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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/506-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
Tin man
Roof
hitechpete
Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
rpasetto
Power cord reel
Chuck B
Power cord reel
Capt Mike
Power cord reel
Chuck B
Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
miacasa_2000
Power cord reel
Rick A
Power cord reel
Larry Laursen
Power cord reel
Chuck B
Power cord reel
vito.a
Power cord reel
Nevada Rob
Power cord reel
John Haggard
Power cord reel
Chuck B
Electrical Issue
jacwjames
Power cord reel
Monte Roger Fautin
Power cord reel
Chuck B
Power cord reel
John Haggard
Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
vanwill52
Electrical Issue
Dr4Film
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
John Haggard
Roof
davesworld
Electrical Issue
waterskier_1
Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY
Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY
Electrical Issue
Ivylog
Power cord
Dr Russell
Power cord
Dr4Film
Outside temperatures
saflyer
Outside temperatures
Dr4Film
Outside temperatures
saflyer
Power cord
Joel & Susanna
Outside temperatures
Dr4Film
Power cord
cbr046
Power cord
Chuck B
Outside temperatures
saflyer
Electrical Issue
Ray Davis
Electrical Issue
Ray Davis
Electrical Issue
Tom Cherry
camera cable
ekgflashnet

New Posts

Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
Tin man
5 hours ago, Dennis H said:

Ray, the problem with leaving the drawers on the BOTTOM is it makes the upper shelves of the fridge pretty high. Depending on how tall your wife is, that might be an issue. It was for me which is why that drawer was removed. On my Exec, I made no changes to the batteries or the inverter. I installed mine in 2014 and have had zero problems. We full time in the coach..I changed mine out by myself in a campground. Pretty easy to do. The fridge comes in through the emergency window in the living room. If you have access to or a friend who has a forklift, this helps a lot. I made a dolly using 3/4 plywood and four large wheels the same height as the shelf I installed and it slid right into the hole.....hope this helps...Dennis

Thank you Dennis, that helps a lot.  I believe I will change mine out in October.   Thanks again.


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
Romeo84

Literally was researching this topic this week. Amazing write up and explanation. Probably going to change mine out soon now. Have an 01 with the ssi so ya better to do it now. 

Just yo be clear I read it right the old alternator will work with the new system right? Also how do u know which wires to hook up did it come with instructions?? Any chance u can overlay from your pic as to which wire went where? I have the exact same rear box. Again awesome job and thanks!!


Roof
hitechpete
11 hours ago, davesworld said:

I will get up on top and take a closer look

Maybe just tape it off for now

Thanks for all the inputs

Good idea, the last thing you need is a hole in the roof.


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
rpasetto

Roy, Great job on the installation!  

New "handle-less" RF18 has a nicer look than the OEM residentials Monaco used.  Looks like you 'repurposed' the old drawer fronts as cabinet doors up top.  You may be able to sell the doors in eBay to someone looking for panel doors on their Norcold or for using the wood panels for another purpose.

Those pics of the cabinet inside looked so familiar, reminding me of some years back, when I did the RF197 install on the '03 Dynasty I used to have.  Then I saw your signature 🙂


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
JDCrow
18 hours ago, vanwill52 said:

You probably already know about the Li-BIM 225 offered by Precision Circuits, Inc.  If not, take a look.  It interrupts charging to the lithium batteries on a time-based schedule.

 

Li-BIM for Lithium batteries.jpg

Sorry, Jim.  I can't remember much about the DUVAC I had that was equipped with an external regulator.  But it sounds like the "Excite" terminal of the alternator is connected to an "always-on" source.  The "Excite" terminal needs to be energized by an ignition-switched circuit.  I am not sure that installing the ML-ARC would fix that.  Check the "Excite" terminal on the alternator to see if it is energized even when the engine is not running.

I saw this earlier, but must admit I didn’t dig deep enough into its functionality.

At their site, it made sense on how it works and now is a must for me.

Thanks very much for jogging my memory and helping to to take some time to research 


Did I create an issue in the 12 Florescent volt system?
Dr4Film

The LED Florescent Tubes I purchased from http://www.ledrvlighting.com/index.html many years ago work in our coach fixtures whether you remove the ballast or not. However you will not realize the advantage of using the LED tubes with saving the battery drain IF the ballast is not removed.

I chose the Warm White as I hate the Daylight as it is TOO bright and harsh for me.

http://www.ledrvlighting.com/T8-tube.html

I just looked up the LED bulb you purchased from Walmart and the description clearly states, "designed to work with most electronic and magnetic ballasts (check ballast compatibility list before installing)"


Power cord reel
Chuck B

Do yourself a favor by eliminating your power cord reel.  You will end up with dirty contact where the brushes rub on the reel.  By removing the reel, you will have space for something else.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Power cord reel
Capt Mike

And what do you do with your power cord?


Power cord reel
Chuck B

I stored mine on top of my fuel tank.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
miacasa_2000

WOW never expected such a response thank you all for your compliments and questions I will do my best to answer in order with some pics.

Jim: The old one went out and the new one in through the door I removed both front seats and needed every inch years ago I had replaced tv's and shortened front to back the cabinet so we could walk in without hitting it just ourselves it would not have worked this way with the original tv cabinet. FYI. I didn't and really should have removed the ice maker supply from the back first we got hung up on that had to back out and remove it, also tape your MH door frame edges. And I will try to sell the whole thing before I take it apart or dump it.  I will only keep my wood panels for any future projects.

