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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/554-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
Steven P
TST tpms
Steven P
Let's Talk Oil . . . .
Ray Davis
Location of the Dash Annunciator
Hypoxia
TST tpms
ready2retire59
Re-clocking steering wheel
Gary M
unable to make sense of code
Mike in Va
Let's Talk Oil . . . .
Paul A.
unable to make sense of code
Dr4Film
unable to make sense of code
Mike in Va
unable to make sense of code
vito.a
unable to make sense of code
JDCrow
unable to make sense of code
Mike in Va
unable to make sense of code
Frank McElroy
unable to make sense of code
Mike in Va
Let's Talk Oil . . . .
Gary 05 AMB DST
Front electric shade adjustment?
Hypoxia
furnance sail switch
Gary 05 AMB DST
furnance sail switch
Rikadoo
Power Stearing Hose HELP!
tact50
Power Stearing Hose HELP!
JetAburner

New Posts

2004 ISC 8.3 Pacbrake Mechanical and electrical/air testing method
ok-rver

Thanks, will give it a try.


Is this a good buy? 2004 Dip
Steven P

Personally I think it's too high. Have you seen this listing?  Newer model w higher ceiling. 

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/276647470932044/


TST tpms
Steven P

Maybe the kit you see is for 8?  You can add bunches of them. Website says up to 110 sensors for multiple trailers. 


Let's Talk Oil . . . .
Ray Davis
13 hours ago, Paul A. said:

Thanks for the post. Gordy was a great guy and a regular contributor on this site.

I remember Gordy too,  great guy.    Is he out of RVing now?


Location of the Dash Annunciator
Hypoxia

Great find on the manual!  That needs to be added to the files section.


Wheel removal and jacking up the coach
Ray Davis
23 hours ago, cbr046 said:

And then there's wrasslin' a 100 lb tire.

Is that what they weigh?   When I wrestled with mine it felt really heavy,  maybe it's me getting weak.  LOL

I used a 3/4 breaker bar and a pipe for an extension,  since then I bought a multiplier.

I got the wheel just barely off the ground then used my hand truck / dolly to lift and ease the wheel off the studs,  reversed it all to reinstall.  Everything is pretty heavy.


TST tpms
ready2retire59

We have used the TST system since we bought our motorhome in 2005.  We are on our 3rd generation system and are very happy with its performance.  You can buy as many sensors as you need as Steven P says.  They are easy to program and they do monitor the tire temperature and pressure as they rise going down the road. 

Be sure to buy the latest version since the monitors are not upward/downward compatible.  The sensors will work with either monitor, but if you have an older monitor, it will display errors when a new version monitor comes in range.  This happened to me several times with the older monitor when I was parked and when going down the road.  The company explained that the newer monitor would cause this problem and their only solution was for me to buy a newer monitor.  After much complaining about how can you design a new monitor that is not downward compatible with your previous model, I broke down and spent the less than $100 for a new monitor.  I'm glad I did and everything is working fine now.

Tony & Doreen Chiulli

'03 Windsor, '05 Ram Toad

 


Re-clocking steering wheel
Gary M
12 hours ago, Gary Cole said:

Interesting post. I'm thinking that whether or not your steering wheel is centered when driving down the road is a good indicator of the general health of your suspension and alignment state. Mine is still perfectly centered at 41000 miles so maybe I'll worry about something else taking a dump for a while. 🙂

When I bought my (DW) coach, the first thing I did was have the alignment checked, only because my previous coach I bought and drove 450 mi and tires were almost bald on one side. For whatever reason I did not pay attention to current steering wheel till someone brought the subject up. Must be the OTD in my old age.


Wheel removal and jacking up the coach
Steve P
3 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

Is that what they weigh?   When I wrestled with mine it felt really heavy,  maybe it's me getting weak.  LOL

I used a 3/4 breaker bar and a pipe for an extension,  since then I bought a multiplier.

I got the wheel just barely off the ground then used my hand truck / dolly to lift and ease the wheel off the studs,  reversed it all to reinstall.  Everything is pretty heavy.

I've already met my quota for hernia surgeries... I'll leave the fun stuff to a tire store or truck stop and someone 20 years younger than me! 


Dash A/C vs MPG … Fact or Fiction?
Joe Lee

Hahahahha!  Great comments!


Dash A/C vs MPG … Fact or Fiction?
Dr4Film
On 9/20/2021 at 10:41 PM, We2dynasty said:

We have a 350 hp cummins and when we run the dash air it does not affect fuel consumption at all.  When we run the roof air off the generator, there is a noticeable drop in mileage. Ed 2000 Monaco Dynasty

My SilverLeaf calculates miles per gallon used versus miles per tank. I always fill tank if close to the halfway mark especially if we are stopping for the night.


