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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/539-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Roof Cleaning
bmulvenna@hotmail.com
Slobber Tube or Not?
JDCrow
Gauges vs scan gD vs blue fire
Steven P
Cummins Quick Service
6Wheels
Roof Cleaning
jacwjames
Gauges vs scan gD vs blue fire
MHRookie
RV Service in Lubbock
Dr4Film
Exhaust Overheating Code (1966)
Gospel
Roof Cleaning
David White
Engine still heating up
cterryl@sbcglobal.net
Exhaust Overheating Code (1966)
Gary M
Engine still heating up
Ivan K
Engine still heating up
Fonman
Roof Cleaning
bobstromain
Engine still heating up
Woody O
Exhaust Overheating Code (1966)
96 EVO
Replacing Front A/C
jwsroy
Replacing Front A/C
KevinH
Replacing Front A/C
vito.a
Creating the Toad
JDCrow
Ok What is this?
tmw188
Ok What is this?
vito.a
Ok What is this?
Nevada Rob
Ok What is this?
Jim Bob
Replacing Front A/C
Walker
Ok What is this?
tmw188
Roof Cleaning
96 EVO
RV Service in Lubbock
Rikadoo

New Posts

Roof Cleaning
bmulvenna@hotmail.com
Slobber Tube or Not?
JDCrow
8 hours ago, Danny B. said:

Thank you

Anytime 


Gauges vs scan gD vs blue fire
Steven P

When I bought our coach, most of the gauges did not work.  I bought a Scangauge D and hooked to the dx port by the steering wheel. It gives all gauge information except tranny temp.  I do not use it for a fuel gauge, but you can tell it how much you have at fillups and it will calculate it. It does not account for the generator.  Now that my Aladdin is working,  I mainly use it, but I like having the Scangauge as a backup and I keep my main info showing on it. 


Cummins Quick Service
6Wheels

Both Microsoft Edge and Google chrome are based on the same code now.  Either should work as well as the other.


Roof Cleaning
jacwjames
16 hours ago, Jim Bob said:

I think just magic elbow grease is what most people use.  I invested in a cover and it is a wonderful thing.

In the past our coach was parked outside but not under any trees, although it was dirty it was manageable.  It took me two days on my hands and knees scrubbing with a brush and soapy water,  I then applied Zep Floor polish, this supposedly was the cure for the white streaking.  Worked for a little while but not really a "cure". 

Fast forward, moved to a new house and the coach was parked mostly under trees.  This took it's toll on the roof.  Finally was able to build a garage and decided to tackle the roof.  We have a small electric pressure washer and a rotary head something like this https://www.lowes.com/pd/Greenworks-Pro-Greenworks-12-in-Surface-Cleaner/5001554475  , this worked great, it took off the accumulation of build up pretty quick and I was able to work around the AC's, vents, solar panels pretty good.  Did use a small tip on some areas. 

I then applied two coats of Rustoleum Topside paint. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rust-Oleum-Marine-Coatings-White-Semi-Gloss-Enamel-Oil-Based-Marine-Paint-Actual-Net-Contents-32-fl-oz/3111185   it took ~2 quarts.  I taped off the perimeter edge, used a small brush for tight work but applied most of it with a 6" foam roller.    This was about 4 months ago.  I did take a ~5 week trip, the paint seemed to hold up.  Time will tell if it lasts.  


Gauges vs scan gD vs blue fire
MHRookie

Steven P,

     That’s part 2 of my issue… No Aladdin coach (thankfully) BUT Trip Tek system gets same signal as gauge and it always says full.  Oh well, new parts coming will fix me up.

Thanks,

Kurt


RV Service in Lubbock
Dr4Film
10 hours ago, Rikadoo said:

Is that the only state you have in your Arsenal of information or do you have the rest of the US?

That web site covers all 50 states!

Just click on Home Page in the upper right corner.


