295a1c.png


No low beams, just high beams 2002 Dynasty
Patrick

Thanks all for your help. Much appreciated.
 

I checked power to P1 on J12 connector and had 12 volts. Checked P2 on J12 with the headlight switch on and off. When the switch is on (pulled out) I have 12 volts at P2. That seems to be working as it should. Yes?
 

Then I checked power across one of the low beam connectors. Power was 12 volts, so I seem to have power to the headlights. 
 

Pulled the bulb on one side. It looks possibly burnt out. Could be just a bulb issue? 
 

I just got this rig last week and cannot confirm if the low beams worked when I bought it or not. 


2009 Dynasty 500 ISM Low Coolant Level check engine light
ken.knutson100
5 hours ago, vito.a said:

Wow, you got one of the last big Monaco coaches.  What a find.

Is it a 2 or 1 wire sensor?

If a 2 wire, try connecting the 2 wires directly and see if the light resets.  If a 1 wire, try grounding it and see if it resets.  

Hope you get it.  

 

Actually is a 3 wire one?

4D7F443A-CA37-4FEF-9FE9-080C2FFDC2FD.thumb.jpeg.9c4d1e31a34a671ba4f4bb158636598d.jpeg 
And we are selling it to get a smaller rv we can pull the boat with so we can get in and out of boat landings 


Micro-air Thermostat
Grampy OG
2 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Yes, but that post refers to using the MicroAir with both OLD and NEW Penguin AC's.

It may be the newest and smartest technology for AC's but I don't think it is THAT smart.

Thank you for the clarification. I missed that fact. I did not realize that the new/old were not still daisy chained to the same thermostat. I learn something new everyday. Just out of interest does that mean if somebody blew an original a/c they had to replace both or are the old ones still being sold?

 


Heated Floor no power 2009 Dynasty
ken.knutson100

The front heated floor control has no power. Doesn’t even show off on the lcd screen. The rear heated floor shows on. It’s worked before but it’s been awhile since I’ve used it. Am I missing something? 
 

8139CA6C-2BE8-4287-8A78-84B28EBC70FB.jpeg

3BF7ACEB-E725-4ED3-9EDD-F5E666271720.jpeg


Heated Floor no power 2009 Dynasty
John Haggard

Did you check ✔ your AC  breaker box 

They are marked 


Inverter Issue
jacwjames

So the bathroom/bedroom GFCI circuit is the one that is causing me a problem.  I checked the circuit and there is a short to ground.  So I pulled each of the individual outlets and can only guess as to the actual routing at this point.  The last outlet in the daisy chain is the one labeld 6S2 left hand side of the bed.  The two next to the bed are fed through a Jbox under the bed.  What's strange is that there are extra wires coming into the Jbox and all are attached to the single romex wire going to the right had side of the bed. 

Above the engine next to the surge tank there is another Jbox that feeds the Jbox under the bed.  Again there are extra wires coming in here, no idea where they originate as there are not any circuits behind the main service or inverter sub panel with the same color wires which are yellow and orange.  Anyone have any idea what these wires are for and where they originate.. 

So tomorrow I am going to break the daisy chain in half and test both sides to try and narrow the problem area. 


Inverter Issue
vanwill52
2 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

So the bathroom/bedroom GFCI circuit is the one that is causing me a problem.  I checked the circuit and there is a short to ground.  So I pulled each of the individual outlets and can only guess as to the actual routing at this point.  The last outlet in the daisy chain is the one labeld 6S2 left hand side of the bed.  The two next to the bed are fed through a Jbox under the bed.  What's strange is that there are extra wires coming into the Jbox and all are attached to the single romex wire going to the right had side of the bed. 

Above the engine next to the surge tank there is another Jbox that feeds the Jbox under the bed.  Again there are extra wires coming in here, no idea where they originate as there are not any circuits behind the main service or inverter sub panel with the same color wires which are yellow and orange.  Anyone have any idea what these wires are for and where they originate.. 

So tomorrow I am going to break the daisy chain in half and test both sides to try and narrow the problem area. 

Yeah, the "daisy-chaining" can definitely be confusing.  My problem with my vanity outlet has nothing to do with your problem.  I just think it was a poor choice to use push-in connections in an application where there is constant vibration and movement.  It's not a big deal to change them ALL out, and that's probably what I should have already done, instead of only replacing them one by one.