Todd & Karen: Yes and all bins come out.

Richard: I do have the fridge fixer installed.

Ray: First I couldn't hold the fridge up to the top where the old one was the right would not open very far because of the pocket door top rail so I went as low as I could which involved difficult work to cut the main floor behind the wires to move them tighter to the wall to clear the fridge having the new fridge floor another 3" higher would have eliminated that but I wanted it as low as possible. What you think are drawers at the top are fake I used the bottom (old) cross pc. and side pc. magnetic latches and cut one drawer front in half for the top and the other in thirds for the bottom. I have made no electrical changes yet. After my shake down run if all is ok I will pull it back out to add a switch (behind one of the top fake drawers) to turn the unit off and on and add a switch and coupling for winterizing the ice maker.

Bob: I seriously thought  about the Amish route because my box was in such great shape and I wouldn't loose my junk drawers. Cost was the same.

Keith & Suzanne: If the whole thing doesn't go I would gladly give you those thing at the cost of packaging and shipping.

Bill: Ditto as above you do realize you need the whole doors for the seals. 

Dennis: I agree venting isn't necessary but access is. I also sealed my vent holes and cut a pc. of walk mat to help insulate outside wall easily pops right out. 

When I pull the unit for above mentioned work I bore you with more pics these pictures are small on my desktop but some how come out huge in here. Anyway should also mention for some reason Samsung wheels have no adjustments just screw down pads to keep it in place which you have to remove anyway but the unit does not sit level leans toward the rear thought that a little strange for a counter depth that usually is enclosed on the sides I thought that the reveal looked horrible so I attached a shim to the floor under rear rollers angle Iron under the front keeps it in place. Wood stops on the back wall for depth alignment and stops also at the top front sides wedged tight accessible thru fake drawers to keep any top side to side movement while traveling.

Roy Mercier   2003 Dynasty

Forgot the pics20210806_091149.thumb.jpg.607d003ca14d2900aa7f787e2f5b3653.jpg

20210806_091050.jpg

20210806_091141.jpg

20210806_091413.jpg

20210806_090759.jpg

20210806_090823.jpg

20210806_090843.jpg

20210806_090903.jpg


Power cord reel
Rick A

You will end up with dirty contact where the brushes rub on the reel.” Not sure I understand the cause and effect. Isn’t it simpler to just clean/replace the contacts (a relatively small job) rather than removing the entire wheel which would create a lifetime chore? I think the reel is a space saver by definition. 
 


Power cord reel
Larry Laursen

I have a powered power cord reel on my coach.  Have used it for 16 years, 130,000 miles and hundreds of in and outs.  Never had any problems with the brushes.  The previous coach had a free power cord and I wouldn't give up the powered reel and go backwards.


Did I create an issue in the 12 Florescent volt system?
Rich Cutler

Gary,

It was the tube light, not the LED strip that was using the ballast.  Direct replacement to the florescent as Richard has referenced is what I tried as that is what I figured compatible meant and it works with the florescent..   The LED strip kit I installed , yes the ballast was removed and I don't like the bright daylight effect.  it is OK in the isolated bath toilet.    I will install my own strips that have a lower kelvin temperature, or at least test them out to see the effect.   I and the wife also dislike the DAYLIGHT type.

I liked the tube LED if it would not have blown something.  I guess I will look closer for a blown fuse again.   There are so many of those darn things in the cabinet and my eyes are not as good as they were.   I did not realize that the ballast would have to be removed as it said compatible with most.   

Maybe upgrades are not worth the effort all the time.  I just did MCD shades, and regardless of what they say, the don't just "easily snap in" even with the upgrade clip.   You also need a 4 inch thick head to get into the valence to attach the clip and see what you are doing.   


Power cord reel
Chuck B

Whatever works for you.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Power cord reel
vito.a

Maybe it's dependent on the type of climate you live in.  In AZ the cord reels work great and last for years but if you live near salt spray and humidity they would corrode.  


Power cord reel
Nevada Rob

I would have to fall on the side of keeping the power cord set up. My cord winds into a steel drum located in the center of the coach between the AquaHot on the right and the service bay panel on the left. If the reel system failed I am not sure how you would even get it out. Maybe piece by piece? I would say the the cord reel winds the power cord into a smaller cubic space than if it was loose and coiled by me. This is exactly why I LOVE AMERICA. We all can have an opinion and ideas, agree to disagree and respect other views and thoughts. 


Power cord reel
John Haggard
5 minutes ago, vito.a said:

Maybe it's dependent on the type of climate you live in.  in AZ the cord reels work great and last for years but if you live near salt spray and humidity they would corrode.  

Yes

And there were cheap reals used and quality reals installed. 

 

Also

If you look at some pictures posted by some owners you can see that never has there been any house cleaning or maintenance done. 

Like batteries and other electrical

Equipment with a quarter inch of dust, grease and grime covering everything. 

 


Did I create an issue in the 12 Florescent volt system?
Dr4Film

Rich,

All of the domestic 12 VDC fuses in my coach are located in a panel within an overhead cabinet in the bedroom. There are a number of them for different lights etc. There is also a paper listing each fuse and a description of what circuit it protects.

