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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/522-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Temporary loss of power
Jim Bob
Odd Inverter Issue..
jacwjames
Stuck Drawer
dandick66
Odd Inverter Issue..
Bob Jones
Odd Inverter Issue..
jacwjames
Coach Name Badges
windsorbill06
Odd Inverter Issue..
Cubflyer
Odd Inverter Issue..
jacwjames
Coach Name Badges
jacwjames
Coach Name Badges
windsorbill06
Temporary loss of power
Dr4Film
Oil Level Sensor Failure
dl_racing427
Coach Name Badges
stillrunning_60@hotmail.com
Oil Level Sensor Failure
Dr4Film
Engine charging problem
saflyer
Adding a Generator Slide?
Steve P
Coach Name Badges
JDCrow
Engine charging problem
Dr4Film
Engine charging problem
Jim Byrd
Engine charging problem
saflyer
Engine charging problem
Dr4Film
Odd Inverter Issue..
Bob Jones
Odd Inverter Issue..
Dr4Film
Odd Inverter Issue..
waterskier_1
Adding a Generator Slide?
Rikadoo
Odd Inverter Issue..
Bob Jones
Stuck Drawer
FishAR
Odd Inverter Issue..
Dr4Film
Odd Inverter Issue..
Bob Jones
Norcold Part
scottjo02
Odd Inverter Issue..
Bob Jones
Inverter/Charger not inverting
Chuck Hefti
Coach Name Badges
Keamyinc
Coach Name Badges
windsorbill06
Modernizing my 2008 Safari Cheetah
McHughes
Charging system
Rikadoo
120 AC twist wire nut melted
ok-rver
Charging system
Cubflyer

New Posts

Temporary loss of power
Jim Bob

Stephen, I had the same issue on mine, so not odd at all.  It would start and idle, but the accelerator did nothing.  It would just idle.  In the original post, he had a loss of power that after a period of time it returned and operated normally.  So, I did not suggest checking this.  This really sounds like the exhaust brake hung open for a while.


Odd Inverter Issue..
jacwjames

When I had my inverter out I was not using the RV, it was in the garage.   I went ahead and taped up the +/- 12 volt cables, and then 120 volt leads just to be on the safe side.  But one thing that baffled me was that when the inverter out I could not get any 12 volt circuits to work even though I had the 12 volt disconnect on.  I did put a small battery charger on the house batteries but that didn't help. 

When I put the inverter back in and hooked up the 12 volt leads but bypassed the 120 volt system the 12 volt circuits in the motorhome worked.  This allowed me to trouble shoot the 120 volt circuit and ultimately solve my problem. 

So in the future, if I have to bypass/remove the inverter how do I get the 12 volt circuits to work.

 


Stuck Drawer
dandick66
14 hours ago, FishAR said:

I've got a drawer in my bedroom stuck tight. Bottom one under the tv. I mean it doesn't move or wiggle in, out, up, or down. Like it's glued there.

 

Wife was putting liner in drawers and shelves while I was messing with the fridge and generator. She said Would you open this drawer? I kind of laughed to myself, not after I tried to open it.

It's stuck so tight I even looked in from the drawer above to make sure it's not a false front even though I know I've opened it before. 

Looking for tips. I'll go down in the morning and try to figure out how to remove the one above it so I can see what's going on.

To remove the drawer above, slide it all the way out until it stops.  Then look at the slides and there will probably be a little plastic latch that stops the drawer.  They will be in both sides.  Move the latches and continue to pull the drawer out.  


Odd Inverter Issue..
Bob Jones

Hi Jim - I don't know how you couldn't have 12v if the disconnect switch to the coach batteries was not turned off. Yours must be wired differently than mine?

As you can see in the pic, on mine I did not disconnect the battery cables from anywhere other than at the back of the inverter. Do you have some kind of battery management system or something that could interfere with the 12v? I'd have to see a picture of how it's wired to come up with an idea on that one. 

My system/motorhome is pretty simple in that respect. There is no other battery management than the inverter. 


Odd Inverter Issue..
jacwjames

I had my voltmeter out even checking the entire system.  Could not figure out why I wasn't getting 12 volt to the house.  I never did figure it out but solved my problem by installing the inverter and attaching the 12 volt cables and all the control wires.  Not sure if one of the control wires would have had something to do with it. 

I guess this problem is for another day, got too many irons in the fire already.


Coach Name Badges
windsorbill06

thanks everyone for replying.  The individual that is spearheading this 'project' is saying the start up cost/minimum manufacture order is significant, which we knew when we started discussing this.   We're keeping track of interest and models from this forum, so keep the reply's coming in.  Thank you to those that sent me an email with pictures of your name badge.  It's been helpful. 

 

Keep the comments coming.


Odd Inverter Issue..
Cubflyer

Jim J,

>>>So in the future, if I have to bypass/remove the inverter how do I get the 12 volt circuits to work?<<<

My guess is to connect to the chassis the big black (negative side of the batteries) cable while the inverter is removed..... there is no other reason the other 12v items on the circuit would be inop other than the ground is missing.  Weird to me that the only connection of the house batteries to ground would be thru the inverter but if that is the only negative side of the batteries disconnecting it kills the circuit....

Ken


Odd Inverter Issue..
jacwjames

You might be right, I crawled under the coach to see if I could find another ground and never found one although I didn't spend much time looking, I had bigger fish to fry. 


