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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/552-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Let's Talk Oil . . . .
cbr046
Dash A/C vs MPG … Fact or Fiction?
trailmug
Re-clocking steering wheel
Dr4Film
Re-clocking steering wheel
McHughes
Let's Talk Oil . . . .
Dr4Film
Let's Talk Oil . . . .
PeterSchweizer
Re-clocking steering wheel
Mark B
New TPMS wanted
Dr4Film
New TPMS wanted
Roger S
Front Hydraulic Jack
Dale n Deb
Front Hydraulic Jack
Dr4Film
Front Hydraulic Jack
JDCrow
New TPMS wanted
Roger S
Re-clocking steering wheel
Gary M
Towing with the ISC
JetAburner
Front Hydraulic Jack
RNMCBR
Front Hydraulic Jack
Dale n Deb
Towing with the ISC
Dr4Film
Let's Talk Oil . . . .
MrAmbassador
Towing with the ISC
vito.a
Towing with the ISC
JetAburner
Towing with the ISC
Donflem
Let's Talk Oil . . . .
Ivan K
Towing with the ISC
JetAburner
Towing with the ISC
Dr4Film
Towing with the ISC
Donflem
Towing with the ISC
Dr4Film
Trailer Brake Controller Wiring
Tom Cherry
Auto Gen Start
miacasa_2000
Auto Gen Start
jacwjames
Let's Talk Oil . . . .
Admirial RVr
Auto Gen Start
Ivan K
New carpet or tile
mmartinhouse
Let's Talk Oil . . . .
Ray Davis
Re-clocking steering wheel
Skipjack
Re-clocking steering wheel
Dr4Film
Re-clocking steering wheel
Skipjack
Cut wire from steering column??
Skipjack
Towing with the ISC
Cubflyer
Front Hydraulic Jack
Paul A.
Towing with the ISC
JetAburner
Towing with the ISC
Cubflyer

New Posts

Let's Talk Oil . . . .
cbr046

Does anyone get samples and send them off for analysis?

- bob


Dash A/C vs MPG … Fact or Fiction?
trailmug

Yep, extra summertime propulsion engine fuel usage is from the fan. Compressor eats 5 max HP which is negligible. Now if you've got a side condenser a/c that runs the fan on high speed all the time, that would be tough to call. 


Re-clocking steering wheel
Dr4Film

When Josam's replaced my Sheppard Steering box with the TRW they removed the steering wheel and re-centered it correctly.

Not sure which steering wheel you have in your coach. Posting that information would help as all coaches are not the same.

I am going to assume you have the VIP Smart steering wheel.

You need to have a metric (can't remember which size) Allen wrench.

There is a hole in the driver's side portion bottom of the center cover where you insert the wrench at an angle to engage the metric Allen Head Bolt.

Loosen that bolt until the cover is loose enough to remove.

Remove the large nut holding the wheel to the threaded steering column shaft.

Now you need the appropriate sized and shape Steering Wheel Puller to attach to the steering wheel with the center pointed bolt positioned on the center of the main threaded shaft that holds the wheel.

Now start turning the center bolt of the puller until the steering wheel is free from the tapered shaft.

Reposition the steering wheel on the taper and start the nut that holds the wheel onto the steering column.

Make sure that the nut is torqued down to the proper specs before installing the cover. I am guessing around 50 ft/lbs.

 


Re-clocking steering wheel
McHughes

To center the steering wheel on a Monaco you open up the plastic around the base of the steering column, remove the pinch bolt on the u-joint, drop it down, center the wheel, pull it up and re-insert the bolt.  Takes about 10 minutes. 


Let's Talk Oil . . . .
Dr4Film

Synthetic oil for your engine AFAIAC is a waste of money.

Since going Part-Time RVing I don't put the miles on the coach as I was while Full-Timing. Therefore the oil gets changed once a year usually during the winter while in Florida. My shop uses Delo but I carry Valvoline Blue while traveling to add when needed.

I use Fleetguard secondary fuel filter, Racor Primary fuel filter, Fleetguard oil filter and Donaldson air filter.

I use Onan fuel & air filter for the generator and Racor fuel filter for the Aqua-Hot.

I don't use oil sampling.

I use synthetic oil in my Allison Transmission, front oil hubs and rear differential.

I use Dexron VI Synthetic oil in the Hydraulic reservoir for the Fan and Steering Box.


