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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/560-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Charging problem???
Dr4Film
Engine/Trans Temps High Again
miacasa_2000
Engine Temps rising again.
JDCrow
Towing with the ISC
tmw188
OMG.....What did I get myself into?
Michael Powell
Towing with the ISC
Ivylog
Towing with the ISC
jacwjames
Towing with the ISC
Cubflyer
Engine Temps rising again.
Ivylog
Towing with the ISC
Dr4Film
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
Scotty Hutto
Engine Temps rising again.
ktloah
Engine Temps rising again.
JDCrow
Engine/Trans Temps High Again
Gary M
Engine Temps rising again.
Gary M
Towing with the ISC
tmw188
Engine Temps rising again.
ktloah
Engine Temps rising again.
Gary M
Engine Temps rising again.
JDCrow
Air Intake Drain Hose I Assume
tmw188
Engine Temps rising again.
Gary M
Engine Temps rising again.
JDCrow
No dash switches work
Brett63
Engine Temps rising again.
Gary M
10kw generator code 45
Flyinhy
Charging problem???
Mike in Va
Towing with the ISC
Cubflyer
Charging problem???
Cubflyer
Charging problem???
willbo777
No dash switches work
Brett63
10kw generator code 45
willbo777
Generator DC input
Grampy OG
Generator DC input
Ivylog
No dash switches work
Ivylog
Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
milly59
Towing with the ISC
tmw188
Towing with the ISC
jacwjames
Sani-con 600S
PTTech
10kw generator code 45
Ivan K
10kw generator code 45
willbo777
No dash switches work
Gary Cole
Generator DC input
Ivan K
No dash switches work
Frank McElroy
Fuel tranfer pump on Cummins eng.
BobSchmeck

New Posts

Charging problem???
Dr4Film
11 hours ago, Mike in Va said:

Dr4Film I contacted the manufacturer today and they said that as long as I had the inverter plugged into shore power the inverter will put out 13.6 volts. Could it be something on the MH is not reducing the voltage as you described above. Could it be the little black box that connects to the solenoid with the red, black and blue wire? Not sure how to test it. On any given day after sitting what voltage should my engine batteries show when tested? They are less then a year old.    Thanks 

What is the brand and model of your Inverter/Charger?

What "manufacturer" did you talk with about the problem?

AFAIK once the batteries attain "Float" SOC the Inverter will just maintain them at that level. If the batteries are being overcharged and boiling water off, it may be a sign of a problem some place other than the charger.

Are your batteries bulging at the sides at all?

I have Water Miser Caps on my House Batteries and sometimes when I check fluid levels I will see a small amount of moisture escaping from the top of the caps.

You can use your DVOM to take measurements of the voltage levels when the Batteries are fully charged & when they are needing to be charged.


Engine/Trans Temps High Again
miacasa_2000

I'd look long and hard into that ECM upgrade. Cummins will give you the correct parameters that you can take to a shop and have yours checked and or recalibrated to the proper specs. At least you would know.

Roy  2003 Dynasty   


Engine Temps rising again.
JDCrow

I would think running at 2100 RPM would increase fuel consumption?

As far as temps, Fan clutch? Boost waste gate? Did you have a flush with the Rad cleaning?  That could lead to air lock. The steam clean could have damaged fins, or actually pushed gunk into the fins more, and thus air flow is now decreased. 
 

This is one if those problems that can lead to a lot of parts thrown at it with no rhyme or reason. 
 

I would fine a reputable shop and start with some diagnostics to see which sensors are working correctly. Perhaps a leak down test in the radiator. 


Help Needed! 2009 Monaco Dynasty Nottingham IV Driving Light Diagram
Ivylog
13 hours ago, bbralph said:

Ivylog,

Is the M&M in Deland the same as the shop in Ohio, and are they open in that location year round?

In Deland after New year for 3 months…assume the Ohio location closed then as it’s a father-son operation.

12 hours ago, Hypoxia said:

Most '07 motorhomes have 2006 engines and emissions in them.  I would include the '2007 in a search.

A 07 Dynasty is likely to have a 07 engine (unlike other models) and I can guarantee a 08 Dynasty will have a ISL 07-08 particular filter engine.


Looking for a radiator for a 2004 Signature with a Detroit Series 60 515 hp.
flyinghi

HI Ron

 

I have a radiator for a 2003 Signature with a Cummins 525 ISX engine. Don't know if one works for the other (Cat vs Cummins). It is new still in the shipping crate. I had to replace the radiator back in 2005 and ended up with a spare. 

 

Thanks Hal


Looking for a radiator for a 2004 Signature with a Detroit Series 60 515 hp.
Chargerman

I replaced my radiator last year. Bought the new one from Radiator Supply House. Great company. They had the drawing for it which they sent me to confirm prior to ordering. Excellent service and workmanship. You could save a ton of money by finding a shop that could record yours. I chose to go all new for piece of mind. Be ready, it is very expensive. I recall mine costing about $6500 and that was the best price I was able to find. 


Towing with the ISC
tmw188

Where is this lift pump located, above the starter? Is it easy to see leaks? 


OMG.....What did I get myself into?
Michael Powell
On 9/27/2021 at 9:02 PM, Flyinhy said:

Hi all, 

I'm a new owner of an 2001 executive 43ds. A 500hp cummins with an Allison 6spd. She's in decent shape for her age but I have to be honest. When it comes to electrical.....I'm not the greatest but I'm willing to learn.  I bought her to use as a second home while I'm out on job sites working instead of renting an apartment. Plus, I hope to one day retire and I wanted to travel......a win win right? Wrong!!

