Steer Tire Blow Outs

[Mike H]

27 minutes ago, Bob R said:

I purchased the emergency kit when I was at the gathering in 2019. The kit did not contain the extra bolts. I’ll contact Chuck to see if he can give me the specs or sell me the bolts. Thanks for the information.

That's strange.  I purchased mine at the 2019 Gathering also.  I'll be if you give him a call he may just send you a couple.  I know I got extra bolts but I can't remember now whether or not they were in the kit or he gave them to me.

[Bob Nodine]

Mike,

I have owned the Tyrons for over 10 years and purchased two new bolts at the Gathering in Feb. Sorry if I misled you into thinking I was inexperienced with the Tyrons. After doing a brake job on the coach myself last fall and talking to Bill Groves who purchased some used Tyrons and installed them along with new tires, I feel confident I can do the same. I got excited when I saw the homemade compression tool made from a four point lug wrench because it looked much easier to use than the Spider kit. Sure it is not portable but I have no intention of carrying something like that in the coach. I have been thinking about different ways to compress the tires. After doing the brake job I had all the wheels off and back on the coach by myself and know it would be simple to remove the front wheels and lay them down on the ground. I am not a fan of the beads and have heard many good reports on the Centramatic wheel balaners. I know this sounds ridiculous to many but I have always liked doing my own work when I can.  I have a garage with a 220 volt two stage air compressor, a 1 inch air wrench, a torque multiplier, and a torque wrench that I can set the 500 foot lbs on the lug nuts.

 

[Tom Cherry]

16 hours ago, Mike H said:

That's strange.  I purchased mine at the 2019 Gathering also.  I'll be if you give him a call he may just send you a couple.  I know I got extra bolts but I can't remember now whether or not they were in the kit or he gave them to me.

Comments from working with Chuck since 2010.  The hardware or the "bolt kit" is a specialty bolt.  It is easier to purchase the kit from Chuck.  I really "doubt" that there is any wear on the components.  However, the elastic or nylon  lock nut should NOT be used again.  Whether Chuck's OEM nut is any different from any nylon lock nut that you purchase at an ACE or wherever is a judgement call.  However, the bolt is a very special bolt.  I was the Engineering Manager for a fastener company for several years.  The Tyron bolt is not readily available through any of the specialty fastener companies.....so finding it on eBay or online and not purchasing a minimum quantity of say 20 or so is difficult.  I did a lot of looking (too much time on my hands and curiosity).  They were not, based on my research, out there.  

As to the kit.  I think it is a necessity as when you need a tire installed, you have it.  I had to replace my steers during a trip and was on a tight schedule as my GK's were flying in and we had left some "fudge days" and we were OK.  So, it depends.  If you travel leisurely and rarely have a fixed schedule....then it is your call.  The NEW kit works great.  I think that I threw in some adapters so that I could install the locking bolt a little easier.  If you don't have an inch pound torque wrench, then you really need to have an "experienced" feel for how much the 120 inch pounds is.  

I will also repeat.....I changed my SPACERS on the third set of steer tires.  My Tyron's were put on about 10K or so.  So, I got about 45 - 50K out of them.  NOW....if one recalls, the conventional wisdom of "getting a little life" out of the Goodyear OEM tires was to bump the pressure up to say 123-125 and that would reduce or eliminate the "Rivering".  That also resulted in higher internal tire pressures as the tires were flexing more and the impact of the load of the MH was a factor.  So, I had run my tires for maybe 10K with a higher pressure and at a higher temperature.  I figured that AFTER 50K or so, that it was time to replace the plastic spacers and have a "new" setup.  So, I would advise that if you have run your Tyrons for 50K or so to have a spare set of spacers and install them and the new hardware.  

