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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/507-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
throgmartin
Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
moxy1962
Slide operation
Steven
Slide operation
jacwjames
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
moxy1962
Slide operation
Steven
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
dl_racing427
Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
scottjo02
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
jacwjames
camera cable
Ivan K
Slide operation
Nevada Rob
Electrical Issue
waterskier_1
camera cable
waterskier_1
camera cable
Ivan K
Alternator replaced now out again
Hancoman
How often do HWH control units fail?
obb_taurus
Outside temperatures
Steven P
Power cord reel
vanwill52
Slide operation
Ivylog
How often do HWH control units fail?
obb_taurus
Aqua hot problems
RS lakeshore
How often do HWH control units fail?
Nevada Rob
Power cord reel
Nevada Rob
Slide operation
jacwjames
Aqua hot problems
Nevada Rob
Slide operation
Nevada Rob
Slide operation
jacwjames
How often do HWH control units fail?
obb_taurus
Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY
Aqua hot problems
John Haggard
How often do HWH control units fail?
Nevada Rob
Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
BobSchmeck
How often do HWH control units fail?
Nevada Rob
Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
Corkman
How often do HWH control units fail?
obb_taurus
Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY
Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
BobSchmeck
Slow moving slide
Darren A.
Fuel injector Calibration error
jimamcg
Electrical Issue
jacwjames
Splendid vented washer disaster
IlliniCathy
Torque Values for Wheels
tmw188

New Posts

Did I create an issue in the 12 Florescent volt system?
tmw188

I’ve just finished converting all the lighting (except the vanity lights) to 12v LED strips. I did the same thing on my last coach. All I do is cut the BLK12v wire after the switch leaving about 3”, doing the same to the WHT ground wire. Purchase the correct width pigtails from the LED supplier to fit the light strips.  Wire each strip to the the two wires that were cut. I use small wire nuts to join them together. I leave the abandoned ballast in place, put the cover back on. I purchase everything from a local company and pick up in person. SuperBrightLeds.com  When to cut these strips to length as you know it shows where to cut them, but if it falls on a solder joint made in manufacturing you will have to use use the pigtail on the other end of the strip on one section of that strip you cut in half or the pigtail will not slip over the strip. Because of that the polarity will be out 180. Keep that in mind when wire nutting them together on that modified strip. Sounds confusing but you will see if you do it. I can provide a mock-up of what I’m saying in a picture later if needed. 

 

15848435-5DA5-462E-B6A7-EF7897D35597.jpeg

31BD8251-A623-43B9-A5B3-E6E61607B7BC.jpeg


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
throgmartin

Before you trash your old Norcold, remove the wooden panel inserts from the door and store them. The wood can be used later for any cabinet project inside the coach. I saved all my door inserts and am going to be using them for a cabinet I am going to build for the bedroom.


Did I create an issue in the 12 Florescent volt system?
Ivylog

Didn’t know a 06 Windsor has the multiplex system. I would be looking for a 12V fuse in the bathroom fuse block like Rich posted above.


Over the last 15 years I’ve bought a lot of different LED lights/bulbs. I’ve had good luck out of most of them…still use some 120V ones that are 15 years old (small round chips) but they put out half the amount of light.

I’ve had terrible luck out of ever strip I’ve bought… 12V or 120V with multiple chips stop working in a couple hundred hours or less. Bought an expensive 120V rope light that had multiple 1’ sections stop working in 6 months. 

The amps savings converting fluorescent to led is approx 1/2 while replacing halogen is 1/10th the amps. I would only us voltage regulated LED panels when converting.


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
moxy1962

I would be interested in the black u shaped trim that holds the wood panels to the fridge particularly around the right side freezer door, happy to pay for your time, the part and shipping, they are NLA.


Slide operation
Steven

I have  2004 Monaco Windsor 40SDT. Sometimes the slide will not activate the retract position. Is there a safety mechanism that will not active the switch unless air system fully charged?

Appreciate any help.

Steve.


Slide operation
jacwjames

On mine the basement doors all swing up.  Each door under a slide has an inhibitor switch that detects whether it is fully closed.  Sometimes mine does the same thing and I have to go outside and open the slam the door shut.

I washed my fuel tank bay ~3 months ago before installing a FASS pump, I had a problem with the inhibitor switch, had to disconnect the wires and bypass.  I've since ordered a spare inhibitor switch to keep.   http://www.nwrvsupply.com/product/9269-BX.html


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
moxy1962

I replace my Leece Neville with a newer leece neville self exciting solid state 210 Amp alternator, the alternator does require a voltage signals from the batteries that tells it what the charge rate should be, it has the ac Terminal for alt light and tach, to solve the issue of the 12 volt signal that was not present on the positive cable running from alternator to battery isolator, I used the original ignition circuit lead that excited the old style alternator, in my coach that piggy backed of the fuel boost pump, now if I just put That wire to the battery terminal it would work but would supply power to the entire ignition circuit constantly as long as the alternator was turning, so I just put a diode in line that stops any voltage from the alternator from energizing the circuit, simple 5 dollar fix that allows virtually any alternator to be used that will fit, been 4 months,1000s of kilometres and this fix requires a little solder a piece of shrink tube and a $5 diode. No rewiring no different isolators or electronics. The original system works great and has for 20 years, I didn’t see the need To mess with it.


Slide operation
Steven

Thanks for the info. I will check all bay doors from now on. My owners manual says the air system should be fully charged. If not chargd will that cause slide to not operate?

 

Steve.


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
dl_racing427
20 hours ago, vanwill52 said:

Yes, the old alternator will work.  You still have to connect the voltage sensing wire from the alternator to the positive post of one of the battery banks.  I don't think it would matter which battery bank you connected to, since both with be receiving a charging voltage.  For that matter, since the voltage-sensing feature was only to counter the 0.7 VDC drop across the SSI, I suppose you could simply connect it to the alternator's output post.  I've never done that, so I can't say from experience that it would work...just don't see any reason why not.

