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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/559-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

IOTA have listened
Dr4Film
Brake(s) air pressure low…
Dr4Film
OMG.....What did I get myself into?
Bob Wightman
OMG.....What did I get myself into?
jacwjames
Electric entry steps
RVKnight
IOTA have listened
RNMCBR
Engine/Trans Temps High Again
Gary M
Is tire upgrade possible
96 EVO
Key Fob Functions
Hypoxia
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
waterskier_1
Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
Ivylog
Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
waterskier_1
Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
Ivylog
Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
waterskier_1
OMG.....What did I get myself into?
waterskier_1
Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
waterskier_1
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
jacwjames
OMG.....What did I get myself into?
Dwight Lindsey
IOTA have listened
Grampy OG
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
vanwill52
Charging problem???
Mike in Va
Drivers foot carpet
IlliniCathy
Charging problem???
Dr4Film

New Posts

Help Needed! 2009 Monaco Dynasty Nottingham IV Driving Light Diagram
Jim Bob

Found this under downloads.  Check and see if that is what you need.

Jim


IOTA have listened
Dr4Film

To each their own but that's not how I would have repaired the Plug End of the 50 amp shore power cord which gets a lot of handling and abuse. Shrink Tubing will not hold up like the thick SOOW casing that came on the cord originally.

I hope it works for you for all of the trouble that you went through to accomplish your objective.

BTW, I have successfully used those CAMCO replacement 50 amp plugs on extension cords and Pedestal/Power Testers that I build and sell. It's just a matter of the method of assembly and waterproofing.

Good luck and safe travels.


Brake(s) air pressure low…
Dr4Film

Those Brake Air Chambers are readily available at most truck repair shops. I had to replace one on a rear wheel in northern British Columbia as the tow truck driver attempting to Cage the rear brakes before towing was only able to do one side. The other side had an internal problem and wasn't able to Cage the brakes on that side.

The front wheels only have an Service Air Brake Chamber whereas the rear wheels have a combination of a Service Brake & Spring Air Brake Chamber.

 

Hv-s08 T30 Service Brake Chamber For Heavy Duty Truck - Buy T30 Brake  Chamber,Service Brake Chamber,T30 Single Chamber Product on Alibaba.com

Trucks: How does an air brake work? - Quora


OMG.....What did I get myself into?
Bob Wightman

I had almost the same problem on my 2004 Monaco Knight with a 300HP Cummings when I bought it almost a year ago.  I bought it knowing it had a bad alternator, took it directly to a shop and had it changed along with all the belts and hoses and everything else maintenance related that nobody had done during its lifetime.  On the ride home the alternator light came on again and I could tell from the volt gauge that the battery voltage was depleting, made it home ok.  Being really good with electrical and pretty good mechanical (and since the shop that repaired it was 4 hours away) if dug into it and i found a few things that might help you.  First on the wiring at the alternator there are two fuses in a weatherproof rubber box on the wires...both were blown, replaced both and still no luck but they did not blow again.  Long story shorter I determined that the wire from the dash to the alternator had a short in it somewhere (never could find out where) so I cut the wire loose at the dash (the wires are marked on the individual wire jacket) and cut the charge wire off before the fuse, ran a new wire from the front to the back under the coach and connected them together and it has worked fine ever since.  A lot of work and not easy, and something I doubt that the shop tech's would have figured out how to do and still would have cost me thousands in man hours trying to figure it out.  Good luck, hope this helps...wish I had insight like this to read before I started troubleshooting this problem.


OMG.....What did I get myself into?
Flyinhy
6 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

Here is a diagram of how Monaco connected the Alternator.  The Red wire goes to the Chassis Battery Positive (or a terminal strip or circuit breaker connected to the Chassis Battery Positive).  This is the Remote Sense for battery voltage that controls the output voltage of the alternator.  The Yellow wire goes to the Ignition terminal strip which is +12 VDC ONLY when the key is on.  Make sure there is no voltage on this when the key is OFF.  The excites (turns on) the Alternator.  The Gray wire is connected to one of the AC Taps on the alternator and serves two purposes.  First, it drives the ALT-FAIL Relay and indicator.  Second, it drives the Tach in many coaches.  Hope this helps.

Alternator Wiring1.jpg

Any help is GREATLY appreciated.....I am in so over my head it's not funny. I have been reading as many posts on here as I can.  I work at night in as a tower crane operator. I sleep for a few hours and go work on this during the day. I will have the alternator bench tested again today and make sure I didn't burn up anything and try again this afternoon. I may also buy another regulator just to have as a spare.

23 minutes ago, Bob Wightman said:

I had almost the same problem on my 2004 Monaco Knight with a 300HP Cummings when I bought it almost a year ago.  I bought it knowing it had a bad alternator, took it directly to a shop and had it changed along with all the belts and hoses and everything else maintenance related that nobody had done during its lifetime.  On the ride home the alternator light came on again and I could tell from the volt gauge that the battery voltage was depleting, made it home ok.  Being really good with electrical and pretty good mechanical (and since the shop that repaired it was 4 hours away) if dug into it and i found a few things that might help you.  First on the wiring at the alternator there are two fuses in a weatherproof rubber box on the wires...both were blown, replaced both and still no luck but they did not blow again.  Long story shorter I determined that the wire from the dash to the alternator had a short in it somewhere (never could find out where) so I cut the wire loose at the dash (the wires are marked on the individual wire jacket) and cut the charge wire off before the fuse, ran a new wire from the front to the back under the coach and connected them together and it has worked fine ever since.  A lot of work and not easy, and something I doubt that the shop tech's would have figured out how to do and still would have cost me thousands in man hours trying to figure it out.  Good luck, hope this helps...wish I had insight like this to read before I started troubleshooting this problem.

That's the one gauge that isn't there. I will check the instrument cluster diagram to see if that is the one missing and make sure. Someone had  the dash apart at some point recently but I never thought that might have something to do with it. I appreciate every bit of advise I get....thank you!!! 


Help Needed! 2009 Monaco Dynasty Nottingham IV Driving Light Diagram
Ivylog

Contrary to the advice on IRV2, (VIP smart wheel) you have the Konsburg chassis multiplex system which is no longer supported. Diagrams above look to be for that system but it could take someone fairly smart hours to figure it all out. 
I would read up on this post as the people in OR are probably your best source on the Konsburg system.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/smart-steering-electronics-need-help-429296-3.html


OMG.....What did I get myself into?
jacwjames

My alternator should be wired the same as your. 