[piercelarry69]

On 3/16/2020 at 5:27 PM, MSHappyCampers said:

Right after getting our 2002 Windsor in 2012 I installed a set of SteerSafe stabilizers just to help in controlling the coach in case of a front tire blowout!  Thank God I haven't found out if they work!  🙂

Joe

Have a 2001 Windsor with stabilizers  an had a right front blow out an no problem took foot off gas  did not use brake  an came to a stop in median 

[Bobbyboy]

Bob Nodine  mentioned tire tools that Bill G  has;  not sure if they are special made but would love to see a pic of them.  Maybe Bill G could chime in here and give us a pic.  I do like that compression tool;  I have the spider kit but it is a bit flimsy.  Never have used it as when I had my tires replaced it was done at Alliance in Wildwood and they had their own tool.  Of course that was before Lazdays bought alliance so I have no idea what is used now.

 

 

Bob L

[Tom Cherry]

19 minutes ago, Bobbyboy said:

Bob Nodine  mentioned tire tools that Bill G  has;  not sure if they are special made but would love to see a pic of them.  Maybe Bill G could chime in here and give us a pic.  I do like that compression tool;  I have the spider kit but it is a bit flimsy.  Never have used it as when I had my tires replaced it was done at Alliance in Wildwood and they had their own tool.  Of course that was before Lazdays bought alliance so I have no idea what is used now.

 

 

Bob L

I had both the original spider tool and now the upgraded one.  Feedback from folks on the old site was what lead to Chuck Thatcher improving the kit.  The old kit works.  I used it.  The new kit is better.  There is a simple weld fix for the old kit where you reinforce it.  Many have done this.  Maybe some can post.  I gave mine to a member who, i think, added the welds and upgraded it.

The original spider kit came from more of a machine/job shop than a manufacturing operation.  The new kit is much larger (bigger case) and requires more storage room.  I moved mine from the lower compartment and it is now in the dead space of the cabinet above the bed, in the very back.

As to the function...and perhaps Bill's tool(s).  The original kit, without any mods, worked.  The secret was "CENTER" and then compress SLOWLY.  I actually did both my reinstalls.  One with the old and one with the new.  If you get sloppy and don't center the spider arms or don't push them in all the way or seat them, then when you tighten, it gets a little wobbly.  I stopped on my first attempt and took my time.  No issues.  The reinforcement took out some of the flex so you could be a little less "persnickety" in the positioning.

The second is more robust and works a little better.  I have not seen Bill's design.  The real decision is "WHO will do the install and WHAT is their SKILL Level and how "meticulous" are they.

Bill changes, i believe, his own tires.  Many do...I don't.  So, when you are getting tires installed, you sometimes are at the mercy of the techs.  If you assist or are there and can explain WHAT needs to be accomplished....then a home made tool or the original (not modified) spider may not be exactly what an inexperienced tech can "understand".  Reinforcing the original spider solves that.  

Having the NEW spider tool eliminates a lot of the precision positioning and you can "have at it".  Otherwise setting up the original spider and then slowly or methodically tightening the tool works and is not a safety hazard.

 

[MSHappyCampers]

5 hours ago, piercelarry69 said:

Have a 2001 Windsor with stabilizers  an had a right front blow out an no problem took foot off gas  did not use brake  an came to a stop in median 

Were you using the SteerSafe stabilizers?

[piercelarry69]

2 minutes ago, MSHappyCampers said:

Were you using the SteerSafe stabilizers?

yes

[Bobbyboy]

Thanks Tom;  I will have to change my steer tires next summer and would love to find someone who knows Tyron Bands to do it.  I live south of New Orleans and unfortunately no one in this area knows anything about them.  I used Alliance four years ago and they were equipped to do it and were familiar with them.  Don't know about today after Lazydays took over.  I don't mind running down to Florida (or anywhere reasonable) to put new tires as long as I can find someone who knows Tyrons.

 

Bob L

[David Pratt]

Call Chuck at TYRON USA - 1-507-279-1767. And give him your location and he will be able to tell you where the distributors are in your area or go to TYRON USA website and it should have a list of approved vendors.

