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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/547-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Stands
Ivylog
Why in the hell.....I mean heck
Ivylog
Why in the hell.....I mean heck
Chargerman
Why in the hell.....I mean heck
Ivylog
Why in the hell.....I mean heck
Brett63
Why in the hell.....I mean heck
Ivylog
Broken kitchen sink drain
georgecederholm
Confussion, a place to start......
oregondarrell
Why in the hell.....I mean heck
Brett63
Broken kitchen sink drain
Gary 05 AMB DST
Broken kitchen sink drain
willbo777
Aqua Hot
Dr4Film
Aqua Hot
trailmug
Why in the hell.....I mean heck
Chuck B
Aqua Hot
wayne.cerven@gmail.com
Old inverter circuits-rewiring
Bob Blackmon
Old inverter circuits-rewiring
JDCrow
Why in the hell.....I mean heck
rpasetto
Why in the hell.....I mean heck
Rich Cutler
Why in the hell.....I mean heck
Chargerman
Old inverter circuits-rewiring
waterskier_1
Protective Film Removal Help 2002 Dynasty
bill_mary_matt
Transmission Temp range
jacwjames
Old inverter circuits-rewiring
JDCrow
Old inverter circuits-rewiring
waterskier_1
Old inverter circuits-rewiring
JDCrow
Transmission Temp range
Chuck B
Transmission Temp range
Gary 05 AMB DST
Transmission Temp range
Rick A
Old inverter circuits-rewiring
johncvandoren@gmail.com
TCM failure Allison 4000
Darren A.
Old inverter circuits-rewiring
JDCrow
Stands
ncsteve
Broken kitchen sink drain
Jobert
Transmission Temp range
Dr4Film
Transmission Temp range
Chuck B

New Posts

LED Conversion of Fluorescent Tubes - READ CAREFULLY... NOT as SIMPLE or CHEAPER??....
Ivylog

Timely post as I just ordered the same COB strips but my concern is how hot do they run? A year ago I bought some G4 Cob bulbs to replace the halogen ceiling bulbs and I was not impressed with them. Under the yellow covering was nothing but a bunch of small rectangular chips that ran very hot and one actually got so hot it melted the solder connection for the pins.

John, can you IR temp the strips that you installed to see how hot they are running?


Confussion, a place to start......
Fonman

Just 2 quick comments to add.

Voltage vs state of charge needs to be measured with no load.

Have you checked the actual voltage at the batteries with a good meter to verify what you are seeing inside the coach is accurate?


Stands
Ivylog

Like the above I put multiple 18” long 6X6s under the rails for the hitch and engine at the back of the motorhome. when getting under the rear.


Why in the hell.....I mean heck
Ivylog

Pretty sure (actually positive) with the door open it’s not going to lock when you lock the bay doors…. the two pins in the jam are not contacting the door.


Why in the hell.....I mean heck
Chargerman

Oh duh 🤦🏻‍♂️  Didn’t think of that. I will confirm though. 
 

Thanks. 


Great Price for Blue Seas ML-ACR System with Manual Control
TOBYLB4
18 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

I just ordered a Blue Seas ML-ACR with manual Control from Amazon which currently has it for $140. They have been running in the $170 range.

If you been on the fence or just procrastinating like I have, now is the time to pick one up.

https://tinyurl.com/2725yaec

Rookie RV owner 07 Dynasty. So can you tell me why I would need this. I though my system already charged and maintained the house and chassis batteries. Thanks  


Why in the hell.....I mean heck
Ivylog

Instead of going to the back of the motorhome to lock the bay doors at night, I open the door and press the lock button on the keypad and then shut the door and use the deadbolt to lock it as it’s not locked otherwise.

Guess the OP‘s keypad at the door doesn’t work because that’s how I locj/unlock my bay doors without going to the back of  the motorhome to unlock them.


LED Conversion of Fluorescent Tubes - READ CAREFULLY... NOT as SIMPLE or CHEAPER??....
rpasetto
On 8/25/2021 at 5:49 PM, Ivylog said:

 I have not had good luck with the LED strips… many chips stop working in a couple hundred hours. I have a light fixture over the sink with three of 18” fluorescent in it plus another four fluorescent elsewhere. Now that they have some age on them I'm replacing a bulb every couple months so decided to change one over to LED using 48 SMD 5050 LED Panels. Drilled the four pop rivets out to remove the guts of the Fluorescent. There were two ridges that holds the metal cover over these guts. By finding a small enough wire I was able to slide the wire into these notches making for a neat way to hold the wires that power the LED panels. I put four of the LED panels in (peal and stick after cleaning alum surface) and used the existing switch and 12v wires. I would say four LED panels put out the same amount of light as the two 15W bulbs. While I had the cover off the fixture, I drilled a hole under each switch in the translucent plastic panels so I can turn each on/off without taking the cover off. This will let me use just the new LEDs (while boondocking) or one or both of the fluorescent. 
Sorry... No pictures but sliding the new wires into the notches and putting the four LED panels where the guts came from made for a neat and simple DIY project. I would space the four panels evenly over the 18" starting with one at each end. 

Excellent idea to use the SMD panels! 

I have some narrow Fluorescents in the bays so may need to get some of the 24's too.


Why in the hell.....I mean heck
Brett63
24 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

Instead of going to the back of the motorhome to lock the bay doors at night, I open the door and press the lock button on the keypad and then shut the door and use the deadbolt to lock it as it’s not locked otherwise.

Guess the OP‘s keypad at the door doesn’t work because that’s how I locj/unlock my bay doors without going to the back of  the motorhome to unlock them.

