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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/561-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Engine Temps rising again.
Gary M
Low Air Alert While Underway
Flyinhy
Sagging Roof 2
Dr4Film
Axle nut torque specs
Ivylog
Charging problem???
Dr4Film
Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
Ivylog
Charging problem???
Grampy OG
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
willbo777
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
willbo777
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs
Engine Temps rising again.
Rikadoo
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
willbo777
Fuel tranfer pump on Cummins eng.
Cubflyer
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Chuck B
Engine Temps rising again.
JDCrow
Fuel tranfer pump on Cummins eng.
JDCrow
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
CountryB
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
vito.a
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Chuck B
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs
Charging problem???
Dr4Film
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Fonman
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Ivan K
10kw generator code 45
Ivan K
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
vito.a
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
JohnC3
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs
Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
waterskier_1
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
willbo777
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs
Engine Temps rising again.
Rikadoo
Engine Temps rising again.
JDCrow
Engine Temps rising again.
Gary M
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Chargerman
Dash air probl
saflyer
Low Air Alert While Underway
Fonman
Dash air probl
waterskier_1
Dash air probl
Dr4Film
Low Air Alert While Underway
Gary 05 AMB DST
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Chuck B
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Chargerman
Generator DC input
Grampy OG
Charging problem???
Grampy OG
Charging problem???
Dr4Film

New Posts

Engine Temps rising again.
Gary M
5 hours ago, Trinidaddave said:

Sorry, I do not have much to add to the post.  Just for reference my CAT C-9 constantly runs at 198 deg. I do keep it between 55 and 60 MPH, but haven’t subjected it to high ambient temperatures or steep inclines. 
 

please post the resolution after you figure it out.

Thanks

No problem. Plan to if it’s figured out.


Low Air Alert While Underway
Flyinhy

Anytime I start losing air pressure like that in a truck (I'm new to the RV world) I always do a brake pressure test. While stopped, apply the brakes and check to see if you have continuous air loss. If not , try adjusting the air governor. The long blast of air is the dryer releasing excessive air. It could also be stuck or in need of service. 


Sagging Roof 2
Dr4Film

Elite Renovation & Repair in Harrisburg Oregon just north of Coburg.

Ex-Monaco techs who really know their stuff!

You won't be disappointed.

https://eliternr.com/


Axle nut torque specs
Ivylog

My shade tree answer was 100 before reading the other posts as it’s not something I’ve ever used a torque wrench on. 


Charging problem???
Dr4Film
17 hours ago, Mike in Va said:

The inverter is a 9200 inteli-power by progressive dynamics and thats who I called. It is keeping my cabin batteries at 13.6 like it should, its the engine batteries that are showing 12.6 volts. I was thinking the engine batteries should maintain 13.6 also. The sides aren't bulging and I tested the acid on the cabin batteries and its fine. Maybe I added a little too much water and caused it boil over. I'm going to clean the area up and keep an eye on it. I noticed clubflyer's post and was wandering, If I put the SEA ML-ACR on my MH what happens to the boost button on the dash panel. Its it still connect to the batteries to help start or would I have to go back and switch the boost on and off. Thanks for your help.  

      

20210929_132932.jpg

 

Mike,

I looked up your brand and model to see what the specs were and this unit is a Converter/Charger NOT an Inverter/Charger.

All it does is provide 12 VDC to your 12 VDC devices plus charge your House Batteries.

It has four stages of battery charging, Boost, Normal, Storage & Equalization. Here is the explanation of each stage.

https://www.progressivedyn.com/pd9200-converter/


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
Ivylog

When I built 6-100AH batteries out of 26 cells I matched them up and kept the 2 extra as spares if a cell goes bad. With only 8 cells it will be harder to get as good a match.

At the current prices, I really don’t care that a 310AH cell is only 300AH. Over time a BMS will match the cells within the battery.

Less than a year ago it cost me $1200 to build 600AH of Lithiums. Today for $1200 I can build 1200+AH.

 


Charging problem???
Grampy OG
On 9/29/2021 at 3:49 AM, Dr4Film said:

What is the brand and model of your Inverter/Charger?

What "manufacturer" did you talk with about the problem?

AFAIK once the batteries attain "Float" SOC the Inverter will just maintain them at that level. If the batteries are being overcharged and boiling water off, it may be a sign of a problem some place other than the charger.

Are your batteries bulging at the sides at all?