Domestic 12 VDC Fuse Panel.jpg

Domestic 12 VDC Fuse Descriptions.jpg


Power cord reel
Chuck B

Yes John, there is a huge difference between a power cord reel, and the drum a power cord is stored in.  Preventative Maintenance is the key to keeping things working property.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor 


Did I create an issue in the 12 Florescent volt system?
Rich Cutler

Thanks for the post Richard.  Mine being newer should also have IDs but It is second hand, so the list went????


Electrical Issue
jacwjames

Have you checked your transfer switch yet???  Do you know you have power coming in on both L1 & L2 and then transfering to the coach. 

Also, my outlet in the basement is part of my bathroom/bedroom circuit and is controlled by a GFCI breaker (not and outlet type).  When I was having trouble the circuit would work off the inverter but it would kill my generator.  I had to run a new wire from the inverter subpanel to the outlet behind the TV and rewire the rest of the circuit essentially abandoning the original wire feeding the circuit.  Took me a while to figure this out and then come up with a way to rewire the outlets.   I suspect that it may have been caused by mice and while driving the wires finally shorted out.  Since that portion of the wiring is in the ceiling I'll never know the actual cause.

 

 


Power cord reel
Monte Roger Fautin

Great info and flow of ideas.

Love my power cord, 2008 Signature, how do you clean the drum?


Did I create an issue in the 12 Florescent volt system?
RVSSNAKE

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08GG18HVW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are what I just put in ours a couple of months ago except for above the sink and seem to be working just fine.

I did bypass the ballast.

Color temp is similar to the fluorescents.   


Power cord reel
Chuck B

Take a damp wet hand towel and place it around the power cord as it retracts into the drum.  That will clean most anything that is on the power cord.  As to having access to the inside of the drum, I do not know.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Power cord reel
John Haggard
4 minutes ago, Monte Roger Fautin said:

Great info and flow of ideas.

Love my power cord, 2008 Signature, how do you clean the drum?

Outside ?

Simple green or Awsome diluted .

Usually annually or as needed. 

Then wipe down with spray wax.

Inside ?

I wipe the cord with a damp cloth, paper towling as the cord reals in so the inside stays clean.

The power real, just wipe it off as needed. 

 


Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY

I've been mucking around for the past hour and a half, of course with the occasional break for morning coffee.

And I think I've managed to possibly get myself even more confused as I go along to the point that I'm thinking RV electrician.

I am attaching 2 pictures. Both of which should look familiar to the knowledgeable peeps on here.

The gray one is, of course, the left side breaker box in the bedroom. The second, brown one, is where the intellitec board was indeed found. (I looked carefully at that board, it's a Model 760) and it looks fine. No burned smells coming from the box and no scorched earth policy undertaken by the imaginary gremlin sharing my living space.

Several things I've found.

First off. The gray panel.

Breaker 2, shuts off circuits as advertised, Test trip button also tripped the breaker, as advertised.

Breaker 3, 3rd from the bottom, Inverter L1, when tripped, does nothing. No change to power status and no circuits noticed as turning off. (Don't jump to a conclusion yet, please read on.)

Breaker 5, no change. (If you will recall, using the microwave/convection was the original cause of this whole mess)

Breaker 6, 6th from the bottom, Inverter L2, when tripped, appears to shut off the remaining AC outlets but does NOT turn off the front roof mounted A/C (air conditioner)

Breaker 7, does nothing when tripped (Kitchen AC plugs which aren't working right now because of the main problem) That being said, I attempted to trip it via the GFC test button and it did NOT trip.

Now, onto the Brown Panel.

Inverter L1 breaker when tripped shuts down the currently working A/C plugs. (On the gray panel, shutting off L1 did NOTHING)

Inverter L2 breaker when tripped has no apparent effect anywhere. (On the gray panel it shut off some A/C plugs)

So, what I have found here is that between the 2 panels, on the Gray panel L1 does nothing but on the brown panel L1 shuts things off. As for L2, on the Gray panel shuts things off, but on the brown one, it does nothing.

Also, Breaker 7 might have a problem unless it's normal that at GFC breaker won't trip when pressing the test button, if there is no power to that circuit.

So, in final, what does the above stuff tell us?

 

 

RV GRAY BOX.jpg

RV BROWN BOX.jpg


Did I create an issue in the 12 Florescent volt system?
Gary Cole

That's interesting information about the RV LED replacement tubes. Something I wasn't aware of. Makes me think that the RV ballasts are designed to use a type of florescent tube which uses a preheater filament and when the gas is ionized the tube then operates on 12 VDC without a voltage boost. I really don't know how energy efficient such a design would be considering the lumen/watt ratio.  I upgraded my coach to LED lighting sometime ago and did not keep any of the old ballasts or I would check one out to see exactly how they work and measure the current draw. Maybe I didn't save as much energy as I thought I was going to.  

 


Did I create an issue in the 12 Florescent volt system?
Walker

Rich- my eyes aren't what they used to be either.  Looking for blown fuses is a challenge.   I've started using the voltmeter with the sound on to check continuity.  The back of the fuse is open so I just probe both sides while it is still installed.


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
vanwill52
6 hours ago, Romeo84 said:

Literally was researching this topic this week. Amazing write up and explanation. Probably going to change mine out soon now. Have an 01 with the ssi so ya better to do it now. 

