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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/548-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Slide Sealant Caulking
Ray Davis
Slide Sealant Caulking
Dr4Film
TCM failure Allison 4000
jacwjames
Ride height linkage rubber end big cracks
Gary 05 AMB DST
Prime the heating zones in aquahot AHE 100 S
bmulvenna@hotmail.com
Ride height linkage rubber end big cracks
Gary 05 AMB DST
AC dryer and expansion valve
timkuhler
Prime the heating zones in aquahot AHE 100 S
bmulvenna@hotmail.com
Slide Sealant Caulking
96 EVO
AC dryer and expansion valve
Hypoxia
AC dryer and expansion valve
redeye0315
AC dryer and expansion valve
Timaz996
Slide Sealant Caulking
Ray Davis
AC dryer and expansion valve
Ray Davis
Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
6Wheels
Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
klcdenver
Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
vito.a
Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
Dr4Film
Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
JetAburner
Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
JDCrow
Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
planodp
Paint Girard awning cover
MHRookie
Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
Dr4Film
Air Dryer Keeps Failing
JohnC3
Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
Ivylog
Air Bags
JohnC3
Paint Girard awning cover
Ivylog
Air Bags
Ivylog
Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
JDCrow

New Posts

Great Price for Blue Seas ML-ACR System with Manual Control
FishAR
8 hours ago, pwhittle said:

Michael,

I have installed a few of the ML-ACR’s in different coaches. Can you post a picture of your bay with the existing wiring (Big Boy, Trombetta, etc) and we can see how you could proceed?
 

Paul

Thanks Paul.

1st pic rear bay with trombetta, 2nd pic front bay with ird.

rear elec bay.jpg

front elec bay.jpg


Great Price for Blue Seas ML-ACR System with Manual Control
pwhittle

Hi Michael,

That is different from other coaches I have worked on.

A few questions:

1 Is the relay in the RRB for the Salesman Switch?

2 Is the relay in the FRB for combining the battery banks?

3 Do you have a Battery Boost switch?

4 If so, does it make the relay in the FRB click?

5 Is there a part number on the relay in the FRB?

6 Do you have wiring diagrams for the FRB?

Thanks

Paul

 


Slide Sealant Caulking
Ray Davis

Cups?   I'm not seeing it.       👀


Great Price for Blue Seas ML-ACR System with Manual Control
jacwjames

Back early this year I started to question whether my Lambert LE415 was working correctly, this is what would maintain my chassis battery was plugged in.  For some reason the Lambert started to click intermediately, which I never remember it doing before.  I started to check my chassis battery and it was usually reading ~12.4 volts, not enough to keep it charged fully.  So I started to look at options. 

I know the VanWill & PWhittle had installed the Bluesea ML-ACR and I had talked to Van on this several times.   I saw no downside to installing this as it would replace the Lambert, BIRD, and Isolation relay.  The isolation relay is what combines the battery banks for the auxiliary boost and is activated by a switch on the dash.    The Bluesea would do the same thing automatically.   The hardest part for me was finding an extra wire from the dash to the rear of the coach to wire in the switch.  I wasted at least a day looking for wire and finally just ran five extra wires for future use. 

The install itself relatively easy, simply remove the isolation relay and replace with the Bluesea.  You can actually just install that and it would work combining both batteries if there is a charging source but to make it convenient to combine the batteries from the drivers seat the switch is required.  After I ran the extra wire I just followed the wiring diagram to connect the switch, simple enough that even I could do it.

There are options to wire the Bluesea to not connect while starting the coach, and or running the generator.  There have been reports of problems with a charging system if you run the generator down the road competing with the alternator.  There is an option to wire the Bluesea so that if it sees charge from the generator it would not combine battery banks, which would isolate the chassis battery.  This is an easy option and one that I am considering.

Here is a picture of my Bluesea install, it is mounted where my isolation relay was. 

Blue Sea ML-ARC.jpg


Ride height linkage rubber end big cracks
RVhorod

The bushings with the rod are readily available on line at most truck parts stores. I had the same issue several years ago on our 2000 fo.