Let's Talk Oil . . . .
PeterSchweizer

Shell Rotella T4 10W-316322328276284370221166234974578.thumb.jpg.dd94a65cba23100d711e491ad019f318.jpg0  Engine oil for Diesels


Re-clocking steering wheel
Mark B

 

18 minutes ago, McHughes said:

To center the steering wheel on a Monaco you open up the plastic around the base of the steering column, remove the pinch bolt on the u-joint, drop it down, center the wheel, pull it up and re-insert the bolt.  Takes about 10 minutes. 

Mike McHughs is correct, easy and you don’t have to adjust linkage.


New TPMS wanted
Dr4Film

Balancing is a personal choice. Some say you don't need to balance rear duallies ever. I don't agree with that!

Then there are multiple methods for balancing RV tires. Those are - Static, off-coach Dynamic Spin, on-coach Dynamic Spin, Dyna Beads, Powder such as Equal or Counteract (stay away from these), BB's, Balance Masters & Centramatics.

I have used Dyna Beads in the past as they constantly keep the tire/wheel balanced regardless of mud & debris on the tire, plus any tire wear and any changes to the tire & wheel. I have since switched to Balance Masters on the rear as a new set of Dyna Beads + shipping were going to cost me about $100 less than the set of Balance Masters installed. When I have the front steers changed out next time I will have the Dyna Beads removed and a set of Balance Master installed on the front.

The Balance Masters have a lifetime warranty and can be transferred to other RV coaches with 22.5 wheels.

Do your due diligence and make your own decision.


New TPMS wanted
Roger S

Steve P,

I have Centramatic balancing rings on the steer axle wheels. They are essentially balancing beads of some sort in an oil-filled tube that mounts between the hub and the wheels. The general opinion seems to be that they are needed only on the front axle, but some have put them on all. The installation couldn’t be easier—remove the wheels, install the Centramatics, and put the wheels back on. 

How well they work is pretty subjective. I have never used balancing beads. I guess I just don’t like the idea of loose objects bouncing around inside the tire. I haven’t noticed any wheel shake since we got them, but couldn’t swear that I ever did.

We replace the tires at the rate of two every two years. The coach had Michelin 275-80R-22.5s when we bought it and we see no need to change. The new tires always go on the front axle, then rotated as a pair to the left rear duallys for two years and subsequently to the right for their two last years. That sequence keeps all of the tires on the coach for six years and rolling in the same direction—a little less that the often used rule of seven years total. Yes, the shop charges to move all six tires to different wheels, but my high school sweetheart of 53 years is definitely worth it. It give us both peace of mind.

Since I’ve already strayed somewhat off-topic, there is one more thing that I think is important to say, and I beg the patience of the moderators. I feel that I must mention the fact that last year we had Tyron bands (www.tyron-USA.com) mounted on the steer axle wheels. I had heard of them at our first annual Ramblin’ Pushers Maintenance Session in 2015. The event is located in the heart of the RV industry at the Elkhart County 4H Fairgrounds. The one-week event features a wide variety of seminars on topics of interest to a set of diesel pusher owners that includes Monaco diesel coach’s and offers on-site service by professionals. For details visit www.ramblinpushers.org for more information. Full Disclosure: I am the VP of the Ramblin’ Pushers and 2022 Maintenance Session Coordinator.

If anyone wants to pursue these topics further, (Centramatic Tyron, and the Ms), let’s start a new thread.

Roger Smalley 2006 HR Endeavor PDQ

 


Front Hydraulic Jack
Dale n Deb

Our front jack leaked hydraulic fluid and wouldn't go up. We ended up removing it in order to move to our next area. We only have one jack in front on our 2008 HR Endeavor. We have been calling around without any luck. Can these be repaired or do we have to buy a new one? It is a Power Gear with the numbers 501136 on one line and under that was 08031 P 230135. We are in Cheyenne tonight and then on to Colorado. Any suggestions are welcome.

0915211122.jpg

0915211122a.jpg


Front Hydraulic Jack
Dr4Film

You should be able to find a local hydraulic shop that will rebuild the ram and seals but if not then there is a shop in Cincinnati Ohio called Affordable Hose & Fittings that will rebuild it for you and ship it back to your location.

http://www.affordablehydraulics.com/


New TPMS wanted
Roger S

Dr4Film and I must have been taking our morning coffee at the same time. Nice to see that we agree on much!

Roger


How to access my water hose reel for repair on 07 Dip
Joelsheriff

My 07 Dip needs a new hose as well and I wanted to change the reel as well. I was told to cut open the panel and frame it out rather than try to remove the entire panel which is a bear. 