I have Water Miser Caps on my House Batteries and sometimes when I check fluid levels I will see a small amount of moisture escaping from the top of the caps.

You can use your DVOM to take measurements of the voltage levels when the Batteries are fully charged & when they are needing to be charged.

I researched your mention of Water Miser caps. I like the concept. You mentioned moisture escaping. Aren't these supposed to prevent that? I was thinking of a watering system until I saw your post. Do you think the WM caps are a better choice?

Thanks Ken

 


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs

A few months ago I noticed my AH 600D front zone was blowing cool air. All other zones working properly.  The unit was serviced about 12 months ago and had been working well for over three years. Serviced every year for past three years.

  1. No faults shown on control board. Indicator lights on and glowing green. 
  2. I have the original circulation pumps and the pump for the front zone (circulation pump #3) is spinning, but a bit noisy. 
  3. Couch side supply line feels cool to the touch before and after check valve, while other zone lines are warm.
  4. Tapped the check valve several times without success. 
  5. Tried heating on 50 amp and diesel burner, no difference.
  6. Did re-set on five button CCC thermostat, but no change.
  7. Fluid level in AH expansion tank is good.
  8. I opened the outlet hose connection on the circulation pump, thinking it might be air locked. Fluid leaked out but was only a trickle.
  9. I swapped the engine preheat circulation pump with the front zone pump (circulation pump 3), thinking the pump was bad. Swapped pump spinning but still no heat.

    Anything else I can do before taking it to the dreaded RV dealer?

2008 Dynasty Squire 


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
willbo777

I would really tap on the check valve, sounds like it's stuck.


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs

Did that. See point #4. I hit it pretty hard with a hammer several times. 


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
willbo777

From what you describe it seems that the check valve is stuck or corroded closed.  If you replaced the pump and it still didn't work, it seems the loop to the front is blocked.  I had a friend that had to replace his check valve as all the tapping in the world wouldn't loosen it.  You could try bypassing the check valve to see.  Just an idea.


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs

That’s a good idea. The thing is the hose coming out of the circulation pump and running up to check valve is cool to the touch and soft. If it were a closed check valve, wouldn’t this hose be hot and firm?


Engine Temps rising again.
Rikadoo

Ok so my question is when you took it in for "service" what all did they do? Things I know of cooling systems is, coolant less than 50/50 can create issue (example is less coolant more water cooling increases cavitation) so start with checking the concentration of coolant, another is a pressure cap failure or wrong pressure cap, did they replace the cap, when the engine is cold remove the cap and look at the rubber seal, is it cracked or distorted, (if a pressure cap cannot maintain pressure the boiling point drops more boiling less cooling) Use a tester and see just what the pressure is "holding" at. Next you said they steam cleaned the radiator, is it a rear mount radiator ? if so was the radiator restricted from the slobber tube and when they steam cleaned it did grease get on the belt? Being a cummins is the tensioner takin a dump? the ones I worked on as it starts to fail they will start to not run true in line with the belt, in a short while the belt shreds loosing tension just before the belt rips off. and lastly MANY a technician has been lured into a overheating problem only to discover that the sender has become biased, Is the engine really overheating? I know this sounds like im not possibly understanding the situation, but these are all the basics, and in my time as a mechanic I found many have failed to check the basics cause many want to believe the issue couldn't be that simple. Lastly can you read your EGT's its a long shot however restricted exhaust can cause higher engine temps, (the 7.3 power stroke uses a program to restrict exhaust when cold to keep more heat in the engine to warm up faster) Diagnosise is about eliminating possibility's. Lastly is the software upgrade, what was the intent? usually lets say if the engine is perhaps not "clean" at the tailpipe due to incomplete combustion temps its not beneath the engineers to increase engine temps to help scavenge better. With Ford after a reprogram if we developed issues we could call engineering for a definition as to what they were trying to achieve. Though I haven't tried it before what if you enter the software vs to the internet and see if anything pops up... 


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
willbo777

I would think so, but if you have tried 2 different pumps in that position, I don't see how it could be anything else.