No it works, this whole thing started simply becasue I couldn't and still can't understand why Monaco didn't simply put an unlock button in the front of the coach at the switch bank at the passenger seat. I can unlock the door and then go outside and key in the code on the entry handle to unlock the bays, but by that time I can get the fob. Both require two pushes to unlock the bay doors.

The more I think about it though I have to wonder, at least on mine if the reason there isn't one is becasue the door/bay locks are tied to the house multiplex sytem and all of the switches at the seat are on the chassis multiplex system. Beats me. Oh well.....lol Life moves on. Heck it took me a year to figure out how to turn off all of the dash switch back lights.....lol


Why in the hell.....I mean heck
Ivylog
4 minutes ago, Brett63 said:

Both require two pushes to unlock the bay doors.

Sounds like a 1st world order problem.


Broken kitchen sink drain
georgecederholm
20 hours ago, Gary Petersen said:

My problem is with the kitchen sink drain in our 2002' Signature Centurion which has the drivers side kitchen slide-out. We started getting  sink water running across the floor whenever we drained the kitchen sink. I thought at first, this sounds like a reasonably easy plumbing issue to fix. Wow, was I wrong.

I located the white colored, and stiffly corrugated 1 1/2" PVC Flexible drain pipe. I found that due to the lack of cabinet space, I could see that the pipe had been abruptly kinked to 90 degrees against the inside wall of the cabinet, specifically when the sink is in the "slide-in" position. Question: Could this possibly be Monaco's original design? Or did I find some after market repair? 

This sharp 90 degree kinking occurs just after the transition from ABS to the flexible drain. It must have happened so many times that it fractured the flexible corrugated  pipe. (photo below)

This design requires that the drain pipe be flexible so as to maintain the the integrity of the drain while constantly flexing as it maintains the 180 degree turn as the "slide-out" travel makes the pipe move several inches.

I cut out the "kink" and tried to reconnect the piping using a Fernco fitting with double hose clamps but the drain pipe pulls out of the Fernco when the Slide is sent out.

Is this the original plumbing system and has anyone else had to deal with this? I am north of Seattle; can anyone suggest a shop that may be  familiar with this Monaco system? 

Thanks, Gary

 

 

As mentioned, this is a moderately common issue, and there are write-ups in the Files section on Monacoers and various threads on other sites.

It’s not terribly hard to replace the “flex” hose. The transitions from the white PVC to the black ABS should be threaded. Cut the “flex” hose close to the fitting and unscrew the PVC. You can get replacement PVC fittings and the hose (called “spa hose”) at Home Depot or equivalent.

You can also make things a bit easier by using more flexible hose. I used the 1” plastic hose and a simple step-down PVC bushing with a barbed adapter. Much easier to replace if anything bad happens in the future, and plenty of capacity for whatever goes down the kitchen sink.

Your pictures and diagram (+) appear to show the “trolley” that’s supposed to slide in and out and stabilize the hose when moving. You’ll want to make sure that moves freely and address any issues with movement. This would also be a good time to make sure that movement hasn’t caused any excess stress on the entire ABS pipe back towards the stove and sink. Ours developed a crack behind a cabinet that had to be replaced.

https://ourrvrepairs.blogspot.com/2015/01/kitchen-sink-drain-fix-round-2.html

Or, on Monacoers web site, navigate to Home > Downloads > Water Systems and you’ll find a couple of files on Kitchen Sink Drain issues.

George C, 2005 Exec
 


Confussion, a place to start......
oregondarrell

I may be able to help. I have a Magnum 2812 in our 2004 Monterey with Samsung residential refrigerator.

Last weekend I pulled too much power while cooking dinner and heating RV. The circuit breaker on the side of the Magnum tripped and shut down power.

I reset the breaker button and Magnum went into High power charging mode. The Magnum was humming loudly and was drawing between 19-20 amps as noted on the Electrical readout on Alladin system.  This is the 3rd time this has happened, I pushed power button on the Magnum and held for 30 seconds. The Magnum cycled and restarted and charging went back to normal.

I contacted Magnum service center in WA on Monday and explained my issue. Apparently this is common and acceptable. The Tech walked me through a few changes to settings which would drop charge amps down if/when this happened again.

Call Magnum tech support, they will walk you through making the changes that at least drop the Amp draw when this happens. I am a little surprised that he did not consider this a problem.

Darrell Terry


2004 ISC 8.3 Pacbrake Mechanical and electrical/air testing method
jacwjames

I test my PacBrake every time I take the coach out.  I make sure to try the PacBrake and hear and feel it working.  I lube it about twice a year, last time actually took the air cylinder completely out so I could make sure everything was working. 


Why in the hell.....I mean heck
Brett63
23 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

Sounds like a 1st world order problem.

LOL, no doubt

 


Broken kitchen sink drain
Gary 05 AMB DST

Gary, all my OEM pipe is black pvc. Is the white pipe connected to black pipe?

Gary 05 AMB DST


Great Price for Blue Seas ML-ACR System with Manual Control
Dr4Film
1 hour ago, TOBYLB4 said:

Rookie RV owner 07 Dynasty. So can you tell me why I would need this. I though my system already charged and maintained the house and chassis batteries. Thanks  

Gary,

I would recommend reading through a bunch of the posts that have been made already by smart knowledgeable members who have already installed the ML-ACR System to their coach. Pay close attention to posts made by Vanwill as he was the one that recommended it to me back in 2017 when my Lambert Battery Maintainer failed while on our National Park Tour. Unfortunately being on the road made it difficult to order one and have it shipped as we were moving around frequently.