Exhaust Overheating Code (1966)
Gospel

Okay I am learning about regen, I just purchased 2008 Monaco Knight in 6/21 and Just completed a 4500 mile trip with plenty flat area's for a regen. Never had a regen icon show up on instrument panel. Ist steep grade in the Big Horn NF the engine shut down with no warning. I tried a restart, it started no power and shut back down when i put it in drive, tried 2nd time same thing, 3rd time it started, put it in drive and away we went.  Had a 2nd & 3rd shut down with nothing showing up on the instrument panel. All on steep grades, running on semi flat land was no problems that I could detect. I did have the Stop engine/Aftertreatment Diesel particulate filter lights come on for a split second then go back out. Never came on again and only did it once. I stopped at a small shop in Colo and had them put a computer on and code 1966 came up, They erased that code. I have a background in as diesel mechanic but it been 50 years since I worked or thought about one. 

Have the ECM updated to the latest software, replace the three sensor for the DPF filter and see where I'm at but after reading some of the post I'm not sure, rather not reinvent the wheel so I asking for a 1,2,3 type of approach. I talked to the local Cummins shop in Austin, not impressed with the service advisor answers. 

Ready to act on it. 


Front A/C-heat pump not blowing cold or hot
Cubflyer

This morning with the advice given here, Ivan, Jim, Gary, Gary... I let the machine talk to me with my ears tuned in... It is doing all the things Ivan said it should, so freon could be the issue... I'm on the road so I do not have access to the equipment I have at home (torch/silver solder, vac pump).  For now, I'll see if I can get my wife to tough it out with just one a/c...  🙂   She wanted me to just have a new one installed (at camping world (oh God!).

Ken

 


Roof Cleaning
David White

Bob, I think the above comments on elbow grease and the Dicor products are on track.  I remember ChrisT, at one of the Monacoers Gatherings, going over this process and his products of choice was Dicor.

I remember he said he did it himself and it worked on the old body. I think he used their clean and prep and the coating, and said it was a great product to do what you want.  It is still going to get dirty around trees, but easier to clean.

You might give Chris a call at TalinRV.  He would give you good advice.


Engine still heating up
cterryl@sbcglobal.net

Who replaced your thermostat. On a truck once I had replaced mine and it was somehow installed in a bind. It would open and then not close for a long time or not at all. Temperature would not get above 140 after climbing a hill and starting down the other side. Got into yard and and pulled housing off and found it stuck open. Could just have easily been sticking closed. If that was just replaced I would check that first. Especially if you were not having any problems before.


Running Norcold Frig off House breaker or inverter???
96 EVO

I've never bothered trying plugging my Dometic into the inverted ice-maker outlet.

I think the electric element is about 470 watts!

That's a lot of draw on your house batteries, and a very high load on your alternator going down the road!


Exhaust Overheating Code (1966)
Gary M
13 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

To answer your question - it all depends on a number of factors. 

The engine ECM will decide how best to burn off the DPF soot and control running the engine to spray fuel into the exhaust to have a controlled soot burn but not so hot that it damages the DPF ceramic.  

If you are doing a regen with say a normal soot load say at the 100 hour mark, that means that there is minimal filter back pressure and you can still operate at full engine power - no derate - if you need to.  The time it takes to do a regen depend on the internal back pressures in the 3 section of the DPF.  If a normal soot load, operating at say 60-65 mph on the highway with the engine brake off, it should take about 30 minutes.  But if you have high soot load it could take an hour.  If you use the engine brake the regen is suspended.  If you get below about 35 MPH, the regen is also suspended. 

Also, when the dash light comes on, it is only telling you to drive under conditions to do a regen,  It doesn't mean that the regen is actually being performed.

Under certain driving conditions or if you have a check engine light with certain trouble codes, the ECM will suspend the regen operation.  Driving a DPF coach with a check engine light on is asking for trouble because you could very well plug up the DPF and then you will get an engine derate before a stop engine light.

The shortest time to do a regen would be by driving 60-65 MPH, no engine brake, and no full throttle hill climbs.  On my coach, I've seen regens last as little as 20 minutes on flat terrains or take 40 minutes in the mountains.  All my regens happen at 100 hour intervals.  Once a year I check the DPF regen history report using the Cummins Insite software just to be sure I don't have a problem brewing that would show up as shorter regen intervals or soot loading higher than normal.