Dash A/C vs MPG … Fact or Fiction?
Joe Lee

Thank you!  Appreciate the comments. 


unable to make sense of code
Mike in Va

I used a code reader on my 2001 Holiday Rambler ambassador with a 5.7 cummins and allision 2100m trans. The problem is I can't make heads or tails on how to read the code. It came from under the 128 ecu. It reads PID384FM12. Under PID384 it says : Component specific request paramenter. Under PM12 it says :Data erratic, intermittent or incorrect. Not sure where to start looking to correct the problem. My Check trans and low coolant light has come on. With the light on the trans temps go up above 200 quick. When light isn't on trans temp runs 160 tp 170. This code seems to be causing my low water light as well. Thanks for the help.


Let's Talk Oil . . . .
Paul A.
5 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

I remember Gordy too,  great guy.    Is he out of RVing now?

Ray, I don't know. Have not seen him post here for some time. 

I would love to volunteer with a group on this site to "upate" membership, if possible.  Using members email addresses could be a "start".


Extensive facelift, paint, and new electronics for a 2000 Monaco Diplomat
Paul A.
14 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:

Rick,

For my front camera, I plan to mount exactly as John did. By removing my TV, I can access the back of the front cap. I have replaced marker lights and broken a wire in the process, plus fished speaker cables through the front cap, so I know the drill there. The camera cable will come to the driver side A pillar and down under the dash.

My “brain” will be mounted in the dash where I already have a factory access panel.  I currently have a video multiplexer there, so already have power, grounds, etc to that point. 

My 10” monitor is already dash mounted with a Ram mount bar that also holds my TPMS and Garmin 780  

95336188-A162-44B7-9620-F8EA0A266378.thumb.jpeg.d2c4adef78ccfd102871c4cab8526b5f.jpeg
 

The rear camera will be mounted as John’s, except I don’t have the vent on top, so I’ll use a cable plate as in his pictures. 

That brings me to the side cameras…. I want to mount them mid-ship, but can’t quite picture how that would work on a slide. While the ability to see clearly when the slides are open is a great security feature, my primary focus is blind spot elimination when driving. My mid-point is about 12” behind my curbside slide, and about 24” behind my roadside slide. My only issue is an “elegant” way to get the cables to the roof. If I mount them just below the beltline, I think that will be optimum for the viewing angle, but right now I don’t see a way to do that on the curbside without an exposed cable. On the roadside I can punch through to the refrigerator vent, up, and out, just as John did. I have a residential reefer, so heat isn’t an issue there. 

Cables will come across the roof, and down through the drivers side A pillar. I have an existing hole and plate there where the previous owner ran satellite cables. If I can come up with an “elegant” way to get the camera cable to the roof on the curbside,I’ll be ready to go.  Right now my best idea is use eternabond tape to secure the cable/sleeve where it goes over the roof radius, but the thought of that white stripe doesn’t sit well. 

Any ideas or suggestions appreciated…
 

 

Isn't that "pillar" called a "J" pillar?  Or, Maybe be it's different for different coach models. 


unable to make sense of code
Dr4Film

You most likely need to convert that code to a Cummins Insite Computer Code to make any sense from it. 


unable to make sense of code
Mike in Va

Thanks DR4Film. Is that available on any website I could check? 


unable to make sense of code
vito.a

Just a maybe.  Some of the new diesel coolants are not compatible with the older coolant level sensors.  Our Windsor had a round aluminum rod in the top of the coolant overflow tank with one wire attached.  After we replaced the coolant I had to periodically remove the sensor and clean it with WD40 and a Scotchbrite pad.  


unable to make sense of code
JDCrow
10 minutes ago, vito.a said:

Just a maybe.  Some of the new diesel coolants are not compatible with the older coolant level sensors.  Our Windsor had a round aluminum rod in the top of the coolant overflow tank with one wire attached.  After we replaced the coolant I had to periodically remove the sensor and clean it with WD40 and a Scotchbrite pad.  

When I bought a new tank, I had to update the sensor. Don’t know if this helps. I also am running OAT orange Now. 


unable to make sense of code
Mike in Va

I checked the wires, one had 12 volts and the other had a good ground. I used a new sensor, put the end of it into a container of water and plugged it into the system. The low water light continue to stay on. I back fed the signal by putting a paper clip into the plug and the light stayed on. Taking the MH to a shop on tuesday that can put their scanners on it and hopefully find my problem. I believe that when its say and done it will be a loss wire or a dirty connecter. Trying to save a trip to the shop.          


Front electric shade adjustment?
Ivylog

Running out of projects. Center privacy shade is not level…one side lower than the other. How do you adjust/equalize?

