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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/520-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Cracked windshield
RVhorod
Fuel gauge not working
Harvey Babb
Replacing Not old with residential
Bob Jones
Coach Name Badges
Jeff H
Electrical Issue
Ivylog
Replacing Not old with residential
Steven P
Epoxy Oh NO
OhReally
Engine with number on it
Dr4Film
Epoxy Oh NO
jacwjames
LP Switch, must be going blind, Scepter
Gary 05 AMB DST
Coach Name Badges
tlhurlbut
Engine with number on it
Dennis H
Replacing Not old with residential
Dennis H
Coach Name Badges
RNMCBR
Cut wire from steering column??
Cubflyer
Cut wire from steering column??
Dr4Film
Cut wire from steering column??
Cubflyer
Replacing Not old with residential
Bob Jones
Cut wire from steering column??
jcavataio5255
LP Switch, must be going blind, Scepter
Gary 05 AMB DST
Coach Name Badges
William
Epoxy Oh NO
jacwjames
Obituary
William
Reattach lower shower door brackets
fredelkamp
Norcold Part
klcdenver
Norcold Part
bobstromain
Norcold Part
klcdenver
Norcold Part
bobstromain
Cut wire from steering column??
Cubflyer
Engine ECU
rtmurley
Cut wire from steering column??
jcavataio5255
Fuel gauge not working
daveyjo
Cut wire from steering column??
Cubflyer

New Posts

Cracked windshield
RVhorod

Check in Junction City, there a number excellent RV repair facilities in the area. About 200 miles North of Ashland.


Fuel gauge not working
Harvey Babb
7 hours ago, Norman Austin said:

Thanks Harvey. I followed Bob's advice and found the fault code to be 24 which corresponds to a sensor circuit being either open or shorted. I've informed my mechanic and will take the RV back to him next week to check. I have the wiring diagram so we should be able to find out the cause.

RE fuel level, I don't want to put any more fuel in it until we've sorted the fuel tank sender out. I don't know what it involves to replace that but I suspect that removing the old sensor from a full fuel tank would be problematic.

Norman, I was actually suggesting that fixing the fuel sensor problem MIGHT also fix the generator start problem.

 


Replacing Not old with residential
Bob Jones
On 8/18/2021 at 6:41 AM, Kevin R said:

Check out Home Depot Frigidaire # FFHT1425VV fit in mine nicely all I had to do was make a small trim piece to fill the gap around it since it was a touch smaller than the old one but 13.9 Cubic Ft I believe.

fridge.jpg

I'm liking that fridge a LOT and I've been looking for some time. The one thing that puts me off of a Samsung RF18 is the amount of work required to install it. I have a 2000 Diplomat and it looks quite similar to yours. I have the furnace in the compartment underneath the fridge. Was it literally just replace the Norcold and fill the gaps? (Other than the obvious like disconnect and cap the propane etc). I can get that fridge locally too...and...what's bugging me about the Norcold is the amount of power it uses. Pretty sure it's costing me about $40 per month whereas that one you show costs $40 per year.....So if you're still out there, please confirm the fitment for me 🙂


Coach Name Badges
Jeff H

Diplomat, interested

 


LP Switch, must be going blind, Scepter
ncsteve

Same as above on our 04. On panel next to propane tank when you open compartment door.


Electrical Issue
Ivylog

Twisted wires do help to reject outside interference. Pretty sure, unlike 4 wire phone cables, the AC control cables reverse the wires, end to end.


Help Please! Rear Run Bay electrical schematic GONE!
dandick66

Congratulations on beating the cancer.  I can’t help with the wiring diagram, but like CBR046 said, if the pressure is low, the compressor won’t kick in.  Does your blower work?  If so, the problem may very well be low pressure.  It sounds like the coach hasn’t been used in 2-3 years and you probably have a leak. 
Since your coach is a 1994, you might still be using R12.  If that’s the case, you will need to take it to a shop because R12 is no longer available.  They will probably be able to do a R134 conversion.  If your system uses R 134, you can pick up a can of refrigerant with a hose and gauge at an auto parts store or Walmart for about $30.  It may not be enough refrigerant for the system, but it might be enough to get the compressor to kick in.  
Gd luck.

