Jump to content

Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
 Share

Recommended Posts

Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/532-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

German Air Cond
hitechpete
Sani-con 600S
throgmartin
Entry door
dleeadkins
Exhaust Overheating Code (1966)
Ivylog
Entry door
dl_racing427
Air Conditioner /thermostat
wayne.cerven@gmail.com
House battery??
Ivylog
Air Conditioner /thermostat
wayne.cerven@gmail.com
Entry door
Ivylog
Any inverter recommendations?
wamcneil
Air Conditioner /thermostat
vito.a
Searching new tires Cincinnati OH
birdshill123
House batterys
RS lakeshore
Air Conditioner /thermostat
wayne.cerven@gmail.com
Slide out topper material
eddie4ne
House batterys
Tom Wallis
Sani-con 600S
Brett63
Do you raise your tag axle?
Ivylog
House batterys
Nevada Rob
Searching new tires Cincinnati OH
JohnnyDiesel
Do you raise your tag axle?
Frank McElroy
Do you raise your tag axle?
Nevada Rob
Do you raise your tag axle?
Ivylog
Do you raise your tag axle?
Johnny Mo
Entry door
Cubflyer
Do you raise your tag axle?
96 EVO
Do you raise your tag axle?
Nevada Rob
Gauges not working
diys1
Do you raise your tag axle?
Ivan K
Do you raise your tag axle?
KevinH
Exhaust Overheating Code (1966)
Gospel
Overhead Exhaust Fan Main Cabin
ncsteve
Sani-con 600S
Tom Cherry
Full Throttle Generator
willbo777
Do you raise your tag axle?
willbo777
Sani-con 600S
Brett63
LP Indicator Light
tmw188
LP Indicator Light
Dr4Film
Fluorescent ballast
Wrayj1
Sani-con 600S
Tom Cherry
LP Indicator Light
tmw188

New Posts

German Air Cond
hitechpete

Truma is a big in Europe, selling heating and now cooling products to caravan and motorhome manufacturers in Europe.


Sani-con 600S
throgmartin

Brett:

We were a Sani Con dealer up till 2 months ago so did a lot of installations. I always ran 10 gauge wire back to the battery bay and included a 30 amp re-settable fuse. 

I do want to say we dropped the sani con line not because of quality issues but Thetfords new pricing structure which wiped out half our margins. The sani con turbo systems are the best on the market for macerators. When they went to the new pricing program I felt it wasn't worth our time to deal with them any more. At one time we moved more sani con systems then any other dealer in the country.


Entry door
dleeadkins
22 hours ago, hilrunr said:

This is an excellent depiction of what is necessary to make the adjustment. I have been having the same problem. Your detailed drawing mitigates my concern about tackling this job myself. Is this drawing from the user manual? If not, what other resource do you have for information? 

I have a 2007 HR Ambassador that needs added freon for the dash AC. Having watched some instructional you tubes (on a Winnebego RV) I assume the high and low pressure lines are mounted to the firewall. When I drop the front panel I see lots of stuff attached and a myriad of covered wires dissappearing into the firewall. I am unable to find a depiction of the firewall naming the various componenets attached to it. Any suggestions?

The drawing is from the attachment that was included with my original post.

7 hours ago, Cubflyer said:

Reading this thread about the door latch inspired me to open my door up this morning (we are in a campground 1200 miles from home, with limited tools.... )

My wife has not been able to open the door as it takes a special 'TUG' and only releases at the very end of outside handle travel.

Less than an hour later, I have a door that she can open easily, releasing the latches at about 1/2 travel of the outside handle.

I adjusted it at three places, the "turnbarrel" (which does not turn one way to shorten and the other to lengthen, but must take one end lose to add or subtract a turn)

The other two adjustments were at the upper and lower latches, just turning the nuts there to take out slack.

Another problem I have been having is that when I try to level my coach if I 'twist' it level with the rear jacks the door "jams" and I get "trapped" in the coach, the inside handle, pulls but the door will not push open.  Somewhere I read that the latch "studs" are supposed to move (up and down)... my upper one moves but the lower one was rock solid.... I got it freed up and now I need to test and see if the door opens now when I "twist" the chassis.   I believe they were designed to move slightly (about 3/16" total travel) to keep them from binding up on the latches with chassis flex.  I'll update when I have tried it.

Ken

You are correct about the “turnbuckle”. I figured that out too. I started to include that piece of information but didn’t want to over complicate things.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Small HWH hydraulic bedroom slide won't slide out
Ivylog

It’s likely in the ceiling of the compartment in front of the slide.


Exhaust Overheating Code (1966)
Ivylog
19 hours ago, Gospel said:

I did down shift, Only did this when going thru hi passes 9-12k high. The engine water never got hot. The code on the computer was 1966 which relates to the exhaust system regeneration. Their are three sensor but my understanding is that they will not shut the coach down. 

