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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/542-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Roof Cleaning
throgmartin
Entry door
miacasa_2000
Modernizing my 2008 Safari Cheetah
McHughes
Roof Cleaning
bobstromain
Entry door
Steve P
Roof Cleaning
Pduggs
Speedometer reading incorrectly.
jcavataio5255
ARP controller
Dr4Film
Dometic roof A/C: compressor, no fan
Ray Davis
ARP controller
cbr046
ARP controller
Joel & Susanna
Bike rack on DP
michaelivan
Entrance door step
RS lakeshore
Entrance door step
Fonman
Dometic roof A/C: compressor, no fan
Ray Davis
ARP controller
Jon__C
Modernizing my 2008 Safari Cheetah
Chuck B
Entrance door step
Chargerman
Tag axle tires won’t move
Romeo84
Bedroom Slide Worm Gear drive box DN13462
stillrunning_60@hotmail.com
Bedroom Slide Worm Gear drive box DN13462
stillrunning_60@hotmail.com
Trailer Brake Controller Wiring
klcdenver
Full Throttle Generator
Nevada Rob
Entry door
drewat2
Entrance door step
Ivylog
Trailer Brake Controller Wiring
Ivylog
Entrance door step
Paul Busch
ScanGaugeD vs Stock Temp Gauge
MSHappyCampers
Dometic roof A/C: compressor, no fan
Jim McGarvie
Slide Sealant Caulking
jbret06
2014 Honda CRV
CRY1942

New Posts

Roof Cleaning
throgmartin

When we do roof renovations at our shop we powerwash the roof. We scrub the roof using a heavy concentration of Dawn 4X detergent. We then completely rinse the roof using the powerwasher. Dawn is a powerful cleaner that wont effect paint and l;eave stains down the sides of the coach. We then wash the coach immediately afterwards.

After the roof is dry the coach owner then selects what process he wants. If the paint or fiberglass is in good shape we apply a heavy layer of Aerospace 303. If the fiberglass or paint on metal roofs shows aging then we paint it using Dicor products.


Entry door
miacasa_2000

I would slowly go over every pc. with the pictures and diagrams on this site something did not get put back in right. Or just happened to break right at this same time. Also adjustments could have been made to take up the slop from not having the bushing in place and now with one in place you need to adjust again. that also could be what broke something if in fact that's what you find.  Put a step ladder up to a large unlocked window as you play with this from either side for you escape or entry. 


Modernizing my 2008 Safari Cheetah
McHughes

I guess I should have explained.  Mike H had asked where to get the wood grille for the Fantastic Fans and how they were mounted.


Roof Cleaning
bobstromain

Thanks Chris..... I will try the Dawn 

Bob


Entry door
Steve P

My first task is to figure out how to get the rusted screws out of the inside window trim...   

Oddly the door opens easier now (don't have to pop the door handle).

This will have to wait for a few other projects to get done, but I will be drilling a hole to get to a window latch!

Thanks everyone! 


Roof Cleaning
Pduggs

I’ve used Dawn the last four years with good results. Then I sealed it with this product the last two years. Holds up very well. No more streaking. 
 

CF507BED-8B96-411E-BFB3-A4CCA6DAE7F1.png


Dometic roof A/C: compressor, no fan
Dr4Film

Jim,

Here is a link to your specific AC, its installation and wiring diagrams. Possibly this may help you.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/799601/Dometic-57908-321.html#product-600315.321

I along with others are somewhat confused as to how your thermostat is wired seeing that normally these AC's are controlled with a 5 Button Thermostat.

Maybe a photo or two would help clear up the confusion.


Speedometer reading incorrectly.
jcavataio5255

A6BF8B6D-1786-4156-BC04-94D1B1CBB4AE.thumb.png.2ef5387a20096bfd2bb25687949b7eb5.png


ARP controller
Dr4Film

I agree with Rick N assessment. There are two box fans part way up the rear of the cooling unit that are used to help exhaust the heat from the back.