Sorry I'm traveling now don't have access to my info.


Slide Sealant Caulking
Dr4Film
39 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

Cups?   I'm not seeing it.       👀

Me neither!


TCM failure Allison 4000
jacwjames

On my 2002 Windsor I have 3 separate fuse holders in my rear run bay that hold the 7 fuses for the Eng, Eng diagnostic, transmission.  Yours may also have these in another spot. 

In the Cummins Quickserve site there is an electrical diagram showing the interaction of the ECM and the chassis, there is also some interaction with the transmission.  It is under the "Service" tab and listed as wiring diagrams.  It does show 5 of the 7 fuses. 

 


Great Price for Blue Seas ML-ACR System with Manual Control
FishAR
2 hours ago, pwhittle said:

Hi Michael,

That is different from other coaches I have worked on.

A few questions:

1 Is the relay in the RRB for the Salesman Switch?

2 Is the relay in the FRB for combining the battery banks?

3 Do you have a Battery Boost switch?

4 If so, does it make the relay in the FRB click?

5 Is there a part number on the relay in the FRB?

6 Do you have wiring diagrams for the FRB?

Thanks

Paul

 

I have a whole book of wiring diagrams that came with the coach. I'll have to get out there and take wife with me to answer about the click. I'll get the part numbers I can find and write them down.

I do have a battery boost switch on the dash.

I thought the big trombetta relay in the back elec bay was to combine the batteries with the boost switch, but I really don't know enough about this unit to say for sure.


Great Price for Blue Seas ML-ACR System with Manual Control
Ray Davis
22 minutes ago, FishAR said:

I thought the big trombetta relay in the back elec bay was to combine the batteries with the boost switch, but I really don't know enough about this unit to say for sure.

I think you're right,  seems you would want it close to the batteries and engine.   The front elect bay is a long way from the batteries and eng IMHO.

I installed a ML-ACR in my 03 Windsor,  looks just like Jim's.   I still haven't installed the control switch up front,  maybe soon.


Ride height linkage rubber end big cracks
Dr4Film

I assume that these are the fittings that are attached to the top of the Ride Height Valves, correct?

A photo would be beneficial.


Ride height linkage rubber end big cracks
Ivan K
7 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

I assume that these are the fittings that are attached to the top of the Ride Height Valves, correct?

A photo would be beneficial.

These are the same for top and bottom. I carry a complete rod set from Napa in case one got ripped away by road trash or such.

Screenshot_20210917-093208-446.png


Ride height linkage rubber end big cracks
Gary 05 AMB DST

What preventive maintenance is suggested? Is there a way to keep the rubber from cracking?

Gary 05 AMB DST


Ride height linkage rubber end big cracks
Ivan K
21 minutes ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

What preventive maintenance is suggested? Is there a way to keep the rubber from cracking?

Gary 05 AMB DST

I haven't touched them and mine are still good after 20 years and nearly 200k miles. I carry a spare for just in case just like number of other parts that I may never need... They are made of hard rubber, not much I could do for them.


Prime the heating zones in aquahot AHE 100 S
bmulvenna@hotmail.com
18 hours ago, Ivan K said:

All our zones ran just fine after refilling, just topped the tank up afterwards. The pressure of hot coolant plays a role I suppose.

I have read that the zone pumps are not self priming. I ran one for quite awhile but no heat.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks 


Ride height linkage rubber end big cracks
Gary 05 AMB DST

Ivan, you have the same philosophy as I do. Have the part in storage and you will never need it .

Gary 05 AMB DST


Ride height linkage rubber end big cracks
ok-rver

The parts shown above are slightly different than mine but should work correctly. The truck shop had both. The ones I got are Hadley, the same as the air height valves. There have been a few post about spraying with 303 protectant. would not hurt.


Prime the heating zones in aquahot AHE 100 S
Ivan K

Tap the backflow valve above the pump. If you get coolant expanding with heat into to expansion tank, it should have filled the pumps well before there is enough pressure to overflow.