Simply go to the top on the right side of the Home Page is a search area. Type in ML-ACR and BINGO, you will have plenty of explanations, benefits, photos and installation instructions.


Broken kitchen sink drain
willbo777
37 minutes ago, georgecederholm said:

 

You can also make things a bit easier by using more flexible hose. I used the 1” plastic hose and a simple step-down PVC bushing with a barbed adapter. Much easier to replace if anything bad happens in the future, and plenty of capacity for whatever goes down the kitchen sink.

George C, 2005 Exec

I also replaced ours with 1" hose about 3 years ago and it gave way again.  In the interest of time I replaced it again with 1" hose, but my wife complains about the reduced drainage so one of my projects this winter will be to go back up to either 1 1/2" or possibly 1 1/4".  I agree it isn't a terribly hard project.
 

 


Aqua Hot
Dr4Film

Black smoke can be caused by a variety of conditions. One in particular is Low Voltage which causes the motor to run TOO slow. That motor is also the FAN that brings in fresh air to mix with the diesel.

Do you have the service manual which includes troubleshooting steps to determine what and where to look for causes? If not go here to retrieve you models manual. You didn't post what Aqua-Hot model you have.

There is one full page on causes for Black Smoke in the Model 100-02 on Page 70 Section 9 General Troubleshooting.

http://www.aquahot.com/library.aspx

If you run out of ideas and totally frustrated, you can ship the Webasto off to John Carrillo in Colorado and he will go through it completely replacing anything that is worn or failed, bench test it and ship it back with his service warranty.

https://heatmyrv.com/


Aqua Hot
trailmug

Checked the fuel pressure yet? I understand this is crucial.


Why in the hell.....I mean heck
Chuck B

It seems to me that it would be a lot easier for you to adapt to what is on your coach with the way it works instead of trying to change something to get it to work the way you want it to work.  But, some folks have the time to make the changes.  Then there is having to teach the DW how to use it.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Protective Film Removal Help 2002 Dynasty
Grampy OG
On 9/14/2021 at 8:01 AM, Dr4Film said:

Rhino Lining is NOT what you want to put on the front of your coach. There is a BIG difference chemically between the lining used for trucks and the protective shield used for the front of RV's.

The only company that I know that will do it correctly is located in Texas. They have two shops and are called North Texas RV located in Sherman and Krum TX.

Here are a few photos of a previous members coach who had it done before selling his coach.

P3150314.JPG

P3150316.JPG

P3150323.JPG

Painted Coach Bra.jpg

Wow!!!! That looks very very nice. I wonder what they paid... 

 


Aqua Hot
wayne.cerven@gmail.com

Morning 

Thanks guys

Took the motor out this morning,  Air mailed to Alberta coach and chassis as a core,they are sending me a new one, brining batteries in this morning for load test, also sent electrical module with the motor. Low voltage and fuel pressure are crucial,  you are correct. 

Fingers crossed

Thank again will let you know the outcome.

Wayne 

1999 Signature Caesar 


Old inverter circuits-rewiring
Bob Blackmon

If you are wiring as the drawing shows with 100% of all AC sources passing through the inverter to the original panel there is no need for a sub panel. There is also no need to separate outlets and microwave from the original panel. You also need to run AWG 6 from the transfer switch all the way through. 


Old inverter circuits-rewiring
JDCrow
10 minutes ago, Bob Blackmon said:

If you are wiring as the drawing shows with 100% of all AC sources passing through the inverter to the original panel there is no need for a sub panel. There is also no need to separate outlets and microwave from the original panel. You also need to run AWG 6 from the transfer switch all the way through. 

Yep #6 the whole way. 
 

The Microwave and GFIC circuits were not in my original panel, I have to give them breakers as they were on the inverter originally.  The inverter breaker slot in the panel will now be for the microwave, and I’m ditching the block heater outlet and giving that breaker slot to the GFIC run. 
 

I was hoping to not have to fish a wire down to the bay to pick up the GFIC run, but it has to be done. 
 

Thanks for you help 


Why in the hell.....I mean heck
rpasetto
On 9/14/2021 at 2:37 PM, Ivylog said:

Back when Monaco would fix one item for free at a rally, you could leave the door locked (not the deadbolt) as one of 5 keys would unlock it let the repair person in.

Sadly, I remember those times too.  They also advised owners in seminars to change the keypad code to something different from "1-3-5".  I don't want to hijack the thread (too much) but at one time it was two or three free things.

 

14 hours ago, Chargerman said:

Been thinking about this a bit and even though I was on board to add this switch I think that it wouldn’t be good to do unless I could separate the door lock. Currently my system/ key fob locks the entry door and bays at the same time and I would be afraid of locking myself out of the Coach if I reached in the door and hit the switch and closed the door. Would love to be able to unlock the bays though

I haven't looked too much at that diagram and traced the wiring but I've been planning to put switch(es) up front, probably hidden, to lock and unlock front and bay doors.  The way it's labeled implies the relays are in the front run bays, but also note all the actuators are labelled "Bay Door", although I suspect the RH one is supposed to be for the entry door.  Note the reference to another page 38040298, the Keyless Entry drawing.  It's not immediately clear how these interconnect.  Let us know if & how you put this switch in.  I added it to my project list but I have a few handfuls of projects above it 🙂

 

05-Sig-WD-Schematic-LocksKeylessEntry.png.e78fa5db7cab9095793f21624f0a2968.png05-Sig-WD-KeylessEntry.thumb.png.d7d90ade04681e6b9a1f3be7630ad6e5.png


Protective Film Removal Help 2002 Dynasty
JDCrow
On 9/14/2021 at 8:01 AM, Dr4Film said:

Rhino Lining is NOT what you want to put on the front of your coach. There is a BIG difference chemically between the lining used for trucks and the protective shield used for the front of RV's.