As for which wires to hook where, the directions that come with the ML-ACR are simple and clear.  Sorry, I'm not good at annotating pictures.  Basically, you take the center cable from your SSI (the alternator output) and combine it with the cable (from the SSI) going to your chassis batteries on ONE of the large posts of ML-ACR, and connect the other cable from the SSI (from house batteries) to the OTHER large post of the ML-ACR.  It's easy and the instructions are clear.  You can probably view the instructions on the Blue Sea site.

I would connect the sense wire to the alternator output, so the alternator would then sense whatever voltage that was coming from whatever batteries it was connected to at the moment.  The ML-ACR should have negligible voltage drop, which was the purpose of having the separate chassis battery sense with the SSI.


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
scottjo02

If you do end up selling the old Norcold for parts, I would be interested in purching the electronic control board.

Scott

 


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
jacwjames

So after watching the various posts on the Bluesea ML-ACR installs, and with talking to Van regarding the install I went ahead and bit the bullet and installed on in May of this year.  I was starting to question my BIRD and Isolation relay as it seemed like my batteries were not being charged correctly so decided to go ahead with the install itself, which was easy but I did need another wire from the rear electrical bay to the front dash, which was a challenge in itself.  The system works as designed, when there is a charging source on either side the ML-ACR closes and both battery banks charge. 

Since the install I have seen several posts on the IRV2 forum regarding the system and to be cautious if your house batteries are depleted as it will put a burden on the alternator which in the long term may  be a problem.  I have a Silverleaf VMSpc to monitor my engine, transmission and charge voltage.   So on my recent trip I noticed that I was getting some fluctuations in the alternator charge voltage, sometimes bouncing down to 13.6 volts.  I don't remember seeing this before, maybe I'm now paranoid.   I also have a voltage monitor for my house battery on the front dash.  So I would use the switch for the ML-ARC and disconnect the batteries.  After an hour or two I'd flip it back on.  This seemed to cure the voltage fluctations.

I've also read that it may not be a good idea to run the generator with the banks connected.  I seldom run the generator when driving if I am by myself but if my wife riding along with the dogs we usually crank it up when it starts getting warm.  But this problem again is solved by just flipping the switch.  There is an option to isolate the two systems if the generator is running by connecting one wire to the generator sense wire.  I may end up doing this since my wife won't be nearly as observant of what is going on. 

 

All in all I think installing the Bluesea ML-ARC it is a simple solution simplifying the charging system of your coach.


camera cable
Ivan K

I don't know if there still are any s-video cameras but if not and if you display does not actually require this kind of connection, you'll have many options. Mine used a VGA converter under the dash that I removed, selected a shielded lead inside the existing camera cable to use for common VGA camera and used that for video.


Did I create an issue in the 12 Florescent volt system?
Moonwink

Going back to the original problem of no power, Rich, do you have power at the switch?  No sense in doing anything else until you can measure power at the switch.  If there is no power at the switch, the most likely problem is a blown fuse.  You can make sure the switch isn't the problem by measuring the feed to the switch. 

I've found the most pleasing light I get is in the 3500-4000 Kelvin range.
http://www.recessedlightinglayout.com/2017/04/led-color-temperature-chart-scale.html

color+temperature+chart+scale.jpg


Convert Batwing antenna to hold a wifi/ cellular antenna.
woodylmiller

Thanks.  It would sure help if the all the internet/tech stuff was written in English.  No complaints on the Cradlepoint IBR600, when there is a cell signal.  We have an AT%T sim in it now, might add a T-Mobile in the second slot since they seem to be really gaining ground on the coverage and data plans.  We also have a Verizon unlimited but that gets throttled down at some point.  The AT&T Spark would be great if there were a work around the auto shut after 20 to 30 minutes without moving.  Adding to all the confusion now is the IoT, internet of things???, who came up with that?  I'm too old to keep up with all the new lingo. 

Woody Miller


Slide operation
Nevada Rob
2 hours ago, jacwjames said:

I washed my fuel tank bay ~3 months ago before installing a FASS pump, I had a problem with the inhibitor switch, had to disconnect the wires and bypass.  I've since ordered a spare inhibitor switch to keep.

Why did you put in the FASS pump? Supplemental to the factory system or replacement to factory system?


Electrical Issue
waterskier_1

There has been a lot of info and speculation presented above, that I'm not going individually address.  Here are some observations.

First, if you say you have no 110 input on the Right Breaker (Main L2), then you should also not have the Rear A/C, Water Heater/AquaHot, and Washer/Dryer working.  Can you confirm this?

Next, if you do have 110 on the Left Breaker (Main L1), then you should have the refrigerator, Front A/C, and Block Heater working.  Can you confirm this.  

If the above is true, then you are not getting both sides of the 220 to the main breaker panel.  Troubleshoot this first, as all the other problems may resolve after this is sorted.  It could be anywhere from the pedestal, the connector, the wire, the transfer switch, or the wiring from the transfer switch.  Tom has given good advice on the transfer switch.  Since I believe your generator is not connecting either, I think I'd start with a new transfer switch.

Now for clarification, not necessarily troubleshooting (I believe the above with sort the problem), going off a 2002 Windsor Wiring Diagram (I don't have one for 2003, but think they are the same), you have what is called a "dual input, dual output" configuration for you inverter.  I can't talk to the specific inverter used, because the Manufacturer/Model number isn't specified.  But unless the inverter has been changed out by someone, you have both L1 & L2 going into the inverter, and also an L1 and L2 coming out of the inverter.  Before I explain the reasoning for Dual In/Dual Out, let me suggest that the L1 and L2 wires are crossed between the inverter and the Sub Panel.  This makes no functional problem, but confuses when troubleshooting.  Mentally remember they are crossed and that will help.  