Couldn’t find a previous post.

1A4BB870-EDB6-42C7-9F78-1E70E207BB48.jpeg


unable to make sense of code
Frank McElroy

Mike, you need to map the code 384-12 over to a specific Cummins fault code for your engine.  Sometimes you can find a web site that might have a pdf file with the code conversions.  Generic code readers rarely will give you a specific Cummins fault code.  Cummins Insite software will give you the specific fault code.

Your other option is to use the Cummins QuickServe site, register for free, enter your engine serial number and explore the Cummins fault codes specific to your engine.  You should be able to find the specific Cummins code that maps over to 384-12 and how to troubleshoot that fault.


unable to make sense of code
Mike in Va

Thanks for that info Frank. I have one honey do, cut grass, to complete then I will try what u outlined. 


Extensive facelift, paint, and new electronics for a 2000 Monaco Diplomat
waterskier_1
2 hours ago, Paul A. said:

Isn't that "pillar" called a "J" pillar?  Or, Maybe be it's different for different coach models. 

Never heard of "J" pillar.   https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pillar_(car)


Let's Talk Oil . . . .
Gary 05 AMB DST

I remember this just like it was yesterday, "25,000 miles Between Oil Changes" read the cover of Popular Science in 1975. Mobil One was just going to be introduced. That sold me right there. I've been a user in my autos ever since (except for the smoking station wagon). Mobil One never advertised that potential because I'm sure the auto manufacturers didn't want their buyers to see it, so Mobil One pushed the 5000 mile recommended oil change. The behind the scenes talk was that synthetic oil could lubricate forever but the filter would have to be changed to keep the oil clean. Then lately I started seeing Mobil One with 10,000 miles and 20,000 miles between oil changes. I actually called Mobil and supposedly talked to an engineer and asked why they don't advertise the 25,000 miles between changes and he denied that they have ever recommended 25,000 miles between changes. I mentioned the magazine cover but he said that was never true. I'm sure the magazine article was older then he was. I know it wasn't advertised so he never knew about it. I was shocked when I saw David state that Mobil One gave in and started adding petroleum distillate base stock to their product. I see Mobil One has a Advanced Full Synthetic and a Fully Synthetic oil. I think the Fully Synthetic is a real synthetic, it costs $15+ per quart at Grainger, $24.37 for 5 qt bottle on Amazon. This destroys my true synthetic theory. I always use a Mobil One filter.

Gary 05 AMB DST


furnance sail switch
Gary 05 AMB DST

My furnace cycles 3 times then shuts off. The blower is working, I think it is the sail switch. There is a reset/off switch on the sail switch piece. How do I pull the sail switch out to clean it. I can't pull the sail out of the blower housing, afraid I may break something, This has happened once before years ago at the ramblinpushers rally and the Atwood Rep did a simple procedure but I don't remember what. I don't know how to search the site for any previous posts.

Gary 05 AMB DST


Extensive facelift, paint, and new electronics for a 2000 Monaco Diplomat
Paul A.
3 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

Never heard of "J" pillar.   https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pillar_(car)

Many techs used that to describe the vertical pillar directly adjacent to the "side" end of the windshield.  


furnance sail switch
Rikadoo

You Tube it


Power Stearing Hose HELP!
tact50

My son and I have discovered in our 1994 Monoco Dynasty that there is a fluid leak coming  from the power steering hose  #IC40710  (diagnosed at Cummins) who did not have time to fix it. They sent us down the road ( in Milwaukee, Wi) to Truck Country. They are having trouble finding the part (hose).  They mentioned maybe the trouble they are having finding the hose is ours in NOT a freightlinner chassis. I believe we have a RoadMaster chassis, and don't know how to help them track down this much needed hose            (Part# IC40710 )We are hoping for suggestions or ideas?!     My email address is tact50@gmail.com or my phone numbers are 414-232-6380 or 414-332-3322 if appropriate. My name is Ted. Thank you.


Extensive facelift, paint, and new electronics for a 2000 Monaco Diplomat
Scotty Hutto
9 hours ago, Paul A. said:

Isn't that "pillar" called a "J" pillar?  Or, Maybe be it's different for different coach models. 

Might be??  I always called it an A pillar, but I don’t even recall where I got that from. 


Power Stearing Hose HELP!
JetAburner

If you can locate a hydraulic supply shop, they should be able to make one. That's how we did it on big rigs all the time. Should be one in Milwaukee. 


New Downloads Available

Actia Gauges Manual and Tips Navigator 2006
Actia Gauges Manual and Tips Navigator 2006
Owners manual and tips for the instrument gauges in 2006 Holiday Rambler Navigator. May also be for other years.
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