If they are not working or are only partially working, there in lies your problem. See photo.

image.thumb.png.2e203d6aea5eadab624e5933de803b4e.png


Dometic roof A/C: compressor, no fan
Ray Davis
11 hours ago, Jim McGarvie said:

Thanks for the input, Ray. But I guess since you are recommending I replace my thermostat you must be assuming there is something wrong with our current one. Can I ask what makes you think that? Because I really don't want to lose the programming capability if I can help it. I don't use it for cooling, but for heating it follows a schedule keeping the interior at 72 degrees until 9 pm, then letting it drop to 55 (which it very seldom does) until about 1/2 hour before I usually get up in the morning, then warming it back up to 72 by the time I get up.

I don't have a reason to believe there is some reason a programmable residential thermostat shouldn't work properly with our particular A/C, primarily because it worked perfectly for two years.

What am I missing?

Jim,  Sorry if I seemed to imply you needed a new thermostat,  I wasn't meaning to.  However the problem you have could be the thermostat,  or the control board, or in the wiring/connections to those devices.

I was actually addressing the discussion about what residential thermostat could control our Dometic A/Cs.   

The one I pictured is about as simple as they come but is not programable.

I would also like to know the thermostat you have and how it is wired into the A/C.

You mention that you don't use for cooling, will it control cooling?


Dometic roof A/C: compressor, no fan
Dr4Film
4 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

You mention that you don't use for cooling, will it control cooling?

Ray, I took his statement that he doesn't use the "programmable function" to control the cooling, only to control the heat but AFAIK he is controlling the AC & Heat with his current thermostat.


ARP controller
cbr046

LOL - Dr4Film That's *MY* unit!  The fans he's talking about are in the top cooling fins, not the middle ones. 

My insulation went away, not sure if it was rodents or deterioration of the insulation.  Replaced with galvanized ducting but still not performing as it should.  I also put shims in my top vent, raising it 1/4".  Still no change.  I need to replace the cooling unit and still in denial . . . or waiting on Winter? 

My unit shut off once from overheating, in AC mode.  Had to "wave the magnet" (not ARP).

Best,

- bob


ARP controller
Joel & Susanna

Thanks again, I am learning so much from you all about this unit. We are on a trip to Branson at the moment, not sure if the fans are being activated but I’m now watching this carefully. When we get back from this trip it will be my first priority to check out. Max temp so far was 191 on AC, I have it running on LP max temp 184, not moving however. I will bypass the control board tonight and see if the fans work.


2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
Rikadoo

Hey JD, good morning! I have a question why mount the inverter in the battery bay, i mean with lack of ventalation, and any gassing from the main engine batteries, that seems like a odd location. Please forgive my old mechanic ways, my old knowalge says corrosion, however my curious side says hold on seems he has an ace up his sleeve😳

i suspect your going to start using battelborn batteries or something equivalent, which for me is a VERY exciting concept in electrical storage, its just that i am such a tight ass its just hard to justify the initial cost. 

Im like a kid in a candy store watching innovative design changes take shape, in that newer trends of thought actually push the needle, past old established ideas that in the past were concidered the norm.

Thanks again for sharing…


RR8S chassis leaning on air bags after shutdown
dl_racing427

Mike,

You've received some very good advice here, but I'm very disappointed that no-one has brought up a serious safety issue.

NEVER, EVER get under any vehicle that is supported by air suspension or hydraulic jacks.
Though unlikely, a failure in the air or hydraulic system can suddenly drop the coach to within a few inches of the ground. Likely not enough room for your skull.
Get a good set of heavy-duty jack stands, rated for the load, and use them EVERY TIME!

I always hate reading about the coach owner who thought he'd only be underneath for a minute, and that was the minute that an air line or valve failed. 😭

The only time I even reach under my coach without them, is when I'm placing or removing the stands.

Good luck fixing your leaks, just please do it safely.
 


2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
JDCrow
32 minutes ago, Rikadoo said:

Hey JD, good morning! I have a question why mount the inverter in the battery bay, i mean with lack of ventalation, and any gassing from the main engine batteries, that seems like a odd location. Please forgive my old mechanic ways, my old knowalge says corrosion, however my curious side says hold on seems he has an ace up his sleeve😳

i suspect your going to start using battelborn batteries or something equivalent, which for me is a VERY exciting concept in electrical storage, its just that i am such a tight ass its just hard to justify the initial cost. 

