Ivan K Posted February 21, 2022 Share Posted February 21, 2022 (edited) I'd say that the shop that did the toe setting and messed your steering wheel position up should be responsible for fixing it, unless you are too far from them. They should have locked the steering wheel straight before setting the toe. Of course, that will require them to set both front wheels instead of just one, which is what they have probably done. Edited February 21, 2022 by Ivan K 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dl_racing427 Posted February 21, 2022 Share Posted February 21, 2022 48 minutes ago, RoadTripper2084 said: So to do that I'd have to remove the ball joint at the steering box end and try to get the the 25 year old rusty threads to turn where it attaches to the steering-box, correct? I don't think I'd be comfortable attempting that myself, and not really wanting to drop it back at the shop for another $500+ to have the do it. I think I'd rather just adjust the steering wheel position, which I should be able to do myself, and call it a day. 🙂 The threads are left hand on one end and right hand on the other. You don't remove the ball joint, you simply loosen the jam nuts at either end, and rotate the link to adjust it in or out. A quick test drive between adjustments will confirm the correct positioning. This is a part of a normal alignment, so if you had a shop do the job, just take it back to them to do it correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted February 21, 2022 Share Posted February 21, 2022 3 minutes ago, dl_racing427 said: The threads are left hand on one end and right hand on the other. You don't remove the ball joint, you simply loosen the jam nuts at either end, and rotate the link to adjust it in or out. A quick test drive between adjustments will confirm the correct positioning. This is a part of a normal alignment, so if you had a shop do the job, just take it back to them to do it correctly. Unless one end is crimped or welded. Either way, this can be easily corrected without shortcuts and the steering box kept centered. And they know it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Cole Posted February 21, 2022 Share Posted February 21, 2022 10 hours ago, dl_racing427 said: Agree with everything else you said. What I said about -/+ caster holds if one is backing up.😀 Thanks for the correction Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivylog Posted February 21, 2022 Share Posted February 21, 2022 (edited) 8 hours ago, Ivan K said: Unless one end is crimped or welded. Either way, this can be easily corrected without shortcuts and the steering box kept centered. And they know it. Actually they know more about it and as David explained above, there’s only one tie rod. Yes, IFS or rack and pinion suspensions have 2 so the toe can be set with the wheel centered but not with just one. Taking a pall joint out (not that easy or accurate) will usually damage the rubber boot plus you have to put it back in hoping you turned it the correct amount. Moving a steering wheel from 10 or 2 hasn’t changed the gear box center enough to worry about. Edited February 21, 2022 by Ivylog 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dl_racing427 Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 It still seems like it's just as easy to adjust the drag link as it is to remove and replace the steering wheel. Why not do it the right way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivylog Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 (edited) 43 minutes ago, dl_racing427 said: It still seems like it's just as easy to adjust the drag link as it is to remove and replace the steering wheel. Why not do it the right way? Only one end of the drag link is adjustable requiring removing the pressed fit tapered 3/4” bolt…obviously you’ve never tried to remove one that big. Also is one turn at a time enough or to much? Takes less than 5 minutes to remove the 1/4” bolt on the Ujoint to center. Edited February 22, 2022 by Ivylog 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoadTripper2084 Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 1 hour ago, dl_racing427 said: It still seems like it's just as easy to adjust the drag link as it is to remove and replace the steering wheel. Why not do it the right way? Well I know what you're saying, and in theory you are correct. But given that we're talking about a 25 year old link that is heavily corroded, I feel like that's a potential can of worms I'd rather leave sealed at this point. I'm not about to attempt adjusting that myself, and if I take it back to the shop I'm at best going to be $500 poorer and at worst they fubar something and I'm looking for a new drag-link, or maybe the wheel gets centred but the tracking goes to pot, etc. 1 hour ago, Ivylog said: Only one end of the drag link is adjustable requiring removing the pressed fit tapered 3/4” bolt…obviously you’ve never tried to remove one that big. Also is one turn at a time enough or to much? Takes less than 5 minutes to remove the 1/4” bolt on the Ujoint to center. My thinking exactly, the amount the wheel needs to move is minor, and this is a change I can accomplish myself. So, where does one find the bolt on the steering column, is it the one directly above the knuckle? I suppose it will be obvious once I get the cover off... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivylog Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 (edited) 1 hour ago, RoadTripper2084 said: suppose it will be obvious once I get the cover off... Yes, at the bottom of the steering column and agree a minor correction isn’t enough to worry about. NOW, if the whelk was more than 90 degrees off… yes it needs to be corrected some other way. Edited February 22, 2022 by Ivylog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wallis Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 I used to be an alignment tech. Any good wheel alignment should include centering the steering wheel. If the shop that did the work is any good they should take care of it for no additional charge. The steering wheel is centered on the steering box at the factory and that's important for several reasons. It will stay centered for life unless someone disassembles it and puts it back uncentered. Unless you can determine that it's not centered by one of the methods above, don't change it. The steering linkages under the vehicle are the proper way to center a steering wheel and in this case the drag link is probably it. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dl_racing427 Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 8 hours ago, Ivylog said: Only one end of the drag link is adjustable requiring removing the pressed fit tapered 3/4” bolt…obviously you’ve never tried to remove one that big. Also is one turn at a time enough or to much? Takes less than 5 minutes to remove the 1/4” bolt on the Ujoint to center. Never seen a drag link that needed to be disconnected to adjust. Either they have threaded ends on each end, or a dual threaded sleeve with a pinch bolt or jam nut. There needs to be a way to adjust it in small increments, not a full turn at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hypoxia Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 33 minutes ago, dl_racing427 said: Never seen a drag link that needed to be disconnected to adjust. Either they have threaded ends on each end, or a dual threaded sleeve with a pinch bolt or jam nut. There needs to be a way to adjust it in small increments, not a full turn at a time. Since the drag link has a specific shape to eliminate interference, the tie rod end is crimped on to insure it won't come loose and rotate. I split the sleeve on mine, replaced the ball joint and welded it back together. A machine shop could also replace the ball joint for much less $$ than a new drag link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoadTripper2084 Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 Okay, since everyone is so passionate about this issue 🙂, let's explore the "draglink adjustment" option a little further... My drag link is straight, doesn't have a kink, and both ball joints are removable, or at least they were 25 years ago when it was installed. So how would I go about adjusting it to move the steering wheel centre position back about 20deg? ..and given the corrosion on the threads, etc, would I even be able to, realistically? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wallis Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 If taking it back to the alignment shop and asking them to finish the job is not an option then here's how to adjust it: Start by spraying some penetrating oil on the threads. Loosen the lock nut on each end. One end has right hand threads and the other has left hand threads, you'll need to determine which is which in order to loosen them. Right hand threads lean towards the left at the top an and left hand to the right. I can't be sure from the photo but it looks like the steering box end is left hand. Once the lock nuts are backed off you can put a pipe wrench in the middle of the drag link and try to turn it. If it's very very stiff just move it a little in each direction going back and forth a little further each time. Once it's loose enough to turn you'll see that one direction lengthens it and the other direction shortens it enabling you to center the steering wheel. You may get it close while parked but the ultimate adjustment will require a road test for the final adjustment. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 As Tom says. I also clean the threads with a wire brush first, especially if shortening the link. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivylog Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 New and improved drag link end behind the tire… same on 04 Dynasty and 08 Navigator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dl_racing427 Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 4 hours ago, Tom Wallis said: If taking it back to the alignment shop and asking them to finish the job is not an option then here's how to adjust it: Start by spraying some penetrating oil on the threads. Loosen the lock nut on each end. One end has right hand threads and the other has left hand threads, you'll need to determine which is which in order to loosen them. Right hand threads lean towards the left at the top an and left hand to the right. I can't be sure from the photo but it looks like the steering box end is left hand. Once the lock nuts are backed off you can put a pipe wrench in the middle of the drag link and try to turn it. If it's very very stiff just move it a little in each direction going back and forth a little further each time. Once it's loose enough to turn you'll see that one direction lengthens it and the other direction shortens it enabling you to center the steering wheel. You may get it close while parked but the ultimate adjustment will require a road test for the final adjustment. Perfect explanation Tom. 😎 Also, this only affects steering wheel centering, so will not affect your toe adjustment. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ivan K Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 I find it unfortunate when they have to form the link to go around an obstacle. What exactly is in the way of yours? Mine is a straight shot with both ends threaded, just like Ken's. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Hutto Posted February 24, 2022 Share Posted February 24, 2022 On 9/21/2021 at 9:54 AM, McHughes said: To center the steering wheel on a Monaco you open up the plastic around the base of the steering column, remove the pinch bolt on the u-joint, drop it down, center the wheel, pull it up and re-insert the bolt. Takes about 10 minutes. That’s what I did on my 2006 Diplomat… and yes, I greased the zerk while it was open. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoadTripper2084 Posted May 4, 2022 Share Posted May 4, 2022 I finally got around to re-centering the wheel on our current trip. I'm glad I did it as I discovered that my u-joint on the steering column was attached about 1/4" down the fitting resulting in a noticeable amount of slack/slop in the connection. I attached it fully raised on the fitting and that removed the slop entirely. 🙂 So my wheel is centered AND has no play, which is fantastic. This might be something for others to check if they are still seeing a bit of slack in the wheel and can't explain it otherwise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Hutto Posted May 4, 2022 Share Posted May 4, 2022 Not to be Captain Obvious 😂, but the pinch bolt that holds the u-joint in place should go through that rounded grove in the splines. That’s what holds the u-joint in place and keeps it from slipping down the splines. IF the picture above is the “before”, your u-joint is actually 1-2” down and in danger of falling off the splines without the pinch bolt running through the groove. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg Carter Posted May 20, 2022 Share Posted May 20, 2022 Perhaps I’ve missed something but from previous alignment issues changing components like the tie rod you said was done can change the steering wheel position (assuming it was centred) changing settings of drag link or steering wheel position to me is kind of a band aid fix. i would be going back to the shop that changed the tie rod and get them to fix the toe settings to centre the wheel as that’s what got changed. cheers Sorry I guess I missed the page two reply’s as others have said the same things. all said a very good catch on the steering shaft u joint! cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Wallis Posted May 20, 2022 Share Posted May 20, 2022 The steering wheel should always be centered on the steering box. That's done by counting the stop to stop turns on the wheel return it half of that and then centering the steering wheel. That never needs to be done again unless the steering wheel or steering column are disconnected. After that the wheels are centered using linkage adjustments under the vehicle, typically the drag link. Doing it this way assures that the steering box is centered when you going straight down the road as it should be as well as having the steering wheel centered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoadTripper2084 Posted May 21, 2022 Share Posted May 21, 2022 On 5/4/2022 at 9:49 AM, Scotty Hutto said: Not to be Captain Obvious 😂, but the pinch bolt that holds the u-joint in place should go through that rounded grove in the splines. That’s what holds the u-joint in place and keeps it from slipping down the splines. IF the picture above is the “before”, your u-joint is actually 1-2” down and in danger of falling off the splines without the pinch bolt running through the groove. Lol. Correct you are! Sorry I should have been more explicit in my posting, that picture was taken after I remove the bolt. It's all good. Just completed a 3K mile trip without issues, very happy with the steering setup on my rig now. On a related note, my steering wheel has started to squeak from sort of under the horn area sometimes. I don't see any grease nipples in that area so not sure what I should be trying to lube to eliminate the squeak. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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