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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/537-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Ignition solenoid testing
Jim Bob
Ignition solenoid testing
Jim Bob
8.3 ISC water pump failure
Gary 05 AMB DST
8.3 ISC water pump failure
frankogrly
8.3 ISC water pump failure
Gary 05 AMB DST
Ignition solenoid testing
Gary M
Ignition solenoid testing
Rikadoo
Ignition solenoid testing
StephenW
8.3 ISC water pump failure
Dr4Film
Ignition solenoid testing
Ivylog
8.3 ISC water pump failure
wayne.cerven@gmail.com
drip rail
Paul A.
Ignition solenoid testing
waterskier_1
Ignition solenoid testing
Jim Bob
Ignition solenoid testing
Ivylog
Ignition solenoid testing
Jim Bob
Ignition solenoid testing
Ivan K
drip rail
Jerry Olson
Ignition solenoid testing
Gary Cole
Ignition solenoid testing
Jim Bob
Ignition solenoid testing
Frank Bergamo
model question
Brett63
Air Conditioner /thermostat
wayne.cerven@gmail.com
Air Conditioner /thermostat
Ray Davis
model question
Ivan K
model question
vito.a
8.3 ISC water pump failure
Cubflyer

New Posts

Ignition solenoid testing
Jim Bob

so, I read a couple other threads that indicated an intermittent lack of dash fans, cruise control, dash lights, step retraction, etc. might be a bad ignition solenoid located in the FRB.  So, short of replacing it, is there a way to test the solenoid?  As in jumping from one side to another to see if the dash fans work? Also, all the 12v lights in the basement do not work.  I have no idea if these are related as I rarely used the lights and when one didn't work, I assumed it was a bulb that needed to be replaced.  When I finally got around to checking bulbs, I figured out that none of them worked, but no idea if the timing was the same as the lack of dash fans.  Again, the dash fans are not something I used very often.  I've checked the fuses and they are good.  To replace the solenoid, remove it and find a part number?  Is it likely a local auto parts store will have it? 

Thanks a bunch. 

Jim

95 Dynasty. 


Ignition solenoid testing
Jim Bob

Upon further review... It appears that the dash fans, compartment lights and step are all on this upper block with the large black wire coming in and looping down to the bottom.  This particular electrical block appears to be wired opposite of the other blocks in the FRB as all the others have a large red wire coming in.  So, it would appear to my limited electrical mind that the small wires are the positive side and the large black wire is the negative?  If so, where do the small wires get their power?  I would assume that all those circuits are not switched with the ignition and are powered somewhere else, so any suggestions where to look for that power source? 

close up.jpg

fuse layout.jpg

whole thing.jpg


8.3 ISC water pump failure
Gary 05 AMB DST

Rik, I give you so much credit to do that project. Does your 03 have the eight air bag suspension? I'm trying to determine when the Endeavors started with the 8 air bag because  my 05 Ambassador was the first year for the 8 air bag. Basically my Ambassador is a downgraded Endeavor with the same platform.

Gary 05 AMB DST


8.3 ISC water pump failure
frankogrly

Endeavor with 8 air bags started in 2001. That was the first year it was built on the Roadmaster chassis.

Frank O

01 Endeavor


8.3 ISC water pump failure
Gary 05 AMB DST

Thanks Frank. For some reason I thought it started in 04. That opens up new territory that I should be following advice for.

Gary 05 AMB DST


Ignition solenoid testing
Gary M

Well I’m about like you. DC throws me. Give me 480-600 AC. Anyway if that red wire( +) were to be removed, I wonder ir that is your power source and the black is the negative. Hopefully someone smarter than me will help.


Ignition solenoid testing
Rikadoo

Well if it was me, the 1st thing i would do is to remove the little wires that are coroded, reconnect them then retighten all the connections, as for the bigger lugs i would loosen then retorque them to 45 in lbs.

i would want to see how those big lugs are powered upstream, either by direct bsttery connection or power solinoids an clean an tighten those connections, ya gotta figure a rig with that many happy miles just may be needing some love. Then i would use my test light and test those circuits for correct integrity, positive is positive and ground is ground ( to do this i use a “smart” test light, has made my work sooooo much easier and timely) lastly i would be giving a big eye towards the ignition switch, the one that come to mind for me are the GM styles, i was having a problem with my DP starting, it would crank just fine, i would darn near run my batteries dead before it would start, i decided to replace the switch first BEFORE i did any diag, once i replaced it DONE it starts first time every time. That was a year ago, now every now an then some of my accessories will not operate until i wiggle the key just a little an then everything works. So i ordered an carry another switch with me.


Ignition solenoid testing
StephenW

When my dash fans and power shades quit working, I checked fuses which were all good then tested the ignition solenoid and with the ignition on power was going in but no power coming out so I removed the solenoid and replaced with the same part number from my local NAPA store. Problems solved in my case.  Also I have done as Rik W suggested about tightening connections.  Good luck!