Ok, the reason to use a Dual In/Dual Out configuration (many, maybe most) have this as an option, along with the far more familiar Single In/Dual Out configuration.  By using both sides of the 220, the loads that run through the inverter may be better balanced.  We typically see, especially on lower end units without a separate Sub Panel, that one output connects only to the microwave and the other output connect to all the outlets.  With a Single Input, that means at ALL circuits connected through the inverter (remember, even when on shore power all circuits that are designated to run off the inverter, must run through the inverter), are fed on one side of the 220 line.  With Dual Input, that load, when not actually inverting, can be balanced between L1 and L2.  When inverting, all are on the same inverter output (that is the inverter is 110 only, so L1 and L2 are connected together when the inverter is in operation, but that doesn't effect the input load balance, because there is no input when the inverter is running.

Ok, on to other things.  First, you should never connect a GFI outlet on a GFI breaker or other GFI outlet.   There should only be one GFI protection device per circuit.  Adding additional GFI devices will cause problems - remove any that you may have added in error.  

The wiring diagram doesn't clearly identify which circuit breaker in the sub panel are on which line (L1 or L2).  But if you don't have both L1 and L2 (as you stated you didn't above) then only the circuits that are connected to the line that you do have would be operational.  That's why you see some circuit breakers turning off some things, and others not.   As mentioned above, I think this will resolve once you get full 220 into the main panel.

As a test of the above theory (as if you don't have anything else to do) you could try disconnecting shore (and generator - but I think you said that won't connect anyway) and turning the inverter on.  The inverter should power all the circuits in the sub panel.  If it doesn't, I'd still wait until you get 220 into the main panel before continuing to troubleshoot.

I'm attaching the 2002 Windsor Inverter Wiring Diagram upon which I am basing my analysis.

2002_Windsor_Inverter.pdf


camera cable
waterskier_1

I didn't find any direct replacement cameras, nor did I find any conversion "pig tails" to allow a newer camera to connect to the s-video cable.  I have not yet done my replacement, but I plan on cutting the connector off, and finding a shielded cable in the mix, and using it for the video from the replacement camera.  I'll have to do the same at the other end and eliminate the s-video to composite video converter too.  I'm not sure why they use s-video vs composite video, for the rear camera.  I'm not aware that s-video can travel longer distances without degrading.

The other thing you might consider is if you are planning on continuing to run the camera(s) through the Aladdin System, I'm not sure it can handle HD video.  I'm not saying it can't, but suspect maybe it can't.  I've never seen any spec's on the Aladdin system.  That said, there have been several who have used the BOYO cameras as replacement in their mirrors and are satisfied with the video.  The BOYO is slightly higher than SD resolution, so maybe Aladdin is only providing SD, but the camera itself is better so the overall image is consider by many to be an improvement.  But I'm not sure I'd spend a lot of extra money on a super HD camera if I was planning on routing the video through the Aladdin system.  If you plan on bypassing the Aladdin, and routing directly to an HD monitor, it should work fine. You can also get HD Monitors with switching capability (turn signal and backup) built in, and totally eliminate the Aladdin for video purposes.


camera cable
Ivan K

One more thing to consider, if your display does not have side-to-side reversing option, you need to get an actual 'rear view' camera so that your left-right is correct.


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
ok-rver

New to MHs. Converted 300AH house battery bank on cruising sailboat to 700AH, added diesel generator, inverter/charger and 450 watts solar doing all the design and work myself. BlueSea is one of the most trusted brands on boats. Many cruisers replace the weak factory alternators with brands from Balmar. Their alternators accept an external regulator that adjusts the field current to get three stage charging based on battery voltage and temp. Monitors both battery and alternator temperatures and can reduce charging current as needed. The 160 amp LN on many Cummins looks a lot like an alternator they had a few years ago.  Sterling Power USA has pretty much any battery bank combining system you need. DC to DC battery chargers that allow you to charge LI-FE from a FLA or AGM starting bank. Battery Chemistry Modules that work very similar. 

A battery does not care if is on a boat or MH. Our sailboat was not connected to shore power for months at a time so marine can be a little more demanding on a battery bank.  Many boats regularly only get to 90% charged. Compass Marine has an excellent series of how-to articles on making your own cables, battery tests, monitoring systems etc. at https://marinehowto.com. I would recommend anyone looking at upgrading their system to spend a little time going thru their articles.

I have called a couple of alternator shops in Tulsa to see if they could rewire my alternator to have an external field coil connection. I would like to have a 3 step charging profile. They have no idea of what I am trying to do. I know where the Big Boy is on my coach. Still reading thru posts to try and get a good idea of how it is controlled. 

Knowledge is good. 

 


Alternator replaced now out again
Hancoman

It was the right alternator we drove across country and back it worked fine

 Here is the rest of the story. I use a small diesel shop for my repairs, when they finished my coach they went on vacation texted me my coach was ready and where I could find my keys. Picked it up and a week later took our short trip to the coast and the alternator failed again after about 50 miles. When I returned home I had my bill in the mail with explanation of work. Sent alternator in for repair under warranty, manufacturer repaired but they think my house batteries are bad or there is short somewhere so they will not repair again, information I wish I had before my trip. I will replace my house batteries and have my alternator rebuilt. Question is how do I check to make sure there isn’t a short somewhere before I take it out again


How often do HWH control units fail?
obb_taurus

I'm having issues with my rearmost air bags not inflating properly, I had my air system checked out and everything is good.  About 10 years ago my control unit needed to be replaced because the tag axle was not going to travel mode.  At the time, the shop that figured this out never told me what exactly that means but I'm wondering if it meant the rear airbags aren't inflating.  The control unit was sent off to HWH for fixing.  

Now I'm beginning to think this may be what's happening again so I was wondering if these control units from HWH fail easily or frequently?  Unfortunately I don't have great access to authorized HWH repair centers where I live so getting it checked is not that easy and I'm not sure if my coach is really safe to drive.  

