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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/508-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Torque Values for Wheels
jacwjames
camera cable
Hypoxia
Torque Values for Wheels
tmw188
Torque Values for Wheels
jacwjames
Quick Serve
tmw188
Quick Serve
jacwjames
Quick Serve
tmw188
Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
Ivylog
Quick Serve
jacwjames
Quick Serve
klcdenver
Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
Corkman
Aqua hot problems
RS lakeshore
Torque Values for Wheels
tmw188
Solar Pre Wire on Roof
tmw188
Quick Serve
Gary M
Quick Serve
tmw188
Solar Pre Wire on Roof
JDCrow
camera cable
waterskier_1
Faucet and back up camera
JDCrow
Faucet and back up camera
Steven P
Solar Pre Wire on Roof
tmw188
Faucet and back up camera
JDCrow
Faucet and back up camera
Steven P
Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
Ivylog
Solar Pre Wire on Roof
Ivan K
camera cable
woodylmiller
Fuel injector Calibration error
jimamcg
Quick Serve
Gary M
Solar Pre Wire on Roof
Timaz996
Electrical Issue
Tom Cherry
Electrical Issue
Chuck B
Solar Pre Wire on Roof
jacwjames
Electrical Issue
Tom Cherry
Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
Corkman
Electrical Issue
Chuck B
Power cord reel
vanwill52
Solar Pre Wire on Roof
Ivylog
Power cord reel
jacwjames
Solar Pre Wire on Roof
JDCrow
Electrical Issue
waterskier_1
How often do HWH control units fail?
obb_taurus

New Posts

Torque Values for Wheels
jacwjames

First set of wheels I had balanced they used stick on weights for the fronts, the were flung off after a couple thousand miles.  Good news was that it didn't affect the drive at all and the tire aged out with +50K miles and showing very little wear.


camera cable
Hypoxia
6 hours ago, ekgflashnet said:

Hmmm.  I didn't realize I had any sound from the rear camera.  

steveg

You can listen to your engine while backing up, you sure won't hear your marshaller tell you when to stop!  The only use for audio that I can see is when using the camera at night to hear what is going on back there.  That is also the reason I would prefer a newer camera with better night vision as well as brighter rear docking lights, basically a security camera.  That would require the new camera to have audio and I don't know which ones do.


Torque Values for Wheels
tmw188
1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

First set of wheels I had balanced they used stick on weights for the fronts, the were flung off after a couple thousand miles.  Good news was that it didn't affect the drive at all and the tire aged out with +50K miles and showing very little wear.

Jim, which brings up another question. How big a deal is it to balance these front wheels? They could already been done from the PO, they have roughly 2800 miles on them. I just had new shocks put on the other day and thought I might get them balanced. There is a large reputable place near me that said it was $40 a wheel, which I thought was cheap? I hear there is a good place in Orlando that does alignment work on these Roadmasters? It drives nice and I may choose to leave it alone and not spend anymore money on these things. AH PO   wouldn’t wouldn’t let the broker give me his number. There were a few things I had him do and he probably wasn’t happy. 

7 hours ago, hilrunr said:

Thank you Frank Bergamo. Boy did I have my numbers for lug nut torgue all wrong. I stated 145 psi. What was I thinking? The real response should have been 450 foot pounds of torque on each lug nut.

Figured you would clarify that. 🤪


House Batteries not charging while under way.
willbo777

Respectfully, do you mean M&M?


No interior lights, No power to AC controllers, Overhead Fans not working, everything else ok
ok-rver

Wondering if you figured out you power issue?

Mike


Torque Values for Wheels
jacwjames

I bought my coach in Florida, it was a repo with no records.

The front tires were Goodyear with ~50K mile on them, I assumed they original ~6 years old.  They had a bad wear pattern, which from what I read of Goodyear was normal.   Drove it ~800 miles home, bad vibration in the front which I attributed to the wear pattern.  Took it to a Cummins shop for a complete service and inspection, passed with flying colors, shop manager said it was "cherry" and that I got a heck of a deal.

Next thing I did was have front tires installed.  But I wanted to make sure I didn't have an alignment problem so got the number of an alignment shop from Buddy Greggs's, they use the shop.   Took it for alignment after tires were installed, they actually had to bend the front axle to get it aligned.  They also spun balance the tires while they were on the rig, and installed the stick on weights the flung off. 

Like I said previously, I didn't even know the weighs were flung off until I found some sitting in the driveway after a trip. 

The tires aren't hard to balance for a shop that does it all the time, they'll jack the coach up remove the tire and put it on the balancing machine.  When they did mine the tech was not satisfied with one of the front, too far off balance so he actually broke the tire back down and rotated the tire a  little on the rim and then balanced it and added weight.  Just did a ~4700 mile trip and all was good with the tires. 


Quick Serve
tmw188

Is this band across the screen always there on Quick Serve? I can’t get it off. I know you can scroll up and down past it but it is annoying. 

C31B1AC3-0630-44D6-834C-3F0F094F0A49.png


Quick Serve
jacwjames
8 minutes ago, tmw188 said:

Is this band across the screen always there on Quick Serve? I can’t get it off. I know you can scroll up and down past it but it is annoying. 

C31B1AC3-0630-44D6-834C-3F0F094F0A49.png

Never seen this, might have to contact them to get it taken care of.