[Bobbyboy]

Thanks Dave

 

Bob L

[Bob Nodine]

18 hours ago, Bobbyboy said:

Thanks Tom;  I will have to change my steer tires next summer and would love to find someone who knows Tyron Bands to do it.  I live south of New Orleans and unfortunately no one in this area knows anything about them.  I used Alliance four years ago and they were equipped to do it and were familiar with them.  Don't know about today after Lazydays took over.  I don't mind running down to Florida (or anywhere reasonable) to put new tires as long as I can find someone who knows Tyrons.

 

Bob L

Lazydays at Tampa  sells and installs the Tyron bands and that is where we purchased ours quite a few years ago. I would think the Alliance location would also know how to deal with the bands.

On 6/8/2020 at 4:16 AM, Tom Cherry said:

Comments from working with Chuck since 2010.  The hardware or the "bolt kit" is a specialty bolt.  It is easier to purchase the kit from Chuck.  I really "doubt" that there is any wear on the components.  However, the elastic or nylon  lock nut should NOT be used again.  Whether Chuck's OEM nut is any different from any nylon lock nut that you purchase at an ACE or wherever is a judgement call.  However, the bolt is a very special bolt.  I was the Engineering Manager for a fastener company for several years.  The Tyron bolt is not readily available through any of the specialty fastener companies.....so finding it on eBay or online and not purchasing a minimum quantity of say 20 or so is difficult.  I did a lot of looking (too much time on my hands and curiosity).  They were not, based on my research, out there.  

As to the kit.  I think it is a necessity as when you need a tire installed, you have it.  I had to replace my steers during a trip and was on a tight schedule as my GK's were flying in and we had left some "fudge days" and we were OK.  So, it depends.  If you travel leisurely and rarely have a fixed schedule....then it is your call.  The NEW kit works great.  I think that I threw in some adapters so that I could install the locking bolt a little easier.  If you don't have an inch pound torque wrench, then you really need to have an "experienced" feel for how much the 120 inch pounds is.  

I will also repeat.....I changed my SPACERS on the third set of steer tires.  My Tyron's were put on about 10K or so.  So, I got about 45 - 50K out of them.  NOW....if one recalls, the conventional wisdom of "getting a little life" out of the Goodyear OEM tires was to bump the pressure up to say 123-125 and that would reduce or eliminate the "Rivering".  That also resulted in higher internal tire pressures as the tires were flexing more and the impact of the load of the MH was a factor.  So, I had run my tires for maybe 10K with a higher pressure and at a higher temperature.  I figured that AFTER 50K or so, that it was time to replace the plastic spacers and have a "new" setup.  So, I would advise that if you have run your Tyrons for 50K or so to have a spare set of spacers and install them and the new hardware.  

I was not aware that the spacers were a wear item. Seems to me that if they are wearing something is wrong because the band should not be slipping on the rim.

20 hours ago, Bobbyboy said:

Bob Nodine  mentioned tire tools that Bill G  has;  not sure if they are special made but would love to see a pic of them.  Maybe Bill G could chime in here and give us a pic.  I do like that compression tool;  I have the spider kit but it is a bit flimsy.  Never have used it as when I had my tires replaced it was done at Alliance in Wildwood and they had their own tool.  Of course that was before Lazdays bought alliance so I have no idea what is used now.

 

 

Bob L

There is nothing special about the tire tool Bill is using. He sent me a link to it.

https://tinyurl.com/ycsk3dvl

 

Edited June 9, 2020 by Bob Nodine

[Rich Cutler]

I purchased and installed the Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer.   I used to have on my older Endeavor 1998,  the Howard Power Centering which I loved but is no longer available.  I had a front blowout on a Michelin with that system and it was like, other than the explosive bang, no effect at all.  I managed to slowly pull off to the side under full control.   Two rear tires on that set also later blew which is when the remaining were removed after an age of 4 years.  I was convinced they had to be a defective batch.   I had gotten to know  parties within Michelin America, they did pick up the cost of the last three and 50% of the first three.  I never exceed 65 and always monitor pressure and temperature.