I was afraid you had a 07 engine with regeneration. Found the following that says code 1966 will shut the engine down. Looks like it was in regen and the extra heat of climbing over temped the exhaust sensor shutting down the engine. Usually you have to keep the rpms up for the regen to work. First time I’ve heard of to much heat not being good. Sounds like a one time event where the sun and the moon aligned.

https://www.blog-teknisi.com/2018/10/spn-3241-fmi-0-fault-code-1966.html?m=1

76E62EA0-AAF1-4F1B-BB64-31A349FA01EF.png


Entry door
dl_racing427
7 hours ago, Cubflyer said:

Reading this thread about the door latch inspired me to open my door up this morning (we are in a campground 1200 miles from home, with limited tools.... )

My wife has not been able to open the door as it takes a special 'TUG' and only releases at the very end of outside handle travel.

Less than an hour later, I have a door that she can open easily, releasing the latches at about 1/2 travel of the outside handle.

I adjusted it at three places, the "turnbarrel" (which does not turn one way to shorten and the other to lengthen, but must take one end lose to add or subtract a turn)

The other two adjustments were at the upper and lower latches, just turning the nuts there to take out slack.

Another problem I have been having is that when I try to level my coach if I 'twist' it level with the rear jacks the door "jams" and I get "trapped" in the coach, the inside handle, pulls but the door will not push open.  Somewhere I read that the latch "studs" are supposed to move (up and down)... my upper one moves but the lower one was rock solid.... I got it freed up and now I need to test and see if the door opens now when I "twist" the chassis.   I believe they were designed to move slightly (about 3/16" total travel) to keep them from binding up on the latches with chassis flex.  I'll update when I have tried it.

Ken

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You should never "twist" your chassis with the jacks or air leveling.  This can break your windshield and/or do other damage.

ALWAYS be sure the front is raised high enough on the jack, and the airbags deflated, before attempting side-to-side leveling with the rear jacks.


Air Conditioner /thermostat
wayne.cerven@gmail.com

Morning 

Thanks Vito

Just spoke to the gentleman that repairs them, he told me to try the on/off switch usually come loose and the back to make sure everything is secure,going to send him both switches over the winter to rebuild.  Air conditioner's still work great so won't spend the big dollars until one of the main ones goes done.

Thanks for the great info/ connection

Wayne 

1999 Signature Caesar 


House battery??
Ivylog

I lowered the battery track in my 04 Dynasty so I could add a second rack doubling my AGN AHs that lasted 10 years. To begin with (4 years) I only had the sorry 2012 before adding additional charging. More AH isn’t going to hurt anything other than taking longer to recharge.


Air Conditioner /thermostat
wayne.cerven@gmail.com
10 hours ago, vito.a said:

No it's not that easy.  The A/C control board (up inside the A/C on the roof) version much match the thermostat version.  

So if your roof A/C units are original they must be controlled by an original four button thermostat.  

Dometic used to make a conversion control board so you could install the 5 button thermostat and a new 5 button conversion control board into your older A/C.  I don't think they make it any longer.  

Dometic switched from the 4 button system to the 5 button Comfort Control (CC) system around 2002. 

It gets better!

A few years ago Dometic updated everything again.  The newest thermostat is a CCII (Comfort Control II) programmable thermostat and A/C system.  These are also not backwards compatible.  They do make a conversion control board to use a new A/C with a 5 button thermostat, but not a conversion for the 4 button.  

So, you have some choices.  You can have your old 4 button thermostat rebuilt.  Check eBay. 

REPAIR SERVICE for YOUR Duo Therm 4 Button Thermostat Dometic Part# 3106463007 | eBay

Dometic Duo-therm 4 Button Thermostat Replacment Buttons / Switches DIY Repair | eBay 

Or, you can buy a brand new A/C and a new CCII thermostat.  And, if you have two A/C's on one thermostat they must both be updated.  These new systems still use the same RJ11 telephone style control cable.  

Hope this helps!

 

I guess I could take the thermostat from the bedroom to the galley to test wether it is a thermostat issue, correct? 

Thanks

Wayne 

1999 Signature Caesar 


Entry door
Ivylog

It’s a rainy day in Georgia so I decided to work on my door’s top lock that fortunately is only steps away. It took two pulls of the handle to open…first pull unlocked the bottom and then the pressure that’s put on the top one let’s the second pull, releases it. Sooner or later it was going to give me problems.

 

Took about 20 minutes to remove all the screws to gain access to the top lock. Sure enough, the 7/16th adjustable nut was not contacting the arm… took 8 flats (1.5 turn) to tighten it up.

 

Decided to leave the bottom one alone as getting to it was going to take some more time plus now they both release at the same time. I did mark where I could cut a slot so I could access the nut in the future without removing any screws. From the center of notch for the lock I measured down 2” and 2 1/2” for a slit in the future so I can access just the adjusting nut. 45 minutes total time to finish this project.

6E5A72B1-0A78-4CB7-9B70-9C27F0CE813F.jpeg

C9BE85CF-AC3B-40F2-95A0-4EBDC7B96EC1.jpeg

FBCD1331-79FF-4991-8DDD-3F9880B37E0C.jpeg


Any inverter recommendations?
wamcneil
On 8/27/2021 at 10:58 PM, vito.a said:

No matter what you will need a new remote so you might as well switch to a new Magnum inverter charger.  

