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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/535-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Exhaust Overheating Code (1966)
96 EVO
National Forrest Closures in California
blahargoue
Small HWH hydraulic bedroom slide won't slide out
bmulvenna@hotmail.com
Odd Vorad question
Brett63
Low Water Buzzer
JSSangalli
Do you raise your tag axle?
dl_racing427
Odd Vorad question
Frank McElroy
Do you raise your tag axle?
Ivylog
Odd Vorad question
Ivylog
Do you raise your tag axle?
moxy1962
Generator won’t shut down
dl_racing427
odometer difficult to read
Jim McGarvie
Do you raise your tag axle?
moxy1962
odometer difficult to read
DavidL
Exhaust Overheating Code (1966)
jacwjames
odometer difficult to read
Jim McGarvie
Transfer switch
Steven
Transfer switch
Jim Bob
Transfer switch
Dr4Film
Transfer switch
Dwight Lindsey
Transfer switch
Chuck B
Low Water Buzzer
Ivan K
Transfer switch
waterskier_1
Transfer switch
Steven
Low Water Buzzer
JSSangalli
Transfer switch
vito.a
Odd Vorad question
Yoaks5
Transfer switch
Scotty Hutto
Transfer switch
jacwjames
Transfer switch
waterskier_1
Exhaust Overheating Code (1966)
Gary Cole
Transfer switch
Dr4Film
Exhaust Overheating Code (1966)
jacwjames
Slide motor disengagement
Gary 05 AMB DST
Slide motor disengagement
jacwjames
Odd Vorad question
Brett63
Odd Vorad question
Ivylog
Odd Vorad question
Frank McElroy
Entry Door Grab Bar
tmw188
drip rail
pulsarjab
Entry Door Grab Bar
JDCrow
drip rail
JDCrow
drip rail
gdroberson
Entry Door Grab Bar
Cubflyer
8.3 ISC water pump failure
Cubflyer
8.3 ISC water pump failure
rvtips

New Posts

Exhaust Overheating Code (1966)
96 EVO

Yeah, they told him his DPF was cracked.

Or maybe the mechanic was on crack...... can't recall 🤔!


My Next New Motor Coach AFTER I Win the Lottery!
tomevansfl
8 hours ago, David Pratt said:

All are Active Tag Steering or Passive.

As I’m not as knowledgeable about the Foretravel, King Air, Essex and Cornerstone I had to looked them up.

Each is built on a Spartan K3 or K4 chassis and all have passive steering tag axles. This means that the wheels on the tag follows the path of the drive axle and the driver doesn’t direct them with the steering wheel. Passive steering is just that, passive. They “float” left or right as they follow along behind the drive axle.

With active steering the direction of the tag wheels is controlled by steering the front wheels. In other words you turn the front wheels with the steering wheel and the tag axle wheels turn at about 50% of the angle the front wheels turn. This eliminates tire scuffing while leaving the tag axle in full contact while carrying their normal load 100% of the time, including when the transmission is in reverse gear. Passive steering doesn’t do this.

While both prevent tag axle tire scuffing when traveling forward at low speeds, passive doesn’t function in reverse and does not eliminate tag axle tire scuffing. 

The thing that confounds me is that when you put the transmission in reverse, the passive tag is brought to straight and allows tire scuffing when backing into a campsite. So I’m confounded why Spartan mechanically forces the wheels straight when backing but doesn’t have an active forward steering. Newell’s tags  are active in both directions when going slow. It’s not needed at highway speeds.

Active air suspension means the ride height of the coach is adjusted multiple times per second to compensate for road irregularities and to keep the coach level. Not the same thing as active steering tag axle.


National Forrest Closures in California
blahargoue

Valid point.  Our Forrest have far more dense fuel sources than they did 100 years ago.

 

I have lost my home owners insurance 4 times in 6 years during to companies pulling out of the market.  I got lucky this year and found one company that decided to insure in our area.  They too stopped writing policies 2 weeks after I signed up.  So I am good for another year without having to use the expensive State Insurance program.  Next year?  Who knows?