Re-clocking steering wheel
Gary M
58 minutes ago, McHughes said:

To center the steering wheel on a Monaco you open up the plastic around the base of the steering column, remove the pinch bolt on the u-joint, drop it down, center the wheel, pull it up and re-insert the bolt.  Takes about 10 minutes. 

Wow! Easy peasy. When I settle into my next spot, I will check it out. My steering wheel center is at 10 o’clock. Just a plain old steering wheel on mine.


Towing with the ISC
JetAburner

Hey guys, I'm  new to this and am really impressed with all of your knowledge and advise. Our new to us coach is a very nice low mileage '99 Windsor 40' with the ISC 330 equipped  with a Banks power pack tuned to 400hp. EGT tops at 1200 wot on a 5mi 6%er making 25lbs of boost. Coach drives and pulls hills great. In my former work, I owned big rigs with 525hp pulling 80k so I've been around that block. Question:  Will this coach comfortably pull an '02 F250 4x4 weighing in at 7300lbs. Coach is rated to tow 10,000. Doesn't have to rocket up the grades, but would like to see at least 45mph on a 6%er. Let the thoughts begin.  Thanks

 

 


Front Hydraulic Jack
RNMCBR

Dale,

It’s not a hard DIY job if you are inclined. Lippert’s web site has rebuild instructions and they sell kits that include seals, wear ring and a new gland for somewhat over $100. Alternatively, you can take the old seals to a hydraulic supply and they can match them up with new ones. If your rod and gland are not scored, that’s all the parts you need.  I did this with one of my rear jacks and it cost less than $20 for the parts. 
Roy


Front Hydraulic Jack
Dale n Deb

Thanks for all the suggestions. It will be a matter of us being in one spot long enough to get parts.


Towing with the ISC
Dr4Film

You are Flat-Towing 7300 lbs so your tongue weight will be negligible. 7300 lbs is well within the 10,000 lb hitch rating.

Having a diesel PLUS the added benefit of the Banks Power Pack, there won't be a highway grade that you can't climb. You may not get to the top the fastest but you WILL get there.

I have climbed grades from the west coast to the east coast and from Alaska to the Key's (LOL) and there wasn't one that I couldn't get over.

I also have the Banks Power Pack however, on my last trip to New Hampshire I think the Ottomind took a dump. I had to install the By-Pass Plug to continue on to my destination here on Ossipee Lake. Without the Banks Ottomind working I had no boost. It is now back to factory stock with the ByPass Plug. I still have to do some troubleshooting to see if the Ottomind is completely dead.

Do NOT pay any attention to speed while climbing grades. It's your RPM that you need to watch. Always try to keep your RPM's around the 2000 mark. That will give you the proper torque in your Cummins ISC so that you are not lugging the engine while climbing. Downshift manually to keep those RPM's at that level.


Let's Talk Oil . . . .
MrAmbassador

We use Rotella and Fleetguard filters for our Cummings. In my opinion synthetic for engine oil is a waste of money. I do not do oil analysis. We are full time and change oil and filters yearly. No problems. 


How to access my water hose reel for repair on 07 Dip
Scotty Hutto

On my 06 Dip I removed the panel in one piece. It’s a bit fiddley, because I had to reach behind it to disconnect the shower and water fill connections.  Most of what’s on that panel is just a few screws and maybe one connector. The only one I had an issue with was the panel with the water pump and light switches.  If you disconnect those wires, make sure you take a picture of the connections first.  
 

The panel itself must be flexed to remove it, but once you get the panel out, replacing the hose (or hose reel) is pretty straightforward. On mine, the gear was stripped, and since I had to pull the entire reel I went ahead and replaced the hose. 
 

it probably took me three hours total for removal, repair, and replace everything. That’s been about four years ago and everything still works fine. 
 

Here’s info on the replacement gear kit in case anyone needs that. 
 


 


Towing with the ISC
vito.a

The Banks Power Pack is a great addition to the ISC.  It should tow your truck just fine. 

Keep an eye on the coolant and trans temperatures when climbing hills on a hot day.  

 


Towing with the ISC
JetAburner

Great info. Thank you. I know that the smaller 8.3s are going to want more rpm than the big 14L Cummins we used to run. They liked to settle in at 1600. What kind of boost were you seeing before the Ottomans quit?