Thanks

Mike B

01 Dynasty c/w tag


Outside temperatures
Steven P
18 hours ago, saflyer said:

 

One question. I noticed today that the rear A/C has four registers. Two on one side blow OK, one on other side blows a little and the other doesn’t seem to have any air movement at all. I wonder what are the possibilities of fixing this problem and where to look?

Ed         
‘05 HR Ambassador 

Ed,

I pulled my interior covers (4 screws and whole plastic cover) and w the ACs running I found that my ceiling liners were being sucked into the ducts.  With it not running, they hang free and it's not noticeable.  I easily trimmed those parts and that greatly improved airflow in the affected registers.   It's well worth checking.  One duct was blocked about 80%!


House Batteries not charging while under way.
Dave16131

Follow up,

After calling R&R Electronics and trouble shooting with Chris over the phone, we found the BIRD 8 pin connector position 8 white wire was not getting a ground signal. Chris told me to cut the wire and ground it to the chassis on the plug side and abandon the other side, which did work. So, so far it's fixed. I'm really glad I called those guys at R&R instead of just throwing money at it. Turned out to cost nothing, I'm happy. Thanks all for this forum!


How often do HWH control units fail?
vito.a

The HWH control panel usually fails because water/moisture gets on it from the drivers window above.  

The rear air bags not filling is probably not the control panel.  If it was the control panel it would not fill more than just the two rear bags.  Its more than likely one of the many air solenoids or air lines in the system.  

It's very difficult to find a place that understands and is willing to work on the air ride system because it's so time consuming. 

I would start by driving the coach up on some stacked 2" x 12" boards so you can get under it safely and look for air leaks.  Many times it's a simple fix.  You can remove the air lines and cut 1/4" off and reinsert it to stop a lot of the leaks.  The air solenoids can be rebuilt with new o-rings fairly easily.     


Power cord reel
vanwill52

I always envied the guys with power reels for their 50A cords.  But I was short of room in the bays and also did not want a commutator-type reel.  I had room in front of my Onan and decided to put a reel there.  I bought a hand-cranked cord reel from Mor-Ryde, machined a new shaft, eliminated the hand wheel and converted it to be powered by a tarp motor for a dump truck.  I added a "clutch" mechanism to the drive, so I could "feather" the cord onto the reel and stop it at any time without turning the motor off.  I welded on two extensions of 2 x 3 x 1/8 rectangular tube to the front of the genny slide to mount it on.  The tarp motor is powered through a resettable circuit breaker and contactor, and turned it on with a toggle switch on the entrance side of the reel. I bored out a PVC pipe cap to fit over the Twist-Lock end of the 50A cord to keep rain and road debris out of the connections while traveling.

I had one of the coaches whose generator had about 3" vertical clearance when retracted, so I built an aluminum angle "fence" around the top of the Onan for extra storage.

It has been one of the greatest improvements I've made to the coach!

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Slide operation
Ivylog

The Fass lift pump conversion comes from the PU truck’s with a VP44 injection pump which requires a external continuous operating lift pump to supply the fuel. On the Cummins ISC, ISL & ISX the lift pump only runs for 30 seconds on startup. Once the engine starts, the internal gear pump supplies the necessary fuel for the injection pump unlike the PU truck engines.

IMHO a Fass lift pump on a MH is a transfer of money to Fass and is unnecessary. Yes, the older Cummins lift pump tended to leak with the new fuel and finding a replacement $7 gasket has gotten harder. Fass does claim the pump & filters will get the air out of the fuel… here again a problem I didn’t know we had.


How often do HWH control units fail?
obb_taurus

The funny thing is, if I use the control panel to add air to the back, they inflate with no problem, it is just when I dump the air and then let the system air up again, the back air bags don't inflate.

I don't think there is an air leak, as I mentioned, the air system was checked and no problems were found unless there is something that is related to HWH system that a shop which doesn't know the system might miss, also, I can leave my coach for weeks on end and it stays pretty well at the same level the whole time.

Honestly, not sure what to make of this problem.

BTW:  Didn't notice this before but I'm not talking about the control panel on the dash under the driver side window, I'm talking about the control unit or brain of the system.


Aqua hot problems
RS lakeshore

My aqua hot will not work. It doesn't light up on My panel in the kitchen when I push the aqua hot diesel switch. I am able to turn on the aqua hot 110v switch an get hot water but every few days it shuts itselve off.iam able to turn it back on. I have been waiting for a mobile rv mechanic for 3 weeks. I am new to this coach and I follow this forum daily and have learned a lot but the aqua hot is all new to me. All pointers would be helpful. Thanks. RS Makes more 2006 signature 41


How often do HWH control units fail?
Nevada Rob

When you say no inflating properly, what does that mean exactly? They don't inflate at all? Do they inflate some? Do you have a pressure gauge in the engine compartment?


Power cord reel
Nevada Rob

Van that is cool as heck. Nice job on the fabrication work. How long is the power cord? After the cord is deployed can you completely close the generator slide?


Slide operation
jacwjames

I spend quite a bit of time reading the Monacoers & IRV2 forums, the number of people that are having problems with the CAP's injection pump seems to be increasing along with the number of reports of the original fuel transfer pump leaking and/or failing.  This is not a new problem but it seems to be increasing with the age of the motorhomes.

So I've made it a point to check the lift pump looking for any tell tale signs of a leak.  I even bought a spare gasket just in case.  Well last year I took my coach out for a ~75 mile run to give it a work out and fill it up with fuel, prior to this I had given it a service including grease lube of the chassis.  Brought it back home parked in on fresh clean concrete where it had been parked before and decided to clean the jack stems, they seem to be slow coming up.  Crawled under the coach and low and behold I had a fuel leak.  Went ahead and tightened the 3 bolts and the leak stopped.  This was Nov 2020. 