8.3 ISC water pump failure
Dr4Film

This thread is a great advertisement for Coach-Net Emergency Roadside Service. If you or anyone who runs the roads would have had Coach-Net, a simple phone call they would have dispatched a tow company with the proper sized tow truck to haul your coach to a proper repair facility which would replace your pump and hopefully they would have had one in stock. Or could have gotten one over-nighted to your location. Plus the good part is that the tow no matter how many miles they would have towed you to the repair facility would only cost you just a signature.


Ignition solenoid testing
Ivylog

Looks to me that you have 2 sources of +12V (one red & one black) power to the 3 boards… the grounds are at the items. Not sure why the jumper was added from the red +12V to the 15A clearance lights fuse… surprised your clearance lights work and those connections need cleaning.


8.3 ISC water pump failure
wayne.cerven@gmail.com
21 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

This thread is a great advertisement for Coach-Net Emergency Roadside Service. If you or anyone who runs the roads would have had Coach-Net, a simple phone call they would have dispatched a tow company with the proper sized tow truck to haul your coach to a proper repair facility which would replace your pump and hopefully they would have had one in stock. Or could have gotten one over-nighted to your location. Plus the good part is that the tow no matter how many miles they would have towed you to the repair facility would only cost you just a signature.

Thanks for the info Richard, we were going to renew our CAA RV plus but their service is unlike coach net, if you flat out it has to be on a rim and only tow 100 miles,I just sent customer service an email to see if we can be members as Canadian citizens,  

Thanks 

Wayne 

1999 Signature Caesar 


drip rail
Paul A.
On 9/4/2021 at 8:57 PM, pulsarjab said:

Does anyone know where to purchase the drip rails that are on the side of the slide out? I have seen these on most of the Monaco line.

 

Greg

2000 Diplomat

I would try; https://www.steelerubber.com/      or;   https://shop.findmyrvparts.com/


Ignition solenoid testing
waterskier_1

I agree with Ivylog, that black wire is likely a +12 VDC jumper (don't know why) and NOT a ground.  It would be easy to determine, check the voltage between the two, and then between each one and a known ground.  The closest wiring diagram I have is for a 97 Dynasty.  It is wired differently.  The house battery (called "Domestic") has the Spotlight, Dash Fans, 12V Outlets, CB, Front (& Rear if applicable) Radios, Hood Light, Bay Lights, and Step.  Those would work whenever you have the House Battery turned on.  Then it has "Chassis" terminal strip that is connected to the Chassis battery.  That operates Security System, Security Siren, Clearance Lights, Docking Lights, Radio Memory, Horn, Brakes, Running Lights, ABS, and Hazard lights.  Lastly, there is the "Ignition" Terminal Strip.  This is active only when the ignition is turned on which energizes the Ignition Relay (solenoid) you asked about.  It supplies power to the Backup lights, Mirror heat, Wipers, Gauges, Air Dump, Step Ignition (to move the step in/out when ignition is turned on), Security System Optional, Dash A/C, TV (Inhibit TV when ignition is on), Levelers, Mirrors, Cruise, Air Dryer, Driving/Fog Lights, Eng Brake, Fuel, and ABS for Ignition.  I know this is different than your 95 Dynasty (do you have a wiring diagram for the Front Run Bay?) but maybe the theory of how things were wired will help.  If you wanted to jump the Ignition Relay, it is likely located at the end of that Large Red cable.  There should be another large cable going to the Ignition Relay, along with two much smaller wires.  Jump between the two large wires.  But do this only with the engine shut off, and for a short term test.  If the engine is running, you might not be able to shut off the engine since the fuel shut off will always be on.  


Ignition solenoid testing
Jim Bob

Thanks so much for the replies.  Cleaning and making sure they were tight is on the list to do.  There is no power coming to the large looped around black wire, so I'll see if I can trace a source of where it is coming from.  The solenoid side seems to be working fine.  I'm thinking if the black wire is a positive, then I should be able to disconnect the black wire and jump a known good positive to that terminal to see if the dash fans, etc work?  I would at least know the direction I had to go to run down a break or blown fuse or something.... from the FRB back to the batteries.  Does that sound reasonable?

Ivy, I was curious about that positive jumper wire myself.  No idea why that is there, but that is how it came from the factory.  The clearance lights work, but they are not your normal lights.  That must be the interrupt switch so you can use the ICC switch on the dash to flash the lights???  Just a guess. 

Thanks again everyone.  

Jim

 


Ignition solenoid testing
Ivylog

I would move the +12V red cable up to the bottom black cable (contacts need cleaning) to power those 2 boards and see what works.