I'm an old mechanic and I can understand schematics (somewhat) ....

The coach cranks and runs fine.....but she's not charging. I took the alternator off ...a 200 amp leece neville.  Had it rebuilt and reinstalled it......nothing. I watched the man bench test this alternator and I know it's working like it should. What am I missing? I know this will be a working project but I didn't realize I would run into something the first week that made me scratch my head and say....huh?  I've been reading a lot of posts on here and I'm sure someone knows what I doing wrong. 

I have a Monaco and driving down the road sometimes I get the Battery light go on if I turn on my parking lights it goes off... Monaco has a relay kit to fix that I haven't done that but my coach is charging fine...


Towing with the ISC
Ivylog

Yes, above the starter and a leak will put a small puddle on a hard surface.


Towing with the ISC
jacwjames
46 minutes ago, tmw188 said:

Where is this lift pump located, above the starter? Is it easy to see leaks? 

Todd,

I was aware of the potential problem for years.  Cummins actually had a TSB on it.  So anytime I was under the coach I would inspect.  The transfer pump is directly above the starter.  But the problem is that if it is a small leak none would be easily visible.  You would probably be better pulling the small hatch in the bedroom and doing a wipe test on the fuel pump. 

The problem isn't necessarily the leak but when the pump isn't running while driving down the road you are probably sucking air which will cause problems with the injector pump.

Last Nov I was doing some work on my coach, I did a lube job and decided to take and fill it with fuel.  When I got back I decided to clean the jack stems as they came up very slow.  Crawled underneath and found the fuel pump dripping, couldn't miss it.  Tightened the 3 bolts on top which stopped the leak but after seeing more and more posts on injector pump problems I decided to install the FASS system.   


Towing with the ISC
Cubflyer

Yes, Lift pump is above the starter. 

My experience with a 'leaking lift pump' the pump was fine, but the gasket between the pump and the housing it is bolted to was bad.

The leak first showed up as a dampness on the starter and bellhousing.  Really 'showed' itself while I was t/s'ing a ABS light, that required me to cycle the ignition switch causing the pump to run without the engine running.  That created a puddle under the engine about 2 ft in diameter.

The pump is held to the housing with three bolts (8mm socket if I remember correctly) from the top, accessible with a long 1/4" extension (18").  Gasket gets old and hard, bolts loosen up and fuel can seep out and air can be drawn in (bad thing for the injector $ pump. 

I bypassed the stock lift pump by installing a union fitting with a pressure tap (1/8" pipe thread) in the fuel feed hose and pipe. Then replaced the 'primary filter' with a FASS pump and filter system.

I feel it was a great improvement in the fuel system, and highly recommend it. 

 


OMG.....What did I get myself into?
Ivylog
17 minutes ago, Michael Powell said:

I have a Monaco and driving down the road sometimes I get the Battery light go on if I turn on my parking lights it goes off... Monaco has a relay kit to fix that I haven't done that but my coach is charging fine...

This will happen when running the generator while traveling…2 charging sources and it’s normal. Yes, putting a load will lower the voltage and make the warning light go out.


Engine Temps rising again.
Ivylog

While 200+ degrees on level ground seems high, we’re you in a high headwind situation? Would explain the poorer mpg.


Towing with the ISC
Dr4Film

image.jpeg.fa27f3c45112c3b3983cdb8b0ef794f8.jpeg


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
Scotty Hutto

Moderators Note:  Some posts from this thread were split to a different thread on Lithium Batteries.


Engine Temps rising again.
ktloah

188' is not really hot for a diesel. Your speed shows almost 75mph, perhaps a slower speed should see lower water temps. That engine is working hard so the increase in temp. My Dynasty runs at 185-190..


Help Needed! 2009 Monaco Dynasty Nottingham IV Driving Light Diagram
bbralph

Thank you for all of the replies and comments, and a special thank you to Frank McElroy for the phone call to explain the likely causes of my issue to me!  This forum is a great source of information and knowledge.  I would definitely be lost without it.  Updates to come!


Engine Temps rising again.
JDCrow

Bros, when he slows down it heats up 


Engine/Trans Temps High Again
Gary M
3 hours ago, miacasa_2000 said:

I'd look long and hard into that ECM upgrade. Cummins will give you the correct parameters that you can take to a shop and have yours checked and or recalibrated to the proper specs. At least you would know.

Roy  2003 Dynasty   

Cummins in Idaho actually did the upgrade.


Engine Temps rising again.
Gary M
3 hours ago, JDCrow said:

I would think running at 2100 RPM would increase fuel consumption?

As far as temps, Fan clutch? Boost waste gate? Did you have a flush with the Rad cleaning?  That could lead to air lock. The steam clean could have damaged fins, or actually pushed gunk into the fins more, and thus air flow is now decreased. 
 

This is one if those problems that can lead to a lot of parts thrown at it with no rhyme or reason. 
 

I would fine a reputable shop and start with some diagnostics to see which sensors are working correctly. Perhaps a leak down test in the radiator. 

Well the shop was Cummins and I asked for a complete diagnostic but didn’t realize that it would be 50+ pages and they only gave me 5 pgs of which I sent to Frank. Thats when he told me they were basically screen shots. Ive been in contact with the Cummins shop but no response yet on whether they are going to email the actual file so Frank can plug it into his insite software.

38 minutes ago, ktloah said:

188' is not really hot for a diesel. Your speed shows almost 75mph, perhaps a slower speed should see lower water temps. That engine is working hard so the increase in temp. My Dynasty runs at 185-190..