Im like a kid in a candy store watching innovative design changes take shape, in that newer trends of thought actually push the needle, past old established ideas that in the past were concidered the norm.

Thanks again for sharing…

Yeah no worries, ask away. I’m learning as much as I can as well. 
 

2 things on location. Actually there is more ventilation in this bay than the bay the inverter was in previously. And yes, I have a 200ah smart (heated) lithium battery waiting to go in this bay.  
 

I’m also going to relocate the starting batteries to the bay the old inverter was in to free up room for a second house battery next year. 
 

I opted to by off brand batteries. I likewise am on a budget. A 200ah is down to $789, the heated 200ah I paid $1100 for. 

4EC0AB88-E597-4AC6-BD2A-800C15C25673.jpeg

A86C77BD-26B6-4CD0-B313-887A11183B7D.jpeg


Bike rack on DP
michaelivan

We travel with 3 bikes.  I carry the tandem on the back of the DP and our regular bikes on the back of the CRV.  I have used this set up for about 8 years on 2 different DP's and on the back of our 5th wheel before that.  I think I bought the adapter from etrailer.com. 


Entrance door step
RS lakeshore

My entrance door step will not retract all the way in. They are staying out about 8 ". They are the model 42 series by Kwikee  an this is the first time it has happened. I have had Kwikee steps on my previous motorhomes that I worked on but they would be stuck out or in. Never experienced a step that didn't close all the way. Getting ready to go to another location in 2 days and would appreciate your help. Thanks. 


Entrance door step
Fonman

Have you had a chance to try and oil any pivots?

Can you “help” it?


Dometic roof A/C: compressor, no fan
Ray Davis
13 hours ago, Jim McGarvie said:

Because I really don't want to lose the programming capability if I can help it. I don't use it for cooling, but for heating it follows a schedule keeping the interior at 72 degrees until 9 pm, then letting it drop to 55 (which it very seldom does) until about 1/2 hour before I usually get up in the morning, then warming it back up to 72 by the time I get up.

Richard,  Apparently he is using the programing feature,  at least for heat.   I still wonder what thermostat he is using.


ARP controller
Jon__C

Its also possible something is blocking the flue tube internally.  Theres a heat disperser that drops into the flue tube from the top that can be removed allowing access to the inside. Would have to pull the fridge out to get to it.  And When i worked for an RV dealer anytime we pulled a fridge we always flip it side to side and let it gurgle, they work better after doing this too. 


Modernizing my 2008 Safari Cheetah
Chuck B

You might want to weigh your coach to see if your in the weight limits.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Entrance door step
Chargerman

If your step has the roller bearing slides cleaning any lubrication should solve the problem. Road debris gets in there 


Bedroom Slide Worm Gear drive box DN13462
jacwjames

I've been working on my coach quite a bit and moving the slides in and out as needed.  The bedroom slide had started to drag on the floor a little and had gotten progressively worse but finally figured out that the screws that held the bed portion onto the slide box had loosened up.  Monaco used 5 small screws, they were all pretty much finger tight so I removed and used a large lag type screw plus added some extra so that problem is solved.

But while moving the slide in and out I noticed that the gear seems to be missing a tooth.  This is not the clutch type jumping that you get at the end of travel in/out.  This is while the slide is in motion, I can hear it jump a gear but then picks right back up again and moves.  I have the parts page (attached) showing my slide mechanism, it is a DeWald ass DN13796.  I suspect that it may the worm gear in the drive mechanism, it has a part number of DN013462,  

Has anyone had to repair this, if so what was the problem/solution. 

Is this the gear https://www.amazon.com/Lippert-Tuson-Slide-Venture-Motor/dp/B0833FN856/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=B0833FN856&qid=1631378518&sr=8-1

My slide is working but I'd hate to get stranded some where. 

 

 

 

1 Slideout Bedroom mechanism.pdf


Tag axle tires won’t move
Romeo84

Woa. I agree evo. Cool to see a follow up post with resolve.

