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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/519-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Engine with number on it
Jim Bob
Engine with number on it
Frank McElroy
Coach Name Badges
Speerfamily
Coach Name Badges
JDCrow
Coach Name Badges
Ashton
Coach Name Badges
windsorbill06
Sliding Privacy Door Out of Track
bobdinsmore
Coach Name Badges
milly59
Electrical Issue
Dr4Film
Coach Name Badges
RVhorod
Coach Name Badges
JetAburner
Coach Name Badges
Mike Rizzo
Coach Name Badges
allphase8
Coach Name Badges
windsorbill06
Coach Name Badges
allphase8
Coach Name Badges
windsorbill06
Electrical Issue
Chuck B
Coach Name Badges
allphase8
Creating the Toad
JDCrow
Fuel gauge not working
Norman Austin
Fuel gauge not working
Jim Bob
Fuel gauge not working
cbr046
Fuel gauge not working
Fonman
Epoxy Oh NO
jacwjames
Fuel gauge not working
Norman Austin
Fuel gauge not working
Steven
Epoxy Oh NO
Seward G
Epoxy Oh NO
jacwjames
Epoxy Oh NO
Ivan K
Fuel gauge not working
IlliniCathy
Epoxy Oh NO
jacwjames
Epoxy Oh NO
Ivan K
Epoxy Oh NO
vito.a
Epoxy Oh NO
jacwjames
Norcold Part
bobstromain
Epoxy Oh NO
JDCrow
Creating the Toad
JDCrow
Epoxy Oh NO
jacwjames
Fuel gauge not working
Norman Austin
Epoxy Oh NO
Jim Bob
Epoxy Oh NO
jacwjames
Epoxy Oh NO
Chargerman
Fuel gauge not working
Gary Cole
Norcold Part
klcdenver

New Posts

Engine with number on it
Jim Bob

Thanks Frank,  I've not heard of that before.  That would be something that Cummins can provide?  Seems like an electronic version would be easier if possible. I am looking for a pre DPF coach... something in the 2004 to 2007 Dynasty, Executive or Signature line.  I have no experience at all with them, but I've heard great things about the Detroit engines that you occasionally see in a Executive or Signature.


Engine with number on it
Frank McElroy

Cummins or any shop that has the Cummins Insite software can provide this type of report.  Have the shop connect to the engine ECM and then in the software they can generate a print file.  Just ask them to select ALL parameters when generating the print file to get a complete report.


Coach Name Badges
Speerfamily

2004 Windsor here...definitely interested!!

Sean

stkspeer@gmail.com 


Coach Name Badges
JDCrow

02 Dip, would love to update 


Coach Name Badges
Ashton

03 Dynasy interested !


Awning rubber seal needs replacement.
pwhittle

I also think this edge flap seal would work:

Sponge Rubber Flap Seal | .250" Bottom Width - Flaps & Corner Sections - Trim-Lok (trimlok.com)

I have requested samples from Tri-Mark for this and the one in the previous post.

I have only found these two available in 100ft lengths for around $250, which is much less than $6/foot quoted above from Girard. If they work out, I would be happy to split the cost with others. We only need approximately 25ft to reseal the main awning and the door awning on our 2005 Monaco Signature, so looking for 3 others with similar needs.


ScanGauge D not working on engine/transmission diagnostic port
pwhittle

Thanks for the pointer @Ivan K I checked the 1A fused marked DGN PWR and found it was blown.  I replaced it and the ScanGauge D started working again.

Thanks also to ScanGauge who provided unquestioning support for a product that was nearing the end of a long warranty period.

One piece of data I would really like to display on this is the transmission gear selected. It is available on the Aladdin, and is not a standard field on the ScanGauge D, so I will scan the PID data again and check with ScanGauge to see if it is available as a X-Gauge.

Paul


Coach Name Badges
windsorbill06

Very interesting on the Dynasty interest.  Thanks to you guys for replying. 

Keep the comments coming.  

 

Can you older guys, (1990's up to about 2002-3 year coaches), INCLUDING DYNASTY OWNERS, please email me a picture of your Badge with a tape measure in it for size reference???  I want to be sure Monaco didn't change something over the years.  

 

I posted my email in the original post.  

 

thanks!!


Sliding Privacy Door Out of Track
bobdinsmore

I had a same/similar problem where the rear roller went off the back end of the track. I removed the valance, screwed a 2"x2" block to the wall to keep it from rolling off the end. A pain in the neck job but not too bad.


Coach Name Badges
milly59

2013 diplomat 43 interested


Electrical Issue
Dr4Film
13 hours ago, Martinvz said:

Also mentioned are the relays and if these are normally open or closed.  From my understanding, the A/C relays are normally closed so that power is provided to the AC units. These are turned on and off by the thermostat (and not the EMS). There is an RJ45 cable to the from A/C and an additional one from the front to the rear A/C.