Hi Frank

I recently had a Cummins Care shop do a print out because of the issues on my 09 recently. They were less than helpful on helping me understand the info. I was wondering if I scan it as a PDF and sent it to you, maybe you might help me understand it. Naturally after going to this shop, I was told I should not go there as they have a bad reputation. After constant calling about when coach would be done, two weeks to do a 5hr service.


Engine still heating up
Ivan K
1 hour ago, cterryl@sbcglobal.net said:

Who replaced your thermostat. On a truck once I had replaced mine and it was somehow installed in a bind. It would open and then not close for a long time or not at all. Temperature would not get above 140 after climbing a hill and starting down the other side. Got into yard and and pulled housing off and found it stuck open. Could just have easily been sticking closed. If that was just replaced I would check that first. Especially if you were not having any problems before.

It is not so uncommon for even a new thermostat to be bad or way out of range. I test them in water on a stove before installing. 


Engine still heating up
Fonman

OK, I am going to go out on a limb here.

Peoples comfort level will vary, but…

Some facts,

plain water boils at 212

50/50 coolant mix boils around 235

50/50 with a 15# radiator cap boiling point is 265

If it gets 215-220 AND STAYS THERE, I would continue to take the precautions that you have, slow a bit, downshift, keep the RPM’s up, and run it.

A little aside.

Our first pusher, Cummins ISC, 300 hp, the fan ran full time.

We brought it to The chassis manufacturer and had the “2 speed” fan upgrade done. So, basically the fan ran at a very slow speed UNTIL…the water temp got to 205. Only then did the fan finally kick on.

Again, YMMV.

 


Roof Cleaning
bobstromain

Thanks for all the suggestions.  I was hoping it would be easy🙂


Engine still heating up
Woody O
1 hour ago, Fonman said:

OK, I am going to go out on a limb here.

Peoples comfort level will vary, but…

Some facts,

plain water boils at 212

50/50 coolant mix boils around 235

50/50 with a 15# radiator cap boiling point is 265

If it gets 215-220 AND STAYS THERE, I would continue to take the precautions that you have, slow a bit, downshift, keep the RPM’s up, and run it.

A little aside.

Our first pusher, Cummins ISC, 300 hp, the fan ran full time.

We brought it to The chassis manufacturer and had the “2 speed” fan upgrade done. So, basically the fan ran at a very slow speed UNTIL…the water temp got to 205. Only then did the fan finally kick on.

Again, YMMV.

 

Im keeping the RPM's up, The engine will de rate at 225.

1 hour ago, Fonman said:

OK, I am going to go out on a limb here.

Peoples comfort level will vary, but…

Some facts,

plain water boils at 212

50/50 coolant mix boils around 235

50/50 with a 15# radiator cap boiling point is 265

If it gets 215-220 AND STAYS THERE, I would continue to take the precautions that you have, slow a bit, downshift, keep the RPM’s up, and run it.

A little aside.

Our first pusher, Cummins ISC, 300 hp, the fan ran full time.

We brought it to The chassis manufacturer and had the “2 speed” fan upgrade done. So, basically the fan ran at a very slow speed UNTIL…the water temp got to 205. Only then did the fan finally kick on.

Again, YMMV.

 

 

2 hours ago, cterryl@sbcglobal.net said:

Who replaced your thermostat. On a truck once I had replaced mine and it was somehow installed in a bind. It would open and then not close for a long time or not at all. Temperature would not get above 140 after climbing a hill and starting down the other side. Got into yard and and pulled housing off and found it stuck open. Could just have easily been sticking closed. If that was just replaced I would check that first. Especially if you were not having any problems before.

A very detailed oriented mechanic.


Exhaust Overheating Code (1966)
96 EVO

I'll have to try and remember to take a screen shot of my engine hours on the Alladin, next time it regen's.


Front A/C-heat pump not blowing cold or hot
Hypoxia
19 hours ago, Ivan K said:

I put the port on what would be considered the high side because that's what's convenient and charge it with R22 in heat mode. 

I'm not following that logic.  The compressor doesn't do anything different in heat or cool.  The high side is always the high side.  Are you charging it after the reversing valve?  I can see that working but never considered it before.


