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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/541-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Tag axle tires won’t move
Romeo84
Ok What is this?
tmw188
Slobber Tube or Not?
Danny B.
Dometic roof A/C: compressor, no fan
Jim McGarvie
Ok What is this?
Dr4Film
Roof Cleaning
jacwjames
Bathroom heat
Dr4Film
Dometic roof A/C: compressor, no fan
Ray Davis
Bike rack on DP
Rikadoo
Bike rack on DP
Barry W
Bike rack on DP
DavidL
Tag axle tires won’t move
Ivylog
Bike rack on DP
JDCrow
Speedometer reading incorrectly.
Oregon04Windsor
Modernizing my 2008 Safari Cheetah
jlrrig38
Speedometer reading incorrectly.
waterskier_1
Bathroom heat
waterskier_1
Tag axle tires won’t move
Hancoman
Roof Cleaning
96 EVO
Tag axle tires won’t move
Ivan K
Modernizing my 2008 Safari Cheetah
tomevansfl
Tag axle tires won’t move
96 EVO
Modernizing my 2008 Safari Cheetah
McHughes
Modernizing my 2008 Safari Cheetah
jlrrig38
Modernizing my 2008 Safari Cheetah
McHughes
2nd stage fuel filter relocation
monacodynasty05
Tag axle tires won’t move
Hancoman
Modernizing my 2008 Safari Cheetah
jlrrig38
Tag axle tires won’t move
96 EVO
Tag axle tires won’t move
Ivan K
Bike rack on DP
Jim McFarland
Oil, water vapor separator?
Steve P
Modernizing my 2008 Safari Cheetah
McHughes
Oil, water vapor separator?
Ivylog
Oil, water vapor separator?
Chuck B
Oil, water vapor separator?
Gospel
Entry door
Steve P
ARP controller
Joel & Susanna
Oil, water vapor separator?
Steve P
Oil, water vapor separator?
Ivan K
ARP controller
Gary M
ARP controller
Ivan K
Tag axle tires won’t move
Hancoman

New Posts

Tag axle tires won’t move
Romeo84

Drums or rotors? If it's a brake drum the shoes may be rusted give em a tap with a hammer on the inside. They may pop right up.


Ok What is this?
tmw188

That’s good to know Richard, hopefully I won’t need to replace that because if I do I was needing more than just that. 


Slobber Tube or Not?
Danny B.
19 hours ago, tmw188 said:

After cleaning everything really well I want to try and keep it that way. I’ll keep an eye on it to see how quickly it fills up, I would think extremely slow. Valve cover cap was leaking too.

46777954-4926-4812-BF72-C9CD15CB1A70.jpeg

FAD1D390-1B0C-471B-9F4D-364C3940A119.jpeg

Awesome thank you for sharing.

17 hours ago, Timaz996 said:

My tube is about a foot longer then yours. Make sure you have a hole at least 1" diameter near the top to allow air out. (vent) If you don't have a vent it will build pressure. When I change my oil I put in 5 gallons. This in just above the add mark and my engine doesn't use any oil or blow it out the tube. I only get condensation in the bottle. If I put the oil level close to the full mark my engine will slowly use it out the tube.

 

Tim  

Nice I'll give this a go on my next oil change.


Dometic roof A/C: compressor, no fan
Jim McGarvie
15 hours ago, Ivan K said:

I think they make them run off backup batteries,  Jim would probably know best.

Thanks for your confidence in me, but I'm not sure I know how it works. I think the batteries in the thermostat are primarily for display and memory. The thermostat it is replacing is really only a switch, right?


Ok What is this?
Dr4Film

Correct! Seldom does the drier need to be replaced unless the system has been opened up for a repair or replacement of failed parts. It SHOULD be replaced each and every time anything has been done to the system other than adding new coolant.


Roof Cleaning
jacwjames

I've commented on the use of a pressure washer twice, this worked really well.  It was fast and did a good job.  Once I was done on the roof I went around the outside and sprayed off the sides of the RV.  The small rotary head was the trick, it cleaned the roof evenly.


Bathroom heat
Dr4Film

Ronnie, look at the photo posted previously and you will see the fourth pump mounted below the upper three and it is turned vertical.


Bike rack on DP
Rikadoo

I have a question, I wish to bring my bicycle along with me on my journey as I travel however im concerned the heat from the radiator may effect the cables or seat, melt grease from the crank assy, or ??? is there a bike rack that mounts off the side of the rv or how do others handle this.