Great Price for Blue Seas ML-ACR System with Manual Control
jacwjames
2 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

I think you're right,  seems you would want it close to the batteries and engine.   The front elect bay is a long way from the batteries and eng IMHO.

I installed a ML-ACR in my 03 Windsor,  looks just like Jim's.   I still haven't installed the control switch up front,  maybe soon.

The control switch is nice to have as it allows for flexibility and convenience.  There are LED lights on it, so when it is connected it displays both light and then one light on top if the ML-ACR is "On" and bottom if it is "Off".  When I was working on my coach I had turned one of the disconnects off and forgot about it.  Next day when I was in the coach the light was flashing on and off showing something was wrong. 

If you do run one wire you might as well run multiple.  I was trying to buy a 50' piece of 14 awg to run and not one had it locally but Harbor Freight had a 5 wire trailer harness for a good price so I bought two of these and spliced them together, it was an easy pull through the 3/4" conduit I had already run for my fuel pressure gauge. 


AC dryer and expansion valve
timkuhler

I need help in finding a AC dryer and expansion valve for my 2008 Holiday Rambler Scepter.  I have the red engine, ISL400.  I have found the Sanden 4420 compressor, but need to find the correct dryer and expansion valve before I tear into it.  Any help is appreciated. Thanks Tim Kuhler. Tkdk@hctc.net


Ride height linkage rubber end big cracks
Donflem

How do I list something for sell on this  form, it’s a 10 K generator? 


Prime the heating zones in aquahot AHE 100 S
bmulvenna@hotmail.com
38 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Tap the backflow valve above the pump. If you get coolant expanding with heat into to expansion tank, it should have filled the pumps well before there is enough 

Thanks. You are referring to each zone pump correct?


Slide Sealant Caulking
96 EVO

Ok, Gary call's them plastic catch basin's.

I have no basin's or 's.

I do have 🍻's, but that's a story for another day!


Great Price for Blue Seas ML-ACR System with Manual Control
Hancoman

My alternator is out it is the LN 14 v 270amp duvac   I am going to install the ML-ACR and go to a Delco  28si  Is the 200 amp a sufficient replacement for my 270 amp? I also have a multi wire plug coming out of my alternator is this the wire that goes to my tachometer. Pictures below

Thanks Tom C

70197B38-7044-4B78-B913-3ACFD66D8177.jpeg

10441E5A-4AB0-406B-A5B8-50B159F59E10.jpeg

1E2EE37B-7690-41CB-971C-98198AC30AA5.jpeg


Prime the heating zones in aquahot AHE 100 S
Ivan K

Yes, at the outlet of zone pumps while they are running. Specifically the one(s) where the line out to registers does not feel warm. They like to stick closed once a while, if not in use for a while.


AC dryer and expansion valve
Hypoxia

Possibly dryer and expansion valve 

UAC Parts


AC dryer and expansion valve
redeye0315

On my 2003 scepter, the drier is located above the rear differential. Right in front of differential, bolted to the underside of the floor. It high up in there and difficult to reach. I actually need to change mine but haven’t figured out how to access it. The expansion valve is located in the front next to the service ports wrapped in rubberized insulation tape 


AC dryer and expansion valve
Timaz996

If you were asking where they are located on your coach they should be upfront. Open your compartment for where the generator is at and look in there.If you were asking where they are located on your coach they should be upfront. Open your compartment for where the generator is at and look in there.

Tim


Slide Sealant Caulking
Ray Davis

Ok in picture #1 it looks like you have removed the bottom wiper seal so I see a roller and looks like maybe inside the coach.  I still can't figure out the cups.

Maybe I need some too.  Are they a manufactured item or something Monaco configured?