The only company that I know that will do it correctly is located in Texas. They have two shops and are called North Texas RV located in Sherman and Krum TX.

Here are a few photos of a previous members coach who had it done before selling his coach.

P3150314.JPG

P3150316.JPG

P3150323.JPG

Painted Coach Bra.jpg

That looks better 

On 9/14/2021 at 7:13 AM, bill_mary_matt said:

I removed mine on our 2001 dip le a few years  ago. I purchased a steam wall paper remover, a good adhesive remover and orange plastic razor blades. I broke it up into probably 5 sessions. Once I got the hang of it it was easy work. You just take your time. It turned out really well with no paint damage. Happy to provide product links for anyone interested. 
Bill

Before and after 49AD3D2D-5F88-458C-AB80-37112ADD6C37.thumb.jpeg.b91a76ff2cbcaef88720cb58bee8df6d.jpeg27626BD2-FD96-4B9C-8AF6-CF6F97BD9293.thumb.jpeg.fddaa9104ebf8b64dc865d523ac4112a.jpeg

Very nice. I think I’ll try your route. 


Why in the hell.....I mean heck
Rich Cutler

As I said a few days earlier, before retiring, I hang out the door and push the key pad lock.  This locks the compartments, not the front door as the door is open.  Then I  manual lock the door and the dead bolt.   Never use the fob or carry it with me as my pockets are full already.    When we leave the coach, the key pad is the lock for all, and unlock on return.  The killer cats defend against intruders if they get past the door lock.  Dead bolt lock is rarely used except when we are inside.  Nothing to steal we would miss.


Why in the hell.....I mean heck
Chargerman

I have confirmed that the relays are not in my front run bay. They are under/behind the dash. Currently on the road and will dig for them when we are home this weekend. Once I can confirm that I can lock the bays at the relay I will order a Carlingswitch normally centered two position momentary switch.  I am going to try to locate a spot inside the entry door that I can reach while standing outside. More to follow. 


Old inverter circuits-rewiring
waterskier_1
15 hours ago, JDCrow said:

Sorry to be confusing, trying to not repost a bunch. 
 

New inverter. I removed shore power from panel, ran it to new inverter. Running power back to panel. New inverter is Multiplus 2. It is pass through when on shore/Gen. 
 

Can boost 15/20/30 amp input with battery boost to run heavier loads. 
 

Here is a diagram of what I’m shooting for. No solar yet 

 

 

C9F7CAA9-2D53-495D-98CA-7646A19766D4.png

I see what you want to do now.  But I'm wondering if you have taken many things into consideration by doing this.  First, I have a Victron System with a 3K MultiPlus (not the 2), along with 3 Victron MPPT solar controller, CCGX display, BMV-702 Battery Monitor, and other associated equipment.  

1.  Victron and Code requires a "The AC input must be protected by a fuse or magnetic circuit breaker rated at 32 A( for 3 kVA model)".  I believe the newer MultiPlus2 is upgraded to 50A.  Check the serial number of your MultiPlus2 You don't show any CB between the main line in (after the transfer switch).

2. You show split phase coming out of the inverter to the power panel.  It really is two separate 115 VAC output - One Inverter and the other Non-Inverted.  I'm not 100% sure you can mix the two in the same power panel.  But lets assume you decide to do so.  I'm assuming that you then plan to connect the same microwave and GFIC outlet string to the Inverted output.  What else?  The sum of all you connect can not exceed the 50 Amp rating of the inverter.  The rest of the circuits, Front & Rear A/C, Bedroom Outlets (not inverted), Block Heater, Water Heater.  You may choose to move the Refrigerator non-inverted power to inverted, but I think you already have an inverted Ice Maker outlet at the refrigerator.  The same with your washer/dryer.  Mine is connected to the inverter, but I know to never try using the dryer when on inverter.  The best policy would be not to put it on the inverter side.

So, after adding a Main Circuit Breaker panel between the transfer switch and the inverter, you would run the wiring from the transfer switch thru that Main CB panel to the inverter.  That would require 6 gauge wire.  Then from the inverter to the existing Power Panel, you need two runs of #6 cables.  One for Inverter Output 1 (which will be inverted) and another for Inverter Output 2 (non inverted).  I would use the 50 Amp main breaker if it can be "split" into two separate breakers, or replaced with to separate 50 Amp breakers to protect the inverter outputs.  Then you need to pull new wires (or maybe existing) for the microwave 20 Amp circuit, and the GFCI Outlet 20 Amp circuit.  I think you said you already pulled the Microwave circuit to the Power panel.  You might be able to use the existing #10 gauge wire that used to feed the inverter input to tie to the GFCI Outlet circuit in a junction box.  That would save having to run additional wires. New 20 Amp Circuit Breaker for those circuits need to be added to that breaker panel.  It is acceptable to use a 20 Amp CB with #10 wire.  

Now if you are intending to connect one the A/Cs to the inverter, that might work, as long as you don't have the microwave running, or turn on a coffee maker or hair dryer.  

I'm not clear the purpose of running 12 VDC into the RV Breaker Panel.  Are you planning on using Load Shedding or other EMS in the breaker panel?

You'll likely have to rewire the 12 VDC side to account for the additional power the inverter will consume. 

