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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/525-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Time to Replace Norcold 1200?
Bob Jones
Time to Replace Norcold 1200?
Dr4Film
Ride Height Adjustment '08 Camelot?
Speerfamily
Time to Replace Norcold 1200?
Ivylog
Rear Floor Latches
tmw188
Rear Floor Latches
Dr4Film
Rear Floor Latches
tmw188
Ride Height Adjustment '08 Camelot?
Frank McElroy
Time to Replace Norcold 1200?
cbr046
Time to Replace Norcold 1200?
jacwjames
Slide room lock
Art Perrone
Repairing a Generator Slide
tmw188
Time to Replace Norcold 1200?
Dr4Film
Time to Replace Norcold 1200?
Chuck B
Slide room lock
Chuck B
Slide room lock
Ivan K
Slide room lock
Chuck B
Slide room lock
Frank McElroy
Repairing a Generator Slide
Ivylog
Time to Replace Norcold 1200?
Chuck B
Slide room lock
Ivan K
Time to Replace Norcold 1200?
Bob Jones
Neglected maintenance
Norman Austin
Neglected maintenance
rogers59
Neglected maintenance
JDCrow
Neglected maintenance
Bob Jones
Neglected maintenance
ncsteve
Neglected maintenance
Norman Austin
Neglected maintenance
just_john1
Neglected maintenance
JDCrow
Neglected maintenance
waterskier_1
Trouble in Maine
Mike in Va
Slide room lock
jacwjames
Neglected maintenance
Scott 61
Time to Replace Norcold 1200?
cbr046
Time to Replace Norcold 1200?
Bob Jones
Time to Replace Norcold 1200?
cbr046
Trouble in Maine
Romeo84
Trouble in Maine
Mike in Va

New Posts

Time to Replace Norcold 1200?
Bob Jones

Interesting. I am on Vancouver Island and this means the ambient temperature, at times, swings 10 degrees, or more, through the day. It's normal for the ambient temp to go from 15c (59) to 25c (77) at certain periods of the year. Or from nearly 0c to 15c during the day. Recently we hit a high of 38c (100) ambient for about a week. I monitor the temps of the fridge through my LCD panel many times a day because it's so easy. So, annually, my fridge works from 19.4f through to 100f ambient temperatures. 

Point being though is this. I run it on #2 for probably 98% of the year and only on #3 during the hottest part of August. So ambient temperatures or airflow should not make differences like you are seeing. That's assuming it's on AC though, like mine. I have no idea what it would do on propane. 

I bet the hardest part of installing that Frigidaire would be making the dolly for it to sit on to maneuver it into place 🙂 That, and physically removing the Norcold from the motorhome. But if a guy is just scrapping the Norcold, many people have taken a Sawzall to it and cut it into little pieces that easily fit through the door. Just sayin' 🙂 Not trying to tell you what to do!

When I take mine out I will have to be very careful. I've been told I can easily get $500 for it because it works so well. So in my case, the Frigidaire will go in real easy but the Norcold coming out might be very tough without damaging it. 


Time to Replace Norcold 1200?
Dr4Film
2 hours ago, Bob Jones said:

When I take mine out I will have to be very careful. I've been told I can easily get $500 for it because it works so well. So in my case, the Frigidaire will go in real easy but the Norcold coming out might be very tough without damaging it. 

My NotSoCold went out through the passenger side salon window and the Samsung came in through the same window. Easy Peasy!

IMG_0727.JPG

IMG_0743.JPG


Ride Height Adjustment '08 Camelot?
Speerfamily

I had called Source Engineering for mine, and he said set them to 9" all around.  I did that but I need to call back though because my front rides almost two inches higher in the front then in the rear - measuring frame to road - and its visible when you stand back and look.  Does everybody else's appear to ride level at least to the naked eye?


Time to Replace Norcold 1200?
Ivylog

Bob, my educated guess is your drain hose doesn’t have a plug in its end… hot air goes up it when traveling.


I resisted going residential because of boondocking and spent way to much money and time on keeping my 1200 going.. even a Amish cooling unit didn’t help all that much. Going residential was the BEST MOD of the many I have done. By adding 2 more batteries and a 100A charger, my generator time REDUCED from 2 hours to slightly more than 1 hour/day.
 

The 15 amps has to be when the ice maker is harvesting the ice…the heater is on as 1 amp is all the compressor draws when running 40% of the time. I’ve done several KW checks and they are in the 1.1-1.3 KW/day range on a 21 cuft Whirlpool and a 20 Jenn Aire… 16 cents/day.

Like the pictures above my 21 Whirlpool came in the driver’s side window off my forklift. It was almost a perfect fit in the 1209 hole… ended up 1/2” to tall so I still had to lower the floor 3/4”, saving the large drawer underneath.

Counter depth units will fit through the door but it’s a tight fit requiring several strong people to get it in. Some remove the passenger seat although we didn’t putting a Samsung in a 2002 Signature.


Rear Floor Latches
tmw188

Where can I order those pop up floor latches on the bedroom floor bump up? 


Rear Floor Latches
Dr4Film

Todd,

Did you first check the Monacoers Parts List?

it has been created exclusively for its members. I strongly suggest that you download the file to your Laptop or phone to have immediate access to all of the information.

Southco will have what you are searching for.


Rear Floor Latches
tmw188

Great, yeah not familiar with all the resources here yet.


Ride Height Adjustment '08 Camelot?
Frank McElroy

Ride heights for many model year coaches are listed in our Parts List.

Sean, For your 2004 Windsor, ride height should be 9.5" front, 11" rear.  This applies to 2000-2004 model year Windsor.  Setting both to 9" would explain why your front looks high compared to the rear.  You might want to give Source Engineering another call.

For the Camelot, 2006 shows 8 13/16" for front and rear.  I asked Tom Cherry for ride height on his 2009 Camelot and he said they also were 8 13/16".  I suspect 2008 will be the same but I'd like someone to confirm this.