Coach Name Badges
jacwjames

Before I commit I'd like to know what the price is but I am interested in both the name but also the Monaco emblem.  The emblem on the front of the coach has seen it's better days.


Coach Name Badges
windsorbill06
3 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

Before I commit I'd like to know what the price is but I am interested in both the name but also the Monaco emblem.  The emblem on the front of the coach has seen it's better days.

That's a good question.  I don't know what the price point is yet.  We are trying to get a 'feel' for the extent of the interest right now  for name badges only.   I know there is a pretty good demand for the monaco logo's, but that's a separate issue.  

He had started this project a couple years ago, but with Covid, it was put on hold.  Since then, the mfg has doubled the 'minimum' order and he's still waiting to get the total cost, including all the set up fees  Again, this is for the name badges only. 


Temporary loss of power
Dr4Film
23 hours ago, Dale N said:

A great thought on the exhaust brake.

Now I will need more help.  I am a mechanical engineer but when it comes to vehicles I am a 'Parts Changer'  so I will go out, now that we are home for 5 weeks and find it.  What is the recommended lube for this?  I know I do not want to attract dirt.

I use Tri-Flow on all of the points listed on the Exhaust Brake Lube Chart which I included below. If you have the Upgraded PRXB you include the base of the spring too.

There is also a YouTube Video showing how to lubricate the exhaust brake.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_wX98sHBpU

SuperLube-2.jpg

 

PacBrake Lubrication Chart.pdf


Oil Level Sensor Failure
dl_racing427

It's very likely that this sensor is externally mounted, and might be easily replaced by the owner.
I'd check that out before I paid shop rates for what could be a very simple repair.


Coach Name Badges
stillrunning_60@hotmail.com

02 Windsor for sure!


Oil Level Sensor Failure
Dr4Film

Here is a link to a very knowledgeable members post on iRV2.com in regards to a failed oil level sensor.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f125/oil-level-sensor-failure-218799.html


Engine charging problem
saflyer

Cummins ISC 330 with 160a alternator. I had a suspicion from my last start that the chassis batteries weren’t charged fully. I’m not good about watching my gauges so didn’t have an idea of a problem before noticing this. I don’t have an ammeter but do have a chassis voltage gauge. Decided to run the engine for a test. First I checked the chassis batteries with a voltmeter and they were just barely over 13v. When I turned the key on the panel voltage showed a little more than 12v.  I started the engine. Seemed to crank good but it took about 5 seconds for the voltage to move off 12v and indicate charging at about 13.3-13.5 volts. (Difficult to tell since the gauge is in single digit increments. One of my old engineering professors would say you can’t resolve it closer than one volt.) It showed 13+ For about 15 seconds the went back to about 12v for 5 seconds then 13+ again for about 15 seconds. I hit my stop watch to see if it maintained this regularity and it did for about 6-8 cycles thenit went steady at 13+v for a couple of minutes before I turned the engine off.

The next day I had to move the coach to a new site. The voltage went through the same process, about six 20 second cycles then stabilizing at 13.3-13.5v for the ten minutes it took to move.

We are near Denver for now but had planned to go to the mountains for some boondocking to test my new solar installation but with this issue I decided it would be prudent to have the charging system checked out. Of course it was a Friday afternoon so finding a shop was difficult. Luckily I was able to schedule an appointment for Monday morning at a local diesel shop.

Does anyone have any insight about this issue? 
Ed         
‘05 HR Ambassador 


Adding a Generator Slide?
Steve P

Granted, this is a crazy idea, but has anyone attempted to add a generator slide to a Monaco that has a stationary generator?  Access to my Onan 8K is by a hatch on the front that is hinged at the bottom edge.  It swings out and down.  The generator is right there, sort of.  If someone knows of a kit to mount the front hatch and put the generator on rails, plus the longer wiring, that would be a start.  Okay, I must be insane just for asking.  It's not like I don't already have enough to do maintaining this beast.


Coach Name Badges
JDCrow

I’m the same, name and emblems. Wouldn’t mind bigger emblems for some added “bling” 


Engine charging problem
Dr4Film

The alternator should be putting out 14+ volts with the engine running. mine reads about 14.3 VDC.

13+ to me indicates that possibly you have a failed diode and it may be on its last leg.

Don't like analog gauges. I use SilverLeaf to monitor all of my engine vitals.


Engine charging problem
Jim Byrd
48 minutes ago, saflyer said:

Cummins ISC 330 with 160a alternator. I had a suspicion from my last start that the chassis batteries weren’t charged fully. I’m not good about watching my gauges so didn’t have an idea of a problem before noticing this. I don’t have an ammeter but do have a chassis voltage gauge. Decided to run the engine for a test. First I checked the chassis batteries with a voltmeter and they were just barely over 13v. When I turned the key on the panel voltage showed a little more than 12v.  I started the engine. Seemed to crank good but it took about 5 seconds for the voltage to move off 12v and indicate charging at about 13.3-13.5 volts. (Difficult to tell since the gauge is in single digit increments. One of my old engineering professors would say you can’t resolve it closer than one volt.) It showed 13+ For about 15 seconds the went back to about 12v for 5 seconds then 13+ again for about 15 seconds. I hit my stop watch to see if it maintained this regularity and it did for about 6-8 cycles thenit went steady at 13+v for a couple of minutes before I turned the engine off.