 

Bruce LaHargoue


Small HWH hydraulic bedroom slide won't slide out
bmulvenna@hotmail.com

Further findings. 5/8 nut missing on ram. It was a spanner nut that has disappeared. Could not locate one so used a castle nut and will add  a jam nut. Picture attached.

20210903_124302.jpg


Odd Vorad question
Brett63

Here is a question.

When driving down the highway (Vorad is turned off) I start the generator the Vorad turns back on and in so doing locks out the cruise control.

If I pull over and stop and turn the engine off (generator still running) and start it back up, turn the Voard off and take off the cruise will work again.

If after starting the gen and the vorad comes back on, I then turn the Vorad off and secure the gen the cruise still will not work.

This just started this a couple weeks ago.

As long as I 1. either start the gen before starting the engine the cruise will work 2. don't start the gen at all the cruise will work

 

What would cause the Vorad to come on and turn the cruise off if I start the gen while driving down the road?

09 Signature


Low Water Buzzer
JSSangalli

I had that problem on an M11 engine. It used about a gallon and a half every time I used it. Changed the overflow reservoir cap,  reservoir and everything several different service centers could imagine. Cummins in Tampa put it on the Dyno. There was a leak in the head gasket that would push the coolant out the cap. They changed the head gasket, no more problem.


Do you raise your tag axle?
dl_racing427

You also need to consider the additional side loading caused by dragging the tag and drive tires around sharp turns.

I was on a job earlier this year, where the site had hired two large tour buses to shuttle employees to/from the parking lots.
One driver told me they corded a set of tag tires in just a few days, and a few hundred miles.  These buses didn't have the ability to raise the tag.
After going through several sets of tires, he actually chained the tag up to force the drives to carry the whole weight. LOL


Odd Vorad question
Frank McElroy

I don't have a direct answer but I do have a hunch.

You have a chassis multiplex coach and because of high parasitic current draw, Monaco configured the engine to start from the chassis batteries but the front dash control switches to work off the house batteries.  I also think that the generator starts from the house batteries.  A weak big boy could allow a low house battery voltage while starting the generator and this in effect could glitch either the CCM chassis multiplex control module or the vorad module. 

Make a battery cable to directly connect the house and chassis battery positive terminals to in effect bypass big boy and if this fixes your problem, clean the big boy relay.

 


Do you raise your tag axle?
Ivylog

And we worry about raising the tag because of excessive tire wear???

AB1BC043-4E92-4685-A03F-EDC78CE5C692.png


Odd Vorad question
Ivylog

I’d try holding the boost down before starting the generator…agree your need to check the voltage on either side of it when engaged. The cruise will not work if the Vorad is not working.


Do you raise your tag axle?
moxy1962
17 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

And we worry about raising the tag because of excessive tire wear??

Those large axle spread tires skid significantly more that tag axles 


Generator won’t shut down
dl_racing427

Did the original solenoid have a spring return built in?

If the replacement does not, it should be fairly simple to rig a return spring on the arm.
Just choose a spring that is strong enough to pull the stop arm to the closed position, but not so strong that the solenoid cannot pull fully in when the unit is running.


odometer difficult to read
Jim McGarvie
On 9/2/2021 at 8:58 AM, DavidL said:

a 9 Pin Deutsch connector IS OBD.  It is NOT OBDII.

9 Pin is typically J1939 protocol (it may also have J1708).

OBD is On Board Diagnostics.  Many different generations / types.

OBDII is one particular flavor (US Gas vehicles)

On Most J1939 vehicles, the round connector is also at the base of the steering column.  but look around within a foot of the column.

You may be able to use the one at the back, but bluetooth does not have very long range so it is unlikely it will reach up front.  Not aware of a bluetooth "repeater" either.

When I get around to it, I will have a solution for the issue, but it will be much more comprehensive than what you are asking for.

Thanks for the clarification, David. I should have realized the Deutsch connector at the rear of the coach was a type of OBD. How does one go about determining whether a port is J1939 or J1708?


Do you raise your tag axle?
moxy1962
1 hour ago, dl_racing427 said:

You also need to consider the additional side loading caused by dragging the tag and drive tires around sharp turns.