Martin,

The thermostat AFAIK is NOT connected to the Intellitec Control Board as Monaco chose not to control the AC's by using 12 VDC which is what the AC Thermostat uses for power. Monaco chose to use the 120 VAC relays on the control board to shed the AC's off and on. Hence the reason that they fail prematurely as they cannot handle the amp load which the AC draws through the relay.

I guess you are saying that the two Intellitec Relays for the front and rear AC's are NC until the control board decides to shed the device. To me that would make common sense and it would be far better if they did that with all four relays. That way the coils are not energized ALL the time until which time they need to be shed and the coil then opens the relay.

If the coils are powered ALL the time to keep them closed that to me seems like a waste of power and energy plus it is also a reason for failure.


Coach Name Badges
RVhorod

'00 Dynasty, very interested.


Coach Name Badges
JetAburner

'99 Windsor

Very interested

Will get some pics with tape measure next trip to storage.

20210730_200018.jpg


Coach Name Badges
Mike Rizzo

2005 Dynasty

Very Interested

Mike

2005 Dynasty w/ Wrangler in Tow


Coach Name Badges
allphase8

Count me in

2006 Camelot.

Actually have one of the smaller ones for the front cap


Coach Name Badges
windsorbill06
15 minutes ago, allphase8 said:

Count me in

2006 Camelot.

Actually have one of the smaller ones for the front cap

You have a smaller name badge or a roadmaster logo on the front cap?  I haven't seen the name badges on the front cap....

46 minutes ago, JetAburner said:

'99 Windsor

Very interested

Will get some pics with tape measure next trip to storage.

20210730_200018.jpg

I'd be real interested in seeing your name badge.  I can't quite zoom in enough to see yours clearly here, but It almost looks like you have the Roadmaster logo next to it.  


Coach Name Badges
allphase8

Don't have them with me but as I recall a Camelot on the front cap appx 9.5" and a Camelot on the rear cap about 10.5"

What about the M logo on the Gen door?

Sorry it is an M logo front and back.  Dimensions are appx correct


Coach Name Badges
windsorbill06
10 minutes ago, allphase8 said:

Don't have them with me but as I recall a Camelot on the front cap appx 9.5" and a Camelot on the rear cap about 10.5"

What about the M logo on the Gen door?

Sorry it is an M logo front and back.  Dimensions are appx correct

you are correct about the size, 9.5 front and 10" rear.  Lots of people don't realize they are different.  But for the purpose of this thread we're only talking about the "Name Badges" .   Diplomat, Camelot, Windsor.    Maybe dynasty if we get enough interest. 


Electrical Issue
Chuck B

FWIW, the flat telephone type ribbon cable that is used for a data cable is subject to a lot of crosstalk from such devices a florescent light ballasts.  I rewired my coach using 4 wire twisted cable.  That removed 99% of all my problems.  

Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Coach Name Badges
allphase8

Got it, mine has 3 Right Side, Left Side, Rear 

Appx dimensions 13"x6"


Creating the Toad
JDCrow

I thought I’d put together a thread on making the wife’s rig our toad. Ask questions, offer advice, I can handle a little nit-pick as well. 
 

Bought the truck in Dec 2019, had zero idea we’d ever have a MH that would need rig to tow. My wife has always wanted a Raptor, we went to go buy a Silver one, and ended up with blue.

Everyone knows that they are off road beasts, but, with the squishy ride comes a pathetic 1200 lbs payload. Put our family in it, and some day travel gear and payload is halved. I am upgrading the rear suspension, front suspension and adding a front bumper to allow it to be flat towed. 

38C85076-C9DC-4531-9851-37EB6B727436.jpeg

Starting rear suspension and tearing off front

AB95BAC6-9109-43EF-BBA7-154790DF1E4C.jpeg

EB0B0305-2BBB-47B6-978B-A35DCFED45E8.jpeg


Fuel gauge not working
Norman Austin

Holiday Rambler Neptune 2004

I had a mechanic check why my fuel gauge isn't working. He says that both the sender and the gauge in the dash are bad.

Does anyone know where I can find a sender unit and possibly a replacement gauge? I need the sender unit but I could fit an after market gauge if necessary.

 

Also the generator doesn't start though it did start when I bought the coach last month. I wonder if it uses a separate battery from the chassis batteries. I'm a total newbie trying to find out the ins and outs of this machine.

 

Thanks guys.

Norman

IMG_20210728_155034809_HDR.jpg


Fuel gauge not working
Jim Bob

regarding the genset, it should use the chassis batteries for starting.  No prior experience with the fuel gauge issue.  Make sure you have at least a third tank of fuel as it will have a shut off so you can not run the tank dry while camping with the genset running.  More info on what the generator is doing would help.  turns over but does not start.  starts but quits, etc, etc.


Fuel gauge not working
cbr046

I don't know if you get a fault code for a non-starting unit but the light in the generator switch will blink for any fault codes, then look in the manual to troubleshoot.  There's 2 sets of blinks giving you a 2 digit fault code.  Details are in the manual.

As for the fuel gauge and sending unit . . . . I might get a second opinion.  What are the odds both would go bad at the same time?

