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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/546-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Stands
dl_racing427
Fuel tank leak
dl_racing427
Confussion, a place to start......
dl_racing427
Fuel tank leak
Ivylog
Why in the hell.....I mean heck
joefromperry
Why in the hell.....I mean heck
Brett63
Why in the hell.....I mean heck
joefromperry
Why in the hell.....I mean heck
Ray Davis
Fuel tank leak
Paul A.
Confussion, a place to start......
Nevada Rob
Broken kitchen sink drain
Gary Petersen
Broken kitchen sink drain
Dr4Film
Broken kitchen sink drain
joefromperry
Confussion, a place to start......
waterskier_1
Broken kitchen sink drain
Gary Petersen
Broken kitchen sink drain
Romeo84
Broken kitchen sink drain
Gary Petersen
Broken kitchen sink drain
vito.a
Broken kitchen sink drain
Ivan K
Broken kitchen sink drain
jacwjames
Broken kitchen sink drain
Bob Jones
Broken kitchen sink drain
Gary 05 AMB DST
Old inverter circuits-rewiring
JDCrow
Broken kitchen sink drain
Paul Busch
Old inverter circuits-rewiring
waterskier_1
Old inverter circuits-rewiring
JDCrow
Old inverter circuits-rewiring
waterskier_1
Stands
wamcneil
Old inverter circuits-rewiring
JDCrow
Why in the hell.....I mean heck
Chargerman
Aqua Hot
wayne.cerven@gmail.com
Aqua Hot
Ivan K
Aqua Hot
wayne.cerven@gmail.com
Aqua Hot
Ivan K
Aqua Hot
wayne.cerven@gmail.com
Aqua Hot
Ivan K

New Posts

Confussion, a place to start......
FishAR

That seems like a lot of juice to run a refrigerator. My Monaco is sitting in my driveway getting ready for florida and all I have up here is a 30 amp service. It shows I'm pulling 19 amps running one ac and the 1402 fridge on electric, along with a few lights and a tv on.


Stands
dl_racing427
18 hours ago, saflyer said:

I checked out 6 and 12 ton stands online. They extend to 24”. I think they should be placed under the raised rails either in front of the rear axle or behind the front wheels or both. Am I right? If so first that’s a real stretch subjecting me to being under the coach while I’m doing it, negating their safety benefit. Second, it looks like the raised rails sit more than 24” above the ground when the coach is at ride height so the jacks wouldn’t be much help. I haven’t actually measured it because of the above safety concern. Thoughts?

Look for a sturdy vertical member running up to the main frame rail.  Usually the suspension pickup points will be on these, and they're low enough to put the stands underneath.

I place my both my front and rear stands behind the axles, to more evenly distribute the load front to rear.


Fuel tank leak
dl_racing427

The problem with the epoxy stuff is it doesn't stop the crack from propagating.

It might work better if you drill a small hole at the end of the crack to relieve the stress riser.
This should be done whether epoxying or welding.


Confussion, a place to start......
dl_racing427
20 minutes ago, FishAR said:

That seems like a lot of juice to run a refrigerator. My Monaco is sitting in my driveway getting ready for florida and all I have up here is a 30 amp service. It shows I'm pulling 19 amps running one ac and the 1402 fridge on electric, along with a few lights and a tv on.

You're referring to amps at 120v.  I think the OP was referring to amp draw from the batteries, which is at 12v.
1a at 120v is 120watts, while it takes 10 amps at 12v to equal the same power, not including losses in the inverter and wiring.


Confussion, a place to start......
Ivylog

Starting at 12.4 (assuming the meter is accurate) is on the low side…I would check the voltage on either side of the BigBoy when hooked to shore power with it hot to the touch/engaged…voltage should be the same. Cleaning the BigBoy’s contacts isn’t that hard.

Unfortunately you cannot equalize AGMs…how old are the 8Ds? You should be able to go 24+ hours (before needing to recharge) with that many AH even with the AquaHot running.

The refer is using 10A and TVs and other electronics (even if off) can draw another 4-5A so 18 is unfortunately normal.

I had almost 1.0V difference between battery voltages and meter (meter is accurate) when drawing 100+ amps (0.4 V at 25amps). By tightening every connection I could find and cleaning the ones at the batteries I cut those reading in half. Changed my cut off voltage to 11.8 because it would jump up to 12.2 without the load.


