IOTA have listened

[Grampy OG]

On 10/18/2021 at 6:03 AM, tmw188 said:

I completed my install of the Surge Guard 41260 TS yesterday. I used the ferrules and crimping tool that was mentioned from Grampy OG and was very pleased with the all wire connections because of using this method. The tool could of been another two inches longer for for more leverage however. Hard area to work in on my 02 Windsor. Removed the tray slide to gain much better access, that’s a must. Installed a receptacle on the shore power inlet to plug my Hughes AF into. I have that worry off my plate now. My old IOTA looked absolutely fine but I will say this, it has been only a couple of months since I inspected it and checked all the wires connections and they didn’t seem as tight as I left them. I need to secure my AF and tidy up some cabling. 

 

 

 

 

 

Looks great. Kudos on getting the extra receptacles installed! It looks like if you ever need to pull your invertor it should be fairly easy. Mine is hanging from the ceiling of my biggest bay and I will probably need a floor jack to supported it to pull it down. 

Ken

 

[FishAR]

I changed the iota out yesterday morning for a lyght esco  lpt50brd. I was not impressed with the innards of the lpt50brd at all. I tightened all the terminals at least 6 times, they would be tight and then I'd go back and check and not tight.

My iota was spotless and looked like new inside but I heeded the warnings.

I have a question about chassis ground? No instructions with the lpt50brd at all. My iota didn't have a chassis ground although there was a place for it so I guess it isn't needed?

[tmw188]

I completed my IOTA replacement a couple mo ago, mine did have a ground. Are you sure you just didn’t push it out of the way and then didn’t see it? Mine was a solid maybe 8ga wire covered with a black wire loom. BTW my old IOTA too looked perfect inside and I too heeded the warning. Maybe try some type of loctite (Not Red) on the threads. I bought the tool and sleeves mentioned in this thread and tightened mine to the 45in lbs the TS I used recommended. 

[Dr4Film]

It appears that you are not getting a good enough clamp on the stranded wires used in the 6 gauge wire end. You need to torqued those down REALLY tight! My ESCO Lyght Transfer switch has been in use 19 years now without a glitch. I never had to deal with an IOTA Transfer switch and so glad that I didn't have one.

The ESCO switches are bullet proof. You can't go wrong.

[tmw188]

If it’s a new end cut on the wires they are probably compressing and settling in. I gotta tell you the 45in lbs I torqued too seemed excessively tight when I did the first one, so I checked the prewired ones and my wrenched clicked on them too so they were at least 45in lbs as well. Very tight, you will not get them tight enough with a screw driver. Harbor Freight has that small torque wrench, if not use a 1/4” drive ratchet if your afraid of using a 3/8” drive. 

[FishAR]

38 minutes ago, tmw188 said:

I completed my IOTA replacement a couple mo ago, mine did have a ground. Are you sure you just didn’t push it out of the way and then didn’t see it? Mine was a solid maybe 8ga wire covered with a black wire loom. BTW my old IOTA too looked perfect inside and I too heeded the warning. Maybe try some type of loctite (Not Red) on the threads. I bought the tool and sleeves mentioned in this thread and tightened mine to the 45in lbs the TS I used recommended. 

No, there was no chassis ground hooked up to the iota. I saw the lug inside where one went, it was marked. 

 

There were however 16 screws through the top of the iota into the basement ceiling. I figured that someone must have got fired the day before for not putting enough screws in the transfer switch or something, it was ridiculous.

[tmw188]

It should be grounded.

[Rikadoo]

Mornin everyone, so i was reading about how todd had to go over the tightning sequence a couple times. I discovered as mine achieved torque i would recheck the torque 2 more times (mechanic trick) an some were solid, some the screw would make a crack sound and turn a small bit, i spoke with my certified electrican friend he said get some “noalok” he said remove each screw, remove the wire, then coat the screw hole, run the screw in an out a couple times, coat the wire, reinstall cinch the the screw 2 or 3 times against the wire then torque. I did all that an i found now the screw an torque moved smooth as butter an torqued soooo easy. So then i ran the the generator and ran everything in the coach for 30 min, ( i even used my digital thermal heat gun) to monitor wire an connector temps. The ambient temp was 77 degree, the connectors and wires never went over 82 degrees.

so then i shut it all down an recheced torque, not one of them moved. The whole effort took the better half of 2 hrs (i highly recommend the use of a gardning pad to save your prayer bones) also the reason i sought my friends advise was last year i started a new annual procedure where every year i will retorque wiring connections and this year i found some loose an others made that loud CRACK noise, and acting like the screw was binding. Im hoping that next near will give me better results. This noalok says it improves connection between different metel combonations, and i was told be neat with it cause it will conduct. So i used several q tips to spread the stuff an when they started to fray i would throw it away an use a fresh one. I took several pics before and did one side at a time. With my camera i was able to focus on some of the connectors, you can see how the connectors were  gouged Or scarred from the wire, which explanes the loose connections over time,  In the pic you can see some of the excess i had on the connections, when i was all done with one side i went back an cleaned it all up. They sell this (Amazon) in a couple different size amounts, i bought the 8oz size not knowing what i would use… theres enough left to do 50 or more mh🤦‍♂️.

 

[tmw188]

I believe that was FishAR that had to go back and retighten his. 

Edited November 26, 2021 by tmw188

[tmw188]

Why are your sharing that neutral lug in the photo? 

Edited November 26, 2021 by tmw188
wording