 


Transmission Temp range
jacwjames

In the past my transmission temps would climb when climbing hills etc.  Not sure the highest it eve got to but on my most recent trip I noticed it climbing to ~210/15 periodically during my 5 week trip out west. In the mountains of KY and TN coming south on I75 I saw the same thing.   So now I've started to become paranoid.  I did take the time to hose out the radiator stack after I got back from my trip. 

This week I was doing some work on the coach and decided to go ahead and change transmission filters.   I have about 35K miles on it, although I had not changed filters for 5 years (Covid).  Nothing unusual noted, the filters did not have signs of contamination, I caught the couple quarts of oil in a large paint roller try and had put a white plastic bag over it so I could take a good look at the oil, again I didn't see any problems with the oil.  I measured out the oil that I had drain and then added the same amount to the transmission. 

I then took it on a drive to get it hot and check oil.   It checked out OK.   I did climb a couple short grades and by the time I got back to the my house the temps were ~210F.  I have to back my rig into my garage, backing up a short slope.  It took me a couple tries and by the time I was in the garage the transmission temps was +220 F (I had set an alarm on my Silverleaf for 220 and it had started to go off).  By the time I shut the engine down it was 229F.  During this time the engine temps were normal ~183F

So the other day I went and pressure washed the radiator stack, climbing underneath and spraying with an oscillating type head working around the fan blade and shroud the best I could.  I then sprayed from the outside in through the CAC.  I did check the temp sensor wiring, it was barely on so I pulled it off and slipped it back on tight.  I then took the rig for the same drive and this time by the time I was in the garage the temps were ~210,  but it only took one attempt to get in the garage.  Do I have a problem coming on?

What kind of temps to other see, specifically a Windsor or Dynasty of this vintage 2002 model year with the 350 ISC.  

Is there a way to check if the cooling stack is not plugged?  My radiator is ~6 years old with ~12K miles on it.  But when it was installed Cummins must have had the B team on it.  Had several problems that I had to fix after I got it back, driveshaft out of phase, sheet metal screws missing from radiator shroud, thermovalve screwed up because the left of piece of rag in it.  No telling if they may have left something in the radiator. 

I have ordered a lube test kit from JG Lubricants and will pull a sample and send it in.

Any suggestions on what else to do?? 


Old inverter circuits-rewiring
JDCrow
17 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:

I see what you want to do now.  But I'm wondering if you have taken many things into consideration by doing this.  First, I have a Victron System with a 3K MultiPlus (not the 2), along with 3 Victron MPPT solar controller, CCGX display, BMV-702 Battery Monitor, and other associated equipment.  

1.  Victron and Code requires a "The AC input must be protected by a fuse or magnetic circuit breaker rated at 32 A( for 3 kVA model)".  I believe the newer MultiPlus2 is upgraded to 50A.  Check the serial number of your MultiPlus2 You don't show any CB between the main line in (after the transfer switch).

2. You show split phase coming out of the inverter to the power panel.  It really is two separate 115 VAC output - One Inverter and the other Non-Inverted.  I'm not 100% sure you can mix the two in the same power panel.  But lets assume you decide to do so.  I'm assuming that you then plan to connect the same microwave and GFIC outlet string to the Inverted output.  What else?  The sum of all you connect can not exceed the 50 Amp rating of the inverter.  The rest of the circuits, Front & Rear A/C, Bedroom Outlets (not inverted), Block Heater, Water Heater.  You may choose to move the Refrigerator non-inverted power to inverted, but I think you already have an inverted Ice Maker outlet at the refrigerator.  The same with your washer/dryer.  Mine is connected to the inverter, but I know to never try using the dryer when on inverter.  The best policy would be not to put it on the inverter side.

So, after adding a Main Circuit Breaker panel between the transfer switch and the inverter, you would run the wiring from the transfer switch thru that Main CB panel to the inverter.  That would require 6 gauge wire.  Then from the inverter to the existing Power Panel, you need two runs of #6 cables.  One for Inverter Output 1 (which will be inverted) and another for Inverter Output 2 (non inverted).  I would use the 50 Amp main breaker if it can be "split" into two separate breakers, or replaced with to separate 50 Amp breakers to protect the inverter outputs.  Then you need to pull new wires (or maybe existing) for the microwave 20 Amp circuit, and the GFCI Outlet 20 Amp circuit.  I think you said you already pulled the Microwave circuit to the Power panel.  You might be able to use the existing #10 gauge wire that used to feed the inverter input to tie to the GFCI Outlet circuit in a junction box.  That would save having to run additional wires. New 20 Amp Circuit Breaker for those circuits need to be added to that breaker panel.  It is acceptable to use a 20 Amp CB with #10 wire.  

Now if you are intending to connect one the A/Cs to the inverter, that might work, as long as you don't have the microwave running, or turn on a coffee maker or hair dryer.  

I'm not clear the purpose of running 12 VDC into the RV Breaker Panel.  Are you planning on using Load Shedding or other EMS in the breaker panel?

You'll likely have to rewire the 12 VDC side to account for the additional power the inverter will consume. 

 

So now you went and blew my mind. I’ll have to re read your post and try and decipher it. 
 

My understanding is the Multiplus 2 is 100% pass though (2 120 legs) when on shore power. On inverter. It will send power on just 1 leg of 120. So we know our limits when on the inverter. 
 

Beyond that, I’m fresh out of ideas and will post follow up in the mod section. 
 

Thanks again very much. It sounds like you have a great set up! I hope to have a good system Myself 


Low Beam Headlight Issue with Overheated J12 Connector on SmartWheel Controller
waterskier_1

Yes, that is correct.  You might consider wiring the 12g YEL wire to TS1 Terminal "HDLMP Power" for convivence - that way you will have two wires from the relay to the Terminal Strip.  Either way, your diagram is good. 