Fuel tank leak
Ivylog

If you are in a rural area…farming, I would find a repair shop and see if they would weld on it in place assuming you can get a rod to the crack. After leaning the coach so no diesel is on that side and gassing it like Ken suggested, I would weld on it in place.


Why in the hell.....I mean heck
joefromperry

on my 2003 Signature, I almost exclusively use the keypad to lock/unlock everything. If there is a lock/unlock feature in the back bedroom, I have no idea where it would be. Those that have the rear lock/unlock, where is it on your coach, please?

 


Low Beam Headlight Issue with Overheated J12 Connector on SmartWheel Controller
Mike Wahl

During our recent 10 day trip we lost our low beam headlights.  After searching on the site found this to be a common problem and several good ideas on how to fix the issue.  I have parts coming to fix the Controller.

image.png.99ae24f1663eb417759d4803661bf845.png

I had ordered but didn't get a chance before the trip to install new LED headlights.  Last week I did get them installed.  This is a great improvement.  I will put together an upgrade post when I get a chance.  One of the last things I want to do is add the relay as others have discussed doing on here.  I have attached the original wiring diagram and the wiring diagram I have updated. 

What I'm wondering is , I was planning on pulling my power off of the mini-breaker which is where the original headlight power comes from and my signal wire (original headlight circuit) will come from and not adding a fuse.  Is the the correct was to do this or should I come off of the buss bar side for my headlight power and add a fuse.  I'm a novice when it comes to electrical circuitry and want to do it right.

Original Diagram

image.thumb.png.7e34f7f8d933f6333916322fbf99a195.png

Update Diagram With Changes in Yellow

image.thumb.png.c6aa0576c7664452404b17b7d6462e50.png

 

 


2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
Rikadoo

Mornin JD , say so far your re-organizing your battery bank is looking top notch, if i am able to make a suggestion… put a rubber mat underneath your two engine batteries, it will insulate, an prevent any electrolisis that could occure.

Also i know your house battery states 200 ahs however, with regaurd to available surge current, is going to be able to crank over your generator enough to start it. The reason i ask is mearly due to lack of information regaurding these new types of batteries. Keep up the great work😎


Why in the hell.....I mean heck
Brett63
48 minutes ago, joefromperry said:

on my 2003 Signature, I almost exclusively use the keypad to lock/unlock everything. If there is a lock/unlock feature in the back bedroom, I have no idea where it would be. Those that have the rear lock/unlock, where is it on your coach, please?

 

on my 09 it is with the other buttons next to the bed, lights, gen start/stop, doors lock/unlock....etc


Why in the hell.....I mean heck
joefromperry

Thanks. I don't have that switch.

 


Why in the hell.....I mean heck
Ray Davis

Not a bad idea to have a switch just inside the entry door to unlock or lock the bay doors.   Probably wouldn't be terribly complicated to put it together.                      Some configuration using an up & down momentary switch or even 2 switches might work,  one to open one to lock.  I mostly use my one key fob.

I can't imagine wanting a sw outside though, unless you could hide it yet still have it accessible,  in the engine compartment would work for me,  since I don't lock my engine compartment anyway.  


Fuel tank leak
Paul A.
On 9/12/2021 at 5:29 PM, Dennis Y said:

I discovered that my fuel tank is leaking.  The leak is cracked at the toe of the weld attaching one of the angle iron mounting tabs.  I am thinking about removing the tank to have it welded.  Has anyone done this?  Is there anything I should know?  How much does it weigh, can two people man-handle a mostly empty tank out of the drivers side? 

Dennis Yeats

2004 HR Ambassador

Here is a site that you can go to, to calculate the approximate weight of the tank.https://www.chapelsteel.com/weight-steel-plate.html  Many fuel tanks where/are weld repaired in the Military.  Also construction equipment repair Co.'s do it all the time.  Ask around at TRUCK repair shops.  I would not patch it. 


Confussion, a place to start......
Nevada Rob

On our 2008 Dynasty with the original Sharp TV is the big power user. Our refer draws 7 amps on the high side when active cooling. Add in just the TV and it jumps up to 28+/- amps. I 100% agree with the others about making sure your connection are all very clean and secure. LifeLine batteries has a great write up on equalizing your batteries including AGM batteries. Why they get sulfate and what to do ti try and recover your batteries.


Confussion, a place to start......
vito.a

I'd start by checking and cleaning all battery cables and terminals.  Then check (or replace) the Intellitec Big Boy battery isolation solenoid (this is more than likely the issue).  

