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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/558-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Brake(s) air pressure low…
Gwarsh
Is tire upgrade possible
Ivylog
Brake(s) air pressure low…
lake49068
Brake(s) air pressure low…
Gwarsh
Brake(s) air pressure low…
lake49068
IOTA have listened
Grampy OG
IOTA have listened
Dr4Film
IOTA have listened
Scotty Hutto
Let's Talk Oil . . . .
Bjohnsonmn
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
MHRookie
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
vanwill52
Fantastic vent questions
vanwill52
Brake(s) air pressure low…
planodp
Brake(s) air pressure low…
Gwarsh
Is tire upgrade possible
David Pratt
IOTA have listened
Rikadoo
Drivers side rear slide won’t come out
bobdinsmore
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
vanwill52
Is tire upgrade possible
Paul A.
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
Perry Paul
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
vanwill52
IOTA have listened
Grampy OG
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
Perry Paul
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
jacwjames
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
Scotty Hutto
Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
Ivylog
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
jacwjames
Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
Dear LaserWorks
Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
Gary 05 AMB DST
Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
vito.a
Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
JDCrow
Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
Dear LaserWorks
Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
Ivylog
Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
Dear LaserWorks
Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
Andrew Sibley
Drivers foot carpet
Rikadoo
Drivers foot carpet
vito.a
Drivers foot carpet
Rikadoo
Electric entry steps
Lolo1034
Electric entry steps
Wrayj1
Electric entry steps
bbralph

New Posts

Brake(s) air pressure low…
Gwarsh

All, huge thank-you for all of your suggestions, I sincerely appreciate it!

Today we’re in Moscow IA, and we have an appointment the “mothership” of HWH.  (having our leveling and slides “checked-out”). Tomorrow… I’ll start digging into the low air pressure on the brakes again (I’ll post my findings as I come across them)


Is tire upgrade possible
Ivylog
4 hours ago, David Pratt said:

Steers are at 115 psi, Drive axle tires are at 105 psi

 and Tag axle tires are at 95 psi

So working backwards your steer are 18,500, drive 24,000, and tag 15,500… more or less. So the tag is probably putting 3,000 lbs on the steers so the drive is legal at 24,000. Time to put the tag in front of the drive like they were years ago.


Brake(s) air pressure low…
lake49068

Had a a similar problem...turned out to be the brake air chambers.  Rubber diaphragms had deteriorated.  2005 date codes inside chambers on a 2010 Neptune assembled in 2009.  Parts readily available and not too complex a repair.  A rear one was bad, changed out all 4 in the interest of safety and peace of mind.

Adam

 

 

 


Brake(s) air pressure low…
Gwarsh

Adam,

Do you recall where you purchased the replacement rubber diaphragm(s) from… ?

 

thanks


Brake(s) air pressure low…
lake49068

On the shelf at NAPA and the guy who did the repair visually knew the brand and style/model so he did the ordering.  Standard med/heavy duty truck part.

Adam


IOTA have listened
Grampy OG

"IOTA have listened" or "I ought to have listened"

Having read numerous posts about the IOTA transfer switch I was constantly checking my connections and all seemed well. Unfortunately checking didn't mean anything. I returned home to find no power and upon tracing the problems I found a burnt shore power plug and upon following that found the burnt out IOTA. 

Initially I replaced the unit with the ATF that is often recommended by other Monacoers (LPT50BRD 50 Amp Automatic Transfer Switch). After completing the install I just wasn't happy with switch. I felt the terminal strips were cheap and that the Philips head screws didn't supply enough torque for my satisfaction. 

I pulled it all out and replace the unit with a Technology Research (41260 Surge Guard 50 Amp Automatic Transfer Switch. A much more heavy duty unit with huge transfer switches and Allen head bolts for the terminal connections. I also added ferrules to all of the 6 gauge wiring for added strength. 

Since everything was apart and expend I took another step and hardwired a 50amp  receptacle between the shore power and the transfer switch. I can now plug in my Progressive and Hughes Autoformer inside my electrical bay and no longer have to hang the mess from the shore power pole. I know that Progressive makes an inline suppressor but since they replaced my fried unit at no charge I wasn't about to pop another $400 for an inline mode. The benefit of this is that the equipment is locked in a weather tight bay and is secure from theft. An added benefit is if I blow the transfer switch I can just unplug the Progressive and plug the transfer switch into the receptacle and off I go. 