Have you checked all the fuses.  My wiring diagram shows three fuses total. 

In my case the DUVAC fuse is in the passenger side electrical bay, I believe it is a 20 amp fuse

The other two fuses are in line, I have a couple fuse holders, the type that you pull the cover off, mounted near the alternator.  These are 5 amp.

Attached is a screen shot of the alternator wiring off my chassis wiring diagram.  It shows the fuses.  When you open it it will be blurry, hit CTRL5 at the same time and it clears right up. 

 

 

Alternator wiring.pdf


Electric entry steps
RVKnight

etailer.com


Help Needed! 2009 Monaco Dynasty Nottingham IV Driving Light Diagram
Frank McElroy

Ralph, on a chassis multiplex system like yours, all your dash switches are part of a digital system that send specific digital codes on a data buss to the CCM computer module located in the front run bay.  This module along with the large printed circuit board then work the relays to activate functions like your lights.  You also have a rear CCM module.  

The first step is to figure out if you have a problem with the digital circuit board behind each group of 3 switches or if your problem is on the large PCB.  The CCM module rarely fails except possibly for the 5 volt supply that feeds the smart wheel controls.  I've posted in the past how to fix that problem for about $20 in parts.

When the switch board fails, typically all 3 switches on the board also fail.  How many other switches on your dash don't work?


IOTA have listened
RNMCBR

I just replaced my IOTA transfer switch. The picture shows a teal weakness in the connections on the terminal strip. Note some of the wires are only gripped across about 1/3 of their  section. Had they crimped sleeves over the ends it would be much better. But two stranded wires under one screw is asking for trouble. 

ACE493A3-310F-4A11-9A66-1983283390EC.jpeg

5849B996-027A-41C0-B34A-E54F99BB2F5B.jpeg

CC0F8F10-D36C-4273-AED1-2B49C5159937.jpeg

ACA63D16-96B5-4165-807E-5CD1236DBCD1.jpeg


Engine/Trans Temps High Again
Gary M


09 Knight 38PKQ 360 Cummins 

After a month of being sick(Covid) we decided to head south to our winter hangout. Before getting sick I had the coach serviced. Motor, Genny, radiator steam cleaned. They also without telling me did an ECM upgrade they said was needed. On our first leg from Twin Falls, ID to Nephi, UT, temps were running higher than I thought they should for being 75 out and flat landscape (199-205+). 6th gear, 1700 rpm. I tried dropping into 5th at 2100 rpm and temps dropped sometimes to183 but ran about 188 which has been normal for my coach. So I was jockeying back and forth to keep temps down. Still have two days, 9hrs to go. Outside temps mid 80’s till i get there which is good. 
Oh and since the service my MPG has dropped from 7.7 to 6.5 ????
Appreciate any suggestions on temps and MPG change. Pic is after I dropped to fifth an temps started dropping.

6A1F4D2F-7391-4F16-8FFA-8FB79BEC986F.jpeg


Looking for a radiator for a 2004 Signature with a Detroit Series 60 515 hp.
ronwtg@sbcglobal.net

I had a fan blade break causing all the other blades to break also. At least one went into the radiator. The shop is having a hard time finding a radiator. Anyone have an part number for this radiator? 
Thanks,

Ron 2004 Monaco Signature Detroit Series 60 515 hp


Is tire upgrade possible
96 EVO
On 9/25/2021 at 4:57 PM, Ivylog said:

 

A Intregra  Connerstone was parked next to me this week and I was surprised it had 365s on the front and 6 315s on the rear with a ISL engine. If it weighed enough to need that much tire, (he had not weighed yet) it had to be a slug.

 

Cornerstone should have had an ISX, or X15 depending on the year.


Looking for a radiator for a 2004 Signature with a Detroit Series 60 515 hp.
Dr4Film

If you can't find a part number for the radiator, an alternative would be to call CG&J Radiator in Gadsden Alabama to see if they have a number OR can build you a radiator after taking measurements or taking the old one to them to spec out before building.

https://cgj.com/

https://cgj.com/product-category/radiators/motorhome-and-bus-radiators/monaco-radiator


Looking for a radiator for a 2004 Signature with a Detroit Series 60 515 hp.
ronwtg@sbcglobal.net

David, I got your reply but lost the content when I tried to save and forward. Could you send the information again. Thanks,
Ron


Looking for a radiator for a 2004 Signature with a Detroit Series 60 515 hp.
willbo777

Have you tried Source in Oregon?


Looking for a radiator for a 2004 Signature with a Detroit Series 60 515 hp.
David Pratt

The Monaco P/N for the Radiator is S01806728, the Vendor P/N is RS-5164R. The Fan Blade Assembly P/N is 01806762, the vendor P/N is 36/12-12/35-paq-52J. The original radiator in the Executive, Signature and Navigator Coaches were made of Aluminum from 2004 thru 2006 and had issues with cracking and leaking and Monaco replaced them with a Copper, Brass, Steel Radiator. Do not use an Aluminum radiator replacement.

The  OEM radiators were built by a company in California, but I do not off hand know the name and they may not still be in business. You might give Source Engineering a call. They may have the correct radiator or they may be able to re core or custom build you one. Look for the vendor name on the fan blade assembly. The fan blade assembly was used in all the side radiator Roadmaster RR10R and RR8R chassis's until REV purchased Monaco from Navistar.


Looking for a radiator for a 2004 Signature with a Detroit Series 60 515 hp.
Rikadoo

Hey Ron, when i was replacing my Radiator i was told the “sticker” was on the old radiator. After removing it i discovered there was NOT one on it anywhere, so i had to use measurments. It was not untill i was installing the new one is when i found the radiator sticker on the upper part of the fan shroud on the left top looking from inside the closet, it was covered under years of dirt, but it was there.

Just now, Rikadoo said:

Hey Ron, when i was replacing my Radiator i was told the “sticker” was on the old radiator. After removing it i discovered there was NOT one on it anywhere, so i had to use measurments. It was not untill i was installing the new one is when i found the radiator sticker on the upper part of the fan shroud on the left top looking from inside the closet, it was covered under years of dirt, but it was there.

Oh and i purchased it from Source Engineering 458-207-9442 very helpfull people they also sell fans


Key Fob Functions
Hypoxia

I installed a new TriMark entry grab bar with the keypad and doorbell.  The original keypad had some of the lighting burned out and metal corrosion along with the acrylic handle crazing.  I also bought a new key fob which had to be programmed.  The fob has 4 buttons; lock, unlock, panic and a "gear".  I never knew what the gear did until today.  It activates  the salesman switch relay, a useless function for me.  The owner manual states it locks & unlocks the bay doors which I would like, I'll have to see if that is a simple change.