Dan D


Replacing Not old with residential
Steven P

@Bob Jones it's best to measure your current fridge and opening and then compare those measurements to the measurements of the fridge you desire.   Those dimensions are on the website where you want to buy the fridge.  Equally important is the air flow space requirements on the top and sides which is also listed. Most of us w the furnace underneath have used slotted steel braces and marine plywood to create a new, sturdy floor for the new fridge, so that may need to be done.  I had some rot and Mildew to fix too. 

20200909_084733.jpg

20200913_140638.jpg

20200913_150758.jpg


LP Switch, must be going blind, Scepter
ok-rver
1 hour ago, ncsteve said:

Same as above on our 04. On panel next to propane tank when you open compartment door.

Thanks, will check later today. 


Epoxy Oh NO
OhReally

jacwjames, good work on your repair but you might want to consider one more possible leak point in your coach.

If you have an AC in your bedroom it can produce a very large amount of condensation at times and it just might find its way to where you just repaired. If you run the bedroom AC at a very cold setting on an extremely hot day, you can produce condensation within the AC distribution box and maybe the ductwork. Best to always run bedroom AC on high fan and at minimum cooling to minimize condensation in that area. The high fan will help prevent freeze ups (which will overwhelm the AC's drain capability as they melt) and keep large amounts of condensation from pooling.

-jamie


Engine with number on it
Dr4Film
On 8/17/2021 at 9:35 AM, Dennis H said:

 How one fails to replace the Aqua Hot exhaust pipe is beyond my comprehension....Dennis

Dennis or any other member, here is my question.

On my trip north to New Hampshire in May I hit some pretty rough roads in MA and as a result my OEM Aqua-Hot Exhaust Pipe severed from the 90 degree AH pipe. I have the remaining section secured for travel but I need to find someplace that will install a new SS pipe and new hangers plus possible insulation wrap.

Where would I start looking for someone that would do that type of installation on the underside of my coach? I don't believe the typical auto muffler shop would have the equipment to work under the coach.


Epoxy Oh NO
jacwjames
2 minutes ago, OhReally said:

jacwjames, good work on your repair but you might want to consider one more possible leak point in your coach.

If you have an AC in your bedroom it can produce a very large amount of condensation at times and it just might find its way to where you just repaired. If you run the bedroom AC at a very cold setting on an extremely hot day, you can produce condensation within the AC distribution box and maybe the ductwork. Best to always run bedroom AC on high fan and at minimum cooling to minimize condensation in that area. The high fan will help prevent freeze ups (which will overwhelm the AC's drain capability as they melt) and keep large amounts of condensation from pooling.

-jamie

Yup understand.  The last time it leaked I had been running the AC's minimally, I was in norther Michigan so only ran a little while.  But the next day I drove through really bad rain storms for ~3-4 hours, that's when I found the leak. 

I recently just replaced the gaskets and drain pans on the coach and checked the drain tubes, which were clear.  But I understand about the condensation.  I did check the rear, let it run for a day and looked for any signs of leaking, water poured out from under the motorhome where the tube exists, I didn't see any evidence inside.  But know that it can happen. 

At the top beltline where the back cap meets the roof looks suspect.  There is a definite hump where they blended the two together and the metal molding spanned across, any flexing of the body at all would compromise the seal.  It was the only place on the beltline that looked suspect and was directly above where the delamination started.  Even the metal molding was discolored all the way down the back edge where the water had run.  See picture  

I had recaulked this area a couple years ago but did not completely remove the old caulk.  I am doing that now around the entire coach, being able to work off a scaffold makes it a lot easier, last time it was on a ladder in gravel, took a good tumble as the feet sunk in.  

Belt mold.jpg


LP Switch, must be going blind, Scepter
Gary 05 AMB DST

LP switch? I just turn the valve open or close.  Could someone post a photo. Curious.

Gary 05 AMB DST


Coach Name Badges
tlhurlbut

2005 Camelot, very interested.  Would like 2 cap Monaco emblem and  2 Camelot name emblems on front sides of coach.  Thanks for the information and effort.  