The next day I had to move the coach to a new site. The voltage went through the same process, about six 20 second cycles then stabilizing at 13.3-13.5v for the ten minutes it took to move.

We are near Denver for now but had planned to go to the mountains for some boondocking to test my new solar installation but with this issue I decided it would be prudent to have the charging system checked out. Of course it was a Friday afternoon so finding a shop was difficult. Luckily I was able to schedule an appointment for Monday morning at a local diesel shop.

Does anyone have any insight about this issue? 
Ed         
‘05 HR Ambassador 

The voltage swings that you are observing when starting a cold engine are your plate heater cycling on and off, this is a normal occurrence.


Engine charging problem
saflyer
11 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

The alternator should be putting out 14+ volts with the engine running. mine reads about 14.3 VDC.

13+ to me indicates that possibly you have a failed diode and it may be on its last leg.

Don't like analog gauges. I use SilverLeaf to monitor all of my engine vitals.

I forgot there is digital voltage readout but not an amperage one in my ScanGuage D. Tried the test again. It did about 5 cycles of 12.1v for 4 or 5 seconds then 13.7-13.9v for about 15 seconds. Eventually it settled to reading 13.9-14.0 v with an occasional 14.1v. Does that still indicate a problem?

What is a SilverLeaf?

Thanks,       
Ed

 


Engine charging problem
Dr4Film
2 minutes ago, saflyer said:

I forgot there is digital voltage readout but not an amperage one in my ScanGuage D. Tried the test again. It did about 5 cycles of 12.1v for 4 or 5 seconds then 13.7-13.9v for about 15 seconds. Eventually it settled to reading 13.9-14.0 v with an occasional 14.1v. Does that still indicate a problem?

What is a SilverLeaf?

Thanks,       
Ed

 

Since your ScanGauge is reading over 14+ volts I believe you are OK. I also agree with the previous poster that the initial fluctuation is from your Grid heaters which turn off after the air intake has reached temp.

SilverLeaf VMSpc is an add-on system which connects to the engine diagnostic port and takes all of the ECM information and displays it on a computer screen in the format that I create.

https://www.silverleafelectronics.com/node/6

 

VMSpc-14.JPG


Odd Inverter Issue..
Bob Jones

I think Ken nailed it - good call! 

This does make me wonder though about your vehicles grounds. On my inverter there is a bare thin copper ground wire that runs to the rear of the inverter. If yours has the same perhaps it's only grounding through there? It might be something to keep in the back of your mind to look into when you have time as it *might* indicate you have a ground issue? I'm no expert, but it sticks out in my mind. 

13 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

The plastic rivets are about $5, in the USA - not sure about CA.  Depending on size, you might get them at an auto parts store.  I buy mine in quantities on eBay.  

Yes, you'll need a charge source for the batteries if you plan on not reinstalling for an extended time, and don't have solar. 

Best of luck on the relay replacement fixing the problem. 

I'll try the auto parts store today although the rivets are a little odd. Not the normal push in button type but they seem to literally be a type of plastic rivet. Plan change! I've got the unit all back together. It's going to take a long time for the new relay to show up so what I did was take the relay contacts off (pretty simple, remove the spring and then the arm lifts off). Then I could see the contacts and cleaned them up with emery paper. 

I'll put it back in today and see what happens. I took lots of pics. Here's some. My ultrasonic cleaner was not large enough to do the whole board at once 😞

20210821_172839.jpg

20210821_174921.jpg


Odd Inverter Issue..
Dr4Film
4 hours ago, Cubflyer said:

Jim J,

>>>So in the future, if I have to bypass/remove the inverter how do I get the 12 volt circuits to work?<<<

My guess is to connect to the chassis the big black (negative side of the batteries) cable while the inverter is removed..... there is no other reason the other 12v items on the circuit would be inop other than the ground is missing.  Weird to me that the only connection of the house batteries to ground would be thru the inverter but if that is the only negative side of the batteries disconnecting it kills the circuit....

According to the wiring diagram below of the Trace/Xantrex RV2012 Inverter/Charger, once you remove the Inverter the ground is missing for the 12 VDC supply to power those devices in the coach.

When changing House Batteries the coach doesn't lose 12 VDC power as it is getting it from the Inverter/Charger. However, when you remove the Inverter there is no more ground. You would have to make a temporary ground for it to work correctly.

Trace RV-2012 Schematic.pdf


Odd Inverter Issue..
waterskier_1

Ken and Richard are correct.  The only way for the battery negative to get to chassis ground is through the inverter.  This is by design.  This way, ALL current flowing into/out of the battery MUST flow through the inverter, so it knows how much current is going into and out of the battery.  It uses this to show current flow, and also, if you have any sort of battery monitor, this is the input for it to gauge State Of Charge (SOC).  Since the inverter is removed, no inverter functions or readouts are available, so you can connect the negative battery cable to chassis ground.  Just remember what you did (and hopefully why you did it.).


Adding a Generator Slide?
Rikadoo

I have never heard of anyone doing, however it sounds like a GREAT idea to me.👍


Odd Inverter Issue..
Bob Jones

That makes perfect sense. But it also makes me wonder why mine is working. Perhaps it's wired differently. I even went out there and made sure the ground to the rear of my inverter was not touching ground - still works. 


Stuck Drawer
FishAR

I got the drawer above the stuck drawer out of the way. Got the stuck drawer open. The glides are seriously binding up. I get it out of there and I can work on freeing them up. One lever is causing me a problem.