LED Conversion of Fluorescent Tubes - READ CAREFULLY... NOT as SIMPLE or CHEAPER??....
ncjimgr

For LED Tubes that will work in coaches go to: http://www.ledrvlighting.com/
Click on the "Monthly Specials" link
and order the T8 color temp you want. These tubes will work with or without the ballast. They are $15.95 ea...

JimG
2006 Camelot


Whirlpool Refrigerator Stopped Working
rpasetto

We discovered the Whirlpool Reefer in the coach was at 70F in both compartments last night.  Seems it just suddenly stopped working.  It seems to be the OEM model (gs2shexns00).   Just now looking over the various diagnostic steps for what could be wrong; some parts, like the Condenser fan, require getting to the back of the refrigerator and I have no idea how to move it out of the cabinet.  THere doesn't seem to be anything bolting it to the floor.  

 

Suggestions will be appreciated.


Whirlpool Refrigerator Stopped Working
Dr4Film

Does it still have power to the fridge and the internal lights still light up?

Unless some member here has the same fridge setup as it came from the factory and sees your post I would also check over on iRV2.com for some guidance and direction on how to unfasten the fridge from its resting place.

Here is one thread from iRV2.com where one person states how it could be secured and removed.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f84/whirlpool-fridge-removal-for-repair-481337.html


Time to Replace Norcold 1200?
cbr046
3 hours ago, Ivylog said:

Bob, my educated guess is your drain hose doesn’t have a plug in its end… hot air goes up it when traveling.

I was thinking of installing a p-trap in the drain hose . . . . or a ping pong ball in the condensate drain (probably too big and drain hole isn't round)

 

12 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

A lot of people think they have to run the generator all the time or spend big money installing solar but I haven't done either plus I can and have boondocked with the best out there.

Details Man, details!  This last trip was 12 hrs driving then 100% boondock, then 21 hrs home.  Not even cell service, AT&T or Verizon!  Yes, I could have run the generator on the road . . . . at $1.50 / hr (it's more the principal than the cost). 

A major issue would be removing the old 1200 out of the coach.  Physical muscle is hard to come by, I don't have access to a fork lift and no idea how to remove a window (which is probably the easiest part), but replacing the cooling unit inside the coach is within my grasp. 

- bob


Time to Replace Norcold 1200?
jacwjames

In the past we would normally have to run our generator some anyway, and if it was hot out the generator would be running all the time even when driving to keep the dogs cool.    This was with the Norcold, which operated poorly, no telling how much food we wasted over the years, more then enough to offset more generator time with the Samsung installed. 

I was expecting to have to run the generator more with the Samsung installed.  But this last trip traveling solo I could get by with running the generator a minimal amount.  A couple days my 325 watt of solar could actually keep up.  As long as my batteries were at ~90% when I went to bed the lasted all night and were +75% in the AM.  If it was sunny the batteries would start recovering pretty quickly and maintain until night.  If cloudy I'd have to run the generator ~1-2 hours.  Really didn't see a big difference in the amount of generator time. 

This fall/winter I'll hopefully be taking a longer trip.   With reduced sun light generator time may be higher. 


Slide room lock
Art Perrone

My '07 Dynasty has 4 hydraulic slides but only the DS front has a lock on the outside that "operates" when the slide is totally closed.  When the slide is closed a lever on the bottom is pushed out and a bar on the top moves up on the inside apparently locking the slide room so that the top cannot move out.  They are on the outside of the room with a black plastic cover over the mechanism from top to bottom riveted with plastic rivets. This slide is not the longest nor the heaviest but has these locks, (one on front and one on rear) while the other 3 slides do not have any locks.  My question:  Do I need these locks and has anyone removed them? The plastic rivets keep breaking and now the mechanism is coming apart and the machine screws inside holding the base plate and other parts have fallen out and been lost or are stripped.  This has become a big problem to repair and I don't see a reason for this lock.  Any input will be appreciated. Thank you in advance.

Happy Motoring,

Art Perrone


Repairing a Generator Slide
tmw188

What about a drifting slide? Mine will drift out some while driving. I notice another MH going down the highway the other day and his slide was out probably 8”. Is this a weak valve.


Time to Replace Norcold 1200?
Dr4Film
18 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

Details Man, details!  This last trip was 12 hrs driving then 100% boondock, then 21 hrs home.  Not even cell service, AT&T or Verizon!  Yes, I could have run the generator on the road . . . . at $1.50 / hr (it's more the principal than the cost). 

A major issue would be removing the old 1200 out of the coach.  Physical muscle is hard to come by, I don't have access to a fork lift and no idea how to remove a window (which is probably the easiest part), but replacing the cooling unit inside the coach is within my grasp.

I don't run the generator UNLESS it is SO hot & humid outside that the dash AC can't keep us cool and comfortable while driving. The Inverter powers the fridge to keep it at temperature while driving and also while parked. When the set of house batteries get to 50% SOC then the AGS kicks in and starts the generator to charge the batteries back to Float SOC.

Plus when boondocking we never run the microwave, coffeemaker, hair dryer, shop vacuum or anything that draws a lot of amp's on the Inverter/batteries. Just not good for the device or the batteries. So we will start the generator when using those devices. Any time the generator is running the house & chassis batteries are being charged.

I always say, "do as you want, whatever makes you a Happy Camper", however I will always correct people who are misinformed about generator usage and boondocking with a residential fridge. As I stated previously, I can boondock right alongside with the best boondockers out there and still enjoy the benefits of having a residential fridge to keep our food fresh and cold and our frozen foods REALLY frozen. And do all of that WITHOUT having to run the generator 100% of the time.


Time to Replace Norcold 1200?
Chuck B

Nothing is being said about the Norcold class action law suit.  We full-time for 8 years with a Norcold 1200 LRIM frig.  Looking back, the biggest expense was the numerous trips to the grocery store for food because the Norcold was limited in space to hold only a few days supply.  I posted all the so called fixes to try to keep it running safe.  If I had to do it all over again, the Norcold would have been the first thing I would push out the front door.  I was able to recover some of the expense by attaching my name to the class lawsuit.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor

If you had a Norcold (certain models etc) you could opt into the lawsuit. Since my Norcold (which failed twice) was one I joined. The payout was somewhere around $1100, payable July 1st every year for three/four years. This was the final check of $113 plus some change


Slide room lock
Chuck B

The reason for the lock is to keep the slide from opening during transit.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Slide room lock
Ivan K
7 minutes ago, Chuck B said:

The reason for the lock is to keep the slide from opening during transit.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor

When did they start with the locks? Our 00 does not have it and it got a hydraulic slide for living room and kitchen. I suppose it was an afterthought after an incident? 