- bob


Fuel gauge not working
Fonman

Does the fuel gauge stay past full when you turn the key off?


Epoxy Oh NO
jacwjames

I've been working on repairing an area of delamination, about 4'X6', passenger side from the bedroom window back.  I had a leak at the belt line, I think it was where the rear cap met the roof, there is a hump there and the beltline didn't have a good seal. 

Anyway, I've removed the beltline, dryer vent, bedroom window and awning supports.  I was able to get epoxy into the void from the dryer vent opening and window, initially using a large syringe with tubing attached letting gravity help.  The last pour was up hill so I rigged up an injection rod using copper tubing, compression fittings, a heavy plastic bottler and a blow gun.  I'd fill the bottle, attach it to the tube that was already in place, turn the bottle upside down, inject air in pulses and it would push the epoxy out.  I had rigged up a form using a piece of smooth plywood and then 2X6 &10's laid horizontal, and then after injecting the epoxy I'd put pressure on the whole thing using the side of my shop as a place to wedge against.  I started low, and did 3 smaller pours and then the last one was all up hill . 

I had worked with epoxy before and tried to anticiapte where it may flow out of .  I caulked the 2 electrical panels below, there was a large gap there.  I taped all the seams.  My last pour I silconed the dryer vent to try and prevent any coming out there.  there was some leaking on the inside down the engine compartment back wall but no way to stop that.  What I failed to do was plug the holes the dryer vent was attached to the side of the motorhome with.  Epoxy ran out there and I have a ~6"X12" area of dried epoxy. The epoxy is a West System 105 & 206 slow cure hardener.   Is there any way to get this off without damaging the paint, although I'm can sand it off and repaint I'd rather not.

Here are some pictures of the project, with the last one being the epoxy problem OH NO!!!!

IMG_3382.JPG

IMG_3354.JPG

IMG_3356.JPG

IMG_3387.JPG

Repaired Delam.jpg

Epoxy on side of motorhome.jpg


Fuel gauge not working
Norman Austin

Yes, the photo of the fuel gauge above was taken with the engine off. It doesn't move from that position at all. The guy who sold me the MH said that sometimes it works, but since I have had it there has been no change.

Re the generator not starting, I turned on the ignition and pressed the lower end of the button a few times with no reaction, then it blinked 3 times and went off. When I press the top part of the button to start, nothing at all happens.


Fuel gauge not working
Steven

I had the same problem with my fuel gauge. The tech told me my gauge and sender were bad and needed replacement. I changed the sender only and that corrected the problem. fuel gauge reads perfectly.

Steve.

2004 Monaco Windsor 40DST


Epoxy Oh NO
Seward G

I'm impressed by what you accomplished!


Epoxy Oh NO
jacwjames

I was also until I pulled the plastic off from around the vent and saw the I had sprung a leak. 

But no point crying over spilled milk, I have to figure out a way to get the epoxy off or fix & paint it. 


Epoxy Oh NO
Ivan K

You probably know that there are epoxy removers but I have no idea what it would do to the paint... if it is cured hard, you could try carefully scraping it off with a razor blade but it would be a lot of work on a large area. No less than 90 degree angle and tape off the blade corners. That's how clearcoat runs are successfully removed, then buffed out.

Good job BTW.


Fuel gauge not working
IlliniCathy

We just replaced our fuel sensor.  Here is a link.  http://www.centroidproducts.com/   


Epoxy Oh NO
jacwjames
14 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

You probably know that there are epoxy removers but I have no idea what it would do to the paint... if it is cured hard, you could try carefully scraping it off with a razor blade but it would be a lot of work on a large area. No less than 90 degree angle and tape off the blade corners. That's how clearcoat runs are successfully removed, then buffed out.

Good job BTW.

So your saying hold the razor blade perpendicular to the surface and scrap? 


Help Please! Rear Run Bay electrical schematic GONE!
hopcollin

Been a long while since I was on this forum, twice cancer survivor Thanx to the Mayo Clinic in Jacksonville Fl. Robotic lung cancer surgery in 2018, and radiation treatments for prostate cancer in 2019. Praise the Lord can get back on the road! My 1994  Monaco Dynasty 38" center door we call the "Tumbleweed" is having dash a/c issues, like it doesn't work at all, Front Run Bay all fuses good but thought that there were fuses or relays in the Rear Run Bay also, unfortunately have lost that schematic. Can anybody point me to or  provide for me a copy of that Rear Run Bay schematic for a 1994 Dynasty? Many thanx in advance, Hop and Marja Collin, 94 Dynasty pushed along by a 2009 Honda Fit


Epoxy Oh NO
Ivan K
1 minute ago, jacwjames said:

So your saying hold the razor blade perpendicular to the surface and scrap? 

At a right angle so you don't cut into it, yes, just scrape it off in tiny layers. It needs to be cured hard otherwise it will just roll and smear around. Well, that's what it would do with a clearcoat and may not be a problem in your case unless the paint softened. This is why we don't try to fix a clearcoat for a week at least.