LED Conversion of Fluorescent Tubes - SIMPLE and CHEAPER....
Tom Cherry

We have used the Camelot for almost 2 years equivalent....so it has not set in storage that much. I replaced some of the Fluorescent Tubes in 2017 and I knew that more were probably starting "age". In the OLD site, there was quite a bit of discussion that if you kept nursing along the OEM Fluorescent fixtures and the bulbs were aging....that had some impact on the expected life of the ballasts. 

There was also a lot of discussion about the RFI (EMF? or NOISE) associated with the Fluorescent tubes and their impact on the electronics.  Specifically the "clock" or chip that drives the Intellitec EMS as well as some of the 5 button TStats....and a LOT more problems on the Intellitec Multiplex circuitry....whether the full blown version on the Dynasties and above or the hybrid in the Camelots.

We were boondocking at a Cabelas in RIchmond and had noticed some failures.  For the record, we have 3 18" (2 bulb) fixtures up front in the living-galley area. I keep the front one OFF and we only use the center and rear one. There are also 3 fixtures in the bedroom. One 18" and two 12" ones. I had elected to only run one of the 12's and the 18 as that was way more than enough light.  I did not mention the Bathroom or the "hallway".  I have decided to DO THEM as well as the 18" also....

Bottom line....I did some research....and also did some replacing.....so this is MY experience and MY thoughts....others will differ and that is what makes us unique.  I am quite capable of rewiring or replacing or removing the fixtures or the ballasts and installing the LED Arrays. However, I had also done a major project for the church and learned some things from the Duke Energy experts....as well as a buddy who came across an interesting LED feature....not on ALL LED tubes, but more common now than before.

If you have 120 VAC Fluorescent fixtures and have had them for a while, odds are, you MIGHT have had to install a ballast. I have installed 4 ballasts at home as I do not want to have to rehang or find an equivalent fixture....the DW LOVES the kitchen one....so nurse it along.

With the newer technology LED Tubes, you can USE your existing Ballast....OR you can wire around it and feed the LED's 120 VAC line voltage. If you google "remove ballast for LED conversion", you will find many articles....all are simple and you can actually follow the color codes if you don't quite understand the schematic.  SO, that will be my NEXT replacement.....LED's running off Line Voltage at home.

OK....back on track.  There are TWO types of LED's for RV/Marine.  One is advertised as a 12 VDC or Ballast type. From what I read on Amazon, the light output from 12 VDC is reduced. The ratings were not that good. I read NO MORE and passed on this option.  DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH if that if your cup of tea.

Then, I found that the GE 12" tubes were priced at Lowes at the same or cheaper than Amazon and they are BULK Shipped and not thrown into a box and banged all over the country. So, I bought 4 of them. I decided to use the TWO 12" fixtures in the Bedroom and then switch off the 18" one.  We have the "Daylight" tubes....some original and some from 2017. The ones that I put in are "adjustable" in that you have THREE different temperatures....they come as COOL WHITE...which matches the LED's that I used when I converted the puck and socket lights to LED many years ago. The map lights are the only incandescent and I can't get the cover off....

I was PLEASANTLY surprised.....the two (2 bulb) 12 LED fixtures with Cool White put out MORE than a "smidge" (subjectively) than the single 18" and the one 12" (both are 2 tube fixtures).  DW is elated. MORE light....and she is now moving from the OMG, I want daylight to "Hey, CW is cool".

Here is the link to the Lowes 12" tube that I bought. They popped in easily and are starting instantly....so no issues.... BTW....the Lowe's price on the Fluorescent is $9 and the LED is only $13....  I think that the LED tubes for our MH used to be about twice that....but I might be wrong.... I am now saving 4 Amp Hours of my batteries....WOO HOO!....every little bit helps....

https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Color-Correct-Technology-8-Watt-EQ-12-in-Daylight-Linear-LED-Tube-Light-Bulb/5000762909

I think, from watching, that the old ballasts will do an INSTANT start on the new LED's and there is certainly NO Hesitation.

BTW....  I GOOFED.  I was checking the "switch" on a tube and realized there is a TOP and a BOTTOM to the tube....there is a label on the tube, but I failed to turn them all UP. WOW....with all of them turned DOWN and shining....it is MUCH brighter. Pay attention to the label side and it should go UP.

Hope this is of interest....


Odd Inverter Issue..
Dr4Film

I believe the Legend Series is wired differently.

Here is a manual which closely matches your Inverter. I could not find one labeled exactly for the Legend 1500 Watt Inverter.

3178UX-L-TRevNew.pdf


LED Conversion of Fluorescent Tubes - SIMPLE and CHEAPER....
JDCrow
20 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

We have used the Camelot for almost 2 years equivalent....so it has not set in storage that much. I replaced some of the Fluorescent Tubes in 2017 and I knew that more were probably starting "age". In the OLD site, there was quite a bit of discussion that if you kept nursing along the OEM Fluorescent fixtures and the bulbs were aging....that had some impact on the expected life of the ballasts. 

There was also a lot of discussion about the RFI (EMF? or NOISE) associated with the Fluorescent tubes and their impact on the electronics.  Specifically the "clock" or chip that drives the Intellitec EMS as well as some of the 5 button TStats....and a LOT more problems on the Intellitec Multiplex circuitry....whether the full blown version on the Dynasties and above or the hybrid in the Camelots.