Whirlpool Refrigerator Stopped Working
Mocephus
1 hour ago, rpasetto said:

We discovered the Whirlpool Reefer in the coach was at 70F in both compartments last night.  Seems it just suddenly stopped working.  It seems to be the OEM model (gs2shexns00).   Just now looking over the various diagnostic steps for what could be wrong; some parts, like the Condenser fan, require getting to the back of the refrigerator and I have no idea how to move it out of the cabinet.  THere doesn't seem to be anything bolting it to the floor.  

 

Suggestions will be appreciated.

Hi Rick, I had to replace a leaking water valve on my Whirlpool and thought I’d never get the refrigerator out of the cabinet. It was not bolted to the floor at all. It was secured at the top by the cabinet trim piece and a metal flange. It was VERY hard to get out of the cabinet because it had fiberglass insulation wedged on each side making it extremely tight. I had to have someone push from the back while I pulled from the front.


Slide room lock
Chuck B

Not a afterthought, but a design change from a hydraulic slide motor to a 12 vdc motor used to operate the slide.  Monaco did not piece part the slide lock.  If you needed to replace a part, you had to spring for the whole slide lock which was sold in pairs.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Slide room lock
Frank McElroy

On your 07 Dynasty, two of the hydraulic slides use the equivalent of a scissor jack on each side and this is connected to the full wall of the coach and sidewall from top to bottom.  Hydraulic pressure holds in these slides.

On the other slide where the floor drops to near level, the arms on the slide bottom pivot slightly.  So, when the slide is retracted, you need a mechanism to hold in the top.  That's what these side mechanisms are doing and they only work when the slide is fully in.  So, they really are not slide locks.  If you lose hydraulic pressure the slide will come out on its own.

These side mechanisms MUST be oiled.  By hand you should be able to push on the bottom tab to move out the top mechanism.

If you were to remove these side mechanisms that hold in the slide top, it is unlikely you would be able to maintain a top water tight seal and under certain driving conditions the top of this slide would tip out.  These mechanisms service an important function and they need to work properly.


Repairing a Generator Slide
Ivylog

Trash in the valve lets oil by. Try cycling the slide several time to move the trash (often Teflon tape) somewhere else.


Time to Replace Norcold 1200?
Chuck B

This is what the judge said about the recall, 

Last week, after four years of waiting, Judge Stanton approved a newly structured $36 million deal. “The Court finds the settlement to be fair, reasonable, and adequate,” she wrote, “and accordingly OVERRULES all objections and GRANTS final approval of the settlement.” This authorization came with a 25% allocation of the gross payment to the attorneys and an “aggregate repair or replacement cost” of up to $7,500 to each of the named plaintiffs. The agreement states that on average the owners of the 1200 Series will be getting $824 and the N6 and N8 owners will receive $164 each. Kurtzman Carson Consultants, the claims administrator, is slated to receive $2 million.

The initial recall of Norcold’s 1200 model was limited to a small batch, but has since been expanded to all 1200, 1201, 1210 and 1211 series refrigerators so that a “High Temperature Sensor” can be installed to prevent a fire from spontaneously igniting. According to the Thetford Corporation’s recall website, “Even if your refrigerator was repaired as part of a previous recall, it is necessary to have it repaired again to minimize the risk of injury or death due to fire.” Consumers with a defective Norcold product have been advised to turn off their refrigerators and contact the company immediately.

Source: http://consumerwatch.com/


Whirlpool Refrigerator Stopped Working
rpasetto
45 minutes ago, Mocephus said:

Hi Rick, I had to replace a leaking water valve on my Whirlpool and thought I’d never get the refrigerator out of the cabinet. It was not bolted to the floor at all. It was secured at the top by the cabinet trim piece and a metal flange. It was VERY hard to get out of the cabinet because it had fiberglass insulation wedged on each side making it extremely tight. I had to have someone push from the back while I pulled from the front.

Thanks for the info on removal.  Hopefully I won't have to do that.  I removed the outside access panel and found loose fiberglass behind the refrigerator and some dropping down towards the coil area below.  Underneath was extremely dusty; I did a first pass vacuuming underneath; went to take a break as I write this now.  Plugged the reefer in and it looks likes it's started cooling.  there's a lot of dust (probably some fiberglass shreds too) underneath which I will go back to removing with a refrigerator coil brush I now have and more vacuuming.  I will eventually make a semi rigid foam block to secure the reefer compartment.  [No way will I put loose fill fiberglass back in there.]

So if it works reliably after all the airflow blocking dust is removed, I may not need to pull it out to test components in the rear.  It looks like the evaporator fan & motor are accessible from inside the freezer compartment but repair to Condenser fan, motor capacitor and other parts require rear access.


Slide room lock
Ivan K
50 minutes ago, Chuck B said:

Not a afterthought, but a design change from a hydraulic slide motor to a 12 vdc motor used to operate the slide.  Monaco did not piece part the slide lock.  If you needed to replace a part, you had to spring for the whole slide lock which was sold in pairs.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor

Well, our Sig slide operates by 2 hydraulic cylinders (with an equalizer in between) and does not have lock provisions. Not even on the inside as it goes in along a wall. I had it creep out once when cylinder leaked and had to close the valves to keep it in by the good cylinder. Maybe they did not put locks on the shallow slides back then... and I really don't care for it as there is no way I would not notice it creeping in the mirror.


Time to Replace Norcold 1200?
Bob Jones
7 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

My NotSoCold went out through the passenger side salon window and the Samsung came in through the same window. Easy Peasy!