Lesson learned, if you still have an IOTA get rid of it. 

Ken

Burned Switch 2.jpeg

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IOTA have listened
Dr4Film

Wow, you really dodged a bullet!

No truer words are better spoken than from someone who is lucky enough to have "dodged a bullet". Yet I am positive that there are still members here that have IOTA transfer switches installed in their coaches. It's just a matter of time for them, not IF but WHEN.

Hopefully, they will also discover it before any MAJOR damage has been done or worse yet a complete loss of coach along with surrounding collateral damage.

Great job on the installation! Looks clean and well thought out. What baffles me is why Monaco combined water and electric in the same bay.


IOTA have listened
Scotty Hutto

What an elegant solution for the surge protector!  Innovation at it’s best. 


Let's Talk Oil . . . .
Bjohnsonmn
On 9/21/2021 at 9:01 AM, PeterSchweizer said:

Shell Rotella T4 10W-316322328276284370221166234974578.thumb.jpg.dd94a65cba23100d711e491ad019f318.jpg0  Engine oil for Diesels

For some levity...

Every time I see someone mention Shell Rotella, all I can think of is the cheesy Velveeta, sausage, and Rotel dip we have at family functions! Doesn't work as well with the Shell stuff mixed in  🙂


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
MHRookie

Vanwill52 or jacwjames,

     With this upgrade… it’s not going to change the charging functions of the Xantrex RG7 invertor/charger will it?  There is no concern of boiling batteries is there?  Just making sure since it “connects itself” when a charge source is present.

     You’ve both left your solar panel hooked up as factory also?

i’ve already bought the unit, just waiting to get home and prepare for install.

thanks,

Mhrookie

     


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
vanwill52
2 minutes ago, MHRookie said:

Vanwill52 or jacwjames,

     With this upgrade… it’s not going to change the charging functions of the Xantrex RG7 invertor/charger will it?  There is no concern of boiling batteries is there?  Just making sure since it “connects itself” when a charge source is present.

     You’ve both left your solar panel hooked up as factory also?

i’ve already bought the unit, just waiting to get home and prepare for install.

thanks,

Mhrookie

     

To my knowledge, the ML-ACR installation does not affect anything about the inverter/charger or any Automatic Generator Start features.  You are no more prone to "boiling batteries" than you were before installation.  I have about 1000 AH of battery power in (8) oversized 6 volt batteries.  I use much less water after installing the "Water Miser" extra-height cell caps.  When my coach is sitting for a month, it barely takes any distilled water at all.

Be prepared to make (or have made) and additional 4/0 cable or two.


Fantastic vent questions
vanwill52

Be aware that the remotes offered by Dometic for Fantastic Fan do not have multiple codes available.  Any remote operates any fan.  PITA when two fans are located in proximity to one another, since it is virtually impossible not to operate both fans at once.  Mine were bought shortly after Dometic acquired Fantastic Fan, and multiply-coded remotes may be available, but knowing Dometic...probably not.

Dometic is on its way to replacing Lippert as the designer and builder of the poorest quality products available.  Customer support is all but non-existent.


Brake(s) air pressure low…
planodp

Gwarsh, how long did you have to wait till you got a appointment with HWH?


Brake(s) air pressure low…
Gwarsh

I’m at HWH, Moscow IA, right now.  They said… the wait is about 2-weeks.

 

FWIW - HWH people are very, very nice, accommodating and welcoming!


Is tire upgrade possible
David Pratt

I have to make a correction about the travel weight on my ih-45. Fat fingers are to blame and my actual  travel weight is 53,000 lbs+/-.

The Foretravel ih-45 does not have a straight axle instead has IFS(Independent Front Suspension) and is rated at 21,000GAWR. The Drive Axle is rated at 23,000GAWR and the Tag Axle is rated at 14,000GAWR. The total coach weight is 58,000GAWR and 78,000GCWR, Front axle weight is +/_ 19,000GAWR, Drive axle is +/- 21,000GAWR and the Tag axle is at +/- 13,000.

