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Interior puck lights


daveyjo
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Sorry if this is a duplicate.  I tried to edit my pics and everything disappeared.

A few weeks ago I was reading a discussion, maybe of this forum or maybe elsewhere, about replacing the 3.25" puck lights mounted to the underside of their cabinets with LED lights (see pictures).  Then, as sometimes happens with computers, the discussion closed before I could establish what LED lights were good or not so good for this application, and I couldn't find the discussion again.  Someone had posted that the non-dimmable versions would still dim about 50%.  I'd love to get a discussion going about the current 12 volt heat generating lights and what to replace them with.

Dave Jones

2005 HR Scepter

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Replacing my halogen bulbs with led bulbs from Cabin Bright. Talk to Joe about what u may need.

 

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I got similar lights from ebay a couple of years ago super cheap it to try. They were at only couple of dimes each so I took a chance. Anyway, they work fine with the dimmer, with only hardly noticeable flicker at the lowest setting which we don't use anyway.

My point is, you will likely have to shorten the legs and remove the plastic spacer to get them centered. They are not easy to insert and you will likely break some of the pins from the board. Account for it. This is why I only replaced the ones we use most... here and there I replace some more but it is a PITA. Maybe I try to file the shortened pins a little next time, just not exited about it. To help with not breaking the legs, I put a drop of epoxy over the connections and it helps some.

 

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1 hour ago, Ivan K said:

I got similar lights from ebay a couple of years ago super cheap it to try. They were at only couple of dimes each so I took a chance. Anyway, they work fine with the dimmer, with only hardly noticeable flicker at the lowest setting which we don't use anyway.

My point is, you will likely have to shorten the legs and remove the plastic spacer to get them centered. They are not easy to insert and you will likely break some of the pins from the board. Account for it. This is why I only replaced the ones we use most... here and there I replace some more but it is a PITA. Maybe I try to file the shortened pins a little next time, just not exited about it. To help with not breaking the legs, I put a drop of epoxy over the connections and it helps some.

 

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I also bought off Ebay but they only lasted a few months before they started flickering one by one.

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I did all of ours about 7 years ago. There are probably better choices for the LED lamps now. I choose to remove all the metal reflectors that were used with the Halogen bulbs and held the LED bulbs in place with poster putty. Have not had problem in 7 years.

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40 minutes ago, allphase8 said:

I can offer these to you.

You can contact me at 541 944 3955

Or visit our web site lowcostrvlighting.com

Ron

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Tried locating your website several times with no luck.

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I replaced my puck lights with these:
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Before I went with those, I used replacements similar to many of those shown here.  I like these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VWS7J6W/ much better.  At $5 apiece, they won't break the bank and put out a much nicer light than the puck lights ever hoped to while not putting out anywhere near as much heat.  I had to reuse the screws from the puck lights.  I understand many new RV are now using these lights.  Each one has an ON/OFF button in the center of the cover.

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Last month I decided to replace the overhead flourescent lights in the coach. I never cared for the way the lights were wired. It seemed that the lights up front had more voltage while the overhead galley light struggled. I found these under cabinet LED lights on Amazon that had a remote and were dimmable. The lights were offered in different versions, daylight and warm white.  The wiring in the kit allowed me to connect them all together and operate them from a single remote. Originally I thought I could run the wiring inside the ceiling from light to light, but was unable due to obstructions. I wound up using the a/c ducting as a conduit to run the wiring from fixture to fixture. I used 1/4 inch birch for the base and trim was from Home Depot. Sherwin Williams matched the stain on my cabinets to the wood I was using and they did a great job.  The result is a much more pleasant lighting with plenty of illumination and 10 levels of brightness.

 

Bob K

06 Monaco Knight 

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35 minutes ago, cbtman2 said:

Last month I decided to replace the overhead flourescent lights in the coach. I never cared for the way the lights were wired. It seemed that the lights up front had more voltage while the overhead galley light struggled. I found these under cabinet LED lights on Amazon that had a remote and were dimmable. The lights were offered in different versions, daylight and warm white.  The wiring in the kit allowed me to connect them all together and operate them from a single remote. Originally I thought I could run the wiring inside the ceiling from light to light, but was unable due to obstructions. I wound up using the a/c ducting as a conduit to run the wiring from fixture to fixture. I used 1/4 inch birch for the base and trim was from Home Depot. Sherwin Williams matched the stain on my cabinets to the wood I was using and they did a great job.  The result is a much more pleasant lighting with plenty of illumination and 10 levels of brightness.

 

Bob K

06 Monaco Knight 

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Nice job!!!

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Guest Cruzbill

Ron, You show a 12 LED wafer installed in what looks like the same reflector-type puck fixture I have in my '05 Beaver. I have not yet found a wafer style G-4 bulb that will fit, unless I remove the reflector and install the light. In your photo, can you fit the glass and trim onto the fixture, or does the wafer get in the way? I can see the wafer is angled down, like the back of the wafer is hitting the reflector.  

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Mine are from Cabinbright. The fit my 4” and 3” pucks. 

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