Glad your trip went "relatively" OK.  There is almost no such thing as a trip with "no issues", although I busted my arse to be sure I would not have issues on the Alaska trip...and it paid off.  The oldest coach in that caravan in 2016 was the ONLY one that had NO issues.  We do what we can...

Bless you, my Brother.


Onan 10K & 12K oil filter replacement.
Chargerman

I get mine from NAPA for about $8. I change my oil and filter much sooner than what Onan recommends as I don’t put a lot of hours on the generator but I change it at least every other year. If I put a good amount of hours on it in a season then I change it yearly. Oil and filters are cheap insurance 


Inverter Issue
jacwjames

I spent a lot of time going over the coach prior to the trip.  Can't really complain overall.  Luckily the problem with the electrical happen toward the end and I was able to get home. 

I'll get it fixed, just another bump in the road.

 

FWIW- we bought our coach in Dec 08, the day I put the down payment down I got notice that the mines I was working at were shutting down.  I worked until March 09.  In May I told my wife we were going to AK and left Jun 1 and was on the road 3 1/2 month.   Although I had a decent background in diesel heavy equipment I was somewhat clueless as to the working of a DP.  Luckily no real problems, put on almost 15K miles. 


Inverter Issue
vanwill52
7 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

I spent a lot of time going over the coach prior to the trip.  Can't really complain overall.  Luckily the problem with the electrical happen toward the end and I was able to get home. 

I'll get it fixed, just another bump in the road.

 

FWIW- we bought our coach in Dec 08, the day I put the down payment down I got notice that the mines I was working at were shutting down.  I worked until March 09.  In May I told my wife we were going to AK and left Jun 1 and was on the road 3 1/2 month.   Although I had a decent background in diesel heavy equipment I was somewhat clueless as to the working of a DP.  Luckily no real problems, put on almost 15K miles. 

Bought mine in April 2013, from two SAINTS...Bob and Sue Hought.  Spent a lot of time on pre-emptive maintenance, then doubled down in 2016 just before five of us coaches left for AK.  It was the trip of a lifetime.  I came to faith on that trip, largely thanks to Tom and Paula Moore, Bob and Pam Nodine, and Craig and Angie French.  And made friends to last a lifetime.

I've been aggravated many times with what I see as poor engineering and quality control in my coach, but it has repaid me 100X over in life experiences that I treasure.  I'm soon to be 72, and don't see the day I "hang up the keys" just yet, but I know it's coming.  Thanks to Dave Pratt and Sandy, Scottie and Deb, Paul Whittle and Barb, and so many others who have made my "motor home journey" the high point of my life.  I'm not the greatest tech that ever graced this forum, but I've always felt a desire to help others solve problems and hope that they get from their experiences what I got from mine.  God bless you all!


Onan 10K & 12K oil filter replacement.
Chargerman

Me too. I guess my recollection on pricing was a bit off


No low beams, just high beams 2002 Dynasty
Patrick
On 7/30/2021 at 4:30 PM, Mocephus said:

I had the same issue with burnt contacts at the SW board. With the help from others here, here is the solution I implemented:
 

image.thumb.jpeg.e8202fc641f1950b7588fca8fef1d11d.jpeg
 

Thanks for your help. Much appreciated.
 

I checked power to P1 on J12 connector and had 12 volts. Checked P2 on J12 with the headlight switch on and off. When the switch is on (pulled out) I have 12 volts at P2. That seems to be working as it should. Yes?
 

Then I checked power across one of the low beam connectors. Power was 12 volts, so I seem to have power to the headlights. 
 

Pulled the bulb on one side. It looks possibly burnt out. Could be just a bulb issue? 
 

I just got this rig last week and cannot confirm if the low beams worked when I bought it or not. 


Heated Floor no power 2009 Dynasty
jcavataio5255

Hi Ken , Can you hear any relays randomly clicking? from your Automatic Energy select switches? (P/N 00-00714-00)  not sure where they are in your coach maybe in the rear closet assuming you have one? Or possibly under the floor in the back somewhere?

If you do, it could be a bad Automatic energy switch! I just had the same problem.

John C

2009 Navagator 

image.jpg


Heated Floor no power 2009 Dynasty
ken.knutson100
1 hour ago, John Haggard said:

Did you check ✔ your AC  breaker box 

They are marked 

I did but didn’t see any breakers tripped? They should both show up on the LCD display  even if off correct? And not you have to have the AC off or rear one on (which neither made a difference)? 