I do not have to make any manual adjustments to the air in the tag axle for any weight transfer because the Active Air System continuously Monitors and Adjusts the air pressure in each air bag for any load or weight shift and keeps the coach fairly well balanced under all conditions.  


IOTA have listened
Rikadoo

Wow that is a CLEAN looking install, i have been looking at the transfere switchs on amazon, several different models of the same thing with different prices. So as i see it the differences is the level of software that controls it? Or is it the surge protection? 
One more thing you said if you blow the transfere switch you can just unplug the progressive an just plug the switch directly into the recptical an off you go? Did you mean if you blow the progressive you can plug the switch in directly an keep going?

i ask cause i still have a IOTA that im going to replace an use in line with my big dog.


Drivers side rear slide won’t come out
bobdinsmore

bob, it sounds like you have the PowerGear system (electric motor driving a rack) and may have sheared the roll pin or broken the motor casing.

Here is a YouTube on finding a replacement motor if one is needed.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPqxShbcEpg   Motors cost a fortune! My casing was cracked, not damaged as badly as this one so I reinforced it with JBWeld and left a c-clamp permanently in place so it would not torque the mounting bosses off.

You manually can move the slide in and out with a 1" wrench on the square shaft. All of this is accessible from the storage bay under slide. 

It's a real pain to replace a sheared roll pin if you have to do that. The pins are located in the gears that engage the rack.


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
Jim Bob

Have been following this thread for a while now and had plans to do the ML ACR swap on my 95.  I just returned from a week of camping at the Bristol NASCAR race and noticed my house batts were no performing all that well.  Once I got home and inspected I had two cables that had become a little bit loose.  So I fixed those, but the batts are fairly old and not sure they are going to recover.  I'm now investigating switching to Lithium iron.  I currently have 4 6v with 75 AH each, so my rudimentary knowledge of batteries tells me I have about 150 AH available to me.  An upgrade to Lithium could get me about 200 AH for slightly more money, but they are supposed to last for 10 years.  The money seems to make sense, but the real advantage is the faster recharge rate compared to FLA.  I switched out my inverter and it has a lithium setting so I think that will work.  So, finally a question.... felt like you needed some background.  If I install the ML ACR and have lithium house batteries and FLA chassis batteries is the ML ACR "smart" enough to know not to charge the FLA batteries to fast?  Is there something else I should do if I go with the ML ACR and Lithium house batts? 

Thanks in advance.

Jim


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
vanwill52
17 minutes ago, Jim Bob said:

Have been following this thread for a while now and had plans to do the ML ACR swap on my 95.  I just returned from a week of camping at the Bristol NASCAR race and noticed my house batts were no performing all that well.  Once I got home and inspected I had two cables that had become a little bit loose.  So I fixed those, but the batts are fairly old and not sure they are going to recover.  I'm now investigating switching to Lithium iron.  I currently have 4 6v with 75 AH each, so my rudimentary knowledge of batteries tells me I have about 150 AH available to me.  An upgrade to Lithium could get me about 200 AH for slightly more money, but they are supposed to last for 10 years.  The money seems to make sense, but the real advantage is the faster recharge rate compared to FLA.  I switched out my inverter and it has a lithium setting so I think that will work.  So, finally a question.... felt like you needed some background.  If I install the ML ACR and have lithium house batteries and FLA chassis batteries is the ML ACR "smart" enough to know not to charge the FLA batteries to fast?  Is there something else I should do if I go with the ML ACR and Lithium house batts? 

Thanks in advance.

Jim

No, the ML-ACR is not a "smart device" in that sense.  Its electronics only control whether or not it combines battery banks based on available charging source.  There are BLM devices sold by many lithium battery sources that accomplish the function you are seeking.


Is tire upgrade possible
Paul A.
4 hours ago, Ivylog said:

So working backwards your steer are 18,500, drive 24,000, and tag 15,500… more or less. So the tag is probably putting 3,000 lbs on the steers so the drive is legal at 24,000. Time to put the tag in front of the drive like they were years ago.

Just an F Y I on TAG axles VS PUSHER AXLES;  

What is the difference between a tag axle and a pusher axle?
 