Front A/C-heat pump not blowing cold or hot
Cubflyer

Ok Rik and others here... Later this morning, with my new knowledge of how things are supposed to work, (fan- rev valve solenoid- compressor) and cool morning air,

I got up on the roof and pulled the cover.

It was dirty, the foam was slightly out of place, and some wires had insulation in rough shape. with the cover off, I had the wife turn it on while I observed... fan, solenoid, compressor all ran (in that sequence).  The compressor did get warm to the touch after a while, but the condensor never got warm, the high side never got hot, the evaporator never got cool.... I did not see any clear signs of a freon leak (oily residue) but it sure acts like low freon, unless there is something else that I do not know about.  I understand and I'm familiar with 'straight Air Cond', but have no experience with reverse-cycle 'heat pumps' so if there is some other sensor or control that can cause these symptoms I would like to hear about it.

Thanks for listening!

Ken

P.S. my cell phone (hot-spot internet connection) fell out of my pocket on to the gravel surface while getting things in/out of my basement compartments and now I only have internet while at McDonalds or some where..!!  "home" button is inop.  If I get a call I can answer it, but I can do nothing else.... no "Home page"  


Powergear leveling jack controller location 2004 HR Scepter
ok-rver

Jack stopped coming up all the way. Removed maybe 1/2 cup more of fluid. Now seems to be working.

I have looked all over coach for Powergear controller. Not in the compartments unless it has cover over it. Will check under dash and behind radio.


Powergear leveling jack controller location 2004 HR Scepter
johncvandoren@gmail.com

You may find what U need in tech tips


Front A/C-heat pump not blowing cold or hot
Ivan K

 

1 hour ago, Hypoxia said:

I'm not following that logic.  The compressor doesn't do anything different in heat or cool.  The high side is always the high side.  Are you charging it after the reversing valve?  I can see that working but never considered it before.

Exactly. On the long line along driver side. Much more cumbersome to do it at the short compressor lines. Only possible with heat pump turned on, of course. 23.6oz R22 in my case.


Front A/C-heat pump not blowing cold or hot
Ivan K

Ken, I also did not have an oily spot because the pinhole was at high point where the vertical line from top of compressor makes a very sharp turn down. And I did not look for it until months later since we were boondocking with broken generator. Only was detectable under pressure. I could not believe they bent the line so sharp, like if it was meant to create a weak spot. I bet it was... 

BTW, the reversing valve changes freon flow so that your evaporator essentially becomes a hot condenser and vice versa.


Replacing Front A/C
jwsroy

I have to replace the front A/C on our 2005 Monaco Knight.  The fan motor has gone south and after a three month back order I finally got a replacement but no one can get the old one out without tearing up the works.  These are the original units on a coach used full time for all 16 years and corrosion and the elements have taken their toll.  Both units are Duo Therm Penguin low profile heat pump and A/C units.  I have a couple of questions.  I seem to be able to find both the new Dometic Penguin II units as well as their higher profile Brisk Air units.  My current system has the two A/Cs and the two furnaces controlled by a single thermostat.  Two temp sensors, one in front one in back.  Everything interconnected with telephone cord type wires.  I had the five button CC thermostat, but recently replaced it with a Micro Air unit.

I have been doing some internet research, which not surprisingly provides more questions than answers.  The consensus seems to be that putting a new unit online with a legacy unit 16 years old requires replacement control board(s), new thermostat and, depending on who's providing the info, new wiring.  If all that is true it almost makes sense to just proactively replace both units since it is probably just a matter of time before the back one gives out too.  We are full timers and spend a lot of time in the desert, so the units get a work out.  So my first question is whether anyone on the Forum has done a single replacement of an older Dometic and what issues they had to contend with.  Also any thoughts regarding just doing both units at the same time.

The second is whether anyone knows what the pros and cons of the two primary Dometic units, Penguin II and Brisk Air.  Both are available with heat pumps, both available as 13.5 or 15 BTU.  I think both can be used with a ducted air system like I have in our coach.  I don't really care much about high or low profile, we don't go anywhere that few inches will make any difference.

Appreciate any thoughts pertinent to my situation.