We were boondocking at a Cabelas in RIchmond and had noticed some failures.  For the record, we have 3 18" (2 bulb) fixtures up front in the living-galley area. I keep the front one OFF and we only use the center and rear one. There are also 3 fixtures in the bedroom. One 18" and two 12" ones. I had elected to only run one of the 12's and the 18 as that was way more than enough light.

Bottom line....I did some research....and also did some replacing.....so this is MY experience and MY thoughts....others will differ and that is what makes us unique.  I am quite capable of rewiring or replacing or removing the fixtures or the ballasts and installing the LED Arrays. However, I had also done a major project for the church and learned some things from the Duke Energy experts....as well as a buddy who came across an interesting LED feature....not on ALL LED tubes, but more common now than before.

If you have 120 VAC Fluorescent fixtures and have had them for a while, odds are, you MIGHT have had to install a ballast. I have installed 4 ballasts at home as I do not want to have to rehang or find an equivalent fixture....the DW LOVES the kitchen one....so nurse it along.

With the newer technology LED Tubes, you can USE your existing Ballast....OR you can wire around it and feed the LED's 120 VAC line voltage. If you google "remove ballast for LED conversion", you will find many articles....all are simple and you can actually follow the color codes if you don't quite understand the schematic.  SO, that will be my NEXT replacement.....LED's running off Line Voltage at home.

OK....back on track.  There are TWO types of LED's for RV/Marine.  One is advertised as a 12 VDC or Ballast type. From what I read on Amazon, the light output from 12 VDC is reduced. The ratings were not that good. I read NO MORE and passed on this option.  DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH if that if your cup of tea.

Then, I found that the GE 12" tubes were priced at Lowes at the same or cheaper than Amazon and they are BULK Shipped and not thrown into a box and banged all over the country. So, I bought 4 of them. I decided to use the TWO 12" fixtures in the Bedroom and then switch off the 18" one.  We have the "Daylight" tubes....some original and some from 2017. I chose COOL WHITE as I converted the puck and socket lights to LED many years ago. The map lights are the only incandescent and I can't get the cover off....

I was PLEASANTLY surprised.....the two (2 bulb) 12 LED fixtures with Cool White put out a smidge more (subjectively) than the single 18" and the one 12" (both are 2 tube fixtures).  DW is elated. MORE light....and she is now moving from the OMG, I want daylight to "Hey, CW is cool".

Here is the link to the Lowes 12" tube that I bought. They popped in easily and are starting instantly....so no issues.... BTW....the Lowe's price on the Fluorescent is $9 and the LED is only $13....  I think that the LED tubes for our MH used to be about twice that....but I might be wrong.... I am now saving 4 Amp Hours of my batteries....WOO HOO!....every little bit helps....

https://www.lowes.com/pd/GE-Color-Correct-Technology-8-Watt-EQ-12-in-Daylight-Linear-LED-Tube-Light-Bulb/5000762909

I HAVE noticed that one of the living-galley fixtures seems to be a little sluggish. I MAY upgrade the two of them also and see if the ballast works OK. I will now have TWO "OFF" 18" fixtures, so if I have a ballast failure, I might rob one.....or be a big spender and get a new ballast...

Hope this is of interest....

Awesome! I hadn’t thought about that route. For some reason it was in my head that I needed RV style tubes as I thought 12v. So I purchased tubes that did away with the ballast. 
 

I have converted both styles at our shop. The pop in ones are way easier that removing ballasts as our ceiling height is 14’ at work.

Those tubes you shared are a lot cheaper way to go for sure 

 


LED Conversion of Fluorescent Tubes - SIMPLE and CHEAPER....
rpasetto

I've never used the LED tube replacements for the fluorescents.  I have used self adhesive LED strips which can be wired directly to 12v.  I just disconnect ballasts from the circuit and leave 'em in place as they don't seem to get in the way.  Did them all on our last coach but your post reminds me I have a few yet to do on this one.  🙂


Odd Inverter Issue..
Bob Jones

Thanks Richard - that is the one that I have (L model in 1500 watts). I'm just about to re-install so will be offline again. I'll know in short order whether I missed any connections inside or put them in the wrong place........or just generally screwed it up 🙂

I did take pictures of everything before dissasembly and checked and double-checked them during reassembly. I'm as sure as can be that it's correct. If cleaning the 'points' did the trick I should know soon! Likewise if I introduced a problem. One thing is sure though, I know more about how it works than I did before.


Norcold Part
scottjo02

Kenneth (klcdenver)

I would like to purchase the main electrical circuit board (the black box shown in my photo just above the fire extenguisher head). I am in Tulsa, OK. let me know what to do if you wish to sell it.

Thanks

Scott Jordan

837868884_Halon02.thumb.jpg.730992af4e98d433e70a22e07a49ab8d.jpg


LED Conversion of Fluorescent Tubes - SIMPLE and CHEAPER....
Tom Cherry

I was doing some work remounting the bedroom sliding doors and then got CURIOUS. I corrected a few statements in my first post.

The tubes are switchable....as they have a slider switch for different temps of light.  They come as COOL WHITE setting

The tubes have a label on the top. I put some down.  Changed that to where all are ARRAY SIDE down....WOW....that helped also.

I decided to do the rest of the ones that we use. SO, I am converting the bathroom and hallway to LED as well as the kitchen/galley lights. That way, it is all done and we can enjoy them.  NOW, I am REALLY saving amp hours...  LOL...