“Whereas a tag axle is located behind the drive axles to take some of the weight off the rear drive axles when the vehicle is fully loaded, a pusher axle is positioned in front of the drive axles, adding stability to the chassis during cornering,” 
That's why you see Pusher axles on QUAD axle dump trucks. 

Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
Jim Bob

I've looked at the Li BIM 225, but now I'm confused as to how and where it would be placed in the wiring set up.  Do I still use the ML ACR and the Li BIM 225?  I suppose I could use only the ML ACR and manually separate the house and chassis batts when I need to recharge the house only?  I also think I'll check with the inverter manufacturer and see what their recommendation would be.  Thanks Van.


Drivers side rear slide won’t come out
96 EVO

Which coach? What year?


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
Perry Paul

Hi Van,

You asked what rig I have, it’s a 99 Monaco Executive with the 10k genny and M11 engine. No slides

Looking at your pix, is the lambert charger green and looks like a smaller SSI? 

I don’t think I have a BIRD or IRD that I can find so I should be good. 

Thanks again! 
Perry


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
vanwill52
19 minutes ago, Perry Paul said:

Hi Van,

You asked what rig I have, it’s a 99 Monaco Executive with the 10k genny and M11 engine. No slides

Looking at your pix, is the lambert charger green and looks like a smaller SSI? 

I don’t think I have a BIRD or IRD that I can find so I should be good. 

Thanks again! 
Perry

Yes, Lambert charger is green.


IOTA have listened
Grampy OG
2 hours ago, Rikadoo said:

Wow that is a CLEAN looking install, i have been looking at the transfere switchs on amazon, several different models of the same thing with different prices. So as i see it the differences is the level of software that controls it? Or is it the surge protection? 
One more thing you said if you blow the transfere switch you can just unplug the progressive an just plug the switch directly into the recptical an off you go? Did you mean if you blow the progressive you can plug the switch in directly an keep going?

i ask cause i still have a IOTA that im going to replace an use in line with my big dog.

Sorry I mistyped. If the Progressive blows I can unhook it and plug the transfer switch straight into shore power. The 50amp receptacle is actually at the end of my shore power cord. In most installs that cord would be hardwired into the transfer switch alongside the generator input feed. I elected to put the receptacle at the end of the shore power cable and then I hardwired a molded 50amp plug into the transfer switch. The plug was a nice clean find as they are already made and MOLDED and readily available at HD/Lowes. They are sold as 50amp-6gauge stove plugs. 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-6-ft-50-Amp-4-Prong-Range-Power-Cord-HD-575-052/100672796?MERCH=REC-_-searchViewed-_-NA-_-100672796-_-N

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-50-Amp-Single-Surface-Mounted-Single-Outlet-Black-R20-55050-P00/311373554

 

The plug on my shore power was burned up in the mess so I put a temporary 50amp replacement plug on just so that I could get power. I am not a fan of replacement plugs in environments where they will receive lots of pulling, tugging, weather etc. When time permitted I cut the plug back off and using another HD molded plug I used 6gauge but connectors to splice the new plug onto my shore power cord. Whew crimping those isn't for the feint of heart. I staggered each connector so as to not create bulk in the line. Each connection was wrapped in heavy duty heat shrink tape. I then put 3 layers of heat shrink tape over the entire splice. It is pretty d*** strong now and I feel comfortable with it. A replacement cord from Glendenning would have been to the tune of $300+ dollars. A few more pictures to complete the rebuild. 

BTW: Don't forget to add heat shrink tubes before you butt connect or you get to start over - duh for me - 

Thanks for the compliments and support,

Ken 

PXL_20210913_155736187.jpg

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Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
Perry Paul

Ok that makes sense. Thank you 


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
jacwjames

A little late in answering but the ML-ARC is simply a switching device the combines both the chassis and house batteries.  It can be left in automatic, which will combine both bank if it senses a charging source, which could be the inverter (powered by either shore or generator) or the alternator.  It can also be operated manually and left off or on.  Adding the switch at the dash provides convenience

I have solar that charges both banks of batteries.  z

I was also considering lithium batteries but decided to hold off for now.  From my understanding the lithium requires a higher charging voltage and has the potential of overloading the alternator.  There would have to be some other controllers installed to accomodate lithium and at this point I'm not interested in going that route.  