Gotta love spell check

Ottomind

Good to know re the Temps

Thanks


Towing with the ISC
Donflem

What is a banks power pack?


Let's Talk Oil . . . .
Ivan K

I use the same oil and the same lab every oil change and that way I have enough history to see if anything was getting out of whack. So far I would have been fine if I did not do it but I still like to know that my filters, seals and bearings are fine. Personal choice.


Towing with the ISC
JetAburner

It's a power upgrade that was offered by Banks for the ISC8.3. Consisted of an electronics package, turbo hot bowl replacement, and a gauge package with  boost and pyrometer. To my knowledge,  it's no longer available. 


Towing with the ISC
Dr4Film
2 minutes ago, Donflem said:

What is a banks power pack?

Don, it is no longer available. The company supplying Banks with the Ottomind stopped making them. But you can read about it here.

https://official.bankspower.com/magazine/powerpack/

14 minutes ago, JetAburner said:

Great info. Thank you. I know that the smaller 8.3s are going to want more rpm than the big 14L Cummins we used to run. They liked to settle in at 1600. What kind of boost were you seeing before the Ottomans quit?

Gotta love spell check

Ottomind

Good to know re the Temps

Thanks

When running stock my stock boost gauge would max out at about 24 lbs. After the Banks Power Pack install, the Banks Boost Gauge would provide about 32 lbs of boost. The stock gauge remained the same. Another Banks gauge which is extremely important is the EGT gauge when climbing grades.

Temps will always go up for the coolant and transmission when climbing grades.


Towing with the ISC
Donflem

I’ll check it out thanks Dr.


Towing with the ISC
Dr4Film
6 hours ago, Donflem said:

I’ll check it out thanks Dr.

I have to retract the post I made below. It appears that Banks has stopped making Power Pack or Stinger kits for any Cummins engines.

Banks still offers a Power Pack Bundle for the Cummins ISB.


Loss of 12v.....NOT caused by a "salesman switch/solenoid"
tcbrow

Thanks, is it a key switch?


Loss of 12v.....NOT caused by a "salesman switch/solenoid"
StephenW

It is a rocker switch with the words "Front" and "Rear" written next to it. 


Trailer Brake Controller Wiring
Tom Cherry
On 9/18/2021 at 1:04 PM, klcdenver said:

Thanks . Good info. I found the fuse blowed in the rear panel yesterday for the trailer charging. Never found the wire for the electric brake controller under the dash or side panel. I gave up and just ordered a Curt Echo RF wireless brake controller. 

There is a 5 wire pigtail with a 6 pin Molex connector under or behind the driver's left console or the "box" where all the switches are....OR it is pulled up under the left side of the steering column OR it is pulled up and is behind the dash.  Monaco put it in there.  You just have to find it.  There is NO BLUE WIRE up there.  It is part of the five white wires....and you would need the print (which I had but is in my MH now) that shows the connections).  

There may be several Molex connectors with nothing attached to them...but I THINK that the 6 wire pin is the only one of it's design...

TRUST ME....it is there.....many folks have had to look several times as Monaco put it whereever they wanted to. 

You MIGHT have to "FEEL" up inside, towards the top of the driver's console. For example, mine was buried on the floor in the middle of the console.  On another Camelot, the harness was pulled up on the dash side and was accessibe from the opening in the dash and was sort of "behind" the headlight switch...

 


Auto Gen Start
miacasa_2000

Never used this feature as of yet and I was wondering what parameters I should set to have the geny auto start while driving with my new to me residential fridge.  I first checked the basic settings and they were like my book as in Search sense: defeat,  auto LBCO: on, Bat Cap: 500amp, Bat type: liquid lead acid, charge rate: 100%, shore power: 30amp, external shunt: none, Fuel gauge cut out : 11.8 vdc 

That is my first question should I leave that at 11.8 volts?   Second question gen start at ? I put in 11.5 VDC is that too high?   Third question gen stop? I put 95% SOC  thinking that I would charge up higher before it quit and I started drawing off my Batteries again.

All this came about because I put in a residential fridge and on my shake down trip only got about 3 hr. before inverter alarm sounded so I just reached down and started the geny.  My batteries are getting a little long in the tooth and I will replace them soon but they still hold 12.5 specific gravity when my RC7-GS says there 100%  down a little I know but still up there. Which leads me to my fourth question Shouldn't my alternator be able to keep the house batteries up? This new dc inverter fridge use very little ac amps. The highest reading I got was 1.9 amps this of course without defrost or ice cube heaters on. ( this was read on the single wire hot leg at my on / off switch with my clamp meter. I'm not sure what 2 amps 120v ac relates to dc volt / amps being consumed by the inverter maybe that is too much for the alternator.