Epoxy Oh NO
vito.a

Great job!  Looks like a mad scientist work shop.  

Have you tried scraping the excess epoxy?


Epoxy Oh NO
jacwjames

Not as Ivan described  but that will be my next move.  

 

I've been working on this for ~2 weeks, taking it slow.  Initially I was using fast cure hardener but I switched to slow cure to give me more time to work with it.  The first pour I did to seal the bottom seams which mostly worked.  I then did a couple pours using gravity.  The last part I knew was going to be a challenge since I could gravity feed it so I came up with injection method.  The copper tubing was rigid enough to push in place and move it around.  I had the wire braided hose with the compression fitting on one end which worked out great.  I was concerned about using air pressure so started out with 20 psi in short bursts and then upped it to 30 psi which pushed it pretty good and then at the end I could hear it spraying.  Seems like it got pretty good coverage. 

In my previous life I was know to come up with some pretty crazy ideas which most of the time worked. 


Norcold Part
bobstromain

I am in need of a new High Temperature Switch that is part of Norcold's Safety Re call.   Mine has never tripped.  It started intermittently  dropping the 12 Volts just for a split second then right back on. This stops the 12 volts from getting to the board for a split second resulting in shutting the fridg down for a few seconds.  Never has to be reset.  This happens even when you first turn it on and all the pipes are cold so it is not due to overheating and it continues throughout the operation of the unit.  I bypassed the  switch and every thing runs perfect.  In order to get a new one I must go to a shop they run a test and fill out forms then Norcold sells them the part.   Earliest appointment available end of October .    The numbers on this switch are 634677 Rev B   Does any one who has converted to residential Happen to have this switch?  I saw only one on internet that looks like mine but has different numbers and Rev   Any comments are appreciated  

Bob St. Romain

04 Windsor


Epoxy Oh NO
JDCrow

Sooooo cool. This is awesome! 


Creating the Toad
JDCrow

Here’s some of the parts 

Rear leafs

Front Coil over collars 

Front bumper with attach points for tow bar

FC0F5AC3-FF33-4D49-A4DD-BDDE3392046F.jpeg

FF1A2FA3-F9EA-4AFF-8E70-34B09A96CE59.jpeg

1E2C2E0C-0CBF-40D7-B009-9441E6220563.jpeg

D87DBC1C-B8D6-493D-BD01-D50927A88E9F.jpeg


Epoxy Oh NO
jacwjames

Thanks   I was nervous when I started this but not many options when you have delamination, either you fix it or you don't. 

Not going to lie though, I know a guy who use to be the shop foreman for TN RV, a large repair facility.  I asked him about what I planned to do and he actually came over with one of his techs to look.  They had never tried what I described I was going to do but thought it might work.  Glad when something works out. 

I'll fix the epoxy problem one way or another. 


Fuel gauge not working
Norman Austin

Thanks everyone for your helpful advice, and thank you Cathy for the fuel sensor link.

 

Norman


Epoxy Oh NO
Jim Bob

I'm in East TN also, when you get real good at this, You can do mine too.  LOL.  I'm in the camp of don't fix it.  I certainly fixed the leaks, but as far as the sides...  does not bother me at all.  On a 1995 model there is always something to work on.

 


Help Please! Rear Run Bay electrical schematic GONE!
cbr046

Have you checked AC system pressure?  Even without the compressor kicking in, which it won't if refrigerant is low enough, there should be xx psi in the system.  I don't know xx value.

- bob

 


Help Please! Rear Run Bay electrical schematic GONE!
Jim Bob

Congrats on the CA battle!!!  I'd love to have the schematics for my 95 also, if they are out there.  Does everyone name their coach?  I thought I was an odd ball for calling her Roxy.


Epoxy Oh NO
jacwjames

You got that right, I took a 5 week trip and have been working on the coach +3 weeks to get it ready for the next trip. 

I had a leak during the trip but the delamination was from a previous leak in the same area.  I am actually removing all the caulk from the belt line and then will use Gelcel to reseal.  Also had to redo the gutter on the front windshield.  Had an electrical problem which I thought was the inverter but was actually one circuit, it would not let the generator run but the invert worked fine with it and it didn't kick the GFCI.  With this I made the decision to install a small secondary inverter to run the refrigerator and/or help charge batteries off generator.  Couple other minor problems I need to address.

It never seems to end.


Epoxy Oh NO
Chargerman

Maybe try seeing if the epoxy manufacturer has a tech line and ask them for suggestions 


Fuel gauge not working
Gary Cole

Norman I'm somewhat skeptical when a tech  decides two components have failed. If you have the Centroid level sensor then I believe that it will be the capacitance variety. Your tech might not be aware of that. Those are difficult to troubleshoot in the traditional manner using a multimeter. The fuel level gauge is of the usual resistance type, 240 ohms empty, 33 ohms full and can be checked by using  resistors in a circuit to ground. 

Interesting bio. Good luck.


Norcold Part
klcdenver

I may have it will check in the morning.