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
Jim Bob

No worries Jim J.

The more I've explored the Lithium the better they sound to me.  Particularly the much quicker charge time they have versus the lead acid battery.  However, they do seem to complicate things.  I've emailed the inverter/charger manufacturer to see what they have to say regarding mixing the two types.  At this point, I think I could make the ML ACR work by using the manual switch to disconnect the chassis when I need to just charge the house batts.  Would just end up being a more manual process than an automated one, but will see what they say.


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
Scotty Hutto
On 9/19/2021 at 10:53 AM, Scotty Hutto said:

Looking at the schematics, it appears I could use the white wire to connect to the remote switch that comes with the ML-ACR. The purple “voltage sensing” wire to the IRD could be run up from the FRB and used for the LED.  I would need to add +12v and ground from the front run bay (directly below the switch).

Follow-up…

Upon further investigation, the white wire going to the Trombetta is a ground and does not go all the way to the front run bay (FRB). The purple wire does make it to the FRB, but after going through two connectors (one of which ties to a relay tied to the IRD), it changes to a purple/black wire by the time it arrives at the Battery Boost switch.

Upon further consideration I plan to run new wiring for the ML-ACR. Since I must run new wire to have full functionality of the ML-ACR switch, I plan to run a 4 or 5 conductor cable from the battery bay to the FRB, have a few extra wires on that route, and leave the existing wiring intact.


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
Ivylog

In another post I mentioned I’d built 600AH of Lithium batteries for $1200 plus 15 hours of my time making them price competitive to AGMs but 5X the life.

Searched AliExpress and found 8-280AH cells for $358…560AH of batteries for probably $500…90 cents/AH. Today I searched again and found 8-310AH cells for $346. Add $84 for 2 BMS (200A is big enough) and $50 in cables… 620AH for $580…91 cents making them  as cheap as lead/acid but probably 10X the life. Sorry but the address I copied for the cells did not paste but searching the Ali site you should be able to find them.

Below is a 8 month old Video on making your own batteries. A BMS that requires soldering the cables on is only $40.

 

 

 

C998F7F2-AD1F-4172-91A0-6B4715A2AA9D.png


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
jacwjames

That's what I did, no harder to run 5 then 1. 

I had actually installed a 3/4" conduit to run the fuel pressure wire and was able to pull a 5 conductor cable through it. 


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
Dear LaserWorks

Just be sure you know what you are getting. We would only purchase cells that are guaranteed to be both "New" and "Grade A". Also, we are avoiding 300Ah or higher as those seem to bulge for everyone when fully charged. Shipping costs from China have gone through the roof as well and may not recover until 2023.


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
Gary 05 AMB DST

I had no idea what the movie was talking about. To keep the MH and myself in the same era that it was built, I am sticking with lead acid batteries.

Gary 05 AMB DST


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
vito.a

Dick, thanks for posting.  What BMS did you use?

I think we are just seeing the first of many price reductions on LiFePO4 cells.  

 

David, if you watch the Will Prowse YouTube videos he tests some "B" grade cells with very good results.  The problem is within a few days after his video is published the price skyrockets or they run out of stock.  


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
JDCrow
24 minutes ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

I had no idea what the movie was talking about. To keep the MH and myself in the same era that it was built, I am sticking with lead acid batteries.

Gary 05 AMB DST

All depends on your next adventure. Loads of coaches never wander off the pavement or become untethered from 50 Amp service. The Genset takes care of lots of power questions

Just a new tool in the box for some. I went lithium, I’m just not as adventurous (yet) to build my own 


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
Dear LaserWorks
5 minutes ago, vito.a said:

David, if you watch the Will Prowse YouTube videos he tests some "B" grade cells with very good results.  The problem is within a few days after his video is published the price skyrockets or they run out of stock.  

Vito, yeah, I've watched way too many of his videos. 🙂 He's in a league of his own for sure. I'm mostly wary of winding up with used cells, really, more than grade B. There are sellers that stock Grade A, new, in the US for immediate shipping. It's not cheap, but still less than half the cost of Battleborn, and no waiting for your ship to come in, literally, from China.