Bike rack on DP
Barry W

Put bike rack on Gran Cherokee


Bike rack on DP
DavidL

Never heard of an issue of motor heat affecting a RV bike rack / bikes.  Oil and dirt, yes.


Tag axle tires won’t move
Ivylog

I would build up 109+ psi before releasing the brakes and se if they still do not turn. Both tires not turning because of the shoes rusting to the drums is possible but not likely. I would watch the arms that should move when someone else releases the parking brakes (on level ground)… if they move then both shoes are rusted to the drums. Time to chock the wheels, put blocks under the hitch (not the receiver), and hit the metal parts of the shoes with a punch with the brakes released.

 


Bike rack on DP
JDCrow

Get a rack that hangs off the ladder 


Speedometer reading incorrectly.
Oregon04Windsor
11 hours ago, Rick A said:

This speedometer isn’t digital it’s a manual speedo. The dial has a conversion on it so you read the miles/hr on the outside scale and the km/hr on the inner scale. If you have a GPS it might tell you what speed your doing. That way you celebrate the error factor and maybe you could see if the dial face has slipped out of alignment? 

Thanks for the reply.  The Aladdin and my GPS does register the correct MPH, it's just the speedo itself that's incorrect.  I'll inspect the back of the unit for dipswitches and hopefully get lucky that it's set to kmh.  Would seem odd since coach has only 14k miles and two owners, near as I can tell was always a US coach.

 


Modernizing my 2008 Safari Cheetah
jlrrig38

How did or what did you use on the rear access hatch to lock it down in the floor?


RR8S chassis leaning on air bags after shutdown
ok-rver

I now have about 2 hours under coach and with my arms into wheel wells spraying soap solution first and now windex (Cummins service center suggestion) on fittings. I found a very small leak at the dump solenoid where the fitting screws into the solenoid body. Pulled apart and teflon taped, no leak but coach still leaning overnight. I have sprayed the leveling valve down liberally with solution. There is a tube about 4" long that appears to be the exhaust. Filled tube but no bubbles. Sprayed the valve  area where the shaft goes into the body thinking maybe the seal is bad. no bubbles. I have leaned my arm against the flat bar that supports the valve from the bottom of the MH frame. the valve kind of groans maybe a bit of air flow. even spraying the hoses that are exposed in the wheel wells. Not having any luck with the leak. Any suggestions on where it might be?


RR8S chassis leaning on air bags after shutdown
Dr4Film

I have had "professionals" spend countless hours and my money on searching for air leaks and found none.

I fought a air leveling problem for years but finally decided to have Josam's go through the air leveling system in the rear and within a few hours found a few problems. Fixed them in the 6-Pack and wiring and I've been a happy camper since then.

As far as air leaks casing the two large air supply tanks to leak down, I no longer lose any sleep over it and it is what it is.


Speedometer reading incorrectly.
waterskier_1
56 minutes ago, Oregon04Windsor said:

Thanks for the reply.  The Aladdin and my GPS does register the correct MPH, it's just the speedo itself that's incorrect.  I'll inspect the back of the unit for dipswitches and hopefully get lucky that it's set to kmh.  Would seem odd since coach has only 14k miles and two owners, near as I can tell was always a US coach.

 

The speedo isn't reading kilometers, if it was, it would be reading higher than true, not lower. 


Bathroom heat
waterskier_1

Many coaches use the basement heat loop for the bathroom.  Often there is a separate fan switch to turn on/off also.  If your is this way, make sure the basement thermostat is set to chime on, and then that the applicable pump is running, and the check valve isn't stuck. 


Tag axle tires won’t move
Hancoman

I will try that today. I don’t think they are rusted.  Wouldn’t be because of non use? We use the coach regularly 


Roof Cleaning
96 EVO

Yeah, that's what the door to door RV washers use in the large parks down south. 

Guess they are usually somewhat careful around your sealant, but it's up to you to ensure it's in good shape. I had mine done once, and just requested they didn't blast gallons of water into my engine air intake.


Tag axle tires won’t move
Ivan K

If you happen to be on gravel and are on brakes while slowly backing up, the tags may just drag through the rocks. See what they do with no brakes applied, you may not have a problem at all.


Modernizing my 2008 Safari Cheetah
tomevansfl

OMG Mike!

I just want to replace my driver's console cup holder with a deeper one so I don't spill my drink (non-alcoholic, of course) when I hit the brakes!