Back to Safe-T-Plus.   Am I now foolish to rely on it for blowout control as it basically does what the Howard system did, less the adjustments while in use?  Are there any reports out there on Safe-T-Plus in action and is it effective?

Rich Cutler '06 Windsor

[johncvandoren@gmail.com]

On 6/6/2020 at 9:21 PM, Mike H said:

Bob,  You will need one bolt per band.  I can't verify the bolt size right now because our coach is in storage and that's where I keep my spares.  It appears to be a SS socket head bolt about 1/4" x 2 or 2-1/2" long.  I don't know the thread but I'm guessing it to be a fine thread and it very well may be a metric bolt.  They have a special drive socket tool with a hex head end on it.  I would suggest just getting in touch with Chuck Thatcher and get them from him.  What happened in my case is that the tech who had installed them previously snapped off the end of the tool and left it wedged in the head of the bolt and didn't tell anyone.  When I went to replace the tires they had to cut it in order to remove the band, and of course they adamantly denied it was their fault.  Fortunately I had a friend locally who had a spare.  If you buy their emergency road kit it comes with a set of spare bolts.

How do I contact Chuck, and where can I get the spare bolt, or the Emergency Repair Kit to carry on the road?

[Mike H]

John,

Dave has his contact info in the VENDORS topis:

Chuck Thatcher CEO, email: chuck@tyron-usa.com

Tire Safety and Flat Tire Protection

8265A Causeway Blvd. Tampa, Florida  Phone 813-620-0364

www..tyron-usa.com

Hope this helps.

[Tom Cherry]

I would like to chime in here.  John has provided some great pictures.  However, there are many of us that have been using the bands for several years and also have had one-on-one conversations with Chuck and his installers and shop foreman.  

I would, with all due respect, add the following comments to John's post.

The bolt is a SPECIALTY BOLT.  You can NOT find it anywhere.  I was the Engineering Manager for a Fastener company and I understand threads and IFI standards.  We made so many "specialty" bolts that we had several filing cabinets full of customer's prints.

BOTTOM LINE.  You need to get hardware from Chuck of Tyron fame.  Anything else is, no offense, foolish and life threatening.  

NOW....having said that....the size is a 6MM Allen.  You can use a small Allen wrench with a "torque multiplier" of just a simple box end wrench.  You can also use a small ratchet.....depending on how much you compress, you might need a U-Joint.  

I have done this twice and talked to Chuck's chief installer.  They use a "Power Screwdriver" that they have "SET" to the right torque.

However, the correct SPEC is 10 Ft Lbs.  A heavy handed mechanic can damage the hardware by using brute force.  This band is designed to SAVE YOUR LIFE and family and others.  DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN or use a "3/8" drive TORQUE wrench (where the lowest setting is 10 Foot Pounds).  I also used to MAKE torque wrenches and we supplied several name brand companies and private labeled them.  You need to KNOW how much 120 Inch Pounds is....  You need to know or have a feel.  

There is a danger in OVER  torquing....in that you damage or fatigue the bolt or the nylon stop nut.  NOT GOOD.  

There is a danger in UNDER torquing....in that the band will eventually drift or shift to the outside.  The band was designed to be centered so the beads would NOT BREAK.  If it is loose or slips sideways.....all bets are OFF on it working.  

I have a picture of the hardware.  NOTE the band is pushed to the side.  So much for Lazy Day's "Premium Install and Quality Control".  I griped about this to no avail.  

I have also included a PDF of the install technique.  The NEW (or the old used properly) Spider Tool Kit works.

I need to get NEW hardware.  I used mine the last time.  BUT, I have new NUTS.  The NUTS CAN NEVER BE REUSED.  You can buy the nuts at any hardware store.  They are not some "exotic" or high tech or specialty grade.