Over the next months there were more and more reports of CAPS failures.  This can cost ~$5-7K, less if you can do it yourself but that would be a job I'd be hesitant to tackle.  There were a number of Monaco owners who installed either a FASS or Airdog pump.  I started to look at the option and decided it seemed like a good idea to take the risk out of the original fuel transfer pump. 

Also know that Cummins actually had a TSB (see attached) on the transfer pump dating back to Nov 2006, originally they would inspect and replace the pump if it was leaking, then they started just replacing the gasket, then they just let the owner/operators fend for themselves. 

So all that being said, IMHO I think the cost of the FASS install to provide a more positive fuel supply to the injector pump has value and therefore decided to install the FASS system earlier this year.   The benefits far outweigh the costs. 

 

Cummins ISL Lift Pumps service bulletin.pdf


Aqua hot problems
Nevada Rob

Do you have a panel in the bay where the Aquahot is located. Mine has a panel there with lights that will show system ok with green lights, red lights for problems. Have you replaced the fuel filter and burner tip for the AquaHot?


Slide operation
Nevada Rob

Forgive my ignorance but does this FASS pump mount near the fuel tank? Does it replace a factory fuel pump on the engine or supplement the fuel deliver from the tank? Any pictures you can share?


Slide operation
jacwjames

There are a number of options on how to install. 

A lot of times there is not room/access to the fuel tank to mount there so people choose to mount near the engine. 

In my case I had enough room to mount near the fuel tank.  I bypassed the original lift pump and used the fuel line that the original transfer pump used as the supply line from the FASS.  I then had to add a return line from the FASS pump to tank.  I also added a fuel pressure gauge at the secondary filter to monitor fuel pressure to the CAPS pump.  I've put ~5K miles on the coach and all seems fine


How often do HWH control units fail?
obb_taurus

They pretty well stay flat.  If the air system is empty and is aired up, they remain the same as when the air was let out.  If I go to the control panel and add air to the rear, they will inflate so, yes, they do inflate but not on it's own. 

No, there isn't a pressure gauge in the engine compartment.


Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY

P

4 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

There has been a lot of info and speculation presented above, that I'm not going individually address.  Here are some observations.

First, if you say you have no 110 input on the Right Breaker (Main L2), then you should also not have the Rear A/C, Water Heater/AquaHot, and Washer/Dryer working.  Can you confirm this?

Next, if you do have 110 on the Left Breaker (Main L1), then you should have the refrigerator, Front A/C, and Block Heater working.  Can you confirm this.  

If the above is true, then you are not getting both sides of the 220 to the main breaker panel.  Troubleshoot this first, as all the other problems may resolve after this is sorted.  It could be anywhere from the pedestal, the connector, the wire, the transfer switch, or the wiring from the transfer switch.  Tom has given good advice on the transfer switch.  Since I believe your generator is not connecting either, I think I'd start with a new transfer switch.

Now for clarification, not necessarily troubleshooting (I believe the above with sort the problem), going off a 2002 Windsor Wiring Diagram (I don't have one for 2003, but think they are the same), you have what is called a "dual input, dual output" configuration for you inverter.  I can't talk to the specific inverter used, because the Manufacturer/Model number isn't specified.  But unless the inverter has been changed out by someone, you have both L1 & L2 going into the inverter, and also an L1 and L2 coming out of the inverter.  Before I explain the reasoning for Dual In/Dual Out, let me suggest that the L1 and L2 wires are crossed between the inverter and the Sub Panel.  This makes no functional problem, but confuses when troubleshooting.  Mentally remember they are crossed and that will help.  

Ok, the reason to use a Dual In/Dual Out configuration (many, maybe most) have this as an option, along with the far more familiar Single In/Dual Out configuration.  By using both sides of the 220, the loads that run through the inverter may be better balanced.  We typically see, especially on lower end units without a separate Sub Panel, that one output connects only to the microwave and the other output connect to all the outlets.  With a Single Input, that means at ALL circuits connected through the inverter (remember, even when on shore power all circuits that are designated to run off the inverter, must run through the inverter), are fed on one side of the 220 line.  With Dual Input, that load, when not actually inverting, can be balanced between L1 and L2.  When inverting, all are on the same inverter output (that is the inverter is 110 only, so L1 and L2 are connected together when the inverter is in operation, but that doesn't effect the input load balance, because there is no input when the inverter is running.

Ok, on to other things.  First, you should never connect a GFI outlet on a GFI breaker or other GFI outlet.   There should only be one GFI protection device per circuit.  Adding additional GFI devices will cause problems - remove any that you may have added in error.  

The wiring diagram doesn't clearly identify which circuit breaker in the sub panel are on which line (L1 or L2).  But if you don't have both L1 and L2 (as you stated you didn't above) then only the circuits that are connected to the line that you do have would be operational.  That's why you see some circuit breakers turning off some things, and others not.   As mentioned above, I think this will resolve once you get full 220 into the main panel.

As a test of the above theory (as if you don't have anything else to do) you could try disconnecting shore (and generator - but I think you said that won't connect anyway) and turning the inverter on.  The inverter should power all the circuits in the sub panel.  If it doesn't, I'd still wait until you get 220 into the main panel before continuing to troubleshoot.

I'm attaching the 2002 Windsor Inverter Wiring Diagram upon which I am basing my analysis.

2002_Windsor_Inverter.pdf 132.55 kB · 0 downloads

I can confirm rear Air water heater, tv and dvd above front and a/c plugs on curb slide are inop.

I also confirm Front roof air, fridge and roadside plugs are working on that slide also working. 

I am in the middle right meow of yanking the IOTA ATS. Although I found no scorching like I've seen, I did find the plastic above the Generator relay to have been heated and bowed upward. So I think it safe to presume that the IOTA is at least bad on the generator side.

Once I get the new ATS installed, I will advise. Should still be a couple hours. Hopefully less. It's too hot to be doing this madness.


Aqua hot problems
John Haggard

Be specific that you want a dedicated 

Aqua Hot certified service. 

