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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/504-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Roof
Hypoxia
Electrical Issue
Dr4Film
Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY
Alternator replaced now out again
Dr4Film
Outside temperatures
dandick66
Alternator replaced now out again
wayne.cerven@gmail.com
Alternator replaced now out again
Wblakepa
Electrical Issue
ncjimgr
Dynasty tires 295/80
Twomed
Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY
I looked, can't find.......
Gary 05 AMB DST
Dynasty tires 295/80
Rich Cutler
Electrical Issue
Tom Cherry
New tires coming..........
FishAR
Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY
New tires coming..........
Paul A.
Alternator replaced now out again
waterskier_1
Electrical Issue
ncjimgr
Roof
Paul A.
Roof
Pepperell
Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY
Electrical Issue
jacwjames
Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY
Oil blowback at Oil fill tube ISL400
mandms59
Electrical Issue
ncjimgr
Electrical Issue
coastal_front
1998 Dynasty switch label
Gary M
ABC ATC Camera gone wild
KevinH
ABC ATC Camera gone wild
Frank Bergamo
ABC ATC Camera gone wild
KevinH
Awnings Won't Come In, Important
FishAR
ABC ATC Camera gone wild
cbr046
Front and Rear Air bag part numbers
gdroberson
stop engine light
drewat2
Electrical Issue
Larry H
stop engine light
John Haggard
Roof
woodylmiller
Side view cameras
woodylmiller

New Posts

Roof
Hypoxia
7 hours ago, cbr046 said:

Mine has 2.5 cups.  Wish I could just replace the cups for like 5 bucks.  I've tugged on the cups to see if they'd come off the shaft and nada. 

- bob

 

Should be a set screw holding it on.


Electrical Issue
Dr4Film
9 hours ago, LJPierce_ELY said:

I saw that. Problem is, I am hooked up to 50 amp and prior to my mucking around with the breakers, the LED next to 50 amp was lit yet the large digital display in the middle was dark. I played around with the breakers again, along with everything else including the inverter, and now that display is back to reading 50amp service, middle display is dark, and everything on the right is lit up as well.

As stated previously when hooked to 50 amp shore power there will be NO amp's displayed, the middle display will be dark.

I would start with the transfer switch and if that doesn't solve the problem then move on to the Inverter which is FAR more expensive than the transfer switch.

Camping World will charge you an arm & leg for the ESCO Transfer Switch. Google the part for the best price. Most recent pricing has it around $180.


Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY

I did not see that.


Alternator replaced now out again
Dr4Film

Take the new one back and ask him to rebuild your old one with NEW Leece-Neville Parts.


Outside temperatures
dandick66

I am wondering if I need to add the foam insulation to my 3 rooftop units?  As you can see, the condensers do not have the foam insulation, but since everything else is encased in sheet metal I don't know if the insulation is required.  The cover has both top and side vents, too.  These are Coleman/Airxcel units.  Looking for advice/recommendations.  Thanks.

Dan D       

2012 Diplomat 43 DFT

PXL_20210729_121806614.jpg

PXL_20210729_121826616.jpg


Alternator replaced now out again
wayne.cerven@gmail.com

We should have a Monaco top 10 !

- Tires - every (so many years)

- Alternator - Rebuild only

- Max speed - 63 miles per hour

- Do not crawl under the coach unless you are qualified and have the correct supports

- Aqua hot - Service annually

- Do no top up motor with oil! It has reached its sweet spot,if it is low check for leaks or it probably needs to be serviced

- service annually,  no matter how much you use it

- if you want to own one of these rigs you better start putting a minimum of $ 600.00/ month into a coach fund, that is no joke ( for newbies)

Wayne

1999 Signature Caesar 


Alternator replaced now out again
Wblakepa

Check to see if the 'Duvac' is wired properly.  I had my alternator replaced last year and they wired the Duvac wrong.  Put the wires on the posts they fit, which was wrong.  Once we figured that out no problems.  Also learned to rebuild not replace.


Electrical Issue
ncjimgr

If your water heater and rear A/C unit is out (which are two items on the EMS system) I would look at the Intellitec board. I had my front A/C go out recently and the EMS display showed everything as OK, all lights green. When I removed the board, I could see the relay for the A/C burned on the circuit board. This has happened to me before as well. I called M & M Electronics (419-965-2662) and spoke with Chris. He confirmed that the board could be bad even though the lights on the display panel are all lighted. I ordered a replacement from them. Once installed, everything was OK. I was told that a 15KW A/C unit is at the high end of the amperage those boards can handle (15 amp) and they will burn out if pushed beyond those limits.