Just yo be clear I read it right the old alternator will work with the new system right? Also how do u know which wires to hook up did it come with instructions?? Any chance u can overlay from your pic as to which wire went where? I have the exact same rear box. Again awesome job and thanks!!

Yes, the old alternator will work.  You still have to connect the voltage sensing wire from the alternator to the positive post of one of the battery banks.  I don't think it would matter which battery bank you connected to, since both with be receiving a charging voltage.  For that matter, since the voltage-sensing feature was only to counter the 0.7 VDC drop across the SSI, I suppose you could simply connect it to the alternator's output post.  I've never done that, so I can't say from experience that it would work...just don't see any reason why not.

As for which wires to hook where, the directions that come with the ML-ACR are simple and clear.  Sorry, I'm not good at annotating pictures.  Basically, you take the center cable from your SSI (the alternator output) and combine it with the cable (from the SSI) going to your chassis batteries on ONE of the large posts of ML-ACR, and connect the other cable from the SSI (from house batteries) to the OTHER large post of the ML-ACR.  It's easy and the instructions are clear.  You can probably view the instructions on the Blue Sea site.


Electrical Issue
Dr4Film

Power from the transfer switch goes directly to the Brown Panel FIRST which are all NON-INVERTER Loads. Then onto the Grey Panel which are all Inverter Powered loads.

See attached diagram.

Trace RV-2012 Schematic.pdf


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
John Haggard
5 minutes ago, vanwill52 said:

Yes, the old alternator will work.  You still have to connect the voltage sensing wire from the alternator to the positive post of one of the battery banks.  I don't think it would matter which battery bank you connected to, since both with be receiving a charging voltage.  For that matter, since the voltage-sensing feature was only to counter the 0.7 VDC drop across the SSI, I suppose you could simply connect it to the alternator's output post.  I've never done that, so I can't say from experience that it would work...just don't see any reason why not.

As for which wires to hook where, the directions that come with the ML-ACR are simple and clear.  Sorry, I'm not good at annotating pictures.  Basically, you take the center cable from your SSI (the alternator output) and combine it with the cable (from the SSI) going to your chassis batteries on ONE of the large posts of ML-ACR, and connect the other cable from the SSI (from house batteries) to the OTHER large post of the ML-ACR.  It's easy and the instructions are clear.  You can probably view the instructions on the Blue Sea site.

I prefer attaching to the positive on the chassis battery myself. 

It's personal choise .


Roof
davesworld

Yes it is the wind thingy Looking back at my photos of the summer with the Rv must’ve lost it a while ago taped up the hole for now.

Thanks all for your help


Electrical Issue
waterskier_1
6 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Power from the transfer switch goes directly to the Brown Panel FIRST which are all NON-INVERTER Loads. Then onto the Grey Panel which are all Inverter Powered loads.

See attached diagram.

Trace RV-2012 Schematic.pdf 305.61 kB · 3 downloads

To add clarity, after leaving the Brown panel (called the Main Breaker Panel) the inverter power goes to the inverter, and then to the Gray Panel (called the Inverter Sub-Panel).  All the circuits in the Main Power Panel should work even if you don't have the inverter.  All the circuits in the Inverter Sub-Panel will only work if the inverter in in place.  When on Shore Power, this circuit pass-through the inverter to the inverter Sub-Panel.  When there is no shore (or generator) power,  ONLY the circuits in the Inverter Sub-Panel will function.   NONE of the circuits in the Main Power Panel will work.   I'm hoping this will help sort out what is happening and lead to a solution. 


Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY
On 8/4/2021 at 9:47 AM, jacwjames said:

 

........................... I would check the two lines going to the 50 amp breaker, these are the wires that come from the transfer switch, both should have 120 volts on them.  If there is power on both of them then the transfer switch is good, if not the problem points to the circuit board.

 

I just checked those 50 amp breakers and sure enough, the right one is not registering anything.

If both of those inputs come from the transfer switch, and one is dead, then that would mean the transfer switch, the shore power cord, or even possibly a breaker on the Pedestal, would be bad, correct?

Would this ATS be an acceptable alternative to the Esco LPT50-BRD?

From what I've been reading, there is a definite and palpable hatred of IOTA and I get it. If the dang IOTA is causing this, then I need to get it replaced most quickly if not sooner.

 

https://www.campingworld.com/50-amp-automatic-transfer-switch-50065.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ppc&utm_campaign={Campaign}&gclid=Cj0KCQjwu7OIBhCsARIsALxCUaPyVFmP4W981bVzdQgUtGcnY4Qk1nejQ7f2TJc28rCyW1O7O3X3rXIaAm1OEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds


Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY

To keep it simple in my head, if I'm reading everything right, I've got a problem somewhere between the Pedestal up to and including the POS IOTA ATS. Would that be a fair summation?

On the presumption that the ATS has gone or is in the process, I'm going to head to Reno and pick up a replacement ATS.


Electrical Issue
Ivylog

Grey panel’s #2 & #6 breakers are GFI breakers… you do not need to add a GFI outlet to the basement.


Power cord
Dr Russell

Has anyone installed a lighter shore power cable?


Power cord
Dr4Film

Dwight,

Sorta hard to understand exactly what you mean by "lighter".

50 amp RV shore power cords HAVE to have 6 gauge for each wire, Load 1, Load 2, Neutral and Ground. The longer the cord the heavier it will be when all coiled up.