Fuel tranfer pump on Cummins eng.
Cubflyer

Bob S,

What??  I don't want to challenge your brother.... but if the photo you sent is of your engine and you have a 2001 Dip...... you have a Cummins 8.3 ISC 330 hp engine.

https://www.rvroundtable.com/wp-content/uploads/Monaco/Diplomat-LE/2001.Diplomatle.pdf  see page 4

https://www.nadaguides.com/RVs/2001/Monaco

Ken

 

 


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Chuck B

I never have been a Aqua Hot fan because it is a over a $10,000 option.  Then there is the annual maintenance cost.  My two floor ducted furnaces keep us just as warm.  We always had hot water from our hot water heater.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Engine Temps rising again.
JDCrow
43 minutes ago, Rikadoo said:

Ok so my question is when you took it in for "service" what all did they do? Things I know of cooling systems is, coolant less than 50/50 can create issue (example is less coolant more water cooling increases cavitation) so start with checking the concentration of coolant, another is a pressure cap failure or wrong pressure cap, did they replace the cap, when the engine is cold remove the cap and look at the rubber seal, is it cracked or distorted, (if a pressure cap cannot maintain pressure the boiling point drops more boiling less cooling) Use a tester and see just what the pressure is "holding" at. Next you said they steam cleaned the radiator, is it a rear mount radiator ? if so was the radiator restricted from the slobber tube and when they steam cleaned it did grease get on the belt? Being a cummins is the tensioner takin a dump? the ones I worked on as it starts to fail they will start to not run true in line with the belt, in a short while the belt shreds loosing tension just before the belt rips off. and lastly MANY a technician has been lured into a overheating problem only to discover that the sender has become biased, Is the engine really overheating? I know this sounds like im not possibly understanding the situation, but these are all the basics, and in my time as a mechanic I found many have failed to check the basics cause many want to believe the issue couldn't be that simple. Lastly can you read your EGT's its a long shot however restricted exhaust can cause higher engine temps, (the 7.3 power stroke uses a program to restrict exhaust when cold to keep more heat in the engine to warm up faster) Diagnosise is about eliminating possibility's. Lastly is the software upgrade, what was the intent? usually lets say if the engine is perhaps not "clean" at the tailpipe due to incomplete combustion temps its not beneath the engineers to increase engine temps to help scavenge better. With Ford after a reprogram if we developed issues we could call engineering for a definition as to what they were trying to achieve. Though I haven't tried it before what if you enter the software vs to the internet and see if anything pops up... 

Exactly, tons of variables. We just did a complete flush on pops 6.4 Because he took it in for a wrench light. I told him to do thermostats with it, he didn’t want to go through the trouble. So he replaced oil temp sensor, coolant temp sensor and was about ready to tackle an oil cooler. I asked him one last time, did you replace the thermostats? He said no only has 130k. Needless to say he took off for hunting, got 30 miles, came back in limp mode. Took thermostats out, one was completely broke and blocking the hose.

So agree, pressure test and diagnostics while running to see what’s in/out of spec. 


Fuel tranfer pump on Cummins eng.
JDCrow
34 minutes ago, Cubflyer said:

Bob S,

What??  I don't want to challenge your brother.... but if the photo you sent is of your engine and you have a 2001 Dip...... you have a Cummins 8.3 ISC 330 hp engine.

https://www.rvroundtable.com/wp-content/uploads/Monaco/Diplomat-LE/2001.Diplomatle.pdf  see page 4

https://www.nadaguides.com/RVs/2001/Monaco

Ken

 

 

LOL, I wasn’t going there. Lift pump is totally different on an ISB. Also I believe stock those years ISB is only 300hp. Could look at hitch? 10k towing is an ISC. lots of different Configs that float around in MH for sure. 
 

Just pop the hatch and see if ISC in on the valve cover? 

46AC03D2-A9ED-417C-9536-ADFB1F636C94.jpeg


repair or replace broken toilet floor flange
bobdinsmore

Adding to Gary Roberson's suggestion: Use an Impact Driver , starting at low torques, to start moving the screws without snapping them off. Be patient and go in both backward and forward directions. Gradually increase torque so you don't ruin screw slots. Push down very hard as you go.

If you don't own the Dremel or the Driver, Harbor Freight has inexpensive ones that will do the job. A good investment even if you will never use these again.

 

 


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
CountryB

Delete


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
vito.a

Paul, it sure sounds like the check valve.  What else could it be?

It wouldn't hurt to install a new one.  Cold weather is coming on and the dealer service is backed up for some time.  