Quick Serve
tmw188

This is while using the phone app.


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
Ivylog

A 21 is not counter depth (will not come in the door) so took out the drivers window (fairly easy) and slid it in off a forklift. I took the 1200 out the window by myself (didn’t remove the seat and left the doors on) and the DW helped me get the 21 in… that was 10 years ago in our 04 Dynasty which is still in the family and no problems with it.

 The 08 Nav came with a 20 Jenn Air residential and a PSW inverter. Put a KW meter on it and it uses 1.2-1.4 KW/day, slightly more than the Whirlpool but within the margin of error.

I did add a DIY 1000W of solar ($1200 with a 80A mppt controller) but only use it in the summer so I figure it’s a 30+ years payback. Still have to run the generator some and added a 100A charger… parking in the shade so we do not need AC is more important than maximizing the solar.


No interior lights, No power to AC controllers, Overhead Fans not working, everything else ok
Patrick
56 minutes ago, ok-rver said:

Wondering if you figured out you power issue?

Mike

Everything is working but I’m not sure exactly what the problem was. 


Quick Serve
jacwjames

I don't do phone apps so don't know how to help.


Quick Serve
klcdenver

It is from the Cummins Mobile App. If you use a browser then sign into quick serve you will get a different picture.


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
Corkman

What kind of kilowatt meter did you get and where did you get it?


How often do HWH control units fail?
planodp

I tried to fix my and spend many day under the coach and inside the third bay. End up taking it to Foretravel Motorhome in July. This people really know the HWH system and have all the necessary parts to repair it. They also have 38 overnight parking space with 50 and 30 amps, with water and 8 full hook up for people getting they coach repair. While I was at Foretravel I had a great honor to meet Dave Pratt and his Foretravel IH45. What a awesome coach! I can only dream about owning one.

Let get back to the subject. Here is a link to all HWH Dealer and services Center for all state. https://www.hwhcorp.com/ml41023f2.html  

I would check each of the coil on the manifold. The coils should ohm to about 15.5 ohms (which can be easily checked by just unplugging the coil from the wire harness and inserting your multimeter test probes into the connector going to the coil. 

Attach is the troubleshooting from HWH. Good luck!

 

Level Sys Troubleshoting ml31043.pdf


Aqua hot problems
RS lakeshore

It hasn't stopped raining since I posted. Will try reset first and see what happens. Thanks.  Richard S 2006 Monaco Signature 41


Torque Values for Wheels
tmw188

I checked in my OM and the torque specs say 500ft lbs. wow that is a lot for sure. 


Solar Pre Wire on Roof
tmw188

When I sealed off my old refrigerator roof vent I notice what I assume is a terminal block for solar. I haven’t looked for it yet in my manual with all the wiring diagrams but was wondering what info some of you may have. I did check for voltage there and there wasn’t any. I haven’t looked any further into it, but  may be a empty dc fuse space dedicated to that terminal block in the bedroom. 

E9C85837-53C8-4061-962F-DD53963857D6.jpeg


Quick Serve
Gary M
2 hours ago, tmw188 said:

Is this band across the screen always there on Quick Serve? I can’t get it off. I know you can scroll up and down past it but it is annoying. 

C31B1AC3-0630-44D6-834C-3F0F094F0A49.png

Just tried on my phone. Never had this before. I always have to input ESN as it never sets.

C9C92185-DC7C-4BB1-89CC-CF0C3CBF1824.png


Quick Serve
tmw188

So it’s worked in the past for you Gary?


Solar Pre Wire on Roof
JDCrow

Maybe not “pre-wire” but I agree solar makes best sense.

The refer vent is a favorite spot for entry by many solar installers. 
 

Are you the original owner? 


camera cable
waterskier_1
16 hours ago, ekgflashnet said:

I took a look, and there are four wires coming out of the camera.  I would think 2 are for power (one +, one -).  But, what would the other two wires be?  One should be the shielded video signal itself, but not sure what the other one is.  I did find this panasonic adaptor from s-video to RCA connector.  https://www.tadibrothers.com/products/panasonic-backup-camera-adaptor

This may be useful.  As Ivan mentioned, I would need a modern rear-view camera (probably need a SD resolution).  Eliminate the converter box where the camera currently plugs into and use just the standard RCA connectors using the existing video signal wire.

thanks for the inputs,

steveg 2005 DDIV

That was out of stock and I got the impression not going to be restocked.  I was not convinced that the plug on the Panasonic camera was indeed an S-Video plug, even though it looked like it.  If you are not going to order one in the near future, I will, even though that replacement is lower on my "to-do" list.  

  -Rick


Did I create an issue in the 12 Florescent volt system?
Jobert

I have been using the Walmart replacement LED tubes for about 2 years now, right out of the box into the fixture with no problems at all.  I did not remove the ballast or anything else.  I have them in 5 fixtures, one is switched at the light and the others go through the multiplex individually.   A couple are daylight and a couple are warm white light. Hope this may help.  Happy Trails Bert


Faucet and back up camera
JDCrow

Awesome camera resolution. I need to contact them about a new rear camera, but using my Boss radio as the screen as All I had was the old Jensen B/W tv I yarded out 


Faucet and back up camera
Steven P
2 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

Awesome camera resolution. I need to contact them about a new rear camera, but using my Boss radio as the screen as All I had was the old Jensen B/W tv I yarded out 

Tim Lazaroe at rvcams.com knows his stuff and can help out w just about anything. 