The best cable for 50 amp shore cords are ones labeled SOOW. They stay flexible even in frigid weather.


Outside temperatures
saflyer
On 6/10/2021 at 10:23 AM, Nevada Rob said:

I was under the impression that an A/C unit in good operating condition should be able to exchange heat temps in the 22 -24 degree range. Humidity will play a roll in the overall big picture. Lower RH conditions will be better for an A/C unit. 

Recently I watched a video by a factory expert who said the units are good if they lower the temperature 16-22° between the inlet and outlets. This confirms what I have heard in the past.

Ed           
‘05 Ambassador 

On 6/11/2021 at 6:57 PM, Frank McElroy said:

Sometimes pictures are worth a thousand words.  Here is a picture of how Monaco at the factory installed the foam seal to the AC top.  The other picture shows how I correctly installed the seal to the condenser and associated other areas so that all the fan air now flows through the condenser coils.

I'm the original owner and after 10 years I was wondering why there wasn't much debris collecting on those coils.  Well, now I know why.  What I can say is that it made a huge difference in the AC cooling capacity after I properly installed those foam seals on my 3 rooftop AC units.

IMG_20170419_132414107.jpg

IMG_20170418_140454324.jpg

Which picture is which?


Outside temperatures
Dr4Film

Ed.

The general rule of thumb for RV Air Conditioners is that they will keep the RV 20 degrees Fahrenheit cooler than the outside ambient air temperature. If the RV is in direct sunlight on a hot day the AC unit will even have a harder time keeping up. A shaded RV campsite will help improve the cooling efficiency of the Air Conditioner.


Outside temperatures
saflyer
On 6/12/2021 at 7:49 AM, Frank McElroy said:

Yes, I also have the Penguin heat pump.  I believe part numbers 15 and 16 are the gaskets.  Somewhere I found a picture of how to properly install them but now I can't seem to find it.  It will be interesting to see what you find when you pull off the top cover.

I purchased replacement top covers from eTrailer.com for my A/C units and they came with foam insulation strips cut to fit and instructions for placement. The instructions showed to attach the foam to the unit itself and not the cover. 

On 6/13/2021 at 8:40 AM, Dr4Film said:

Steven,

The original Penguin-I had the gasket foam attached to the covers. Both sets of Penguin-I's that I installed were that way, The covers of the second set became brittle and were damaged. So I purchased two new covers from Icon-Direct and had to install new foam as the replacement covers did not come with it installed. I bought the gasket material from one of the big box stores and put in directly on the AC not the cover.

The two new Penguin-II's that I installed in 2018 had the foam installed directly onto the AC and not the covers.

The two models are basically identical in structure so you can install the foam exactly like how it is on the Penguin-II.

Photos attached showing the differences.

image.thumb.png.34d90178c4bfafa18c8b7c77eb6737f9.png

image.png

Off topic but were the IIs quieter than the Is?

On 6/13/2021 at 12:35 PM, Dr4Film said:

Dometic thinks these strips are Gold based on the price.

https://www.dyersonline.com/dometic-a-c-penguin-foam-kit.html

Dometic also sells the four gold screws to attach the cover to the base for about $22.


Power cord
Joel & Susanna

A lighter cable with smaller internal wires (ie 10, 12, or 16 gauge) will not provide the required voltage to your AC units, fridge, etc. Stay with your original power cord with the required 6 gauge internal wires.


Outside temperatures
Dr4Film
1 hour ago, saflyer said:

Off topic but we’re the IIs quieter than the Is?

I tend to think so but I have custom made AC Muffler's installed on mine so I really don't know.


Power cord
cbr046

I run a 14 gauge extension cord at home just to keep the batts fresh and fridge on and plug it into the 50A cord inside the storage bay.  No AC, Elec hot water or other energy gobbling devices.  And I throttle back the on-board energy management system to 15A to make sure I don't overtax the system.  I doubt it could handle much more than 10A as it's 100 ft long. 

It's also the same cord my dad used for shore power on boating trips in the 1960's.  Nostalgia is a precious thing. 

- bob


Power cord
Chuck B

I thought they all came in black.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Outside temperatures
saflyer
On 6/19/2021 at 9:58 AM, Steven P said:

I found my pic from my original cover where the service dept broke it.  No holes in passenger side.  No pics of driver side.  

20180909_164353_resized.jpg

I have same covers and there are no holes in either side.

Ed            
‘05 HR Ambassador 

On 7/26/2021 at 8:07 AM, Chuck B said:

Let me add something to this thread.  Has anyone opened up the area where the air flow leaves the AC going into the duct?  You might be surprised to see what you find.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor

One question. I noticed today that the rear A/C has four registers. Two on one side blow OK, one on other side blows a little and the other doesn’t seem to have any air movement at all. I wonder what are the possibilities of fixing this problem and where to look?

Ed         
‘05 HR Ambassador 


Electrical Issue
Ray Davis
8 hours ago, LJPierce_ELY said:

Breaker 7, does nothing when tripped (Kitchen AC plugs which aren't working right now because of the main problem) That being said, I attempted to trip it via the GFC test button and it did NOT trip.

Did you use the Fluke to see if you are getting power out of breaker number 7  ?

If there is no power out of breaker 7  try switching the breaker with breaker #2 and see if the problem moves with the breaker.