Thanks

Roy Holt

2005 Monaco Knight

2017 CMax Energi   


Replacing Front A/C
KevinH

I changed out my front AC unit. First thing I did was get the model number off the unit.I called Dometic to find out what model I needed to swap it out with. They gave me the model number and told me that my five button thermostat would not work unless I changed out the board so I went with the new thermostat. I also went with an AC only because we never use the heat pump option on the old one. I also got the model number for the drain pan and purchased that also.           Then I started to research everything online .It was basically an easy swap out.           So I order the unit on Amazon with the drain kit and the new thermostat. When I receive the unit the first thing I looked for was instructions there were none. I called the seller and they told me that’s how it came from Dometic no instructions no hardware.      The drain kit did come with instructions so I started with that. I installed it then I put the unit on the roof and hooked up all the wires the exact same way they were hooked up on the old unit there are two yellow,two blue, one red one black.the two yellow are not used. I hooked up the other four wires. there are two 

Telephone cable connections. I only needed one because my Front units is a one zone system for the front of the coach and then hooked up the new thermostat temporarily. Then I hooked up the main power basically the same way the old power on the old unit was hooked up.Everything worked properly.  I have an aqua hot system and it was not showing up on the thermostat. So at this point I figured I needed some instructions and called Dometic. they emailed me instructions. after that it was pretty easy other than making sure you line up the ductwork. 


Replacing Front A/C
vito.a

I replaced one of our Duo Therm Penguins.  I had to also order a conversion control board because on our coach the two A/C's are controlled by one 5-button thermostat.  The old 5-button Comfort Control thermostat is not compatible with the new A/C without the new conversion control board.  And the new programmable thermostat will not work with our older A/C.  

The new units utilize the same wiring (RJ11 telephone cords).  

The Penguin is similar to the Brisk Air with the compressor turned sideways.  This makes the units lower (I think 2").   They work identical and both are available in 13.5k and 15k BTU.  If you live in the desert as we do I would encourage you to go with a 15k unit.  

There is also a new designed Dometic A/C unit (Blizzard NXT) available but I could only find it in black.  

I purchased my unit from PPL RV parts department.  They are very knowledgeable and have great customer service. 

https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-appliances/air-conditioner/air-conditioners-coleman-dometic?facetValueFilter=tenant~manufacturer%3adometic

I installed the A/C myself.  Once you get it on the roof there are only four bolts holding it on.  

There are small dip switches on the control board that tell the system if you have a furnace connected and what zone as well as a few other things.  These must be set the same as the old unit.  

Detailed thread: http://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/replacing-a-dometic-ac-heat-pump-on-a-monaco-coach-405503.html

Hope this helps.  


2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
JDCrow

Finished up the headlights. Tackling the entry and the inverter/battery 

76CFBC8F-5060-4955-BC61-E87BF3E6193D.jpeg

BA100D8B-6231-4B39-A27B-7E880271CF45.jpeg


Creating the Toad
JDCrow

Got the bumper on, still working on lights. Been searching the country for these clips for the Coilovers, ended up having to buy a whole shock. Hopefully can wrap up 

FEB22125-E24B-429C-BD2B-04D1E1BAAFA7.jpeg

01AF6350-AAA4-4982-887A-99F2B5702471.jpeg

6A19F8FB-4282-4A9D-AD4D-CC30F4443B32.jpeg


Ok What is this?
tmw188

Under the coach today putting the collection bottle on my CVT crankcase ventilation tube and was taking pictures and recording images. What is this? Almost looks like a AC Drier? Located way in the back up high near the electric fuel pump.  

479628B6-03C8-4700-87CA-A3995F482DC5.jpeg


Ok What is this?
vito.a

You're right.  It's the A/C drier for the dash A/C.  

Ours is up front next to the generator.  


Ok What is this?
Nevada Rob

I thought that was the blinker fluid container for the rear turn signals. I guess I was wrong.


Ok What is this?
Jim Bob

Nope, that powers the wobblin shaft for the smoke grinder.


Replacing Front A/C
Walker

I recently was in a similar situation.  I decided to replace both units and use the new thermostat.  I like the new thermostat better.  I went with 15k blizzard nxt heat pumps.  They work well and are quieter than the penguins they replaced.  