Chuck, yes a propane furnace will work just fine. However, the Aqua Hot provides unlimited hot water and can run from 120v electric, diesel (150 gallons onboard), or will even produce heat from just driving or running the main engine.  Also, the heat is different from a propane furnace.  Propane superheats the air and dries it out where as the Aqua Hot does not.  Much easier on the skin and lungs.  It's one of those things that you don't know what you are missing until you use it.  


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Chuck B

Yes Vito, your missing a lot of things when it does not work.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor.


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs

My front zone isn’t working, but all the others are and I still have unlimited hot water. 


repair or replace broken toilet floor flange
Jim McGarvie
1 hour ago, bobdinsmore said:

Adding to Gary Roberson's suggestion: Use an Impact Driver , starting at low torques, to start moving the screws without snapping them off. Be patient and go in both backward and forward directions. Gradually increase torque so you don't ruin screw slots. Push down very hard as you go.

If you don't own the Dremel or the Driver, Harbor Freight has inexpensive ones that will do the job. A good investment even if you will never use these again.

 

 

Thanks Gary and Bob, I will try the Dremel and impact driver tricks.


Charging problem???
Dr4Film

Ken,

A manual watering system is OK but the auto-watering ones are not. They cannot be trusted!

I prefer using the Water Miser Caps as it reduces the times I have to add water to the batteries. The caps do not prevent water from escaping completely hence the need to add water a few times per year versus once a month without the Water Miser Caps.

JMHO


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Fonman

Your #8 comment has me confused.

Having trouble visualizing at what point you are checking for flow. After the pump or check valve?

Actually a cold hose is exactly what I would expect. Seems like the pumps are flow oriented not pressure so soft doesn’t surprise me.

I would for sure find a qualified Aquahot hot guy if you take it in. Regular RV service departments are likely give you an appt weeks out and then throw their hands up when you finally get a turn. This is not meant as a slam on dealers, by the way.

 


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Ivan K
53 minutes ago, Pduggs said:

My front zone isn’t working, but all the others are and I still have unlimited hot water.

If you can swap the pumps, you are certainly qualified to swap or eliminate the valve, if only for a test. I would also consider swapping the zone hose to an other zone and eliminate blockage/kink in the plumbing that way, whatever is easier.


10kw generator code 45
Ivan K

I used Cummins/Onan service manual where they list resistance values and tests for the various windings but the problems is with needing really precise meters to measure really small resistance values and really big isolation values correctly. At the end I found my burned winding visually which of course took a complete disassembly of the unit. Hope not your case.


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs
26 minutes ago, Fonman said:

Your #8 comment has me confused.

Having trouble visualizing at what point you are checking for flow. After the pump or check valve?

Actually a cold hose is exactly what I would expect. Seems like the pumps are flow oriented not pressure so soft doesn’t surprise me.

I would for sure find a qualified Aquahot hot guy if you take it in. Regular RV service departments are likely give you an appt weeks out and then throw their hands up when you finally get a turn. This is not meant as a slam on dealers, by the way.

 

Thanks for your response.
 

The pump outlet hose is the vertical hose running from the pump to the check valve. This hose is not hot, nor is the hose after the check valve. The hose between the pump and check valve IS hot on the other two house heating zones, as are the hoses after the check valve. 
 

This is why I didn’t suspect the check valve. But as others have stated, it’s easy to replace that valve or bypass it just to make sure. 
 

Regarding dealers, I’ve not had a good experience with them, not that I’ve used that many. If anyone knows a good AH shop or technician, please let me know. 

26 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

If you can swap the pumps, you are certainly qualified to swap or eliminate the valve, if only for a test. I would also consider swapping the zone hose to an other zone and eliminate blockage/kink in the plumbing that way, whatever is easier.

Thanks for your response. I will replace the check valve. 

When I swapped pumps I carefully examined the pump inlet and outlet. Both were clean. 

I must have a blockage somewhere. The check valve is the most likely culprit. 


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
vito.a

John Carrillo is one of the best Aqua Hot technicians.  He helped me last year with an intermittent issue.  His shop is across the street from the Aqua Hot factory.  

He also has good pricing on parts.  

https://heatmyrv.com/

CONTACT JOHN CARRILLO   (970) 518-3085

Heat My RV
8245 W I-25 Frontage Rd Unit #5
Frederick, CO 80516
jcarrillo@HeatMyRV.com


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
JohnC3

If you have a blocked check valve, it would be full of cold coolant when4the pump started. If the hose is blocked, the heated coolant cant enter the hose to heat it.