The bolt is.....that is why you buy it from Chuck.  You also get the new "collars".  Personally,, I doubt you could ever mess one of them up....but I have seen folks make a mockery of my common sense statement.  Chuck sells the WHOLE kit.

If you have over 50K on the bands....you need NEW SPACERS.  The tire runs at around 160 dF.  The plastic is probably rated for that.  BUT, after years of thermal cycling and also age....why risk it.  The spacers are CHEAP.  Don't try to save $20 and defeat the purpose of the band....

Hope this helps.  No offense meant to anyone, but as a Moderator and also a knowledgeable user and also have listened to Chuck's comments over the years....we need reiterate or restate the facts and also inject common sense....

You bought these to save your life and family and other motorists as well as your motor home.  DON'T go cheap and use the wrong bolt or the wrong "underhead" shape...

Hope this helps.....and is taken in the proper context....

Tyron-USA-Fit-Inst-Slick..pdf

Edited June 10, 2020 by Tom Cherry
Edit Typos and final conclusion

[Bob R]

On 6/7/2020 at 10:21 AM, Bob R said:

I purchased the emergency kit when I was at the gathering in 2019. The kit did not contain the extra bolts. I’ll contact Chuck to see if he can give me the specs or sell me the bolts. Thanks for the information.

Chuck called yesterday and is shipping the bolts to me by UPS today.  Thanks to everyone for the help with this.

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

I would like to chime in here.  John has provided some great pictures.  However, there are many of us that have been using the bands for several years and also have had one-on-one conversations with Chuck and his installers and shop foreman.  

I would, with all due respect, add the following comments to John's post.

The bolt is a SPECIALTY BOLT.  You can NOT find it anywhere.  I was the Engineering Manager for a Fastener company and I understand threads and IFI standards.  We made so many "specialty" bolts that we had several filing cabinets full of customer's prints.

BOTTOM LINE.  You need to get hardware from Chuck of Tyron fame.  Anything else is, no offense, foolish and life threatening.  

NOW....having said that....the size is a 6MM Allen.  You can use a small Allen wrench with a "torque multiplier" of just a simple box end wrench.  You can also use a small ratchet.....depending on how much you compress, you might need a U-Joint.  

I have done this twice and talked to Chuck's chief installer.  They use a "Power Screwdriver" that they have "SET" to the right torque.

However, the correct SPEC is 10 Ft Lbs.  A heavy handed mechanic can damage the hardware by using brute force.  This band is designed to SAVE YOUR LIFE and family and others.  DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN or use a "3/8" drive TORQUE wrench (where the lowest setting is 10 Foot Pounds).  I also used to MAKE torque wrenches and we supplied several name brand companies and private labeled them.  You need to KNOW how much 120 Inch Pounds is....  You need to know or have a feel.  

There is a danger in OVER  torquing....in that you damage or fatigue the bolt or the nylon stop nut.  NOT GOOD.  

There is a danger in UNDER torquing....in that the band will eventually drift or shift to the outside.  The band was designed to be centered so the beads would NOT BREAK.  If it is loose or slips sideways.....all bets are OFF on it working.  

I have a picture of the hardware.  NOTE the band is pushed to the side.  So much for Lazy Day's "Premium Install and Quality Control".  I griped about this to no avail.  

I have also included a PDF of the install technique.  The NEW (or the old used properly) Spider Tool Kit works.

I need to get NEW hardware.  I used mine the last time.  BUT, I have new NUTS.  The NUTS CAN NEVER BE REUSED.  You can buy the nuts at any hardware store.  They are not some "exotic" or high tech or specialty grade.

The bolt is.....that is why you buy it from Chuck.  You also get the new "collars".  Personally,, I doubt you could ever mess one of them up....but I have seen folks make a mockery of my common sense statement.  Chuck sells the WHOLE kit.