Tried that. 75 mph at 2000 rpm flat ground gave me the 188 which is high normal temp usually at 60-65 mph and 1600-1700 rpm. Mine also used to run 185-190 at 60-65. When at 60-65 at 16-1700 it’s running 199-206.


Towing with the ISC
tmw188

Ok I’ll need to look for this. I did a major clean and wipe down around the engine especially on top of the bell housing underneath and around the oil pan and at the rear of the valve cover area. Didn’t know at the time that this could be the leak you’re speaking of. I have everything cleaned up now so I can monitor. I also put a bottle on the vent tube that hangs down along side the oil pan. Don’t know if we need to start a new thread it’s up to the monitors I guess. Probably shouldn’t go much further than it is now, if so we can start a new thread.


Engine Temps rising again.
ktloah

Interesting,  perhaps fan clutch, thermostat not opening? You got me stumped....I'd like to know what others find


Engine Temps rising again.
Gary M
38 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

Bros, when he slows down it heats up 

Thankyou JD


Engine Temps rising again.
JDCrow
18 minutes ago, Gary M said:

Well the shop was Cummins and I asked for a complete diagnostic but didn’t realize that it would be 50+ pages and they only gave me 5 pgs of which I sent to Frank. Thats when he told me they were basically screen shots. Ive been in contact with the Cummins shop but no response yet on whether they are going to email the actual file so Frank can plug it into his insite software.

Tried that. 75 mph at 2000 rpm flat ground gave me the 188 which is high normal temp usually at 60-65 mph and 1600-1700 rpm. Mine also used to run 185-190 at 60-65. When at 60-65 at 16-1700 it’s running 199-206.

Cummins NW? 


Air Intake Drain Hose I Assume
tmw188

While having the rear engine access door lifted on my O2 Windsor looking for the source of some water dripping. I noticed it was coming from a very small duckbill attached to a half inch garden style hose. I’m assuming that that is a drain for the air intake Plenum at the rear of the coach for this year model Windsor? The duckbill was clogged with dirt and debris I pulled it off the hose was clogged probably a good inch and a half to 2 inches up inside the hose, once cleared it completely drained out and cleared the hose of water. I’m on a trip returning from the Smoky Mountains. I drove a good day in a moderate rainfall on the first leg of the trip. So my question is is that what that hose runs up to is my assumption correct? From the looks of the debris it seems possible it’s never been cleared. Seems like a good way for the motor to ingest some water if this isn’t kept clear or at least get the filter wet. When my new filter finally arrives if it ever does I’ll be able to inspect the existing filter.

FBA6273A-1CBF-4A61-AD66-BBC1A41CD715.jpeg

9535259B-415A-4F06-A247-8E0E38610C63.jpeg


Engine Temps rising again.
Gary M
7 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

Cummins NW? 

Cummins in Boise, ID


Engine Temps rising again.
JDCrow
31 minutes ago, Gary M said:

Cummins in Boise, ID

Do you have a working relationship with a Cummins dealer? I’m not sure if Cummins works like auto dealers where everything gets entered into the big database and any dealer can pull records? 
 

As I posted earlier, airflow seems to be key. Which leads me to fan clutch, or wiring for fan. 
 

With other diesel manufacturers, the computers are linked to temp. So say thermostat doesn’t kick in then temp sensor cannot get accurate reading and computer doesn’t get the info it needs and won’t know about the fan. With the 6.0 power stroke I was just tinkering with, we dropped a higher temp thermostat in it. Well the engine stayed at 186 right at the temp of the thermostat, but it wouldn’t open and keep the pup cool. The computer kicks in at 193 to turn fan on. It wouldn’t get there. It messed it up. Dropping OEM thermostat back in to see if it helps. That truck was running 200-210, Which is a bit hot considering all the work we had done to it. 


No dash switches work
Brett63

Went to start the coach a few minutes ago and have no dash switch, door switch or passenger seat switches that are operational. Yes I have a chassis multiplex coach. Coach started right up and house batts are up. We have been on shore power for 3 weeks. 

I have 13.3v on all + lugs in the front run bay so I know power is getting there. But what would go down sitting plugged in to shore power that controls all dash switches? 

I know there are a couple good chassis multiplex people on here....lol


Engine Temps rising again.
Gary M
37 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

Do you have a working relationship with a Cummins dealer? I’m not sure if Cummins works like auto dealers where everything gets entered into the big database and any dealer can pull records? 
 

As I posted earlier, airflow seems to be key. Which leads me to fan clutch, or wiring for fan. 
 

With other diesel manufacturers, the computers are linked to temp. So say thermostat doesn’t kick in then temp sensor cannot get accurate reading and computer doesn’t get the info it needs and won’t know about the fan. With the 6.0 power stroke I was just tinkering with, we dropped a higher temp thermostat in it. Well the engine stayed at 186 right at the temp of the thermostat, but it wouldn’t open and keep the pup cool. The computer kicks in at 193 to turn fan on. It wouldn’t get there. It messed it up. Dropping OEM thermostat back in to see if it helps. That truck was running 200-210, Which is a bit hot considering all the work we had done to it. 

Well I quit working on motors when computers got involved. The last motor I rebuilt was a 1957 Mercedes Benz 4 cyl diesel in my sailboat. Easy peasy. Finally got ahold of Cummins Boise and while their words were encouraging, their voice was not. Im getting more and more confused on what I need from Cummins. Ill check back with our Frank and get a better word on what to ask Cummins.