They have great tech support and repair centers all over the country.  If you have any electronics I would get the MS2012 pure sine wave version.  If not, then the ME2012 modified sine wave version will work fine.  It will also do a much better job of charging your battery bank. 

With some smart shopping you can find a new ME2012 for under $900.   One of the marine places had great prices on Magnum inverters.  You will have a choice of several remote versions.  I purchased a new remote on eBay very reasonable.  

Your existing RJ11 phone wire from the basement will work with the new remote but you will have to reverse the plug on one end.  It's pretty easy to cut off the old plug and crimp on a new one (make sure you mark the polarity first).  You'll just need the new plug and RJ11 crimping tool.  All your other wiring will work but you will need to make up a new ground cable from the Magnum to the frame rail in the basement.  

 

X2…

one more note: your original inverter was probably wired with 2 legs of AC power in and 2 legs of AC power out.
While you can reconfigure the AC power, if you want to keep the 2-in/2-out configuration, that will greatly limit your choice of inverters.

Magnum me and ms Inverters are very similar to the original xantrex and will go in pretty easily  

Cheers

Walter


Air Conditioner /thermostat
vito.a

Great idea but it will need to be programmed each time you move it.


Engine Bay Exhaust Blower Fan Switch??
Joe Lee

Hi All - I have an exhaust fan in the engine bay of my 1996 Crown Royale Signature. I replaced the fan but the wire going to the fan doesn’t seem to have power. Does anyone know if there is a power switch for this fan?  I expected the wire to be energized when I started the coach, but no luck yet. 
 

Any help or ideas are appreciated!

 

Joe


My Next New Motor Coach AFTER I Win the Lottery!
birdshill123

In the past steering rear axles have been problematic.  Bluebird tried it and owners ended up welding the pins and  disabling  the controls. Perhaps engineers have re engineered those systems.  Our Dynasy has a true tag lift and it has been flawless.


Searching new tires Cincinnati OH
birdshill123

Tires are in short supply do forget about deals.


House batterys
RS lakeshore

I appreciate all your help and looking further in my wiring diagram book that 4 batterys can be removed at a time. I will disconnect the power to all batterys first then remove negative cable an tape the end and also the positive cable an turn the power back on. I hope my thinking is right as electric is my weakest skill. Thanks again


Air Conditioner /thermostat
wayne.cerven@gmail.com

It is the on /off switching , moved it over slowly, it is a little loose and that's why it is on/off intermittently, so it is good to know some simple things to trouble shoot. Going to have it looked at and hopefully rebuilt by a local guy.

Thanks for the help

Wayne 

1999 Signature Caesar 


Slide out topper material
eddie4ne

Like you Dr. we had an issue with the thread degrading. I believe that our slide toppers were replaced sometime before we bought the coach in 2012. While coming east on 40 in TX we caught crosswinds that caught the awnings and caused billowing. After several attempts to secure them, we finally used bungees across the top and hooked on the other side- only 2 drivers sides. With that wind, it caused the seams holding the awning to the cap to pull out. At our next CG we took the long slide topper off and i sewed it right there. The canvas was still strong. We had sewn the bedroom slide at the start of the three month journey for the same reason. We had help with the first, our nephew is more mechanically inclined. But we were on our own with the front slide. Carrying my sewing machine is a priority! 


House batterys
Tom Wallis

You'll probably be fine. But there is no need to tape the end of the negative cable. However, you should definitely tape the end of the positive cable.


Sani-con 600S
Brett63

Currently I just wired the original plug from the coach harness to the sani-con switch and am using exisiting coach harness for power. Basically wired through the factory switch to the sani-con switch. I don't get under the coach if it is not on jack stands. I am too big, and there is no room if the bags dump for some reason. 


Do you raise your tag axle?
Ivylog

Raising the tag axle came up in a non-related thread so I thought I would start a new one.
I did raise when making several tight turns when I first had our 04 dynasty…15 years ago. About the same time I started seeing spread axle trailers were the axles are 8 feet apart, not 44”. Also our tires age out, not wear out, and I cannot tell any difference in the turning radius raising the tag axle, or not.

The drive axle on our 08 Navigator is at 23,000 pounds so raising the tag would overload it by almost 50%…not a good idea. Bottom line, I haven’t raised my tag axles in over a decade. Your mileage may vary.


House batterys
Nevada Rob

Richard you got this. I would recommend taking pictures of everything before you disconnect anything. Watch You Tube videos and see what other have done. It is not that complicated and you will have this done in no time. Post up a picture or two of your project. 


Engine Bay Exhaust Blower Fan Switch??
jacwjames

May be controlled by a thermo switch, when the engine bay gets hot it turns on.  You might try bringing it up to temperature.


Engine Bay Exhaust Blower Fan Switch??
Joe Lee

Great idea!  I will do as you recommend. Thanks!