If you have over 50K on the bands....you need NEW SPACERS.  The tire runs at around 160 dF.  The plastic is probably rated for that.  BUT, after years of thermal cycling and also age....why risk it.  The spacers are CHEAP.  Don't try to save $20 and defeat the purpose of the band....

Hope this helps.  No offense meant to anyone, but as a Moderator and also a knowledgeable user and also have listened to Chuck's comments over the years....we need reiterate or restate the facts and also inject common sense....

You bought these to save your life and family and other motorists as well as your motor home.  DON'T go cheap and use the wrong bolt or the wrong "underhead" shape...

Hope this helps.....and is taken in the proper context....

Tyron-USA-Fit-Inst-Slick..pdf 242.34 kB · 1 download

Tom,

Thanks for sharing this information.  It all makes perfect sense.  I didn't witness the original installation of these bands so I am looking forward to watching the installer when I have my new tires mounted.  Now I'll know a lot more about what the process should be when the bands are reinstalled.

[Mike H]

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

I would like to chime in here.  John has provided some great pictures.  However, there are many of us that have been using the bands for several years and also have had one-on-one conversations with Chuck and his installers and shop foreman.  

I would, with all due respect, add the following comments to John's post.

The bolt is a SPECIALTY BOLT.  You can NOT find it anywhere.  I was the Engineering Manager for a Fastener company and I understand threads and IFI standards.  We made so many "specialty" bolts that we had several filing cabinets full of customer's prints.

BOTTOM LINE.  You need to get hardware from Chuck of Tyron fame.  Anything else is, no offense, foolish and life threatening.  

NOW....having said that....the size is a 6MM Allen.  You can use a small Allen wrench with a "torque multiplier" of just a simple box end wrench.  You can also use a small ratchet.....depending on how much you compress, you might need a U-Joint.  

I have done this twice and talked to Chuck's chief installer.  They use a "Power Screwdriver" that they have "SET" to the right torque.

However, the correct SPEC is 10 Ft Lbs.  A heavy handed mechanic can damage the hardware by using brute force.  This band is designed to SAVE YOUR LIFE and family and others.  DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN or use a "3/8" drive TORQUE wrench (where the lowest setting is 10 Foot Pounds).  I also used to MAKE torque wrenches and we supplied several name brand companies and private labeled them.  You need to KNOW how much 120 Inch Pounds is....  You need to know or have a feel.  

There is a danger in OVER  torquing....in that you damage or fatigue the bolt or the nylon stop nut.  NOT GOOD.  

There is a danger in UNDER torquing....in that the band will eventually drift or shift to the outside.  The band was designed to be centered so the beads would NOT BREAK.  If it is loose or slips sideways.....all bets are OFF on it working.  

I have a picture of the hardware.  NOTE the band is pushed to the side.  So much for Lazy Day's "Premium Install and Quality Control".  I griped about this to no avail.  

I have also included a PDF of the install technique.  The NEW (or the old used properly) Spider Tool Kit works.

I need to get NEW hardware.  I used mine the last time.  BUT, I have new NUTS.  The NUTS CAN NEVER BE REUSED.  You can buy the nuts at any hardware store.  They are not some "exotic" or high tech or specialty grade.

The bolt is.....that is why you buy it from Chuck.  You also get the new "collars".  Personally,, I doubt you could ever mess one of them up....but I have seen folks make a mockery of my common sense statement.  Chuck sells the WHOLE kit.

If you have over 50K on the bands....you need NEW SPACERS.  The tire runs at around 160 dF.  The plastic is probably rated for that.  BUT, after years of thermal cycling and also age....why risk it.  The spacers are CHEAP.  Don't try to save $20 and defeat the purpose of the band....

Hope this helps.  No offense meant to anyone, but as a Moderator and also a knowledgeable user and also have listened to Chuck's comments over the years....we need reiterate or restate the facts and also inject common sense....