10kw generator code 45
Flyinhy

I've been trying to start this generator for a few days with no luck. From what I've been reading on the "code 45" ....it isn't good. Does anyone have any experience with this code? 

I have several electrical issues but I'm just taking them one at a time. 


Charging problem???
Mike in Va

The inverter is a 9200 inteli-power by progressive dynamics and thats who I called. It is keeping my cabin batteries at 13.6 like it should, its the engine batteries that are showing 12.6 volts. I was thinking the engine batteries should maintain 13.6 also. The sides aren't bulging and I tested the acid on the cabin batteries and its fine. Maybe I added a little too much water and caused it boil over. I'm going to clean the area up and keep an eye on it. I noticed clubflyer's post and was wandering, If I put the SEA ML-ACR on my MH what happens to the boost button on the dash panel. Its it still connect to the batteries to help start or would I have to go back and switch the boost on and off. Thanks for your help.  

      

20210929_132932.jpg

20210929_132940.jpg


Towing with the ISC
Cubflyer

Image 1 - Cummins ISC 8.3 Engine; GOOD RUNNER!! CPL 2691;  260 Hp; 1CEXH0505CAO

My 8.3 ISC looks more like this.... the lift pump is hard to see but the three mounting bolts (vertical) on the housing that has the brass fitting by the bell housing and the silver colored hard line coming out the front going to the white fuel filter is easy to see.... 


Charging problem???
Cubflyer

Mike,

The Blue Sea has a remote control switch (I have yet to install it)  and there is a "both batteries combined" position (for starting).  Also an "either battery charged" if there is voltage higher than 'nominal battery voltage' so both batteries can be charged from one source, or the batteries can be isolated.... which is what I do if I'm running the engine (alternator) and any other charging source (invertor powered by shore or genny) so I'm not charging from two sources.

the original "Boost" switch is inop in my case, not needed or connected anymore.


Charging problem???
willbo777

When I installed our ML-ARC, I replaced the battery boost switch with the Blue Sea remote switch.  Found 2 wires from the RRB to the FRB and used those to connect to the switch.  It is superior to the boost switch as the lights in the Blue Sea switch let you know what position the ML-ARC is in.  Auto, connected, or disconnected.  Very pleased.


No dash switches work
Brett63

Well after talking to Chris at M&M it appears I now have a proverbial boat anchor. He can't trouble shoot over the phone, they can't work on it if they come to FL in the winter, they are working on plug and play repair compenents for the Kongsberg MUX, but they are not there yet and don't have a time line and I can't drive anywhere without any lights, turns, brakes, wipers or dash controls of any type....

I honestly don't know what to do or even where to turn to now. This is our home. 


10kw generator code 45
willbo777

image.thumb.png.79da7ac2e889431b48d2b88f837903b8.png


Generator DC input
Grampy OG

Hello my friends of the wrench,

I have been through my electrical schematics (green book) that came with my coach and I just can't seem to see where the generator actually connects to the chassis positive current. I see the connections on the backside of the generator but cannot for the life of me figure out where the d*** positive cable connects to the battery system. 

Any hints?

Thanks Ken

 


Generator DC input
Ivylog

Usually in the front run box.


No dash switches work
Ivylog

Boy, this sucks. While I understand how a multiplex system works… have no idea about the chassis  system’s components. Any chance the lights (power) in the round trailer plug on the hitch works?

Ofen problems with the house multiplex system were poor grounds. I would unhook and plug back in every connection I could find on the components, making sure it was firmly re-connected after checking for any corrosion.


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
milly59

well i plunged and bought 8 3.2V grade A 310ah batteries...and will install those they are saying 4 to 6 weeks delivery...shipping was free and i paid $545.

do i need 2 bms with 8 batteries? will do 4+4 to have the 12 volts.....anybody else installed those batteries? do they work as advertised...for the people that have installed them?


Towing with the ISC
tmw188

This is the lift pump?

02AD5735-AEA8-4CA4-887E-04E57656424C.png


Towing with the ISC
jacwjames

That's it,

You can see the top of it by lifting the small hatch in the bedroom. 


Sani-con 600S
PTTech
On 9/1/2021 at 3:18 AM, throgmartin said:

Brett:

We were a Sani Con dealer up till 2 months ago so did a lot of installations. I always ran 10 gauge wire back to the battery bay and included a 30 amp re-settable fuse. 

I do want to say we dropped the sani con line not because of quality issues but Thetfords new pricing structure which wiped out half our margins. The sani con turbo systems are the best on the market for macerators. When they went to the new pricing program I felt it wasn't worth our time to deal with them any more. At one time we moved more sani con systems then any other dealer in the country.

Do you know a good place to buy one of these systems online? Can't find  a dealer in the Seattle area


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
Ivylog
42 minutes ago, milly59 said:

do i need 2 bms with 8 batteries? will do 4+4 to have the 12 volts....

Did you read my first post at the beginning?


10kw generator code 45
Ivan K

Gotta love the codes that send you from stator to rotor to fuel supply to controller. Been there and needed a 12.5 stator. These are impossible to get but went across a very good priced new 10k stator for on ebay at that time if you end up like me. Wish you an easy fix!


10kw generator code 45
willbo777

Sure seems like CYA, doesn't it?