Searching new tires Cincinnati OH
JohnnyDiesel

I just bought 8 Michelins using the FMCA program. I bought from Barnwell House of Tires in NY. Barnwell said that their inventory of tires is very low so there were few choices in the size I wanted. They said that they had 100 tires on order from Bridgestone for over 6 months and waiting. 


Do you raise your tag axle?
Frank McElroy

Whether a coach has the ability to actually lift the tag off the ground or to just release the pressure from the tag depends on the coach model and engine weight configuration.  The drive axle can carry a lot more weight and so can the tires if you a moving under 5 mph.  But there are limits.

On my 2008 dynasty with an ISL, the coach came from the factory with a tag air lift.  If drive axle ride height is adjusted properly, the tag will lift off the ground about 2" and yes, a see enough difference in turning radius to allow me to back into my drive with just one swing.

On many large Sigs with an ISX engine, that would be way too much weight for the drive axle.  So when you press the tag lift button, it just released air pressure from the tag axle because it doesn't have tag axle lift diaphragms.


Do you raise your tag axle?
Nevada Rob

I never raise mine. I don't see any wear marks on the tires or in the street and I make a sharp turn to back into our street. I mean steering wheel cranked all the way over. It is a nice option to have but I am with you in not overloading the drive axle. I am going to weight my coach tomorrow fully loaded with fuel, water, LPG, food and all gear in the bays. Along with our enclosed trailer loaded with the toys. At 72 ft. long I hope the scale weigh pads are spaced out right to get may axles.

How much weight is on your tag axle? 

 


Do you raise your tag axle?
Ivylog
7 minutes ago, Nevada Rob said:

How much weight is on your tag axle? 

10,500 on the tag and 14,400 on the steer…have gone to 315s on the front.


Do you raise your tag axle?
Johnny Mo

A few years ago when we got our Dynasty I had to take it to the DMV for a VIN certification. The entrance driveway had a tight turn, so I thought hey I should lift the tag... with the tight turn was followed by a steep incline, halfway through the incline I could feel the tow bar digging into the asphalt. When I got parked and checked out what was dragging and found there was no damage, except a gouge in the asphalt. I thought to myself what a dumb as#@! move. Since then I only lift the tag when backing into a tight space at a CG


Entry door
Cubflyer

Dave L,

Let me re-state my "twist" statement for you.......

While leveling my rig, I dump air, raise front (dual posts) with one control, followed by the rear jacks to level fore and aft, I then adjust either right or left rear jacks to level side to side following the manufactures procedure.

I believe this is putting a normal "twist" in my chassis, and my coach door would not open. 

Now that I have assured the latch posts are "moveable" (as designed) my door is functioning correctly. I can "flex" or "load" my chassis for normal leveling and my door no longer "jams"

A certain amount of flexibility of the chassis is normal and the door should not jam within certain limits, my door was jamming because the latch posts were not moving as designed, not because I was "twisting" my chassis excessively.

Others here may be experiencing the same problem with their door and understanding that the door latch posts NEED to have movement, and are DESIGNED to have movement, and if they do not have movement the door will "jam".  The windshield is also designed to "float" within it's framework, in that big rubber seal.  I believe if your chassis is flexing enough to break a windshield while leveling either the chassis has problems or your windshield is not mounted properly.

Ken


Do you raise your tag axle?
96 EVO

Mostly just raise the tag when making a sharp turn in reverse.

Usually reversing into a back-in site.


Do you raise your tag axle?
Nevada Rob

Wow 10,500 on tag and 23,000 on the drive is right at legal limit for the combination of tandem axles. I am surprised it is that heavy. Are your front hubs/bearings oil bath or packed grease? Do you know what the MFG rating is for the front axle as well as the weight rating for the wheels? Did you buy new front wheels for the 315's? 


Gauges not working
diys1

Thank you all for all the help finding my dash gauges problem. I had narrowed it down to a fuse so I checked all the fuses and the last one that was hidden under components was the blowed one (easy one to overlook).

So now I have all gauges working except the oil gauge and I think that is the sending unit.

Thanks again

JimJ


Do you raise your tag axle?
Ivan K

I know that lifting the tag gives me at least 2 feet of tighter turning radius in 180 degree turn. Saved me from running into deep sand coming out of a tight dump station circle the second time. First time, without lifting it, it got a bit sketchy. I don't lift it in gravel, it just makes a deep groove as the wheels stop turning. I can definitely see the thread edges rounding on the tag tires. Not that it is a problem. My tag lifts off the ground on pavement. In gravel the drives just sink deeper.


Engine Bay Exhaust Blower Fan Switch??
Marty K

As mentioned it is controlled by a temperature control, it looks like a high limit switch used in furnaces. The temp setting can be changed by rotating the setting.

Its under your bed. 

Marty


Engine Bay Exhaust Blower Fan Switch??
Joe Lee

Great!  Thanks. I will go look for it. 