Actually since #7 GFCI breaker doesn't trip as it should,  I would just go ahead and swap the breakers.

Wouldn't it be nice if the problem is that breaker?


Electrical Issue
Ray Davis

 

 

RV GRAY BOX.jpg

6 hours ago, Ivylog said:

Grey panel’s #2 & #6 breakers are GFI breakers… you do not need to add a GFI outlet to the basement.

Look again,  looks like #7 to me.


Electrical Issue
Tom Cherry
7 hours ago, LJPierce_ELY said:

I just checked those 50 amp breakers and sure enough, the right one is not registering anything.

If both of those inputs come from the transfer switch, and one is dead, then that would mean the transfer switch, the shore power cord, or even possibly a breaker on the Pedestal, would be bad, correct?

Would this ATS be an acceptable alternative to the Esco LPT50-BRD?

From what I've been reading, there is a definite and palpable hatred of IOTA and I get it. If the dang IOTA is causing this, then I need to get it replaced most quickly if not sooner.

 

https://www.campingworld.com/50-amp-automatic-transfer-switch-50065.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ppc&utm_campaign={Campaign}&gclid=Cj0KCQjwu7OIBhCsARIsALxCUaPyVFmP4W981bVzdQgUtGcnY4Qk1nejQ7f2TJc28rCyW1O7O3X3rXIaAm1OEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

We, or at least me, does NOT remember reading anything about the Progressive Dynamics ATS. 

However, we have never had anyone make a complaint or have an issue with an ESCO Product. That is your call.

Personally, I would go with the LPT50BRD. That is the number one switch stocked at most large RV Shops...

The customer service and tech support from ESCO are impeccable....

NOW....you MIGHT ought to consider installing the Progressive Industries HW50C.  If you do it now, then you will have an upstream (it does on the LINE or the SHORE input....PRIOR to the ATS....Surge Suppressor as well as a "LINE MONITOR" that checks for all sorts of power conditions and SHUTS DOWN before you blow something up.

If you put in the ESCO (or any NEW ATS), you will have to PULL the SHORE line from the NEW ATS and run it to the HW50C....and run a short jumper or connector to the new ATS.  

It is YOUR call....but most here have surge protection or should....and the two component system is reliable and field servicable


camera cable
ekgflashnet

I have a 2005 dynasty with a panasonic rear view camera.  I need to replace this camera with has a s-video type of connector.  The current camera is a panasonic tw-cc200bamt.  does any one know of a replacement camera I can use?  I don't want to change the monitor, just the rear-view camera.

thanks,

steveg 2005 DDIV


Power cord
pwhittle

I used this.

Southwire 19190008 6/3 & 8/1 SEOW 50 Amp, 125/250-Volt Outdoor Extension Cord CA-Style CS63 Twist-Lock, Custom Blended Jacket, Extra Hard Usage Cord, 100-Feet, 100-Foot, Black
More information:  

I removed the connectors and got enough installed that I have 50ft outside the coach when it is all out of the powered Glendinning cord that drops into a container.

It is much smaller diameter and more flexible than the original Glendinning cable. Glendinning has different sized drive rollers for the smaller diameter cable.

It is normally priced around $300, not the current $500+ it is currently showing. Check for other sources.

Paul


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
JetAburner
23 hours ago, JetAburner said:

Would be interested in the shelves, door shelves and ice maker if possible. Can do paypal to cover parts and shipping to Ca.

 

Thank you Roy

Regards

Keith & Suzanne


Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY
58 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

 

 

RV GRAY BOX.jpg

Look again,  looks like #7 to me.

I stand corrected. I typed that out in a hurry. Yes. #7.

1 hour ago, Ray Davis said:

Did you use the Fluke to see if you are getting power out of breaker number 7  ?

If there is no power out of breaker 7  try switching the breaker with breaker #2 and see if the problem moves with the breaker.

Actually since #7 GFCI breaker doesn't trip as it should,  I would just go ahead and swap the breakers.

Wouldn't it be nice if the problem is that breaker?

I did not switch the breakers. After another response, I checked the power on the main breakers from the Brown covered panel which apparently gets powered up from the Auto transfer Switch. The right main breaker on that panel, which should have power, is dead.

So, instead of mucking around with playing with an otherwise potential arson special with the darned IOTA, and the fact that I want my Generator back online instead of being a useless weight to be hauled around (when I'm in Mo-bile Domi-cile mode), I'm just replacing the IOTA.

I will feel much better doing that. Then, if I still have a power problem, it will then be diagnosed as either the pedestal, my head connector, or somewhere around the power box next to the power cord reel.


Electrical Issue
Ray Davis

Seems like a good plan,  replacing the IOTA.

Let us know how it goes.


Electrical Issue
Tom Cherry
9 hours ago, LJPierce_ELY said:

I've been mucking around for the past hour and a half, of course with the occasional break for morning coffee.

And I think I've managed to possibly get myself even more confused as I go along to the point that I'm thinking RV electrician.

I am attaching 2 pictures. Both of which should look familiar to the knowledgeable peeps on here.

The gray one is, of course, the left side breaker box in the bedroom. The second, brown one, is where the intellitec board was indeed found. (I looked carefully at that board, it's a Model 760) and it looks fine. No burned smells coming from the box and no scorched earth policy undertaken by the imaginary gremlin sharing my living space.