Solar Pre Wire on Roof
tmw188
4 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

Maybe not “pre-wire” but I agree solar makes best sense.

The refer vent is a favorite spot for entry by many solar installers. 
 

Are you the original owner? 

Yes I’ve done solar on my last coach and use the old refrigerator vent as a chase. Asking about those wires though.


Faucet and back up camera
JDCrow
11 minutes ago, Steven P said:

Tim Lazaroe at rvcams.com knows his stuff and can help out w just about anything. 

Thanks for the referral, I’ll give them a call 

Sweet Costas BTW. I am a big fan of their glasses. Just broke my new pair turning my head and hitting the rear slide on my 5th wheel. Need to send them in. Shattered one lenses. I love the glass over plastic because they don’t scratch as easy, but obviously they can break LOL 


Faucet and back up camera
Steven P

Thanks.  I've had that pair at least 5 to 6 years and holding strong. 


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
Ivylog
2 hours ago, Corkman said:

What kind of kilowatt meter did you get and where did you get it?

Son-in-law had it… simple plug in meter and similar on EBay for $24.


Solar Pre Wire on Roof
Ivan K

Your terminal blocks look just like part of our original factory solar install. The cables went straight to a solar controller, no fuses. I still use that original setup but only for charging chassis. All new system for the house.


camera cable
woodylmiller

I just finished my update on side view and rear view cameras and monitor.  I had quite the time with the side view cameras.  First ones were not side view even though there were advertised that way.  Second time, different company, I got two passenger side cameras, ordered a left side which never showed up, they sent another right side (tadibrothers), then the company went silent for a month, no returned phone calls, no returned emails, nothing (their, tadibrothers, website says "24/7" customer support).  I disputed the charges for tadibrothers, $300.  I then went to Rear View Safety for the side cameras.  Nice metal encased cameras with led's for night vision.  

So after disputing with tadibrothers I heard from them.  If I send their cameras back they'll refund me, (the checks in the mail???) and we can resolve the dispute.  I went a month without hearing from that company even though they advertise 24/7 support, so buyer beware on them.  Just speaking for myself I will never go to tadibrothers for anything.  On the other hand Rear View Safety has been great, great service and a really nice product.

I installed the BOYO monitor, which is much better than the thing I took out.  And a BOYO rear view camera.  I will go with Rear View Safety if I replace the rear camera in the future.

So what did I learn from this?  Cheap is cheap.  First side view cameras were off Amazon, Lookeeloo, or something like that.  False advertised and cheap, so cheap they gave me my money back and told me to keep the cameras.  Anyone want a couple cheap cameras that aren't worth the postage to send them back?  Next up is tadibrothers, who promise 100% satisfaction and 24/7 support.  They send two right side cameras.  A call center that handles their sales answered the phone and I ordered a left side, a right side showed up.  Now I have 3 right side cameras and then I can't get a return email or phone call from customer support or their sales call center, for a month.  Then out of the blue a left side camera shows up.  Too late, already disputed the charges.  They will get all 4 of their cameras back this next week.  So now I go to Rear View Safety for the cameras.  Finally, fantastic company compared to the others.  Got the cameras, a left and a right, and they are so far above the quality of the other stuff.  They were the most expensive, but I was wasting time with the cheap crap.  My simple weekend retro fit for my cameras and monitor turned into a two month ordeal.  There was a slight mix up with Rear View Safety and they made that up by next day FedEx to get my cameras to me.  They couldn't get in touch with me about chrome vs black on the housing color, not their fault, but they paid the freight for the overnight FedEx just to make it right.  Couldn't ask for more.

Woody Miller

09 Dynasty Regal IV


Fuel injector Calibration error
jimamcg
16 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

What engine make and model is in your coach?

Have you ever had an injector replaced and if so has this error shown up after the injector replacement?

On certain engines, when an injector is replaced, the new injector code must to be entered into the engine ECM.  This tells the ECM the injector calibration parameters.

Hi Frank,

The engine is a Cummins ISB 325 HP.  There has been no work done on the engine. I read about the injector calibration parameters, but I don't think that applies here since none of the injectors have been replaced.   

I thought that maybe an injector had gone bad. Or possibly a corroded connector?  There does not seem to be anything obvious when looking at the top of the engine.

any idea of what symptoms to expect if the electronics in an injector has gone bad?

Jim M 2007 Cayman XL

 


Quick Serve
Gary M
1 hour ago, tmw188 said:

So it’s worked in the past for you Gary?

Yes. In fact I tried to respond on my phone and I couldn't connect, so I had to go to my laptop. The main problem I've had is my ESN wont stay and I have to enter it every time. This is the first time its happened. I am going to try without app.

So I just entered thru the internet thru my phone and my ESN was set already. So apparently there is something wrong with their app.


Solar Pre Wire on Roof
Timaz996
17 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Your terminal blocks look just like part of our original factory solar install. The cables went straight to a solar controller, no fuses. I still use that original setup but only for charging chassis. All new system for the house.

X2, but I use that block for my solar and it charges both sets of batteries (house & chassis) (700 watts) It does go to your solar controller. I replaced my stock controller with a Victron 100/50 controller.