Do you raise your tag axle?
KevinH

I only raise my tag when I’m on concrete. If I don’t I definitely see a lot of rubber.


09 Monaco Dynasty ISM 500 will not start
vito.a

Fred, we need more info to help?

Does it crank over and not run, or does it not even crank over?

When did it last run?

How much fuel?

What is the voltage checked at the chassis battery? How old are the chassis batteries?

Have you used the "Boost" switch? (This is the rocker switch on the drivers left console that connects the chassis/engine start battery and the house batteries). 

Have you double checked the rear start switch?  This is back next to the engine and must be placed in Front for the key switch to work.  You can experiment and place the key ON, then the rear run switch to rear and crank it from the rear.  

Rev group has almost disowned the legacy Monaco owners.  

Hope you get it!


How to remove tag axel center hub cap
96 EVO
On 6/20/2021 at 6:07 PM, Vettman66 said:

Putting it back on is more of a challenge 

Only challenging to get it back on without little dents all around the perimeter 😉!


Exhaust Overheating Code (1966)
Gospel
6 hours ago, Ivylog said:

I was afraid you had a 07 engine with regeneration. Found the following that says code 1966 will shut the engine down. Looks like it was in regen and the extra heat of climbing over temped the exhaust sensor shutting down the engine. Usually you have to keep the rpms up for the regen to work. First time I’ve heard of to much heat not being good. Sounds like a one time event where the sun and the moon aligned.

https://www.blog-teknisi.com/2018/10/spn-3241-fmi-0-fault-code-1966.html?m=1

76E62EA0-AAF1-4F1B-BB64-31A349FA01EF.png

It's happened 4 time, each time climbing a pass, with no dinghy. 

 


Overhead Exhaust Fan Main Cabin
ncsteve

Our fan has its own t stat so you can set the temp you want it to come on at. Also on mine, I had to adjust the plunger on top that shuts it off when the lid closes as sometimes it would not come on and other times the lid would close and it would still run.


Sani-con 600S
Tom Cherry
On 8/30/2021 at 9:14 PM, Brett63 said:

How many have replaced the factory Sani-con 400s macerator with the new 600S macerator and did you use existing switch and coach wireing or did you run new heavier wire straight from the batts to the Sani-con supplied toggle switch?

You will have to check what is currently in your system. Monaco did NOT always follow the manufacturers wiring schematic or fuse recommendations. I upgraded my "plain" Sanicon on my Camelot to the higher performance pump. That required the addition of a Bosch 87 Relay as the Monaco switch was only rated for maybe 15 amps and the newer motor called for 20.  Even Sanicon did not pick up in their instructions when I called that the common switches were inadequate.

If you visit the Thetford/Sanicon site and compare the 400S to the 600S, they have the SAME OEM switch and wiring configurations. BOTH are 35 Amps.

https://www.thetford.com//wp-content/uploads/2017/08/97573E-OI-SaniCon600.pdf    Scroll down to Page 4.... That shows the "CB" and the Relay and the switch and such...  It also has the wiring requirements....and the 400 and 600 are identical...

NOW....what did Monaco use....I haven't a clue. HOWEVER, Sanicon included in the OEM package a #10 Wiring setup or Hookup pigtail and a 35 Amp Bosch Relay....as well as a 35 Amp circuit breaker (not a fuse).  You can look on either one and the electrics are the same. IF you go beyond 18 Ft on the primary battery (or connection point) to the relay, then you will need to upgrade the wire to #8 as the voltage drop will be too high.

There is a WHITE PAPER (from the venacular of the old site) or File here that has my writeup on the upgrade. The SAME circuit is used by Sanicon, so if you want a detailed description of how to do the wiring....that is there....you only have to update the wiring.  NOW....PROBLEM...you will have to find a Terminal Strip mount for the relay as most of the 5 pin sockets you find are #12...  That is why the OEM package has the correct wiring.  The switch box (with relay) is a replacement part, so you could purchase the entire kit from Sanicon and just use your existing Monaco supplied "on/off" kit.

Not to dispute Chris' dealer experience, I believe that the 35 Amp resettable CB is a better choice (rather than the 30 amp) as that is what Sanicon used in their OEM kits. However, Sanicon used a "auto reset", I believe, CB. I like the Lever Action resettable CB better. Monaco used the T-Tocas style resettable CB...

I also looked at some of the more common "Battery Cable" charts...and the #10 that Sanicon includes is probably marginal....the #8 is good to 40 amps......so the longer the run, the more you need the #8. It is a little meaner to work with. If you are doing the work yourself, then I could purchase a hydraulic crimper...  and you WILL need a terminal strip style base for the relay...that might be challenging....


Full Throttle Generator
willbo777

So the latest, we replaced the fuel line, actually a fairly easy job as there was a large enough hole in the firewall to allow the new line to go through.  I am very thankful for having a very mechanically inclined and talented small wife who loves to do and help with these projects, so it was she who crawled under and around and ran the new line.  We got optimistic after the gen ran for 1 1/2 hours loaded and unloaded, our fingers were crossed, but it started surging badly after all that time.  Good news is the new board from Flight Systems just arrived and after some time to cool things off we'll stick it in and see what happens.