Most rv tecs know nothing about your specific RV Aqua Hot. 


How often do HWH control units fail?
Nevada Rob

Do you have air leveling or hyd leveling? How do you adjust the air in the tag axle to balance the gross weight load?


How often do HWH control units fail?
Ivan K

I find it strange that you would not have a Mac valve and a gauge to regulate tag bags and down pressure. It should be in an accessible place for adjustment. Mine is on driver side rear of the motor.


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
BobSchmeck
On 8/5/2021 at 3:39 PM, cbr046 said:

Nice job on the install 👍

Sadly I'm still struggling with the old Norcold.  I re-insulated the boiling tube, which had chunks missing (thanks to the ultra thin foil covering), taped up any seams that had gaps (LH lower side tape had separated) and added an extra layer of EPDM to the door seals.  The center flap in the doors still isn't sealing perfectly and I need to work on that.  I've been keeping track of temps and it appears to be minimal improvement (90 outside = 50 indicated in the fridge)  However, the last road trip the inside got to 70F (which was probably 65) with 90'sF outside and 65 mph so another road trip is in order to see if it will stand the test of speed. 

48F on the fridge thermometer is really 46F according to Govee thermometer and on the IR gun reads 37F, very deceptive.  Fridge fins read 27F and back of freezer reads -18F.  Fridge fins are forming a heavy layer of ice on the RH side.  Fridge definitely is more efficient on AC vs propane, but being I'm mostly boondocking it's what we have to work with. 

This is all my little 1200 can do.  Full blast, non-stop.  The fridge thermometer should read 40 before the thermostat shuts down the boiler and that hasn't happened since June (or earlier). 

If I go replacement I'll probably do the Amish unit.  I can't afford to rely on the generator. 

Good luck finding a new home for your 1200.

- bob

Bob

I went with the Amish unit because we mostly boondock. When I  changed it out I added 2 extra fans up near the vent with a switch that I can turn them on at my choice. They help a lot when its hot out side. I also ended up using his fans for the inside in front of the fins. Have not had to use more than one so far. I  have 400w of solar. But the 4 6volt batteries I'm far from confented that they would keep a res fridge going. In real hot weather I still have to have it cranked the old NorCold all the way. You really have to consider all that you do. If you go campground to campground a res fridge might work. Boondocking if I had another 6 grand to get Battle Born Battery then it might be the way to go.  


How often do HWH control units fail?
Nevada Rob

Same here. Driver side next to the hydraulic filter. runs around 45-50 pounds.


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
Corkman

Thank you for the information. What is the Amish solution? I’m not familiar with that.


How often do HWH control units fail?
obb_taurus

I have air leveling

Sorry, yes there is a gauge, I totally forgot about it, I will have to check that out.

Thanks for reminding me.


Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY

Well, the replacement ATS is allowing the generator to work and everything that was dead, is back. Including the rear Air Conditioner and microwave.

The A/C display is now lighted and doing it's thing however,  the RC7 remote control is still dark so I still have a problem with something.

Now, I'm going to shut off the Air Conditioners and then shut down the Generator. Hopefully everything will come back on using shore power. We shall see.


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
BobSchmeck

https://rvcoolingunit.com/Norcold-Cooling-Units-Amish-Built-Brand-new-C4437.aspx

Is it the perfect unit? No. We have had it 5 years now. No major problems.  Most times we run it on 5. But when it get over 100⁰ we have to kick on the extra fans. But when its a 100⁰ were looking for cooler temperatures any way. 

Were on a three month trip now entering week 2. Will find a camp ground with full hookups next week for a day to refill our tanks & do our laundry. Then we will be back out the free stuff.  

 


Slow moving slide
Darren A.

Update on my slide situation.  After a long wait to get the Coach serviced and waiting for the part David you were 100% correct Hydraulic Reservoir located underneath entry step.  The Solenoid for the driver side front slide was replaced and everything back working.  
Thank you all for responding to my question on June 9th.
The part number# RAP42632 I intend on buying a few to keep on hand and if necessary will replace them myself in the future.


Fuel injector Calibration error
jimamcg

 

I have a Silverleaf VMspc. I get an "Error Code Thrown" as soon as I turn the ignition on (without starting).  The code is "ENG SID 1329 Injector Cylinder #13 Calibratn Error".   The engine starts and seems to run normally.  The error code seems to come in every time I hit the clear button on the VMspc screen.  There is no black smoke or any other symptoms. 

The coach has been sitting for about 8 months.   We are getting ready for a long trip.  Anyone with similar experience?  Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
Jim M 
2007 Cayman XL 
 

Electrical Issue
jacwjames

My inverter is located very close to the transfer switch.  You might want to make sure that you didn't hit the off switch on the inverter.

I did that about 11-12 years ago and finally found the problem, simply hit the on switch and it solved my problem.

 


Splendid vented washer disaster
IlliniCathy

A follow up.  Washer is up and running.  I am embarrassed to admit the filter was completely clogged.  I have been using detergent pods.  Has anyone else had a problem with them gunking up the filter?


Torque Values for Wheels
tmw188

What are the torque values on our Alum wheels, how many of these big tire shops really use them? I would think the procedure on removing them can be important too. Most just use them large impact guns and would think your crazy if you ask them to be torqued to spec I would think. 


Micro-air Thermostat
Grampy OG
On 8/1/2021 at 7:28 AM, Dr4Film said:

The old style Penguin is no longer sold unless someone has really OLD stock left in inventory. However there is a converter board that can be purchased for the new AC so it will run with the old CCC thermostat.

Thank you for the clarification Doc!


Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY
39 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

My inverter is located very close to the transfer switch.  You might want to make sure that you didn't hit the off switch on the inverter.

I did that about 11-12 years ago and finally found the problem, simply hit the on switch and it solved my problem.

 

Nope. That wasn't it. It was either one, the other, or both of the following. Pedestal breaker, and/or POS IOTA 50R.