Kenneth


Help Please! Rear Run Bay electrical schematic GONE!
rpasetto

The files section has two wiring files which, may be close to your '94 Dynasty.  Hope these help. 

Congrats on your battle with Ca!  Blessings and safe and healthy travels.

 

 


Epoxy Oh NO
rpasetto

Outstanding work, Jim.


Fuel gauge not working
Norman Austin

Thank you Gary. I forwarded your advice to the tech.

 

Norman


Fuel gauge not working
rpasetto

+1 on contacting Centroid; they are very helpful. 

As a quick test you can try disconnecting the wires to the fuel sending unit.


Epoxy Oh NO
Jim Bob
1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

You got that right, I took a 5 week trip and have been working on the coach +3 weeks to get it ready for the next trip. 

I had a leak during the trip but the delamination was from a previous leak in the same area.  I am actually removing all the caulk from the belt line and then will use Gelcel to reseal.  Also had to redo the gutter on the front windshield.  Had an electrical problem which I thought was the inverter but was actually one circuit, it would not let the generator run but the invert worked fine with it and it didn't kick the GFCI.  With this I made the decision to install a small secondary inverter to run the refrigerator and/or help charge batteries off generator.  Couple other minor problems I need to address.

It never seems to end.

Let me know if you need another set of hands.  I'm in West Knoxville so can't be to far from you.  I love the phrase that the only thing working 100% of the time on an RV is the owner.


Epoxy Oh NO
Ray Davis

Nice job Jim.     I don't envy the job of getting the epoxy off but you can do it.  Check into some Exacto knife blades, they may come in handy.

I agree with Ivan,  you need to do something about the corner points on the razor blades.   Grind them off, tape them, or something or they will eventually dig in.

I'm curious,  did you work from the window opening by pulling the fiberglass and injecting glue from there?   Or did you take the fiberglass loose at the belt lines?

Did you need to dry moisture from the area inside the wall,  and how did you go about drying it?


Epoxy Oh NO
jacwjames
5 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

Nice job Jim.     I don't envy the job of getting the epoxy off but you can do it.  Check into some Exacto knife blades, they may come in handy.

I agree with Ivan,  you need to do something about the corner points on the razor blades.   Grind them off, tape them, or something or they will eventually dig in.

I'm curious,  did you work from the window opening by pulling the fiberglass and injecting glue from there?   Or did you take the fiberglass loose at the belt lines?

Did you need to dry moisture from the area inside the wall,  and how did you go about drying it?

I pulled the beltline off hoping I might gain access to inject/place the epoxy but the way mine was constructed the wall is covered all the way around by the roof, rear, and bottom pieces and there was no way to gain access.  Most of the screws along the back and bottom were rusted off.   I removed all the metal molding that the beltline attached to .  Luckily I taped all the bottom portion and only had a minimal amount of epoxy leak out and it was on tape so easy to pull off. 

I was able to pull the fiberglass panel out far enough to gain access.  I did this at both the window and dryer vent hole. 

Initially I taped clear tubing to a  long dowel and/or flat 48" metal straight edge, that way I could get the tubing placed where it needed to be.  I bought some 150 ml syringes and used these on the lower pours.  Pushing the epoxy through the tubing with the syringes was not an easy task.   I tried to use smaller tubing but too hard to push resin through it.  I then started to use the copper tubing, this worked very well and I could rig up drink bottles to initially gravity feed the epoxy and in the end using air to inject the resin. 

Not sure how wet/moist the inside of the wall was, the parts I could see were dry.  I did have a couple pieces of the wood come off but was able to pull them out, didn't want them loose as they would cause bulges etc.

Good idea on grinding a radius on the corners of the razor blades.  As of now that seems to be the best approach.  Luckily I don't have that large of area and I can practice on the part that will be covered by the dryer vent. 


Creating the Toad
windsorbill06

Nice truck.   Over on IRV2, there is a guy, "DutchstarDon" that has a raptor as a towd.   As I recall, he really tricked out the front of it and you can't see any  (or very little) of the tow hardware/plugs/etc.  Even his front license plate is hinged, which covers up the pigtail plug.  Wish I had pictures to post.


Creating the Toad
JDCrow
5 minutes ago, windsorbill06 said:

Nice truck.   Over on IRV2, there is a guy, "DutchstarDon" that has a raptor as a towd.   As I recall, he really tricked out the front of it and you can't see any  (or very little) of the tow hardware/plugs/etc.  Even his front license plate is hinged, which covers up the pigtail plug.  Wish I had pictures to post.

I’ll look over there. I’m not a member on that forum. I am on a few forums that keep me occupied. Had to ditch a few of them because people were just getting mean. To much my way or the Highway crap. 


Obituary
Darren A.

Prayers for entire family.


Epoxy Oh NO
Ray Davis

I guess the fiberglass is bonded to a thin wood veneer,  I have read that some walls are made that way.    Did the veneer stay attached to something and separate from the fiberglass?  Is that where you injected the glue,  between the fiberglass and veneer.    The wood pieces you pulled out,  were they pieces of veneer?    The info about not being able to pull the fiberglass away even with the beltline removed is very good info since at first glance that seems like the way you would go about it.          Thanks for posting and answering questions.