AC dryer and expansion valve
Ray Davis
39 minutes ago, redeye0315 said:

On my 2003 scepter, the drier is located above the rear differential. Right in front of differential, bolted to the underside of the floor. It high up in there and difficult to reach. I actually need to change mine but haven’t figured out how to access it. The expansion valve is located in the front next to the service ports wrapped in rubberized insulation tape 

That's exactly like my 03 Windsor.   I managed to sit up in a space under there and change my dryer.  Took it and expansion valve to my local Parts Plus and they had both of them

I think I can see the dryer from my bedroom hatch,  might even be able to replace it from there.


Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
6Wheels

2004 Diplomat 40PDQ for $80,000 in Irondale, Alabama

Diplomat 40PDQ RV for sale in Irondale, AL for $80,000 | 243968 (poprvs.com)

 

What things should I particularly need to check for?


Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
klcdenver

Beware of Pop’s. I had a not so good experience with them. 


Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
vito.a

NADA average retail is $47,400.  Low retail is $39,350.  Also, the book says its 330hp.  

2004 Monaco Diplomat Series M-40PDQ 330hp Prices and Used Values | NADAguides


Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
Dr4Film

The price is WAY too high for that coach even with the upgrades.

You can get a lot more coach higher on the food chain for that money.


Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
JetAburner

Bought my '99 Windsor for $36,000. Stored indoors since new with literally thousands of dollars in parts and camping accessories.  To high.


Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
JDCrow

Needs tires. 
 

Says entire wiring replaced due to lighting strike. Would be curious to know what the title status is. But yeah, it’s high priced. Punch in options you get to average retail of $58k 


Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
planodp

Pick up my 04 Executive for less money then that 2 years ago. Look some more.


Squeaky Bedroom electric tack & pinion slide
Wrayj1

My slide with bed in it was squeaking very loudly when I deployed and retracted it.  it's electric rack and pinion.  I removed the plywood cover, did not see anything unusual.  I lubricated with dry silicone the track, rollers and other parts that might need lubrication.  I also deployed the slide and lubricated the track from the outside as far as I could get the silicone lubricant into the mechanism.  I deployed and retracted the slide 3-4 times and the squeak seemed to be much less than previous to lubricating, but still there.

Any other thoughts would be appreciated. 2007 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 40 SKQ.

Thanks


Great Price for Blue Seas ML-ACR System with Manual Control
Ivan K

I suppose yours is an all electric coach with LN 270A? Ours got a 200A that works fine but we are not 'all electric' with only 4 house batteries. The wires from the back of it are for the tach, duvac and ALT light relay.


Paint Girard awning cover
MHRookie

Anyone paint their Girard awning plastic cover?  Mines experiencing UV deterioration and paint is peeling.

 

thanks,

Kurt


Great Price for Blue Seas ML-ACR System with Manual Control
Hancoman

Not all electric. 2001 still have propane cooktop and refer


Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
Dr4Film
24 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

Needs tires. 
 

Says entire wiring replaced due to lighting strike. Would be curious to know what the title status is. But yeah, it’s high priced. Punch in options you get to average retail of $58k 

JD, I don't believe that the coach has any options that would increase the price significantly over base. Most of the stuff came standard on the 04 Diplomat except for the King bed.

Plus it needs a new set of six tires as stated in the description.


Air Dryer Keeps Failing
JohnC3

Hello Everyone, 

On my Class A (2008 Monaco Camelot 36PDQ) my Air dryer has developed leaks 4 times in less than a year. The 1st OEM (Wabco 006110500 1200 System Saver Air Dryer, Formerly Meritor R955205) started leaking from the regeneration valve in 01/21. We replaced the complete unit with one from amazon. It lasted 4 months and started leaking from the purge valve. We got a free replacement from Amazon and installed the replacement, That lasted about 6 weeks and started leaking from a pin in front of the front air hose. We then got a refund from Amazon and got Wabco OEM. That started leaking after 3 weeks before it started leaking from the regen valve.

I replaced all of these myself. These units are located about 2 ft from the engine on a separate mounting pillar. I understand that some units had issues with hoses overheating (some were mounted close to the engine and the hoses were 2-3 ft long). I don't believe mine is that type as it is about 7 ft long (Leaves the dryer travels back around a pillar and connects to what I assume is the compressor.)