If that doesn't fix it then start checking each 8D battery individually.  

Just a note from my experience, I've never had good luck with 8D batteries of any kind including Lifelines.  

When you do replace them, I would go with two 6V deep cycles in place of each 8D.  Or take the leap to LiFePo4 batteries.  


Broken kitchen sink drain
Gary Petersen

My problem is with the kitchen sink drain in our 2002' Signature Centurion which has the drivers side kitchen slide-out. We started getting  sink water running across the floor whenever we drained the kitchen sink. I thought at first, this sounds like a reasonably easy plumbing issue to fix. Wow, was I wrong.

I located the white colored, and stiffly corrugated 1 1/2" PVC Flexible drain pipe. I found that due to the lack of cabinet space, I could see that the pipe had been abruptly kinked to 90 degrees against the inside wall of the cabinet, specifically when the sink is in the "slide-in" position. Question: Could this possibly be Monaco's original design? Or did I find some after market repair? 

This sharp 90 degree kinking occurs just after the transition from ABS to the flexible drain. It must have happened so many times that it fractured the flexible corrugated  pipe. (photo below)

This design requires that the drain pipe be flexible so as to maintain the the integrity of the drain while constantly flexing as it maintains the 180 degree turn as the "slide-out" travel makes the pipe move several inches.

I cut out the "kink" and tried to reconnect the piping using a Fernco fitting with double hose clamps but the drain pipe pulls out of the Fernco when the Slide is sent out.

Is this the original plumbing system and has anyone else had to deal with this? I am north of Seattle; can anyone suggest a shop that may be  familiar with this Monaco system? 

Thanks, Gary

 

 

IMG_6322.thumb.jpg.e9bc09fe941995a8d6dcb26891f4a87f.jpgIMG_6321.thumb.jpg.7abf3477a975c86634dc7f6d7b34fe1f.jpgIMG_6390.thumb.jpg.6e2b95793a3505b9daf4608ff2b24c17.jpg 

 


Low Beam Headlight Issue with Overheated J12 Connector on SmartWheel Controller
Mike H

I had the same issue while I was out in Carlsbad, NM and had to drive back to Florida without any of my Smart Wheel functions.  I ended up having to replace the VIP SmartWheel Controller and in the process I ordered this connector upgrade.  It uses 10ga wiring instead of the original 12 ga and all I had to do was cut and splice it in.  This solved the over heating problem with the daytime running lights constantly being on and overloading that cable assy.  It's a little pricey but worth not getting the PC board in the controller melted.

20190910_202329.jpg

20191114_091116.jpg

Cut redlines_01.jpg

VIP SM209 Smartwheel cable.jpg


Confussion, a place to start......
cbr046

If money were no object I'd look at a lithium battery solution, but then, because they charge differently and can draw much more current charging you're looking at upgrading the charging system also, maybe even a new alternator (or limit the draw).  It's definitely a rabbit hole but the end results are long periods on battery power. 

Now, if you're just going from powered site to powered site, probably just go with making sure your batteries are up to snuff, connections tight, etc. 

That residential fridge is a power monster on batteries.

My 2c,

- bob


Great Price for Blue Seas ML-ACR System with Manual Control
Dr4Film

I just ordered a Blue Seas ML-ACR with manual Control from Amazon which currently has it for $140. They have been running in the $170 range.

If you been on the fence or just procrastinating like I have, now is the time to pick one up.

https://tinyurl.com/2725yaec


Broken kitchen sink drain
Dr4Film

Gary,

I would make an appointment at Elite RV Repair in Harrisburg Oregon. They are ex-Monaco techs and do a great job.

https://eliternr.com/


Broken kitchen sink drain
joefromperry

That is the worst design. I have the same thing on my 2003 signature kitchen slide, only it's on the passenger slide. Mine didn't kink like yours, but the flexible pipe pulled away from the solid pipe, and the clamps that held the kitchen drain pipe to the wall pulled away, causing lots of extra movement.  It's not too difficult to fix yourself.

I have a slider / pulley type system that rolls with the flexible pipe when slide is pulled in and out. Is yours the same? 