IMG_0727.JPG

 

Sure...now where did I put that forklift...? I had it just the other day! 🙂


Neglected maintenance
Norman Austin

I bought my 2004 Holiday Rambler Neptune from an elderly gentleman a month ago. If I wasn't in such a hurry to find somewhere to live after selling my house (I only had 6 days to move out) I would have given this MH a wide berth. But I was totally green and now I have a huge learning curve.

Practically everything has been left half done and a lot of parts have either been removed or are not working properly.

Norco fridge doesn't run on AC despite AC being available. The inverter was removed and replaced by a converter. The Central Vacuum was removed. Ice-maker removed. No flexible soil pipe. Generator doesn't run. Fuel gauge not working. One of the leveling jacks was jammed so I replaced it with a new one. Solar panel doesn't do anything. The exhaust brake doesn't seem to function, drivers windshield is cracked, Etc etc. AAARRRRGGGHHHHH!

The bit I am currently concerned with... The four house batteries took 1.5 gallons of distilled water to top up, so I guess they need replacing... which leads me to the battery compartment. It is a total nightmare with disconnected wires everywhere and odd wires simply cut off and left. The guy just gave up half way through jobs and I have no idea where all these spurious wires are supposed to connect. There are a bunch of heavy duty wires left unconnected in the inverter compartment so I guess they will be needed if I buy a new inverter.

So... I have been advised to drive the MH to Eugene in Oregon to find some place where they would know where things go and buy some new parts. Can anyone recommend a company I can take it to to try and sort out this mess, Since that is where Monaco were originally based? I think the first thing will be for me to buy a new inverter, house batteries and solar panel/s.

Any suggestions gratefully appreciated.

(PS. I paid $33,500 which I thought at the time was a bargain. Was I had?)


Neglected maintenance
rogers59

Where are you located at?


Neglected maintenance
JDCrow

I paid 32k for  my 02 Diplomat 34, with a rotting floor. 
 

I agree, where are you located? Brian in Coburg Or and he used to work for Country Coach and just quit premiere RV and does freelance work and consulting. He can point you in the right direction. 
 

I think if you want to tackle it, you can get most of it figured out just by being here, and YouTube will be your biggest friend. 
 

I have a mod thread for my coach, and while there are many, many more that know more than me, I am more than happy to help where I can. 
 

https://youtube.com/channel/UCk1GlrzcUB_kVQQiK4WvlOg

 

https://youtube.com/c/AZExpert

 

 

 


Neglected maintenance
Bob Jones

I think you would be better off ingratiating yourself with knowledgeable RV'ers 🙂 Paying someone outright (like a shop) to fix all of that would be big bucks. If you're lucky, it could easily be a lot of small things - you just have to get it back to stock. I've seen people like that before and had a vehicle (or two) like that before. Many times all it took was getting it back to stock (fixing what the person 'fixing' it did) and then determining what the real issue was....and properly fixing it. So it might not be that bad. 

With any RV purchase, you have to budget in spending dollars to address stuff. Batteries are so common to replace you might as well just add them to the budget right away. Trojan makes good ones. In the US you can usually get a good deal on an inverter from Magnum. You'd be surprised how much you can do with a couple thousands bucks if you're willing to do some work.


Neglected maintenance
ncsteve

I learned a valuable lessen on my first 40’ Monaco DP by not knowing enough about them and trusting the seller. Although it was not near the issues you appear to have, it had a lot of hidden ones, wiring, inverter, air leaks, air valves, microwave, satellite, to name a few. But, i was only in to it for $22k and got all my money back plus repairs and my labor when I sold it. I was very thankful as it could have been an expensive lesson instead of a lesson learned.
The 04’ I now own was a one owner with all service records on everything that has been done to it along with all manuals. I verified that the rear control arms had been replaced as they would fail eventually, and they had.  Also learned to verify everything worked as it should prior to purchasing it as well as the age of the tires. This DP cost a couple thousand more than the one you purchased.
My opinion is you paid a little more fir it than you should have considering the issues.

I am not sure where you could take it unfortunately, but will say with a little search effort on the net and these sites, you should be able to find all the info you need to do the repairs yourself and save dumping thousands more into the rig with labor cost.

good luck,  keep us posted on the progress and ask away with any questions. There is so much knowledge and information on the site and the great folks are always willing to help.

27 minutes ago, rogers59 said:

Where are you located at?

 BIO says Neotsu, Oregon


Onan 12.5 Generator shuts down on engine start-up
Mike Wahl

I was able to spend a little time last night working on my Generator.  I had it shut down once over the weekend for over-temp with the single flash of the light.  While it was running I could hear the fan belt squealing occasionally.  I was able to tighten the fan belt and washed out the radiator.  I will see if this fixes that issue.

I then started the generator and after it was warmed up started the engine and the generator shut down.   I shut down engine and restarted the generator and then started the engine with the battery boost switch on and it didn't shut down.   I forgot my good meter at work yesterday so tonight I can check battery and also do a DC amp draw on the starter. 

Ivan, from your post I'm wondering if its the engine starter drawing heavy amps.   The starter is an original and it looks like it had give problems in the past and someone used the old hit it was a hammer trick to get it engage.  I can't find anywhere in the documentation that it was fixed.  I found this when I was doing engine maintance last month.  I have a new Denso Heavy Duty Starter 428000-4420 on order that should be here this week.    The Denso is a gear reduction starter verse a direct drive in the original Delco starter.

I will also check out the battery's.  They are getting the age of replacement so that could also be an issue. 

Ivan, Do you know at what DC Voltage the generator shuts down?


LED Conversion of Fluorescent Tubes - READ CAREFULLY... NOT as SIMPLE or CHEAPER??....
Tom Cherry

Jim,

Thanks.  I clicked and then did an Amazon search. About the same price. If I had to GUESS, I would say that these will work better (maybe mandatory from the Amazon ratings and questions) after you bypass the Ballast. Some folks were not happy as these are more "focused", even though frosted and do not give off a "general" or totally diffused light....such as what I require as my lights are all overhead...

https://www.amazon.com/Fulight-Rotatable-Equivalent-Daylight-Double-End/dp/B01JINP28E/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=12v%2Bled%2Brotatable%2B18"%2Btube&qid=1629912818&sr=8-2&th=1

I decided to invest in two new fluorescent bulbs as the ones that are suspect are dimming.  I have found from experience that if you replace them in pairs, they seem to work. If one if a little dimmer and the other is gone or really dim, I throw the bad one away and "store" the not so bad in an unused fixture....and then I can use it in an emergency....