Thanks in advance

Roy  2003 Dynasty


Auto Gen Start
jacwjames

It sounds like your batteries are gone, I installed a new residential and with new batteries I can easily last the night.  I'll usually run the generator until I get 90% of charge and then when I wake up I still have 80% charge. 

This was provided to me by DR4film.  I have not needed to use AGS yet but have these settings if I decide to.

RC7-GS Remote Panel Programming


 

·       Search Sense              =     Defeat                                     

·       LBCO                          =     ON                                           

·       Battery Capacity        =     500 amp                                  

·       Battery Type              =     Liquid Lead Acid                      

·       Charge Rate                =     80%                                         

·       Set Shore Power         =     30 amps                                  

·       External Shunt            =     None                                       

·       Fuel gauge Cutout      =     11.8 VDC @ 0% SOC                 

·       Generator Start          =     12.0 or 12.2 VDC                            

·       Generator Stop           =     Auto Float                               

·       Generator Quiet Time =     23:59 & 00:01

 

You must set clock to military time for Auto Gen Start


Let's Talk Oil . . . .
Admirial RVr

I use Rotella and Fleetguard same as others on here. I look for Rotella when its on sale at Sams club. Do my own changes yearly. Covid has caused me to extend my regular scheduled oil change. Only have about 2K miles on this oil and 18 months but will be changing very soon. 


Auto Gen Start
Ivan K
31 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

It sounds like your batteries are gone, I installed a new residential and with new batteries I can easily last the night.  I'll usually run the generator until I get 90% of charge and then when I wake up I still have 80% charge. 

This was provided to me by DR4film.  I have not needed to use AGS yet but have these settings if I decide to.

RC7-GS Remote Panel Programming

 


 

·       Search Sense              =     Defeat                                     

 

·       LBCO                          =     ON                                           

 

·       Battery Capacity        =     500 amp                                  

 

·       Battery Type              =     Liquid Lead Acid                      

 

·       Charge Rate                =     80%                                         

 

·       Set Shore Power         =     30 amps                                  

 

·       External Shunt            =     None                                       

 

·       Fuel gauge Cutout      =     11.8 VDC @ 0% SOC                 

 

·       Generator Start          =     12.0 or 12.2 VDC                            

 

·       Generator Stop           =     Auto Float                               

 

·       Generator Quiet Time =     23:59 & 00:01

 

 

 

You must set clock to military time for Auto Gen Start

 

These are the settings I use too. Gen start at 11.5v is way too low, I expect the inverter to be long in alarm by then. When plugged in at home, I lower the Shore Power and charge rate to minimum. I don't use SOC values for anything because I don't trust them.


New carpet or tile
mmartinhouse

Had our carpet replaced with engineered wood by Ernie.........love it and would never go back to carpet.  He and his son do great work. You can see pics on their facebook pages of coaches they have done.

 


Let's Talk Oil . . . .
Ray Davis

Rotella 15w - 40    Wal-mart     no samples    no problems,  so far


Re-clocking steering wheel
Skipjack

thanks for all the great info.

I removed the cover from around the steering wheel, and it was exactly as described.

That is what I was thinking

IMG_1849.JPG

steering 3.jpg

steering 2.jpg


Re-clocking steering wheel
Dr4Film

While you were there did you happen to see any Zerks on the U-joint?

The column in some coaches have a couple of Zerks in that area which need to be lubricated periodically.


Re-clocking steering wheel
Skipjack

No sir, I did not see any


Wheel removal and jacking up the coach
Gary Cole

I don't know enough about this topic to even have an opinion. I somehow imagined that shock travel would be the limiting factor based on my equally limited experience with coil spring suspension systems. I have raised my rear wheels off the ground on numerous occasions apparently without consequence which included chaining up and parking on steep residential streets on occasion.


Cut wire from steering column??
Skipjack

Anyone know where I can get a wiring diagram for a 2003 HR Neptune?

I would think it is very similar to the Endeavor/Diplomat.

thanks


Towing with the ISC
Cubflyer

Are you guys running the Banks power pack systems still using the stock "lift pump" (that only runs for a few seconds at engine start)..??

 


Front Hydraulic Jack
Paul A.