I also found a 7.5 amp fuse in the passenger arm rest.  I have no idea what it is for.


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
waterskier_1
22 hours ago, Jim Bob said:

No worries Jim J.

The more I've explored the Lithium the better they sound to me.  Particularly the much quicker charge time they have versus the lead acid battery.  However, they do seem to complicate things.  I've emailed the inverter/charger manufacturer to see what they have to say regarding mixing the two types.  At this point, I think I could make the ML ACR work by using the manual switch to disconnect the chassis when I need to just charge the house batts.  Would just end up being a more manual process than an automated one, but will see what they say.

I'm coming into this conversation late, as it has evolved from DUVAC - SSI, IRD, BIRD alternator problems to Lithium battery charging from the alternator.  It would be better served to have this as a new post, because the information is likely going to useful to others, but hidden in a non-related post.  First, the very basic - the stated purpose:  "The ML-Series ACR automatically combines batteries during charging, and isolates batteries when there is no charging sensed on either battery bank".  That's all it does.  It doesn't have specific charge profiles, but uses whatever profile is used at the charging source. 

The alternator is one charging source.  The alternator charge profile (if it can be called that) is constant voltage charging at approximately 14.2-14.4 volt - as long as it can (the engine is still running, and the alternator or its system has not be overloaded or compromised).  Note that there are no provisions to sample State of Charge (SOC) of the chassis battery and not provisions to switch from Bulk, to Absorption, to Float.  It stays at 14.4 volts - period.  

The other charging source for most of us is our Inverter/Charger.  That source does have selectable and sometimes customizable charge profiles.  Most of us have it set to either Lead Acid wet cells (i.e. Trojan) or AGM (i.e. Lifeline) batteries.  The charge profiles are selected for the House Batteries.  

Now, the ML ARC simply connects the two sets of batteries together.  Granted it does so under specific conditions, and keeps them connected based on specific conditions, but for the sake of this discussion, those conditions don't matter.  We are only looking at 1) They have met the conditions and are Connected, or 2) they have not met the conditions and are Not Connected.  The Not Connected condition is just that, and shouldn't require more discussion.  It is the Connected condition that matters.  

When the alternator is the source, it is producing 14.4 volts (approximately) and if the ML ARC state is Connected, then the Chassis and the House batteries are being exposed (charged if not already charged) to 14.4 volts.  This is quite normal (maybe not ideal, but typical) for the Chassis battery.  But, having the House battery at 14.4 volts is like have a Battery Charger set permanently to Absorb, as long as it is connected.  This will eventually lead to out-gassing and boiling out the water.  We seem more concerned about House batteries because they cost more in the scheme of thing.  This likely isn't a problem for a trip of under 4 hours.  But if you are driving 8-10 hours a day, especially several days in a row, this is not ideal for the house batteries.  Right now, I'm talking wet-cell and AGM - NOT Lithium.  As long as the water is watched, it likely won't cause significant loss of battery life unless you're on the road an awfully lot.  Now consider Lithium Batteries for house batteries.  Charging them at 14.4 volts, for even over an hour per 100 AHrs rating (designated "C" for Capacity) is detrimental. Most here will likely have 2) 100 AHr  or 1) 200 AHr Lithium battery.  Some will have more.  So, for a total of 200 AHrs, we start causing damage charging for more than 2 hours (1 Hr X C) where C is 200AHrs in this example.  You can see that it would not be unusual to double or triple or more this value while driving.  That is to be avoided.  Remember, we are speaking at this time only charging by the Alternator when both sets of batteries are Connected.  Another attribute of Lithium batteries is that they will accept charge much faster than wet-cell or AGM batteries.  It is not uncommon to charge them at a rate equal to "C" (Capacity).  In our example above, that would mean 200 Amps!  And they will accept that 200 Amps until full.  If you remember, wet cells and AGM require a Bulk, Absorb and Float profile to SAFELY reach full charge.  In the Absorption Mode, the current is slowly tapering down to a value around 3% - 5% "C" (which would be 6 -10 Amps, and then switch to Float for the last 10% - 20% of fully charged.  Since the current tapers off quickly, the alternator will seldom see a max of 200 Amps for any length of time.  This is important because the Alternator is not rated at is max output for 100% duty cycle.  This is the primary reason (but not the most important reason) that people who install Lithium House batteries are concerned regarding charging from the alternator (few are really knowledgeable about the sustained exposure to high voltage concern).  There is no way that the ML ACR can control this.  That is not what it was designed for.  Yes, you could disconnect the chassis batteries from the alternator, which would lower some of the load on the alternator (in an attempt to not burn it up), but that wouldn't solve the high voltage problem. 

The only real solution for Lithium installations is to install a DC-DC Charger such as the Victron Energy Orion-Tr Smart DC/DC Charger. This is a 3-stage that uses the alternator voltage as the input.  It operates very similar to the Battery Charger we have for shore power.  It is designed as a solution to a variety of problem.  We won't discuss the "Smart Alternator" solution, as it isn't applicable to our coaches. It will take the alternator voltage and use it to charge the house batteries, at the proper charge profile, whether wet-cell, AGM, or Lithium.  It will also limit the current (and therefore the load) on the alternator.  I don't think (I need to more research since I don't use it that way) allow charging the chassis battery when on shore power.  So, it may be that some will want both a ML ARC and a DC/DC Charger.  The solution I am using is to inhibit my BIRD, such that it will never connect the two battery banks together, except from the Dash BOOST switch, in any case.  The alternator can not charge the house batteries, and the house batteries cannot charge the chassis batteries.  I have 1400 watts of solar.  I have the original Monaco panel (90-100 Watt) panel designated with it's own solar controller to charge the chassis battery.  The rest of the solar goes through two MPPT controllers that charge only the House batteries.  I can select the charge profile for all three solar controllers.  I am currently building Lithium batteries, but I did this just to save the Lifeline AGM batteries.  I may get a DC/DC charger for the Alternator is I find the solar isn't enough (along with shore or generator power through the main battery charger) to keep the house Lithium batteries charged.  Note that charged means something different in Lithium batteries.  You do not want to charge to 100% unless you are going to use it immediately.  You never want to store Lithium with over 80-85% charge.  This is to maximize battery life.  The sweet spot with Lithium batteries is between 20% and 80% SOC.  So you want to be able to shut off charging when it reaches approximately 80% SOC, not 100%  That is something you can't do without a smart charger. 