If someone is getting a full 700 Lumens (the Fluorescent standard for an F15T8) .....as well as what is advertised for these from an ARRAY....I would appreciate the info and the review...


Neglected maintenance
Norman Austin

Thanks guys. It's the electrical stuff that worries me... I don't want to set the whole thing on fire, so I'll look for professional help for that.

I'm currently living in Ashland, Oregon. If there was a specialist nearby that would be good but have been advised to take it to Eugene.

JD, do you have contact info for Brian in Coburg Or?


Neglected maintenance
just_john1

Cool! Welcome to the world of DIY motor homing. First thing, is see if you can find he manuals for your bus. I was lucky and got 2 complete set with mine. I posted them on this site. Slow down and take your time. There is help a plenty out there and don't be afraid to ask questions. good luck.

Just_John

97 dynasty 40'


Neglected maintenance
JDCrow
7 minutes ago, Norman Austin said:

Thanks guys. It's the electrical stuff that worries me... I don't want to set the whole thing on fire, so I'll look for professional help for that.

I'm currently living in Ashland, Oregon. If there was a specialist nearby that would be good but have been advised to take it to Eugene.

JD, do you have contact info for Brian in Coburg Or?

Do you Instagram?

The top link in my last post takes you to his YouTube page as well 

https://instagram.com/brianmoto773?utm_medium=copy_link

 

about Brian 

 

23D72692-2913-4BFF-B1FE-5FE59265BB92.jpeg


2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
JDCrow

Ok had to crack the box open 

0CEFE6D9-F2F0-42C7-ABA0-C9BBF0ED908C.jpeg


Onan 12.5 Generator shuts down on engine start-up
Ivan K

Mike, I have never found low DC voltage limit (there is only a high DC code) so I can't tell. The microprocessor probably runs on 5v but fuel actuator gets the full voltage, who knows how the voltage regulation is done. I think your 'boost test' confirms the suspected situation so you know where to look from here. Your starter could be out of norm as you mentioned too. I am curious what you will find out when you do the measurements, sounds like you got a good handle on it.


Neglected maintenance
waterskier_1

If you can't do 90% or more of the work yourself, you should consider selling this.  The electrical alone could cost $1,000s in new parts and labor.  Paying someone to replace a detective component is one thing, but rewiring when you have know idea what has been sabotaged is quite different.   These coaches were wired before cabinets and such were installed and access to the original wiring runs is often impracticable.  The only way repairing a coach like this is if you can and want to put your time and effort into it, unless it has some special sentimental or collector value.  


Trouble in Maine
Mike in Va

Woke up this morning in Bucksport Ma wanting to head back to Virginia and when I started the Motorhome, 2001 Holiday Rambler Ambassador 5.9 cummins, and  my "Trans Check" light came on.  I read the codes on my scan gague D, then called scan gague and they said the code showed a "voltage below normal or shorted high". I have checked the batteries and both sides show 13.8 to 14 volts. Took apart and cleaned all connections to the transmission and checked the NEW alternator. Everything checks out. I had to drive it around 1/4 mile to another camp site and the trans shifted to 2nd and 3rd no problem.  After cleaning and checking everything I cancelled the code, now no more codes show up but the "trans light" still comes on after 15 seconds of starting the engine. Tried to get a portable shop to come take a look but they can't make it anytime soon. Need to get back home. Any suggestions?  It have the allison 2100 transmission so no pad available to read any codes  May have to make a run for it with the light on if I can"t come up with something. Thanks    


Slide room lock
jacwjames

My 2002 Windsor has these locks, they are DeWald locks.  There is a file in the Downloads section under the slides folder. 

In the past the recommendation for lubrication was to spray superlube down from the top, which I did about every other year.  Others suggested putting a tub underneath and pouring a quart of oil down. 

Earlier this year I decided to take them off, clean, lubricate and reinstall.  Mine are a little different in that there is a screw at the top that holds the whole lock down.  I removed the slide, used a piece of 2X4 and hammer, and loosened the lock and lifter off.  Underneath there is a SS plate that the lock actually mates to.  After removing from the side of the slide I put on the workbench and used a very small allen wrench to remover a bunch of machined screws that held he cover on.  Underneath there was a serices of pulleys and springs that connect to the locking arms, which pivot on bushing.  I completely cleaned the mechanism and then sprayed down each roller and springs with a lubricant.  Put everything back together and remounted to the side of the motorhome.   Then tested by using a large crescent wrench on the locking arm.

After doing this I'm pretty much convinced that spraying and/or pouring oil down form the top is futile as there is little chance of it getting where it needs to be. 

 

 


Neglected maintenance
Scott 61

Call Elite RV there in Harrisburg Oregon these guys are good they're ex Monaco guys. 541 995-4767


Time to Replace Norcold 1200?
cbr046

Absorption cooling unit replacement - JC Refrigeration or RV Cooling . . . which is better and why?

JC Refrigeration https://jc-refrigeration.com/product/norcold-1200-gas-elect-unit/  $1095 + $250 shipping

RV Cooling https://rvcoolingunit.com/1200-Norcold-Brand-New-Cooling-Unit-built-by-the-Amish-P13259.aspx $1155 + $? shipping

They both use thicker tubing and same number of (re-absorption?) coils.

- bob


Time to Replace Norcold 1200?
Bob Jones

If you're going that route I would suggest stepping up a little further to the Helium filled units. Your fridge will be lighter! 🙂


Time to Replace Norcold 1200?
cbr046
7 minutes ago, Bob Jones said:

If you're going that route I would suggest stepping up a little further to the Helium filled units. Your fridge will be lighter! 🙂

Fire free but not for the sunny South!  If the temp doesn't kill you the humidity will!

- bob


LED Conversion of Fluorescent Tubes - READ CAREFULLY... NOT as SIMPLE or CHEAPER??....
Tom Cherry

OK....curiosity is a plague....worse than COVID....here is what I have found.....