7 minutes ago, jcavataio5255 said:

Hi Ken , Can you hear any relays randomly clicking? from your Automatic Energy select switches? (P/N 00-00714-00)  not sure where they are in your coach maybe in the rear closet assuming you have one? Or possibly under the floor in the back somewhere?

If you do, it could be a bad Automatic energy switch! I just had the same problem.

John C

2009 Navagator 

image.jpg

Umm..yes!!! I do!! I was wondering what that was!  Exactly what is going on! Where do you get one of those? We are selling the coach and will need to get it fixed before selling. And I’m guessing it isn’t cheap?! 😬 

edited: I just looked on eBay and they are under $100 so that’s not bad at all considering I paid $2700 to get the cruise fixed on it because this coach has the Kong chassis control box and not the VIP one  that is readily available! 😡


Replacing interior Pot Light Bulbs
Patrick

How does one replace these pot lights? I have one that is not working. Do you pull off or unscrew the cover ring?

Anybody know what the replacement bulb is?

Absolute Newbie here. CED36FC4-E665-48F6-BDDD-48296BB0F07C.thumb.jpeg.23f7b6ed3eeff72eb6191579339f3f87.jpeg


Heated Floor no power 2009 Dynasty
jcavataio5255

Ken, 

I bought mine off Amazon 

B2CA47F8-3461-4306-9B6A-AD7C306D96FC.png


Replacing interior Pot Light Bulbs
HarleyR

Grab the glass and turn counter clockwise. Use a jar lid grip cloth to get a decent grip if needed. The bulb is a halogen two prong. I replaced the 37 bulbs in mine with LEDs. 


Inverter Issue
Cubflyer

Jim,

Good to hear you are getting to the root of your problem.... and if I understand correctly, your Generator was shutting down due to the overload (short) in the coach...

Good knowledge to have.... could have spent a lot of time and effort fixing a generator that had no (direct) problem.

Hope you get your villain's worked out.... I'm confident you will..!

Take care,

Ken

 


Heated Floor no power 2009 Dynasty
ken.knutson100
9 minutes ago, jcavataio5255 said:

Ken, 

I bought mine off Amazon 

B2CA47F8-3461-4306-9B6A-AD7C306D96FC.png

Thank you! That’s exactly what it did now! Thank for the help too!! I would never have figured this out on my own! And that clicking would have just kept going on! It affects the battery charging too I think because the charger voltage kept going down every time the clicking would happen. And of course the lights would dim 

Now if I can just get the low coolant sensor tho v figured out 🤷🏻‍♂️


Replacing interior Pot Light Bulbs
Land Lubber

Harley....Two questions.....do these bulbs just pull straight out & are the LED's you used dimmable as are the halogen bulbs? I understand that the new bubs should be handled with a tissue rather than touching them directly.


Replacing interior Pot Light Bulbs
cbr046

Right.  Avoid skin contact as the skin oils can crack the glass when heated by the bulb (so they say).  And most LEDs aren't dimable (not sure why). 

- bob


No low beams, just high beams 2002 Dynasty
ktloah

Check the J12 plug at the smart wheel controller and see of P1 and P2 are burnt...if they are not you should be ok.


Gen Auto Start
tmw188

You guys have helped me out with many things since getting this coach so here is another. Do I, or do I not have auto gen start? So I have some labeling in different locations of being careful and aware of the coach having auto start. On my inverter controller I can scroll thru the settings and one of them is the gen auto start. When I select it to set it up I get no other display. So I hope I’m explaining that right because it’s been a few weeks since I looked at it. I wouldn’t think they would have the labeling if it wasn’t equipped with it. Now it’s been a few weeks but it might be possible that it says that it may be equipped with generator auto start.  What do you think?


Replacing interior Pot Light Bulbs
Land Lubber

I have one out in our '09 Camelot that we bought last year so I was "listening in" for an answer to Patrick's question as to what bulb is needed.


Inverter Issue
jacwjames

I was convinced it was my inverter, especially after talking with the Xantrex Tech support.

But calling the actual repair facility was worth the effort (and a shot in the dark).  Got the inverter hooked back up and all seems to be functioning correctly except for the one circuit that I have a problem with.

Not sure why the GFCI did not trip the circuit, that's another story.

I will will get it fixed one way or another.  Now that I have it narrowed down to one circuit it is just a  matter of time & effort. 

One of the reasons I post in detail is to try and help others.  A lot of times we'll hear of problems but never hear on the final resolution.  I always try and close out my posts. 