Confussion, a place to start......
waterskier_1

I'm going to make some assumptions, and you can supply additional information if they are incorrect.  First, it appears you were traveling, i.e., driving the coach before you stopped for dinner.  If so,  the engine alternator should have been charging both the chassis and house batteries.  Your 12.4 Volts is 60% or so charge.  It should have been close to 12.9 after being charged, assuming you drove for a few hours.  This indicates that the house batteries are not being charged properly.  That can be due to a faulty alternator, but more likely the isolator circuit.  I think you have a BIRD system, and if so, I'd look to the Big Boy or equivalent relay (solenoid).  These are prone to getting high resistance on the contacts.  When the engine is running, check the voltage on both sides of the relay. They should be within 0.1 Volts.  Another possibility is bad batteries.  Your four 8D batteries have a rating of 230 A-Hr each of a total of 920 A-Hrs.  Drawing 20 Amps would take 46 hours to delete - really 23 hours since it is recommended to never run the batteries below 50% charge.  Even starting at 12.4 Volts,  you should have had over 13 hours before the batteries got to 50% discharged.  That fact that you say you could watch the voltage (assuming you were not watching for hours) go down suggests weak batteries. 

I would being by charging the house batteries fully, and running a load lest.  I think Trojan has a procedure for that on their website.  This will tell you how good the batteries are.  The second thing I would do is check the voltage on each side of the isolator relay with the engine running to see if that might be the cause of your house batteries not being fully charged.  There are many more tests and possibilities, but this is where I'd start, and using those results to direct further troubleshooting, if necessary. 


Great Price for Blue Seas ML-ACR System with Manual Control
Hancoman

Mine is being delivered today. I paid 140. Stay tuned I am sure I will have questions


2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
JDCrow
3 hours ago, Rikadoo said:

Mornin JD , say so far your re-organizing your battery bank is looking top notch, if i am able to make a suggestion… put a rubber mat underneath your two engine batteries, it will insulate, an prevent any electrolisis that could occure.

Also i know your house battery states 200 ahs however, with regaurd to available surge current, is going to be able to crank over your generator enough to start it. The reason i ask is mearly due to lack of information regaurding these new types of batteries. Keep up the great work😎

You are awesome! Thanks for looking out for me. I haven’t started to sort that “side” (house) batteries. 
 

I’m rerouting the Gen lead to the chassis side as we speak, well and pull carflex while I have my buddy here 


Great Price for Blue Seas ML-ACR System with Manual Control
Jim Byrd

Blue Sea products are the way to go, great products, great service and support.


Broken kitchen sink drain
Gary Petersen

Joe,

It is comforting to know that one is not alone with this problematic  system.

I do not see any pulley type system which would roll, or assist the movement of the  flexible pipe in my system. 

Do you recall if your hose system had a "Glued" 45 degree PVC fitting as shown in my photo?

Any advice as to what you did to solve your problem?   My Furnco connector did not work.

Were you able to use the existing pipe or did you have to replace the existing pipe with something new? 

Thanks,


Broken kitchen sink drain
Romeo84

Has no one pointed out the artwork on the graph paper! Like I know this doesn't aid to your fix and I apologize but he took the time to draw it out on graph paper!!! High five bud!

 


Broken kitchen sink drain
Gary Petersen

Richard,

I appreciate the tip; If I can't figure out a permanent fix in the next few days, I will give Elite a call.

Thanks,


Broken kitchen sink drain
vito.a

Harry posted a great how to thread on replacing the flexible drain hose. Several of us have had to replace it.
There should be a trolley that carries the hose when the slide goes in/out.

I used industrial reinforced blue PVC tubing I found at American Hose and Rubber Co.
The hose ID is 1 1/2". The steel barb fitting is a Dixon ST20.
However, I was not able to use the long steel hose barb on the top because it interferes with the door that covers that section of the cabinet. I ended up using the short nylon hose barb from Home Depot.  This short hose barb really helped stop the kinking with the slide in.  
The hose is part number BW150X100 108HO PVC S&D. Four feet.
Post # 79 (lots of pictures in this thread)
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/kit...-383127-6.html


Broken kitchen sink drain
Ivan K

To me it looks like someone's quick fix. In my case the flexible piece at the bottom was longer towards the sink and no 45 degree elbow is involved. Because of our floor plan, my access was through bathroom cabinet below bathroom sink but same principle. 


Broken kitchen sink drain
jacwjames

Here is a parts breakdown of my kitchen slide plumbing, which provide a good visual and shows the trolley that aids it the extend/retract function.  The trolley is nothing more then a pocket door hardware kit, with comes with the track, two of the roller systems, and attaching hardware.   My guess is someone just decided to free style it. 

There have numerous posts on IRV2 on this and some seem to have found a better hose. 