Epoxy Oh NO
jacwjames

Most of the wood laminate stuck to the fiberglass, some stuck to the all. 

When I pulled the beltline and aluminum molding I was hoping that would give me access, it didn't.

But there's always more then one way to skin a cat, just had to figure it out.  Once I got into it I was beyond the point of turning back.  Lost some sleep trying to figure out way of getting the epoxy into the wall.  The last thing I tried was actually the best, quick, less messy.  I could move the copper tubing between mixes to get better coverage.  

BTW, I used about 1 gallon of the West Systems epoxy all together, most in the wall, some spilled, leaked.  Not sure what happen on one batch but it got very hot very fast and I had to abort!!!!


Epoxy Oh NO
Ray Davis

Ok, so most of the gluing was the wood to something behind it.      What was that something?    Sometimes I can see the wall frame work in the morning dew.     Is that framing something you had to contend with?

Sorry for asking so many questions


Creating the Toad
Nevada Rob

Do some research on burning (on Fire) transmissions in ford trucks that are flat towed. I have two different friends that flat towed a F150 and one had a Raptor. Both were 4x4 with flat tow mode. The problem is the truck slips back into gear or other issue causing a total loss on the trans. I have a 2019 F150 4x4 and 2021 F250 4x4. Both with flat tow capabilities. I trailer the trucks. Just a thought. 


Fuel gauge not working
Harvey Babb

A tip that may apply. some models the generator will not run if fuel is below 1/2 tank. 

My fuel gauge was intermittent and I finally found a broken ground wire on the sending unit.

 

 


Fuel gauge not working
Norman Austin

Thanks Harvey. I followed Bob's advice and found the fault code to be 24 which corresponds to a sensor circuit being either open or shorted. I've informed my mechanic and will take the RV back to him next week to check. I have the wiring diagram so we should be able to find out the cause.

RE fuel level, I don't want to put any more fuel in it until we've sorted the fuel tank sender out. I don't know what it involves to replace that but I suspect that removing the old sensor from a full fuel tank would be problematic.


Epoxy Oh NO
Cubflyer

Jim,

You always seem to be one project ahead of me!  My fiberglass below the drivers window is delaminated, badly, the wood paneling behind it is totally rotted away.  I have been thinking of doing the same kind of thing (use a piece of plywood as a form) and inject expanding foam behind the fiberglass hoping it would fill the void and create a firm surface attached to the fiberglass.  I never considered epoxy (I am familiar with West Systems product) and now I'm thinking about it... 

Great post! Thanks!

Ken 


Epoxy Oh NO
jacwjames

When I spread the fiberglass from the window frame I did see a piece of stryofoam type material that appeared to be loose/moving.  

So I think the epoxy migrated to all the voids, hopefully adhering to anything and everything and when I pressed the fiberglass panel to the side of the motorhome it all bonded together.  Time will tell if the repair worked. 

The one thing I know is that epoxy will pretty much flow everywhere before it becomes viscous and sets up.  When I was building doors for my house I used epoxy to stiffen everything up.  I built 13 doors doors out of slabs of Sassafras.  Most of the slabs were good, some not so much.  So I'd tape the bottom side up and pour epoxy into any cracks and voids.  One door was ~44" wide and was pretty weak.  Did the epoxy and the door stiffened right up.  Here's a picture of on of the larger doors.

20181128_124102.jpg

3 minutes ago, Cubflyer said:

Jim,

You always seem to be one project ahead of me!  My fiberglass below the drivers window is delaminated, badly, the wood paneling behind it is totally rotted away.  I have been thinking of doing the same kind of thing (use a piece of plywood as a form) and inject expanding foam behind the fiberglass hoping it would fill the void and create a firm surface attached to the fiberglass.  I never considered epoxy (I am familiar with West Systems product) and now I'm thinking about it... 

Great post! Thanks!

Ken 

I was considering using the Clear Gorilla glue but it sets up pretty fast. 

The West System slow cure hardener worked pretty good. 

In your case if you remove the window you should be able to inject the epoxy form above. 

When I took the beltline off and removed the aluminum molding.  I then mounted a piece of 2X4 using some of these screws.  https://www.lowes.com/pd/Teks-12-x-2-3-4-in-Phillips-Drive-Sheet-Metal-Screws-40-Count/3316526.

I could rest the plywood on this and then use 2X6/10 pieces top push against these horizontally.  Then another 2X4 vertical, using 2.5" screws to make sure I didn't screw into the fiberglass.  Used C-Clamps at the top to pull the vertical 2X4 pieces tight  to the horizontal pieces and plywood.  You can see this in a couple of the pictures. 


Creating the Toad
Rikadoo

Hey i thought i was runnin thru tall grass pullin my little F-150… man that toad has some Lbs on it!!! Is your MH a DP? I really like the idea though cause either i pull my pu to get around town or i tow our can-am X3 for fun your gonna have the best of both👍 
Curious though if you wanted silver an got blue was it a inventory issue or???