Replacing interior Pot Light Bulbs
Patrick
1 hour ago, HarleyR said:

Grab the glass and turn counter clockwise. Use a jar lid grip cloth to get a decent grip if needed. The bulb is a halogen two prong. I replaced the 37 bulbs in mine with LEDs. 

Thanks!


Gen Auto Start
Ivan K

If you have Trace inverter and your controller is RC7GS, try to set time first. If you have Magnum, someone else will help you.


Replacing interior Pot Light Bulbs
Gary M

I bought half of my 30+ led’s from cabin bright as a test as the 30+ I bought from Amazon died within two months. Its been over a year now and only two have failed. 100% guaranteed so soon I will test that and buy the rest.2FBE3BEA-16AD-47DE-89C7-09E18720E005.thumb.jpeg.7034e65078755fe86ade61fd3e2c37a6.jpeg


Gen Auto Start
tmw188
23 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

If you have Trace inverter and your controller is RC7GS, try to set time first. If you have Magnum, someone else will help you.

That’s what I have yes. I have the manual I just haven’t looked at it close enough with all the other things I’ve been figuring out. This is next in line.

A5572387-7363-4A13-ACBA-072A5CB2AD70.png


Gen Auto Start
Ivan K

Then you have gen start. I believe to remember that for it to work, you have to set time of day first so it know when your quiet time starts/ends. That is at the end of the menu and then you just scroll through it again and set the AGS parameters.


AGS questions
Brett63

Where do they typically hide the AGS module for an 09 Sig?

Next question, I am running my AGS (well trying to) and have set to start on VDC set at 11v. the Gen come on, runs prescribed time and turns off, a couple minutes later it starts back up and does the same. When I go to Tech on the Magnum remote on within the AGS I am only reading 6.4v which is the reason it constantly thinks it is below voltage. So why am I only showing 6.4v coming in? 


Passenger side won't air up. : (
Dennis H

2005 Executive 45PBQ, Air levelers, no jacks. HWH system. As some of you know, we bought a home in SD and have been living in the coach for the past four months while we rehab the new (to us) home. Now that we are finished and moved into the new home, I decided it's time to move the coach from in front of the garage onto the property. Closed everything up and fired up the coach to move it. No joy! The right side wouldn't air up. After playing with it some, I got her moved onto the property next to the barn.  But, the right side still won't air up. I lost most of my hearing in a service related accident so I can't really tell if there's an air leak. Wife says she 'thinks' she can hear leakage near the rear dual on the passenger side. So, I'll try to describe what happens: Start the coach at high idle and air it up til the governor hisses. Press 'travel mode' on the HWH system. Left side airs up, right side does not. Press stop on HWH control panel. Press 'air' twice to go into leveling mode and coach levels as it should and HWH shuts off. I moved the coach with partially filled bags to keep the coach somewhat level yet watching to ensure the front tires didn't touch the fender wells. Got it parked. I'm assuming there are solenoids that determine what is 'travel mode' and I'm thinking that solenoid may not be working, or there could be an air leak although the coach worked ok in our trip from AZ to SD. I did have a slide solenoid fail during that trip but it's been replaced and is working ok. Could they be related? I don't know. Open for suggestions and comments. Also looking for mobile mechanic recommendations in the Sioux Falls area. TIA....Dennis


Replacing interior Pot Light Bulbs
Dennis H

A couple of suggestions. First is the ring around the puck light is held on by tabs. Turning the ring will line up the tabs and the ring can be removed. The glass then is held in place by three small plastic tabs. Use caution not to break any of those tabs. When you press the tabs, make sure you don't drop the glass cover on the floor and break it. Just do things slowly. Now here's another 'tip'. If the ring is difficult to turn it might be 'stuck' to the ceiling material. Using the edge of a credit card, insert it under the ring and move it completely around the ring, then try to twist it. Also pushing upward while turning may make it easier. The bulbs are G4 bi pin halogen. I dislike the heat from the lamps so I changed all mine out to LEDs. If you want to use a dimmer you'll have to buy LED dimmable bulbs or stay with the halogen. I kept the halogen over the sofa and desk and changed out all the overheads. The issue with LEDs is size. Most are too long to fit the puck lights. The ones I purchased are in the link below. They are a hair longer than the halogens but they fit easily into the pucks with no modification. No flicker, and they are really bright. I tried the warm light and didn't like them so I went with the daylight ones.....hope this helps....Dennis

https://www.amazon.com/Halogen-Equivalent-Daylight-Non-dimmable-CHEERBEE/dp/B089R8HKH7/ref=sr_1_17_sspa?crid=1OSXDV7YL9BYR&dchild=1&keywords=g4+led+bulb+12v&qid=1627788872&sprefix=g4+%2Caps%2C236&sr=8-17-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyOENPWDE1V1c0TEVWJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDIzNTQ3M1VBRlFUNlZSSEg1NSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDg0NTEzMkhUUlo1MU4zRllBTSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=