There are many more considerations, most not obvious, and some not even mentioned by battery manufacturers, that should be considered when switching to Lithium Batteries.  I think this is enough off-topic for this thread. 


Fixed a Remco ARV water pump leak.
Ivylog

The pressure adjusting housing was leaking on the end of the pump. Removed (4 screws) and stretched a small O ring around it and reinstalled. Changed the adjustment in the amount the O ring moved the housing out and all is well.

004A3044-EBA9-45FC-8F4B-17CF1906AD8F.png

C83D0B6B-F3D9-489C-B07A-6FD397598BAA.jpeg


OMG.....What did I get myself into?
Flyinhy

Hi guys, 

A quick update. I drove to the alternator shop and made sure the alternator was working properly. I reinstalled it on the coach and cut out the "weatherpak" connection( I will repair with another later) I hooked wire up per the schematics you guys sent and told me to do. I made sure the rocker switch was in the "front " position located in the engine bay. I tried to start from the front and nothing but a really strange clicking sound....more like a clunk really. I tried it three times more and the same....clunk. I walked to the rear....switched to the rear start position and she fired up. I checked my voltage and boom! 14.23 volts. I let her run for 20 minutes or so charging and checking gauge all the while. I switched to the front position while running on the rocker switch and cut her off in the cabin. Tried the key switch and it cranked right up. I was tickled pink for about 10 minutes......

Now....neither slides operate

Generator shows a code of 33 and won't start. 

I'm still really happy though. I at least know I'm charging now!!! 

I am running on about 3 hours sleep and I have to be at work at 5.......so the quest continues tomorrow as to why the slides aren't working. 

4 hours ago, jacwjames said:

My alternator should be wired the same as your. 

Have you checked all the fuses.  My wiring diagram shows three fuses total. 

In my case the DUVAC fuse is in the passenger side electrical bay, I believe it is a 20 amp fuse

The other two fuses are in line, I have a couple fuse holders, the type that you pull the cover off, mounted near the alternator.  These are 5 amp.

Attached is a screen shot of the alternator wiring off my chassis wiring diagram.  It shows the fuses.  When you open it it will be blurry, hit CTRL5 at the same time and it clears right up. 

 

 

Alternator wiring.pdf 37.4 kB · 9 downloads

I didn't see the fuses in mine like that. Could they be near the batteries? 

I'm not too far from you. I'm working at the lock and dam project at Chickamauga. 


HWH X-Slide Hydraulic Mechanism Maintenance
CountryB

I spray some lube on the rollers/pins (where the X-arms pivot) but not the chain.


Adjustable throttle and brake pedals not moving
Patrick

My adjustable pedals don’t move and are in an uncomfortable position. Can someone advise me how to troubleshoot this system and identify the reason for non-operation? 
 

When I toggle the switch nothing happens, no sound, no movement. I’m not sure where to start. 
 

Is there a way to manually adjust the position of the pedals as I doubt I will alter them very often once I find a sweet spot?
 

Thanks for your help!


Dometic Duo Therm rear AC unit making a loud tapping noise - Reverser coil?
CountryB

My rear (bedroom) AC is acting up. It's a Dometic Duo-Therm (13.5K Heat pump) with the 5 button thermostat. I was camping for a week in TN, and it was running all day. One evening I was outside and heard a loud tapping or knocking noise form the ground. I traced the noise to the rear AC unit. I climbed up on the roof and removed the AC cover. It sounds like it is coming form the right rear corner area (which I later identified as the "Reverser Valve" (area) by looking at the parts manual to see what was in the right rear corner of the AC unit.

Back inside the Coach the thermostat would not work so I could not shut off zone 3. The mode button was not functioning (and the screen looked dim) so I could not go through the various AC modes and turn off the unit. Then I switched the main on/off switch at the base of the thermostat off and then back on and the thermostat was working again. So whatever the issue is with the tapping noise it is affecting the thermostat too.

I just ran the AC in Fan only mode that night. Next day I put AC back into cool mode and it ran all day with no issues/noises. But the next day that tapping noise was back after running fine all day. Back home now, I ran the AC unit on generator all day and it ran fine. I never tried running it in heat pump mode.

I read several posts and watched some You Tube videos on troubleshooting the "Reversing Valve" (that is the part that switches (reverses) the AC to go from cooling to heat pump. Nothing in the troubleshooting posts or videos mentioned any tapping noises. So I'm not sure if the reversing solenoid is going bad or something in the control side. Anyways, I'm going to take a chance and just replace the reversing valve solenoid. It's on backorder everywhere - but I have my order in. It's about the cheapest part on the unit and about the only thing I can do without special tools. 

I'll report back if it fixes it. If anyone has had this tapping/knocking noise and diagnosed it, let me know.


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
Ivylog

I’m not convinced that the alternator is going to put out its full 200A just because it’s charging Lithium instead of AGM. I have a dedicated 100A charger for my 600AH of Lithium and the most it’s ever put out is 67 amps into them… 11 amps/battery even though each BMS is rated 60 amps. When they get near fully charged, the amps decrease as each BMS takes its battery out of the loop… all the way down to 6 amps.
 

When I build 2- 300amp batteries I’m not going with an expensive 300A BMS for each battery. 150A would probably be enough, although I’ve bought 2-200A, as I can’t charge 300A and the micro (biggest amps) draws less than 200A.


Adjustable throttle and brake pedals not moving
Dr4Film

Did you check the 12 VDC Fuse to see whether it has failed or not?

Mine is in the Front Run Bay on the large electrical panel.


Help Needed! 2009 Monaco Dynasty Nottingham IV Driving Light Diagram
bbralph

The tech is now looking for the Eaton Master Module for the headlights?  Does anyone know where that might be?

 


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
waterskier_1
22 hours ago, Dear LaserWorks said:

Vito, yeah, I've watched way too many of his videos. 🙂 He's in a league of his own for sure. I'm mostly wary of winding up with used cells, really, more than grade B. There are sellers that stock Grade A, new, in the US for immediate shipping. It's not cheap, but still less than half the cost of Battleborn, and no waiting for your ship to come in, literally, from China.

I believe that Grade B includes used.

18 hours ago, JDCrow said:

 

Ditched the Bird when I went lithium and got a DC/DC Victron which can be monitored. The battery I picked up can take 100 Amps on. After watching the Victron video on YouTube of frying alternators, I was sold, but I guess that’s the point of the video LOL 

I have not been able to tell if the Victron DC/DC Charger is able to allow charging chassis battery from shore power.  Not many would want to do this, but it would be good to know.