Amazon is the cheapest for the F15T8 18" Tubes. Camco (RV Supplier) has a twin pack (2) for $14 and Lowes is $9 or so....EACH.

Amazon also has a bulk pack of SIX (6) of  the 12" tubes for $14.  Lowes is $9 or so EACH.  Guess what I just ordered?

OK.....BUT, I also got curious....and I would like for the "LED ARRAY CONVERSION" folks to chime in here.

What type of Array do you use....

An 18" Two fixture F15 T8 will deliver 1400 Lumens (700 X 2 bulbs).  An 12" two fixture F8T5 will deliver 800 Lumens (400 X 2).

Some of the ones that I looked at would require TWO STRIPS per Tube reflector or 4 strips per total fixture....as the max was 330 Lumens per foot. 
So, if you have some specifics...that would be great.  OTHERWISE, please comment on my calculations. The 330 Lumens were higher....so I found one that was close and MUCH cheaper....

https://www.ledsupply.com/led-strips/non-waterproof-12v-led-strips

These are the ones that I think would work. Two strips....side by side would be about 3/4" wide and fit on the reflectors above the 1" diameter tubes....so that WORKS...

NOW....the rated Lumens per Ft (converted from 1050 Lumens per Meter) for the 60's is 325 Lumens per foot.  OK....you need 1400 Lumens....so you need 4.31 ft or 52".  Divided by 4 strips would be 13". OPPS....these can be cut in 2" lengths....but you can solder leads and keep going....  Has to be a number divided by 2....

14" would be the length for each of the 4 strips required per fixture.  so you need 56" per fixture....and the light output would be (56" divided by 12) based on 4.66 Ft or 1517 lumens ( 4.67 X 325). SO, you have about 8% MORE light.....COOL...

The 12" is as follows....  400 X 2 tubes = 800 lumens.  Divided by 325 = 2.46 Ft or 30 inches. OPPS.... got to be divided by 4....so 8" would be the length for all 4 strips

Lumen would be 2.67 Ft X 325 Lumens per foot or 868 Lumens or again, about 8% more light..

Therefore....I have FOUR 18's and FOUR 12's....  4 X 56" = 224" or 18.67 Ft

Now....for the 12's....have FOUR also....  4 X 32" = 128" or 10.67 Ft.   NOW, I need a total of 29.34 ft....or 8.94 Meters.....

They come in 5 Meter or 16.4 FT....I need TWO reels....or $80 worth of strips.

I BELIEVE I can solder wire leads (#18 or 20 would work FINE....maybe smaller....but I like reasonable sized leads). I can use the Blue ScotchLok connections and do a flying tap on each lead (positive and negative) in the fixture or I can cut and use wire nuts....I will need to clip the Positive Lead to the Ballast to shut it down....but I can leave the slide switch in place...

Comments, Corrections.....

Hope this is of value.....


Whirlpool Refrigerator Stopped Working
Dr4Film

Part of the routine maintenance for residential fridges no matter whether they are in a stick&brick house or a motorcoach is to vacuum the bottom of the fridge area both front and rear especially the coil area every few months to remove dust, hair and debris that prevents the flow of air over the coils and motor area.

In a house usually the fridge can be easily rolled out to clean but in a motorcoach  that's not possible.

I purchased a special tool that goes onto our vacuum that reaches all the way to the back and sides of the fridge from the front. I also remove the old outside vent cover and the rear access fridge cover to vacuum back there too.

https://www.ezvacuum.com/flexible-crevice-tool-for-all-vacuum-hoses-36-p-6452.html


Trouble in Maine
Romeo84

You said you read the codes through your ecm or scan gauge.  Did u check the transmission selector for trouble codes?


Trouble in Maine
Mike in Va

The 2100 doesn't have a trans pad to be able to read codes. I have a hand shifter instead of the push button. Thanks  


Trouble in Maine
Romeo84

Well bummer sorry


Creating the Toad
JDCrow

Suspension done, bumper, cruise radar relocation and lights left. Might go up a size in tire and will need an alignment 

5376C9D8-7A1D-4D0C-ADF6-A6E892AA2AB5.jpeg


Trouble in Maine
tmw188

I would just go for it with those codes. Change your SGD to monitor battery voltage and Trans Temp. If it shifts good why not? Check the level down the rd for the hell of it and head back. 


Trouble in Maine
Mike in Va

I show 14.1 volts once the engine is running and I installed an inline trans temp gague from glow shift because this year rig didn't send that info through the ecu. My wife has been real good through all of this but not sure what one more day of delay will cause. Thanks for the input.   


Trouble in Maine
tmw188

You might try disconnecting the chassis battery for a few minutes. What’s your concerns? 


Neglected maintenance
JDCrow

Brian just created a website 

 

http://coachsolutions-rv.com


LED Conversion of Fluorescent Tubes - READ CAREFULLY... NOT as SIMPLE or CHEAPER??....
Ivylog

 I have not had good luck with the LED strips… many chips stop working in a couple hundred hours. I have a light fixture over the sink with three of 18” fluorescent in it plus another four fluorescent elsewhere. Now that they have some age on them I'm replacing a bulb every couple months so decided to change one over to LED using 48 SMD 5050 LED Panels. Drilled the four pop rivets out to remove the guts of the Fluorescent. There were two ridges that holds the metal cover over these guts. By finding a small enough wire I was able to slide the wire into these notches making for a neat way to hold the wires that power the LED panels. I put four of the LED panels in (peal and stick after cleaning alum surface) and used the existing switch and 12v wires. I would say four LED panels put out the same amount of light as the two 15W bulbs. While I had the cover off the fixture, I drilled a hole under each switch in the translucent plastic panels so I can turn each on/off without taking the cover off. This will let me use just the new LEDs (while boondocking) or one or both of the fluorescent. 
Sorry... No pictures but sliding the new wires into the notches and putting the four LED panels where the guts came from made for a neat and simple DIY project. I would space the four panels evenly over the 18" starting with one at each end. 