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
Ivylog

I figure nothing ventured, nothing gained… finally got payment confirmation of the 310AH cells.

Vito, I don’t need a WiFi smart BMS so one that requires some soldering.  I did but a monitoring system (below) and will buy another one when I DIY these cells.

AiLi Voltmeter Ammeter Voltage Current Meter Voltmeter Ammeter 100V 350A Caravan RV Motorhome 999 AH
8-80V,0-350A
Purchased 1x.Last purchased on May 19, 2021
AiLi Voltmeter Ammeter Voltage Current Meter Voltmeter Ammeter 100V 350A Caravan RV Motorhome 999 AH
$44.00$44.00

Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
Dear LaserWorks
2 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

I figure nothing ventured, nothing gained… finally got payment confirmation of the 310AH cells.

 

Not a lot to lose, for sure, relatively. Please keep us posted on the cells, seller, shipping time, etc. Thanks!


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
Ivylog
52 minutes ago, Dear LaserWorks said:

Not a lot to lose, for sure, relatively. Please keep us posted on the cells, seller, shipping time, etc. Thanks!

Supposedly 30 days… will see and post. Building your own battery is not that hard and even if your charger doesn’t have a Lithium profile, using a AGM setting will get you to 90%. 
 

Agree if you are a 50 amp to 50 amp CG person going Lithium, even at lead/acid prices is probably not worth the DIF effort although like AGM, corrosion is not a issue.


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
Andrew Sibley

I don't know much about this but am interested in trying this.  In checking that website, it seems like prices for 310 ah cells are all over the board.  I think I saw one option for 8 grade A cells for $280.  Maybe I'm looking wrong. Perhaps someone can try again to get a link that works because maybe I'm missing something.


Drivers foot carpet
Rikadoo

Im looking for the carpet that goes below where the drivers feet rest. I am going to try to get this one fixed, but just in case i need to replace it i thought  someone here might know where to find one.DB998789-0B77-455B-ADB3-82A12C210EFB.thumb.jpeg.4af1aec12e47db036f61bc4cf24db259.jpeg


Drivers foot carpet
vito.a

Buy a piece of carpet and cut it out using the old one as a pattern.  Then take it to the carpet shop and have binding sewn around the edge.  They can even add the rubber pad it you want.  


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
cbr046

I'm not impressed with the dry-as-a-bone FLA batts that came with our coach.  I'll milk them as long as I can but when they won't last a night I'll consider Lithium if the price was competitive.  Getting the BMS right and not melting the alternator are key concerns.  

- bob


Drivers foot carpet
Rikadoo

Thank you Vito, yea i gave that a thought, plus taking this one to a upholsterer to have a piece sewn on the bottom to keep it from bunching up on me, thats when i just thought for that would be involved doing that it seemed easier to see if they were available somewhere… i was just kinda coppin out.


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
Ivylog

I have 880 AH of AGMs and will run the generator for an hour in the morning before getting on the road. That still puts a good load on the Alternator so I put a remote temperature probe on it. Unfortunately I cannot monitor charging amps from the drivers seat, just voltage, but 185 is the highest temp I’ve seen in a engine compartment that runs 280 degrees. 
I’m not going to use a DC-DC buffer to start with and if the alternator doesn’t get hotter than 195 charging the Lithiums, I will not add one. 


Electric entry steps
Lolo1034

Hi all,

I have a 2006 Monaco Cayman.  Electric entry doors got damaged 🤯and I’m needing to replace them.  Anyone know a business place that sells these? 
 

thank you,

Lolo


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
JDCrow
57 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

I'm not impressed with the dry-as-a-bone FLA batts that came with our coach.  I'll milk them as long as I can but when they won't last a night I'll consider Lithium if the price was competitive.  Getting the BMS right and not melting the alternator are key concerns.  

- bob

 

57 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

I'm not impressed with the dry-as-a-bone FLA batts that came with our coach.  I'll milk them as long as I can but when they won't last a night I'll consider Lithium if the price was competitive.  Getting the BMS right and not melting the alternator are key concerns.  