Great Price for Blue Seas ML-ACR System with Manual Control
FishAR

I've read ml-acr posts until my eyes are bleeding, but have seen no pics comparable to my unit.

 

So does this unit replace the trombetta in my rear elec. bay?


Old inverter circuits-rewiring
waterskier_1
8 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

So now you went and blew my mind. I’ll have to re read your post and try and decipher it. 
 

My understanding is the Multiplus 2 is 100% pass though (2 120 legs) when on shore power. On inverter. It will send power on just 1 leg of 120. So we know our limits when on the inverter. 
 

Beyond that, I’m fresh out of ideas and will post follow up in the mod section. 
 

Thanks again very much. It sounds like you have a great set up! I hope to have a good system Myself 

Your understanding is correct, the MultiPlus2 is 100% pass through on shore power. I'm not sure what blew your mind, other than you need a CB before the inverter so you can shut power off to it, and protect both it and the wiring in case something goes wrong.

 


Old inverter circuits-rewiring
JDCrow
2 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:

Your understanding is correct, the MultiPlus2 is 100% pass through on shore power. I'm not sure what blew your mind, other than you need a CB before the inverter so you can shut power off to it, and protect both it and the wiring in case something goes wrong.

 

All good, just a long post so I need to digest. In all honestly, I’m not experienced in this and learning as I go. Lots on here are super sharp, and I have to slow down and read what is posted. 

 

 


Protective Film Removal Help 2002 Dynasty
Chuck B

This topic has been around since the early 2000's.  I spent some time in and around Foley, Al where Rex Darley lived.  There was a shop in that area that did spray on bed liners.  They did a Monaco coach using the same colors that the coach was painted.  I looked like the coach in the pictures shown on this thread.  I do not know if some of the pictures were the same coach.  Any way the spray on bed liner is a option.  What I like about it is that the front end of the coach can be washed using a brush to get the bugs off.  Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Transmission Temp range
Chuck B

This is a good opportunity to remind coach owners that when they are picking up their coach after having work done, to take a test drive with the shop foreman or technician before paying the bill.  That way any questionable items can be addressed.  Otherwise you are going to get the used vehicle salesman guarantee, guaranteed until he sees the taillights leave the driveway.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


LED Conversion of Fluorescent Tubes - READ CAREFULLY... NOT as SIMPLE or CHEAPER??....
just_john1

Ivylog

I don't have a clue how hot these run, never thought of it. I'm sorry I don't have an IR meter. They just seem to work and I love the brightness. Good luck and let me know how they work for you.


Protective Film Removal Help 2002 Dynasty
JDCrow
24 minutes ago, Chuck B said:

This topic has been around since the early 2000's.  I spent some time in and around Foley, Al where Rex Darley lived.  There was a shop in that area that did spray on bed liners.  They did a Monaco coach using the same colors that the coach was painted.  I looked like the coach in the pictures shown on this thread.  I do not know if some of the pictures were the same coach.  Any way the spray on bed liner is a option.  What I like about it is that the front end of the coach can be washed using a brush to get the bugs off.  Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor

Agree for sure. Some of us are form over function, or vise versa 


Transmission Temp range
Gary 05 AMB DST

Not sure but isn't the trans cooler located under the radiator stack? The oblong box with radiator and transmission hoses going to it. I don't know how the two fluids get separated to return to their point of origin.

Gary 05 AMB DST


Transmission Temp range
Rick A

Like medical, taking a vehicle to the mechanic can’t result in dire consequences and unexpected surprises. 


Old inverter circuits-rewiring
johncvandoren@gmail.com

Separate related question: how do you access the cable run from the main breaker panel to the inverter?  In my 06 Knight, the panel is above the laundry near the road side in the rear bathroom, and the inverter is in the rear curb-side cubby.


TCM failure Allison 4000
Darren A.

Update the repair shop replaced the TCM but still unable to communicate with the RV to receive codes.  They test drove the unit 3 times no issues with shifting.  However I’m concerned that they still don’t know what caused the shifter to shutdown in the first place.  I’m concerned it would happen again.  I desperately seeking any other advice


Old inverter circuits-rewiring
JDCrow
8 minutes ago, johncvandoren@gmail.com said:

Separate related question: how do you access the cable run from the main breaker panel to the inverter?  In my 06 Knight, the panel is above the laundry near the road side in the rear bathroom, and the inverter is in the rear curb-side cubby.

So on our Dip, there is romex wiring coming down from the panel to the inverter, and then 2 romex going back up to microwave and then GFIC outlet in the bathroom. 
 

There is a small sleeve that runs up from bay to the wall, from there it’s open and wire goes where it needs to 


Stands
ncsteve
On 7/30/2021 at 10:20 AM, Brett63 said:

Those are the ones I have as well. They are the beef!


Broken kitchen sink drain
Jobert

We have experienced the same problem, twice, so I went to a auto parts store and looked up a flexible radiator hose the length and diameter I needed.  I put slip on connectors at each end of the plumbing plastic and used double hose clamps on each end. That has worked for 4 years now.  You need a parts person experienced in looking up something by size and not by application.  Those types are getting harder to come by with everything by application on a computer.  Hope this may help and have a great day. Happy trails Bert


Transmission Temp range
Dr4Film

Jim,

I believe our CG&J radiators have the transmission cooler built into the main coolant radiator.