I replaced all 3 units myself, and am wondering if I missed something in my unfamiliarity with air systems.  I unbolted the old units cleaned the threads on the fittings with threads and teflon tape on the fittings. Any thoughts? and Thanks for any help you can give.

20210917_110929.jpg


Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
Ivylog

Found 3 2004 Dynasties for that price or less… even a 06.


Air Bags
JohnC3

We had Conitech (sp?) air bags, and when we looked up the part number we found continental had a good cross reference list. 4 of the 5 manufactures were out of stock everywhere. So we went with Automann and ordered them from an outfit in PA  Stengel Brothers (www.stengelbros.net).

BTW, our bags LOOKED fine but several were leaking through the rubber (the shop took me out and showed me).

Found the replacements for ~1200 for 8 and then ($100/ea) to install at 75 service in Florida. REV Quoted me ~450/bag for the part.

Hope this helps,

 


Paint Girard awning cover
Ivylog

Pretty sure it’s aluminum…shouldn’t be that hard to repaint.


Loss of 12v.....NOT caused by a "salesman switch/solenoid"
D Nelson

My hope is to put my experience here so that it may save someone else the time I wasted looking, AND having to cancel a trip. It was a 20 minute fix... but took a solid 2 days of researching, tracing cables/wires, and checking voltages before I "stumbled" on to the fix.  Background... The coach is stored indoors connected to a 30amp service when not on the road. We were about to leave for a trip, and I had turned on the fridge to pre-cool before filling, and turned on a roof fan and opened a few windows because it was actually cooler outside than in. The next day (trip day), we take the cold items to put in the fridge, and find the coach completely dark. No house lights, no 12v to the dash, no fridge, no Gen. The only thing working is the 110v wall outlets, and the inverter. 99% of 12v loss posts/threads, on every message board, point to the "Salesman Switch/Solenoid". Mine had been bypassed. So, now I fall into the 1%. Which translates into less that 1% remaining applicable information. In checking voltage at the battery banks, I find the house at 13.2v and the chassis batteries at 8v. Keep in mind the house is charged by the inverter, which IS working. Since the chassis batteries were dead, I had them checked and they were good, but needed to be charged. Im puzzled by this because there is a maintainer, and the coach is on shore power. I charged the chassis batteries. I now have ignition and dash lights but engine will not turn over. I decide to work on one problem at a time.  I  start checking voltage at the rear power distribution bay. Im getting the same volts, as at the house battery bank. When I check the chassis side, I get multiple false voltage readings. In the power dist. bay, negative leads for both sides, come in between the 2 main disconnects, and are connected by a fused block.  The fuse is intact, and I was using it as the ground to check voltage at every terminal in the bay. The false readings prompted me to look in the direction of a ground issue. After tracing main cables and wires, front to back, I found no smoking gun. I took a piece of Romex and connected the ground wire directly to the chassis and touched the other end to the neg post of battery bank... all systems came up! A trip to the auto supply and about $15, 12v problem is"neutralized". But, the engine still will not turn over. 😠! After a short mental break,  I realized that when it wouldn't start before, I had tried to do a rear start... thinking it might be the ignition tumbler causing the start problem. I had left the switch set to "rear". Flipped to front and all is right with the world.  I spent a lot of time tracing bundles of cables and wires. Many of them are impossible to follow as they disappear behind frame and shields and have way too much excess. Its been my experience, grounding is the most common component of a 12v circuit to fail. I knew this, but overthinking the issue clouded my thought process. KISS(keep it simple-stupid)


Valid (power gear) air level--aux compressor
JohnC3

The Aux Compressor is controlled by a pressure switch that the pump plugs into. I believe this has power all the time. When the pressure drops (to 80 I believe) it activates and fills the ping tank (about 3/4 gallon) You could probably put an automotive 12v relay with the pressure switch to allow you to turn it off.

I just replaced mine a few months ago once I got the air leaks under control.