 

Terry H

2005 Camelot


Engine with number on it
Dennis H

Richard, any muffler shop, especially in a smaller town will be able to fix you up. The shops in the larger, metro areas are "too big" and only look for the easy fixes. JMHO. The smaller towns might not have the fancy building but they will have the worker with the knowledge to do the repair. ..Dennis


LP Switch, must be going blind, Scepter
ok-rver

This is my solenoid valve off LP tank going to 2 stage regulator and on to steel pipe for distribution thru MH. Solenoid valve has a manual shutoff valve built into its base. on my MH, very difficult to get access to as tank is turned across the MH. I am going to add a tee in this area to give me a "high" pressure feed to grill and a second port for extended stay external tank. Will look under access panel later today for electrical switch that feeds this solenoid valve. also wondering if house disconnect switch at door turns off power to LP solenoid switch.


Replacing Not old with residential
Dennis H

I installed the Samsung myself in the campground. Took me a few days because I was working by myself but it was a relatively easy install. See the link below for steps and pics of the installation process....Dennis      https://executive45pbq.blogspot.com/2014/06/samsung-refrigerator-install.html

IMG_5335.JPG

 


Coach Name Badges
RNMCBR

07 Diplomat, yes interested.


LP Switch, must be going blind, Scepter
Cubflyer

According to my manual (HR Endeavor) the only "switch" that controls the electric LP shutoff valve is the switch near the tank outside the coach with the red light next to it. 

That said, IF power was cut-off to that switch (by way of the 'house disconnect switch at the door') it would make sense that the valve would cut off.

 


LP Switch, must be going blind, Scepter
ok-rver

solenoid at bottom of picture. manual valve located on bottom of valve elbow and not shown in this view. 

HRS propane supply.JPG


Cut wire from steering column??
Cubflyer

I had the cover around the steering column off and found this (obviously) cut wire... see photo

I have not noticed anything inop that is controlled by things on the steering "stalk"... turn signals, lights, etc

Anyone have any ideas?  I have not found a wiring diagram of the wires to the connector shown..

 

cutwiresteeringcolumn.jpg


Cut wire from steering column??
Dr4Film

When the wires are ALL white I generally see black lettering on the edge of the wire with its description.

 


Cut wire from steering column??
Cubflyer

I could not make out anything, but I can only see a small section... (as shown in the photo) I'll have to look harder!

It's either pin #1, #4, #5 or #8 of that connector....;-)

 


Onan tripping the DC Control Breaker at start up
Joe Lee

Hi All - I’m new to the group and appreciate the help I have gotten from reading the forum!

I have a ‘96 Crown Royale. My Kubota Oran generator is having trouble starting. At start up, the DC Control Breaker changes from the ‘On’ setting to the ‘Off’ position. So, the genny won’t start. If I hold the breaker in the ‘ON’ position, the genny will start and operate under a full load. 
 

any ideas how to correct this?

Thanks!

Joe

 


Onan tripping the DC Control Breaker at start up
ncsteve

I would put in a new breaker. Sounds like your is wore out. 


Replacing Not old with residential
Bob Jones

@Steven P - Nice job, and thanks for the post. While I could do it with the Samsung the issue for me is it's a lot bigger so it's also a lot more hassle getting it through the door. It's more $$ and I really don't need that much fridge as it's just me in here 🙂 Also, availability in my area for that fridge is a little harder. 

@Dennis H - that too is a really nice job! I have to keep my furnace as it gets cold up here in the winter (up to -7c or so). Nice to see the person behind your blog. I have read almost all of it from start to finish over several weeks. You did such a nice job on the posts that I felt like I didn't even have to go to any of those places !  🙂

My Norcold actually works very well. The freezer is typically -15c and the fridge is typically 1.8c or lower. And that's in the summer (ambient of 27-35c) and on setting #3 or 2 !!

I installed a row of fans across the cooling fins and then a second fan on the bottom blowing air up to the cooling fins (these are all inside fans). That is what got me the great cooling from the Norcold and I can have frozen ground beef in the freezer unit for more than a month and it will still be red when I pull it out. 