After I got everything done and put back together, I fired up the generator and everything worked, except the RC7. It's still dead. I then tried shore power and had nothing. Needless to say I got a little despondent.

But never fear, I sucked it up and went to start tracing back from the pedestal when the park owner came walking by and wondered what I was doing.

I told him and he checked the pedestal and found a breaker that wasn't resetting. Got that done and BAMMO, I got shore power everywhere including all the systems that were dead. (Except the RC7).

So, it was all the ATS, or a possible combination. In any event, I now have Generator power too so it was a win.

I got rid of that Arson Special IOTA.

Thanks everyone for the ideas and guidance. I don't think I would have accomplished this without y'all helping out.

Until the next post, keep the sunny side up and the greasy side Down.

Peace

 

 

IMG_20210807_160841959.jpg

IMG_20210807_160908149.jpg

IMG_20210807_161823210.jpg


camera cable
ekgflashnet

I took a look, and there are four wires coming out of the camera.  I would think 2 are for power (one +, one -).  But, what would the other two wires be?  One should be the shielded video signal itself, but not sure what the other one is.  I did find this panasonic adaptor from s-video to RCA connector.  https://www.tadibrothers.com/products/panasonic-backup-camera-adaptor

This may be useful.  As Ivan mentioned, I would need a modern rear-view camera (probably need a SD resolution).  Eliminate the converter box where the camera currently plugs into and use just the standard RCA connectors using the existing video signal wire.

thanks for the inputs,

steveg 2005 DDIV


Aqua hot problems
Duanebalogh

We just had our aqua hot service which is a good idea to do. When we turn ours on inside the coach in the kitchen our light won't go on either but we went out side and it is working so we talked to our rv guy who serviced or aqua hot and he said it's the panel so when we have a down time we'll have him replace it but our aqua hot does work. Just make sure you hear it outside turn off even tho the lights not on


Aqua hot problems
Ivylog

Did you find the panel Rob referenced? Use a straightened paper clip to push the reset button on this board.


How often do HWH control units fail?
obb_taurus

Had a look and the pressure was set to about 33 so I increased it to 45 but it still didn't seem to have an impact.  The one difference was that the air bags weren't squashed like before, they lifted but they looked malformed and I don't think there was air in them.  I took some pictures which I'll post.

Also, I only have slides on one side and noticed that the clearance of the rear tires on one side is not as much as on the other, will attach pictures of that too.

driver side.JPEG

passenger side.JPEG

clearance driver.JPEG

clearance passanger.JPEG


How often do HWH control units fail?
Ray Davis

Are you talking about the back will not come up for travel mode?    

Or will not level automatically,  only manually?

 


How often do HWH control units fail?
obb_taurus

If the reason the bags look the way they do means it's not come up for travel mode, then yes that's what I'm talking about.  Leveling seems to be fine.


Torque Values for Wheels
Ivan K

Your manual should tell you, I torque ours to 500 ft pounds. Per my manual, Alcoa wheels.


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
Ivylog

Like Bob *^^ we do a lot of dry camping in the summer and I bought into a residential isn’t suited for off the grid camping. I spent way too much money on my NoCold, even a Amish cooling unit which helped but not in hot weather with extra fans.

Finally figure out a modern refrigerator draws 1 amp and runs less than 50% of the time…costs 16-18 cents/day to run. Thought I’d found a 21 cuft Whirlpool that would fit perfectly in the 1200 hole …ended up being 1/2” to tall. Without a doubt, the BEST MOD EVER and 2 batteries will run it 30+ hours.

Before going residential I had to run the generator 2 hours/day to keep my 600AH of batteries up. By adding 2 more batteries and a $160, 100amp charger my generator time is less than 1.5 hours with the residential when boondocking. I powered it off the block heater outlet beside the engine.


Torque Values for Wheels
trailmug

My understanding is 450-500 ft/lbs.. gets you into 3/4" wrench territory, although everyone at truck tire shops seems to use 1" guns that are at least double that. 


Electrical Issue
Dr4Film

Go to the Inverter and unplug the data cable for the RC7-GS. Wait a few minutes then plug it back in. You might also spray some contact cleaner in the jack and on the RJ-11 plug.


Power cord reel
Ray Davis

Van,   I don't care what they say,   you're a pretty fart smeller,    err   I mean smart feller.    ROFLMAO    😁

Yep,  you did good,  keep it coming,  we like it


Electrical Issue
Chuck B

FWIW, there is a huge difference between the wiring of the 2002 and 2003 Windsor.  Added to that there were 2 different Windsor's with two different chassis manufactured by Monaco in 2003.   Date of manufacture will determine that.  In August of any given year, Monaco would bring out the next years model.  Therefore it's easy to get confused when trying to determine what the solution to any issue anyone has.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor manufactured in January 2004.  


Fuel injector Calibration error
Frank McElroy

What engine make and model is in your coach?

Have you ever had an injector replaced and if so has this error shown up after the injector replacement?

On certain engines, when an injector is replaced, the new injector code must to be entered into the engine ECM.  This tells the ECM the injector calibration parameters.


Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY
18 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Go to the Inverter and unplug the data cable for the RC7-GS. Wait a few minutes then plug it back in. You might also spray some contact cleaner in the jack and on the RJ-11 plug.

I'll take care of that tomorrow. I'm feeling beat up from the feet up. It wouldn't surprise me if that works. Monaco put the inverter and the ATS is the same bay with the Gray and Black tanks. That just seems dumb. There is some blue corrosion in one of the unused jacks. I'll get in there and see if I can clean them out.

16 minutes ago, Chuck B said:

FWIW, there is a huge difference between the wiring of the 2002 and 2003 Windsor.  Added to that there were 2 different Windsor's with two different chassis manufactured by Monaco in 2003.   Date of manufacture will determine that.  In August of any given year, Monaco would bring out the next years model.  Therefore it's easy to get confused when trying to determine what the solution to any issue anyone has.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor manufactured in January 2004.  