1 Kitchen slideout plumbing.pdf


2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
JDCrow

Having fun now!

3A4481C6-A6D4-4E5D-A835-8015C92AEFF5.jpeg

1DC5D4E4-7BDC-48C1-9C55-265D9831672A.jpeg


Broken kitchen sink drain
Bob Jones

It's a common issue. Mine broke with the same kink as you had. That aluminum rail in your pic should be the trolley. You can redesign it so that it moves better without much hassle. I did a fair bit of rearranging when I did mine and when done the slide operated much better so it was binding in a number of areas. By the looks of it you have easy access...


Broken kitchen sink drain
Gary 05 AMB DST

Gary, I think the problem is the 45 elbow. It is changing the parallel movement of the hose.

Gary 05 AMB DST


Old inverter circuits-rewiring
JDCrow

Replacing our inverter, you can follow along in the mod section.

Question is on the feeds coming out of the old Xantrex. 
 

The coach manual states that one feed for microwave, and one is gfci. 
 

I was able to distinguish the two feeds, and was able to pull up the wire for the Microwave and can give it its own breaker in the panel. 
 

The other feed goes to the GFCI in the bathroom, and out from there, here’s my question, not having the coach long to test this  all out before 

 

Did these 2 circuits (feeds, loads) only come from the inverter? That is without the inverter breaker on, they have no way of getting electricity? 
 

I ask because I will have to feed down another piece of romex in conduit and a junction box in the bay where the old inverter was. 

 

4E744EBA-9FA7-4FCC-BA79-A69CD5A58A45.jpeg

F585EC0A-243B-4117-9AA2-AB071EFE872F.jpeg


Broken kitchen sink drain
Paul Busch

I repaired mine with the heavy PVC glue fitting and SPA hose from Ace Hardware. Standard PVC fittings and glue work on the flexible PVC hose.

paul


Old inverter circuits-rewiring
waterskier_1

I'll try and help, but I'm not sure what exactly you are doing.  First, background on how Monaco installed the inverters.  From the early 2000's Monaco used an internal to the inverter transfer switch.  Don't confuse this with the main transfer switch that operates between the Generator and Shore Power.  Any AC circuits that will be powered by the inverter must pass through the inverter.  So, you likely have a 30 Amp Breaker in the Main Power Panel Labeled for Inverter.  This is the power to the inverter.  It is the power that will run the battery charger when shore (or Gen) power is available, and the power that will be supported by the inverter.  This is typically a microwave oven and outlets.  In higher end coaches, (Dynasty and above for sure - don't know about Camelot's and Windsor's) the inverter output goes to an Inverter Sub-Panel with breakers for multiple circuits.   From you description, you do not have that sub-panel.  In your case, you have one output going to the microwave, and another going to outlets.  The outlet string first goes to a GFCI outlet, usually in the bathroom.  When you have shore power, the power going into the inverter is routed to the output of the inverter, in a "pass-thru" mode.  When you loose shore power (or gen power), the inverter senses that, and automatically switches the output of the inverter from shore power to the inverter power generated from the battery.  If the circuits to be supplied by the inverter didn't run through the inverter, there would be no way to connect them to the inverter when shore power was lost.  

Now, on to your questions. You say you identified the microwave circuit (wires) and and can give it its own breaker in the panel?  What panel?  The main power panel?  If you pulled it away from the inverter, there is no longer a way for the inverter to power the microwave.  Is this your intention?  You can do it, but you can no longer run the microwave off the inverter.  Maybe I don't understand.  Yes, the other feed goes to the GFCI in the bathroom, and then out to the other outlets that run off the inverter.

I think I covered the question, but to be sure, yes, those two feeds only come from the inverter, but there is also a feed from the main power panel into the inverter that powers those circuits when on shore (gen) power.  You ask "without the inverter breaker on..."  do you mean the circuit breaker (30 Amps) in the Main Power Panel labeled "Inverter"?  If you do, then yes, you still will get electricity, IF the inverter switch is turned on.  The inverter will sense no Shore Power, and automatically switch to inverter mode supplying inverter power from the batteries. 

It would be helpful to know exactly what you are trying to accomplish by rewiring the inverter.  Are you simply trying to replace the old, bad, inverter?  Or, are you trying to do an update to a more powerful inverter?  The later is more involved than many realize.  Often the supply circuit wires from the Power Panel has to be increased to power the new "stuff" you will be connecting to the larger inverter.  In my case I have a 50 Amp circuit and wiring going to my 3000 PSW inverter.  Then you will likely need a sub-panel to connect the additional circuits that the larger inverter will be powering since they were wired for less power.  