But...it's ~22 years old. Sooner or later the door hinges will go out. But I find the electrical cost for the motorhome per month to be quite high. Typically ~$100 per month. The Norcold draws 450-500 watts and I'm quite certain it's accounting for probably $40-$50 of that monthly bill. As such, it's a power pig. 

The Frigidaire Kevin listed above looks like it's more/less Plug 'N Play, it's cheap at ~$850 CAD ($600 USD) and....it apparently costs $40 per YEAR to operate. I am quite certain it costs the same to run for one year as my Norcold costs to run for one month......At that rate, it does not take long to recoup the costs of the fridge.

So, efficiency is really what I am after because, other that that, I love the Norcold now that I have tuned it up. If I set the Norcold to setting 5 it will easily freeze everything in the fridge compartment! I never use the gas side of it as I don't want to burn the unit down.

When I think about the efficiency of a modern fridge, such as Kevin's Frigidaire, I wonder if it even would cost $40 per year in my locale. Given that the rear of the fridge is more/less open to the ambient temperature, which up here is probably averaged out to 15c over a year, my guess is it might even be more efficient. The flip side is, the Norcold will run for about 12 hours on the inverter/batteries at 500 watts draw. I bet the Frigidaire would last days and probably closer to a week!

From the looks of it, the Frigidaire, in whatever their ambient temp testing is, will use a LOT less power.

332Kw per year = .90 Kw per day = .12c

 X 30 = $3.54 per month!! Assuming my math is correct that would be a massive savings in power to the extent that it would pay for itself in probably 1.5 years. I have a kill-o-watt, I'm going to hook it up to the Norcold and see exactly what it is using in power in a 24 hour period. 

 


Cut wire from steering column??
jcavataio5255

image.jpg


LP Switch, must be going blind, Scepter
Gary 05 AMB DST
3 hours ago, ok-rver said:

solenoid at bottom of picture. manual valve located on bottom of valve elbow and not shown in this view. 

HRS propane supply.JPG

Thanks Mike, glad I have a low tech 05 Ambassador. 

Gary 05 AMB DST


Coach Name Badges
William

03 windsor,  interested


Epoxy Oh NO
jacwjames

So I watched a video showing someone scrapping down a run in clear coat.  Looked simple enough but a relatively small area compared to what I was facing.  I did a search  and they do make/sell a razor scrapper, I checked local area and none anywhere to be found.  So I got creative and made a not so mini scrapper but it worked.  I took a scrap piece of 2X4 and cut a slot in it not quite as the height of a razor blade, drilled a hole in the end and mounted a razor blade in it.  I fine tuned the depth of scrap by adding pieces of tape to the 2X4, this was trial and error but it seemed to work pretty good and I could keep it flat & perpendicular to the surface.  So I used my home made scrapper until I got down close to the clear coat then switched to just using a razor blade.  I then switched to some 2000 grit paper and then used a polisher and some rubbing compound.  I'll get some 3000 grit paper and do a little more work on it.

There are a couple places that got through the paint but not bad considering what I was facing.   These spots would have come out with any method of removing the epoxy, it is what it is!!!!

I should be able to touch up the spots. 

Mini scrapper.jpg

Start scrapping.jpg

Almost done.jpg


Obituary
William

Rest in peace..John


Reattach lower shower door brackets
fredelkamp
On 7/18/2021 at 2:40 PM, Gary M said:

Maybe unhook top, slip in bottom and pull up to set top rollers in. Just guessing!!!

Thanks, you where close, I loosened the bolts on top of the rollers which lowered the doors about 1/4" so the hooks would easily fit in bottom track, but only the first one would stay in the track when I tightened up the bolts. I then noticed that the first roller "axle" was lower than the other three rollers Appears the axles are not centered and if it's lower the door is held up higher. So I took the other rollers off, turned them over and tightened them up while I held the bottom hooks in with my foot. Worked great, no more floppy door.

Shower top roller.jpg


Norcold Part
klcdenver

Attached is a pic of the one I have. Sorry I didn’t get to it this morning. Let me know if you want it. 
 