 


Bedroom Slide Worm Gear drive box DN13462
stillrunning_60@hotmail.com

Having the same problem with my living room slide dragging the floor and has broken some of the tiles. Taking it into Day Brothers RV in London KY Tuesday to get checked out and hopefully adjusted. I do a lot of my own work but have no desire to begin working on slides. In your opinion James can you do an adjustment to stop dragging or is something needing a replacement like you did on bedroom slide. 


Bedroom Slide Worm Gear drive box DN13462
jacwjames
2 minutes ago, stillrunning_60@hotmail.com said:

Having the same problem with my living room slide dragging the floor and has broken some of the tiles. Taking it into Day Brothers RV in London KY Tuesday to get checked out and hopefully adjusted. I do a lot of my own work but have no desire to begin working on slides. In your opinion James can you do an adjustment to stop dragging or is something needing a replacement like you did on bedroom slide. 

The slide can be adjusted fairly easily.  Depends on your setup.

On my coach, with the kitchen cabinets in the slide, there are 3 rollers, 2 are accessible from the inside under the cabinets, and the third one from the outside in front wheel well.  Mine started to drag at the rear of the slide where the kitchen cabinet protrudes from the slide.  I removed the lower draw and you can see the roller assembly.  There is another under the sink this is accessible by lifting the false floor.  There is an adjusting bolt on top with lock nut.  Loosen ht locknut and turn the bolt to raise the front of the slide a little.  I adjusted the back two and left the front alone. 


Bedroom Slide Worm Gear drive box DN13462
stillrunning_60@hotmail.com

Thanks James I forgot to mention that my bedroom slide motor bite the dust 2 years ago and I had to send it to be rebuilt to the tune of over 700 dollars. Because of age of coach (2002) and the company that built it no longer in existence could not find a use or new replacement. Isn’t New Market next to Strawberry Plains?


Mac/air valve replaced and I have an issue.
Jim Bob

Had an air leak and I'm not sure what I've found.  On the front firewall, there are three different things.  Two look like "mac" valves the other I have no idea what it is.  One of the valves that looks like a Mac valve had a tee in it and a line that comes off and runs down to the other valve that looks like a Mac valve and actually says "mac".  I assume this is the one that goes to the step well cover?  At least it matches the one in the pictures above.  The 1st Mac looking valve I have no idea what it feeds and it is so high up and covered by a wiring harness that I can't get a very good look at it.  Does the heat/AC use an air line?  The other one is located in between the other two but not feed by the same line as best I can tell.  Anyone have any idea what these three things are? 

 

Second question mostly unrelated to the first...is regarding what I think is the air compressor governor.  There are two pictures of it.  It is mounted to the frame rail right next to the engine.

Third question, where do you source these parts?  The mac valves and the governor? 

Thanks as always.

Jim

Step well valve.jpg

middle valve.jpg

Top Valve.jpg

govenor.jpg

Govenor 2.jpg


Trailer Brake Controller Wiring
klcdenver

Need wiring schematic for the trailer brake wiring system. I know which wires go to which pins at the bumper. I need schematic that shows relays, diodes to the fuse and into the inside under the dash etc... I am trying to find #2 (blue) wire somewhere at the front so I don't have to run new wire to the rear. It must have a relay or diode because I cannot get it to tone out with wire tracer. 2007 Diplomat 40SKQ or other Diplomats about the same year would probably be the same or similar.

Thanks,

Kenneth


Mac/air valve replaced and I have an issue.
Ivan K

We have 2 Mac valves up front. Step cover and door bladder.  Could the third one be for your air horns? HVAC should use vacuum, typically. You governor is likely Haldex 18530. All these parts should be available at NAPA truck parts and many online places like Finditparts dot com.


Mac/air valve replaced and I have an issue.
Jim Bob

Might be the air horn, but don't have a door bladder, the other is the step.  Would there be a valve for the "Air Dump" switch?


Mac/air valve replaced and I have an issue.
Dr4Film

I have two MAC Valves, one for the step cover and one for the air horns. The Dash HVAC is controlled by Vacuum which comes from a Vacuum Generator.

Monaco also uses something similar for dumping the Air Bags.

 

image.png.22d47f244f26bb289a52ddfd9072eb49.png


Mac/air valve replaced and I have an issue.
Ivan K
10 minutes ago, Jim Bob said:

Might be the air horn, but don't have a door bladder, the other is the step.  Would there be a valve for the "Air Dump" switch?