17 hours ago, Dear LaserWorks said:

One good way to protect your alternator is to replace your solenoid with a LiFePO4 Battery Isolation Manager (BIM) for $175.

https://battlebornbatteries.com/product/lifepo4-battery-isolation-manager/

Click on the "Features" tab & you'll see how it cycles ON/OFF to prevent your alternator from overheating.

"Under normal charging conditions, the BIM will connect for 15 minutes every 35 minutes. That means that the BIM will connect for 15 minutes, disconnect for 20 minutes, and repeat this cycle until the coach battery is charged."

I personally don't recommend this.  Yes, it will protect your alternator, but it still only provides 14.4 (or whatever your alternator charging voltage is) to the Lithium batteries, even if only on for 15 minutes and off for 20 minutes.  The Victron DC/DC Charger is a full fledged 3-stage battery charger.


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
Ivylog
18 hours ago, Dear LaserWorks said:

Under normal charging conditions, the BIM will connect for 15 minutes every 35 minutes.

This ^^^ got me to thinking as I already have a switch that lets me disable the BigBoy when dry camping… it’s about a 4 amp draw all the time which adds up. Bought a $5 programmable timer that I’ll add to that circuit so I can cycle the charging of the house batteries similarly to the $172 BIM. 

 
As for a alternator not fully charging a LifePo4…13.6 is 100% which is well within a alternator output voltage. Table below is for a LifePo4 12V battery.
 
And to further hijack my own thread… when not using Lithium batteries for several months, it’s better to have them at 50% (13.15V)  so the lithium anode doesn’t degrade.

A54ACC80-916E-4E1C-B72C-32DEAA334A32.png


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
waterskier_1
58 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

I’m not convinced that the alternator is going to put out its full 200A just because it’s charging Lithium instead of AGM. I have a dedicated 100A charger for my 600AH of Lithium and the most it’s ever put out is 67 amps into them… 11 amps/battery even though each BMS is rated 60 amps. When they get near fully charged, the amps decrease as each BMS takes its battery out of the loop… all the way down to 6 amps.
 

When I build 2- 300amp batteries I’m not going with an expensive 300A BMS for each battery. 150A would probably be enough, although I’ve bought 2-200A, as I can’t charge 300A and the micro (biggest amps) draws less than 200A.

The BMS doesn't limit the amount of current as you are thinking.  It is rated at a maximum current it will pass before it self destructs (likely with smoke).  It's the difference in voltage and the internal resistance of the battery (and the battery cables) that determines the amount of current.  That is the problem with connecting Lithium directly to an alternator without some protection device (see above for two that have been mentioned).  If the Lithium batteries are quite low, and you have low loss cables connecting them, you should be able to charge them at 1"C" where "C" is the battery Capacity in Amp-Hours.  If you indeed have 600 AHrs, then with an appropriate sized source (and an appropriate sized BMS that won't smoke) you should be able to supply 600 Amps until almost fully charged.  I haven't tried this, but I won't build a battery any larger than 280-300 AHrs.  I will parallel more than one of those batteries though.  I'm using a 150 Amp rated BMS, and with two in parallel, there is no way I can exceed that with the current charging sources I have (180 Amp Alternator, but limited by a DC/DC chrger, and Victron MultiPlus with 130 Amps battery charger).  So the most I could see is 65 Amps from the MultiPlus.  I also have 1400 Watts solar on the roof, 1300 Watts dedicated to the coach battery.   That could provide a maximum of 104 Amps, in perfect conditions at noon on the equator.  So that won't be a problem either.  But my design is not to be able to charge my batteries back to 80% in an hour or less.  If it does it in 5 hours I'll be happy.


Dometic Duo Therm rear AC unit making a loud tapping noise - Reverser coil?
Ivan K

I'd say check if there is a constant power to the solenoid while you hear the clicking. If yes, you are likely right. If the coil clicking correspond to its power interruptions, no sense to replace the coil as it might be a problem with the board, connections due to vibrations or the thermostat itself.


Adjustable throttle and brake pedals not moving
Patrick
1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

Did you check the 12 VDC Fuse to see whether it has failed or not?

Mine is in the Front Run Bay on the large electrical panel.

Yes. Fuse checks out ok. 


OMG.....What did I get myself into?
waterskier_1
2 hours ago, Flyinhy said:

Hi guys, 

A quick update. I drove to the alternator shop and made sure the alternator was working properly. I reinstalled it on the coach and cut out the "weatherpak" connection( I will repair with another later) I hooked wire up per the schematics you guys sent and told me to do. I made sure the rocker switch was in the "front " position located in the engine bay. I tried to start from the front and nothing but a really strange clicking sound....more like a clunk really. I tried it three times more and the same....clunk. I walked to the rear....switched to the rear start position and she fired up. I checked my voltage and boom! 14.23 volts. I let her run for 20 minutes or so charging and checking gauge all the while. I switched to the front position while running on the rocker switch and cut her off in the cabin. Tried the key switch and it cranked right up. I was tickled pink for about 10 minutes......

Now....neither slides operate

Generator shows a code of 33 and won't start. 

I'm still really happy though. I at least know I'm charging now!!! 

I am running on about 3 hours sleep and I have to be at work at 5.......so the quest continues tomorrow as to why the slides aren't working. 

I didn't see the fuses in mine like that. Could they be near the batteries? 

I'm not too far from you. I'm working at the lock and dam project at Chickamauga. 

Glad you got it connected correctly and all is working.  I'm not familiar with the "weatherpak" connection, so can't help on that.  It sounds like your chassis batteries were a bit low and the starter solenoid was kicking the starter in, but didn't have enough voltage to crank.  I can't say why switching to the rear would make a difference, because it seems the starter relay was working, and the starter cables don't run to the front, only small wires that trigger the relays in the back.  It would be interesting to see what the voltage was when this occurred.  


Adjustable throttle and brake pedals not moving
Dr4Film

Then next would be to check if you have 12 VDC power at the control switch that runs the motor in and out.


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
waterskier_1
21 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

This ^^^ got me to thinking as I already have a switch that lets me disable the BigBoy when dry camping… it’s about a 4 amp draw all the time which adds up. Bought a $5 programmable timer that I’ll add to that circuit so I can cycle the charging of the house batteries similarly to the $172 BIM. 