Trouble in Maine
Mike in Va

I've only owned the coach for 10 months and with the trans light on I just don't want to hurt the trans. Still learning how to interpred all the info its putting out. 


Trouble in Maine
tmw188

I’m no expert, if it’s shifting ok and the fluid and temp is ok after what you’ve already done, there’s nothing else IMO you can do at this point. 


Trouble in Maine
Mike in Va

I agree, Just looking for something I may have forgotten. Looks like southbound in the morning. Thanks for the help.  


Water pump indicator light
Joe Lee

I needed this too!

Thanks Ivan!!!


Aquahot AHE-100-02s leaking coolant at filler neck
Poohbear
On 8/22/2021 at 5:19 PM, joefromperry said:

I have my aquahot pulled out of my 2003 signature because of a coolant leak that I couldn't find; what a pain. Anyway, with the boiler full of regular water and both manifold valves turned off, I pressurized the system through first the overflow with regular cap on to around 13 lbs, and then again with a mity-vac radiator cap pressure adapter. I had some leakage around the filler neck. I heated the neck with a propane torch, and the top just came off easily with no persuasion. I was surprised to see there's only maybe 1/8 inch of overlap for the solder. So, I cleaned both surfaces very well, thinking it'll be easy to resolder. However, I must be missing something, because the top will not solder to the neck. Dissimilar metals? Probably going to head to my radiator shop to see if he can do anything, bur first, any suggestions?

 One is doing the exact same thing , been wanting to pull it out but have been putting it off. 


Fuel gauge not working
Norman Austin

I just read in the owners manual that if there is water in the bottom of the fuel tank then the fuel gauge will read maximum (over the full mark) and stay there.

This is what's happening on my fuel gauge. The guy I bought it off told me that sometimes it reads correctly. I'm thinking that that might used to have been the case but in time more water has got into the tank.

I'm arranging for the tank to be drained and will report back my findings. The manual also stated that 90% of senders that are returned to the manufacturer show no faults when bench tested.


Whirlpool Refrigerator Stopped Working
rpasetto
2 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Part of the routine maintenance for residential fridges no matter whether they are in a stick&brick house or a motorcoach is to vacuum the bottom of the fridge area both front and rear especially the coil area every few months to remove dust, hair and debris that prevents the flow of air over the coils and motor area.

In a house usually the fridge can be easily rolled out to clean but in a motorcoach  that's not possible.

I purchased a special tool that goes onto our vacuum that reaches all the way to the back and sides of the fridge from the front. I also remove the old outside vent cover and the rear access fridge cover to vacuum back there too.

https://www.ezvacuum.com/flexible-crevice-tool-for-all-vacuum-hoses-36-p-6452.html

Thank you.  Funny you should mention that, Richard.  A few hours ago my wife found a similar crevice tool and I ordered it.

Earlier today, I went out to the coach and removed the refrig. bottom panel to find an unbelievable mat of dust covering the coils underneath.  My bad, I should have done this when I bought the coach last year.  

As @Moecephus reported about his, the refrigerator is packed in fiberglass mat at the sides.   Much of the "dust" I removed from the coils was likely bits of fiberglass.  I removed most from the rear at the outside access panel,  It will be replaced with a sheet of semi-rigid insulation just to seal the coach inside ... If I ever need to pull the refrigerator out that fiberglass batting will go too.  Surprised to find it there.  Given that both our coaches have the same... it seems like it was there from the factory;  yet most refrigerator mfgrs specify an inch or so of airspace at sides and top of reefer.    Oh well, live and learn.


Whirlpool Refrigerator Stopped Working
Dr4Film
43 minutes ago, rpasetto said:

If I ever need to pull the refrigerator out that fiberglass batting will go too.  Surprised to find it there.  Given that both our coaches have the same... it seems like it was there from the factory;  yet most refrigerator mfgrs specify an inch or so of airspace at sides and top of reefer.    Oh well, live and learn.

I am surprised that it was there also as the fridge needs to ventilate on the sides top and bottom. Maybe it was prepped for a NotSoCold RV Type fridge and they just slipped the residential into the same place without removing the insulation. That would be typical of the Monaco assembly tech's.


Neglected maintenance
Norman Austin

Thanks again guys. 2 recommendations for Elite in Harrisburg... I'll give them a shout. I also sent an email to Brian Van De Walker.

I'll do what I can personally but get the electrical done by the experts.


Fuel gauge not working
Gary Cole

Norman, One day you are going to find yourself in the ranks of the respected RV masters when you overcome this latest challenge life has blessed you with. Then you will find yourself attending to the tired, the poor, the hungry, those of whose wives have hidden all sharp objects from.


Whirlpool Refrigerator Stopped Working
rpasetto

@dr4film, ... or maybe they were still in the not-cold mentality of sealing the reefer up.

Maybe we will hear from others with these early Whirlpool installations.


Trouble in Maine
redstickbill

Mike,

Have you called Allison?

Bill B 07 Dynasty


Trouble in Maine
tmw188
1 hour ago, Mike in Va said:

I agree, Just looking for something I may have forgotten. Looks like southbound in the morning. Thanks for the help.  

Did you disconnect the chassis battery to see if that would clear your dash indicator?


Fuel gauge not working
Norman Austin

I never imagined these things could be so complicated. When I lived in the UK I had a home conversion Mercedes RV similar, though a little bigger than the one in the pic. I never had to do anything to it except empty the cassette toilet. Bliss! This is certainly a steep learning curve. That Mercedes took me from North West Scotland (Isle of Skye) to southern Spain and back several times. The only problem I ever had was a blown tire. I eventually sold it for more than I paid. That'll be hard to achieve with the Monaco - lol.

Mercedes Snapon.jpg


Neglected maintenance
woodylmiller

Welcome to the club.  Coburg Oregon is your friend.  MANY of the guys are still around there.  The REV shop in Coburg is top notch in my book, they've helped me a lot, fixed my Kongsberg Chassis Multiplex, which for 6 months and many shops I was told it could never be fixed.  There is another shop with some of the old Monaco guys and I believe the name is "Armstrong", not sure since we have never used them but one of the old Monaco guys at REV told me about them and their shop rate is more reasonable.  You have a mess to be sure.  We bought our coach with almost nothing in the way of records.  Stuff re-wired and re-plumbed with no documentation.  On our way home from buying the coach the Power Gear leveling system began to "beep".  The generator quit working.  The chassis and house batteries were almost dead.  We traveled from Texas to Washington state listening to the "beep", did get the generator going.