 

You've seriously given me ideas...unfortunately, I'm not as handy as you are.


Tag axle tires won’t move
96 EVO
2 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

If you happen to be on gravel and are on brakes while slowly backing up, the tags may just drag through the rocks. See what they do with no brakes applied, you may not have a problem at all.

Or, are they actually skidding on blacktop or concrete?


2011 Camelot 43 drain hose from Driver Side Slide kinking
vanwill52

Once again trying to help friends with problems. Coach is a 2011 Camelot 43 with ISL 400. It is a bath-and-a-half model with four slides. The two front slides are 30” slides, hydraulically actuated with an HWH system.

The DS front slide includes the double kitchen sinks, residential fridge, and stacked (but separate) Ariston W/D. The washing machine drain and kitchen sink drains are joined by black PVC? to exit to below the slide into a very rugged 1.5” white drain hose (spa hose?) obviously designed to withstand constant flexing as the DS front slide extends and retracts. The PVC exits beneath the DS slide with an elbow to “aim” the 1.5” heavy hose crossways of the coach. The heavy 1.5” hose is funneled through some steel tubing (meant to protect it, certainly). On the passenger side of the coach, the 1.5” hose is guided by some rollers to turn towards the rear of the coach, where it is then supported from beneath by a 1/8” thick aluminum “shelf” on which it is intended to “coil up” as the DS slide retracts. At that point, the 1.5” hose is directed to a bung on the Gray Tank. Unfortunately (and incorrectly, I suspect) the elbow connecting the 1.5” hose to the Gray Tank is aimed straight towards the DS of the coach (directly crossways of the coach). That means that each time the DS slide is extended, this 1.5” hose must make a 270* turn to enter the elbow going into the Gray Tank...or more nearly a sharp 90* turn at the elbow going into the Gray Tank.

NOW—the problem. This 1.5” hose can only make that sharp a turn a limited number of times before it “kinks” and begins breaking down the wire support of the hose material. The hose has finally flexed/kinked enough times to (1) develop a small leak, and (2) to begin to be restrictive enough to slow down whatever appliances are connected to it.

Until today, only the small leak (which traveled all the way to the wet bay (DS) on top of the Gray Tank) was evident. The owner (a capable guy with a capable wife) assumed, as I did, that he had a leak in some fitting behind the wet bay panel. A couple of years ago, I had sawed his wet bay panel in half in the middle and made a very sturdy way of removing each half separately. When we removed the RH half, we saw the leak was actually coming from the PS of the coach, flowing across the top of the Gray Tank, and dripping down behind the wet bay panel.

NOW—how about a solution? Obviously, the 1.5” hose needs to be replaced. That in itself seems a mammoth job. CAN ANYONE OFFER ANY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE IN REPLACING THIS HOSE?  The only solution I see, given the extremely tight spacing of the components, is to saw a "hatch" into the floor to access the area where the 1.5" hose enters the Gray Tank, REPOSITION the elbow going into the Gray Tank and replace the 1.5" hose.  Anyone else ever replaced this 1.5" hose?

And at least as importantly, has anyone found that the elbow entering the gray tank should have been aimed slightly toward the rear of the coach (instead of aimed directly crossways toward the DS), to prevent the 1.5’ hose from having to make a close-quarters 90* bend?

Sorry for the length of this post, but so many posts begin with asking help and giving so few details that folks who could be of great help simply don’t want to ask all the obvious questions the OP should have included.  Sorry I cannot include pix.  The area is inaccessible and barely visible.

Please help me help these folks! They are wonderful, loving Christian people who led me to faith.  They are parked in my RV shed at the moment.  We have a short punch-list of things to attend to, but this one is the most difficult.


2011 Camelot 43 drain hose from Driver Side Slide kinking
vito.a

Harry posted a great how to thread on replacing the flexible drain hose.  Several of us have had to replace it.  

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/kitchen-sink-flexible-drain-hose-replacement-383127.html


Modernizing my 2008 Safari Cheetah
McHughes

Jerry,  These are the engine hatch latches the coach came with.

 

engine_hatch_lock.jpg


Modernizing my 2008 Safari Cheetah
jlrrig38

Thanks for the info. They look like my baggage door locks. Will see if I can find them. Getting ready for new carpet and my hatch was just carpeted over. So will up grade it. Will make it a lot easier to access.


Modernizing my 2008 Safari Cheetah
McHughes

These are the same latches as the front generator cover.  Only these have a lockout screw to keep them from popping up when you walk on them.