Air Bags
Ivylog

I bought one of the below to have as a spare 18 months ago… comes and goes on EBay but currently listed for $110 which is what I paid.

E49BE458-3BF6-48F3-BB9A-96EAB29A1949.png


Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
JDCrow
35 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

JD, I don't believe that the coach has any options that would increase the price significantly over base. Most of the stuff came standard on the 04 Diplomat except for the King bed.

Plus it needs a new set of six tires as stated in the description.

Ok, am I missing something on NADA where you enter the options? If you open it you select like full body paint, size generator etc


Valid (power gear) air level--aux compressor
Ivylog

My Navigator has a On/Off switch for it on the left console.


Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
Dr4Film

JD, you have to know what came standard on the coach and what was an added option that was included on top of the standard base price. NADA is confusing to use in that way. AFAIK the King Bed was a true option whereas generator, awnings, AC's & heaters, slide-outs, etc. are all standard equipment.


Air Dryer Keeps Failing
Ivylog

Well, the good news is , yours is easy to get to…. mine is next to the transmission. Doesn’t sound like you’re doing anything wrong with the installation.


Loss of 12v.....NOT caused by a "salesman switch/solenoid"
Dr4Film

Bad grounds are what cause many members headaches beyond comprehension. They seem to be one of the most posted about and causes for problems on this forum.

Some members have posted to check all grounds at least once a year for cleanliness and how secure they are.


Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
JDCrow
9 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

JD, you have know what came standard on the coach and what was an added option that was included on top of the standard base price. NADA is confusing to use in that way. AFAIK the King Bed was a true option whereas generator, awnings, AC's & heaters, slide-outs, etc. are all standard equipment.

Thanks, then it’s very easy to dupe a bank into loaning more than it worth? If tell them it has these “options” that we know came with it but they most likely won’t know. 

 

sorry Way off topic now. 


Air Dryer Keeps Failing
Bob Jones

Just a thought, and maybe off-base, but can you replace the entire unit with a different brand/design that does the same thing? My guess is the lines are probably a standard size. 


Anyone else going to the PreRally in Lewisburg?
Ivylog

Even though the GEAR FMCA rally was canceled, the pre rally was not canceled. Leaving in the morning.


Slide Sealant Caulking
Gary M
8 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Ok, Gary call's them plastic catch basin's.

I have no basin's or 's.

I do have 🍻's, but that's a story for another day!

Ok everybody!! Here is what I have found by talking to others about the so called CUP’S. I am adding a drawing based on touch and no site other than another post elsewhere that removed his bed in a 09 Diplomat. I’m still looking for that pic. Based on  little conversations with people who own 2008-2010 Knights and Diplomats, those years have them. Now mine was built in Oregon so maybe an Oregon thing. One of our members in Canada has the same coach as I, and if I remember correctly (CRS) he had the same issue. So my take on this is IF water gets past the Side or Top rubber seal, then it should get stopped by the so-called Dam (90 degree pc of plastic screwed and caulked sides and top of slide) water then should run down the side Dam, which is angled outward at the bottom to drip outside. But mine doesn’t extend far enough so it drips into catch basin (CUP) and then drips outside. BUT, if the (CUP) back side drops down, ie no support, then the CUP fills up and runneth over into coach. Ta da!!!            
So here is my sketch:

51EF967E-DCA1-4EC0-A7E1-61123C85A41D.jpeg


Loss of 12v.....NOT caused by a "salesman switch/solenoid"
just_john1

Cool post, glad you got it fixed and thanks for the information. I had my bus move at the storage place to do some work on it. I got a call saying it wouldn't start. I had to go to the storage area and figure it out. I just put in new batteries, so was confuse. The place had 3 guys working on it and nothing. All the switches were on. I looked at the rear start an it was switched to the rear. Flipped the switch and it started with maybe 2 revolutions. Had 3 embarrassed lot guys and a good laugh. Apparently one of the got switch happy.


Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
Gary M
2 hours ago, 6Wheels said:

2004 Diplomat 40PDQ for $80,000 in Irondale, Alabama

Diplomat 40PDQ RV for sale in Irondale, AL for $80,000 | 243968 (poprvs.com)

 

What things should I particularly need to check for?