 

Tim


Electrical Issue
Tom Cherry
15 hours ago, LJPierce_ELY said:

I'll take care of that tomorrow. I'm feeling beat up from the feet up. It wouldn't surprise me if that works. Monaco put the inverter and the ATS is the same bay with the Gray and Black tanks. That just seems dumb. There is some blue corrosion in one of the unused jacks. I'll get in there and see if I can clean them out.

Well, that figures. I always get something difficult.

Thanks to WaterSkier_1 and Dr. Frank and Richard and all those that chimed in.  As I SAID, I can offer some theories but, as Dr. Frank says, we are MORE familiar with our own rigs....  So HERE GOES.....

The Print was the KEY.  Thanks to WaterSkier_1.  The Windsor matches, sort of, the way that Monaco did the 2008 Dynasties.....except they have TWO, I think, Inverters. The Trace is different than what we Magnum folks expect to see and the Subpanel complicates it. BUT, the PRINT resolves in my mind, what happened.

The ISSUE WAS, I think, the IOTA. The first clue was the "30" amp light. When the Intellitec EMS did not read 230 VAC between Line 1 and Line 2, then it defaults to 30 amp service as it assumes, and rightly so, that there is NOT two sides of 50 Amp service....Line 1 (Black) and Line 2 (Red). The IOTA had dropped a LEG or a Line. Doesn't matter WHICH, it only had ONE 115 VAC service.....so that Intellitec EMS worked.

NOW....That explains a LOT. If you look at the print that WaterSkier_1 supplied, then the TWO Breakers on the Main Panel (the Intellitec) NOW make sense. The Trace requires TWO separate INPUT AC inputs....which is what the Magnums require on the Dynasties....  

Look at the print again. There are TWO OUTPUTS to the Subpanel. That Subpanel, I THINK, is internally divided....

The Inverter 1 input powers Breakers 1 - 4.  The Inverter 2 Input powers Breakers 5 - 7...as there is NO Breaker 8.  The original symptoms were that the FRONT GFCI and the Microwave were out. SO, when the IOTA took out Line 2....which then became Inverter 2, that killed that.

Replace the IOTA with a good ATS and BINGO....all is well. NOW, at least to me, it makes sense.  I also learned a LOT about the Subpanels used in the older MH and see why Monaco switched to Magnums.....for the lower end. They are either 2000 Watt or 2800 Watt (with a Res Refer).  Dr. Frank's TWO Magnums have TWO incoming circuits....and then TWO outgoing. What makes his really UNIQUE is that there the Inverted power is one one side of the subpanel and the NON Inverter (goes dead when on Inverting) circuit are NOT battery powered.....

OK....this, I think, sums it up....but if anyone has any other pertinent comments....or corrections....please chime in.

NOW>>>>We Moderators always try to teach or at least make sure that folks learn and what is posted is correct.

I AM SUMMING UP A "SUGGESTED" To DO list for LJPierce_ELY.....the original poster.

You have, I think, learned a lot.....BUT, if you are a full timer and 100% DEPENDENT on your MH as your HOME....then, you need to be aware and, when convenient, address the following....

1. Consider a Surge Suppressor (HW50C) as UPSTREAM Protection for your NEW ATS....as well as all the electronics and appliances on board. IF you have a bad pedestal or a circuit problem and LOSE the Neutral or have a FLOATING NEUTRAL (Google that), then you can do several THOU$AND$ of $$ Damage.  We have had folks that hit $15K....they lost all the electric appliances....  THE HW50C protects you from that plus it also takes care and protects you from high and low voltages and such. IT protects the MH's Life's Blood....the POWER. I can NOT overemphasize this.

2. Purchase a SPARE Square D GFCI breaker and have it on hand. These go bad....or at least Fred White and many others had issues with them. You need to get the MODEL number off the one in use....

3. Plan a Preventative Maintenance session and TIGHTEN ALL THE LUGS on the Main Panel and the Subpanel.  Vibration from driving is your enemy. Loose connection will heat up and potentially cause a fire. This is common sense....you will be FINE for the next 5 years or so....AFTER YOU DO THIS...

4. If you did NOT USE LOCTITE GREEN on the lugs on the new ATS, then you will need to open it up and RETIGHTEN in 3 - 6 months.....THIS TIME USE LOCTITE as they will vibrate loose.  This is NOT the fault of any ATS, it is just the fact that when you drive, the ATS's screws will come loose.  ONCE RETIGHTENED WITH LOCTITE GREEN ON THEM, they should be good for a LONG TIME....  I have over 10 years and 50K on mine....with the Loctite and STILL TIGHT....but I check them...

5. When you do the PM on the Brown EMS Panel, do the reset to make sure it is "healthy"

6. Order a spare Camco plug and the Dow potting (sealing) compound. At the age of your plug, you will, I predict, eventually need it. MANY folks carry such....

OK.....GOT ALL THAT....now, here is ONE THING that we all learned at the GATHERING....

On the 5 BUTTON AC/Heat Thermostat, it is BETTER to use the MODE button and turn OFF each zone, rather than the slide switch at the bottom. These switches go out....so the less you use the slide switch, the better...

GOOD LUCK....