Onan 12.5 Generator shuts down on engine start-up
Mike Wahl

I do have an ISM.  I have the Denso on the way.  Thanks for the heads up on the bolt.  I will make sure I plan enough time.  


2011 Camelot 43 drain hose from Driver Side Slide kinking
Ivan K

I had to replace ours but we only have it in the driver side slide. At least 5 years ago, spa hose from Home Depot. The ends were glued in with no good access so I cut the leaky hose leaving couple inches sticking out of the fittings and used a coupler with correct glue to put a new piece in. Yours sound way more complicated.


2011 Camelot 43 drain hose from Driver Side Slide kinking
Bob Jones

I had to do mine on my 2000 Diplomat. I know it's different but I cut a large access hole in the bathroom wall to get at it and later covered it with a stainless plate. I also did a fair bit of re-engineering to ensure it doesn't happen again. At the time it was a terrible job as it was the first major work I had to do and it leaked a ton. Lots of whining on my part 🙂 When I look back on it, cutting the access port in the wall was the ticket. Once I did that it all more/less fell into place. I also had to do a bit of re-design to ensure the issue never crops up again. Part of the reward was much smoother slide-out operation. Night & Day as it was binding.

I'm very happy that I cut that access port in the wall. I now have access to what used to be the inaccessible end of the slide out. I agree with your assessment on changing how the plumbing goes into the grey tank. When I first got the unit I re-engineered the black tank flushing system. This necessitated running new PEX across the unit and creating a new hole in the black tank on the passenger side. It was a fair bit of work because I had to take the wet bay apart but I can't tell you how glad I am that I re-engineered it. 

attachment.php?attachmentid=267076&d=1573948614


2nd stage fuel filter relocation
monacodynasty05

My secondary fuel filter on my 400 isl is located just above the starter. It is a pain to change, Has anyone moved it to a better location for servicing? If so do you have a parts list that you used?


Tag axle tires won’t move
Hancoman

Just gravel. Are you saying I should drive through the lot and try it on the street


Modernizing my 2008 Safari Cheetah
jlrrig38

Found the one's with the key, no lock out screw. Guess the one's with the key would work and keep them from opening. Thanks

Jerry


Tag axle tires won’t move
96 EVO

Tough call!

It's unusual for the tag brakes to rust stiff since they are not applied while parked. Can't see both bearings seizing at the same time 🤔!


Tag axle tires won’t move
Ivan K

Try it where you don't have to use the brake at all, gravel or not as long as the tag is down as normally. I don't know about you but when I am backing up, I usually have a bit of brake applied to go slow even at idle rpm and in my gravel driveway they may just drag through.

Or, if yours lift off the ground, try to turn them by hand...


Bike rack on DP
Jim McFarland

I’ve seen bikes mounted on the front of the Rv. 


Oil, water vapor separator?
Steve P

Back right hatch, below the oil and transmission fills, and purge tank.   What is it? 20210907_193420.thumb.jpg.de1e874b001e8266db1d0839be3b2d98.jpg


Modernizing my 2008 Safari Cheetah
McHughes

Mike H

The grills I made myself.  Attached with 5lb drawer/door latches from Amazon.

 

vent_grill.jpg

vent_grill_latch.jpg


Oil, water vapor separator?
Ivylog

Hydraulic reservoir 


Oil, water vapor separator?
Chuck B

Hydraulic fluid filter reservoir.  There are 3 filters in the reservoir.  They need to be replaced annually to keep the fluid filtered.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Oil, water vapor separator?
Gospel

I'm assuming the black cannister is what you are referring to, does it have 3 filters in it, if so do you have the filter #'s. I just bought a 2008 M Knight and I know they did not change anything in this reservoir. 


Entry door
Steve P

HELP!   I made a new Flange bushing and got it on the post with the flange to the outside of the door. The door handle wouldn't move the lock tab at that point point. So I so I gently removed the Flash bushing, expecting to have to thin out the bushing some more, and now the outside door handle just flops back-and-forth.. It has no tension on it. So it doesn't move the lock tab at all of course.  The inside handle appears to work, although I am afraid to close the door for fear of being locked in or out.  What have i done to disengage the outside handle and how do i fix it??


ARP controller
Joel & Susanna

Our fridge is giving us a small problem when running on LP. The ARP controller is shutting down the power to the controller board when using LP after 10-30 minutes. I stop, reset the power, go for another short while. On 120 shore power or on the generator, the fridge runs forever and very satisfied with cooling. 