Ignition solenoid testing
Jim Bob

small success.  I disconnected the black wire that comes in and jumped a positive and the basement lights and dash fans worked.  Now the bigger issue is I have no idea where that large black wire comes from.  I do not have battery disconnects and the other 12v house circuits work.  Any suggestions where I might look for a large black 12 v wire running from one end to the other?  It comes out of the top of the FRB, but cannot see anything looking down through the driver's left side controls (I can remove the cup holder and see a mess of wires but none of them are the size of the black one).  Any suggestions/guesses as to where that wire runs would be appreciated, I really have no idea where to even start to look.


Ignition solenoid testing
Ivan K

I would think that there would be few large fuses to protect the large gauge wires somewhere? Our high DC current box is beside the engine, it should be somewhere not too far from the batteries,  I would expect.


Ignition solenoid testing
Gary Cole

Jim the schedule you provided points to the chassis battery.

I would replace everything in your photo. Current carrying metal components are plated, oftentimes with cadmium,  so as to inhibit corrosion from chemical and electrolytic processes. Abrasive cleaning can be expected to remove whatever is left of the coating. Terminal blocks are inexpensive and are available with LED's which indicate a blown fuse. The DC ground (negative battery terminal), the chassis, the AC grounded conductor (neutral), and the AC equipment grounding conductor are all bonded together at a single point per the NEC. In order to identify a DC ground or either of the 2 grounded AC circuits check for voltage from the conductor and the chassis or something bolted to it. 


Ignition solenoid testing
Jim Bob

I little more success.  I found some black wires in the back near the engine and batteries.  It appears the solenoid that goes to the "salesman switch" is the culprit.  I jumped a known positive wire to one of the black wires and have operable dash fans and basement compartment lights.  Now my question is...  can I eliminate that solenoid?  I really hate having that power switch up by the front door.  Whenever you are carrying something wide or your inadvertently hit the switch it kills all the power.  Just a PIA place to have that switch.  So, can I just tie all those power cables together on one post of some kind?  Other than not having a switch to turn off the power is there any other negative?  I currently don't have any kind of battery cut off back by the batteries.  Would installing a switch there be the same thing?  I can take pictures of that area if you need them.  Thanks again to everyone that has replied.  It is so helpful to have this group of people that can share their knowledge!!!

Jim


Ignition solenoid testing
Frank Bergamo

Jim,

yes, you can tie them together by hooking them up on the same side of the solenoid. Pretty common practice to eliminate the salesman switch. A battery disconnect at the batteries will shut down all 12 volt functions, another common practice to isolate batteries when not in use. Hope this helps.


model question
Brett63

Does anyone know if an 09 Dynasty or an 09 Executive and an 09 Sig would have the exact same front windshield?


Air Conditioner /thermostat
wayne.cerven@gmail.com

Ray

Funny ,I found that same thread on Friday, cleaned up the thermostat and fingers crossed seems to be working, going to try it on a short trip at the end of the week, if it acts up we have a specialty electronic shop in town that I will take it to and have them have a look, they said they have repaired thermostat before, going to print the thread and take it with me for their review. 

Thanks

Wayne 

1999 Signature Caesar 


Air Conditioner /thermostat
Ray Davis

Wayne,  way to go,  hope your repair does the job. 


model question
Ivan K

I don't know the answer but these people would: 

RV GLASS SOLUTIONS By COACH GLASS

888-777-6778


model question
vito.a

Should be the same. Same chassis.


2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
JDCrow

Found some time today 

A0D4E120-C567-4893-ACC2-F54107DFFAC0.jpeg

01C1182A-1B0D-4E68-B049-0A16A186E9DD.jpeg

41C04094-96C6-43BA-980F-54599EF6B405.jpeg

725E62FB-BACE-432D-A929-D7192F2DC025.jpeg

BC91C4D7-CD3E-4F0A-A142-8505501B27D5.jpeg


8.3 ISC water pump failure
Cubflyer

The Laramie, WY,  Love's shop mechanic (Cody) did a great job of the new pump installation, all thru the closet 'hell hole'.  A new belt and about 5 gallons of anti-freeze completed the job.   We were on the road to Denver by 11am.  Ran great, steady water temp under 200 degrees (about 180) even on the steepest grades.  I'm pleased to be back to normal ops.

Things I would have done differently...??  Given the age and past usage of the coach, replacing the pump when I was doing the PM service and filter changes would have been prudent.  Having a pump on hand would have made this a minor inconvenience and saved me at least $150 just on the cost of the pump, between "opportunity costs" (buying it retail at 'spot' price), plus the fee charged to go pick the part up (.75/mile).  A $700+ invoice had only 1 hr of labor on it.. at @$120/hr.

Richard, I have Good Sam road service that offers unlimited towing to a shop 'capable and willing' to do the repair, that may compare to your suggested Coach-Net, but I'm a stubborn, independent old mechanic, and unless I'm dead-in-the-water, I did not think about using that service.... probably should have.....

 

  


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