 
As for a alternator not fully charging a LifePo4…13.6 is 100% which is well within a alternator output voltage. Table below is for a LifePo4 12V battery.
 
And to further hijack my own thread… when not using Lithium batteries for several months, it’s better to have them at 50% (13.15V)  so the lithium anode doesn’t degrade.

A54ACC80-916E-4E1C-B72C-32DEAA334A32.png

I'm not sure if you were directing this comment to me, but the problem has never been that the alternator could not charge the Lithium batteries fully (if you really want them at 100% SOC).  The problems or concerns were 1) that the alternator could overheat in the process, and 2) it isn't good for fully charged Lithium batteries to be held at 14.4 volts for long periods of time.  Many are not thinking about the second concern.  That is the difference between Battleborn's backyard mechanic approach and the Victron approach.  


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
jacwjames

Waterskier 1

Thanks for the detailed response. 

When I first considered lithium I started to do research and found there was much more to it then simply putting in a lithium battery.  I knew that charging was more complicated.  Also read about the alternator issues.  Also read about cold weather protection including temperature controlled heating if in cold weather.

I don't do enough boon docking to justify the time and expense.  It's just easier for me to start my generator for ~1 hour a day to keep the batteries up. 


Help Needed! 2009 Monaco Dynasty Nottingham IV Driving Light Diagram
bbralph

The tech is not knowledgeable with the multiplex system.  We are just trying to get the headlights working, so I can take it to another location if necessary.  He has removed the headlight switch module and found that someone in the past had soldered the wires directly to the switch.  We have a new switch, but we do not have a replacement connecter.  Do any of you know which connector it is that we need to connect the wires to the new switch?

headlight switch module.jpg


OMG.....What did I get myself into?
Dwight Lindsey

Charles:

The fault code 3 on the generator will repeat.  So unless you've pressed the stop once briefly to get the 2nd digit, it could be that the 33 you've mentioned is just the repeated 3.

Once you see a 3 fault code, press the stop side of the switch once quickly, then read the 2nd digit of the fault code.

Dwight


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
Jim Bob

Jim J,  quoting waterskier "wet cells and AGM require a Bulk, Absorb and Float profile to SAFELY reach full charge".  I would not even consider lithium if I only had to run the gen for an hour.  However, my experience is that it takes 6 hours or more to get even close to full charge via generator.  That is a pain in the you know what.... hence my consideration of Lithium.  My FLA batts are still going and I don't have another boon docking trip planned until Spring...  so I've got time to research and ponder.


IOTA have listened
Grampy OG
4 hours ago, RNMCBR said:

I just replaced my IOTA transfer switch. The picture shows a teal weakness in the connections on the terminal strip. Note some of the wires are only gripped across about 1/3 of their  section. Had they crimped sleeves over the ends it would be much better. But two stranded wires under one screw is asking for trouble. 

ACE493A3-310F-4A11-9A66-1983283390EC.jpeg

5849B996-027A-41C0-B34A-E54F99BB2F5B.jpeg

CC0F8F10-D36C-4273-AED1-2B49C5159937.jpeg

ACA63D16-96B5-4165-807E-5CD1236DBCD1.jpeg

I can see how that is a big problem. I used these ferrules and I feel much better about it. 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I9E0X0A?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

I had to buy this crimper to do the large gauge but I am sure it was $30 well spent. 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R8LF34F?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

Ken


Help Needed! 2009 Monaco Dynasty Nottingham IV Driving Light Diagram
Jim Bob

Hey Frank,  Thanks for the info on the multiplex system.  I'm considering upgrading to a new to me 2006 era Monaco Dynasty/Executive/Signature and I thought the multiplex wiring was an advantage.  What you described above sounds like a nightmare for someone that is already electrical wiring challenged.  Would it be better to find a 2005 model without the multiplex wiring, considering the older they get the fewer parts will be available?  Thanks,

Jim


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
vanwill52

Waterskier (Rick?)

I think the Lithium battery subject does indeed deserve its own thread.  I think Walter had started one.  Perhaps you can start another or join Walter's original thread.  I find the Lithium battery subject quite fascinating.  But like Jim, I would have to understand it a lot more thoroughly before I dump my 1000 AH FLA (8 T-145 size 6V batteries) and switch to it.  You, and several others, seem to have PERSONAL experience with the subject.  As Bill D famously said (ad nauseum) "Don't tell me what you read on the Internet.  Tell me what YOU have done."

Some of you guys with PERSONAL experience in converting to Lithium batteries could do the rest of us peons a great service by keeping us informed of your progress, experiences, and your thoughts.

By all means, do start a new thread.  And not because your contributions aren't welcome on this one, but with "DUVAC" as the heading of this thread, it would be harder to search for info on Lithium batteries.  Perhaps Scotty could "cut and paste" to save some of this Lithium info to a thread devoted to it.

Thanks so much for your detailed input!!  At present, all I can add is QUESTIONS.  Some of you guys have ANSWERS.  Thank you!


Help Needed! 2009 Monaco Dynasty Nottingham IV Driving Light Diagram
Ivylog
41 minutes ago, Jim Bob said:

Thanks for the info on the multiplex system.  I'm considering upgrading to a new to me 2006 era Monaco Dynasty/Executive/Signature and I thought the multiplex wiring was an advantage

My 08 Navigator only has the house multiplex system. The Kongsburg chassis multiplex system started in late 08 and 09 which is the OPs headlight problem, not the house lights, slides, AquaHot. 
By now any issues with the house multiplex (often a loose ground) have been resolved and parts and service is available but mainly by M&M in Ohio and Deland, FLa during the winter.

In 3 years I’ve had one problem which was fixed by unplugging the switch board. I did have M&M do a backup of my multiplex in Deland for $175…cheap insurance. This enables them to program a new switch board (so it controls the same things) and it’s then just plug in the new board… there are 13 in my rig.

I would not let the house multiplex be a deal breaker, but I would for the chassis multiplex. I would also want a 06 or older engine… my 08 has a 06 engine. I would add a 600-650HP ISX engine to the list of things you do not want!


OMG.....What did I get myself into?
Flyinhy

Okay, I will recheck tomorrow. I also see where the engine needs to be off and the key on to extend slides. Hopefully that's the case. I think I have a few gremlins living in this coach. Thank you for all your help! 