My original factory radiator system would always run fairly low temps for both the coolant and the transmission. They were in the range of 180F to 185F unless climbing a grade. Then they would approach 195F - 200F

The new CG&J radiator for whatever reason is giving me higher transmission temps but coolant temps have remained the same. On average the transmission temps are now running 5F-10F higher.

However I have never seen coolant and transmission temps in the range you are now experiencing. I would be looking to see why.

What were the temps of the coolant and transmission right after having the new radiator installed? Are they significantly higher now than back then?

1 hour ago, Rick A said:

Like medical, taking a vehicle to the mechanic can’t result in dire consequences and unexpected surprises. 

I agree, especially if they are not a reputable service center with knowledgeable service techs.

That's why when I find a shop that has an owner and service techs that turn out to be the best, I will ALWAYS take my coach to them no matter how far away I have to drive to get there.

I am very fortunate to have found a few places near where I live in Florida. Josam's for chassis work and Action Mobile for engine work both located in Orlando.


Transmission Temp range
Chuck B

On my 2004 Windsor the transmission cooler is Not in the radiator.  The cooler is mounted on the left side of the engine.  That cooler is about 6 inches square and about 4 feet long.  The transmission fluid cooler runs in a pipe that is on the inside of the cooler.  The radiator antifreeze is plumbed through the cooler and surrounds the pipe the transmission fluid runs in.  Send me a PM at jbee99807 @ gmail.com remove the spaces.  I will send you a picture of it.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Low Beam Headlight Issue with Overheated J12 Connector on SmartWheel Controller
Ivylog

Not sure larger wires are going to help as the heat (resistance) is at the contacts. My guess is that over time, like 10 years, the contacts develop some corrosion and start to heat up which accelerates the issue. 

I recently replaced my headlight bulbs with LED… haven’t driven with them yet and didn’t measure the reduced amps they should draw. I’m not planning on adding the relays I bought on a dedicated circuit as the lower amps and annual removal of the J12 plug (several times) should, hopefully, solve the problem.


Old inverter circuits-rewiring
johncvandoren@gmail.com
2 hours ago, JDCrow said:

So on our Dip, there is romex wiring coming down from the panel to the inverter, and then 2 romex going back up to microwave and then GFIC outlet in the bathroom. 
 

There is a small sleeve that runs up from bay to the wall, from there it’s open and wire goes where it needs to 

Thanks, where is it “open”?  I can see where it goes into the tube up from cubby into the outer wall, but cannot find the path from there to the breaker panel.


TCM failure Allison 4000
Ivan K

Where is he plugging into? Our 4060 has a separate diagnostic connector beside the steering wheel under dash.


Transmission Temp range
jacwjames

My transmission cooler is built into the coolant radiator.

I really can't remember what my transmissions temp ran with the old radiator, nothing that would raise any alarms in the back of my head.   Now it seems that the transmission temps run higher then the coolant temp.  Normally ~190 vs 183, but then as soon as I get onto any types of grade it goes up and/or stop and go traffic. 

I'm going to take a coolant sample and see what it shows. 


Old inverter circuits-rewiring
JDCrow
12 minutes ago, johncvandoren@gmail.com said:

Thanks, where is it “open”?  I can see where it goes into the tube up from cubby into the outer wall, but cannot find the path from there to the breaker panel.

Sure, so I was able to “grab” the wires behind the cable plate in the TV cubby. From there it’s a straight shot down. You’ll have to tug a bit to break through the foam used.

The bigger hole is there when I took the panel out to see where things go, to give you an idea what’s back there. 8CD5587E-B1B6-441D-A45E-AB79B74968DF.thumb.jpeg.beacca9b616d6af231cea33410fa4388.jpeg

3CCCAC93-A3AD-4D01-8D74-91CDB9B71E89.jpeg


Old inverter circuits-rewiring
johncvandoren@gmail.com

Thanks again.  The rear bath is above the inverter cubby & engine, with a wardrobe closet across the back wall to the laundry below the breaker panel. The Romex comes in & goes out high up behind the panel.  I’ll have to pull & poke around to find the path.  


Prime the heating zones in aquahot AHE 100 S
bmulvenna@hotmail.com

2004 Dynasty with aquahot AHE 100 S.

Along with annual maintenance we just replaced the 16 gallons of boiler antifreeze. Since the three heating zones do not self prime, does anyone have the procedure to prime each of the zones? 

Thanks in advance.

 

 


Modernizing my 2008 Safari Cheetah
McHughes

More minor upgrades.  Since I removed the original 6 disc Home Theater/DVD player and Subwoofer there was no need for the three directional speakers in the front ceiling.  Replaced them with the same speakers in both the center of the coach and bedroom.  Sounds are much improved.

speakers.jpg


Prime the heating zones in aquahot AHE 100 S
Ivan K

All our zones ran just fine after refilling, just topped the tank up afterwards. The pressure of hot coolant plays a role I suppose.


TCM failure Allison 4000
Darren A.

You are correct, I knew that as well.  I asked the technician if he tested from that location?  He said he did.  It makes no sense to me the TCM was sent out for testing they said it was faulty.  It’s been replaced and I have the old one.  


Slide Sealant Caulking
96 EVO

All models / years didn't come with these catch cups.

I have none on any slides.


Slide Sealant Caulking
Dr4Film

Our Windsor doesn't have them either.


Ride Height Adjustment '08 Camelot?
RustyTools

I had a heck of a time trying to find one of those 'high-tech ride-height DIY-calibrated adjustment pointers'.  Wife had lots and lots of plastic ones, but none of the old-school metal ones.  Finally had to cut up my trusty commode-clean-out swirly stick 🥴.  (BTW, I cleaned it first).