No dash switches work
Gary Cole

Might try disconnecting all 12V power for at least a minute. The reason that works so very often with electronic components is that over time capacitors, little batteries,  can and usually do acquire a charge and remain at that incorrect state due to  numerous reasons including accumulated software glitches. Disconnecting the power gives all capacitors sufficient time to discharge so that the system can restart from the boot command. Might be a long shot but it costs nothing to try. That is the reason tech support most always ask you if you have tried unplugging your tv or your blue tooth toaster first. 


Generator DC input
Ivan K
1 hour ago, Ivylog said:

Usually in the front run box.

That's how mine is too forward top corner of FRB on ours.


No dash switches work
Frank McElroy

Check fuse VCA-5.  This is on the FRB large PCB and is labeled Eaton switches.


Fuel tranfer pump on Cummins eng.
BobSchmeck

Has anyone had to change the fuel transfer pump.  Ours is leaking. I ordered one from Cummins $$$ pricey little bugger. $480 + tax & shipping. Been trying all day to get a price for labor with no luck. So it looks like I will have to do it myself.  Any advice is greatly appreciated.  

If you happen to know a mechanic in Farmington NM.  Send me his number.  🙃👍

Going on the 3rd night at Sam's Club parking lot. 

Photo 2.jpg


Air Intake Drain Hose I Assume
Dr4Film

Nope, wrong. That is your bedroom AC condensate drain line.

AFAIK there isn't any Air Intake drain that I have found any where.


No dash switches work
Brett63

I have disconnected all power and I mean all power...lol I have checked the VCA-5 fuse. 

According to M&M there are two master switch pods and the rest are slaves. The two masters are the gen start/stop and the mirror select. Chris said that becasue they are all very delicate to power fluctuations and becasue my house batts ran down he suspects either one of the masters or one of the slaves (can I even talk like this anymore) anyway one of the switch pods has died and is not letting anything work. There are no replacements. He did say they are working as we speak to design and develop plug and play parts for the MUX system, but as of right now there is nothing I can send them and nothing they can send me. They did say that they had two MUX coaches there that sounded like they were the test coaches for their development. There was no timeframe, he just said check back through the winter. He also said that if I was there they may be far enough on the project they could get me going.......BUT without any lights of anykind, trun, brake, headlighs, steeringwheel functions....etc there is no way to drive.

In the mean time I am going through each switch pod and removing and unplugging then checking with the pod out of the system in hopes I run into the bad one and can just leave it removed from the system. But that is a WAG as to whether that would even work, and then if it was one of the two masters it wouldn't matter. 

I honestly have no clue what to do or even where to turn, but it appears the answer to both is nothing and nowhere. 

I have a coach warranty, but without a fix there is nothing to warrant.


Charging problem???
Dr4Film

Install the ML-ACR and your troubles will be over. Don't know enough about your current specific charging system you have in your coach for both the house and chassis batteries. Some coaches do not have Chassis charging systems for when on shore or generator power but the ML-ACR will provide that for you.

Good luck with the project.


Fuel tranfer pump on Cummins eng.
JDCrow

Which engine? 
 

Looks like ISC Lift Pump. Just bypass it like did. Super easy 

 

https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/Diesel-Fuel-System/UP95G-Heavy-Duty-Lift-Pump-for-Cummins-ISC-ISL-CAPS-Fuel-System


Another head scratching question
Brett63

Today when I was unhooking everything ont he coach in order to try to do a rest on the MUX I found something I cannot explain, maybe someone here can.

I unplugged from shore pedestal, I opened both batt disconnect switches, I completely removed + battery cables from all batts (chassis and house), I turned of the solar controller, I turned off the inverter and charger.....I mean I unhooked and turned off everything. I was dead coach.......

BUT I still had 12v power in the front run box on the house side feeding the multiplex system.......Where is that power coming from.....lol I finally disconnected the + lead right at the computer in the FRB so that it had no power. But how with everything off and disconnected did I still have 12.5v in the FRB on the house side?

What am I missing


Fuel tranfer pump on Cummins eng.
Tim.dougherty@comcast.net

Truck shop I took mine to charged 3 hrs for the job, was at $90 hr.


Charging problem???
Mike in Va

 I think I will order the ML ACR and take care of this. So good to have all of this knowledge to help with problems like this. Thanks to all.


Fuel tranfer pump on Cummins eng.
BobSchmeck

Jd

Cummins 330hp 

Manufactured in 2020


Fuel tranfer pump on Cummins eng.
Hypoxia

Lots of us have had good luck removing it and tightening the 3 bolts that squeeze the gasket.  That fixed one on an ISC I owned.  Sometimes they leak through the electrical wire hole.  I don't know of a cure for that.

_Cummins-06T5-18-LiftPump.docx


Fuel tranfer pump on Cummins eng.
JDCrow
52 minutes ago, BobSchmeck said:

Jd

Cummins 330hp 

Manufactured in 2020

Ok then what I posted. Get rid of the problematic lift pump all together 

 

https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/Diesel-Fuel-System/UP95G-Heavy-Duty-Lift-Pump-for-Cummins-ISC-ISL-CAPS-Fuel-System

I can send some pics of the install if needed 


Another head scratching question
Frank McElroy

Well, you missed something.  Although you said the you turned off the solar, did you also pull the solar fuses at the house and chassis batteries?


Air Intake Drain Hose I Assume
tmw188
1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

Nope, wrong. That is your bedroom AC condensate drain line.

AFAIK there isn't any Air Intake drain that I have found any where.

No that condensate drain is on the left side and runs down much lower to the ground. This one is on the right side just inside the rear access door about head high. Look close you can see the drip on the left hose. A/C condensate drips on the left side. 