Could be your air dump, easy to confirm?  Ours goes through sixpacks since we have no Jack's. I only have air dump for the tag axle lift and it is at the rear.


Full Throttle Generator
Nevada Rob

A little update. I replaced the command board with a Flight Systems board. Great customer service from Flight Systems. Install was maybe 20 minutes. Ran the generator for 4 hours with all three A/C units cooling with fan on high, refer and Magnum charger running. Not a single hiccup or stall. I did not replace any fuel lines or other items. The command board was the problem. On a side note, when I removed the coolant recovery tank to install the board I discovered the coolant tank was cracked and leaking at the threaded inserts. There goes another $175 for a replacement tank. 


Entry door
drewat2

Finally decided I could do the adjustment after reading this thread. Been a problem for a long time that required the outside magic opening procedure. The task of adjusting was easy and only a couple minutes to get it right. Unfortunately took several hours to get to get the inside door skin removed due to so many of the fasteners being buggered up requiring using an extractor among various other methods . We park for months on the beach in Mexico with the door open most of the time which led to the fasteners condition. The happy ending is all new fasteners and a door my wife now easily opens without me reminding her to push in and pull to the left to open


Entrance door step
Ivylog

You can push the steps in from the outside with the engine off and it takes 2 people… not to push but one inside to change the position of the step switch once it’s in and before you open the door. Pressure washing the ball bearings slides and oiling will help IF the bearings are still in the tracks…one of mine was missing the ball bearings.

Finally got around to replacing the bad slide and here is my rebuild: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/replacing-the-slide-on-my-08-navigator-steps-509795.html


Trailer Brake Controller Wiring
Ivylog

A 07 should have a white plug with 5 wires… prewired for a brake controller. Hopefully it’s near the left side of the steering column as Richard posted above. Wires are R, W, Blue, Black & yellow/black and has 66 on the plug.


Entrance door step
Paul Busch

I had the same trouble with my 05 sig. motor just got old and weak. Mine was from 1999 Ford Taurus, 99 tp 01 Lincoln or 99 thunderbird. All passenger window motors. Pretty easy change. Kwikee sent me a motor that was wrong then said I had ro do update kit for 600. Motor from Napa was 85. Good luck.


Bedroom Slide Worm Gear drive box DN13462
Cubflyer

Jim,

Are the surfaces of the bottom of the slide where the rollers ride still solid?  Mine had gotten soft and the slide made all kinds of different sounds while moving.... a pair of .040"  304 SS plates for the rollers to ride on made all the difference.... 

Ken


Bedroom Slide Worm Gear drive box DN13462
jacwjames

New Market it between Strawberry Plains and Jefferson City, just a bump in the road with 1 stop light. 

The bottom of the slide out is solid, no soft spots that I can see. 

Well, I would like to take a vote and see how many people think that who ever designs anything should have to work on it first before sending for final approval. 

I spent about 3 hours removing the motor and gear box and taking it apart.  They made it almost impossible to work on.  The previous link that I posted for the Tuscon gear is not the right one.  There was no other markings on the gear box or gears that I could see. 

I did not find any problems with the gears, there was plenty of grease in it but not much on the gears them selves.  So while I was working on it I made sure to lubricate the gears when I put it back together.  Having to work in tight quarters on my knees leaning over the edge of the bed was not fun.  It was just hard putting it back as taking it out.  I finally rigged a sling to get it positioned close to where it needed to be and then was able to get one of the mounting bolts started and then the second, what a pain.  Even the simplest thing as putting the 4 bolts in the coupling was a challenge. 

But in the end I got it all back together and tested.   I ran it in and out a couple times and it did not seem to "miss" like it was before.  The front corner did not drag on the floor as it had been doing.  So whatever I did seems to have cured my problems.  Replacing and tightening the screws that hold the bed frame to the the slide tightened everything up a lot. 

I have sent a message to Lippert, maybe they may have some info.

So in the mean time I just have my fingers crossed!!!!