I was on a job earlier this year, where the site had hired two large tour buses to shuttle employees to/from the parking lots.
One driver told me they corded a set of tag tires in just a few days, and a few hundred miles.  These buses didn't have the ability to raise the tag.
After going through several sets of tires, he actually chained the tag up to force the drives to carry the whole weight. LOL

When I'm slow speed maneuvering I throw the switch and take the weight off the tags 


odometer difficult to read
DavidL

You would contact Cummins company with your VIN  / engine serial number and ask them.  Yours (like mine) is too close to the transition from one to the other.

If 9 pin, likely J1939.  But mine is 9 pin and is J1708 (older protocol).

From Cummins:

"There was a gradual shift from J1708 to J1939 between 2004 and 2007. Any engines prior to 2004 are most likely to be exclusively J1708. Engines from 2004 – 2007 are likely to have both protocols available. After 2007 it’s most likely going to be J1939 (with the odd exception). The ISX has been around for some time, so check the engine manufacture date to get a better idea of the communication protocol, rather than the engine model."


Exhaust Overheating Code (1966)
jacwjames

Back in ~2006 I was involved in a restart of mines that had been shut down for ~4 years.   Eventually (somehow) I was promoted to Maintenance Manager.  The equipment that was still there and usable did not meet the new Mine Health and Safety Administration (MSHA) diesel particulate criteria.   We had to test and maintain records along with ventilation surveys etc.   Even most of the new equipment did not  meet the criteria.   We had to install DPF on pretty much all the equipment and purchase the equipment to be able to clean the DPF which was a high temperature oven and a vibrating table that would shake the soot out of the DPF while it was baking.  We monitored all the equipment with computer, would download the data at every service (essentially weekly), some of the newer equipment that came equipped with the DPF's did regenerate and we could actually see it on the printouts.  We had to keep detailed records of all of this  On the equipment, as the back pressure climbed on the exhaust system, we'e ultimately pull the DPF and put one of the spares.  Each engine by make, model, size had different DPF's.  We spent +$1M on all of this to bring the  mines in compliance.

What we learned over time is that the equipment that was run hard and hot would benefit from the DPF's and that they would have to pulled and cleaned a lot less frequently then some of the other equipment.  We also found that some equipment it would not work at all, we had to remove and operators would have to wear personal protective equipment (masks etc) to protect against the diesel particulate. 

So when all these types of systems were being developed the first generation of engines performed poorly.  This probably includes motorhomes that started to have this equipment installed.  I knew the Knoxville  Cummins Manager and would stop in and talk to him and he commented that the engine manufacturers were scrambling to develop engine to meet the EPA requirement (Tier engines) and it seemed that just when they got the bugs worked out of engines they would release a new Tier and they'd start all over again. 

So if you own a coach with this type of equipment I'd suggest you do your research and be proactive to maintain it. 

I guess I'll keep my 2002 with a ISC 8.3


odometer difficult to read
Jim McGarvie
8 minutes ago, DavidL said:

You would contact Cummins company with your VIN  / engine serial number and ask them.  Yours (like mine) is too close to the transition from one to the other.

If 9 pin, likely J1939.  But mine is 9 pin and is J1708 (older protocol).

From Cummins:

"There was a gradual shift from J1708 to J1939 between 2004 and 2007. Any engines prior to 2004 are most likely to be exclusively J1708. Engines from 2004 – 2007 are likely to have both protocols available. After 2007 it’s most likely going to be J1939 (with the odd exception). The ISX has been around for some time, so check the engine manufacture date to get a better idea of the communication protocol, rather than the engine model."

Thanks David.

 


Transfer switch
Steven

I woke up this morning to no power in motorhome. Have power at post. Checked breakers and all good. Smart EMS shows no incoming power. Any suggestions? Possibly transfer switch? Would like to check but do not know the location. Is there a reset on transfer switch?

Steve

2004 Windsor 40 DST.


Transfer switch
Jim Bob

much more info needed.  Do you have an 12v power?  Do you have power unplugged from post?  Do you have power with Genset on?


Transfer switch
Dr4Film

Are we talking 120 VAC power or 12 VDC Power?