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs
1 minute ago, JohnC3 said:

If you have a blocked check valve, it would be full of cold coolant when4the pump started. If the hose is blocked, the heated coolant cant enter the hose to heat it.

Yeah that makes sense. Thanks. 


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
waterskier_1
16 hours ago, Dear LaserWorks said:

Rick, how do you wire in a DC-DC charger and retain the ability to boost with both batteries if needed?

I have looked at the wiring diagrams I have.  I don't have a good copy for 2000 Diplomat, but found one for a 2002 which I think is the same as far as the Boost Circuit goes.  I believe the purple wire going to the Isolator Relay (R6 in my drawing) is the input from the Boost Switch on the Dash.  That Isolation Relay connects the Chassis and House Batteries together.  It is there primarily to charge the house batteries from the alternator, and secondarily to add the Boost function.  The Red wire from the Isolator Delay Module which has a yellow wire going up the the FRB is the control to make the Isolator Relay connect both sets of batteries together.  You no longer want that function (alternator charging the house batteries) so that wire should be removed from the Isolator Relay and securely taped or better yet heat shrink over the end so it can't short out.  That will leave only the 16 gauge purple (violet) wire on one terminal, a ground wire on another, and the two big 2/0 Red cables, one to each battery bank connected to the Isolator Relay.  This will allow the Boost switch to engage that Isolator Relay, but not the alternator charging circuit.  

One thing to note, most people are replacing this relay with the Blue Sea ML-ACR device, which does have a feature called Boost, but it won't work with the DC/DC Charger installed.  I realize that this isn't the greatest way to accomplish your goal of Boost, but it doesn't require any new hardware.  

If it were me, I'd just carry a set of Jumper Cables, and jump the two batteries together if that is ever needed.  To be perfectly honest, the only time I had to do this, and I did not have Lithium batteries for the house yet, I used my Jeep to jump the chassis battery.  In that case, my Chassis batteries (2- 12Volt) were shot, and I was dry camping and didn't want to use my house batteries, and wasn't sure they would jump my Detroit Diesel in any case.  

Please ask if you have more questions.


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
willbo777

I don't know where you are but Rudy Leggett near Houston is fantastic.


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs

In Michigan now. Heading for Florida in a month. 


Engine Temps rising again.
Rikadoo

Hey JD so i read your story on pops 6.4, good find…BUT! If he still has that truck and you havnt done what im about to tell you your going to want to get it back.

So the upper radiator hose where it conneted to the t stat housing, the big plastic part was it black or white? If its black dont pass go go directly to FORD and get this new hose AC3Z-8260-A (or quick # KM-5058) or if it has the white plastic on the end of the hose then go to Ford an buy 3 of these O-rings BC3Z-8590-PA  (or RTS-1077 quick #) 

If you have the black hose then remove both ends (tstat end an radiator) then throw that as far as you can, what i used to do prior to installing the new one is to use a piece of scotchbrite an lightly clean both hose nipples, i would then put a slight amount of dielectric on them, install the hose an refill.

if you have the white end on the hose then remove both ends of the radiator hose an use a pic and replace the o rings two on one end an one one the other, then prep both nipples like you did above reinstall an refill.

If you already did either or then kindly disregaurd this text😎

Those black hoses only used one o ring an would leak an most people wouldnt catch it till the coolant got so low by then it was too late.

Another huge issue was the lower radiator hose wher it connected to the water pump. It too should be white at the WP end, if not its a 8C3Z-8075-C the reason that one is so important is the black ends only use 1 o ring and once they were no longer soft an supple they would allow air to get past it then cause cavitation and it rots out the timing cover plate, an while your rollin down the road all the coolant gets pumped directly into the lubrication system, thats when it really gets ugly!!! Dont get me wrong they can be PITA to get to but its worth the trouble. As a Ford tech i made more hours repairing those damm engines than you can shake two sticks at.

Lookin forward to hearing more about your remodel upgrade👍


Engine Temps rising again.
JDCrow
15 minutes ago, Rikadoo said:

Hey JD so i read your story on pops 6.4, good find…BUT! If he still has that truck and you havnt done what im about to tell you your going to want to get it back.