“Furnace” mode doesn’t show up on 5 button Comfort Controllers
Patrick

Thanks to the help of the forum, I was able to resolve my problem with Furnace not showing up on the Living/Kitchen area Comfort Control. I got up on the roof this morning and opened up the control box on the front AC.  Sure enough, the DIP switch for Furnace was not activated. When the Dometic AC unit was replaced by the PO the installer did not set the DIP switch correctly. Turned on the DIP switch for Furnace and voila, Furnace now shows up and starts up on the Living/Kitchen Comfort Control. 
 

Many thanks for all who replied! I would not have been able to figure this out on my own. 
 

 

On 8/2/2021 at 10:47 AM, Timaz996 said:

This video will show you where the board in located on the A/C. Just make sure the furnace dip switch is on. It's only four screws to take the top off the A/C.

 

Thanks to your help I was able to resolve my problem with Furnace not showing up on the Living/Kitchen area Comfort Control. I got up on the roof this morning and opened up the control box on the front AC.  Sure enough, the DIP switch for Furnace was not activated. When the Dometic AC unit was replaced by the PO the installer did not set the DIP switch correctly. Turned on the DIP switch for Furnace and voila, Furnace now shows up and starts up on the Living/Kitchen Comfort Control. 
 

Many thanks for your help! I would not have been able to figure this out on my own. 


Electrical Issue
Chuck B

Sounds good except for one thing, the 2004, 5, and 6 did not come with two inverters.  Why would Monaco waste money putting two inverters in a coach?  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Solar Pre Wire on Roof
jacwjames

I believe my solar controller (never actually touched it though) behind the Inverter panel.  On my coach there is another display directly above that shows the charging amps and also has a switch to check the house and chassis voltage.   

In my passenger side rear electrical compartment there is a wire attached to the house and chassis battery lugs coming into that compartment, each has a fuse holder, I believe a 5 amp for the chassis and 25 amp for the house. 

The wiring diagram does have these shown, along with the solar controller although it doesn't show location.  Check page 26 on the wiring diagrams PDF.  The problem is that Monaco used 8 awg wire with will not allow for a decent amount of solar charging.   I think if I were to upgrade mine I'd keep the existing panels for the chassis and more for the house. 

I am currently adding a second inverter back in the bedroom independent of the current system so I will have a back up for power and charging.  I could easily tap into this line (2 awg) to charge the house batteries . 


“Furnace” mode doesn’t show up on 5 button Comfort Controllers
Timaz996

You are welcome from all of us here. We all are able to learn from the forum.


Electrical Issue
Tom Cherry
2 minutes ago, Chuck B said:

Sounds good except for one thing, the 2004, 5, and 6 did not come with two inverters.  Why would Monaco waste money putting two inverters in a coach?  Chuck B 2004 Windsor

Maybe I was unclear....what I meant was that the wiring diagram was "Similar" to how Monaco wired the Dynasties for use of a Sub Panel. I never understood that before and have helped folks, on site, work on theirs, but until Dr. Frank explained it yesterday, it was fuzzy.

What I tried to say is that the logic used in the WIndsor for the single, split output feed, was the same logic, to a certain extent, on the Dynasties....except they used a different Magnum from the run of the mill ones.  Did NOT mean to imply that the last Windsors had or were set up for dual inverters....

I learned a LOT and will get Dr. Frank to put the Windsor Print in the files....if it is not already there.


Replaced Norcold 1200LIRM
Corkman

Ok thanks 


Electrical Issue
Chuck B

There was no similarity about the 2004 Windsor.  It almost had the same features at the 2004 Dynasty, except for the tag axle.  Probably for the 2005.  Monaco brought out the Camelot to replace the Windsor to try to compete with other brands as far as vehicle cost was concerned. When Monaco did that, they cheapened the Windsor to push potential customers toward the Camelot.  Monaco finally realized that the they had too much of a product line to support.  Finances were getting tight heading Monaco toward bankruptcy.  We all know the rest of the story.  

My information came from the Monaco reps that attended the MI rallies.  I was there back then and experienced that. 

Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Power cord reel
vanwill52
21 hours ago, Nevada Rob said:

Van that is cool as heck. Nice job on the fabrication work. How long is the power cord? After the cord is deployed can you completely close the generator slide?

Rob, the cord is 30' and is SEOW cord.  After a talk with a cable manufacturer (who could only supply the cable with no ends attached), he told me to always look for an "E" in the cord designation if I needed it to be truly flexible in very cold temps.  "E" stands for "elastomer".  There are SOW, SOOW, STW...etc.  He said the least flexible will always have a "T", which stands for "thermoplastic".  The "clutch" is what makes the device such a pleasure to use.  You simply push down on the lever with the motor running and you can ease the cable onto the drum and make it coil perfectly.

The very expensive, high quality YELLOW cable I still own is by Marinco, known for great quality marine products, but I never carry it with me.  It is STW, and stiff as a brick in cold weather.  I could barely get it coiled up enough to get it into my storage bay in cold weather.  After purchasing this SEOW flexible cord, I repurposed the yellow Marinco one, and it is now my permanently installed cord in the RV shed.

As Bill B once said, "Some cords have a hard-on in cold weather." LOL

Yes, the genny door can be closed when the cord is removed.  The cord does not have a permanent connection to the coach.  The end you see is the Twist-Lock type that connects to the coach.  The other end is the standard male 14-50P (?) that plugs into a pedestal.  The reel I made is nothing but a storage device.  I still carry a 15' extension cord (SEOW) in the bay for times when needed.