Transfer switch
Dwight Lindsey

Steve:

The transfer switch will be near the place where the shore power cable enters the motorhome.  Probably in a rear compartment.  Someone with a 2004 Windsor could guide you more specifically.   There is not typically a reset switch on a transfer switch.  That said, I don't know which transfer switch you have. If you haven't yet, you should certainly check and re-set all of the breakers in your breaker box.

Unless you're VERY comfortable with electrical work, I suggest great caution about opening the transfer switch to check it.  All power sources must be off, battery disconnects disconnected and shore power disconnected.

Dwight


Transfer switch
Chuck B

Steve, Your transfer switch is located in the narrow bay foward from the bay where your dump valves are located.  Your PTS is a Esco brand switch.  Send me A PM to 

jbee99807@gmail.com and I will send you a picture.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Low Water Buzzer
Ivan K
2 hours ago, JSSangalli said:

I had that problem on an M11 engine. It used about a gallon and a half every time I used it. Changed the overflow reservoir cap,  reservoir and everything several different service centers could imagine. Cummins in Tampa put it on the Dyno. There was a leak in the head gasket that would push the coolant out the cap. They changed the head gasket, no more problem.

Yeah, hope this is not the case but that's why I mentioned bubbling in coolant. There are test kits to detect exhaust gas in coolant. Eventually the coolant can push into cylinders and down into oil if that happens.


Transfer switch
waterskier_1

Generally, the Smart EMS is installed between the power post and the transfer switch.  If it shows no power, then the transfer switch isn't likely the problem. You either are not getting power to the EMS, (power at the pedestal, connection on the cable, cable itself, etc.) or the EMS itself had shut shown the power.


Transfer switch
Steven

If the EMS has shut down the power, is there a way to restore or reset it?


Low Water Buzzer
JSSangalli

The chemical was how he confirmed his suspicions. Luckily no coolant got into into the crankcase. It had to be under load to create proper conditions therefore the Dyno. I left Hutchison, KA for Lake Placid, FL, stayed overnight in MS, added about 11/2 gal water next morning, stayed at Wildwood, FL, same amount, 70 miles to Lake Placid, same. I was concerned it would dilute the additive in the coolant and damage the liners, the mechanic wasn't.  I don't remember the low level alarm ever sounding at highway speed but slow down for any reason and it would drive me nuts. I suspect the few degrees of temperature drop or lack of turbulence allowed the water to settle below the sensor.


Transfer switch
vito.a

Steven, you probably should start your own thread.  

Monaco used Sanden A/C compressors on Cummins engines.  For what its worth ours is a Sanden U4756.  Also, check your coach model number as Monaco did not manufacture a 42' Windsor.  

If you have the Monaco recreational vehicle data card it will list you compressor model number.  


Odd Vorad question
Yoaks5

I have a simular issue on both the 04 and my current 06 navigator. If I turn the gen on with the motor running it will fault out my vorad cruise and it won't work until I shut the key off and back on. I talked to Rick Youngblood (one of the original engineers) and he said the vorad system is very suspect to voltage spikes and thought starting the gen was most likely causing one and that faults the vorad.

I just rebuilt my big boy so it'll be interesting to see if that fixed it. If I'm going to be using the gen I just start it first before the motor. We normally travel with it on so we can run the ac.


Transfer switch
Scotty Hutto

Steve,

Reach out to Chuck B (above). He’s the resident expert on Windsors!


Transfer switch
jacwjames

Is the "Smart" EMS you are talking about the load shedding system?

Do you have any type of surge protector. 

First thing I'd do is fire up the Generator, if you get power to the coach at least you know that side is working.

 


Transfer switch
waterskier_1
2 hours ago, Steven said:

If the EMS has shut down the power, is there a way to restore or reset it?