1 hour ago, waterskier_1 said:

Glad you got it connected correctly and all is working.  I'm not familiar with the "weatherpak" connection, so can't help on that.  It sounds like your chassis batteries were a bit low and the starter solenoid was kicking the starter in, but didn't have enough voltage to crank.  I can't say why switching to the rear would make a difference, because it seems the starter relay was working, and the starter cables don't run to the front, only small wires that trigger the relays in the back.  It would be interesting to see what the voltage was when this occurred.  

The gauge said 10 volts at the time. But I had 12volts everywhere else. This what I've always heard referred to as a "weatherpak" connection31lAQB9lnIL._AC_.jpg.f029eca1ea3e579fec9f93f50de35fa8.jpg


Charging problem???
Mike in Va

I noticed today that my cabin batteries appeared to show they were boiling a little water over from too much charge. Just a little but not enough to need to add any water to fill. I checked my inverter and it showed charging of 13.6, my cabin batteries showed 13.6 volts and my engine batteries showed 12.6. I cut the cabin battery switch off in the battery bay and waited about 2 hours and checked again. My inverter showed charging 13.6 and the engine batteries showed 12.6. Should the inverter charge the engine batteries to 13.6 volts? According to my manual both sides of batteries should charge on inverter, alter, and generator .I am attaching a picture of my set up. I've replaced the solenoid, ONLY because it appeared orginial, but not the little black box above it. Checking to see if I have a problem or not.  2001 Hoilday Rambler Ambassador599650835_20210514_132537(1).thumb.jpg.a2d733cb1b36d0d4291f3af002af8b49.jpg .Thanks for the help.     


Help Needed! 2009 Monaco Dynasty Nottingham IV Driving Light Diagram
bbralph

Ivylog,

Is the M&M in Deland the same as the shop in Ohio, and are they open in that location year round?


Drivers foot carpet
IlliniCathy

That looks just like ours.  A bunched mess under the drivers feet.  Let us know if you find a replacement.


Charging problem???
Dr4Film

Mike,

There are three levels of charge provided by your charger, Bulk, Absorption and Float.

Bulk charge is generally over 14.2 - 14.4 VDC

Absorption charge is generally in between Bulk 7 Float usually 13.8 - 14.0 VDC

Float charge is generally 13.2 -13.4 VDC

Possibly your Inverter/Charger is not functioning correctly by not reducing the voltage to Float.

Also check your charger settings to make sure they are correct.


Help Needed! 2009 Monaco Dynasty Nottingham IV Driving Light Diagram
Jim Bob

familiar with the 600 HP engine issues, and I'm certainly one that is not in a hurry to get somewhere.  The 400 horse Cummins would be perfectly ok with me and it seems there are tons of them around.  Thanks for the info on the multiplex.  I'm staying below 07 for the emissions crap so I'm right there with you on the 06 or older engine.  Thanks,  again.

Jim


Dometic Duo Therm rear AC unit making a loud tapping noise - Reverser coil?
CountryB

I have not been able to get the AC to act up when I'm ready for testing it. I'll try and run it another 8 hours or so - maybe I can catch it then. Or it could have acted up due to cooler nights in TN (I'm back in FL now).

I'm sure if I cant get to fail now while I'm home, it will fail on my next camping trip...

BTW - I ordered the Reversing solenoid ($50). I'm just taking a guess - if I'm wrong, at least I eliminated one thing. Since this is an intermittent problem it may take a while before it acts up with me watching. 

Interestingly, the troubleshooting manual says do not use a voltmeter for testing - use a 120V light bulb.

Great so now I have to make this testing tool. What could possibly go wrong with that? 

Copy/paste from the manual (below): 

a.  Roof Top Air Conditioners

The operation of the AC control box can be checked at the 6-pin plug connection.  Disconnect the 
unit and use a 115 volt light bulb to check from terminal 5 (the white or common wire) to:
Terminal 1 (blue) is the compressor Terminal 2 (black) is high speed fan Terminal 3 (yellow) is 
medium speed fan Terminal 4 (red) is low speed fan Terminal 6 (green/yellow) chassis ground
If the circuit is completed the light bulb will illuminate.
Note:  Do not use a voltmeter to do the above tests as it will
give erroneous readings.

 

Dometic Duo-Therm wiring schematic.jpg


Radiator repsir
IlliniCathy

Friday we accidentally poked a hole in the radiator on our 2002 Knight.  We have a trip planned and finding a new radiator is problematic.  We were able to remove the radiator out the back and a family member who owns a welding shop was able to weld the very small hole shut.  We were able to reinstall everything thru the back without even going inside the motor home.  Just did a 20 mile test run.  No leaking!!!


Radiator repsir
Dr4Film

Great job! I bet that you wouldn't want to do that again especially when you have a trip planned. Accidents do happen and I have had my share of them. It's all on how you manage those "problems" to get the job done.

👍


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
JDCrow
3 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

I believe that Grade B includes used.

I have not been able to tell if the Victron DC/DC Charger is able to allow charging chassis battery from shore power.  Not many would want to do this, but it would be good to know.

I personally don't recommend this.  Yes, it will protect your alternator, but it still only provides 14.4 (or whatever your alternator charging voltage is) to the Lithium batteries, even if only on for 15 minutes and off for 20 minutes.  The Victron DC/DC Charger is a full fledged 3-stage battery charger.

No on the DC/DC charger charging chassis battery while on shore power. The alternator charges while engine running, and my Multiplus 2 has a 4amp trickle charger when hooked to shore power. 
 

The DC/DC just takes alternator juice and necks it down to 30 amps. And you can refine it for the type of battery you want to charge, such as lithium since they are on a different charge pattern than lead.


Help Needed! 2009 Monaco Dynasty Nottingham IV Driving Light Diagram
Frank McElroy

Ralph, I left you a voice message on your contact phone number to call me back.


Radiator repsir
Jim McGarvie
30 minutes ago, IlliniCathy said:

Friday we accidentally poked a hole in the radiator on our 2002 Knight.  We have a trip planned and finding a new radiator is problematic.  We were able to remove the radiator out the back and a family member who owns a welding shop was able to weld the very small hole shut.  We were able to reinstall everything thru the back without even going inside the motor home.  Just did a 20 mile test run.  No leaking!!!

Great job! I would not want to tackle that.


TIRED out
Rikadoo

Holy crap! For the better part of 2 hours I have been on line as well as calling on the phone trying to find 2 front tires, I originally was wanting TOYO tires then shifted to Hankooks, I finally found a company in West Sacramento that found 4 of the Hankook AH37 in the entire state of California. I was amazed how many places never even answered there phones! Many places have tier 3 tires which if I was needing for the rears I might consider however for the front its a different story, one place that specialised in Goodyear told me so many tire shops just can't get any stock so there not answering. The company (Radial tire center) is having two shipped to his location for me, The price is awesome $441.82 each and I won't even mind the one hr drive to get there. 