Do you raise your tag axle?
willbo777

I almost never raise my tag.  My drive is very close to the 23,000# as it is, loading it up with the extra tag weight makes me a bit uncomfortable.  Actually can't even think of the last time I raised it.


Sani-con 600S
Brett63

Sani-con included an inline 35a fuse. No CB, no relay. An inline fuse and the switch kit with installed high temp disconnect. I have no idea what Monaco ran in 09 or how they ran it. For the couple times I will use it between now and FL when I can block the coach on stands it will be fine. I will then run a dedicated power line from the batts. Not sure that I need a relay or why really, and I may swap the inline 35a fuse for a resettable breaker.


LP Indicator Light
tmw188

Ok this is the last indicator light that didn’t work. But I have to ask about it’s function. Is this suppose to illuminate when the switch is turned on or when the burner for the water htr fires up. I found it not wired to the switch and moved it so it would come on when the switch was on. I got to thinking a few days later maybe it’s not for the switch actually but maybe for when the burner comes on, or the gas valve opens? 
02 Windsor 

82E837A2-F4AF-426C-860B-3FC7BD432CD5.jpeg


LP Indicator Light
Dr4Film

The indicator light is to notify you when the burner lights up then it is supposed to go off unless the burner defaults and does not light up after three attempts.

That information should be in the operators manual.

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

1. STOP! Read the safety information provided.
2. Turn off all electric power to the appliance.
3. Turn “OFF” gas supply.
4. Wait five minutes for gas to clear the area. If you smell gas then STOP! Follow
instructions in item B of the SAFETY INFORMATION. If you don’t smell gas, go
to next step.
5. Turn “ON” gas supply.
6. Turn on electrical power to the appliance.
7. Locate the switch plate that operates the water heater which is somewhere inside
the RV and may be similar to the ones shown in Figure 11A and 11B. Your
switch may have a different appearance.
8. Once the switch is located and depending on which switch plate; Press the rocker
switch marked “GAS”, or the plain rocker switch, or your switch so that it is in the
“ON” position. If the burner does not light, the system will automatically attempt
ignition two more times before going into lock-out.
NOTE: Each ignition cycle will have a 15 second purge before spark cycle, the red
“RESET” light on the switch plate will be illuminated during the 15 second purge and
turn off during the spark cycle. If the red “RESET” light remains illuminated after the
15 second purge AND the system has attempted ignition three times, the system is
in lockout.
9. If lockout occurs before main burner lights, the red “RESET” light on the switch
plate remains illuminated to indicate ignition did not occur. To reset the system
and attempt ignition again, press the rocker switch marked “GAS”, or the plain
rocker switch, or your switch so that it is in the “OFF” position and wait five
seconds before returning the switch to the “ON” position. The first start-up of the
water heater may require several ignition cycles before all the air is purged from
the gas lines.
10. If the burner will not ignite and remain on, the following items should be checked
before calling a service person: A. Confirm if the switch marked “GAS”, or the plain rocker switch, or your
switch is in the “OFF” position. B. Confirm if the Gas supply to the water heater is turned off or empty. C. Confirm if the Reset button on ECO is tripped. (see Figure 12)
The reset button(s) are not visible as they are behind the cover that indicates “PUSH
TO RESET”. The 12V DC ECO Switch & T-Stat is under the rubber grommet identified
as “A” in the figure and the 120V electric element ECO Switch & T-Stat is under the
rubber grommet identified as “B". These are the reset button(s) that would be visible
if the cover from Figure 12 were removed.
11. If burner fails to light, call a Suburban Service Center or a local RV service agency


Fluorescent ballast
Wrayj1

Are the fluorescent ballasts in a 2007 Holiday Rambler electronic or magnetic?


Sani-con 600S
Tom Cherry
28 minutes ago, Brett63 said:

Sani-con included an inline 35a fuse. No CB, no relay. An inline fuse and the switch kit with installed high temp disconnect. I have no idea what Monaco ran in 09 or how they ran it. For the couple times I will use it between now and FL when I can block the coach on stands it will be fine. I will then run a dedicated power line from the batts. Not sure that I need a relay or why really, and I may swap the inline 35a fuse for a resettable breaker.

You will need a HIGH Amperage switch. Most of the switches that Monaco used were rated at 15 - 20 amps. That will burn up quickly. You need to check your prints to see if Monaco included a Bosch Relay. The Bosch 87A 5 pin relay is the main stay all over your coach. They come in two sizes.  (or maybe more). They are USUALLY 30 amps, but can be found for 40 amps. You need the 40 amp relay.

If you look at the schematic on the Sanicon site, it will show the relay coil hooked up to the Switch. You energize the relay and that will switch the high current load. In reality, if you know what your salesman's switch looks like, that is the same...

PERSONALLY....and this is MY OPINION, I would do the following...