It is possible you have two burned relays, one for the A/C and one for the water heater. Worth pulling the board out and looking at the underside to see if there are any burned traces on the board. It will be pretty obvious!

JimG
2006 Camelot


Dynasty tires 295/80
Twomed

https://www.tiresdirect.net/catalog/category/view/s/commercial-tires/id/23/?cat=163

Big Chicago distributor...shipped to local shop, 3 months old.  Easy deal. 🙂


Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY

Where is the board located? Backside of the EMS display?

Would this also affect the AC plugs on the curb side?


I looked, can't find.......
Gary 05 AMB DST

In my 05 Ambassador owner's manual it gave a replacement time for the coolant filter. Couldn't locate the filter. While in Elkhart, stopped at the Roadmaster chassis factory and asked the manager about it. He told me that the EPA eliminated it for 2005 because it was a environmental hazard. Showed him the owner's manual and he said that the manual is carried over year to year, the elimination of the fuel filter was missed.

Gary 05 AMB DST


Dynasty tires 295/80
Rich Cutler

Are you staying away from Michelin for a reason?   I have used Michelin for every home, but did have a bad batch back in 98 with three blow outs (two rear and one front) before I got Michelin to agree to replace the last three.  I currently use Michelin.


Lost the low beams on my headlights...
milly59

i have exact same problem but cannot find a solution, my intermittent wipers stopped working...my flashers do not work...my hazards do not work...is it the controller box under the dash that is the culprit? Ktloah did you find the problem?


Electrical Issue
Tom Cherry

COUPLE OF THINGS....some I KNOW.....for a FACT....and some that I suspect...

First...  disconnect the shore power. TRIP OFF the Circuit breaker on the Genny (on the Genny's console). If you have a solar panel, then disconnect or the simplest is to put a quilt or tarp or cover on it.

Remove the cover (brown?) on your Intellitec Main Circuit Breaker Panel. Look on the RIGHT side. There is a printed circuit board. There are maybe 3 pigtails that you can easily pull off. There will be a small mini fuse.  Memory says 5 amps....but it may be lower like 3 but NOT more than 10.  This is the BRAIN for your Intellitec system. One you pull that....let it sit for a minute. There are TIMES that you get some stray currents and it messes up the "chip's clock". Powering down and doing a restart often fixes it. You have a "strange" reading on your system....and I will comment on that...

IMPORTANT....NOW, you can see all the terminal connections for the power. TIGHTEN EVERY LUG or TERMINAL in the panel. That includes the GROUNDS, the NEUTRAL (WHITE) and the Leads to EACH BREAKER and the MAIN BREAKER.  Look for evidence of oxidation or discoloration. If there is ANY, then any qualified electrician can help you.....

BTW, memory, and we lost our Windsor expert, says that you have GFCI Breakers in the Main Panel....and NOT a receptical. I will leave it to the Winsdor experts to pop in here.....NOW for the theory and ALSO the final troubleshooting steps....

The Intellitec monitors the Voltage as well as the "mode" of the Genny. I forget exactly HOW this works, but here is the original logic.

When you plug into a 30 amp source (pedestal) it is supposed to be only one side of a 220 VAC service. YES, we do NOT use 230 VAC....but when there is a 50 Amp Dual Pole breaker, you have 50 amps of power on Line 1 as well as Line 2....or in effect a total of 100 amps of service.

When you plug into a properly wired 30 amp circuit, then you only have Line 1....there is NO Line 2. There will only be 30 amps of service.

The Intellitec board reads Line 1 and Line 1. IF there is 230 VAC, then IT KNOWS....you have 50 amp service. If you only have 30 amps, there is NO voltage between Line 1 and Line 2.  SO, then the 30 amp light will come on. it is up to YOU, the owner to determine if it is a 20 amp or 30 amp service and push the button to toggle. The DEFAULT IS 30 as that is what will be the situation 99% of the time.

OK>>>>GOT ALL THAT?  NOW....when the Genny is running, there is a signal that goes to the Intellitec panel. GENNY ON means that you are SUPPOSED to have enough power NOT TO OVERLOAD. BUT, enterprising folks that plug in heaters don't know that. Bottom line, you only have 35 amps (memory) on Line 1 and Line 2. The 8KW Onan's are protected that way. NOW, that may be 30, again memory. BUT, it is NOT 230 VAC. It is TWO lines of 30 (35?). 