Kenneth

7E04835C-DCA8-47A5-964F-7AEDCEC5002D.jpeg


Norcold Part
bobstromain

Thanks Kenneth  Yes I would like to have it.  Have you ever had to reset it?  Let me know what you want for it and freight cost.

Bob St, Romain 19535 Deer Park Ave, Baton Rouge La. 70817    Let me know what I need to do 

Thank you!


Norcold Part
klcdenver

You can have it for the freight charge. Then you can buy me a beer if we ever meet up. If pac n mail is open tomorrow I will get it coming your way. Do you want cheapest freight or something expedited? I never had to reset it. I have the whole norcold 1200 if you need other parts. It was working pretty good if not really hot. I just went ahead and switched it to a residential. 
 

Kenneth


Norcold Part
bobstromain

Cheapest way is fine. I really appreciate it.  When you know freight charge let me know In will send you a check.  I would love to meet up and have that beer.  You never know....we were at an rv park with friends who have a coach just like ours ( 04 Windsor ) And who walks up but Dave Pratt

Bob St. Romain 19535 Deer Park Ave.  Baton Rouge La.  70817   225  933-3473


Cut wire from steering column??
Cubflyer

John C,

So some kind of service bulletin??  Thanks! I think this may be the answer to the cut wire. 

Clearly it was cut intentionally, wish they would have also capped them. Then I would not have questioned it.

Do you have a link or something to what you screen shot?

Ken


Engine ECU
rtmurley

Gunnyclark, thank you for the information. I passed in on to my friend.


Cut wire from steering column??
jcavataio5255

Hi Ken,

It came direct from a Monaco chassis wiring diagram (attached) for a 2003 Endeavor/Diplomat! 

I wondered the same thing you did, when I seen the wire cut on my previous motorhome a HR 03 Endeavor. 

John C

2003 chassis wiring38020184.dwg


Convert Batwing antenna to hold a wifi/ cellular antenna.
woodylmiller

Thanks Bob, I'll check it out.  

Woody Miller


Fuel gauge not working
daveyjo

My generator manual says :Starting the Generator
Push and hold control switch in START position until the generator starts.
Release switch. On diesel models the control switch may flash up to 15
seconds, indicating engine preheat.
NOTE: Diesel models may require priming. Hold control switch in
the OFF position for one minute. Repeat if necessary. The diesel
generator fuel pick-up tube is cut to approximately ¼ tank so as
not to run the main engine out of fuel.

So maybe prime it for a minute.  Mine wouldn't start sometimes and gradually got worse until priming wouldn't start it.  Turned out the cooling temp sensor was bad.  Works beautifully now.


Cut wire from steering column??
Cubflyer

John C,

Thank you so much!  I have been searching for a wiring diagram for my '03 Endeavor since I bought it in February.  I have an ABS light on and system inop, the Eaton wiring does not show the "test module" that the motorhome uses and so I could not 'chase wires' to/from it.  Codes are showing speed sensor problems but they all ohm out good... thought I would check all the other connections before I started pulling wheels (can't get to the rear sensors with wheels installed).  Or the problem may be in the Eaton abs module (not the test module) located center coach.

Thanks again,

Ken


2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
JDCrow

Back in the Dip. 

Changed air filter, and for the right primary fuel filter from Napa.

Decided to go with OAT coolant, so drained block and put in the non tablet filter. Taking the old one off, I was nervous as it looked old. But it cut pretty clean. 

EC5567F6-593B-44E2-85F6-DC673593E0BF.jpeg

647EE134-A14D-41E1-957F-0C5954251F18.jpeg

233F236E-0F69-46A2-8C47-19E93C7C83A5.jpeg

7893BD85-E14E-45C9-94D7-A0BDA938B778.jpeg

2603DB71-0560-4850-AAB0-44BA8AE48675.jpeg


2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
JDCrow

Stopped by work late…..been waiting for this box!

 

 

D3CD4F5F-EF8C-4D14-A1F3-65C45B75ABF5.jpeg


New Photos

Chargermans Executive
Chargerman
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Chargerman’s Executive
Chargerman
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