Dang if I was in the mood to sell my 09 Knight. I’d sell $85k - $90k . Only 360 hp though.


Paint Girard awning cover
Gary M

I agree with Dick. Unless you want to disassemble and have it powder coated. $$$$$$


Air Bags
jacwjames

I ended up ordering 2 of the Conitech AS9376 from Truck and Trailer Parts.  Ordered on Saturday and delivered the next Wednesday.

I did have one on order from Truck Springs which said they were in stock on the website  but after I placed the order I got an email saying they wouldn't be shipped until late Oct (ya right).  So I canceled the order and placed an order from Truck and Trailer based on the recommendation of another member. 

I did take a bottle of soapy water and sprayed all the air bags and none were leaking and/or were there any signs of the rubber separating or cracking. 

So I'll carry 2 spares and probably have 3 fail at the same time🤬


Ride height linkage rubber end big cracks
Donflem

Thanks Dr4film


10k generator
Donflem

My rv shop has a  rebuilt 10 K generator for sale. I thought I’d throw it out there if anybody’s interested they can email me and I’ll give you his phone number. He wants $6000 and his shop rebuilt it.

Don

ibdlf2@aol.com


Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
Ivylog

Even though NADA prices have increased (1st time in 20 years I’ve been using) my max price is Low Retail without adding any options.


Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
Dr4Film
12 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

Even though NADA prices have increased (1st time in 20 years I’ve been using) my max price is Low Retail without adding any options.

I would dare say the less than Low Retail is probably a fair price for this coach but it still needs 6 new tires which will run on average another $4K-$5K. And that's not considering what else may need some attention.


Paint Girard awning cover
Hypoxia

I had them painted in Mexico.  Mine are Girard aluminum covers.


Another version of House batteries not charge while driving.....
jad050

Don't know how long this has not been working, we don't have any big coach loads while driving,  I have noticed that when I do plug in after driving the coach batteries are charging at a very high rate...  Finally realized the are not charging via the alternator...  I have an IRD isolator delay ( Intellitec p/n/ 00-00629-120), mounter in the circuit/fuse board in drivers side front bay.   3 wires attach this to the board   ignition source:blue, relay coil:red, ground: black...   Per the service manual for part, when the voltage on ignition line is above 13.5 volts for more than 20 seconds the relay red wire will be activated...   That never happens for me...    

After little metering here is what I believe my issue is:   The ignition wire only get to 13.1 volts,  I check the chassis power stud on board and voltage is 14.2 volts.  It appears my ignition switched voltage has a loss some where (had similar issue with headlight voltage)...  So isolator relay is not switch on to activate the relay in batter compartment..  Hs anyone seen this issue?  

I have 2 solution in mind.... 

A) add a simple relay that switches chassis power to isolator delay, triggered by ignition feed, thereby supplying 14+ volts when engine is running, which should trigger the isolator relay...  

I have also read about chassis batteries not charging while on shore/generator power...  A little research I found monaco did make a upgrade to the ird to make it a bird..  unfortunately that is no longer available....   So thinking a second solution 

B) Add intellitec B.I.R.D. diesel 2 (p/n 00-00839-000),  as well as simple relay above to get full chassis voltage to isolator delay.  by adding the coach battery input to this device I will have a full function bird...  The generator pin is not needed since this function is downstream on relay line (see below)

One thing I did discover in researching this is the FRB board also has a relay right below the ird.  This deactivates the relay line when the generator is running, preventing any conflict between who is commanding the charging.  interesting to note if this relay is failing and not switching off isolator relay, can cause the alternator warning light to flicker due to overcharge detection...  

