Epoxy Oh NO

[Guest Ray Davis]

Got it,  thanks a million.

[OhReally]

jacwjames, good work on your repair but you might want to consider one more possible leak point in your coach.

If you have an AC in your bedroom it can produce a very large amount of condensation at times and it just might find its way to where you just repaired. If you run the bedroom AC at a very cold setting on an extremely hot day, you can produce condensation within the AC distribution box and maybe the ductwork. Best to always run bedroom AC on high fan and at minimum cooling to minimize condensation in that area. The high fan will help prevent freeze ups (which will overwhelm the AC's drain capability as they melt) and keep large amounts of condensation from pooling.

-jamie

[jacwjames]

2 minutes ago, OhReally said:

jacwjames, good work on your repair but you might want to consider one more possible leak point in your coach.

If you have an AC in your bedroom it can produce a very large amount of condensation at times and it just might find its way to where you just repaired. If you run the bedroom AC at a very cold setting on an extremely hot day, you can produce condensation within the AC distribution box and maybe the ductwork. Best to always run bedroom AC on high fan and at minimum cooling to minimize condensation in that area. The high fan will help prevent freeze ups (which will overwhelm the AC's drain capability as they melt) and keep large amounts of condensation from pooling.

-jamie

Yup understand.  The last time it leaked I had been running the AC's minimally, I was in norther Michigan so only ran a little while.  But the next day I drove through really bad rain storms for ~3-4 hours, that's when I found the leak. 

I recently just replaced the gaskets and drain pans on the coach and checked the drain tubes, which were clear.  But I understand about the condensation.  I did check the rear, let it run for a day and looked for any signs of leaking, water poured out from under the motorhome where the tube exists, I didn't see any evidence inside.  But know that it can happen. 

At the top beltline where the back cap meets the roof looks suspect.  There is a definite hump where they blended the two together and the metal molding spanned across, any flexing of the body at all would compromise the seal.  It was the only place on the beltline that looked suspect and was directly above where the delamination started.  Even the metal molding was discolored all the way down the back edge where the water had run.  See picture  

I had recaulked this area a couple years ago but did not completely remove the old caulk.  I am doing that now around the entire coach, being able to work off a scaffold makes it a lot easier, last time it was on a ladder in gravel, took a good tumble as the feet sunk in.  

[jacwjames]

So I watched a video showing someone scrapping down a run in clear coat.  Looked simple enough but a relatively small area compared to what I was facing.  I did a search  and they do make/sell a razor scrapper, I checked local area and none anywhere to be found.  So I got creative and made a not so mini scrapper but it worked.  I took a scrap piece of 2X4 and cut a slot in it not quite as the height of a razor blade, drilled a hole in the end and mounted a razor blade in it.  I fine tuned the depth of scrap by adding pieces of tape to the 2X4, this was trial and error but it seemed to work pretty good and I could keep it flat & perpendicular to the surface.  So I used my home made scrapper until I got down close to the clear coat then switched to just using a razor blade.  I then switched to some 2000 grit paper and then used a polisher and some rubbing compound.  I'll get some 3000 grit paper and do a little more work on it.

There are a couple places that got through the paint but not bad considering what I was facing.   These spots would have come out with any method of removing the epoxy, it is what it is!!!!

I should be able to touch up the spots. 

Edited August 20, 2021 by jacwjames