Local shops that do field maintenance for construction equipment that require hydraulic cylinder service can do that repair/rebuild. 


Wheel removal and jacking up the coach
Ivan K
1 hour ago, Gary Cole said:

I don't know enough about this topic to even have an opinion. I somehow imagined that shock travel would be the limiting factor based on my equally limited experience with coil spring suspension systems. I have raised my rear wheels off the ground on numerous occasions apparently without consequence which included chaining up and parking on steep residential streets on occasion.

I believe that you are right about the shocks holding the weight at their full extension. I don't have jacks so I lift the axles.


2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
JDCrow

Awesome wife helped pull the wires. Also made good progress on the entry 

2498A500-190C-4BDD-9CE8-4B3CF7295C89.jpeg

AC294DF3-4721-4A9A-B716-27FEAE4013EE.jpeg


Towing with the ISC
JetAburner

I will be installing a FASS pump/filter system on mine asap. Also, I use Amsoil all-in-one fuel additive for lubrication in EVERY tank of fuel.


Towing with the ISC
Cubflyer

I'm not running any "extra power" but I had a leaking lift pump gasket and the first thing I did was bypass the original lift pump and install a "tap" for a pressure gauge in it's place, mounted and plumbed the FASS pump/filter at the original "primary fuel filter" location and installed a separate return fuel line to the tank.  I now can "see" the inlet pressure to the injector pump and the injector pump is running with inlet pressure rather than suction.... the FASS pump is providing 100% filtered and air free diesel fuel to the injector pump.  I believe it is the best thing I have done to assure solid engine performance.  I have made two round trips to Salt Lake City from Memphis area this summer with it running solid and strong. I can not imagine running extra power with the stock fuel system.

Ken


2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
Rikadoo

Hey JD, so i read you weee working on one of your buds 6.0 

as in Ford powerstroke 6.0? 

i been watching you working on your rv, an frankly i dont know how you do it. It seems like alot of what i have had to do on my rv has been a HUGE learning curve as well as having to go on to you tube to become cerified… being a retired mechanic i have many of the needed tools however not having a ground crew to do my running leaves me in the weeds in no time.


2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
JDCrow
8 minutes ago, Rikadoo said:

Hey JD, so i read you weee working on one of your buds 6.0 

as in Ford powerstroke 6.0? 

i been watching you working on your rv, an frankly i dont know how you do it. It seems like alot of what i have had to do on my rv has been a HUGE learning curve as well as having to go on to you tube to become cerified… being a retired mechanic i have many of the needed tools however not having a ground crew to do my running leaves me in the weeds in no time.

Yeah a 6.0 Powerstroke. My buddy has been looking for a new to him truck for a couple of years. This one popped up on CL. 1 owner, ordered direct from local dealer, every option Harley Davidson edition. It’s a 2005 with only 80k on the Odometer. 
 

Well it had been sitting to long and no amount of flushing would break through that Ford Gold coolant sludge. He did most the heavy stuff for the oil cooler change. We went from 40+ degree EOT vs ECT to 8-9 degree. 
 

He is on his way home to Yuma as we speak. 
 

While I had done a lot of work in my former 6.4 powerstroke (I have a 6.7 now), I’ll say the late great Diesel Tech Ron was our inspiration to tackle the job. His videos were nothing short of amazing. His down to earth style and the ability to speak to us, the common man, made him transcend his own death. 

I also have amazing staff at work that allows me to take a few days off to work on my projects. Without them I’d be a slave to our biz. 

Thanks for the kind words. 


2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
JDCrow

Here’s Ron teaching us a 6.0 oil cooler change, in the driveway and not the service bay at his job

 

 


Leaking flexible sink drain
Nevada Rob

The large flexible drain pipe in my 2008 Dynasty has  broken just behind the upper black ABS pipe. This is the connection to the ridge ABS pipe to accommodate the kitchen slide. I have read many post about how to repair the pipe. The crack in the pipe is right next to the threaded fitting so there is no way to cut out the bad section and use a barbed fitting and hose clamps. Replacing the pipe is not a problem. Getting it out is another issue. My question is how do you disconnect the trolley from the track? There are four plastic snap things that look like they would release the bolts from the wheels? There are 3 straps holding the pipe in place. I can not get to the screws holding those straps with the trolley in place on its track. The screws are in the top of the board as if the entire unit was assembled then put in place. Attached are a few pictures.

 

20210921_183436.jpg

20210921_183449.jpg

20210921_183420.jpg


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