37BB9B33-B92C-4DC9-A4F0-75452D0F2BBD.jpeg

4BAD87CF-9507-4DA5-9DA3-4B7F94BD8CC0.jpeg


Another head scratching question
Brett63
16 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:

Well, you missed something.  Although you said the you turned off the solar, did you also pull the solar fuses at the house and chassis batteries?

no but it has to be the solar in some form.

 


Air Intake Drain Hose I Assume
Dr4Film

I am getting my coach ready for departure in two weeks. The engine hatch hasn't been opened up since arriving here in early May. I will have to look around closer on the right side to see if I can find anything that is similar to what you have. I've owned this coach for almost 18 years and the only water drips I have seen at the rear have been from the AC condensate on the left side.


Air Intake Drain Hose I Assume
tmw188

It’s the only obvious thing I can think of. That’s it toward the top in the photo. Not sure why it would need a duckbill on it though. 

2CB486CC-747A-4C38-AE6F-CE472280AF9B.jpeg


10kw generator code 45
Chargerman

Just experienced a code 45. Ended up having to replace the control board. Flight Systems has copies of the original. They accept returns with a 25% restocking fee within 30 days. Restocking will cost you about $125 but still a lot cheaper than hiring a tech to dig into it if it’s not the issue. 


Entry door
isptbart

My bushing was very worn out & I finally found it in the bottom of my door after disassembling. I turned a new one & installed & all work great with no issues from my DW! I later found a premade bushing from Lowes as follows: Lowes has a Hillman #215870 1/4x3/8x15  Package of two & they are about perfect for our needs!

Bart from VA                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                            07 HR 42PLQ, GMC 2500HD in tow                         

 


10kw generator code 45
Flyinhy
Just now, Chargerman said:

Just experienced a code 45. Ended up having to replace the control board. Flight Systems has copies of the original. They accept returns with a 25% restocking fee within 30 days. Restocking will cost you about $125 but still a lot cheaper than hiring a tech to dig into it if it’s not the issue. 

I've been doing some research and that's cheap compared to replacing the stator and rotor. This coach has been sitting a while and I have limited time during the day to work on it but little by little I'll figure it out. I have the original paperwork on it and all it says is contact cummins (onan) service......all I can see there is dollar signs floating out the window.....

There must be a procedure somewhere to eliminate potential items without just replacing parts. I could only be so lucky for that to be all that's wrong with it. The unit has 900 hrs on it. 

Thanks for the pointer......I'll check that tomorrow.

2 hours ago, Ivan K said:

Gotta love the codes that send you from stator to rotor to fuel supply to controller. Been there and needed a 12.5 stator. These are impossible to get but went across a very good priced new 10k stator for on ebay at that time if you end up like me. Wish you an easy fix!

Is there no way to eliminate problems without calling cummins? 

Everything I'm reading.....just like you're saying, could be 15 different things causing it not to turnover. 


Allison Shifting Issue
BradHend

Just purchased a 2005 Monaco Cayman a few weeks ago.  This problem never happened during our test drive, but the day I picked it up I noticed it when I parked it in the driveway.  It is very intermittent, but when it happens, it’s quite a nuisance.   I know temperature doesn’t seems to have a role in the issue.  Anyways, sometimes when shifting on the keypad from any gear position to another, even neutral, the service light comes on and the gear display goes dead.  Can’t do anything until a shut the engine down and restart. Sometimes it will be back to N, other times it stays dead until I press N twice, at which time the display reads NN.   Just not sure on how to proceed on this, aside from taking it in.  Quite annoying when needing to back in somewhere and I have to restart several times. Thanks for any input.  No issues otherwise that I can tell. 


10kw generator code 45
Chargerman

Onan is very protective of any information. You can’t even look at the parts list for your model on their site without a login. I just saw that the control board was a possible culprit with a code 45 and after searching practically everywhere for info without and luck I went for it and ordered the board. Fortunately it was the issue. My generator only has about 1200 hours on it. 


Fuel tranfer pump on Cummins eng.
Cubflyer

Bob S.

If that is a photo of your leaking pump, and it is not leaking on the ground, seems minor enough to continue... I unknowingly drove mine from South FL to Memphis with a pump leaking worse than that.... never mind if that is not a current photo...

ASAP, bypass that expensive pos with a FASS pump or FASS pump/filter system.....

Ken 


Towing with the ISC
Cubflyer

Yes, the cylinder like thing with the wires plugged into it on the bottom of that housing with the hose fittings  and three bolts thru it...

 


Sagging Roof 2
terry05dip

This is a old post. I am finally trying to decide to what to do about it. I live in Utah. Does anybody have a recommendation on a repair shop that can handle this? I was thinking about some shops around Coburg, Oregon. I am willing to travel for the right shop. Thanks for the replies.

 


Air Intake Drain Hose I Assume
Trinidaddave

Without the duckbill it would be clogged up with mud dauber’s and any other critter that makes its way to the tube


Is tire upgrade possible
pete.miller77

Ivylog, I see you're down on Michelin. What brand do you buy?


Air Intake Drain Hose I Assume
tmw188
14 minutes ago, Trinidaddave said:

Without the duckbill it would be clogged up with mud dauber’s and any other critter that makes its way to the tube

Makes sense I get that, I guess it’s more prone to mud daubers in its location compared to a hose much lower. I didn’t point my camera up there to see were it goes with more certainty yet but should have. 