Thanks.  It is truly the second most useful modifications I ever made to the coach.  The first was the Samsung residential fridge.  The third was a powered MCW front windshield shade.

And here's a shout-out to Bob (RIP) and Sue Haught, who sold me this marvelously maintained coach in 2013.  Due to their meticulous maintenance, I have enjoyed the luxury of only having to do "upgrades" and "improvements" instead of "repairs".  It has been a marvelous coach that I've put over 80K miles on (Alaska and back in 2016) and enjoyed every minute and every new friend I've made along the way.  The old girl is about to tick over 200K.

Safe travels...

Safe travels!

17 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

Van,   I don't care what they say,   you're a pretty fart smeller,    err   I mean smart feller.    ROFLMAO    😁

Yep,  you did good,  keep it coming,  we like it

 

14 hours ago, Rick A said:

I impressed as hell and luv these innovations. 

Rick A and Ray Davis, you are both great contributors in the spirit in which my good friend Bill D always wanted his forum to be--a place where you could get help on just about anything from folks who had "actually DONE it", not just read about it.  As the "crusty ol' Buzzard" Bill said one morning at his house while serving breakfast, "If you've only read about it and haven't actually DONE it, post somewhere else!!"

Dave Pratt, Ivan K, Bob Nodine, Tom Cherry, David (427), and countless others continue to carry on Bill's wishes.  Kudos to you all!

BTW, however much Bill D might have been endeared to the southern dish "scrapple", if it's ever offered to you, either politely decline or say, "Well, I'll just try a wee bit."  LOL


Solar Pre Wire on Roof
Ivylog

Yes, that’s the solar pre wiring and since you do not have a solar panel… only 2 wires in the block, you do not have a controller. The other ends of those cables will be hidden in the ceiling somewhere… try finding them below the refrigerator and mine were near the inverter.


Power cord reel
jacwjames

Well, I see that retirement has slowed you down at all.  Nice job. 

I looked ant the cord reel is and it's not in stock anywhere but I'll keep this in mind if/when I get tired of lugging my cord around. 


Solar Pre Wire on Roof
JDCrow
4 hours ago, tmw188 said:

Yes I’ve done solar on my last coach and use the old refrigerator vent as a chase. Asking about those wires though.

Sorry, I misunderstood your question focus. 


Electrical Issue
waterskier_1
3 hours ago, Chuck B said:

Sounds good except for one thing, the 2004, 5, and 6 did not come with two inverters.  Why would Monaco waste money putting two inverters in a coach?  Chuck B 2004 Windsor

Monaco did install two inverters on many coaches.  It wasn't (and likely still wouldn't be) a waste of money, because there were no readily available inverters that could handle an all electric coach.  

 


How often do HWH control units fail?
obb_taurus

Thanks for the info on setting the pressure for the tags, thought I saw something in my manual about it but couldn't find a thing.

I actually haven't checked if the tag axle comes up, will do that next time I get out to my coach.  Since I had a shop check out my air system and they gave it a clean bill of health although they didn't know the HWH system so couldn't check that aspect.  I'm forced to think it has to be something with the control box, unfortunately I don't know if the same thing happened the last time my control box went, wish I would have asked the mechanic what the symptoms were of the tag axle not going to travel mode, maybe I have to contact HWH and see if based on the information they can tell me if this is a control box issue.


No interior lights, No power to AC controllers, Overhead Fans not working, everything else ok
Ray Davis
7 hours ago, Patrick said:

Everything is working but I’m not sure exactly what the problem was. 

Both the solenoid and battery switches share similar symptoms of working then not working.

Like Richard said most of us find the solenoid and bypass it.   The battery switches are known to fail also,  and can be bypassed until a replacement can be done.   Just put both wires under the same screw.

Rest assured the problem will reappear at a particularly bad time.


House Batteries not charging while under way.
Dave16131

Yes! Ha, don't know why I wrote R&R.

M&M is the company I was referring to. Thanks willbo777 for clearing that up! 

 

Dave


Electrical Issue
Chuck B

I was not aware that Monaco built a all electric Camelot or Windsor.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Electrical Issue
LJPierce_ELY
4 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Thanks to WaterSkier_1 and Dr. Frank and Richard and all those that chimed in.  As I SAID, I can offer some theories but, as Dr. Frank says, we are MORE familiar with our own rigs....  So HERE GOES.....

The Print was the KEY.  Thanks to WaterSkier_1.  The Windsor matches, sort of, the way that Monaco did the 2008 Dynasties.....except they have TWO, I think, Inverters. The Trace is different than what we Magnum folks expect to see and the Subpanel complicates it. BUT, the PRINT resolves in my mind, what happened.

The ISSUE WAS, I think, the IOTA. The first clue was the "30" amp light. When the Intellitec EMS did not read 230 VAC between Line 1 and Line 2, then it defaults to 30 amp service as it assumes, and rightly so, that there is NOT two sides of 50 Amp service....Line 1 (Black) and Line 2 (Red). The IOTA had dropped a LEG or a Line. Doesn't matter WHICH, it only had ONE 115 VAC service.....so that Intellitec EMS worked.