- bob

Ditched the Bird when I went lithium and got a DC/DC Victron which can be monitored. The battery I picked up can take 100 Amps on. After watching the Victron video on YouTube of frying alternators, I was sold, but I guess that’s the point of the video LOL 


Electric entry steps
Wrayj1

Google it you might find a deal.  I replaced mine on my 2007 Holidsy Rambler Endeavor, around $1000.


Help Needed! 2009 Monaco Dynasty Nottingham IV Driving Light Diagram
bbralph

Everyone, 

Thank you for taking the time to read this post.  I am new to this forum today.  I was advised to post on this site for help finding the diagrams needed.  I have a 2009 Monaco Dynasty Nottingham IV.  One of my headlights was not working, so I took it to a local RV dealership to have them check it out.  They took it to a local chassis shop to have the headlight fixed.  When it came out of that shop, nothing worked...no headlights, running lights or tail lights.  They took it back to that shop to have them fix what they messed up.  After a couple of days, that shop said they didn't know what they did to cause everything to quit working and we were on our own to figure it out.  The RV repair shop then took it to another chassis shop, Florida Detroit Diesel in Panama City.  This shop is willing to work on the coach, but they are in need of the wiring diagrams to trace down the wiring.  Apparently, wires were cut and spliced under the front, and they want to make sure wires are connected correctly.

If anyone has these diagrams, it would be greatly appreciated.  Thank You.


Electric entry steps
bbralph

I had to replace the entry step on my 2009 Dynasty and was able to find a huge selection on Lippert components.

https://www.lci1.com

 

 


OMG.....What did I get myself into?
Flyinhy

Hi all, 

I'm a new owner of an 2001 executive 43ds. A 500hp cummins with an Allison 6spd. She's in decent shape for her age but I have to be honest. When it comes to electrical.....I'm not the greatest but I'm willing to learn.  I bought her to use as a second home while I'm out on job sites working instead of renting an apartment. Plus, I hope to one day retire and I wanted to travel......a win win right? Wrong!!

I'm an old mechanic and I can understand schematics (somewhat) ....

The coach cranks and runs fine.....but she's not charging. I took the alternator off ...a 200 amp leece neville.  Had it rebuilt and reinstalled it......nothing. I watched the man bench test this alternator and I know it's working like it should. What am I missing? I know this will be a working project but I didn't realize I would run into something the first week that made me scratch my head and say....huh?  I've been reading a lot of posts on here and I'm sure someone knows what I doing wrong. 


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
Dear LaserWorks
49 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

I have 880 AH of AGMs and will run the generator for an hour in the morning before getting on the road. That still puts a good load on the Alternator so I put a remote temperature probe on it. Unfortunately I cannot monitor charging amps from the drivers seat, just voltage, but 185 is the highest temp I’ve seen in a engine compartment that runs 280 degrees. 
I’m not going to use a DC-DC buffer to start with and if the alternator doesn’t get hotter than 195 charging the Lithiums, I will not add one. 

One good way to protect your alternator is to replace your solenoid with a LiFePO4 Battery Isolation Manager (BIM) for $175.

https://battlebornbatteries.com/product/lifepo4-battery-isolation-manager/

Click on the "Features" tab & you'll see how it cycles ON/OFF to prevent your alternator from overheating.

"Under normal charging conditions, the BIM will connect for 15 minutes every 35 minutes. That means that the BIM will connect for 15 minutes, disconnect for 20 minutes, and repeat this cycle until the coach battery is charged."


OMG.....What did I get myself into?
waterskier_1

If it worked on the test fixture, then it has to be wiring or sojourn connected to the wire that is bad.  I was going to ask if you took pictures before removal,  but if it didn't work before,  there is no guarantee it was wired correctly when you got it.  Do you have a wiring diagram for the alternator? Besides the large cables, you should have three smaller wires, often gray, yellow & red.   Is that what you have? 


OMG.....What did I get myself into?
Dwight Lindsey

Charles:

What makes you think it's not charging? I guess you are not seeing voltage on the dash gauge . . . but the gauge could be the problem. Have you put a clamp on ammeter on the cable from the alternator?

Have you put a volt meter on the battery when the engine is running?