Run the high current line....you decide....but if you will need a #10 for less than 15 feet of battery cable (to the relay) or #8 as another poster advised.

Purchase a "RATED" Solenoid or High Current Relay.  Amazon has this one...

https://www.amazon.com/Continuous-Solenoid-Relay-Nickel-Plating-Marine/dp/B072MZHK48/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=50+amp+12+volt+solenoid+relay&qid=1630527555&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyUzQzV1I0UTZCMjZNJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTI4Nzc5WUI4UzBYMDdMR1RBJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxNjM4MzgxRllOVjlEN0NGSEVWJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

It is their Max 300A Continuous Duty Solenoid Relay Nickel-Plating For Golf Carts,Winch, Marine In Rush 12VDC

It is a SIMPLE relay....like the one that you use on a golf cart. It is rated at 300Amp...which is a FARCE. It will run 24X7 if you keep the current below 80 amps....so 35 is a piece of cake...  $19.00.  

Purchase a 40 Amp T-Tocas (sp) resettable circuit breaker for it to protect the line between the battery and the Solenoid.

Then steal the leads from the Sanicon Switch....connect them to the small terminals. You have a heavy duty switch controlled by the original Sanicon Switch....your are good to go and SAFE...and reliable.  You can get precut cables with terminals to fit on it......same as is used on a winch on a vehicle. This is the easiest way to install.....ASSUMING THAT MONACO DID NOT INCLUDE A RELAY.

Good Luck...


LP Indicator Light
tmw188

Yeah thanks Richard! I thought that might of been the case. I’ll have to check it again for the correct operation. 


Full Throttle Generator
Nevada Rob

With out any signs of leakage, a fuel line would be low on my list of things to look at.


Full Throttle Generator
willbo777

I agree, but it was easy and it's now done.  After everything else that has been done, it seemed like a logical suggestion that it might be sucking air.  New controller in and testing now.


Inverter/Charger not inverting
diys1

I had the same inverter and the plug for the remote at the inverter (the phone plug on the front) kept failing. You could get a long phone wire and plug it in to the remote and the inverter to test if that wire is the problem. 

I replaced that inverter with a full sign wave Xantrex model and am happy with the results and so is my residential refrigerator. 

JimJ


Fluorescent ballast
Chargerman

Electronic


Do you raise your tag axle?
Ivylog
5 hours ago, Nevada Rob said:

Wow 10,500 on tag and 23,000 on the drive is right at legal limit for the combination of tandem axles.

Front axle rated 15,160 and rims rated 7600 or 15,200 for a pair. Not sure what the 34,000 tandem commercial truck limit has to do with our weights or even the 20,000 lb limit on a single axle??? In 2012 a Highway bill made 24,000 lbs on a single axle legal for MHs and buses. Several times I’ve had the “Truck must enter the weigh station” sign come on at the newer station that weigh you on the fly… I wave as I blow on by.

Ive been using 315s on 8.25” rims for 10+ years and close to 100K miles… no wear issues and I decrease the psi 12 lbs. Yes, fewer manufacturers are listing 315 on 8.25” rims today. The issue is not the width of the rim, it’s the 7600 lbs max rating of the 8.25” rims. If your axle weight was over 15,200 you would need to go to 9” rims for the higher weight rating. 315s on 8.25 used as duals , have always been approved since you are not going to even come close to exceeding the 2 rim’s 15,200 combined rating… 30,400 lbs on a single axle.


Fluorescent ballast
Wrayj1

Thanks!


Do you raise your tag axle?
Ivylog
6 hours ago, Nevada Rob said:

Are your front hubs/bearings oil bath or packed grease?

Grease but at 50K miles I took the caps off and drilled/tapped 1/4” pipe plugs in the ends. Put approx 1/2 cup of 90 gear oil in as I was leaving on a trip. The problem with grease is it hardens over time and the tapper bearings tend to push the grease out of the bearing. Softening the grease up with 90 weight let’s it flow some but not enough to get past the wheel seals. 
 

Haven’t repacked trailer bearings in 40 years as long as the bearings are tight. Put 90 weight in the cap and slap it back on. Your mileage may vary.

C6F97B9D-C0E9-4C15-A64D-1E4DD8B20ACA.jpeg


Exhaust Overheating Code (1966)
Ivylog

Might be worth replacing the inlet temp sensor referenced above.


Exhaust Overheating Code (1966)
Gospel

Am going to replace all sensors, there are 3, and find out how the regeneration system function and if it's still okay. Would like to see some service info on it. 


Small HWH hydraulic bedroom slide won't slide out
bmulvenna@hotmail.com

Found it on the center of the coach underbelly hidden on the frame. Thanks for all the suggestions.


Small HWH hydraulic bedroom slide won't slide out
Darren A.

Glad you found it


Exhaust Overheating Code (1966)
Ivylog

I made sure the 08 Navigator I bought had a 06 engine… no regen.