If you let me know why you are doing this, and what you hope to achieve, I would be better able to advise you.


Old inverter circuits-rewiring
JDCrow
4 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:

I'll try and help, but I'm not sure what exactly you are doing.  First, background on how Monaco installed the inverters.  From the early 2000's Monaco used an internal to the inverter transfer switch.  Don't confuse this with the main transfer switch that operates between the Generator and Shore Power.  Any AC circuits that will be powered by the inverter must pass through the inverter.  So, you likely have a 30 Amp Breaker in the Main Power Panel Labeled for Inverter.  This is the power to the inverter.  It is the power that will run the battery charger when shore (or Gen) power is available, and the power that will be supported by the inverter.  This is typically a microwave oven and outlets.  In higher end coaches, (Dynasty and above for sure - don't know about Camelot's and Windsor's) the inverter output goes to an Inverter Sub-Panel with breakers for multiple circuits.   From you description, you do not have that sub-panel.  In your case, you have one output going to the microwave, and another going to outlets.  The outlet string first goes to a GFCI outlet, usually in the bathroom.  When you have shore power, the power going into the inverter is routed to the output of the inverter, in a "pass-thru" mode.  When you loose shore power (or gen power), the inverter senses that, and automatically switches the output of the inverter from shore power to the inverter power generated from the battery.  If the circuits to be supplied by the inverter didn't run through the inverter, there would be no way to connect them to the inverter when shore power was lost.  

Now, on to your questions. You say you identified the microwave circuit (wires) and and can give it its own breaker in the panel?  What panel?  The main power panel?  If you pulled it away from the inverter, there is no longer a way for the inverter to power the microwave.  Is this your intention?  You can do it, but you can no longer run the microwave off the inverter.  Maybe I don't understand.  Yes, the other feed goes to the GFCI in the bathroom, and then out to the other outlets that run off the inverter.

I think I covered the question, but to be sure, yes, those two feeds only come from the inverter, but there is also a feed from the main power panel into the inverter that powers those circuits when on shore (gen) power.  You ask "without the inverter breaker on..."  do you mean the circuit breaker (30 Amps) in the Main Power Panel labeled "Inverter"?  If you do, then yes, you still will get electricity, IF the inverter switch is turned on.  The inverter will sense no Shore Power, and automatically switch to inverter mode supplying inverter power from the batteries. 

It would be helpful to know exactly what you are trying to accomplish by rewiring the inverter.  Are you simply trying to replace the old, bad, inverter?  Or, are you trying to do an update to a more powerful inverter?  The later is more involved than many realize.  Often the supply circuit wires from the Power Panel has to be increased to power the new "stuff" you will be connecting to the larger inverter.  In my case I have a 50 Amp circuit and wiring going to my 3000 PSW inverter.  Then you will likely need a sub-panel to connect the additional circuits that the larger inverter will be powering since they were wired for less power.  

If you let me know why you are doing this, and what you hope to achieve, I would be better able to advise you.

Thanks very much, you hit it out of the park.

Sorry it’s brief here on this thread. I didn’t want to rehash and bore people with my remodel. 
 

Yes I’m upgrading the inverter. I’m running the power into the new inverter, then up to the panel. The microwave wire (romex) I was able to pull up and will put in a dedicated breaker for it, replacing the inverter breaker. 
 

The other run, the GFIC I will put in a breaker for and fish romex back down to it and have a junction box in the old location as seen in the pic. 
 Here is a few quick pics of the work.

And thanks very much for hour help 

6E14B256-DA4B-4123-8E5D-EF4B0C7B6B8F.jpeg

4BD3C726-2CC3-4054-9C88-2F8BB122E6DD.jpeg

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F3B836A7-E388-46E0-A48D-A3CA2B43BE6C.jpeg


LED Conversion of Fluorescent Tubes - READ CAREFULLY... NOT as SIMPLE or CHEAPER??....
just_john1

I replaced all of my fluorescents with LEDs Did the whole bus for the cost of 2 sets of bulbs. Much brighter. Tried the strip lights and found them lacking. Then I tried the auto park lights.  They were so bright I used the switch on the fixture to turn on and off half of the LEDs, for atmosphere. All you have to do is eliminate the ballast.