NOW....That explains a LOT. If you look at the print that WaterSkier_1 supplied, then the TWO Breakers on the Main Panel (the Intellitec) NOW make sense. The Trace requires TWO separate INPUT AC inputs....which is what the Magnums require on the Dynasties....  

Look at the print again. There are TWO OUTPUTS to the Subpanel. That Subpanel, I THINK, is internally divided....

The Inverter 1 input powers Breakers 1 - 4.  The Inverter 2 Input powers Breakers 5 - 7...as there is NO Breaker 8.  The original symptoms were that the FRONT GFCI and the Microwave were out. SO, when the IOTA took out Line 2....which then became Inverter 2, that killed that.

Replace the IOTA with a good ATS and BINGO....all is well. NOW, at least to me, it makes sense.  I also learned a LOT about the Subpanels used in the older MH and see why Monaco switched to Magnums.....for the lower end. They are either 2000 Watt or 2800 Watt (with a Res Refer).  Dr. Frank's TWO Magnums have TWO incoming circuits....and then TWO outgoing. What makes his really UNIQUE is that there the Inverted power is one one side of the subpanel and the NON Inverter (goes dead when on Inverting) circuit are NOT battery powered.....

OK....this, I think, sums it up....but if anyone has any other pertinent comments....or corrections....please chime in.

NOW>>>>We Moderators always try to teach or at least make sure that folks learn and what is posted is correct.

I AM SUMMING UP A "SUGGESTED" To DO list for LJPierce_ELY.....the original poster.

You have, I think, learned a lot.....BUT, if you are a full timer and 100% DEPENDENT on your MH as your HOME....then, you need to be aware and, when convenient, address the following....

1. Consider a Surge Suppressor (HW50C) as UPSTREAM Protection for your NEW ATS....as well as all the electronics and appliances on board. IF you have a bad pedestal or a circuit problem and LOSE the Neutral or have a FLOATING NEUTRAL (Google that), then you can do several THOU$AND$ of $$ Damage.  We have had folks that hit $15K....they lost all the electric appliances....  THE HW50C protects you from that plus it also takes care and protects you from high and low voltages and such. IT protects the MH's Life's Blood....the POWER. I can NOT overemphasize this.

2. Purchase a SPARE Square D GFCI breaker and have it on hand. These go bad....or at least Fred White and many others had issues with them. You need to get the MODEL number off the one in use....

3. Plan a Preventative Maintenance session and TIGHTEN ALL THE LUGS on the Main Panel and the Subpanel.  Vibration from driving is your enemy. Loose connection will heat up and potentially cause a fire. This is common sense....you will be FINE for the next 5 years or so....AFTER YOU DO THIS...

4. If you did NOT USE LOCTITE GREEN on the lugs on the new ATS, then you will need to open it up and RETIGHTEN in 3 - 6 months.....THIS TIME USE LOCTITE as they will vibrate loose.  This is NOT the fault of any ATS, it is just the fact that when you drive, the ATS's screws will come loose.  ONCE RETIGHTENED WITH LOCTITE GREEN ON THEM, they should be good for a LONG TIME....  I have over 10 years and 50K on mine....with the Loctite and STILL TIGHT....but I check them...

5. When you do the PM on the Brown EMS Panel, do the reset to make sure it is "healthy"

6. Order a spare Camco plug and the Dow potting (sealing) compound. At the age of your plug, you will, I predict, eventually need it. MANY folks carry such....

OK.....GOT ALL THAT....now, here is ONE THING that we all learned at the GATHERING....

On the 5 BUTTON AC/Heat Thermostat, it is BETTER to use the MODE button and turn OFF each zone, rather than the slide switch at the bottom. These switches go out....so the less you use the slide switch, the better...

GOOD LUCK....

Tom, I will keep this as a to do. Many thanks for the suggestions.

Although the coach is not being used full time for the family, I am using it as full time housing for me since I'm in another state working away from home for possibly the next few years. So your suggestions are not falling on deaf ears.

Thanks again to everyone for their knowledge and assistance.


“Furnace” mode doesn’t show up on 5 button Comfort Controllers
philcarrell
On 8/2/2021 at 11:08 AM, Patrick said:

Yes it is. Just 10 days into ownership. 

Thank you. Where do I access this control board? Up on the roof or inside?

With Aqua Hot you may not have furnace, mine don't

 


Fuel filter's for ISB 300 2004 Monaco Cayman
Idoc57

I deliberated over the same issue for the filters on my '06 Cayman 300 horsepower ISB. Check your manual carefully you may find that it has a typographical error.  One place it says  S3201P and another place it says 53201P. I think it is actually an S instead of a 5 on the first digit.


Solar Pre Wire on Roof
tmw188
6 hours ago, tmw188 said:

When I sealed off my old refrigerator roof vent I notice what I assume is a terminal block for solar. I haven’t looked for it yet in my manual with all the wiring diagrams but was wondering what info some of you may have. I did check for voltage there and there wasn’t any. I haven’t looked any further into it, but  may be a empty dc fuse space dedicated to that terminal block in the bedroom. 

E9C85837-53C8-4061-962F-DD53963857D6.jpeg

To clear up any confusion. When I mentioned I check for voltage at those two wires was just to see if it was possibly wired to the batteries, thought possibly it went thru the dc fuse block. 

2 hours ago, JDCrow said:

Sorry, I misunderstood your question focus. 