If you are talking the Smart EMS Surge Protector (like a Progressive EMS) that should be located near the transfer switch.  I don't think that Windsor's had a load shedding EMS which would shed loads on 30 Amp Service.  If the Smart EMS Surge Protector shut down it's because the incoming voltage is outside of parameters (too high, too low, bad neutral, etc.) and self-checks for the condition to come back into tolerance for a few minutes and then clears itself and passes the good power on to the transfer switch.  There is nothing you have to do to clear it, other than maybe call the park and tell them their power is out of tolerance.  It would be good to check that you have power into that EMS and then none out of the EMS, and check the voltages on both legs where it comes into the EMS.  If the voltages are good, possibly your EMS is bad.  But check to make sure the incoming power is good before you replace it.  Since all was good last night, it's most likely the Park has a problem, but you can check that at the pedestal.  


Exhaust Overheating Code (1966)
Gary Cole

Interesting information Jim. How were you measuring the back pressure in the exhaust system?


Transfer switch
Dr4Film

Rick,

Windsor's did come with the Intellitec EMS Load Shedding System, at least mine did.

However, people when posting need to identify what they are referring to. Whether they have some sort of EMS system (aka Progressive Industries or Southwire or Hughes Power Watchdog which are three suppliers that come to mind) that monitors the incoming power to their coach which is generally installed prior to the transfer switch OR are they posting in regards to the Intellitec EMS Load Shedding System.


Exhaust Overheating Code (1966)
jacwjames
4 minutes ago, Gary Cole said:

Interesting information Jim. How were you measuring the back pressure in the exhaust system?

This was part of the system we purchased along with the computers to read it with. 

Even though we dedicated people monitoring all these systems they were still difficult to keep operational.   We had 3 different mines with centralized warehousing where we stocked extra filters, refurbished would be sent out based on a requisition and old ones returned for cleaning and restock.  $$$$$$$$

The best equipment to run it on were the loaders & trucks, these were run hard ~7 hours a shift, 3 shifts a day, 365 days a year.  Worst equipment were service type vehicles (supply truck, pipe truck, Explosives trucks) the engines were never really stressed so they never got hot enough to burn off the DPM and the filters would plug really fast. 


Slide motor disengagement
Gary 05 AMB DST
18 hours ago, jacwjames said:

The electric motor has a magnetic brake on the end.  Normally there is a heavy rubber boot on the end of the motor with a lever sticking out.  The lever is what disengages the electric brake.  Just move the lever one way or the other.  You shouldd then be able to move the slide. 

I had to move mine a couple months ago when it wouldn't come in with the switch.  Flipped the lever and then used a large crescent wrench and cheater pipe to pull the slide in.  I'm pretty stout ant it was all I could do to pull it in. 

Thanks Jim, that was the one place I didn't uncover or feel. Was yours a flat floor slide?

Gary 05 AMB DST


Slide motor disengagement
jacwjames

No, not a flat floor side, not sure what might be used for a lock on that type of system, maybe the same type of lock. 


Odd Vorad question
Brett63

UPDATE:

Ok, apparantly I have two issues. 1. I guess the charger button got pushed turning the charger off and we didn't catch it OR it turned off on it's own somehow and 2. it appears maybe I am having Big Boy issues.

So here is what happened, as stated a few days ago I went to start the gen while driving and the Vorad turned on and I lost the cruise control. We only had a couple hour run so I didn't worry about it. We stopped for a week and plugged in and went about our business. Yesterday we left from that sopt and drove about 3 hours and I once again went to start the gen while driving, but it acted like it didn't want to start. Ffinally it did and the Vorad again turned on and again I lost my cruise control. So I pulled over, shut the coach down, started it back up and all good. We drove all day yesterday then with the Gen running. We pulled in last night, plugged the coach in and came inside. Today I think ok I will outsmart the system so I pulled the fuse fromt he Vorad knowing then that when i started the gen it would not effect the Vorad.....We got on the road and I went to set the cruise and nothing. That is when I learned that apparantly if you have no fuse in the Vorad system your cruise control will not work. So We stopped and I put the fuse back and and poof, cruise works. A couple hours later I go to start the gen and today it won't start, I try it a couple times and nothing. We can't hear it at all, so all  have is the flashing switch light to tell me if it is running. So I have my wife get up and look at the Magnum remote and we see the batts are at 10.3v and the fault light is on....Ok, so house batts completely dead. Chasis batts are ok. So it pretty much has to be the Big Boy.