 

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4PCS 12V LED STRIP DRL DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS FOG COB CAR LAMP DRIVING WHITE US _ eBay.html


Old inverter circuits-rewiring
waterskier_1

I think you are saying you removed the (or will remove) the Inverter Circuit Breaker and replace it with the Microwave Circuit Breaker.  I don't think it's that simple.  If you remove the Inverter Circuit Breaker, how will you get power from the breaker panel to the inverter - it must be protected by a circuit breaker.  If you are removing the Inverter CB to make room, they have 1/2 size breaker made just for that.  Do you intend to run the microwave only on shore (gen) power?  It is against all codes to have two different sources of AC inside the same power panel (i.e., Shore power and Inverter power).  Someone could kill the incoming shore power breaker and think the box is unpowered, only to find that the inverter powered up and there are other hot breakers in the box and electrocute him.

I'm sorry, but I'm not sure what you are referring to in the pic.  

If I'm understanding you correctly, you should leave the Inverter CB in place, use the wire from it to the new inverter, and then, the output of the inverter should then go to a smaller sub-panel with just a few (maybe only 2, one for the microwave and another for the GFCI outlets) Circuit Breakers.  This second, smaller sub-panel when wired as described is often call an "inveter sub-panel" since only inverter circuits are contained within it.


Stands
wamcneil

For SAFETY, I throw some 2ft sections of railroad tie under the motorhome, just enough so I know it won’t crush me. 
cheers

Walter


HWH X-Slide Hydraulic Mechanism Maintenance
Hypoxia

HWH says no lubrication needed on the X-Slide mechanism.  Does anyone have experience with any maintenance they think is needed while I have access to them.  I'm big on preventative maintenance.  The chain looks good with a cursory inspection.


Old inverter circuits-rewiring
JDCrow
1 hour ago, waterskier_1 said:

I think you are saying you removed the (or will remove) the Inverter Circuit Breaker and replace it with the Microwave Circuit Breaker.  I don't think it's that simple.  If you remove the Inverter Circuit Breaker, how will you get power from the breaker panel to the inverter - it must be protected by a circuit breaker.  If you are removing the Inverter CB to make room, they have 1/2 size breaker made just for that.  Do you intend to run the microwave only on shore (gen) power?  It is against all codes to have two different sources of AC inside the same power panel (i.e., Shore power and Inverter power).  Someone could kill the incoming shore power breaker and think the box is unpowered, only to find that the inverter powered up and there are other hot breakers in the box and electrocute him.

I'm sorry, but I'm not sure what you are referring to in the pic.  

If I'm understanding you correctly, you should leave the Inverter CB in place, use the wire from it to the new inverter, and then, the output of the inverter should then go to a smaller sub-panel with just a few (maybe only 2, one for the microwave and another for the GFCI outlets) Circuit Breakers.  This second, smaller sub-panel when wired as described is often call an "inveter sub-panel" since only inverter circuits are contained within it.

Sorry to be confusing, trying to not repost a bunch. 
 

New inverter. I removed shore power from panel, ran it to new inverter. Running power back to panel. New inverter is Multiplus 2. It is pass through when on shore/Gen. 
 

Can boost 15/20/30 amp input with battery boost to run heavier loads. 
 

Here is a diagram of what I’m shooting for. No solar yet 

 

 

C9F7CAA9-2D53-495D-98CA-7646A19766D4.png


Why in the hell.....I mean heck
Chargerman

Been thinking about this a bit and even though I was on board to add this switch I think that it wouldn’t be good to do unless I could separate the door lock. Currently my system/ key fob locks the entry door and bays at the same time and I would be afraid of locking myself out of the Coach if I reached in the door and hit the switch and closed the door. Would love to be able to unlock the bays though


Aqua Hot
wayne.cerven@gmail.com

Any ideas will be most welcomed! Aqua hot serviced,filter, nozzle.lots of fuel, lots of battery/shore power. Changed fuel solenoid because it had cracked after 20 years,changed the motor after 20 years,worked 4 or 5 times with furnace on,6th time started to blow ignition and fuse, took it apart noticed coil wires all dry and brittle, one cap broken off coil so thought I had it figured out, put brand new could wires hole works in and thought we had it, fired it up lots of black smoke and I know what you may be thinking but it has only ran 6 times since new filter and nozzle, turned it off, turn it on again and it fired, black smoke again then it quit, check ignition fuse and it was blown, put another in and it blew again, I have isolated the wiring harness from the Aqua hot and it is all good, hot wired fan motor all good, no cracks,no leaks.