Jim D
2005 Monaco Knight 38PST


Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
Chuck B
3 hours ago, JDCrow said:

Ok, am I missing something on NADA where you enter the options? If you open it you select like full body paint, size generator etc

As far as dealers are concerned, they do not enter the options when they use NADA pricing.  The wholesale cost is usually 20% less.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Ride height linkage rubber end big cracks
ok-rver

Top of link where rubber end, circled in picture, is bolted to lever of air height control valve .  Valve is to the left. rubber end at bottom of linkage (not shown) attaches to bracket on differential. This bracket is vertical, about 10" long and has 5 or so holes. The bolts thru the rubber end are shoulder bolts were the shoulder pulls up against the steel lever or bracket. the body of shoulder bolt is long enough that the sleeve inside the rubber end is free to rotate as the lever moves up and down with the body of the motorhome. This position is probably with the air bags deflated.

HRS air ride link at valve.JPG


05 Ambassador air bags
Gary 05 AMB DST

With all the talk about air bags and my desire to know what parts are needed, I can't find the information for the part number for the air bags on my 05 AMB. The 04-07 Endeavor platform should be the same. Thanks

Gary 05AMB DST


Another version of House batteries not charge while driving.....
Scotty Hutto

Jim,

check out this thread on replacing the IRD, Trombetta, etc. with a ML-ACR. 

Also this thread:
 

https://www.monacoers.org/topic/2798-preventing-duvac-alternator-problems/

 


Norcold tripping GFCI, heating element replacement, tool for twisting elements.
ok-rver

There are many out there that have already replaced there Norcold with a residential. THIS POST IS NOT FOR YOU.  This post is for those that for one or more of many different reasons have elected to continue using our Norcold. I am aware that this refrigerator has caused fires.

For the second time in the last 40 days, GFCI at our storage bay started tripping. This time, several to many minutes after the Norcold was turned on to 120v. About the only thing on the frig that would trip the GFCI is the heating elements. Our 1200 has two elements. Sure enough, the insulation at the entrance of the wires into the sheath were grounding out on the element closest to the outside wall. I was able to get under the element with a small pair of channel locks and twist the element within the boiler sleeve.  Rust buster on both elements.  I used sheet plastic and towels to keep the spray from the boiler insulation.  I did find that puddling a bit of the RB liquid in a cup and using a screw driver tip to carry a drop of liquid to the tube top was the most efficient way to get lube to flow down around the element. Probably the first time the element has been replaced as I had to cut the boiler insulation above the element. Finally got the element out. The back element does not have much room and it never turned. Electrical insulation on the back element was good so elected to leave in place for now.

Been thinking over the last few days of how to get in to rotate the element if(when) it has to be replace. I came up with the idea of cutting a notch in a socket that would accept the element and a racket could be used to apply leverage. Picture shows the element inside the slot cut in the socket. This has NOT been tested. I know there is room under the front element. I am pretty sure I can get under the back element. The socket was a cheap no name 13/16" 1/2" drive Taiwanese that I have no idea were it came from. Easy to carry in the tool box and will give it a try the next time someone needs to free up an element. When you are pulling an element, you probably have tested the element and know it is bad. There is a possibility that the contact with the slot will dimple the sheath of the element. If you get a chance to use something like this or have a better tool, let use know.

A washer inside the socket and a screw into a 2x4 did a good job of holding the socket in place while I ground.

HRS Norcold heat element wrench.JPG


Paint Girard awning cover
MHRookie

Thanks all.  


05 Ambassador air bags
Gary M

Try this company. Only pulled up shocks. They sell air springs, ride height controls, etc.

98025183-76D1-4E0B-B5AB-8B2D884FDB01.png


Air Dryer Keeps Failing
96 EVO

John, I'm pretty sure I replied to your thread on IRV2 with my experience so I won't bother repeating it.

Your dryer is mounted in the same location as mine, and while it's great for servicing, I still think it's mounted higher than it should be!

The manufacturer recommends a downhill slope on the feed line from the compressor. whether that could be causing us issues, I really don't know.


Another version of House batteries not charge while driving.....
vito.a

A great solution is the  Blue Sea Automatic Charging Relay. Everyone that has installed one says they are the best. It comes with a lifetime guarantee.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...a-434132500260


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