Several things I've found.

First off. The gray panel.

Breaker 2, shuts off circuits as advertised, Test trip button also tripped the breaker, as advertised.

Breaker 3, 3rd from the bottom, Inverter L1, when tripped, does nothing. No change to power status and no circuits noticed as turning off. (Don't jump to a conclusion yet, please read on.)

Breaker 5, no change. (If you will recall, using the microwave/convection was the original cause of this whole mess)

Breaker 6, 6th from the bottom, Inverter L2, when tripped, appears to shut off the remaining AC outlets but does NOT turn off the front roof mounted A/C (air conditioner)

Breaker 7, does nothing when tripped (Kitchen AC plugs which aren't working right now because of the main problem) That being said, I attempted to trip it via the GFC test button and it did NOT trip.

Now, onto the Brown Panel.

Inverter L1 breaker when tripped shuts down the currently working A/C plugs. (On the gray panel, shutting off L1 did NOTHING)

Inverter L2 breaker when tripped has no apparent effect anywhere. (On the gray panel it shut off some A/C plugs)

So, what I have found here is that between the 2 panels, on the Gray panel L1 does nothing but on the brown panel L1 shuts things off. As for L2, on the Gray panel shuts things off, but on the brown one, it does nothing.

Also, Breaker 7 might have a problem unless it's normal that at GFC breaker won't trip when pressing the test button, if there is no power to that circuit.

So, in final, what does the above stuff tell us?

 

 

RV GRAY BOX.jpg

RV BROWN BOX.jpg

I started this and QUIT....

Richard and WaterSkier....HELP ME OUT WITH THIS and COMMENT...

First, The Gray Panel is a SUB Panel....as pointed out.  The main power comes in from the BROWN PANEL.

IF you have successfully measure voltages with the FLUKE....I am going to have you do some MORE...

POWER OFF (SHORE and GENNY TRIPPED and Solar covered).

Remove the covers from the IOTA, the BROWN (EMS) and GRAY (Sub).

Follow my post and RESET THE EMS.  THAT IS THE FIRST THING.... 

NOW.....STOP and tighten every lug or screw you see inside the IOTA, Brown and Gray.  LOOK FOR HOT SPOTS OR BURNS......this is PM....and you need to do it.....

Next....put power back on from SHORE....

ANY CHANGE? WHAT is the EMS Reading? HOPE THAT FIXES IT....but we need to KNOW what is going on now.

IF NOT....then we need voltage measurements the following

IOTA INCOMING (Shore) line

IOTA OUTGOING (Panel or LOAD) Line

MAIN incoming LUGS to the 50 Amp Breakers

Measure and let us know...

Line 1 Black - Line 2 Red should be 230 VAC

Line 1 Black - Neutral White as well as to Ground Should be 115 VAC

Line 2 Red to Neutral and Ground....see above. should be 115 VAC.

Neutral to GROUND - Should be ZERO.

OK....POINTS that baffle me....but opinions. I THINK you will see there there is NO WIRE connected to the Line 2 Breaker in the Brown Panel. This MIGHT have been a spare for use with TWO Inverters. IF YOU ONLY HAVE ONE....then the Line 1 Inverter breaker is going to the TRACE..  If you have something on the Line 2 Breaker, then GOD ONLY KNOWS....

Richard and WaterSkier.....AGAIN....I am Baffled by the oversized Sub Panel.

There are ONLY TWO 115 Vac Circuits from the TRACE....UNLESS HE GOT TWO TRACES?

ALL....The age of the GFCI breakers, based on Fred White (our deceased WIndsor expert) is PROBABLY any issue.  Fred had to replace his and finally got mad and pulled them out. The GFCI Receptacles go BAd...DON'T know about the breakers....but I have had to replace SD GFCI breakers at home...but the were constantly TRIPPING....

I will reach out to Chuck, another Windsor expert.....

BUT....7 CIRCUITS OK....here goes.....pure speculation...

Breaker 2. AHA....that means that ONE of the TWO Trace outputs is WORKING.....

Breaker 3. BEATS ME....With the cover OFF....does it have an outgoing or branch circuit....or it is JUST A SPARE with nothing.  YOU TELL US!

Breaker 5. MY GUESS....there is a TRACE ISSUE...or MAYBE...a LOOSE WIRE in the panel. IF Monaco did this like MOST OTHER COACHES....they took the Second 115 Line from the TRACE and split it.  

One side went to Breaker 5....which is the Microwave.  No incoming power....no juice....

The OTHER side (split feed) went to Breaker 7. They protected the Kitchen outlets, per code.

SOOOOOO  IF you only have ONE output or one line working from the TRACE, it is the REAR.  That would explain Breaker 2.

Next up....Breaker 6. This is a NON INVERTER circuit....it goes to OUTLETS that are NOT powered when the Inverter is ON. They will work with the GENNY, obviously.

You did NOT mention the icemaker....Does the Refer Outlet in the back of the refer area have POWER to the Icemaker or not.

That's about as FAR as I can go with what I know....or even suspect.

CONCLUSIONS? more like SWAG or Theories.

The EMS got funky.  There was some sort of blip. The EMS clock needs to be RESET per the procedure....so that you are showing FULL (50 A) power.  IF that is STILL bad and the incoming voltages are OK, then call M M RV Electronics in Ohio City, Ohio. They are our experts. They are the Intellitec Tech Support.  You MAY have an issue with the REMOTE (they go bad) or the board itself.....That is way past me...