You bought these to save your life and family and other motorists as well as your motor home.  DON'T go cheap and use the wrong bolt or the wrong "underhead" shape...

Hope this helps.....and is taken in the proper context....

Tyron-USA-Fit-Inst-Slick..pdf 242.34 kB · 1 download

Tom,  Just curious.  Did you install the bands BEFORE the tire was mounted?  When I had my new tires mounted they mounted the tire on the rim and then installed the band.  After looking at your photo I now have to believe mine are sitting off center as well.

[Tom Cherry]

18 hours ago, Mike H said:

Tom,  Just curious.  Did you install the bands BEFORE the tire was mounted?  When I had my new tires mounted they mounted the tire on the rim and then installed the band.  After looking at your photo I now have to believe mine are sitting off center as well.

NO....the bands were installed AFTER the first bead was seated or the tire was on the rim.  

When I replaced my tires around 20K, the installer popped off the tire without removing the band.  NOW, that is easy, says Chuck's Shop Foreman, as the tire has been flexed or worn and it will typically come off without the need for the compression or the spider tool.

BUT, the picture shows that the band, after being "run for about 15K was NOT properly installed.  The band is supposed to be centered....so that when the bead starts to drop into the well, that it stays on the walls or the edges of the wells and the tire does now "Wallow About" inside the well.  By keeping the sidewall profiles supported or close to how they are when inflated, you can slow down and have control.

When I sent the picture to Lazy Days, they were not responsive and said that "They will work just as well".  I guess it is a matter of "Practice what I PREACH....not what I do".  So, from a design standpoint....and all the literature and listening the seminars and lectures....my take is that the band is supposed to be centered.

Centering the band, after you have one bead seated is a bit tricky.  Being an engineer (and somewhat anal or OCD), i used my fingers and a miniMag LED light and made sure it was centered (eyeballing it carefully or using my fingers as a gage).  THEN, I started to tighten the band and then finally torqued it correctly.

I should point out again.....the spacers are for two (i was told) purposed.  First....there are three (?) sizes.  Therefore, they allow one band to be used on many wheel brands.  Second....they also create a barrier so the band does not "weld itself" to the wheel due to the Galvanic (corrosive) action.

It is IMPERATIVE that new spacers be thoroughly seated using a good, robust rubber hammer.  IF the spacers (even one or two) are NOT flush and seated....then in a few hundred miles....it will be....thus, you have the potential for a loose band.  Centrifugal force acts on a loose band.....and it slips to the outside.  SO, were my bands not properly torqued by Lazy Days or were the spacers not properly seated by Lazy Days.  

I can tell you that when we popped the tires about 30K later....them puppies were tight and centered.  So, I know that my installation in 2012 was done properly.  I also made sure that every one of those yellow rascals were seated and "rubber malleted" in place.  I guess when I pull them the next time, I shall be able to report on the correctness of my install.

That DOES mean that I torqued them properly at 20K.

Hope this explains it better and is beneficial to you and others.

[Hotrod - R.I.P.]

I had a right front blowout on a 28’ gasser Winnie Chiefton in the 90s on i90 going into Albany. It’s at least 8 lanes. The blowout jerked me two lanes to the right to the hard shoulder before I got control . The lurch to the right was before I could react at all. Ran a car off the road.  But no one was hurt. Had body damage on the RV. The blowout came with no warning .

So now, I do the following and hope it saves us.

1. Steer tires run no more than 5 seasons. Michelin’s, about 1500 a pair.  No Gy670s or cheap Chinese rubber.  How does the DOT keep track of Chinese made tires ?

2. Pressure Pro with graphics and real time chart to identify any odd behavior which might get my attention before a failure. 

3. Safe-T-Plus to prevent instantaneous motion of tie rod... to prevent that lurch to another lane. I’ve had the same one on two coaches. Makes it drive better too.

4. Tyron Bands to keep the rubber on the rim and not piled up in the wheel well.  It took me a while to come around to the Tyron’s. I had to understand fully how they work. Now I’m a believer.
 