Macerator pump
Dennis H

I've replaced several over the years as the cost of a new pump is comparable to the impeller/gasket replacement kit. Over the years though, I've learned several things:. One, keep the hair out of the shower using a strainer that can be cleaned out after the shower. Below is the one I use.  Also, yearly maintenance will keep your pump in excellent working order. They are easy to pop apart and clean the heads of debris. Finally, test the connection that powers the pump. On my Executive, they used undersized wiring which starved the pump causing them to fail. I finally replaced the factory 14 gauge wire with a straight shot 10 gauge and the pump purrs like a kitten now. I would not have another coach without one. The convenience and cleanliness are worth it to me. Also, my campsite only has to be within 100' of the bathroom for me to avoid waiting in line at the dump station. Below is the shower strainer I use and the pump I purchased.....Dennis

Macerator pump~ https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GCH3N6Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Stainless-Steel-Mesh-Sink-Strainer-Kitchen-Bath-Hair-Catcher-Trap-Drain-Filter.jpg_640x640.jpg


Replacing interior Pot Light Bulbs
Dennis H
6 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

12 dollars a pop is expensive! 12 X 44 = $528.00 plus tax !!! Bulbs are 14 bucks for 10. Wow!


Take I-40 or I-70 you asked?
Dennis H

I've experienced the shoulder passers a few times in Texas. And they didn't really fly by, just mosied on down the road about 5 mph faster than I was going. Waved as they passed. I waved back but only used one finger....Dennis


Replacing interior Pot Light Bulbs
Patrick

Awesome help! Thanks everyone!

51 minutes ago, Dennis H said:

A couple of suggestions. First is the ring around the puck light is held on by tabs. Turning the ring will line up the tabs and the ring can be removed. The glass then is held in place by three small plastic tabs. Use caution not to break any of those tabs. When you press the tabs, make sure you don't drop the glass cover on the floor and break it. Just do things slowly. Now here's another 'tip'. If the ring is difficult to turn it might be 'stuck' to the ceiling material. Using the edge of a credit card, insert it under the ring and move it completely around the ring, then try to twist it. Also pushing upward while turning may make it easier. The bulbs are G4 bi pin halogen. I dislike the heat from the lamps so I changed all mine out to LEDs. If you want to use a dimmer you'll have to buy LED dimmable bulbs or stay with the halogen. I kept the halogen over the sofa and desk and changed out all the overheads. The issue with LEDs is size. Most are too long to fit the puck lights. The ones I purchased are in the link below. They are a hair longer than the halogens but they fit easily into the pucks with no modification. No flicker, and they are really bright. I tried the warm light and didn't like them so I went with the daylight ones.....hope this helps....Dennis

https://www.amazon.com/Halogen-Equivalent-Daylight-Non-dimmable-CHEERBEE/dp/B089R8HKH7/ref=sr_1_17_sspa?crid=1OSXDV7YL9BYR&dchild=1&keywords=g4+led+bulb+12v&qid=1627788872&sprefix=g4+%2Caps%2C236&sr=8-17-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyOENPWDE1V1c0TEVWJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDIzNTQ3M1VBRlFUNlZSSEg1NSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMDg0NTEzMkhUUlo1MU4zRllBTSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Super useful help. Thank you!


Macerator pump
Paul Busch

Dennis,

Thanks for the input. My 05 sig had a SANICON macerator when I bought it used and worked great for 5 years. Started full timing last year and quit working. It is positioned in the center of the coach and really hard to get to. I used the dump hose all winter when we had a full hookup. I managed to get the front off and it was plugged with hair. I don’t think I can remove the original pump without removing the 50 amp power reel and not interested in tackling that now. I thought since it was 15+ I would just put in a new pump. Easy to install on the service bay floor and working great. Just seems noisy but maybe because it is right there instead of hid in the middle of the coach? I have spent the last 2 months bouncing from state park to state park without hookups and using dump stations. We now have a permanent summer home in my grandsons driveway and pumping into his sewer which is a refreshing change. We are not going to be big dry campers. I know the pump is the only thing for me here and working great now.

paulb


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