Engine Temps rising again.
Trinidaddave

Sorry, I do not have much to add to the post.  Just for reference my CAT C-9 constantly runs at 198 deg. I do keep it between 55 and 60 MPH, but haven’t subjected it to high ambient temperatures or steep inclines. 
 

please post the resolution after you figure it out.

Thanks


Is tire upgrade possible
Ivylog
20 minutes ago, pete.miller77 said:

Ivylog, I see you're down on Michelin. What brand do you buy?

Ran nothing but Michelin for 40+ years until they would not stand behind the XRV tires (10+ years ago) that had serious blowout problems. Today there are plenty of good radial tires and Toyo and Hankook being at the top of my list for the rear. Have used Firestone and currently Continental 315s on the front… took off cracking Michelins when I bough the rig 3 years ago.

Currently there is a shortage of truck tires so not many choices. Decided I’d rolled the dice on the other 6 Michelin’s long enough and the only guaranteed fresh (2321) 11R22.5 my local guy could get and that he’s been using successfully were Americus, made in Thailand…$2247 out the door for 6 tires or $375 each. Asked if he would try and sell the Michelin’s… NO Way and rolled them to the junk pile shaking his head that I’d run them as long as I had. 


Fuel tranfer pump on Cummins eng.
BobSchmeck
1 hour ago, Cubflyer said:

Bob S.

If that is a photo of your leaking pump, and it is not leaking on the ground, seems minor enough to continue... I unknowingly drove mine from South FL to Memphis with a pump leaking worse than that.... never mind if that is not a current photo...

ASAP, bypass that expensive pos with a FASS pump or FASS pump/filter system.....

Ken 

Yes I noticed it leaking onto the ground.  Not supper bad. I  decided to get the pump for a little insurance.  Better safe than sorry. I  have about 600 miles to go without a major town near by. The leak is not very bad right now. Hope it holds till I get home. 

Cummins labor estimate finely came through $850 labor & shop supplies, just about shit my pants.  Total bill very close to $1,300. 

 


repair or replace broken toilet floor flange
Jim McGarvie

I guess all those bumpy roads over 20 years finally caused the weight of our toilet to break the floor flange where the closet bolts go through. I am inclined to use a repair ring, if I can find one, rather than replace it for two reasons: I have not yet been able to remove any of the 8 screws fastening the flange to the floor, and I'm afraid the flange might be cemented into the pipe leading to the holding tank.

I think something like this might be perfect, but I need slots for four closet bolts rather than just two, and so far I have been unable to find one:

https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-42778-Grommets-4-Inch-Stainless/dp/B003FX6ED6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=stainless+toilet+flange+ring&qid=1595854362&sr=8-3

Our toilet is a Dometic Sealand 511H.

Thank you for any suggestions!

Jim

B5FEFF80-D13A-45B5-90C6-DCC5170B6F3A_1_105_c.jpeg


Fuel tranfer pump on Cummins eng.
BobSchmeck
3 hours ago, Hypoxia said:

Lots of us have had good luck removing it and tightening the 3 bolts that squeeze the gasket.  That fixed one on an ISC I owned.  Sometimes they leak through the electrical wire hole.  I don't know of a cure for that.

_Cummins-06T5-18-LiftPump.docx 3.38 MB · 13 downloads

Darn, won't download.  

3 hours ago, JDCrow said:

Ok then what I posted. Get rid of the problematic lift pump all together 

 

https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/Diesel-Fuel-System/UP95G-Heavy-Duty-Lift-Pump-for-Cummins-ISC-ISL-CAPS-Fuel-System

I can send some pics of the install if needed 

Thanks for the information.  Will have to look at that. Cummins is getting a pump to me tomorrow.  I  hope. 

I'm going to proceed with my old pump,  but at least I have a spare incase of a major failure.  

The labor was ridiculous. 


repair or replace broken toilet floor flange
gdroberson

most of the time they are screwed on


Axle nut torque specs
Chuck Hefti

I just replaced the rear passenger side outward axle flange gasket and would like to know what the axle nuts(8 of them)torque specs are. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!20210928_182843.thumb.jpg.f160909ec6d52121548537bb6a2b0b30.jpg


Fuel tranfer pump on Cummins eng.
BobSchmeck
3 hours ago, JDCrow said:

Ok then what I posted. Get rid of the problematic lift pump all together 

 

https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/Diesel-Fuel-System/UP95G-Heavy-Duty-Lift-Pump-for-Cummins-ISC-ISL-CAPS-Fuel-System

I can send some pics of the install if needed 

It won't download or open.  😢


Fuel tranfer pump on Cummins eng.
JDCrow
2 minutes ago, BobSchmeck said:

It won't download or open.  😢

 

98A32752-7706-4E9E-9EE3-2E579369AB89.jpeg


Axle nut torque specs
Flyinhy

Should be 150-180 ft pounds 5/8 studs. Torque in a cross pattern too


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
waterskier_1
5 hours ago, milly59 said:

well i plunged and bought 8 3.2V grade A 310ah batteries...and will install those they are saying 4 to 6 weeks delivery...shipping was free and i paid $545.

do i need 2 bms with 8 batteries? will do 4+4 to have the 12 volts.....anybody else installed those batteries? do they work as advertised...for the people that have installed them?

I recommend two BMS, because I recommend you build two batteries.   Note that a battery is made up one or more cells.  One reason I say this is because you'll not likely be able to lift and install the battery if it contains all 8 cell (est. about 100 lbs).  You could use one BMS if you put all the cells in a single battery, but you will have to limit charge and discharge currents since I'm not aware of any BMS's rated for 600 Amps. 