SECOND....BUT, even IF you had a blip or even if you only have ONE LEG (Line 1) from the IOTA....then the Inverter should work. There is ONLY ONE 115 VAC Incoming LINE.  The ATS inside the TRACE put out TWO 115 VAC lines. Basically, you have a 30 Amp INPUT....and you get TWO 15 Amp Outputs. You are Loosing or MISSING that leg.  

Internal to the TRACE?  NO IDEA.

BUT, you CAN start to measure voltages in side the panels... You MAY find that you have SPARE Breakers doing NOTHING

let us know........


Power cord
Tom Cherry
5 hours ago, Chuck B said:

I thought they all came in black.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor

Chuck,

Need your help on a 2002 Windsor.  Please go here....and read and assist if you can...

Thanks,

 


Lost the low beams on my headlights...
ktloah

Michel, I did find the problem with no low beams...it was the J12 plug on the smart wheel controller. Ran new wires to a separate relay, and it works just fine. There are multiple replies on how to....good luck!  04 Dynasty 


No low beams, just high beams 2002 Dynasty
ktloah

Awesome Patrick.....happy trails


Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY

Now that is detailed.

Let me get the IOTA replaced and go from there. I already know it's bad because it won't switch over to Generator power.

I'm reducing my overnight power usage to just the Air Cond. and a couple of fans to minimize power usage until I can get the IOTA replaced tomorrow and I'm hopeful that will take care of the problem. If not, then everything will be tightened and I'll start with the above tests.

When I went and got the replacement ATS today, the parts guy at the dealer in Reno was shocked that there was still an IOTA in use. I asked him if he wanted it for a museum of what not to do, but got the impression he'd much prefer me to just take it out and use it for target practice. I will oblige.

Does anyone have a schematic of how those IOTA's are wired? I'd like to be able to easily tell what wire goes to what without having to unravel spaghetti.

A thank you in advance AND for everything else that's been typed on this.

 

 


Electrical Issue
Tom Cherry
43 minutes ago, LJPierce_ELY said:

Now that is detailed.

Let me get the IOTA replaced and go from there. I already know it's bad because it won't switch over to Generator power.

I'm reducing my overnight power usage to just the Air Cond. and a couple of fans to minimize power usage until I can get the IOTA replaced tomorrow and I'm hopeful that will take care of the problem. If not, then everything will be tightened and I'll start with the above tests.

When I went and got the replacement ATS today, the parts guy at the dealer in Reno was shocked that there was still an IOTA in use. I asked him if he wanted it for a museum of what not to do, but got the impression he'd much prefer me to just take it out and use it for target practice. I will oblige.

Does anyone have a schematic of how those IOTA's are wired? I'd like to be able to easily tell what wire goes to what without having to unravel spaghetti.

A thank you in advance AND for everything else that's been typed on this.

 

 

I posted a schematic in one of the posts.

The IOTA is plainly marked when you take off the cover.  Just follow the wiring.  I am really on the fence about this.

I have LOST the flow and train of thought....so I went back...

FIRST....you probably DO have a BAD ATS. The key is the AC now working. The AC's are NOT part of the INVERTER circuit. Line 2 or the RED leg is GONE. That is why you do NOT have an AC.  That I can reliably SAY IS A FACT. 

The fact that the Genny is not switching is also a good sign.

WHILE you are changing out the IOTA, do the RESET of the EMS (remove the brown panel). YOU NEED TO DO THIS TO GET A FRESH START.

NOW....for the BAD NEWS.....  This is NOT gonna, IMHO, fix your Microwave and other power issues. The Inverter is being FED off Line 1 (from the BROWN Panel). It is SPLIT into TWO legs (YES....MONACO was STUPID....the LINE 1 and LINE 2 are confusing). UNLESS you have TWO inverters, then as long as you have SOME inverter power, then that single Line 1 coming into the INVTERTER is OK....but what has happened is that you do NOT have TWO OUTPUTS....

NOW if you DO have TWO TRACE INVERTERS....then if one leg to them is DEAD....then YES....the new ATS will fix that.

Put in the SWITCH. You will restore your AC and the Genny should work.

BUT, don't hold your breath on the rest.

NOW>>>>>>>>  READ THIS CAREFULLY.....

AFTER you install the IOTA, KILL THE MAIN PANEL 50 AMP BREAKERS......

THEN do the Voltage Testing that I outlined. Test the INCOMING (SHORE) and the OUTGOING (Panel or Load).

IF you have a BAD Pedestal or connections......like a FLOATING NEUTRAL, then you will damage or do MORE damage.

You MUST have the proper voltages on the SHORE and the PANEL.

Read one of my posts.

Line 1 to Line 2 - 230 VAC

Line 1 to Neutral (white) and then L1 to Ground should be 115 VAC

Same for Line 2 (red) to Neutral and Ground.

There should be ZERO Voltage from Neutral to GROUND....if you have a few millivolts, that is a meter "error"....but close to zero.

IF you do not get the 115 VAC to BOTH Neutral and Ground from Line 1 and Line 2, then STOP....you will cause more issues.

Sorry if this is confusing....but until you VERIFY the incoming power through the NEW ATS....then do NOT turn ON the main breaker.... 

 


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