IF you have an IOTA, then YES, you can, assuming you have the skill set, BYPASS it....and put jumpers from the SHORE to the LOAD (Circuit Breaker) side. Technically, you can use a #10 wire for that....if you look at the internal wiring....the leads to the relays are smaller. BUT>>>>READ ON....DO NOT MESS WITH THE INTELLITEC.....do NOT reconnect....do a simple trouble shooting of the Inverter....it is in your manual.  I am NOT convinced that you need to do that.....HERE IS THE REST of the story..

Your TRACE is wired like the Magnums, which most folks have. However, it does NOT (I pulled your manual) have the TWO pin style EXTERNAL 20 Amp Breakers. BUT....on page 16 or so of the manual, there is a NOTE. There is an INTERNAL FUSE....it is a SLOW BLOW. Trace says there is a SPARE ONE inside the unit.  WITH THE POWER OFF....and the INVERTER Circuit Breaker (30 Amp) OFF.....

I would change out that fuse.  You can buy another one or call trace and get a part number.

THAT MAY be the issue....or may not. At least you have a GOOD fuse in place....

OK....now start to put things back together....carefully....

Reconnect the pigtails to the INTELLITEC Board. Replace the Fuse. Then PLUG IN to shore.  IF you TRACE has a SNAP SWITCH, it should be OFF.  If it is push or spring loaded one....then turn it OFF after you have power.  Let it SIT...say a minute. The Trace will do a self diagnostics when you start it up by turning it on. Look at the lights and read the manual.

There COULD be one other ISSUE....  Your Trace inverter has gone bad. The NORMAL mode for the inverter is to "transfer" power internally when you are on SHORE. Magnum says that the main boards eventually fail. Might be the same for Trace. After you do all your testing, if you still have issues, you COULD bypass the IOTA as I commented on. IF that does NOT cure it, assuming all the circuit breakers are OK, then problem is in the TRACE..

One FINAL STRAW OF DESPERATION.....TRACE warns about INTEFERENCE.....read the last section. If you still have Fluorescent fixtures, open them up and remove the tubes....DOUBTFUL...but they have interfered with electronics before....

 


New tires coming..........
FishAR

Got 7 new Hercules installed yesterday. One came with hole in the sidewall where a forklift had impaled it.

 

So I'm waiting for the 8th one. Just got a call that it could be a few weeks before they get one, but I'm not going anywhere anyhow.


Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY

Tom, that was one heck of a detailed write up. Many thanks. Lots to look at tonight.

It's so dang hot here in NV right now that I'm thinking of looking at the inverter and opening it up (after removing it of course).

There are a couple of GFC breakers in the bedroom breaker panels so not having a GFCI receptacle makes sense.

It really wouldn't surprise me to find an internal fuse was blown inside the inverter. When the system went out, I know I was using the convection function AND the rear Air Cond. was also running. Probably overloaded the L2 on the inverter. I say L2 because when I trip that breaker, nothing dies (probably because that circuit is already dead).

I've used the convection oven before but have to admit, this time the display on the oven really went dim, then off. Like I said, just like a breaker tripping. I don't recall using it when the rear Air Cond. has been running before this.

Anyway, thanks again for the detailed assist. I'll endeavor it this evening.


New tires coming..........
Paul A.

Any one who has purchased new tires that are a different brand or size, that you had, think about doing a re weigh of the coach to obtain, establish,  correct inflation for them,  from your  Tire Mfg. Inflation chart?


Alternator replaced now out again
waterskier_1

Having a hard time understand how you can have no charge and still have charged batteries.  Did you have another source of charging?  

I would start by measuring the voltage at the chassis battery when the engine is running.  If not over 14 Volts, check the voltage at the output of the alternator, right on the back of the alternator.  

If an incorrect alternator was installed, i.e., one without a DUVAC input, that would be a problem.  Also, I've found many times the alternators are wired incorrectly.  There are three wires, besides the huge cables for Pos & Neg output, that need to be connected correctly.  They are the ALT-FAIL circuit (also may feed the tach) which is often Gray, the Ignition wire (hot when the key is turned on) and the Voltage Sense wire which should be connected to the Chassis Battery.  


Electrical Issue
ncjimgr

The Intellitec board is located in the box where your main 120v breaker panel is. On my Camelot, the board is just below the breaker panel. Take the brown panel off and you will see it below the breaker set up.

JimG
2006 Camelot


Roof
Paul A.

Some folks have made the cups from ping pong balls. 


Roof
Pepperell

Plastic measuring spoons.  


Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY

The breaker panels are in the bedroom with another board that has spots for 25 dc fuses, of which 21 are used. I see nothing else there.

All the digital panels are forward, above the passenger seat, behind their own cabinet door.

I must be overlooking something.


Electrical Issue
jacwjames
11 minutes ago, LJPierce_ELY said:

The breaker panels are in the bedroom with another board that has spots for 25 dc fuses, of which 21 are used. I see nothing else there.

All the digital panels are forward, above the passenger seat, behind their own cabinet door.

I must be overlooking something.

The main service panel has a brown cover on it, you have to remove the cover and there should be a circuit board that slides into the box.  There are wires going from the main breakers to the circuit board, these are the circuits that are shed when hooked to a 30 amp circuit. 

If you are good with a multimeter I would check the two lines going to the 50 amp breaker, these are the wires that come from the transfer switch, both should have 120 volts on them.  If there is power on both of them then the transfer switch is good, if not the problem points to the circuit board.

It there is power on both of the above then check the power going the inverter, should be labeled as L1 & L2 Inverter.  If there is power there then I would take the cover off the inverter subpanel and check the power coming from the inverter.  The inverter, if it is an RV2012 Xantrex, it has internal transfer switches that will pass power through it.  If there is no power going to the inverter it will make power (invert from the batteries to 120 volt).  If the internal transfer switches are bad it will not make power. 


Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY

Thank you. I will take a look see this evening.


Oil blowback at Oil fill tube ISL400
mandms59

All,

Follow-Up/update to the Oil blow back issue.   I ended up being able to get into Cummings in Boise this last Monday.  They completed the routine Generator and Chassis service on the Coach (and gives me a baseline on oil - meaning my oil level should now be at correct level; have noted where that is on dipstick for future reference). 

I asked service manager to replace the crankcase breather element filter as I had no record of it being completed previously by other owners - and check/replace overflow tube for as I could not find it. I mentioned my issue about spitting oil back out oil filler tube, he said that could happen with a restricted crankcase filter/element.

The crankcase breather element was very dirty per tech who worked on MH. I also learned on my ISL400 there is no exterior breather tube - he explained the routing is internal back to crankcase/oil pan to meet EPA changes in mid 2000's .... hence my inability to find the dang tube when searching for it.

We only had a short drive to our next stop; everything seems fine so far - will know more next week when we have a longer drive to next stop including a few medium grades.

Again thanks to all here for their inputs.

V/r

Mark

 


Electrical Issue
ncjimgr

The board is just below the breaker panel. It has a green pilot light on it. The wires from the breakers go into this board then out into the coach to the various items the EMS controls. You have to remove the brown face plate to see the board and connections.

JimG
2006 Camelot


Electrical Issue
coastal_front

My '03 Camelot has a GFCI in the second cargo bay, passenger side mounted almost on the bay "ceiling". I doubt this is your problem but worth checking. It might also be your power cord or plug. The display picture shows 21 AMPS, the microwave may have caused it exceed 30 and trip something. I AM NOT an electrician or mechanic, just an old pilot who has seen too many strange malfunctions.


1998 Dynasty switch label
Gary M
13 hours ago, JDCrow said:

I don't suppose a copy of this manual is available in our downloads. Didn’t see it. My copy got water logged and I need a new one. Previous coach, not current one.


ABC ATC Camera gone wild
KevinH

I’ve looked on other forms and have read issues with the ABS and the ATC light coming on.  The other day I was having the same issue my ABC light was on the ATC light was on and my Aladdin engine status was going crazy. The camera would come on without hitting any buttons and it would switch from right to left then rear. I would switch it back to engine status drive another 5 miles and the camera would start going crazy again. I pulled over checked all the fuses got back in the RV was getting ready to get the book out turned it on and all the lights were out everything is working normally. I’ve driven it about another hundred miles and everything is normal. I’m getting ready for a long trip and if it does it again was wondering if anybody has had this issue. Thanks Kevin


Lost the low beams on my headlights...
Ivylog

If your Dip was made by Navastar the controller should be on the left wall of the front run box. Try cleaning the plug at the bottom of the steering column.


Replacing Norcold in slide with residential ( who has done this ? )
skyranchdanes

I want to do a follow-up on my original post.    I appreciate everyone's comments and suggestions.    

After further investigation, and checking on getting another door, we decided to try and 'fix' the door for the time being.     

We were able to get another metal hinge bracket, that is  attached to the refrigerator itself.   Although we didn't really need it as that was not the cause of the door falling off.    As others have found the failure of the door was the plastic on the door itself.    The cause was probably due to age and having too much weight in the door.   We fabricated metal to replace the plastic on the side.    I'm attaching pictures of both the failure, and our temporary  'fix'.    The door closed OK, but was a bit 'wobbly'   We discovered today that the door hangs just a bit lower than the left.    Looking at the old metal bracket,  there was a bushing and we moved that to the new bracket.   The  lower right hand side door. still hangs a bit lower.     Once we get back to our home base in 2 months we'll take a closer look at the doors and compare them when we can remove them.    A residential refrigerator will still be considered when we have the time and resources ( man-power ) to replace it.   Where we are at our summer location doesn't lend itself to replacement at this time unless we have a  catastrophic failure.   We are limited to what we can replace it with due to the Norcold in a slide with low ceiling height.

Again, I do appreciate all the suggestions.

Regards,

Pat D.

’02 Diplomat 40’ PBT

 

 

RHS door .jpeg

RHS door fix.jpeg


ABC ATC Camera gone wild
Frank Bergamo

Kevin,

have you changed your fuel filters lately? This has been discussed recently on this forum. 


Elkhart (LPT50BRD 50 Amp Automatic Transfer Switch
drewat2

Is this a good replacement for the IOTA ATS? Specs. call out that it is an ESCO LPT50-BRD with pretty solid reviews. 

Thanks

Drew


ABC ATC Camera gone wild
KevinH

Yes I did replace my fuel filter and had to replace the cable going from the filter to the plug-in because through the years people taking the filter off wrong. the wires got all twisted up and started shorting out


Elkhart (LPT50BRD 50 Amp Automatic Transfer Switch
drewat2

OK, I've read through ALL the discussion on this subject on our site. WOW! Now I get why lots of looking but not responding. So all that being said I'm going with the the ESCO switch. Already have the Progressive's HW50 on the incoming shore. 

Good stuff as always

Drew


“Furnace” mode doesn’t show up on 5 button Comfort Controllers
daveyjo

I bought a used 2005 HR Scepter in 2019, and one of my furnaces wouldn't show up.  Turns out the dip switches needed to be SET.  As I recall, I accessed them from inside the coach.  But it was clear that the factory in 2005 had never set them, as the user's manual was still stuffed inside the furnace on the outside and probably would have started a fire if the furnace had EVER been use.  The coach had spent its life in Southern California and Phoenix, so I guess no one ever wanted heat???  FYI.


Elkhart (LPT50BRD 50 Amp Automatic Transfer Switch
FishAR
1 hour ago, drewat2 said:

Is this a good replacement for the IOTA ATS? Specs. call out that it is an ESCO LPT50-BRD with pretty solid reviews. 

Thanks

Drew

Following, they're on sale at amazon for $208.


Awnings Won't Come In, Important
FishAR

Went back down to the shop today to mess with the awnings and maybe finally change the generator fuel filter, oil and oil filter, and air filter.

Problem with the awnings was simple. Too simple.

They run off chassis batteries and the chassis batteries were dead. Why they're pulling juice is the next thing I need to figure out.
Got them on my charger now.

Also need to figure out how to charge them from shore power.

Maybe I'll finally get around to doing all the generator maintenance tomorrow.


Elkhart (LPT50BRD 50 Amp Automatic Transfer Switch
drewat2

That's what I purchased

 


ABC ATC Camera gone wild
cbr046

Maybe clip an ohm meter on the wires going to that fuel filter plug (water sensor?) and start wiggling wires, in case that plug / wire repair wasn't up to par . . . . but with all that going on I doubt that's the problem. 

In my case only the ATC light started coming on.  I don't have an Aladdin system.  Also, the light would come on as more throttle was applied.  At first only a flicker of ATC light then a thousand or two miles later it only needed slight throttle for the ATC light to go solid.  I only changed the primary fuel filter, where the wire / sensor is on the secondary fuel filter (2003 HR Endeavor / Cummins ISC / Roadmaster RR8R). 

Good luck,

- bob


Front and Rear Air bag part numbers
gdroberson

the part no. are right but they  are firestone no. and I just ordered them and they are back ordered until sometime in september


stop engine light
drewat2

End of this story. J-B Weld made the surge tank leak manageable, this allowed us to get North out of the stupid hot temperatures. Once we get back home in Eastern Wa. purchased a new steel surge tank and low level sensor. Had Cummins coach care near me install the new tank/sensor, drain, flush & fill the radiator along with our annual maintenance on engine & generator. Doesn't look like I did damage according to Cummins. Engine temp. now hangs right at 175deg F. 

A happy ending (except for the wallet). 

 


Electrical Issue
Larry H

I am sorry I did not see this earlier. It seems like the exact same problem I had several years ago. I thought it was likely a bad inverter but it was a bad 50 amp cord running to the coach. One of the hot wires was broken so I only had one of the 2 50 amp circuits working. With a multimeter, check the pedestal to see if you have 110 volts on each of the two circuits. Then check to see if you have 110 on each of the two circuits where it plugs into the RV (assuming I’d does plug in). If it does not unplug and see if you have continuity on each of your positive wires and where that circuit connects to your 2 50 amp breakers. In any case you only have half of your 110 plugs working, 1/2 of your ACs, and half of your other appliances. Trace and see where the power ends. Hope this is helpful.


stop engine light
John Haggard
14 minutes ago, drewat2 said:

End of this story. J-B Weld made the surge tank leak manageable, this allowed us to get North out of the stupid hot temperatures. Once we get back home in Eastern Wa. purchased a new steel surge tank and low level sensor. Had Cummins coach care near me install the new tank/sensor, drain, flush & fill the radiator along with our annual maintenance on engine & generator. Doesn't look like I did damage according to Cummins. Engine temp. now hangs right at 175deg F. 

A happy ending (except for the wallet). 

 

Fantastic 


Awnings Won't Come In, Important
Ivylog

Turn the charger on… button on your inverter/charger remote.


“Furnace” mode doesn’t show up on 5 button Comfort Controllers
saflyer
3 hours ago, daveyjo said:

I bought a used 2005 HR Scepter in 2019, and one of my furnaces wouldn't show up.  Turns out the dip switches needed to be SET.  As I recall, I accessed them from inside the coach.  But it was clear that the factory in 2005 had never set them, as the user's manual was still stuffed inside the furnace on the outside and probably would have started a fire if the furnace had EVER been use.  The coach had spent its life in Southern California and Phoenix, so I guess no one ever wanted heat???  FYI.

The heat pump worked before the roof resealing. I don’t see how the dip switch could have been changed during that work but I will check it out when I get home.

 

Ed

’05 HR Ambassador 


No low beams, just high beams 2002 Dynasty
Patrick

Ok. It turns out that both bulbs were burnt out. Easy fix. 
 

Thank you to everyone for their help. I learned a lot for future reference. 


Elkhart (LPT50BRD 50 Amp Automatic Transfer Switch
Scotty Hutto

Yes, that’s a good replacement for the Iota. There’s a really good thread discussing pros and cons, with some great tips from @Tom Cherry on installing the LPT50BRD


Roof
woodylmiller

Empty egg shell halves and super glue.

Woody Miller


Side view cameras
woodylmiller

Update.  Out of the blue TadiBrothers contacted me today by phone.  They got the dispute from the credit card company.  Almost a month of no contact from them.  I gave up on them.  I bought two side view cameras from Rear View Safety.  Excellent company.  Customer service was great.  There was some mix up on their end and the cameras I wanted were not available any longer.  To make things right the over knighted by FedEx to get me the cameras.  Couldn't ask for anything more.  Plus follow ups to make sure I was pleased with the purchase.  They sure weren't the cheapest source, but the cameras look great.  I must remember; "don't go broke trying to save a buck".

Back to TadiBrothers.  I have disputed all charges with them since I thought they had gone south.  I have 3 curbside and 1 roadside camera to return to them.  I will never do business with that company again and I would advise all of you to steer clear.  They would like to blame all their troubles on the rona, I get it, but enough was enough, their customer no-service was bullcrap.  A month?  Really?

Woody Miller


Electrical Issue
Martinvz

We just joined the forum although we have had the coach for 6 years and we are loving it. Thanks for allowing us to join.

Thanks for the detailed explanation earlier in the thread.

We recently determined that we had no power to the rear A/C and traced it to the Intellitec 760 controller. There is no visible damage to the board. Right now the rear A/C circuit is not connected to the board. This should not be a problem as we will have a 50A power connection for our next camping trip. I had help from Jeff Malatesta (rvdiagnostics.com). Jeff did some research and advised to buy the 760 with the upgrade kit. I just purchased one from rvpartsexpress.com (thanks for the recommendation). Jeff's advice is to use the upgrade kit as they are making use of better components (beefier). In addition, the included current sensor ring should be used to replace the existing sensor ring as the new components are matched.

The price for the Upgrade kit is about $372 while the best we could find for the original board is $338. For the small price increase I will definitely settle for the upgrade kit.

Jeff mentioned that the relays are normally open for the circuits but for the 2 A/Cs the relay is normally closed. I am not able to verify this and accept it based on his knowledge.

Happy glamping.


Roof
davesworld

Here at images I don’t see any wires

C7EE1609-45E0-4F09-8376-1A98BFF92746.jpeg

25E1B814-0D68-4F68-898D-94405087280E.jpeg


Convert Batwing antenna to hold a wifi/ cellular antenna.
vanwill52
On 8/3/2021 at 9:44 PM, woodylmiller said:

Vanwill52, I have a Cradlepoint 600 cell router, AT&T data sim in it.  So I'm wondering, how does adding this antenna help?  When we have cell service the Cradlepoint alone works well with streaming movies and such.  I get very confused with all the gear involved with trying to get good internet connections.  Judging by Poynting, I need the MIMO-3-15 antenna.  Is this a cell booster?  We currently have a cell booster multidirectional antenna that is not worth more than a cow patty, if you know what I mean.  So, should I go with a Poynting MIMO antenna, would it be able to take a weak cell signal and increase it to a useable level?  Sorry, I just don't know much about this tech stuff.  Thanks,

Woody Miller

Woody, my results with adding a WeBoost external antenna (only about 9" tall with protruding "spikes") and the WeBoost amplifier cradle in which to rest my existing Verizon MiFi:

Performance was noticeably improved over simply placing the MiFi in one of the coach's windows.  But the Poynting MIMO antenna feeding an expensive Cradlepoint (BR9000?) router showed no improvement over the MiFi setup.  I even connected the Cradlepoint to my laptop with an Ethernet cable, eliminating any WiFi losses--still no improvement.

I am baffled by this disappointing result, since someone who appeared very knowledgeable on iRV2 showcased this type installation and got impressive results.  Sorry, but I'm not a cell-phone nor WiFi guru, and I cannot give you an explanation for why this setup could not outperform a much less expensive setup.  If you are happy with your setup, don't change it.  I was trying simply to get a better Internet connection, allowing me to work remotely.  I was unsuccessful.


RR8S chassis leaning on air bags after shutdown
ok-rver

New to us 2004 HR Scepter, RR8S chassis, 8 air bags. Picked up this Monday and once in storage bay, MH driver side lowered many inches in a few hours time. Very noticeable lean.  I believe that the coach was always on its hydraulic jacks at the dealership and did not notice this. Did not really notice any air hiss. Did some research early this morning and only got to the air dump valves could be rebuilt with new o-rings b4 our internet went down. Spent day at coach working on little things. Installed a 7" monitor on dash that is dedicated to the Aladdin system. Seems to be working great and will write up the install.  Before lunch, I decided to bleed the air tanks and air bags down. Drained system to around 30 psi twice, recharged to 120 psi and left for lunch. Some settling of driver side during the next 4 hours, maybe 1/3 of the settling that occured yesterday afternoon. 

I have one ride height valve for the front axle and left/right for the rear axle.  My assumption is that the driver side rear pair of air bags is bleeding down. I think that means the leak is on the air bag side of the leveling valve. As the front has only one leveler valve, the air will transfer from driver to passenger side and tilt based on the rear bleed down. Is this a good assumption?

Slid under coach and looked at rear leveling valves. First big surprise is that air lines are in the 1/4" range. I had expected much bigger. There is what appears to be the tank supply going to the leveling valve on the side towards center and 4 lines connected to tees on the discharge. Each corner has two air bags so two line. I figure a line goes up to the air dump valve. Maybe I miss counted because I haven't come up were the 4th line would go.  I thought I saw the dump valves mounted high above the differential by following an air line but when I looked at the front axle, it was easy to see that the similar front valve I was looking at had a big, maybe 5/8" line going to the disc caliper. probably looking at the wrong valve.

Can some one give me a heads up on what the air dump valve will look like. Is there a repair kit or someone selling o-rings?

I picked up a bunch of 2x12 short pieces on the way home to see if I can get the coach up 3" or 4.5" tomorrow to feel better under the frame. 

As I said, I didn't hear hissing earlier. As I was pulling tools out to go home, I noticed an air leak hissing at the front.  Dropped from 120 psi to 90 psi in 10 minutes or so, both tanks. Recharged air and slid under with a spray bottle of simple green (what I had available) and sprayed most of the fittings with not any bubbles. There is a lot of stuff hanging low under the coach at the front so could not get hands on to the tank and lines. I expect the 2 X 12s will help raise it up so I can see.

The tank has two approx 3/8" diameter hoses coming out of the bottom.  I was expecting a drain. Is one of these a drain of sorts?

Are diagrams available of air lines? Looking for what help I can get.

Thanks,

Mike

 

 

 

 

 


Elkhart (LPT50BRD 50 Amp Automatic Transfer Switch
Cubflyer

While out on the road for our first big trip in our new to us, 2003 HR Endeavor at at least two different campsites the motor home power cut off.  Working fine one minute, dead the next.  We were plugged into 50 amp service both times.  I checked that the plug was in the receptacle tight,  unplugged and plugged in again, looked at the voltmeter and amp indicator back where the cable enters the coach.  The voltages were un-even, like 109 and 120, amps were "0" and it may have been giving me an error code but I was to tired to write it down and just wanted to get some power on.... at the one campsite the power reset and came back, at the next we were just overnighting and I used a 110vac/15amp extension cord to power a portable battery charger and used the inverter to keep the frig and a medical device operating all night (probably could have just used my batteries but we were paying for power)  Didn't need A/C   It was about 11pm when things went south... Generator powered everything but we were in a campground so I did not run it long....  No circuit breakers were tripped inside or outside of the coach.

Here's the question.... This coach has a IOTA ITS 50R transfer switch (for sure), Progressive Surge protector? and monitor system....?? 

Is this a sign of the IOTA going bad, or are things doing what they are supposed to and tripping off to protect the MH?   

Is this "normal" to have splits in the voltages on the two legs of 220vac 50 amp power and is this something common at RV parks? 

In the morning at the second place I asked neighbors if they had problems and they did not.

Thoughts? Comments? Suggestions??

Ken


Front Ceiling Cover AC Vents
Bob125
While driving (and the slides are in), the slides cover the A/C outlets thus diverting the cool air to the top of the slides.  I think the AC would be more efficient by directing the air into the living space.  Our coach (2009 Beaver Marquis) has a hard time keeping cool while driving even with the genset and all 3 ACs running.  I am thinking about covering the 4 AC outlets and drilling new 4" holes and install 4 round vents that will direct air down thru the cover into the living area.  The material on the cover has a foam backing.  My question is how will this material respond when I drill a hole into it?  When I install the 4" round vents will the cover compress back like the other original cover looks?  I'll be very careful with the initial cut and use a very sharp knife.  Then I'll use a 4" hole saw.  I'm hoping the vent cover when screwed on will compress the cover material back down like the other detail.  Trying to keep it as professional and factory looking as possible.  Thanks in advance for any insight.  Bob...
 
Pics attached are:
    Front AC Ceiling Cover
    Ceiling Cover blocked by Slide when in
    Ceiling Cover material detail
    Back of ceiling cover 
    Potential new vent locations
    Pic of vent

Front 2 ACs.jpg

Front AC Cover Back.jpg

Front AC Cover Blocked by Slide.jpg

Front AC Cover Detail_1.jpg

Front AC Cover Detail_3.jpg

Front AC Cover_2.jpg

Front AC Cover_with round vent locations.jpg

Off White Valterra RV Vent.png


RR8S chassis leaning on air bags after shutdown
Nevada Rob

I feel your pain. We purchased a 2008 Dynasty with 10 bags. It would drop all the air from the left side in about an hour. I made ramps from 2x10's to drive up on. Spray bottle full of water and Dawn dish soap. Heavy on the soap so any little leaks will show up. Be patient. Over the next 3 days we found 16 air leaks. They were all very small leaks and did not make a sound, Not one bag was leaking. All the leaks were from the cheap quick connect fitting, regulators, and connection/threads on the air tanks. I would recommend buying numerous brass DOT approved compression fittings or various configurations. Tee's, elbows, couplings. I have air leveling, no jacks so air leaks are a problem. Good luck and keep looking. you will get it handled.


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