You make the call....rewire and convert to LED or use the LED tubes....


Aquahot AHE-100-02s leaking coolant at filler neck
joefromperry

I have my aquahot pulled out of my 2003 signature because of a coolant leak that I couldn't find; what a pain. Anyway, with the boiler full of regular water and both manifold valves turned off, I pressurized the system through first the overflow with regular cap on to around 13 lbs, and then again with a mity-vac radiator cap pressure adapter. I had some leakage around the filler neck. I heated the neck with a propane torch, and the top just came off easily with no persuasion. I was surprised to see there's only maybe 1/8 inch of overlap for the solder. So, I cleaned both surfaces very well, thinking it'll be easy to resolder. However, I must be missing something, because the top will not solder to the neck. Dissimilar metals? Probably going to head to my radiator shop to see if he can do anything, bur first, any suggestions?


Odd Inverter Issue..
Bob Jones

So far...so good. It's back in and charging and I've tested the inverter operation several times so...the relay is working OK at this point. Time will tell if the intermittent issue is gone. But...what is interesting, is the buzzing noise the inverter used to make is much quieter and a higher pitch. Go figure. Fan works, charger works, relay works, it looks like I didn't introduce a problem and that's always a good thing. Plus, I learned a lot. If it packs it in, I can bypass it. I also realize that I can replace the relay without taking the entire thing apart. 

Here's some pics for anyone interested....that date code is correct, it's from 1999.....they made them a LOT better back then...

20210822_124947.jpg

20210822_141747.jpg


Aquahot AHE-100-02s leaking coolant at filler neck
vito.a

This is a common issue.  They make replacement filler necks for it.  One of the versions clamps on and the other solder on.  

Contact John Carrillo:  About John Carrillo - Hydronic Heating System Specialist (heatmyrv.com)

Or Roger Berke:  No-Solder-Filler Neck Kit (rvhydronicheaterrepair.com)


Inverter/Charger not inverting
Chuck Hefti

Update... I decided after checking everything I had the guts to check I took off the covering (see attached photo)over the Invert button on the front of the unit itself because it was so smashed in that the button wasn't operable. There was a small piece of round foam the size of the button behind the front covering and between that and the actual button that had dried out and become very hard. So after removing all of that I then was able to just push the button with the eraser end of a pencil and the Inverter came to life. It now works fine. But and there's always a but. The remote inside isn't communicating with the Inverter properly because I can turn off the Inverter using the remote but can't turn it back on, it just goes blank. So I have to go back outside and turn it on again. So one issue resolved only to find another one. Anybody out there with any ideas? Thanks20210822_153525.thumb.jpg.ca8c5887f72ad90a420f409004e471e5.jpg


covering repair of interior side of entry door
redstickbill

Mr Ellison & Nevada Bob,

I do not have a solution to the problem, just interested as I also have an 07 Dynasty Squire IV, perhaps you could send a photo or two showing the problem.

Bill B 07 Dynasty

bblansfield@juno.com


Coach Name Badges
Keamyinc

Do you still need the measurements for the 02 Windsor? I have all the emblems still on mine.

Keamy


Seeking source for fan control for hydraulic fan
Woody O
On 8/15/2021 at 11:43 AM, Woody O said:

Traveling over contential divide to reach Grand Tetons, had to drop speed drop down to 35mph and had to stop 4 times to cool down radiator. Got appointment at Kenworth Sales in Idaho Falls this coming Thursday. Over the phone, they are thinking fan control. Not sure if they would have a replacement, so was hoping to find a source here to help out if they don’t. Have a 2006 Dynasty with ISL-2 400 Cummins.

I went to Kenworth Sales in Idaho Falls to see if everything was working as it should on the coach. They plugged their laptop into the diagnostic port and found out that everything was working as it should.  The problem was, I went up a too long, too high an inclined and it was too much for my coach. So, in the future, I will check the elevation when scheduling my routes to determine which inclines to tackle. Everything went well going over to Estes Park yesterday. Thanks to everyone who rendered  assistance.

 


Coach Name Badges
windsorbill06
4 minutes ago, Keamyinc said:

Do you still need the measurements for the 02 Windsor? I have all the emblems still on mine.

Keamy

If it’s easy to do, yes please. Post here or email me.  
 

thanks. 


LP Switch, must be going blind, Scepter
ok-rver

Found the switch, I almost never open that compartment. One of the spades on the back of the light is broken off so the light does not work. Wife switched the house shutoff switch at the door and it appears the solenoid opened and closed. I have a major electrical issue in another area and did not check any further. Will order light and confirm if circuit is switched with house. This would be an issue if running frig off propane and you shut the house off.


Modernizing my 2008 Safari Cheetah
McHughes

Replaced bathroom faucets with Pfister Ladera  in brushed nickel. 

On sale at Home Depot with Lifetime Warranty.