Bedroom Slide Worm Gear drive box DN13462
Cubflyer

Jim,

Sounds like you have it under control.... I would still recommend adding the SS plates, as the engineer that designed that slide with a fiberglass panel covering a wood bottom of the slide never thought about it being around 20 years later.  My wood must have gotten wet, deteriorated, and the fiberglass was not up to the task of having that much weight concentrated on the contact area of the rollers....

As a person who maintained mechanical devices for a living (now retired??)  I totally agree, designers should have to take apart and access the stuff they design!!

Ken


Aquahot AHE-100-02s leaking coolant at filler neck
old5foot

Joe, I am having the same issue. Did you watch your radiator mechanic do the fix?

The neck on the fill/overflow tube on my unit barely comes above the case. Did your guy have to remove the case?  Looks like mine is riveted.

Also did he have to disconnect the fill/supply hoses to get the top off.

Just looking for background info. to communicate with the tech.

Thanks 

Old5foot

 

 

 

20210911_183430.jpg


2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
JDCrow

Trying to get the old carflex out. It runs wonky so it’s real tight quarters 

B648F6D3-1D7C-4291-AA06-073EB24CDA45.jpeg

12710759-226D-455A-99DE-5AD7E3741958.jpeg


ScanGaugeD vs Stock Temp Gauge
MSHappyCampers

Todd, I read a few days ago that the ScanGuage D has to be calibrated for your particular coach.  I had never heard that and I intended to check it out but haven't done so yet.,  


Aquahot AHE-100-02s leaking coolant at filler neck
Paul A.

Roger Berke @ http://rvhydronicheaterrepair.com/  has a modification/repair for those neck issues. 

He is an expert. You should consider joining his forum. 


Dometic roof A/C: compressor, no fan
Jim McGarvie
8 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

Richard,  Apparently he is using the programing feature,  at least for heat.   I still wonder what thermostat he is using.

The thermostat is a Honeywell RTH7600D. I use it for both heating and cooling, but I only use the programming feature for heating. I'm sure it would work fine for cooling as well, just haven't found the need.


Slide Sealant Caulking
jbret06

Hello,  I have a 2008 Knight PDQ and need some help identifying the type of  'sealant caulking' Monaco used under the slides.  I've attached three pictures.  This is looking up under the roadside bedroom slide.  On our last trip to the midwest, I had a leak on the frontside bottom of this slide and upon inspection it looks to me like there are some holes and voids in the caulking right at the corner.  Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

James Bradley   

1451.jpg

1452.jpg

1453.jpg


2014 Honda CRV
CRY1942

2014 Honda CRV needs a new home.

Last year the CRV can be flat towed.

Equipped with M&G Air Brake System and optional Break Away feature.

Does NOT include Tow Bar, Safety Chains, Electric Cord or Air line for the M&G

Approximately 135,000 miles, clean, normal wear.

Located in Whitney, TX. $14,000.00.

Contact: Charles email cry42@windstream.net

Lt Frt CRV.jpg

Rt Rear CRV.jpg

CRV Lft Int.jpg

CRV R Int.jpg

CRV Miles.jpg


RR8S chassis leaning on air bags after shutdown
Gary Cole

Air bleed down is always going a never ending problem in a system which uses insert tube fittings. Prior to insert fittings heavy duty vehicle air systems used steel braided hose and fittings which were rated for use in low pressure hydraulic systems. Typically leakproof for the life of the vehicle.  I installed a 12V air compressor so that I can maintain a user selectable air pressure in the suspension system and insure that the vehicle remains level when parked without the use of jacks and when necessary to assist the hydraulic leveling system when parked on soft surfaces. The 3rd time I spent several hours in the mud jacking and digging my hydraulic jack pads out of soft camp ground soil was the deciding factor for me.

One thought after I posted this comment. A trouble shooting technique which divides a problem in successive halves often succeeds. Perhaps a mystery air leak could be found if one divided his system in  half or quadrants with two or four $8.00 valves.


RR8S chassis leaning on air bags after shutdown
Nevada Rob

I have been systematically replacing the cheap slip fittings with DOT heavy duty truck compression threaded fittings. So far I have located 16 air leaks on the coach. I have final reached a point where the bags never drop. Air is still leaking from the tanks slowly somewhere. I know my air dryer leaks and that WABCO will be replaced with a much better unit made by Bendix. Air leaks are a almost never ending issue.  