Long story short, if you like the floorplan and your engine is good, fix it, they don't make them like that anymore.  Expensive?  You bet.  The more you can do yourself the better.  You couldn't give me a brand new coach unless it's a Foretravel, Prevost or Newell.  Oh, Marathon is also in Coburg if you wanted to trade up, but you'll need about $2 million.  Good luck.

Woody Miller

09 Dynasty Regal IV


Ride Height Adjustment '08 Camelot?
woodylmiller

Thanks Frank.

Woody Miller


Neglected maintenance
Norman Austin
15 minutes ago, woodylmiller said:

Marathon is also in Coburg if you wanted to trade up, but you'll need about $2 million.  Good luck.

...Thanks Woody, that gives me more faith in this contraption. Who knows, maybe I'll customize it one day if i feel the 300hp Cummins is good enough.


Rear Floor Latches
pwhittle

Do they look like this?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JQDLS8G

These are chrome.

Paul


Rear Floor Latches
tmw188

Somewhat except I don’t have a key, but a 1/4 turn Phillips. I only need one but I might be able to repair it too. 
Thanks


TCM Location
Darren A.

I’m having trouble locating the TCM on my 2004 Holiday Rambler Navigator any idea? 


Stuck Drawer
windsorbill06
On 8/22/2021 at 12:25 PM, FishAR said:

I got the drawer above the stuck drawer out of the way. Got the stuck drawer open. The glides are seriously binding up. I get it out of there and I can work on freeing them up. One lever is causing me a problem.

Consider just replacing the hardware.  HD, Lowes or ACE should have the correct one.  Take the old one with you.  Self close is NOT important because it won't lock the drawer closed.  You'll still need to give it a final push to lock it in place.


TCM Location
vito.a

It's attached to the main basement compartment ceiling under a felt covered plywood cover.  The HWH level control and inverter are also there.  


LED Conversion of Fluorescent Tubes - READ CAREFULLY... NOT as SIMPLE or CHEAPER??....
Doug K

I have replaced all my tubes with these from M4 Lighting. They are not cheap, but I have been very pleased with the results. You do an easy rewire and eliminate the ballast. https://m4products.com/t8-18tube-nw-f15t8-natural-white-18-t8-led-tube-light-12v-4500k-t8-120-3528-18-nw/
 


Show me you have good friends
JDCrow

Show me you have good friends, without saying you have good friends 

8F9C0C3A-5AA0-4EA0-874F-8DD1139203C9.jpeg


Show me you have good friends
Rikadoo

Yeah good friends are importantB084865C-6917-47C8-B4DB-9285FE939827.thumb.jpeg.486e9cebaa0d23e0de6029f4a7496335.jpeg


Odd Inverter Issue..
Bob Jones

I'm going to declare victory on this one 🙂  The inverter has been working perfectly, the issue with it dropping the outlets has not come back (fingers crossed) but it's very clear that the inverter's operation has changed. In fact, it's changed a lot!

I know that the relay contacts are now clean but I have to say, I think the ultrasonic cleaning did a real number on it. There was a lot of dust and sand in there, no doubt from Palm Desert and the Sonoran (?) desert? My parents spent 3 months a year at FOY for many years (almost 20?) and the unit also spent time in Mexico somewhere, along with AZ and other places with sand and wind. There was also tiny particles in there that looked like magnetized iron filings stuck to things. Anyway...

I've noticed some changes, most of them seem to be with the charging circuit?

  • Absorption stage now works. In the past, if it went into absorption it would only be for a few minutes. Often it skipped the stage entirely because the bulk charge voltage seemed to get the battery volts too high. This was deemed normal by others in the know when I last asked about it.
  • The interior lights (all 12v) seem to be consistent in light output. They used to be dim at times and bright at others and it really bugged me. I suspect this also tracks back to the charge circuit keeping the batteries at a constant level.
  • The bathroom fan used to speed up a great deal when I turned off the light in the bathroom or the lights at the vanity. Now it stays at the same speed.
  • Once the batteries are fully charged the panel indicator lights no longer flicker all the time between charge and float (regardless of 12v load). They now spend 90% of their time locked on Float with the voltage locked as well. Ie, the voltage is stable. Really stable. 
  • The inverter used to buzz a lot. Now, when the batteries are full and stabilized, it's silent. I put my ear right on the unit and still could not hear anything.

The ultrasonic cleaning removed all the dirt & debris and I know it cleans all the contacts and solder points. These are just my observations, nothing scientific, but from what I'm seeing, the operation has changed a lot. Stable and consistent are the words that come to mind. 

Almost forgot one. Because the voltage on the panel is now so stable I saw yesterday that it was at 13.0 volts and when the ambient temp got colder it went up to 13.50. You could never 'see' the battery temperature compensation work before because the lights indicating the voltage were so sporadic and all over the place.

Anyway, just wanted to give up an update after a few days. If the original complaint (dropping inverter outlets when there is shore power present) comes back, I'll post about it. Many thanks to all that helped! Knowing the contacts are clean on that relay makes me feel a lot better. They were pitted and they all had some level of arc burn on them. But when I look at the panel and see three green lights that are not flickering or moving around, I know it's operating like it used to back when Dad bought it nearly new all those years ago. 


24 volt Chassis Batteries
Rick A

I'm wondering if somebody can explain to me why my 2005 Monaco Diplomat has 2 x 24 volt chassis batteries?

I have 2 batteries connected in parallel. The alternator is 12 volt I believe.

This seams odd to me.


Odd Inverter Issue..
StephenW

Congrats on your success!  Thanks for all the valuable information you have posted.It's nice to see a plan come together!


Show me you have good friends
StephenW

Looks like some very good friends, the kind you want to keep around!

Cheers!


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