Well, that figures. I always get something difficult.


Torque Values for Wheels
jacwjames

When I had new tires installed ~+2 months ago they did use an impact to install the wheels but then followed up and checked each one, trust me I watched.  I asked what they torqued them to and the tech responded "450 ft lbs" >>> good enough for me!!


Torque Values for Wheels
Paul Busch

My 05 sig is 500 lbs. I bought my own torque wrench and do it myself. 
 

paulb


Torque Values for Wheels
hilrunr

Had all six tires replaced last month at the most reputable tire store in my area. Lug nuts torqued to 145 psi


How often do HWH control units fail?
Frank Bergamo

Mike,

to properly set the tag pressure regulator you need to weigh all 3 axles. To much pressure on tag will overload front axle. To little, will overload rear drivers. Your axle weights will be on the placard, left and back of driver seat. Hope this helps.

 


Torque Values for Wheels
Frank Bergamo

Mark,

I would be checking those lug nuts. 145 PSI  is not a torque value. Foot pounds is what you are after. Hope this helps.


camera cable
pwhittle

The fourth wire will be Audio from the rear camera.

Paul


Torque Values for Wheels
tmw188

I’ll look in my manual tomorrow when I get back to the coach. It sounds promising that most probably finish up with the proper torque. I plan on having the front wheels balanced if I don’t find balance wts on them. I’ll give them the values in my manual. 
Speaking of wts, do they use stick ons on the outside of these wheels?


Aqua hot problems
Ivan K
1 hour ago, Duanebalogh said:

We just had our aqua hot service which is a good idea to do. When we turn ours on inside the coach in the kitchen our light won't go on either but we went out side and it is working so we talked to our rv guy who serviced or aqua hot and he said it's the panel so when we have a down time we'll have him replace it but our aqua hot does work. Just make sure you hear it outside turn off even tho the lights not on

Have you considered that your switch light just might be burned out and all you might need is either a new switch or just replacing the tiny lamp? Happened to me on a long trip and I just plugged the lamp leads from back of the switch into a spare water pump indicator light until I replaced the lamp with led at home.


Aqua hot problems
Duanebalogh

Yes I think that's what our guy is going to do, thanks


Faucet and back up camera
Steven P

I finally replaced my kitchen faucet with a new one with the built in sprayer.  I used shark bites to add shut off valves to the sink since there were none previously.  I also replaced my old Weldex camera with a new one that was direct plug and play from rvcams.com   

20210807_123418.jpg

20210807_123401.jpg

20210728_194802.jpg

20210728_194809.jpg

20210728_194816.jpg

20210728_194615.jpg

20210728_191147.jpg


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
BobSchmeck
1 hour ago, Ivylog said:

Like Bob *^^ we do a lot of dry camping in the summer and I bought into a residential isn’t suited for off the grid camping. I spent way too much money on my NoCold, even a Amish cooling unit which helped but not in hot weather with extra fans.

Finally figure out a modern refrigerator draws 1 amp and runs less than 50% of the time…costs 16-18 cents/day to run. Thought I’d found a 21 cuft Whirlpool that would fit perfectly in the 1200 hole …ended up being 1/2” to tall. Without a doubt, the BEST MOD EVER and 2 batteries will run it 30+ hours.

Before going residential I had to run the generator 2 hours/day to keep my 600AH of batteries up. By adding 2 more batteries and a $160, 100amp charger my generator time is less than 1.5 hours with the residential when boondocking. I powered it off the block heater outlet beside the engine.

How many years have you been using it? 

Did it fit through the door or did you have to take a window out.  


How often do HWH control units fail?
Ivan K

45 psi should definitely seat the bags nicely. These just look stretched like if there was no air past the regulator.


Slide operation
Gary Cole

Thanks for the info Jim.

I've found that the solution to a lot of my problems, real and imaginary,  has been the rear radiator. One can't see anything. If you did have a problem you couldn't get to it without turning the RV upside down or inside out. So I just try to be happy and not worry.😳


Torque Values for Wheels
Paul Busch

I put Balance Masters on all my wheels. Why I did my own torquing. I love the balance masters.

paulb


How often do HWH control units fail?
Nevada Rob

I have read in more than one place that the best way to figure out the correct pressure on the tag axle for your coach is to weigh your rig fully loaded. Get each axle weight then divide the weight of each individual axle by the number of tires on said axle. Front axle by 2, drive axle by 4, tag by 2. Then try to do your best to balance the weight as even as possible with adding or subtracting pressure in the tag axle. Be sure to not overload the rated capacity of each axle. Since no two people carry the same amount of gear nor load the coach in the same way your rig will need to be set up for your circumstances. I pull a 26 ft. enclosed trailer with about 850 lbs. tongue weight. So my set up would be heavier in the rear than someone pulling a flat towed vehicle.

As far as getting your tab bags inflated, does it come up when you engage to tag lift for tight turns as an example? The air system is really not that complicated. Electric powered solenoids open and close a simple valves for each axle and side. I would recommend building some wood ramps from 2x8's or 2x10's stacked 4 high and long enough to get the drive and tag axle on the ramps. Put on some old clothes, gloves and safety glasses. Take a few bottle of soapy water (Dawn dish soap) a few rolls of heavy paper towels and start spraying and cleaning. You can trace your air lines, find air leaks and learn by putting your hands on these somewhat complicated machines.  


Power cord reel
Rick A

I impressed as hell and luv these innovations. 


camera cable
ekgflashnet

Hmmm.  I didn't realize I had any sound from the rear camera.  

steveg


Torque Values for Wheels
hilrunr

Thank you Frank Bergamo. Boy did I have my numbers for lug nut torgue all wrong. I stated 145 psi. What was I thinking? The real response should have been 450 foot pounds of torque on each lug nut.


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