ScanGaugeD vs Stock Temp Gauge
Ivan K

The only calibration I found on scangauge is the MPH if the ECM was programmed for different tire size. I doubt that anyone would change gear ratio so that is the only variable. Everything else is whatever the sensors read and ECM sends on the link to scangauge.


Dometic roof A/C: compressor, no fan
Jim McGarvie
12 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Jim,

Here is a link to your specific AC, its installation and wiring diagrams. Possibly this may help you.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/799601/Dometic-57908-321.html#product-600315.321

I along with others are somewhat confused as to how your thermostat is wired seeing that normally these AC's are controlled with a 5 Button Thermostat.

Maybe a photo or two would help clear up the confusion.

Thanks for the link, Richard. That should be helpful.

I can't speak for "normally", but I can tell you unequivocally that when we picked up this 2002 coach at the Monaco factory in August of 2001, it had a thermostat with no buttons whatsoever. I threw it away when it died a couple of years ago so I can't send a picture of it, but I have attached one of the bedroom A/C thermostat. The original front thermostat was identical but for a switch for heat for the furnace. Nary a button in sight.

old thermostat.jpg

12 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

I along with others are somewhat confused as to how your thermostat is wired seeing that normally these AC's are controlled with a 5 Button Thermostat.

Maybe a photo or two would help clear up the confusion.

For those of you who have asked how I wired this thermostat, I have attached a diagram I found somewhere online. I think it is pretty clear, and worked fine. The only way in which I varied from this is I did not add a switch for hi fan. I just wired it to always use hi fan.

Honeywell-wiring-diagram.jpg


RR8S chassis leaning on air bags after shutdown
ok-rver

I run my coach up on 3 levels of 2x's to give me an extra 4.5" of height. With the air bags deflated. I have room under all but the hydraulic only leveling jacks.  I don't get under the jacks.

Wondering were you extend you jack stands up to to support the coach. Jack stands would have to be close to 2 foot tall to reach the frame. The steel supports for the trailing arms might carry the weight of the coach but standard jacks would not go under them.

In looking for leaks, I have tested with soap multiple times the following:

air fitting to hose and threaded fitting into top of air bag x 2 bags,

2 Tees screwed into a bulkhead fitting, hose coming from valve, hoses to front bag and rear bag, hose to dump solenoid. Tees swivel on their base and do not leak at the swivel. no leaks on threads screwed into bulkhead fitting.

dump solenoid fitting not leaking and not leaking thru the valve to exhaust port.

Passenger side does not loose air. only driver side. I am beginning to believe that the air may be leaking backwards thru the leveling valve as the tanks loose air pressure. My next test will be to drain air pressure in the tank immediately after shutting off the engine to see if the coach tilts as the pressure goes down. That might indicate the backwards flow thru the valve if it lowers. I had been assuming that the leak was in the bag air system. It may be from the supply/tank with back flow. 

 

Gary, I have thought about installing temporary valves to isolate into sections with a pressure gage to tell if leaking.

Rob, are you getting the better quality fittings online or local?

I found the leveling valve at $150. Asked the company if they had a repair kit.

 


Slide Sealant Caulking
Oregon04Windsor

Looks like urethane sealant


Slide Sealant Caulking
Gary M

There is a plastic catch basin in each corner that is supposed to catch any water that gets past the side seal and drain to the outside. Also the bottom slide seal should be glued at an angle inwards so that it doesn’t block that catch basin.

The sealant proflex comes in clear, white and black which I have used all three colors on my coach.


Speedometer reading incorrectly.
Oregon04Windsor

Thank you for that info!

 


Bike rack on DP
Rikadoo

Great information, thank you everyone👍


Oil, water vapor separator?
Rikadoo

My rig is a 2003 Holiday Rambler, the one i removed was one mfg &#, the one i purchased was supposed to be the replacement, my owner manual gave a different PN

Power steering filter:

Removed filter Nelson 84365

Installed filter, Baldwin PT 903

Recommended in owners manual: Nelson 83213D or 910048A


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