I have not use those batteries - they are relatively new on the lower cost market, and don't have a sufficient quality record yet.   My recommendation is to order only new, Grade "A",  tested and matched, cells from a reliable supplier.  There are many unscrupulous sellers who are selling seconds, unmatched seal removed, and often used cells.  If your ordering a large quantity (over 100) cheap enough, you can test them, match their internal resistance, and capacity and hand select cells to put together, some have found good results.  Most of us don't have the time or interest mush less the text equipment to do that. 


Fuel tranfer pump on Cummins eng.
Hypoxia
23 minutes ago, BobSchmeck said:

Darn, won't download.  

Thanks for the information.  Will have to look at that. Cummins is getting a pump to me tomorrow.  I  hope. 

I'm going to proceed with my old pump,  but at least I have a spare incase of a major failure.  

The labor was ridiculous. 

 

_Cummins-06T5-18-LiftPump.pdf


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
Dear LaserWorks
On 9/28/2021 at 3:39 PM, waterskier_1 said:

I have not been able to tell if the Victron DC/DC Charger is able to allow charging chassis battery from shore power.  Not many would want to do this, but it would be good to know.

I personally don't recommend this.  Yes, it will protect your alternator, but it still only provides 14.4 (or whatever your alternator charging voltage is) to the Lithium batteries, even if only on for 15 minutes and off for 20 minutes.  The Victron DC/DC Charger is a full fledged 3-stage battery charger.

Rick, how do you wire in a DC-DC charger and retain the ability to boost with both batteries if needed?


repair or replace broken toilet floor flange
Jim McGarvie
35 minutes ago, gdroberson said:

most of the time they are screwed on

Thanks, Gary. That would help, but I would still need to be able to remove those eight screws in order to unscrew the flange from the pipe.


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
JDCrow
7 minutes ago, Dear LaserWorks said:

Rick, how do you wire in a DC-DC charger and retain the ability to boost with both batteries if needed?

You don’t to my knowledge. The link to the battle born site with the isolator may be the ticket. I honestly didn’t want the bird anymore. I can use the toad and jumper cables if needed I figure 


repair or replace broken toilet floor flange
gdroberson

I took a piece of 1 x 2  and a 3/8 dowel and drilled two holes in it and inserted the dowel sticking out about a 1/2 inch so that the dowels fit in the two cot outs that is in the flange used the 1x2 as a spanner wrench to unscrew and screw the new one back own

and by the way you couldn't

tell it was screwed on just by looking

I took a dremel tool  with a grinding disk on it and cut a slot so I could use a big screwdriver to get them out


Axle nut torque specs
vito.a

Are they 5/8" or 1/2"?  Size of the stud, not the hex nut. 

Grade 8, 1/2"NF is 90 ft. lbs.  

I used this chart:

Bolt Depot - US Recommended Bolt Torque Table


Axle nut torque specs
Chuck Hefti

They are 1/2".


Axle nut torque specs
Chuck Hefti
40 minutes ago, Flyinhy said:

Should be 150-180 ft pounds 5/8 studs. Torque in a cross pattern too

Congratulations on your recent purchase. Yeah I know what you mean. There's never a dull moment good or bad but the hard work we all put into these machines is out weighed by all of the good moments and memories made.

26 minutes ago, vito.a said:

Are they 5/8" or 1/2"?  Size of the stud, not the hex nut. 

Grade 8, 1/2"NF is 90 ft. lbs.  

I used this chart:

Bolt Depot - US Recommended Bolt Torque Table

Thanks Vito for the chart!


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
waterskier_1
55 minutes ago, Dear LaserWorks said:

Rick, how do you wire in a DC-DC charger and retain the ability to boost with both batteries if needed?

There is no elegant solution test I know of.   I'm not at much computer right now, so not sure what you currently have.  If you are only looking for boost, you might be able to use what the coach came with, but inhibit the alternator charging of the house battery.  If,  on the other hand, you are looking to charge the chassis from the house lithium batteries, the only thing I can think of is Amp-L- Start or Echo Start type device, and I'm not sure about that due to voltage differences.  I personally only have the boost function, but use solar for charging my chassis when not driving. 


Charging problem???
MrAmbassador

My 2007 Ambassador is not designed for the inverter to charge the Chassis batteries, but only the House batteries. Yes, the answer is the ML-ACR. 


Fuel tranfer pump on Cummins eng.
BobSchmeck

Here's what I just learned. 

My brother just explained this to me.  

It’s for an ISC or a ISL engine.. you have a B- 5.9 liter engine. Also a whole different fuel system. Won’t work for your set up.

The pump that JD posted won't work for my engine.  


Fuel tranfer pump on Cummins eng.
JDCrow
17 minutes ago, BobSchmeck said:

Here's what I just learned. 

My brother just explained this to me.  

It’s for an ISC or a ISL engine.. you have a B- 5.9 liter engine. Also a whole different fuel system. Won’t work for your set up.

The pump that JD posted won't work for my engine.  

Sorry about that, I'm used to a 330 Cummins being an ISC, my 02 Dip is an ISC. There are FASS or AIRDOG systems for ISB, probably more so since there were a whole lot of 5.9s floating out there


Low Air Alert While Underway
FWGERHART

Recently while driving in slow traffic I received a low air alert. As soon as I was back on the interstate at 60mph everything was back to normal. In the morning as the rig was airing up I noticed it was taking longer then usual. And when it finally did air up completely the “blast” of air was prolonged. Not just a short blast as normal but a much longer blast duration. Any thoughts? 


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