So the upper radiator hose where it conneted to the t stat housing, the big plastic part was it black or white? If its black dont pass go go directly to FORD and get this new hose AC3Z-8260-A (or quick # KM-5058) or if it has the white plastic on the end of the hose then go to Ford an buy 3 of these O-rings BC3Z-8590-PA  (or RTS-1077 quick #) 

If you have the black hose then remove both ends (tstat end an radiator) then throw that as far as you can, what i used to do prior to installing the new one is to use a piece of scotchbrite an lightly clean both hose nipples, i would then put a slight amount of dielectric on them, install the hose an refill.

if you have the white end on the hose then remove both ends of the radiator hose an use a pic and replace the o rings two on one end an one one the other, then prep both nipples like you did above reinstall an refill.

If you already did either or then kindly disregaurd this text😎

Those black hoses only used one o ring an would leak an most people wouldnt catch it till the coolant got so low by then it was too late.

Another huge issue was the lower radiator hose wher it connected to the water pump. It too should be white at the WP end, if not its a 8C3Z-8075-C the reason that one is so important is the black ends only use 1 o ring and once they were no longer soft an supple they would allow air to get past it then cause cavitation and it rots out the timing cover plate, an while your rollin down the road all the coolant gets pumped directly into the lubrication system, thats when it really gets ugly!!! Dont get me wrong they can be PITA to get to but its worth the trouble. As a Ford tech i made more hours repairing those damm engines than you can shake two sticks at.

Lookin forward to hearing more about your remodel upgrade👍

Thanks for heads up. We did both hoses when I did a Mishimoto Rad and new intercooler with boots a few years back. It lost weight from some coolers and exhaust right after he bought it new. Right now he went to get the trans Serviced and the shop claims the case is cracked. Never heard of the 5sp ever cracking. I understand it’s a very good trans. 


Engine Temps rising again.
Gary M
6 hours ago, Rikadoo said:

Ok so my question is when you took it in for "service" what all did they do? Things I know of cooling systems is, coolant less than 50/50 can create issue (example is less coolant more water cooling increases cavitation) so start with checking the concentration of coolant, another is a pressure cap failure or wrong pressure cap, did they replace the cap, when the engine is cold remove the cap and look at the rubber seal, is it cracked or distorted, (if a pressure cap cannot maintain pressure the boiling point drops more boiling less cooling) Use a tester and see just what the pressure is "holding" at. Next you said they steam cleaned the radiator, is it a rear mount radiator ? if so was the radiator restricted from the slobber tube and when they steam cleaned it did grease get on the belt? Being a cummins is the tensioner takin a dump? the ones I worked on as it starts to fail they will start to not run true in line with the belt, in a short while the belt shreds loosing tension just before the belt rips off. and lastly MANY a technician has been lured into a overheating problem only to discover that the sender has become biased, Is the engine really overheating? I know this sounds like im not possibly understanding the situation, but these are all the basics, and in my time as a mechanic I found many have failed to check the basics cause many want to believe the issue couldn't be that simple. Lastly can you read your EGT's its a long shot however restricted exhaust can cause higher engine temps, (the 7.3 power stroke uses a program to restrict exhaust when cold to keep more heat in the engine to warm up faster) Diagnosise is about eliminating possibility's. Lastly is the software upgrade, what was the intent? usually lets say if the engine is perhaps not "clean" at the tailpipe due to incomplete combustion temps its not beneath the engineers to increase engine temps to help scavenge better. With Ford after a reprogram if we developed issues we could call engineering for a definition as to what they were trying to achieve. Though I haven't tried it before what if you enter the software vs to the internet and see if anything pops up... 

1. Engine service

2. Genny service

3. ECM printout ( because Ive had regen issues) Frank and Tom suggested it. DPF plugged once on the road. October 2019.

4. Rear Radiator steam cleaned as I lost diesel fuel which coated underneath and Im sure the radiator. 1year ago. Its a habit now to clean. SCA’s good.

5. ECM software update of which I was not told till I picked it up. My VGT Actuator  died last November and it got a software update then also. Different shop. I’m saving responses as should I make it home(so to speak), Ill dump all this on my mechanic since I have no convenient place and tools to take care of myself.

I am assuming your response was for me!!

If not, let me know. 


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Chargerman

As mentioned I would disconnect the circulator output hose and put a short section of hose on the pump into a bucket and see what happens. Likely the valve unless you just replaced the fluid. I think that would be the only way it could be airbound unless the fluid got real low and sucked in air through the overflow reservoir 

7 hours ago, