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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/505-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Roof
hitechpete
Front Ceiling Cover AC Vents
Hypoxia
Roof
Ivylog
Shore power dropping off
Cubflyer
Electrical Issue
Dr4Film
Shore power dropping off
Ivylog
Shore power dropping off
tmw188
Outside temperatures
Steven P
Awnings Won't Come In, Important
FishAR
Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY
Electrical Issue
jacwjames
Front Ceiling Cover AC Vents
redstickbill
Electrical Issue
Larry H
Electrical Issue
Tom Cherry
Electrical Issue
jacwjames
Outside temperatures
dandick66
Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY
Electrical Issue
jacwjames
Electrical Issue
Dr4Film
Front Ceiling Cover AC Vents
Steve P
Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY
Passenger side won't air up. : (
Dennis H
Front Ceiling Cover AC Vents
Dennis H
Front Ceiling Cover AC Vents
vito.a
Passenger side won't air up. : (
John Haggard
Front Ceiling Cover AC Vents
MrAmbassador
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
vanwill52
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
John Haggard
Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
miacasa_2000
Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
Jim Bob
Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
tmw188
Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
Dr4Film
Passenger side won't air up. : (
Paul A.
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
vanwill52
Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
Tin man
Electrical Issue
Tom Cherry
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
wayne.cerven@gmail.com
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
John Haggard
Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
cbr046
Roof
davesworld
Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
tmw188
Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
Corkman

New Posts

Roof
hitechpete
On 8/4/2021 at 1:51 AM, davesworld said:

I have a 2005 signature in which I see on the roof is missing something I looked in the book and apparently there’s supposed to be an areometer I’m not sure what the areometer is used for.? should I tape off the hole there is a flapper valve inside that hole.

it’s not the bathroom vents this is located up forward on the right side behind the CB antenna 

As the OP has stated aerometer as opposed to Anemometer, unless he has made a typo, those things are completely different. As there appears to be a one way valve installed, could this be an attic vent or tank vent of some type?


Front Ceiling Cover AC Vents
Hypoxia

What else have you done?  First, that filter is restricting air flow.  You need a non-restrictive filter like the $2 ones.  Have you made sure the A/C units have the correct foam seal between the cover and the unit and that they are sealed with metal tape and not leaking air?  Have you checked for leakage on the ceiling where the A/C units flow into the ducting?  There was a thread here recently that discussed the large improvements made by doing those things.


Roof
Ivylog

I can see the rectangular base of the “wind sensor” (can’t pontificate on what it is) for the Girard awning under all the Dicor.

AA7BE74B-7070-4AFD-9767-7C1A7E1883CC.jpeg


Shore power dropping off
Cubflyer

While out on the road for our first big trip in our new to us, 2003 HR Endeavor .  At two different campsites the motor home power cut off.  Working fine one minute, dead the next, nothing new turned on.  We were plugged into 50 amp service both times.  I checked that the plug was in the receptacle tight,  unplugged and plugged in again, looked at the voltmeter and amp indicator back where the cable enters the coach.  The voltages were un-even, like 109 and 120, amps were "0" and it may have been giving me an error code but I was too tired to write it down and just wanted to get some power on.... at the one campsite the power reset and came back, at the next we were just overnighting and I used a 110vac/15amp extension cord to power a portable battery charger and used the inverter to keep the frig and a medical device operating all night (probably could have just used my batteries but we were paying for power)  Didn't need A/C   It was about 11pm when things went south... Generator powered everything but we were in a campground so I did not run it long....  No circuit breakers were tripped inside or outside of the coach.

Here's the question.... This coach has a IOTA ITS 50R transfer switch (for sure), Progressive Surge protector? and monitor system....?? 

Is this a sign of the IOTA going bad, or are things doing what they are supposed to and tripping off to protect the MH?   

Is this "normal" to have splits in the voltages on the two legs of 220vac 50 amp power and is this something common at RV parks? 

In the morning at the second place I asked neighbors if they had problems and they did not.

Thoughts? Comments? Suggestions??

Ken


Electrical Issue
Dr4Film
11 hours ago, Martinvz said:

The price for the Upgrade kit is about $372 while the best we could find for the original board is $338. For the small price increase I will definitely settle for the upgrade kit.

Jeff mentioned that the relays are normally open for the circuits but for the 2 A/Cs the relay is normally closed. I am not able to verify this and accept it based on his knowledge.

Happy glamping.

Martin,

Welcome to the very best forum where all of your questions and concerns will be answered.

That's a great price for an EMS upgrade kit if it included everything, board, current sensor, display and two sets of wire pigtails to splice to the existing display wire harness.

Also, I always thought that the relays had to be NC and then opened when the board determines them to be shed. I guess they could be NO until power has been sensed by the current sensor then they close to allow power to each device until the board decides to shed the device then the relay opens. Whereas, the two relays for the AC's could be NC without any power to the relay and board not requiring any power on the relay solenoid to keep it closed. Then when needed the relay will open shutting down the AC when the board calls for it.

I don't really know either but I would bet that the guys from M&M Electronics would know as they have the best working knowledge of these Intellitec EMS boards.


Shore power dropping off
Ivylog

No, there shouldn’t be that big of a difference in voltages…4-5 volts in the 115V range is OK.
Your rig will automatically shut off the power when it gets below 108V to protect mainly the AC compressors…will reset after a minute +/-. Took me awhile to figure out it was the ice maker harvesting the ice (10 amp draw) at a rally on generator power that was shutting the power off.

Yes it could be loose connections in the transfer switch… my understanding of what burns the IOTA up, but easy enough to check. Pull your 50A plug out enough that you can measure the voltage on both side lugs and compare to the readings inside.


RR8S chassis leaning on air bags after shutdown
Dr4Film
10 hours ago, ok-rver said:

Are diagrams available of air lines? Looking for what help I can get.

Not sure this PDF file will help but it's all that I have.

Air Suspension Diagram.pdf


Shore power dropping off
tmw188

Your PI unit shut you down is my guess, doing its job. Your neighbors didn't have any issue if they didn't have a EMS to do it for them. Your coach was smarter. As for as the IOTA others will chine in. 


Outside temperatures
Steven P
On 8/4/2021 at 6:42 AM, dandick66 said:

I am wondering if I need to add the foam insulation to my 3 rooftop units?  As you can see, the condensers do not have the foam insulation, but since everything else is encased in sheet metal I don't know if the insulation is required.  The cover has both top and side vents, too.  These are Coleman/Airxcel units.  Looking for advice/recommendations.  Thanks.

Dan D       

2012 Diplomat 43 DFT

Maybe someone familiar w those will chime in.  Did you look on the underside of the covers?  My gasket was supposed to be there but wasn't on the replacements.  Also, get the model #s and Google original documents and maybe you can find a schematic or pics showing them.   Good luck. 


Awnings Won't Come In, Important
FishAR
15 hours ago, Ivylog said:

Turn the charger on… button on your inverter/charger remote.

Charger is on, keeping house batteries charged. Doesn't seem to charge the chassis batteries.


RR8S chassis leaning on air bags after shutdown
ok-rver

Print this out. I think this will be a great help.

 

Mike

I know that getting the end of the tubing square when cutting without burrs.  Wondering if the PVC tubing cutters would be a good way to trim off a little to restab fittings?

 


Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY

When I got home last night I tried to get the inverter out so I could open it up. However, it has too many wires other than just the cables so I resorted to just removing the top cover.

That didn't get me any closer. Large circuit board on to with heat sinks on either side prevented me from getting anywhere near where I need to be.

Being that working on it when the outside temperature was above 100, was quite miserable, I just let it sit and will have to work on it Friday.

I did look at my main shore power cord and it needs to be looked at further. Possible issue there.

And that intellitec panel was noticed in the bedroom. I never paid attention to the labeling.

That's it for the moment.

 


Electrical Issue
jacwjames

The inverter is not really serviceable.  I had mine out recently and without taking the large circuit board off the top there is not much you can do with it.  When I was having problems I called a service shop near me and he suggested I bypass the inverter by connecting the load wires and line wires together and grouping all the neutral wires.  Not an easy task the way they have all the wires crammed in there.  But I did this and then confirmed that it was a problem with one of my inverted circuits causing the generator to kick out.  Finally I was able to rewire that circuit to get electric to the entire coach. 

If you think it is your power cord you might be able to borrow one to see it fixes your problem, unless you have a cord reel. 

If that doesn't solve your problem it would narrow the issue to the transfer switch.  I have not read where you have inspected this yet.  I would suggest you do this ASAP as the IOTA transfer switch is a know fire hazard and originally under recall.

 


Front Ceiling Cover AC Vents
redstickbill

Bob, coils

Can you compress the ceiling cover with your hand?, if so the vinyl is backed by foam and you could do what you are thinking of. As Hypoxia mentions those filters are restricting some of the air flow. I have had to reseal the air flow between the A/C return/exhaust and the ceiling to stop any air flow escaping into the ceiling. Also there should be a foam piece separating the air return and exhaust, this prevents the cool air from being drawn right back into the air return. Have you cleaned the evaporator coils in units. I have no problem keeping the coach cool while driving with the A/C's

Bill B 07 Dynasty

I should have proof read before posting, forget the coils after Bob.

Bill B o7 Dynasty


Electrical Issue
Larry H

If your power cord unplugs from your RV,  the source where you are plugged in and the power cord are easy to check with a volt meter. A cord with one bad hot wire will have the effect you described. Do the simple checks first.


Electrical Issue
Tom Cherry
3 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

The inverter is not really serviceable.  I had mine out recently and without taking the large circuit board off the top there is not much you can do with it.  When I was having problems I called a service shop near me and he suggested I bypass the inverter by connecting the load wires and line wires together and grouping all the neutral wires.  Not an easy task the way they have all the wires crammed in there.  But I did this and then confirmed that it was a problem with one of my inverted circuits causing the generator to kick out.  Finally I was able to rewire that circuit to get electric to the entire coach. 

If you think it is your power cord you might be able to borrow one to see it fixes your problem, unless you have a cord reel. 

If that doesn't solve your problem it would narrow the issue to the transfer switch.  I have not read where you have inspected this yet.  I would suggest you do this ASAP as the IOTA transfer switch is a know fire hazard and originally under recall.

 

OK....now this is getting a bit MORE complicated. You can NOT JUST INSPECT the line cord.  You have to do a circuit test with a VOM on it. A qualified electrician or an owner with basic skill sets can do this.  Make sure that if you do this, you TOTALLY understand....  

The problem is that some of the Monaco supplied line cords have been know to have issues....USUALLY and HOPEFULLY...>TYPICALLY > on the PLUG END.

I have NO IDEA and the Windsor owners will have to chime in HOW the cord is connected to the MH or service. Mine has a reel with power strips. The output or the Pigtail from the reel assembly goes to a Junction Box. Then the main FEED or the power line to the ATS will be coming out.  SO....here is what I would do....

Disconnect power and pull the cover off the ATS. You will see the terminals marked LINE or CORD or POWER....This is where you will take your measurements.

Plug in the shore line.....measure as follows....on the FOUR terminals marked as Line or Cord or Shore or Power IN...

Line 1 (Black) to Line 2 (Red) SHOULD be around 230 Volts....

Line 1 to Neutral (White) should be around 115 Volts.  Line 2 (Red) to Neutral will be close to the same or around 115 Volts....it could be as high as 125, so that is OK...

Line 1 (Black) to GROUND (Bare or GREEN) should be around 115 Volts...  Line 2 (Red) to Neutral should be the same....see above.

Neutral (White) to GROUND (Bare or GREEN) should be ZERO....or very if any voltage. IF THIS IS HIGHER.....then there is a problem....

If you are OK here, then your incoming power is OK....if NOT....then you need to locate the Junction Box where the Reel (if you have one) or the POWER Cord is connected to the MH. TURN OFF THE POWER, OPEN IT and check there.....

OK....COMMENT ON THE TRACE...  All I posted is what is PUBLISHED. TRACE says there is a Replaceable 30 Amp SLO-BLO fuse inside. There is, per their schematic, ANOTHER FUSE...which they say if it has BLOWN....you got ISSUES.  

I have NO IDEA how Monaco installed or how accessible or "NOT" the Trace is. 

THIS IS IMPORTANT SO YOU NEED TO KNOW.  The SHORE and the GENNY are INPUTS to the ATS. The ATS sends power to the MAIN PANEL. The Main Panel has a 30 Amp breaker (assuming Monaco wired it that way). This provides power to to the TRACE. The TRACE has a Printed Circuit Board and maybe a contactor or relay. That works the SAME as the ATS. If there is INCOMING POWER, then the contacts are CLOSED and the 115 VAC from the 30 Amp breaker is SPLIT into two circuits. Microwave and House.  If there is NO SHORE or NO GENNY, then the Trace switches to INVERTER and then supplies inverted power to the TRACE ATS and you have power.

IF the Board or the Contactor are the problem or the contacts are pitted or whatever, then THERE IS THE ISSUE. 

BUT, if the SLO BLO Fuse has been BLOWN.....then replacing the FUSE should fix it. If it BLOWS again, then there are or could be issues.

Hope this helps....

3 minutes ago, Larry H said:

If your power cord unplugs from your RV,  the source where you are plugged in and the power cord are easy to check with a volt meter. A cord with one bad hot wire will have the effect you described. Do the simple checks first.

Larry,

You are correct.  See the POST BELOW....

IF it is a bad "SHORE", then 90% or MORE of the reported failures are the PLUG.  That is easily replaced. I can give the PN and how....IF THAT IS THE ISSUE....


Electrical Issue
jacwjames

On my Windsor it uses a marine type connector on the drivers side rear to connect to the shore power.  I have to remove when traveling. 

I know other Windsors are wired different, until he describes his cord it's hard to help.


Outside temperatures
dandick66
1 hour ago, Steven P said:

Maybe someone familiar w those will chime in.  Did you look on the underside of the covers?  My gasket was supposed to be there but wasn't on the replacements.  Also, get the model #s and Google original documents and maybe you can find a schematic or pics showing them.   Good luck. 

I looked under the covers and there is no evidence of any gaskets ever being there.  Thanks for the idea of looking up the original docs.  I’ll try that and see if I can find anything.  Thanks.

Dan 
2012 Diplomat 43DFT 


Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY

My power cord is on an electric retract reel. Not easily replaced. How it's wired in I have to research. Right now, the only thing I might suspect on this is the plug end. It's been messed with prior to my ownership and I haven't been happy with the plug due to electrical tape and generally poor condition of the cabling at that plug. It's been on my to do list and will be addressed ASAP.

The inverter I'm going to leave it as is until I get some other things looked at. I may have a mechanic here at work that knows this stuff. If so, and he's a lover of whiskey, I'll get some bribe booze purchased to see if he can nail this down.


Electrical Issue
jacwjames

The male ends of the cord can be replaced although they won't be as weather tight as a one from factory.  Can be purchased at any large RV store and/or on line. 

 


Electrical Issue
Dr4Film

My Windsor uses a Glendinning CableMaster Accumulator to wind in the power cord and coil it up into a small rear compartment on the driver's side rear corner. The cord is wired directly to a large junction box located in the engine compartment.

https://www.glendinningprods.com/products/cablemaster/cablemaster-rv/


Front Ceiling Cover AC Vents
Steve P

Your A/C does not have the slider (with a vertical tab)  that can be used to divert air from the coach vents to a single vent on the unit itself?  When diverted, cold air blasts downward from the unit (which is of course centered left and right).  Primitive, but effective... 


Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY

Mine winds up more forward. I'm borrowing a multimeter from the electric guru here. I'll test the junction box where the cord hooks into. If it looks good to that, then I have eliminated a couple problem areas.

Of course, I will advise.


Passenger side won't air up. : (
Dennis H

Thanks to everyone who posted. My original build sheet does not list the air springs. That said, I was able to get through to REV who had no clue what I was talking about. (head scratch) Without meaning to be demeaning, the gal on the phone should have stayed in the kitchen. Anyway, REV provided THEIR number which I was able to cross reference to the 8619/9376 bag. I've ordered 8 from Michigan Truck Springs in Saginaw. They will be here Friday. The two I had replaced two years ago, I'm leaving alone. Yes, I tried to find out the part numbers off those bags but the dealer simply said Replaced Air Springs with no part numbers. Insurance paid for those so I reached a dead end trying to go that route. I'll post my results next week as I'm scheduled to have them installed on Wednesday. The only issue may be if I have ping tanks. (3/4 fittings vs 1/4) I'll post any issues and the final cost in case someone else needs that info. Thanks again....Dennis


Front Ceiling Cover AC Vents
Dennis H

I would spend my money of 'fixing' what you have, otherwise you're going to be disappointed. Your A/C units should adequately cool your coach. I was only using the front and rear in 120 degree Arizona heat and didn't have a problem. My guess, as mentioned, is your filters and/or properly sealing the units on the roof. Fix what you have before throwing good money at a fix that won't cure your issue. Just my 2 cents......Dennis


Front Ceiling Cover AC Vents
vito.a

Wow, you have one of the last great Monaco/Beaver coaches!

I agree.  Get rid of those filters.  

Then try reversing two of the existing black vents inward.  

How is your dash A/C?  Replace the dryer, evacuate it and properly charge it and it will help the driver and passenger area a lot.  

 


water valve in bay; backflow valve failed
ERNIEMA

Hi...  I bought just the back flow valve from Amazon a Camco item for about $10.  Next day delivery.  My helper removed the brass fitting on the left side after taking off the handle.  He then gently pulled out the right fitting and cut off the blue hose... learning there was enough slack to recommevt it.....   we did not remove the huge white plate behind all of this... no need.  Hope this helps someone.  


Passenger side won't air up. : (
John Haggard

A poster got # last week from josams Orlando 

 

He posted info.

Good luck

I think josams Orlando stock them also.

They are the go to expers and supplies for monaco chassis parts 


Front Ceiling Cover AC Vents
MrAmbassador

Unless modified, your cool from each A/C (down draft) is flowing back in directly to the A/C return. As mentioned above there should be a leak free seal between the two cavities. I suggest returning all three A/Cs back to its original configuration (which includes foam filters). 


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
vanwill52

I apologize for the length of this post.  I'm just trying to save some folks from a really frustrating and expensive on-the-road repair.

As another poster mentioned, this is one of the “Top Ten” issues discussed on this forum.  Since Monaco stopped using the Solid State Isolator years ago and the number of coaches equipped with them dwindles, the number of techs who understand how to properly replace and connect one of these DUVAC alternators dwindles, also.  A DUVAC alternator is one with an external voltage sensing input, which MUST be connected correctly for the alternator to function correctly, and is required if you have a Solid State Isolator (SSI).  Incorrectly connecting the DUVAC terminal invariably results in a newly installed alternator soon failing.  It fails from being overloaded, putting out a higher voltage than necessary, and therefore amperage near or higher than its rated output.  Although it would seem intuitive that alternators be equipped with a regulator that limits current output and therefore protects the alternator from heat-induced damage, I’ve not run across one of these in my lifetime.

Since the DUVAC alternator is required ONLY because of the Solid State Isolator (SSI), if you eliminate the SSI, you can replace the DUVAC alternator with a more common non-DUVAC type.  A popular replacement is the Delco 28si, available almost anywhere, and at a much lower price.

I humbly suggest that those of you who have a Solid State Isolator, and therefore a DUVAC alternator, consider that, unless you are very fortunate, your aging (near 20 years or more) coach will have an alternator failure sooner or later.  And if you must get a DUVAC alternator replaced while on the road, your chances of  1) having the issue diagnosed accurately, 2) finding an EXACT replacement and 3) getting it properly installed, are near zero.  Witness the MANY stories of woe surrounding this scenario.

It has been established in numerous posts that these replace-on-the-road scenarios can lead to HUGE unnecessary expenses in solving a simple issue.

So, it behooves you to prepare for this situation in advance.  IMHO, the simplest available, truly dependable, and easily understood solution is to replace your SSI with the Blue Sea ML-ACR component at your leisure BEFORE you hit the road.  You will also at this time be eliminating your “Lambert” chassis battery charger, and your “Big Boy”—two less items to fail.  You need NOT replace your alternator at this time, if it is functioning properly.  The ML-ACR acronym stands for “Magnetically Latched Automatic Charging Relay”.  It comes with the following warranty, “We stand behind this product for as long as you own it.”  It is available on Amazon for approximately $175—

AmazonSmile : Blue Sea Systems ML-ACR 12V DC 500A Automatic Charging Relay with Manual Control, Beige : Boating Battery Switches : Sports & Outdoors

In the acronym “ML” means “magnetically latched”.  This means it requires only a momentary signal to switch it from COMBINING both battery banks for charging, to DISCONNECTING them from one another to preserve chassis battery charge.  Unlike a “Big Boy”, which even at reduced voltage becomes too hot to hold your hand on, the ML-ACR stays cool.

In the acronym, “ACR” means “automatic charging relay”.  This means it will AUTOMATICALLY choose when to COMBINE both battery banks…and when to DISCONNECT them from one another.  It chooses to COMBINE both battery banks when a charging voltage above approximately 13VDC is available from ANY source, whether it be the Inverter-Charger, engine alternator, or any outside source.  It chooses to DISCONNECT them (isolate them from one another) when no such charging voltage exists, as when the engine is off and you are not connected to a pedestal.  If you install the remote switch in place of your existing “BOOST” switch, you can REMOTELY force it into either state.  You might choose to DISCONNECT the battery banks if you are rolling with your genny running.  In that case, you MIGHT get an “Alternator-Fail” light, due to having both the engine alternator and the inverter-charger both charging the batteries at one time, if you do not DISCONNECT the battery banks from one another.  You might choose to CONNECT the two battery banks if you need the BOOST function.

But even if you do not install the remote switch, all the functionality of the ML-ACR remains by physically accessing the device and manually rotating the top knob—you can disengage it (in either CONNECTED or DISCONNECTED mode), you can switch it to permanent CONNECT mode, or permanent DISCONNECT mode.

The ML-ACR also has other functionality, as described in its installation manual.  You can cause it to automatically choose either CONNECT or DISCONNECT based on other criteria, for instance when there are multiple charging sources, or while the engine starter is operating.  These functions require additional wiring.

The ML-ACR can also replace a BIRD or IRD system that is often difficult to troubleshoot, and might require a long wait for parts, even if the diagnosis is sure.

I apologize for the length of this post, but my intent is to save folks from a really disappointing and expensive problem on the road.  Be prepared for it, because it will almost surely happen, and Murphy’s Law insures it will happen when you are far from home and at the mercy of techs who almost surely will NOT understand the DUVAC system.

I’ll include two photos of my system, both before and after on a 2000 Dynasty (nearly 200K miles), and also the battery box modifications allowing me (8) 6V batteries and (2) Group 31 chassis batteries.  Note that I replaced both my Master Disconnect switches with heavy-duty Blue Sea items.  That is NOT necessary for an ML-ACR installation, but the switches are of the same quality as all Blue Sea products.IMG_2889.thumb.JPG.4a1c27e9f1b8f71188398289b9f8fb6f.JPG

20190521_200546.jpg

20190519_172336.jpg

20190519_172200.jpg


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
John Haggard

Thank you for the very detailed information. 

Your original system is very close to my 99.

My battery switches are by the batteries. 

The subject you addressed so completely is a topic almost weekly. 


RR8S chassis leaning on air bags after shutdown
Gary Cole

Mike, this site has many downable files which can help you. I had several files printed at 48" X 36" so that the details were readable, (not so when blown up on my monitor), and I could keep them with my RV if needed. As you probably know high end commercial printers use algorithms which will print a pdf file at that size without image degradation.

"Mountain bikes as toads"  Bikes are my preferred toad. I only drag a vehicle around as a last resort. Sometimes I just plan on using a taxicab a few times if necessary. The cab fare is minimal. My winter project is going to be hydraulic rear lift for a motorcycle. 

Good luck on your new RV.


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
JDCrow

On my project list. When I switch out my inverter, I plan to switch house batteries to Lithium.  The charging system kinda becomes  void as the lithium’s suck a lot of amps and can overheat the Alternator. Also cannot not “combine” the house and chassis batteries anymore, so that can come out as you did. 
I will be relocating house batteries as well. 
 

I’ll mark this thread as reference, I appreciate you taking the time to post. 


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
miacasa_2000

First I'd like to say my Norcold never gave me any trouble a few years back like many of you I noticed ice cream not as hard nor the beer not as cold as they should be. A little research and found my thermistor not in spec so when I replaced that and at the same time bought a wireless 2 position thermometer I realized how much outside conditions and running on LP or AC would effect it I learned I had to always adjust the temp to conditions and wa-la ice cream and beer all good. Anyway just as we all do I thought a little preventative measure better than being stuck at a bad time or place since mine is 19 yrs old and most of the time now I'm on shore power I installed a Samsung RF18A5101SG  it's nice now they don't have handles sticking out. Going on a shake down run to Lake Kerr in about a week I'll let you know if I messed up.

Here's a few pics of before during and after I have the unit sitting in my garage. Kind of seems a shame to send it to the dump if someone needs anything not sure how that would work out I live in South Jersey.

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Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
Jim Bob

looks very nice, just curious how you got the new one inside....  through the front windshield or take out the front seat and through the door?  Also, certainly would not trash a working old fridge...  put it on Craig's List.  I'm sure someone will buy it.


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
tmw188

Looks like the bottom freezer pulls out further and is more accessible too. 


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
Jim Bob

I like many have seen this topic several times.  My coach is a 95 and it seems all those parts are in the back, mounted on the firewall.  I replaced my alternator about 9 nine years ago and took it to a alternator shop to get it working.  I was on a trip when it went out, and replaced it while camping, but never got it working properly.  The alternator shop got it working but he said he could not get the alternator to "turn off".  Said it was constantly drawing power and would run the chassis batteries down if I didn't install a switch.  I did not install a switch, just seemed like would be something I'd forget to turn back on... so I just keep a trickle charger on the batteries when parked.  The post above has me thinking that perhaps I could replace my isolation box with the ML ACR and could fix my constantly "on" alternator???  BTW, I had the old alternator rebuilt and kept the what looked like to me to be a Ford regulator, in case I ever needed it.  Have had no issues so far.  Anyone have a idea about this, feel free to advise.  Jim 


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
Dr4Film

Wow! Great installation job.

Love the new Samsung 18 cu/ft without handles. Plus Wi-Fi to boot!

How are you planning to secure the French Door and Freezer Drawer?

I wonder if now that there are no handles that the Fridge Fixer would be the best solution.


Passenger side won't air up. : (
Paul A.

West coast located Roadmaster Chassis Experts. 

https://www.hendersonslineup.com/wheel-alignment  and http://sourcerv.com/


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
vanwill52
1 hour ago, JDCrow said:

On my project list. When I switch out my inverter, I plan to switch house batteries to Lithium.  The charging system kinda becomes  void as the lithium’s suck a lot of amps and can overheat the Alternator. Also cannot not “combine” the house and chassis batteries anymore, so that can come out as you did. 
I will be relocating house batteries as well. 
 

I’ll mark this thread as reference, I appreciate you taking the time to post. 

You probably already know about the Li-BIM 225 offered by Precision Circuits, Inc.  If not, take a look.  It interrupts charging to the lithium batteries on a time-based schedule.

Li-BIM for Lithium batteries.jpg

28 minutes ago, Jim Bob said:

I like many have seen this topic several times.  My coach is a 95 and it seems all those parts are in the back, mounted on the firewall.  I replaced my alternator about 9 nine years ago and took it to a alternator shop to get it working.  I was on a trip when it went out, and replaced it while camping, but never got it working properly.  The alternator shop got it working but he said he could not get the alternator to "turn off".  Said it was constantly drawing power and would run the chassis batteries down if I didn't install a switch.  I did not install a switch, just seemed like would be something I'd forget to turn back on... so I just keep a trickle charger on the batteries when parked.  The post above has me thinking that perhaps I could replace my isolation box with the ML ACR and could fix my constantly "on" alternator???  BTW, I had the old alternator rebuilt and kept the what looked like to me to be a Ford regulator, in case I ever needed it.  Have had no issues so far.  Anyone have a idea about this, feel free to advise.  Jim 

Sorry, Jim.  I can't remember much about the DUVAC I had that was equipped with an external regulator.  But it sounds like the "Excite" terminal of the alternator is connected to an "always-on" source.  The "Excite" terminal needs to be energized by an ignition-switched circuit.  I am not sure that installing the ML-ARC would fix that.  Check the "Excite" terminal on the alternator to see if it is energized even when the engine is not running.


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
Tin man

Great install.  I am considering the same switch in the next year.  A couple questions if I may.  First, I see the drawer fronts were installed on top of the new refrigerator, could you have left the pull out drawers on the bottom and installed the fridge above it or is there not enough room and support?.  And, did you need to make any changes to the batteries, inverter or anything else major?

 

Thank you and thanks for sharing the photos.

 

Ray


Electrical Issue
Tom Cherry
6 hours ago, LJPierce_ELY said:

My power cord is on an electric retract reel. Not easily replaced. How it's wired in I have to research. Right now, the only thing I might suspect on this is the plug end. It's been messed with prior to my ownership and I haven't been happy with the plug due to electrical tape and generally poor condition of the cabling at that plug. It's been on my to do list and will be addressed ASAP.

The inverter I'm going to leave it as is until I get some other things looked at. I may have a mechanic here at work that knows this stuff. If so, and he's a lover of whiskey, I'll get some bribe booze purchased to see if he can nail this down.

OK....since you asked.....Amazon is your friend....  I have done this and several members have followed suit. You will end up with an "end" that is as good or better than the molded one.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-PowerGrip-Replacement-Transform-55255/dp/B000PGVZ30/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=camco+50+amp+plug&qid=1628195672&s=automotive&sr=1-3

Use Camco 55255 in the Amazon search if the link does not work.  $18.66

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0195UWAHG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Use Dow Corning 4 Electrical Insulating Compound. $22,91.

THERE you have it. Cut off the old end. strip the wires to mate up. The Black and Red are not that critical, but to follow NEC, the BLACK (Line 1) is on the LEFT....if you are looking from the back of the plug. In other words, when you insert the plug, the blade on the LEFT SIDE will be BLACK (Line 1) and the blade on the RIGHT will be RED (Line 2). Ground will be at the TOP and the Neutral (White) will be the bottom blade.

See Figure 7 in the following PDF

http://www.billgehr.com/images/MH_2015-09_Power_Trip_101.pdf

After you cut and strip and get the wires CLEAN and in the terminals, it is important to tighten properly. Use a good "hand filling" screwdriver handle. Wrap a mechanics shop towel of a dry wash cloth around the handle....say TWO thicknesses. THEN, tighten with all your MIGHT. An adult male with average grip strength will get the 35 - 40 inch pounds of torque. 

NOW....with that done.....wiggle the outer jacket of the cord and sort of flex it or move it around. That will take the strain off the fittings. REPEAT the TORQUING.....same deal with the wrapped screwdriver handle. Criss Cross the pattern and do it ONE MORE TIME...

NOW, you fill the cavity with the Dow so that you totally encapsulate the wiring and terminals. DO NOT USE CHEAP SILICONE....use the DOW...  Once it cures, you are GOOD TO GO....  I had an OPEN Neutral once.....a small bump, like a cellphone falling on the plug from a foot or so was enough to dislodge the crimped Neutral.

THAT IS IS.....If your shore line is damaged.....DO THIS FIRST.....then follow the rest....a CHEAP investment....

Good Luck...


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
wayne.cerven@gmail.com

Great post!

John could I send you an email in regards to another topic ( having problems with our 1953  60 series John Deere) I do not want to annoy anyone on our Monaco site, do you have another email address that I can ask the question (if you don't mind)

Thanks 

Wayne 

1999 Signature Caesar 


RR8S chassis leaning on air bags after shutdown
ok-rver

Dr4Film, Thanks for the diagrams. Printed on 8.5 by 11 they were pretty small but a chart magnifier left over from the boat let me see how many of the lines were run. Gary, I agree with printing off to a bigger size to have available for reference. Good day working on the coach. Oklahoma has been almost 10 degrees cooler than a normal August so a little easier to put in 8 hour days. Blocked front wheels up 4.5" and slid under looking for leaks. Turns out it was the high pressure relief for the forward tank. Old style with a cap at the end held closed by a spring. $35 and a new, better designed 150 psi relief in place. After replacement, maybe dropped 5 psi over an hour period of time. 

Line plumbed to the leveling valve on front axle pretty easy to follow. Tee on discharge of valve. Line to driver side runs to frame rail and a tee feeds front and back forward axle air bags. Line to passenger rail tees with the thru run port going to another tee and supply front and back forward axle passenger side air bags. The first tee (on passenger side) branch port had a line that ran back across the frame to drivers side frame rail and then ran up into the area in front of the "firewall". Pulled out generator and there was the single solenoid valve shown in picture. Wife discharged air and vented thru screened plug on exhaust port. Sprayed with dawn mix and no bubbles. 

RR8S is side radiator giving good access in rear compartment. Lots of wires so had wife hit the air dump switch. Found under a wiring harness the two valves pictured side by side. Vents are pointed up so easy to load up with dawn mix. No bubbles over a 5 min watch. These solenoids are on the right bulkhead pretty close to the corner where it turns to become the actual engine compartment.

Very pleased with the reduction in time for air to come up to pressure. checked a couple of dozen fittings with dawn mix and did not see any leaks. Pleased with the mornings work. The plan is to pick up another relief valve for the rear. The new type has a long body with a hex fitting to install.  the poppet is within the ID of the fitting and is better protected from grime. Bendix 800350 ST-4 safety valve

Hope maybe this helps someone else understand their system.  

Air cylinder and brackets came in so will be replacing the door stay lever over the next couple of days.

air dump solenoid foward.JPG

air dump solenoids L & R rear.JPG


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
John Haggard
13 minutes ago, wayne.cerven@gmail.com said:

Great post!

John could I send you an email in regards to another topic ( having problems with our 1953  60 series John Deere) I do not want to annoy anyone on our Monaco site, do you have another email address that I can ask the question (if you don't mind)

Thanks 

Wayne 

1999 Signature Caesar 

Soillife7@gmail.com 


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
cbr046

Nice job on the install 👍

Sadly I'm still struggling with the old Norcold.  I re-insulated the boiling tube, which had chunks missing (thanks to the ultra thin foil covering), taped up any seams that had gaps (LH lower side tape had separated) and added an extra layer of EPDM to the door seals.  The center flap in the doors still isn't sealing perfectly and I need to work on that.  I've been keeping track of temps and it appears to be minimal improvement (90 outside = 50 indicated in the fridge)  However, the last road trip the inside got to 70F (which was probably 65) with 90'sF outside and 65 mph so another road trip is in order to see if it will stand the test of speed. 

48F on the fridge thermometer is really 46F according to Govee thermometer and on the IR gun reads 37F, very deceptive.  Fridge fins read 27F and back of freezer reads -18F.  Fridge fins are forming a heavy layer of ice on the RH side.  Fridge definitely is more efficient on AC vs propane, but being I'm mostly boondocking it's what we have to work with. 

This is all my little 1200 can do.  Full blast, non-stop.  The fridge thermometer should read 40 before the thermostat shuts down the boiler and that hasn't happened since June (or earlier). 

If I go replacement I'll probably do the Amish unit.  I can't afford to rely on the generator. 

Good luck finding a new home for your 1200.

- bob


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
Martinvz

Thanks for a very detailed explanation and the implications of a failure on the road.

Some questions:

  1. How would I determine if the alternator is DUVAC type?
  2. Were the DUVAC alternators used only on the DP coaches or also on the gas (I have a W24 Workhorse chassis)?
  3. Do you have any idea when Monaco stopped using DUVAC alternators?

 


Roof
davesworld

I will get up on top and take a closer look

Maybe just tape it off for now

Thanks for all the inputs


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
tmw188

A wise man once told me nearly 6 yrs ago on another forum get rid of that POS (sound familiar). Since then I picked up on that taken that same message and passed it on. They are even older now those units. All the kits and fans and thermal cut offs will never do what your expectations are. You travels won’t be consumed with worrying about the food, how long your wife has the door opened looking for something, getting a site with shade on the refrigerator side, and waiting 2 days to get it cold just to loose it all when putting food in it. Don’t spend another dime on these units, they don’t have much room in them anyway. Your motorhome will take on a whole new meaning when its gone.


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
Corkman

Bob Mercier, what are those three LED looking things in the back of the refrigerator compartment at the bottom? I’m referring to the ones that look like three LED lights at the bottom of your old refrigerator compartment. It’s probably obvious to everybody else but I really don’t know what the heck they might be?


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
Dr4Film

 Bill,

Those are the air vents for the old POS  NotSoCold. That's where the air comes in to vent the heat out the top.


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
Corkman

Thanks 


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
tmw188
8 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

 Bill,

Those are the air vents for the old POS  NotSoCold. That's where the air comes in to vent the heat out the top.

😁


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
vanwill52
43 minutes ago, Martinvz said:

Thanks for a very detailed explanation and the implications of a failure on the road.

Some questions:

  1. How would I determine if the alternator is DUVAC type?
  2. Were the DUVAC alternators used only on the DP coaches or also on the gas (I have a W24 Workhorse chassis)?
  3. Do you have any idea when Monaco stopped using DUVAC alternators?

 

Martin,

1) It's not super-easy to identify a DUVAC from a non-DUVAC alternator from the pulley side of the alternator.  It requires access to the REAR of your alternator. Conventional, modern alternators MAY have only ONE or TWO terminals--a B+ (battery) terminal from which the alternator charges ALL connected loads, and (possibly) another terminal that is ignition-key-activated.  For "self-excited" alternators (most modern types), there may be only ONE terminal--the heavy cable going to the positive post of whatever battery it is charging.  (NOTE that there may be other terminals, such as a tachometer output, but these do not affect the alternator's ability to charge batteries.)  Ignition-key-activated terminals are GENERALLY for setups that are NOT self-energizing. 

If you have a SSI (Solid State Isolator), you almost certainly have some sort of DUVAC alternator, as it MUST sense voltage AT THE BATTERY POSITIVE terminal, and NOT at its output terminal.  The SSI is commonly a large (4" x 12") BLUE (never seen another color, although surely there could be others) device with (3) VERY HEAVY battery cables attached and heat-dissipating fins.

2) I cannot answer whether the DUVAC alternators were only present on the DP coaches.  They could have been built either with, or without.  For any coach 20 years old or so having two battery banks (House and Chassis), there MUST have been some method to prevent having your House loads drain your Chassis batteries.  For Workhorse chassis models, there may have been only one battery bank...I'm guessing.  In that case, there would be no need for a DUVAC alternator.  Again, the SSI was only necessary to isolate chassis (engine starting) batteries from House batteries (powering lights, fans, AC controllers, furnace controllers, water heater controllers (switching between AC power and propane) which powered all your 12VDC loads.

3) Perhaps someone else can chime in who knows the answer to when Monaco stopped using SSI's.  I'm GUESSING (do not KNOW) that it would have been about 2003 - 2004.  Bob Nodine owns a coach of that vintage.  Perhaps he will answer.

To try to explain why the troublesome DUVAC system ever existed--at the time they were used (20+ years ago), the SSI was seen as "state of the art" in charging systems that charged multiple battery banks.  At that time, separating battery banks (when no charging voltage was present) MUST be accomplished by SOME method.  Again, at the time, SSI's were seen as simple, rugged devices that accomplished their function without moving parts, complex circuitry or USER INTERVENTION.  BUT, there was a voltage-drop across the SSI of about 0.7VDC.  Although that seems quite small, it is very significant in whether your batteries ever reach fully charged condition in a reasonable time.  Our dear departed friend, Bill Groves, was very aware of that, and often spoke about how to remedy the situation.  Chuck B, who was in charge of HUGE battery banks for the phone system, would probably tell you the same thing--just tenths of a volt divide rapid, full charging from batteries that are chronically under-charged.

Again, I apologize for a lengthy post, but the details of fully and efficiently charging a large battery bank are often misunderstood.  Settings on the charge controller of either Trace, Xantrex or Magnum are almost universally left at the factory default settings, and that short-changes their capabilities significantly.

Once again, apologies for such a long post.  Safe travels...and trouble-free travels.

Respectfully, Van


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
JetAburner

Would be interested in the shelves, door shelves and ice maker if possible. Can do paypal to cover parts and shipping to Ca.


Shore power dropping off
Cubflyer

Thanks for the test idea Dick, I would not have thought about that technique and I do carry a Fluke meter. Also the "108" min volts....I did not have a guess what the range should be. I have looked into the IOTA and it is not showing signs of heat damage and the connections are good and tight.

Todd, "smart" coach... but dumb owner  🙂 Thanks for the info, I was wondering the function/capabilities of the PI... If it happens again, I will have to pay attention to the "codes" maybe it's too sensitive... or maybe it IS doing it's job....  Thanks!

Ken


Did I create an issue in the 12 Florescent volt system?
Rich Cutler

I want to convert the florescent overhead lighting system in my 2006 Windsor to LED lighting.  I purchased a kit for the bathroom overhead toilet room, from the internet, as a test and it went smoothly but it was much too bright white and way too costly.   Being a model railroader, I have rolls of the LED lights which are three bulbs and a built-in resister that you can cut to length.  (This is basically all the kit was, but it included all the fittings and clamp on terminals.)   The roll is adhesive backed so all you do is remove the florescent bulbs, remove the ballast, attach a strip of LEDs, attach the strip to the 12v (First pick the color kelvin LED you want to use).   Well before I got started, I went into Walmart and spotted in the lighting section, LED tubes to replace florescent, so I picked up two as they were about $8ea as I recall.  That was a lot cheaper than all the work I was about to do to switch over to LED lighting strips, or so I thought.  

I went to the Windsor, figured I would try with the fixture over the sink with my newly purchased tube LED florescent replacements as this circuit has one switch and only one florescent ceiling light and one 12v puck light.  I made the switch of tubes, turned it on and we had light.   It looked great.   Turned of and on a few times and compared the color with the living area ceiling lights and they were similar.  I thought I had a good cheap solution to a LED switch from the florescent ceiling lights.  Then that circuit went off and never came back, not for the puck light, not for putting the florescent back, not for a volt meter.

I cannot find a multi-plex fuse that appears blown.  Would there be one blown or would the circuit be messed up?  Suggestions to get 12v back to that circuit.

Thanks


Front Ceiling Cover AC Vents
Bob125

Thanks for all the ideas.  I just switched from foam to residential filters.  So, I will switch them back.  I did not realize they had more resistance.  Previously, I have inspected all the ducts and vents for leaks into the roof area and bad seals.  I've corrected anything that looked like a leak.  I've also have modified the supply area to help the air transition into the ducts smoother and made sure there is no return/supply air mixing (see pictures).  That helped increase air flow some out of the vents.    The coach cools great while parked and I have no concerns while parked.  But, while driving on a 95 degree day, it's approx. 83-85 inside with genset and all 3 AC's running on High fan and set on 60 degrees.  I have remote temperature probes and have measured the return and supply temp differences while driving and they all keep around a 20 degree differential.  I'm not expecting 60 degrees, but feel it should be able to keep 75 degrees.  It seems the heat load while driving overwhelms the cooling capacity.  I've checked for leaks and found none.  I thought possibly some type of exterior airflow around the condensers was impacting it's effectiveness but they hold a 20 degree supply/return differential.  I have added more insulation to the front cap and planning on adding more to the genset area, backs of cabinets, engine compartment, possibly the bottom pans, etc. 

The ceiling pad does have the underfoam that compresses.  I'll insulate as much as I can next before covering up the 4 current vents and cutting new round vents that will direct the airflow out to the living area.  Thanks for the help, I will definitely change back to foam filters.  

Any other ideas will be greatly appreciated.  These are 15,000 BTU Dometics, original in 2009.  This hot while driving issues has been this way since we bought the coach new in 2009.

IMG_0944.jpg

IMG_0945.jpg


Did I create an issue in the 12 Florescent volt system?
Wrayj1

I have been looking at replacements leds for my fluorescents, what I learned is that some of them require removing the ballast.  I found some that work with the ballast, they are $17 each. You may have the type that you need to remove the ballast?


RR8S chassis leaning on air bags after shutdown
ok-rver

I did find an air brake safety relief at NAPA for under $16 but it is the same style as what I had.  MBI KN31200. Looking at the air diagrams Dr4Film sent me, which is a different coach but was very similar to mine, the compressor feeds the forward tank and then to the rear tank. The diagram does not show a relief valve in the rear tank.  If the front can not exceed 150 psi, then neither could the rear. Maybe I don't need another relief valve.


Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY

Got into it this evening, at least as far as the power cord goes, from the pedestal to, and into, the coach.

The power cord, despite all my hopes, is not the culprit. I have power moving through the necessary two wires and into the junction box next to the reel. No change when I rotated the reel either.

I used a FLUKE multimeter I borrowed from the electrical guru at work.

So, It isn't the power cord. One thing I did find was a CAMCO plug on the portion that plugs into the pedestal. So someone has already played with it and I am going to redo it. It doesn't meet my high repair standards. (Basically avoid the use of Electrical Tape where it's going to come apart!)

I'm going to try and spend the morning reading up on some of the replies contained herein in regards to the Intellitec board, as well as using the multimeter to see if I can figure this out.

AND I found the power outlet in the storage compartment that has access to the back of the water heater and what I call "The Water Bay". It is NOT a GFCI outlet.

I will update if, strike that, when. Yes, WHEN I manage to eradicate this little gremlin.

And thank you to everyone who has posted something. It is all appreciated. And a big thank you to Mr. Cherry. I will be attempting to proceed as you so described in much detail.


Did I create an issue in the 12 Florescent volt system?
Rich Cutler

Yes, the tape type that come in the kit, require removal of the ballast, or just bypass.  You just connect those LEDs to 12v.  The tube type do not say.  In retrospect, I assume they were meant to replace the tubes in 120v systems and ballast systems, not our 12v systems and ballast systems.  So what could I have screwed up if any thing.  The 120v system florescent tubes work in our 12v ballast systems so I assume those LED tubes should work in the 12v ballast systems as well, which they did for a short time.  Now I do not have 12v in that circuit.


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
Dennis H
5 hours ago, Tin man said:

Great install.  I am considering the same switch in the next year.  A couple questions if I may.  First, I see the drawer fronts were installed on top of the new refrigerator, could you have left the pull out drawers on the bottom and installed the fridge above it or is there not enough room and support?.  And, did you need to make any changes to the batteries, inverter or anything else major?

 

Thank you and thanks for sharing the photos.

 

Ray

Ray, the problem with leaving the drawers on the BOTTOM is it makes the upper shelves of the fridge pretty high. Depending on how tall your wife is, that might be an issue. It was for me which is why that drawer was removed. On my Exec, I made no changes to the batteries or the inverter. I installed mine in 2014 and have had zero problems. We full time in the coach..I changed mine out by myself in a campground. Pretty easy to do. The fridge comes in through the emergency window in the living room. If you have access to or a friend who has a forklift, this helps a lot. I made a dolly using 3/4 plywood and four large wheels the same height as the shelf I installed and it slid right into the hole.....hope this helps...Dennis


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
Corkman

I would be interested in the seals on the doors what is their condition?


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
Dennis H
2 hours ago, Corkman said:

Bob Mercier, what are those three LED looking things in the back of the refrigerator compartment at the bottom? I’m referring to the ones that look like three LED lights at the bottom of your old refrigerator compartment. It’s probably obvious to everybody else but I really don’t know what the heck they might be?

 

2 hours ago, Corkman said:

Bob Mercier, what are those three LED looking things in the back of the refrigerator compartment at the bottom? I’m referring to the ones that look like three LED lights at the bottom of your old refrigerator compartment. It’s probably obvious to everybody else but I really don’t know what the heck they might be?

That vent is unnecessary with the new installation. However, since it's the removable vent from the outside, it has it's advantages. I used Gorilla Tape on the inside to keep critters from finding their way inside the coach, (think wasps, flies etc.) I also kept my propane line active and can use it for my BBQ and/or campfire. Finally that access door provides easy access to the water purifier I installed on my ice maker line.....Dennis


Did I create an issue in the 12 Florescent volt system?
Wrayj1

Rich, I am looking at replacement tubes vs the stick on you mentioned.  The replacement tubes you found at Walmart most likely need the ballast removed.


Did I create an issue in the 12 Florescent volt system?
Gary Cole

Rich, an LED bi pin replacement for a florescent tube requires a 120 V AC source. It has a built in 120V AC/12V DC power supply. One has to remove the ballast as it boost the voltage up to 175 V or so depending on the tube wattage in order to ionize the gas in the florescent tube. The LED strip on the other hand requires a 12V DC source. You most certainly blew a 12 volt fuse. Kind of hard to visually detect a blown fuse in the panel sometimes. I'm just surprised that the tube worked long enough to even light up.


Installed dedicated monitor for Aladdin System
ok-rver

Recently purchase 2004 HR Scepter 40PDQ. Our first MH. Spent 2 years outfitting a  40 ft sailboat for a 4 year cruise in the Bahamas. Many systems are similar between MHs and boats.

At final check of MH, I asked where tank monitoring was. I was familiar thru the internet with the Aladdin system. No one could find a monitor or TV that was connected to the Aladdin. Call to previous owner and he said when the the original TVs were changed to LCDs, they did not connect to either TV. Dealer stated he would get it working. Tech installed a powered video switch that allowed either coax or composite video to rear TV. Joystick allowed viewing the main screens with data that was realistic.

I ordered an under $50 7” color monitor from Amazon. Monitor arrived, fired it up and had a pretty good picture from Blue-Ray DVD. Ran on 24vdc power supply for 4 days while waiting to start project on MH. Bumped it against my hand many times a day to see if anything might come loose inside. It keep on working.

From other posts, I got an idea of were the Aladdin video box might be. Removed the access panel holding the radio and AC controls which is mounted on the center of the console. Buried under lots of extra wires is the Aladdin box with two different sets of video/audio RCA connectors plugged into outputs 1 & 2. In the driver side overhead console is a Sony audio/video switch box. Used temp power to the monitor and switched between the 4 yellow video cable until I found the live wire. Worked great, joystick allowed switching between screens.

From other posts, a good place was to mount monitor to left of steering wheel on flat area running along window, just in front of the leveling bubble. Pulled the decorative caps and screws out of the driver side A pillar. The plastic cover that runs from the dash to the roof appears to be held in place by the forward edge of the window frame. It would not slide out of the way. Pulled the lower edge of the trim away from the windshield and was able to push the end of a 4’ length of 1/2” OD PEX plastic pipe thru the opening with all the other wires coming down the A pillar. The video monitor has an approximate 14” long pig tail with a 1/2” diameter round connector. The power and audio cables have the opposite gender connector. Cut 3 short slits in the PEX end under the dash, slid the connector up into the inside of the PEX and taped the two together. Pulled the PEX up to above the dash and was able to connect the two cables together.

With the radio out of the way, the PEX was long enough to slide across the panel under all of the dash instruments to where the cable came down. Taped the power and video cables to the PEX and pulled them over to the radio area. Upcoming project is to replace the Weldex backup camera monitor. Made the decision to “temporarily” feed power to the new video monitor from the cigarette lighter power. May rewire if I find a better source while rewiring the backup monitor. Video male end was long enough to plug into Video 3 port on the Aladdin. Had to splice in about 16” of red/black to get over to the lighter.

Picture is before the cable was tucked into the crack between the post and dash covers. Monitor is working as it should. Power comes on when the House Supply switch is on. If ignition key is off, pressing the Aladdin joystick turns the Aladdin on. Access to engine, house AC, tank info via the joystick.  Velcro was used to mount the base. The base is probably the cheapest made part of the video monitor system. Rotational swivel screw is on the bottom of the base. Velcro lets me pull up the base if not positioned correct. Brightness seems OK with the bright sun over the last few days. Will be on the road next week and see if the level is right. Monitor menu lets the level be increased or decreased. May build a hood to go around the top of the monitor to block some of the sun light.

Most of these inexpensive monitors have 3% to 10% feedback of 1. Some concern as to how long it will operate. Have found other monitors not on Amazon that are around $100 and may go that route if this one fails.

Search Amazon for this monitor:              Padarsey 7 Inch LED Backlight TFT LCD Monitor     $42 plus tax.            

I believe information is good. This gives me more info and that is good. The original TV displayed this info but there is an interlock that will not let the TV be on if the engine is running. Will see how it goes down the road.

Dedicated Aladdin monitor.JPG


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