Aamof despite anecdotal statements, I don’t think they can be put on without a tool to compress the tire... I mount my own. Their whole purpose is to prevent access to the deep well which prevents getting he tire over the rim.  If someone manages to put a tire on or take it off with the Tyron in place , I can assure you the Tyron is no longer in place. 

Am I anal about it. Yes. Because I know what can happen. 

 

 

 

[Hotrod - R.I.P.]

The tire irons are kentool t45ac irons. You will need two. You can get them from zoro.com or other places. 
 

Also I use an earthquake 1200 ftlb cordless lithum impact tool on the lugs from harbor freight. I used to use a torque multiplier but the impact tool is a lot less work .

I had tried a DEWALT also but it didn’t live up to its 1200ftlb  rating. The 1400 ftlb from Milwaukee is probably a good option.  Also I have a 600ft lb torque wrench that is 4 ft long to tighten lugs to 500 ft lb.  A 3/4” tee bar also works with a couple 3’ cheaters . And you need some extensions to reach the lugs on the rear tires. 
 

Dont forget some tire soap (water soluable).

You will also need a 20 ton bottle jack (air over hydraulic) or floor model and some 22 ton jack stands if you want to be safe.

I got the spider tool from Chuck T a couple years ago at the gathering and some new bolts and the right spacers. 
 

I use balance masters for balancing .   I have ceramic beads in the tag though. 

Edited June 13, 2020 by Hotrod

[pwhittle]

I recently bought the Milwaukee Fuel 3/4” impact wrench. 1400 ft lb loosening and 1200 ft lb tightening torque.

It has no problem taking nuts off my coach and Van Williams coach.

I use a 475 ft lb torque stick to put them back on.

Paul

[Ivan K]

As an alternative, I use these for big boy tires. Heavy but effective. Then a torque multiplier calibrated to just under 500 ftlb  and electronic torque meter to finish it off. If I did not have a real tire changer, I would much prefere changing these big tires over small low profile car tires, that's how easy it is.

[Jim Andrews]

This is a good time to remind us all  about blowouts and to "speed up" until you get control. Sounds crazy, but go to the link and see a  proven video for the reason why.   Safe travels.

https://www.doityourselfrv.com/rv-tire-blowout-tip/I 

[David Pratt]

Chuck Thatcher (TYRON USA) forwarded an email that a Member sent to him. With all the current discussion on this thread about TYRON BANDs, I felt compelled to share this information with our members. It is another Testimonial of a first hand experience with a Steer Tire Failure with the TYRON BANDs installed.

The Email speaks for itself!!

Dave

From: Marc Franken | Frankentek <Marc@frankentek.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 19, 2020 3:15:54 PM
To: Chuck Thacther <chuck@tyron-usa.com>
Subject: Motor Home Front Right Blow out - Family saved by Tyron!

 

Dear Sir,

 

My family, kids and dog were heading north on the PA turnpike just before the Allentown exit, and the front right tire blew up.  VERY loud and scary experience!!  I was able to control the 46,000LB motorhome and safely brake and steer it to the side of the road. Thank God I had these Tyron’s installed. I would tell anyone that if they didn’t have them they were CRAZY!

In fact just told 2 of my buddies who own pushers.

 

The tow truck service company sent an emergency tire repair truck with a truck tire the same size and installed it. They strapped the body panels back so they were safe to drive the motorhome. They had to cut the damaged Tyron bolt off, so I need a new complete band. I have the tool kit. My tire size is 295 / 80R22.5.

 

PLEASE SHIP IT TO MY OFFICE BELOW.

 

TYRON Agreement number #13531

Purchased from LazyDays

2009 American Coach

Model Allegiance 42G

 

The wheel is going to be replaced by Progressive RV insurance company and hopefully they will pay for the full amount.

 

Thank you very much!!

Marc