 

IMG_0802.jpg


Charging system
Rikadoo

Ok so i have a silly ass question, so my coach is for now working as it should, it starts, runs, drives an everything is as it should be. Just a few months ago i replaced the radiator an 95% of the entire cooling system. At that time of it being all appart i decided while it was out to be proactive an get the alternator rebuilt cause now seem to be the best time since i could get to it. Everthing is as it should be. My alternator is a “DUVAC” style as it states it on the outside. Reading others with similar systems shows they have a “isolator” to charge both battery banks as its needed, an the seperate sensor wire sends battery voltage to the regulator so it knows when to taper off the charge… i get that, my question is since i have the special alternator to perform this charging miracle WHY DOESNT MY COACH HAVE A ISOLATOR! I have been all over an dont see one anywhere!!! Now i can say i have NOT traced the output wire, i believe it to go directly to the battery, i also dont see where there may have been any isolator. The only system i see that shares voltage from bank to bank is the aftermarket “Magnum” system shown in the left, which i understand it links the two banks together with a limit of 25 amps. Also that solinoid below it is the “jumper” to jump the two in case one goes dead. Did HR not put isolators on all there units.BAE1C8F8-C489-4DC6-8A91-A28A7DD07CF6.thumb.jpeg.b8c47d27729c0838071cee6dfb0beafc.jpegCD59493A-476B-44A1-9B64-B14A70A64F84.thumb.jpeg.086d2e2e865312df892a312109330719.jpegBD65E2ED-9199-4EBA-9089-145493E2839B.thumb.jpeg.70e4b9876f05cb7f7be0e6c65ba9aa09.jpeg


120 AC twist wire nut melted
ok-rver

I am struggling with the shore power GFCI at my storage bay tripping when I plug in to it. That will be another post. While researching for a bad connection, I pulled the cover off the J-box between the output of my power cable reel and the start of the house wiring. The wire from the reel is the very thin many wires connected to the 6 or so ~12ga twisted wire bundle that feeds the transfer switch. The black lead, blue plastic nut had melted and fallen into the bottom of the J-box. The cone shaped wire that screws on to the wires (inside the wire nut) was still wrapped around the two conductors. Insulation has gotten hot enough to distort. the wires were rigid from heat.  I was able to feed addition wire into the J-box, cut back the wires to good copper and reattach. I will be coming up with a better connection type before I apply 50 amp to these circuits again. My thermal gun feel apart several months ago.  I will be buying a new better gun and will check many of the connections throughout the MH once I have service again. Also posting about the shore power GFCI which has become a 12 hour search for the tripping source.

The metal J-box would "probably" keep the heat from causing something to catch on fire. At some time, the wires might have come in contact with the metal box, been direct to ground and tripped the breaker. We were on 50 amp for 5 days over the last two weeks and never had an issue. Voltage on my Aladdin display were very close when I looked. 

HRS elec cable burn 1.JPG


Seeking source for fan control for hydraulic fan
Timaz996

That tells me you need to clean the fins of you CAC and radiator. 


GFCI at wall for shore power tripping
ok-rver

New to us MH. Been at this storage bay for 3 weeks. At dealer always connected to 50 amp.  Have had issues on and off with the STORAGE BAY WALL SHORE POWER 20 amp GFCI tripping when I plugged in. Adapters were old and thought they might be leaking. No issues plugging in lights, portable battery charger, 1,500 watt hot air gun. Back from last trip and it connects OK. Two days ago, 100% trip. Changed oil on Onan 7.5 generator that day, do not think I did any thing on 120 but must have unplugged and replugged to start getting trip. thinking hard about what else I did those days. maybe tripped when generator dropped out and the house relay pulled in. When reset, GFCI is on long enough to hear the relay in the ESCO Transfer Switch j-box pull in and then drop out. Tried system running generator and second transfer switch relay pulls in and house has 120vac as expected. Replace 15 to 30 adapter and 30 to 50 adapter, new 20 amp GFCI in wall, breakers off in distribution panel (in theory, isolate issue b4 breaker panel), new 50 amp male plug on end of power cord (power cable reel), opened J-box between cable reel and house wiring. See my post on melted twisted wire nut. Fix this but still getting a trip. Pulled the input wires off transfer switch relay and capped with wire nuts, No trip. I had moved the cable in and out of the reel thinking it might be an issue with the conductors not making good contact but this "eliminated" that possibility.  Pulled generator supply wires off lower relay in TS j-box thinking maybe it was back feeding to the generator. Trips. This relay is open so probably should not be an issue but I was getting funny ohm readings across the contact. Probably has something to do with the control circuit board. With the wires off, current had no were to go.  There is a circuit board between the two relays that energize the relay coil that should be on. Both coils ohm at 80 which is correct per ESCO trouble shooting guide.  Pulled output wires off house relay going to fuse panel. Reset GFCI, Relay pulls in, no trip. Made up 120 vac pig tail and connected to the black and white wires on output of house relay (not going thru relay contacts) and feed one side of distribution using extension cord. NO trip. Switched over to the Red and White wires, plugged in and NO trip. I thought this told me that the issue was not in the house wiring. There are some burn marks on contacts of relay. I pull relay and head to Lowes hoping that they have the contacts as a replacement part for a motor starter. Nope. Buy contact cleaner and 1000/2000 grit emery paper. I know this is not a long term solution but thinking maybe they are pulling in at different times. I will at minimum replaced contacts. Polish and clean and reinstall. At this point, I have most of Saturday and a couple of hours after church on Sunday invested. Wife gets back in town. I hold the contacts in and she resets the GFCI, TRIP. Probably not because they are not pulling in at the same time. Pull the output to house wires off again. Reset GFCI, NO trip. Connect white neutral only, reset, TRIP!!!!!!!!! This really causes me to scratch my head. Pull white and connect red, reset, NO trip. Add black with red, reset, No trip. Pull out multimeter, only milliVolts on white lead to ground, black and red. I had the cover off the distribution panel earlier but put it back. Tomorrow, I will relook and test the ohms from the white to the ground. It should be zero. I may pull the white wire off the ground lug at distribution panel to see if the relay will pull in. Owner of storage facility is a great guy and was there when I swapped the GFCI. He has no suggestion. It is NOT an option to replace the GFCI with a 20 amp duplex outlet.  