Dwight


OMG.....What did I get myself into?
xdieselbob

The small wire has to have twelve volts when the key is on to excite the regulator in alternator.

 


OMG.....What did I get myself into?
Flyinhy
6 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:

If it worked on the test fixture, then it has to be wiring or sojourn connected to the wire that is bad.  I was going to ask if you took pictures before removal,  but if it didn't work before,  there is no guarantee it was wired correctly when you got it.  Do you have a wiring diagram for the alternator? Besides the large cables, you should have three smaller wires, often gray, yellow & red.   Is that what you have? 

Yes.....that's her. I used my fluke to test while she was running with wires connected and without. Nothing. 

Yellow was on remote, gray was on the ground and red positive. 

I have every piece of literature of every component in this coach. 2 sets of schematics. I see where they're are the three posts but I don't understand how they work. 

21 minutes ago, Dwight Lindsey said:

Charles:

What makes you think it's not charging? I guess you are not seeing voltage on the dash gauge . . . but the gauge could be the problem. Have you put a clamp on ammeter on the cable from the alternator?

Have you put a volt meter on the battery when the engine is running?

Dwight

Yes...the fault light was on on the dash which made me think....no problem. I'll check the alternator and have it rebuilt if it isn't working. Brand new interstate house batteries and 31a screw tops for the chassis. The previous owner passed away and she's been sitting for a while....how long? I'm not sure.


Excessive dash/front movement
BradHend

I have a very new to me ‘05 Monaco Cayman that does exactly that as well. I Mentioned it to the seller while test driving and he just kinda shrugged his shoulders and said “ya, it’s an old coach, and it flexes”. He didn’t seem too concerned about it.  I’d be interested to know if others experience that or not as well.  
Mine is fine on normal roadways, but negotiating larger uneven turns and what not it makes me want to remove that piece of trim that covers the windshield frame to dash.  sounds terrible. 


IOTA have listened
Rikadoo

Hey Grampy i have a question, where does your power ENTER the coach? Is there a recepticel on the outside that has like a twist lock plug or ??? Mine comes in thru a large extension cord to the inside of the cabnit, uses a twist lock that other end goes to the IOTA. Just trying to visulise how to stream line my electric…


OMG.....What did I get myself into?
Flyinhy
55 minutes ago, Dwight Lindsey said:

Charles:

What makes you think it's not charging? I guess you are not seeing voltage on the dash gauge . . . but the gauge could be the problem. Have you put a clamp on ammeter on the cable from the alternator?

Have you put a volt meter on the battery when the engine is running?

Dwight

I hooked up all the wires back the way they were when they came off. I used my fluke meter to check at batteries while it was running and I also checked on the back of the alternator itself while it was running. LN-2824LC-2.jpg.36d980aad13a05c914b24a278037cbcb.jpg

1 hour ago, waterskier_1 said:

If it worked on the test fixture, then it has to be wiring or sojourn connected to the wire that is bad.  I was going to ask if you took pictures before removal,  but if it didn't work before,  there is no guarantee it was wired correctly when you got it.  Do you have a wiring diagram for the alternator? Besides the large cables, you should have three smaller wires, often gray, yellow & red.   Is that what you have? 

192695196_DUVACsystem-LeeceNevilleorDelcoRemy.jpg.e3dbea456feab85a2c75223c7ca923b3.jpg


Drivers foot carpet
Nevada Rob

You can have mine if it will fit.


OMG.....What did I get myself into?
waterskier_1

Here is a diagram of how Monaco connected the Alternator.  The Red wire goes to the Chassis Battery Positive (or a terminal strip or circuit breaker connected to the Chassis Battery Positive).  This is the Remote Sense for battery voltage that controls the output voltage of the alternator.  The Yellow wire goes to the Ignition terminal strip which is +12 VDC ONLY when the key is on.  Make sure there is no voltage on this when the key is OFF.  The excites (turns on) the Alternator.  The Gray wire is connected to one of the AC Taps on the alternator and serves two purposes.  First, it drives the ALT-FAIL Relay and indicator.  Second, it drives the Tach in many coaches.  Hope this helps.

Alternator Wiring1.jpg


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