Ok What is this?
tmw188
1 hour ago, vito.a said:

You're right.  It's the A/C drier for the dash A/C.  

Ours is up front next to the generator.  

Figured it was but seemed to be in a odd location. Maybe closer to the condenser is better?


Roof Cleaning
96 EVO

After you have washed your roof, be prepared to wash the sides and ends 😉!


2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
JDCrow

Cleaning house in the battery compartment. Bye bye bird. 
 

Here is the new inverter 

EAF85542-4AE0-4F46-835B-2863E6F902CA.jpeg

C5341D42-D4CD-4764-ACF7-2C8C8C73E634.jpeg

89B91523-8ED1-4A93-8ECB-FFC6FE512674.jpeg

0437A124-4ED5-43F9-B3B9-CEEEC09DE80F.jpeg


Front A/C-heat pump not blowing cold or hot
Rikadoo

Allright, SO IF the high pressure side IS NOT GETTING HOT! Lets look at this, either NO freon, or a pressure valve is stuck! So UNLESS we can have a set of gauges on it WE REALLY JUST DONT KNOW!!! So, my feeling is if it was working yesterday “ok” an today NOTHING, if unless we could see a spray mark showing where all the freon shot out of, what would be your next conclusion….

I have not had these pumps appart, so I dont know them, can a pump run an not build pressure? Or can a heat pump valve go neutral an allow flow to go in a non pressurised position. This is tooooo much to concider for “what if” Oh yeah an how old is this unit??? Use the “KISS” methode!!!

Work on a price for a new unit, install it, connect it, run it an crack a beer while its getting cold inside.🍻😳👍


RV Service in Lubbock
Rikadoo

Stating upfront what im writting is based on frustration, that givin how the rving Industry has exploded in such a short time you would think Someone would /could figure it out.

So Richard, i needed something just like this when i was STUCK in RENO, (which used to be my home town) in Feb with what i thought was a bad wheel bearing. You would have thought i had 3 eyeballs, NO ONE WOULD HELP ME GET A FLIPPEN DIAG!!!

This was WITHOUT a doubt the WORST in rv assistance i have EVER heard of or recieved! ALL STOP! I even had small companys argue with me stating “they service there appointment customers first!!!

well DUH! We all understand that!! All i wanted was SOMEONE to say, we understand you are enroute, we will perform a quick inspection and give you an answer, which if it “needs more” we will have to Schedule you, if nothing looks bad at this time, well patch you up an you can be on your way. 
AND before i get a hail storm of folks saying they have to honor there prior commitments, i spent at least 7 years doing JUST THAT, road traffic would come at us all the time with just that request. Most we put back on the road in short order, others would be squeezed into our regular work flow. And our schedules all got massaged an most everyone understood, cause i believe they all knew, “that could be them”
 

Shame on Reno for NOT being more accommodating for folks ON THE ROAD, i mean i spoke with mobiles, dealerships, an cruised the internet looking for SOMEtype of friendly rv repair facility, ZERO COMPASSION!!! OH! And dont get me started about Truck stops, or especially tire shops that said “WE Dont WORK ON CAMPERS!!!” 
i own a very nice looking 2003 HR 36 ft rv, there is NO DIFFERENCE between my rig an the BUS thats already parked in your bay…

Its not like i came to your town wanting to spend hours being parked an paying a kings ransome waiting on someone to inspect my rig…

Finishing this RANT, when i did find a place that would agree to perform an inspection there were Two 18 wheeler tractors there during my “visit” one had been towed in Before i got there, the other arrived after my rig went to the back room, the first one left before mine was done. The other guy was told what parts had to be ordered as i was waiting for my coach to be brought up front. 
 

Because of my in frequent needs of having issues on the road i have nothing to base this unexcusable behavior to, IS THIS “SOP”??? Or does RENO deserve the honor of “worst of Accommodating service award???

i know EACH person / case is different, im not lookin for folks to pile on, im mearly looking to hear if places could do better, if perhaps the city of commerce could have a chat with bussiness leaders to identify issues how they relate to the public, in regaurds to emergency service breakdowns. 

 

 


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