Creating the Toad
JDCrow
37 minutes ago, Nevada Rob said:

Do some research on burning (on Fire) transmissions in ford trucks that are flat towed. I have two different friends that flat towed a F150 and one had a Raptor. Both were 4x4 with flat tow mode. The problem is the truck slips back into gear or other issue causing a total loss on the trans. I have a 2019 F150 4x4 and 2021 F250 4x4. Both with flat tow capabilities. I trailer the trucks. Just a thought. 

All good, I’ll take a look. But honestly it might  be like most internet stuff, always hear the bad. No one hardly ever goes online to report that they had Miles of trouble free anything these days.

So you have 2 friends and both their rides caught in fire while being flat towed?  

17 minutes ago, Rikadoo said:

Hey i thought i was runnin thru tall grass pullin my little F-150… man that toad has some Lbs on it!!! Is your MH a DP? I really like the idea though cause either i pull my pu to get around town or i tow our can-am X3 for fun your gonna have the best of both👍 
Curious though if you wanted silver an got blue was it a inventory issue or???

Wanted Silver, saw the Blue and fell in love. 

Yeah the Dip is a DP ISC 330 with 10k towing 

 

55 minutes ago, Nevada Rob said:

Do some research on burning (on Fire) transmissions in ford trucks that are flat towed. I have two different friends that flat towed a F150 and one had a Raptor. Both were 4x4 with flat tow mode. The problem is the truck slips back into gear or other issue causing a total loss on the trans. I have a 2019 F150 4x4 and 2021 F250 4x4. Both with flat tow capabilities. I trailer the trucks. Just a thought. 

Just for kicks found this

 

https://ford.oemdtc.com/4385/difficulty-enabling-neutral-tow-mode-2019-ford-f-150

 


Norcold Part
Chuck B

If my memory serves me correct, there were 5 revisions to that switch.  Each revision lowered the temperature the switch would activate.  That was done to keep the frig from catching fire.  The fire would start at the 120 vac wiring for the heaters where those wires entered the flu tube.  The higher temps would melt the insulation off the wires causing the bare wires to short out against the metal conduit going into the flu tube.  

The fix was to use a bake lite type housing that would not conduct the 120 vac current when it shorted out due to the high heat.  The new housing along with the rev 5 was the final fix for the fire problem.  I will try to get the pictures to Frank M to post on the group.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor

Pictures now attached

 

110895.jpeg

110893.jpeg


Epoxy Oh NO
Ray Davis

Some time back on IRV2 an rv tech commented that they use sheet aluminum when repairing delamination.   Attempts to ask him more about it went unanswered.          Guess he figured he had said enough,  maybe too much.   Anyway using wood seems to be the cause of delam along with water water of course.

Not sure I understand about the 2x4 and the beltline,  but you have been great sharing your project with us.   I learned a lot,  if I can remember it.😏

Edit----Went back and looked at the pictures again and now I understand about the 2x4


Epoxy Oh NO
Cubflyer

I used the Clear Gorilla glue to bond .040 301 Stainless Steel plates to the bottom of my bedroom slide where the rollers were starting to cut into the fiberglass bottom.  Worked great and now the slide travels in and out with lots less (fingernails on a chalkboard) sounds..... 

Good stuff, but something that flows and slow curing makes sense for the sidewall project.... 

We have another 4 week SLC/DEN trip to do, then it's flooring and delam project.... like someone said (I love it !):   'The only thing that always works on a motorhome is the OWNER'...

Ken


Epoxy Oh NO
jacwjames
2 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

Not sure I understand about the 2x4 and the beltline,  but you have been great sharing your project with us.   I learned a lot,  if I can remember it.😏

The 2X4's along the beltline simply gave me a shelf to work off off and then a mechanism to draw the vertical pieces tight to the side of the motorhome.  I figured out how to do it as I moved through the project.  When I moved up for the last injection I left the bottom 2X4 to attach support to.  If you look at the pictures it may help explain how I did it.


Epoxy Oh NO
Ray Davis

Got it,  thanks a million.


Creating the Toad
Nevada Rob

I did have trouble with my 2019 F150. It did not go into flat tow mode. My 2021 seems to go into just fine. One friend had smoke pouring from the trans. The other guy who is very mechanical and very by the book/instructions. He towed his Raptor for about a year on different trips with no issues.  Then one trip about 300 miles into the trip something went south and self destructed the trans. He had to have it taken in on a flatbed. I don't trust the electronics. 


LP Switch, must be going blind, Scepter
ok-rver

New to us 2004 HR Scepter. Familiar with function of the LP switch as turned one on most every day on our boat. Remember seeing switches with light on many of the MHs we looked at. Purchased this MH 3 weeks ago and have been search ever since we got it.  My wife and I can not find the switch. Not on dash. not around stove or sink. There is a solenoid on the tank and we do have gas. just need to find switch. Any suggestion? I am sure we are looking over it.