Any idea?

Thanks 

Wayne 

1999 Signature Caesar 


Aqua Hot
Ivan K

Still the same ignition coil? It should fire continuously if power applied to the primary coil wires. I had to replace ours last spring.


Aqua Hot
wayne.cerven@gmail.com
3 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Still the same ignition coil? It should fire continuously if power applied to the primary coil wires. I had to replace ours last spring.

Brand new electronic ignition unit,blowing the 15amp fuse (ignition) driving me crazy already


Aqua Hot
Ivan K

Could the coil connectors inside motor housing be reversed? I never tried to see the behavior if they were... 


Aqua Hot
wayne.cerven@gmail.com
11 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Could the coil connectors inside motor housing be reversed? I never tried to see the behavior if they were... 

Going to check in the morning, going to dream about aqua hot tonight, can't wait

Thanks Ivan

Wayne 

1999 Signature Caesar 


Aqua Hot
Ivan K
Just now, wayne.cerven@gmail.com said:

Going to check in the morning, going to dream about aqua hot tonight, can't wait

Thanks Ivan

Wayne 

1999 Signature Caesar 

Sweet AH dreams! It is funny but few times I woke up and knew exactly what the fix should be. Other times I knew that I knew it and could not remember....


2004 ISC 8.3 Pacbrake Mechanical and electrical/air testing method
ok-rver

New to us MH. I thought Pacbrake was working until I tried it on a short 5% grade and RPMs climbed very quickly. Previous owner only drove 4k miles in 4 years. These lock up if not used often. Some of these pictures I previously added to another post on Pacbrake repair. As this includes a method to activate the solenoid to test the brake, I have elected to start a new topic. 

I found the Pacbrake valve lever very stuck in the open position. Managed to get a small screw driver between the lever and pin to rotate the lever a bit. soaked both clevis pins, cylinder rod, and valve shaft with the Pacbrake oil. came back later and it was starting to move a little but no return by the spring (Pic 52). Oil, wire brush, moving the lever back and forth, more oil got it free and the spring would return it to the stop. Pacbrake has a good maintenance tech report. pulled the air supply hose and a squirt of oil into the fitting. Called Pacbrake tech department and asked if the solenoid had mechanical activation. Nope, 12 volt to the wires only.  My wires disappear under floor below the bed. I could not find anything that felt like a connector. 

Last night, I searched thru the electrical diagrams and found the two relays for the air solenoid and to activate the brake lights when the Pacbrake is on. The relays are in the Monaco 2 fuse/relay box in the front run compartment. Ex brake 1 and 2 relays. Relay 2 terminal 87 is the wire going directly to the Pacbrake air solenoid (pic 61 & 62). I cut half of the ring off a small crimp terminal, pulled off the insulation and inserted it into the slot that the relay would have plugged into. Part of the crimp fitting is visible in front of the green alligator clip. This was my connection to get power into the terminal associated with 87 on the relay. Connected 12vdc from the big fuse block above and I could hear the air going into the cylinder and the valve hitting the stop (pic 53). With the air solenoid energized and valve closed, I cleaned the cylinder rod off and relubed most everything. Cycled about a dozen times and checked that it was going fully open and closed. A note on the relay diagram in pic 62, terminals 85 and 86 are the relay coil, the line between 30 and 87a would be the NC contacts in what is called the shelf state, coil not energized. When the coil is energized, power is delivered from 30 to 87, which is why I supplied power to that terminal. The bottom of the relay tells what the pins are.

The fuse/relay box does not match up to the electrical diagram but the relays and fuses are labeled on the box. the darker yellow 20 amp fuse just to the left of the alligator clip is the supply to these relays. It was blown. I checked the current going to the solenoid when activated and it was 1.5 amps. Will replace the fuse later this week and go for a test run. I am a little concerned about how the fuse blew.  The solenoid is either on or off. The current does not go up if the valve does not rotate.

HRS pacbrake lube62.JPG

HRS pacbrake lube61.JPG

HRS pacbrake lube53.JPG

HRS pacbrake lube52.JPG


LP Switch, must be going blind, Scepter
ok-rver

Ordered several of the light in the above post. Came in and I installed today. Diagram on box states there is an voltage input and ground terminal but I did not see any marking on the light. First connection of wires and no light with switch on. reversed the wires and I now have a good indication of the propane solenoid being activated.

One of the terminals on my old light had broken off.

HRS propane indicator.JPG


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