As we keep driving I start losing all dash functions, then I get an ABS light and a message of lost comms, shortly there after I see I have no turn signals, no head lights, no smart wheel, no brake lights, no nothing just the engine running. We have 50 miles to go to get to the CG and it is daylight so we continue on. We get to the campground and learn something else, you can't get the door open as there is no 12v to tell the system to empty the doors air bladder.....I finally get it open so we can check in and I get to thinking hell we can't open the slides or anything.

We finally get in the site and I leave the engine running and go out and plug in and we begin to bulk charge, the dash comes back to life, the door air bladder deflates so we can open/close the door and the slides work.

Lesson, on a chasis multiplex Monaco when you lose your house batts, you lose EVERYTHING. You cannot start the gen either as it starts off the house batts. SO I have now made up a 2/0 cable that fits between the house and chassis batts as an interim so that everything will stay charged tomorrow (although I will probably just start the gen before the coach and let it run tomorrow) this will get us back to our home lot inf FL and allow me some time for figure it all out.

You guys with the non chasis multiplex coaches sure are lucky.....lol


Odd Vorad question
Ivylog
6 hours ago, Ivylog said:

The cruise will not work if the Vorad is not working.

Guess you learned this. The BIRD system tells the BigBoy when to engage…should be hot to the touch. While hooked to shore power I’d see if it’s hot-engaged. If it’s hot then the contacts need cleaning. If not hot then I’d start by checking the fuses on the BIRD board to the right of it. 


Odd Vorad question
Frank McElroy
1 hour ago, Brett63 said:

UPDATE:

Ok, apparantly I have two issues. 1. I guess the charger button got pushed turning the charger off and we didn't catch it OR it turned off on it's own somehow and 2. it appears maybe I am having Big Boy issues.

So here is what happened, as stated a few days ago I went to start the gen while driving and the Vorad turned on and I lost the cruise control. We only had a couple hour run so I didn't worry about it. We stopped for a week and plugged in and went about our business. Yesterday we left from that sopt and drove about 3 hours and I once again went to start the gen while driving, but it acted like it didn't want to start. Ffinally it did and the Vorad again turned on and again I lost my cruise control. So I pulled over, shut the coach down, started it back up and all good. We drove all day yesterday then with the Gen running. We pulled in last night, plugged the coach in and came inside. Today I think ok I will outsmart the system so I pulled the fuse fromt he Vorad knowing then that when i started the gen it would not effect the Vorad.....We got on the road and I went to set the cruise and nothing. That is when I learned that apparantly if you have no fuse in the Vorad system your cruise control will not work. So We stopped and I put the fuse back and and poof, cruise works. A couple hours later I go to start the gen and today it won't start, I try it a couple times and nothing. We can't hear it at all, so all  have is the flashing switch light to tell me if it is running. So I have my wife get up and look at the Magnum remote and we see the batts are at 10.3v and the fault light is on....Ok, so house batts completely dead. Chasis batts are ok. So it pretty much has to be the Big Boy.

As we keep driving I start losing all dash functions, then I get an ABS light and a message of lost comms, shortly there after I see I have no turn signals, no head lights, no smart wheel, no brake lights, no nothing just the engine running. We have 50 miles to go to get to the CG and it is daylight so we continue on. We get to the campground and learn something else, you can't get the door open as there is no 12v to tell the system to empty the doors air bladder.....I finally get it open so we can check in and I get to thinking hell we can't open the slides or anything.

We finally get in the site and I leave the engine running and go out and plug in and we begin to bulk charge, the dash comes back to life, the door air bladder deflates so we can open/close the door and the slides work.

Lesson, on a chasis multiplex Monaco when you lose your house batts, you lose EVERYTHING. You cannot start the gen either as it starts off the house batts. SO I have now made up a 2/0 cable that fits between the house and chassis batts as an interim so that everything will stay charged tomorrow (although I will probably just start the gen before the coach and let it run tomorrow) this will get us back to our home lot inf FL and allow me some time for figure it all out.