Creating the Toad
windsorbill06

Here's a link that may be of interest.  Not a raptor, but a f150.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f85/damage-drivetrain-while-towing-f-150-a-549575.html

3 hours ago, JDCrow said:

I’ll look over there. I’m not a member on that forum. I am on a few forums that keep me occupied. Had to ditch a few of them because people were just getting mean. To much my way or the Highway crap. 

I totally understand.

You don't have to join the IRV2 to read the threads, just can't post.  But if you do join, it's free.


Fuel gauge not working
Gary Cole

Should add one thing regarding the fuel level sensor if it is a Centroid. The unit uses a solid state board to translate capacitance to resistance. Your mechanic should be careful to not short the output leads to ground. Would imagine that the senders are spendy.


LP Switch, must be going blind, Scepter
Cubflyer

My switch is outside, under/behind the "basement' door that gives access to the propane tank and fill port..... 2003 HR Endeavor... seems you are looking inside...

Ken 


Fuel gauge not working
Norman Austin

Thanks Gary. I passed that message on too.


Creating the Toad
Rikadoo

Hey JD, yeah the blue looks really nice. I would say that DP wont have any problems, i have a 2003 HR that has the Stinger kit on it, bought it used that way… im told it boosts hp to 350, works really nice in the sierra mtns, we take our toy out in the desert! Keep me up on how it does when your towing, that could be a game changer for a toad👍10F69D96-EF03-4FC2-8F3A-4D3DAB3AB341.thumb.jpeg.882649c4db0e24689da0b3f7e6cb9e41.jpeg


Generator quit running
ok-rver

My fuel gauge is acting up and not sure how low we got. 65 gal brought it up to almost full. Gen would start and shut down after 10 seconds or so. Read about the 1 min push of the "stop" on the button running the fuel pump which is easy to hear running. Run time went to maybe 20 seconds. After 3 or 4 times, gave up on this approach. Changing oil so pulled the driver side panel off. Only 216 hrs on 2004 generator but oil not changed for two plus years. the rubber line from the filter runs up to a banjo fitting on the injector pump. A small hex bleed bolt screws into the bolt that holds the banjo on. Used 1 gal water jug with 1/2 the top cut out leaving the handle to catch about a quart of diesel from the pump. Tightened up bleed and generator started up and ran for 15 minutes to warm up oil. Later loaded up both AC units and water heater at 30 amps and ran fine. 

I looked all thru the Onan manual for the location of the air filter. Not shown on the one view with the side covers off and most of the stuff labeled. I did find it in the schematic of the induction system.  from this, I determined it was at the passenger side lower down. Tucked up in the air inlet under the generator. Easy to get to while laying on your back.

I did an oil flush since it had been a while since changed. 3 oz Seafoam and ran no load for 15 minutes. When I removed the oil drain plug, lots of velocity as the oil hit the pan and splashed a lot. Re-installed plug and added 2.5 quarts of regular oil. ran 20 minutes. this time I used the cut off top water jug to catch the oil stream. No splashing. second batch of oil mixed with the cup of oil in the filter. It had picked up some dark stuff. Not sure if it was worth the expense to flush the system. Good for 150 hours till next oil change.


Creating the Toad
JDCrow
24 minutes ago, windsorbill06 said:

Here's a link that may be of interest.  Not a raptor, but a f150.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f85/damage-drivetrain-while-towing-f-150-a-549575.html

I totally understand.

You don't have to join the IRV2 to read the threads, just can't post.  But if you do join, it's free.

Thanks! We are going to make up a couple laminated sheets to have as check lists to make sure we follow all the procedures. It’s a bit Amazing how much more there is to check with just the coach, and throw a toad behind. Maybe I’m used to 5th wheels, but it does seem like a lot less to contend with 

3 minutes ago, Rikadoo said:

Hey JD, yeah the blue looks really nice. I would say that DP wont have any problems, i have a 2003 HR that has the Stinger kit on it, bought it used that way… im told it boosts hp to 350, works really nice in the sierra mtns, we take our toy out in the desert! Keep me up on how it does when your towing, that could be a game changer for a toad👍10F69D96-EF03-4FC2-8F3A-4D3DAB3AB341.thumb.jpeg.882649c4db0e24689da0b3f7e6cb9e41.jpeg

Will do. In AZ and ID you have the ultimate on/off roader 


Fuel gauge not working
IlliniCathy

We replaced our fuel sensor from the top of the tank.  There was a screw on lid in the middle of the coach between the pass thru compartments.  Pm us if you need more information.


Cracked windshield
Norman Austin

I have to replace the driver's side windshield as there is a large crack in it.

I'm currently in Ashland, Oregon. Does anyone have recommendation for windshield replacement in Southern Oregon, possibly Medford area?

It's for my 2004 Holiday Rambler Neptune. Also I need to get my wheels aligned and the tires checked.

Or is it best for me to drive 180 miles to Eugene and another 180 miles back?

(Sorry for the newbie question... it's a steep learning curve.)

Thanks,


Cracked windshield
Cubflyer

try coachglass.com  

 


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