There is a 3" cube black box hanging off the bottom of my transfer switch. May be some sort of capacitor to minimize arcing. I had pulled the two leads to the black and red wires off their terminals with no change in the trip. Tomorrow, I will call ESCO to find out more about this device. I will also pull the lead off the white wire to see if maybe it is conducting to ground though that is what you want, the neutral and ground tied together.

My background is offshore oil platform controls systems and I have done a lot of trouble shooting over the years. There is a solution to this. Hoping maybe someone has a good direction to investigate. If I can not find the issue tomorrow, I will start calling some of the mobile RV services and pick their brains enough to see if they can contribute something to the solution.

I am sure learning a lot about my MH. When I got home today, my MonacoWatts x-braces were on the from porch. I did get the rear of the MH up on blocks today and will take an hour or two tomorrow to get them installed. 

I would appreciate any good suggestions.

 


Charging system
Cubflyer

Rik,

I have the same coach, it was not charging the "house" batteries while I traveled.  I replaced that silver colored relay in the center of your photo with a Blue Sea ML-ACR.

I was on the road so I did not connect the remote control.  It has worked great in "auto".  If I should need to do the "Jumped"/"Combined" batteries I can manually do that.  It's not like I would need to do that on the roll....

What it does, is that no matter what is charging the batteries, inverter or engine alternator or even a battery charger connected to one of the battery sets both sets of batteries get charged as needed.  When discharging either set of batteries they are separate.   You can manually over ride that separation by manually moving the yellow knob (or remotely if you install it).

Ken

 

ML-ACR.jpg

Rik,

The hardest part about the swap out was I had to use a step drill to open up the holes in the wire terminals to fit over the (bigger) terminal posts.  I left the purple and white wires disconnected...

Ken


LP Switch, must be going blind, Scepter
Cubflyer

Mike,

Please post the part number and source you find for the indicator light... as my light is inop (but I have not researched why)...

Ken


GFCI at wall for shore power tripping
jfbolkovatz

Ok-RVer

This is a long shot. In reviewing the picture of the elect box the grounf from the external power cord may not be of a adequate size. These beast have a different grounding method.


LP Switch, must be going blind, Scepter
ok-rver

This is what I think my light is. They also have JR switches that look correct. Will measure size and confirm over the next few days. This says light switch but only has two terminals. I think it is a light.

 

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/JR-Products-12755-Power-Indicator-Light-Switch-p/19-1860.htm


Jensen camera question
JDCrow

I removed the old BW tube tv from the dash and called RV cameras about upgrading. 
 

Evidently I have an Odd wire they have never seen. It’s a Jensen 6 pin. They can’t match it, so sent out new cable wire to run to get from their voyager camera to RCA in my new monitor.

Any suggestions on running the wire? The old one is in the roof and I don’t believe it will pull the new wire with it 


GFCI at wall for shore power tripping
Dwight Lindsey

Mike:

I didn't follow your troubleshooting tips very well, so my comment may or may not be helpful.

If you have an MSW inverter, GFI outlets don't like MSW at all.

I replaced my GFI outlet in the bathroom with one from Home Depot, Leviton I think.  It would trip any time the inverter was active.

Xantrex did some testing that applies to all MSW inverters.  You can find the document here:
https://nanopdf.com/download/gfci-compatabilities-output_pdf

Based on that document, I bought a Pass & Seymour GFI.  I had to get it on ebay.

No problem at all since I installed the Pass & Seymour GFCI

Dwight 

 


Jensen camera question
Cubflyer

JD,

I went with a wireless system... much improved from the factory "color" system... still running both but really can't see much in the original.  works really good to know you are clear after passing on the highway.  of course good for actual backing up..

Ken


Jensen camera question
JDCrow
19 minutes ago, Cubflyer said:

JD,

I went with a wireless system... much improved from the factory "color" system... still running both but really can't see much in the original.  works really good to know you are clear after passing on the highway.  of course good for actual backing up..

Ken

Yeah I am hooking into my in dash radio receiver. I feel like my dash real estate is shrinking. Still need to get a tire minder LOL 


2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
JDCrow

Well we are Orange now, coolant that is. Can’t see where I have a diesel leak, it’s a jumbled mess of injector tubes. I’m hoping a tube and. Not the distributor. It looks like one line is lose, but will be hard to get a wrench on. 
 

Working on new camera. Unfortunately I need to run a new wire. 

CA0C04A1-3E86-4363-9EB3-AF0EF6184767.jpeg


Charging system
Rikadoo

im always amazed how they look alike but are sooooo different underneath! I guess I just got to thinking reading about how so many are having issues that I started wondering "what if I have a issue" that it would be better to know now rather than trying to figure it out on the road...


120 AC twist wire nut melted
Jim Byrd

Wire nuts are a poor choice for any connection for your main power cord. All a #12 wire too small, minimum size for 50A power cord is #6 wire.


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