Now I gotta ask, Harry, why you went with 8 1/2" vs 8 13/16"? Can you tell/feel the 5/16" difference?

 

Newest project is re-adjusting the cables & chains in the curb-side bedroom slideout.  Seems one chain is loose and droops down when the slide is coming in, catching on the other chain/cable connector causing them to interfere with each other and not allow the slide to come in.  The BAL Accu-Slide manual has a good write-up of  how to adjust them. Should be a simple job, right?  ha ha ha ha ha ...


Great Price for Blue Seas ML-ACR System with Manual Control
TOBYLB4
10 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Gary,

I would recommend reading through a bunch of the posts that have been made already by smart knowledgeable members who have already installed the ML-ACR System to their coach. Pay close attention to posts made by Vanwill as he was the one that recommended it to me back in 2017 when my Lambert Battery Maintainer failed while on our National Park Tour. Unfortunately being on the road made it difficult to order one and have it shipped as we were moving around frequently.

Simply go to the top on the right side of the Home Page is a search area. Type in ML-ACR and BINGO, you will have plenty of explanations, benefits, photos and installation instructions.

Thank you sir


TCM failure Allison 4000
Ivan K

I recall seeing diag fuse in our FRB, maybe more than one. I know there is one for the engine diag, wonder if for the tranny too.


Power to front run circuit board
windsorbill06

Hi all. 

does anyone know how 12 volt power gets to front run bay circuit board?  Drawings may be in files section (I haven’t looked) , but I only have access to my iPhone right now and display is pretty small.  2006 Windsor
 

thanks. 


TCM failure Allison 4000
Darren A.

Doing a lot of research here is it possible the VIM has bad fuse or relay?  I just read on another social platform that the VIM powers the ECU which would make sense right?  Maybe why they cannot communicate with unit?


Slideout Curtain on 2007 Signature and Others
Hypoxia

I just repaired a frayed/broken string on the front X-slideout curtain.  It is an easy job, nothing like day/night shades.  The curtain strings are attached to bungee cords so it was just a matter of replacing the string and using a small piece of 1/4" aluminum tubing to crimp them together.  Here are some photos to help the next repairman.  The .pdf file attached shows a photo of the curtain in place as well as the Monaco dimensions and part number.

Slideout Curtain 10.JPG

Slideout Curtain 2.JPG

Slideout Curtain 3.JPG

Slideout Curtain 4.JPG

Slideout Curtain 5.JPG

Slideout Curtain 6.JPG

Slideout Curtain 7.JPG

Slideout Curtain 8.JPG

Slideout Curtain 9.JPG

Slideout Curtain.pdf


2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
JDCrow

Work called and took after to rest. Did Mod the inverter bottom to accept carflex 90s. Back in it goes 

C9D6C7DA-DA42-419E-8D6D-EB426B75A912.jpeg

54461D98-6822-4948-8653-4E051CE3C5F4.jpeg

0B61353D-BDD4-4F1C-858C-18889A860545.jpeg


Power to front run circuit board
waterskier_1

From the Rear Run Bay. 


Great Price for Blue Seas ML-ACR System with Manual Control
pwhittle
9 hours ago, FishAR said:

I've read ml-acr posts until my eyes are bleeding, but have seen no pics comparable to my unit.

 

So does this unit replace the trombetta in my rear elec. bay?

Michael,

I have installed a few of the ML-ACR’s in different coaches. Can you post a picture of your bay with the existing wiring (Big Boy, Trombetta, etc) and we can see how you could proceed?
 

Paul


TCM failure Allison 4000
Ivan K

True that the ECU gets power through VIM and ignition but I doubt your transmission would work without it. If the diagnostic port is a 12 pin type as mine,  only 4 pins are used, 2 for power 2 for data link. The power could be checked between pins A and H. Should be present with ignition ON. Allison also requires different reader cartridges for the interface based on the ECU version, that might be part of the problem. But if you just wanted to check for codes, the touch pad should do that. I bet you know that already and just want to have the diag port working.


Slide Sealant Caulking
isptbart
4 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

All models / years didn't come with these catch cups.

I have none on any slides.

Catch cups? Not sure to what you are referring?

Catch cups? Not sure to what you are referring?

Bart


Ride height linkage rubber end big cracks
ok-rver

I have been chasing an air leak that allows our new to us Scepter to list to port (driver side) as the air tank pressure drops to around 70 psi. Lots of time under the coach and I noticed cracks in the rubber of the end links. Could not find just the ends so bought 3 complete kit. My local truck shop had them a bit less than the find my parts type place. I pulled the old ends of the old rods and installed the new ends on the old rods. The new rods allow up to 20" between the end link bolts and would have had to be cut. The original equipment linkage uses a clamp similar to what is used on PEX. It was not obvious until I had the linkage off. Preventive maintenance can really keep you out of trouble. Not sure how long the left badly cracked end link would have lasted. If it separated, the coach would probably have expelled all air from the driver side bags and been on the stops pretty quick. 

HRS air ride links.JPG


Slide Sealant Caulking
JDCrow
1 hour ago, isptbart said:

Catch cups? Not sure to what you are referring?

Catch cups? Not sure to what you are referring?

Bart

These are the cups at the ends of the bottom part of the slide openings. Last pic is a stuffed cup with a shingle of rubber over it. 

66C7C941-B5A9-41A5-8AD9-43D31B862E14.jpeg

69412BCF-2496-4579-A8D4-2251AF7B3F8F.jpeg

B20A585A-2D87-4A4A-A7A9-CBB0EAABD0FB.jpeg


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