You guys with the non chasis multiplex coaches sure are lucky.....lol

Brett, since on your coach you don't have a house battery voltmeter on the dash to monitor the house battery voltage while driving, it would be good idea to add one.   If I'm not mistaken, the dash cigarette lighter is powered by the house batteries.  A voltmeter plugged into this outlet would allow you to monitor the house batteries while driving.  With house batteries powering dash controls, it is critical that chassis multiplex coaches like yours charge both the chassis and house batteries while driving.  Being able to monitor house and chassis battery voltages from the driver's seat is important to give you a heads up that you have a battery charging problem before systems start shutting down.


Entry Door Grab Bar
tmw188

The entry door acrylic grab bar appears to have what looks like fiber optic tubes running thru it. It looks as if it would light up but doubt that it is anything like that, and maybe more to do with the fabrication of the bar. The rear engine door handle is the same way. Did these have an option to be illuminated? 


drip rail
pulsarjab

Does anyone know where to purchase the drip rails that are on the side of the slide out? I have seen these on most of the Monaco line.

 

Greg

2000 Diplomat


Entry Door Grab Bar
JDCrow

What are you after? New bar? 


drip rail
JDCrow

Pics? 


drip rail
gdroberson

try All Rite rv products


Entry Door Grab Bar
Cubflyer

I can tell you that I put a short section of LED light strip (3 LEDs) in the bottom handle housing and wired it to the chassis batteries and it lights up the acrylic bar nicely, full time if the batteries are connected....

I used the bottom because of more space, but the top may be better to keep the strip of LEDs out of any moisture...

Ken


8.3 ISC water pump failure
Cubflyer

So I'm on the road from SLC to DEN, overnighted at Rawlings, WY ..... arrived there in a rain/hail storm, got on my site and hooked up... water everywhere...

This morning as we pulled out the "water low" light came on, I stopped at a local autoparts store on the way to the highway and when I came out with some antifreeze I found out why the light was on.... big puddle and active dripping.    Probably leaked all night....

No parts or repair shops in Rawlings so off to Laramie where there was supposed to be a pump.   Managed to keep adding water as we go and monitor temps, got to NAPA and they only had one of the two different pumps they showed in stock so I bought the one.  I have since looked closely at the new pump and compared it to the installed pump and no way it is the correct pump.   Managed to get these numbers off the pulley... 3286293   which crosses to the NAPA pump that was out of stock.   Called all the usual local autopart stores and none carry (keep in stock) the cross referenced pump.   Hoping I can try NAPA between Laramie and Denver tomorrow and get lucky with one on the shelf.

Meanwhile, keeping water in the system I'm going to try to head south tomorrow... anybody think that running mostly tap water for a few hundred more miles will hurt anything as long as I keep water in it??

Ken


2005 Signature passenger front HWH X-Slide chain replacement
pwhittle

All fixed. For me the secret was to take more stuff off which gave clearance to work and to exercise the X-Slider to bleed the system and synchronize the cylinders.

Thanks to all for information and pointers. They were all helpful.

Paul

 


8.3 ISC water pump failure
rvtips
1 hour ago, Cubflyer said:

So I'm on the road from SLC to DEN, overnighted at Rawlings, WY ..... arrived there in a rain/hail storm, got on my site and hooked up... water everywhere...

This morning as we pulled out the "water low" light came on, I stopped at a local autoparts store on the way to the highway and when I came out with some antifreeze I found out why the light was on.... big puddle and active dripping.    Probably leaked all night....

No parts or repair shops in Rawlings so off to Laramie where there was supposed to be a pump.   Managed to keep adding water as we go and monitor temps, got to NAPA and they only had one of the two different pumps they showed in stock so I bought the one.  I have since looked closely at the new pump and compared it to the installed pump and no way it is the correct pump.   Managed to get these numbers off the pulley... 3286293   which crosses to the NAPA pump that was out of stock.   Called all the usual local autopart stores and none carry (keep in stock) the cross referenced pump.   Hoping I can try NAPA between Laramie and Denver tomorrow and get lucky with one on the shelf.

Meanwhile, keeping water in the system I'm going to try to head south tomorrow... anybody think that running mostly tap water for a few hundred more miles will hurt anything as long as I keep water in it??

Ken

When mine went out,I could only find one at Cummings


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