09 Monaco Dynasty ISM 500 will not start
Ivylog

In the rear run box are the switches that let you start it from there. On that board are 2 fuses. One for the starter (if blown starter will not turn over) and the other for the fuel shut off ( if blown starter turns the engine over but will not start). I replaced both fuses with auto resetting ones. If the plug on that board is not firmly attached, you can have all of the above issues.


Exhaust Overheating Code (1966)
Gary M
40 minutes ago, Gospel said:

Am going to replace all sensors, there are 3, and find out how the regeneration system function and if it's still okay. Would like to see some service info on it. 

I assume your motor is the same as mine.

07 EPA ISC 360

so following as I’ve had two issues with my regen in the past. First was DEF plugged up.

Second was having a stationary regen being preformed without fans to help cool exhaust and engine shut down. Placed fans and all ok on finish regen.


2005 Signature passenger front HWH X-Slide chain replacement
pwhittle

I have talked to multiple people for advice, so now I have multiple options on how to proceed. 😀

Here are some pictures of where I am at the moment. Next steps are to remove more stuff.

Thanks to all.

31EA53C6-1273-434A-9A66-8DA052579EA4.jpeg

C93B631C-03A1-414A-930E-B62888C3B703.jpeg

BCFBE742-B34B-4D0A-B448-6FA1944701C1.jpeg

05999F20-2252-4F86-A91E-D36218A0878B.jpeg


Entry door
isptbart

Hi All! I experienced the same problem, same symptoms & difficult to open from the outside, I did all of the external & then internal adjustments. Finally found out about the brass bushing & mine was almost completely worn out. I turned another bushing to spec. & that solved all of my problems. Sure was happy to just have to replace a simple brass bushing!

Bart from VA

07 HR 42PDQ w/ GMC 2500 HD in tow


odometer difficult to read
Jim McGarvie

This has been an issue since we brought the coach home from the factory 20 years ago. It probably hasn't gotten worse, but my eyesight has. Has anyone experienced this problem and found a solution? Can't make it any larger, but a stronger backlight might help.

Thanks.

Jim


Slide out topper material
isptbart
On 8/31/2021 at 12:03 PM, Dr4Film said:

I had Shade Pro replace all of my awning material on the entire coach back in 2009 while staying in California. Well they only lasted a few years before the thread and stitching started to come apart. The large slide-topper awning got so bad that they had to resew it in 2014 but it was a total waste of money and time.

I then found Stone Vos Inc. in Florida and ordered all new material in 2015 and had Elkart RV install the material on my way back from Alaska. Stone Vos is the ONLY shop I would trust as they have the very BEST material, they use LIFETIME thread and also do double stitching plus they have the BEST warranty in the business..

If you go any place other than Stone Vos you are simply throwing your money into the wind.

I totally agree with this post! Chris & his company are in my opinion the best for my RV! Top quality materials, knowledge & service. I have done it myself & I could save money but I would rather drive from Virginia & have Chris do it rather than to do it again myself - regardless of the money saved.

Bart from VA

 


odometer difficult to read
monacowner

Hi Jim! I have the same problem. I just take a picture of it with my phone and then stretch it out to make it bigger / more clear.


odometer difficult to read
Jim McGarvie
Just now, monacowner said:

Hi Jim! I have the same problem. I just take a picture of it with my phone and then stretch it out to make it bigger / more clear.

Ha! I do that too! But not while I'm driving. I often check the trip meter, which I reset when I fill the tank, to get a feel for how much further we can go before refueling.


odometer difficult to read
DavidL

You might get a scan tool and view odometer via your phone / tablet.


Inverter/Charger not inverting
Chuck Hefti

Thanks Jim for the reply. I just recently tried a new remote and cable to no avail. It would seem that it is an eternal issue and given its age it's probably not worth fixing. I have also been contemplating replacing it. Did you have to change anything such as cables, remote, wiring, different size fuse from battery to Inverter( just installed a new 200 amp fuse) or anything else I should be aware of?   Chuck H


Deadbolt to E-Deadbolt on entry door
Cubflyer

While I had my door apart for adjustments, and liking the convenience of the electronic door locks.

Today I removed the original keyed deadbolt and installed an Electronic Keypad Deadbolt (Defiant from Home Depot about $60.00)

It was no easy, bolt in task.  Had to open up the steel frame hole to a more round shape, had to disassemble the new 'bolt' part to attach the extension.  Had to modify it to make the connection with the extension.  Then, to get the inside 'box' to fit the area available, I had to mount the whole thing upside down.  

Works great,, no more keys, lights up to see the keypad in the dark, one button locking.  Worth the effort (to me at least)

EdeadBoltoutside.jpg

EdeadBoltinside.jpg


Entry door pad
Duanebalogh

We have a 2006 monaco signature motorhome and our entry key pad number 9 doesn't work and we need it to change the code. Where could I get a new entry key pad.


To unsubscribe *|member_name|* click here:https://www.monacoers.org/settings/?area=newsletters

We welcome your comments and suggestions for our newsletter.  Please send comments to newsletter@monacoers.org 

Copyright © 2020 Monacoers, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...