Can anyone share what might be going on, I do not have the setup info on this controller, the readout seems to be measuring? 

Any info sure would be appreciated. I had this fridge rebuilt by a fly by night shop five years ago, their gone, so is my ARP info!

3C9C956C-E8BA-4019-85FA-70A73B135AB0.jpeg


Oil, water vapor separator?
Steve P
56 minutes ago, Gospel said:

I'm assuming the black cannister is what you are referring to, does it have 3 filters in it, if so do you have the filter #'s. I just bought a 2008 M Knight and I know they did not change anything in this reservoir. 

 I doubt mine have ever been changed either. I don't know if this is the hydraulic fluid reservoir for the Jack's, or for the the large slide.  Any ideas? 


Oil, water vapor separator?
Ivan K

It's for your power steering and if you had a side radiator, for the fan(s).


ARP controller
Gary M

https://www.arprv.com/products-amp.php

here is the instructions fir the ARP


ARP controller
Ivan K

If it shuts off, it is telling you that it detected higher temperature than what's set as a safe limit. It is protecting you. It should turn on when safe again. Was gonna send the link but Gary beat me to it.


Tag axle tires won’t move
Hancoman

You were right Ivan. I was able to get some help today to watch pull forward and back up. Forward everything turned as should same with backing until I hit the brakes the tag locked up brake off everything turning.  I have been having alternator problems so I guess I was just paranoid. Thanks everybody for your responses 


Dometic roof A/C: compressor, no fan
Jim McGarvie
12 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

Thanks for the input, Ray. But I guess since you are recommending I replace my thermostat you must be assuming there is something wrong with our current one. Can I ask what makes you think that? Because I really don't want to lose the programming capability if I can help it. I don't use it for cooling, but for heating it follows a schedule keeping the interior at 72 degrees until 9 pm, then letting it drop to 55 (which it very seldom does) until about 1/2 hour before I usually get up in the morning, then warming it back up to 72 by the time I get up.

I don't have a reason to believe there is some reason a programmable residential thermostat shouldn't work properly with our particular A/C, primarily because it worked perfectly for two years.

What am I missing?


Tag axle tires won’t move
96 EVO

Good to hear it was nothing serious, but gota say, I'm surprised the brakes would overcome the traction that easy, if your tag is loaded.

I have a little over 7,000 lbs on my tag. That's almost the weight of 2 1/2 compact cars, on two tires! Can't see mine just skidding.


2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
JDCrow

Mounted the inverter. Ran the carflex from the inverter to the transfer switch. Upsized to 1” carflex 

Punched a new hole to run another run of carflex from inverter to distribution panel. Gotta peel back some foam route in the more. Will be adding a 3/4” Cardlex run to get power down to the back bay where the old inverter was and has the 2 runs (microwave, plugs) 

68271C4B-8598-4B7E-A808-8A4C75CFC0FB.jpeg

643AEDA7-2F6D-4CE8-882E-5250C20CE1EF.jpeg

69075D6B-9E1B-4543-8726-74697A53A23C.jpeg

17D8351C-28E4-4137-808C-6CB712F7E4AA.jpeg

229EDDFC-C7A0-4F29-9C72-015D0EA3851F.jpeg

B2DD39A3-BD4A-410A-BE28-7A5B89131AF4.jpeg


ARP controller
Joel & Susanna

Thanks guys, I appreciate the info and link. I never waited to see if it came back on by itself. Now the question is, if I’m producing too much heat with LP, there is a valve right there that perhaps needs to be throttled down to match the boiler temp using shore or generator power? I might give this a try. I think it is full on now.


ARP controller
waterskier_1
57 minutes ago, Joel & Susanna said:

Thanks guys, I appreciate the info and link. I never waited to see if it came back on by itself. Now the question is, if I’m producing too much heat with LP, there is a valve right there that perhaps needs to be throttled down to match the boiler temp using shore or generator power? I might give this a try. I think it is full on now.

LP will always give better performance (more heat extraction, or more cooling) than 110 VAC.  The unit was designed to run on propane.  The AC powers heaters to simulate the propane burner.  Too much heat from the AC heaters may cause fatigue of the coils since it's more concentrated.  This is the primary cause of refrigerator fires, not tree propane.  If the device is overheating on propane, your not getting rid if the heat up the flu.  Are your fans working properly? 


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