NP, there JD


Water leak from rain
Steven P

I have been chasing a water leak above the door when it rains. Today I cleared out old silicone and dicor and added new proflex above the door, awning, upper beltline etc in the area above the door.  I also added eternabond tape where there was none. Unfortunately the rain moved in again before I could add dicor back and the leak was just as bad as always.  I don't think the dicor is gonna help.  Has anyone dealt w similar issues?  What worked?  

20210808_171451.jpg


Electrical Issue
Chuck B

Remember the IOTA switched the neutral, not the two 120 vac lines.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Solar Pre Wire on Roof
David K

My 2003 Holiday Rambler Scepter 40 PST shows this in the manual (page 283) about pre-wired solar on my coach.

 

The motorhome comes pre-wired to accept a solar battery charging system. A pair of wires is routed from the refrigerator compartment to the battery compartment. Location and Wire Type: • A pair of 12 gauge - red and white. • Wires terminate just below the refrigerator roof vent. Remove roof vent to access wires. • Wires terminated behind the battery compartment combined with a group of other wires. Use only the red and white 12 gauge wires. The wires are protected with convoluted tubing. NOTE: When installing a solar powered battery charging system, a fuse or circuit breaker of no more than a 20 Amps rating must be installed within two feet of the positive (+) battery connection.


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
Grampy OG

I find this very interesting and I think I am motivated to pull out the old bird, etc. I am not even sure that my 1 solar panel even works so it would probably be a good time to pull that system out. Looking at your picture (excellent work) and the picture on AMZ I see a pigtail of assorted wires. Does it become clear once reading the install manual where the heck that bundle of wires goes? 

 

Thanks for the write up,

Ken


Water leak from rain
klcdenver

I had same problem. Finally cut a rain gutter out of some aluminum flashing about 3” wide and bent it into L shape about 1”x2” with the 2” part sagging downward a little just so the door will clear it when closing. The length should be a few inches wider than top of the door. I painted mine black about the same color as the door frame. I mounted one end slightly higher on one end to create a runoff. I mounted it using Lexal which is same as silicone but sticks better and does not yellow.  It works great so far and last week was in 2 downpours. If you want a picture let me know and can get it for you in a few days. 


Solar Pre Wire on Roof
tmw188
6 hours ago, jacwjames said:

I believe my solar controller (never actually touched it though) behind the Inverter panel.  On my coach there is another display directly above that shows the charging amps and also has a switch to check the house and chassis voltage.   

In my passenger side rear electrical compartment there is a wire attached to the house and chassis battery lugs coming into that compartment, each has a fuse holder, I believe a 5 amp for the chassis and 25 amp for the house. 

The wiring diagram does have these shown, along with the solar controller although it doesn't show location.  Check page 26 on the wiring diagrams PDF.  The problem is that Monaco used 8 awg wire with will not allow for a decent amount of solar charging.   I think if I were to upgrade mine I'd keep the existing panels for the chassis and more for the house. 

I am currently adding a second inverter back in the bedroom independent of the current system so I will have a back up for power and charging.  I could easily tap into this line (2 awg) to charge the house batteries . 

Looking for that page 26 in back of the OM? I don’t see the page numbers? I don’t want to turn this thread into anything too long but do want to find the diagram. 


Water leak from rain
Steven P

@klcdenver

thanks for the input.  Yes, please post a pic.  


Solar Pre Wire on Roof
jacwjames

There are wiring diagrams for 2002 Windsor in the download section in electrical!  These are PDF, you can search for specific name >>> i.e. solar and it will take you through the pages that have it listed. 

The page I listed has a bunch on info and when you zoom in it will be blurry, hit CTRL5 and it will clear right up.  If I need to save a page view of a specific I print it to PDF. 


Water leak from rain
Chuck B

I had the same issue.  Ended up having to adjust the door to completely close against the gasket.  There should be a door adjustment in the group files.  If not, send me a PM at jbee99807@gmail.com  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Water leak from rain
Ivan K

Ours came with a gutter like this from factory. It is hard but somewhat flexible to a push, maybe rubber under the paint.

IMG_20210808_192723149.jpg


Water leak from rain
Robertpk

Hello all, I to had a leak over my door. Turned out the pop rivets holding the awning to the coach were gone. Used 1/4 inch pop rivets and the leak was gone. Hope this may help.


Water leak from rain
MrAmbassador

I had a leak that looked like it was coming in from the top of the door, it turned out to be the seam on the cap on the roof. 


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
vanwill52
1 hour ago, Grampy OG said:

I find this very interesting and I think I am motivated to pull out the old bird, etc. I am not even sure that my 1 solar panel even works so it would probably be a good time to pull that system out. Looking at your picture (excellent work) and the picture on AMZ I see a pigtail of assorted wires. Does it become clear once reading the install manual where the heck that bundle of wires goes? 

 

Thanks for the write up,

Ken

Ken, one need not connect even a single small wire for the ML-ACR to do its job.  The first small wire you MIGHT consider using is the one that allows you to remotely control (override) the built-in programming of the ML-ACR using a switch that pops right into the previous "Battery Boost" location.  The ML-ACR offers several options like disconnecting when the engine is cranking, disconnecting when alternator and genny are running, etc.  Most folks do not use those options, but they are available.  It is a VERY capable device that is simple, bulletproof, and guaranteed for as long as you own it.


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