I got to say if your looking to buy tires soon you better start looking soon, too many boats sitting in the bays waiting to be off loaded I guess.


Help Needed! 2009 Monaco Dynasty Nottingham IV Driving Light Diagram
Hypoxia
1 hour ago, Jim Bob said:

  I'm staying below 07 for the emissions crap so I'm right there with you on the 06 or older engine.  Thanks,  again.

Jim

Most '07 motorhomes have 2006 engines and emissions in them.  I would include the '2007 in a search.


Help Needed! 2009 Monaco Dynasty Nottingham IV Driving Light Diagram
Jim Bob

I could have been more clear....  staying below 2007 engine wise, not necessarily coach wise. Certainly would not mind an 07 coach with an 06 engine.  Thanks,

 


Charging problem???
Mike in Va

Dr4Film I contacted the manufacturer today and they said that as long as I had the inverter plugged into shore power the inverter will put out 13.6 volts. Could it be something on the MH is not reducing the voltage as you described above. Could it be the little black box that connects to the solenoid with the red, black and blue wire? Not sure how to test it. On any given day after sitting what voltage should my engine batteries show when tested? They are less then a year old.    Thanks 


TIRED out
JDCrow

This is why I ordered tires off eBay, shipped to my door and took them to local shop for install. Even Walmart was more than reasonable on their tire prices online. I just ordered wheel for wife’s truck, 90-100 days out. 
 

And you are correct. Just read a big article on the whole longshoreman, truck driver shortage and lack of rentable space for containers contributing to the delays. Everyone is pointing the finger at someone else.  From the article, it was presented we are one of the few countries that doesn’t have 24 hr offloading, so it chokes the supply chain. 
 


Help Needed! 2009 Monaco Dynasty Nottingham IV Driving Light Diagram
Frank McElroy
5 hours ago, bbralph said:

The tech is now looking for the Eaton Master Module for the headlights?  Does anyone know where that might be?

 

For the group, to post an answer to your question, the Eaton Master module has the switches called Ceiling Lights, Battery Boost and Generator start on it.  In the set of wiring diagrams you downloaded it is diagram called 38080796 Eaton Sw Wiring.

It was good talking with you over the phone a few minutes ago.  Sometimes it's a lot easier to discuss an issue in a phone conversation vs the back and forth on the group.  You're welcome to call or text if you need additional help.


Radiator repsir
IlliniCathy

Hubby had it disassembled in about 4 hours.  Cleaned inner cooler, transmission cooler, and the radiator without cutting anything or getting inside motorhome.  All done thru rear hatch.  He had it reassembled in about 3 hours.  He is amazing, if I do say so myself!!


Radiator repsir
Jim McGarvie

What model Knight? I would love to hear it would be that easy on my 30PBD!


Front A/C-heat pump not blowing cold or hot
Cubflyer

Since I have returned to my home base last week, I have put a temporary tap on the low pressure tube, found no pressure (Freon), put some nitrogen pressure on the system and found a leak in a tube with soapy water.    This afternoon my A/C service friend came by and we (he) put a permanent tap on and soldered up the area that was making bubbles.  It is now setting with nitrogen pressure to confirm the "fix".  If the pressure holds, he will service it with R22, I will clean all the coils, put new seals everywhere. and reassemble the package (It's currently off the roof)..... if not holding pressure I will be buying a new unit....  finger crossed...

 


Semi-permanent awning???
woodylmiller

Thanks for all the responses.  I went with the shade sails.  Just got the shade sail today, waiting for the support poles.  Very windy today.  Our table and umbrella blew over and the umbrella was not open.  So now I need to just find an anchor point on the coach.  About $100 for a 20x16 shade sail and two support poles, much cheaper than replacing an awning.  Thanks,

Woody Miller


Charging problem???
Cubflyer

I would suggest you take that relay and black box out and replace it with one of these (see photo)Blue Sea ML-ACR....  Look it up, read about it.... I can now "control" if my alternator or  my inverter (powered by shore or genny) charges one or both batteries or joins them together to start the engine.ML-ACR.thumb.jpg.d24e4acdd940aabd882c47be2d507089.jpg


Charging problem???
Gary 05 AMB DST

I think my 05 Ambassador engine batteries are not charged by the inverter. That is why I installed a TrickleCharge to charge the chassis batteries.

Gary 05 AMB DST


TIRED out
Diane M.

I was at a tire place recently to get a quote on Michelin tires and was told there were none and it was anywhere from 2-4 mos delivery.    I believe that since it was reported that LA Harbor which unloads 40% of all US goods two weeks ago had 60 ships waiting to unload and a week later it was up to 73 ships.  The article stated they did not have enough people to unload nor enough truckers.  It is not getting any better.  Morale of the story, if you need tires, plan on waiting for them.

Diane

 


Engine Temps rising again.
Gary M

C4D3AF96-6B5C-43D0-BC1D-90B68B114DE4.thumb.jpeg.fab48839da145d2d3c4aec7d0ca90592.jpegEngine/Trans Temps High Again
09 Knight 38PKQ 360 Cummins 

After a month of being sick(Covid) we decided to head south to our winter hangout. Before getting sick I had the coach serviced. Motor, Genny, radiator steam cleaned. They also without telling me did an ECM upgrade they said was needed. On our first leg from Twin Falls, ID to Nephi, UT, temps were running higher than I thought they should for being 65 out and flat landscape (199-205+). 6th gear, 1700 rpm. I then brought it up to 75mph @ 2100 rpm’s and it cooled down to 188. I tried dropping into 5th at 2100 rpm 65 mph and temps dropped sometimes to183 but ran about 188 which has been normal for my coach. Motor seems to need to be at high rpm’s to run normal temperatures. Outside temp was 73. So I was jockeying back and forth to keep temps down. Still have two days, 9hrs to go. Outside temps mid 80’s till i get there which is good. 
Oh and since the service my MPG has dropped from 7.7 to 6.5 ????
Appreciate any suggestions on temps and MPG change. Pic is after I raised speed  and temps started dropping. They were around 199.


Charging problem???
Cubflyer

I believe with the ML-ACR both chassis and house do... that has been my experience with it in "auto" mode... if I'm running the genny and the engine I isolate them.....  The original relay and control I have no idea how it was designed to work....

 

 


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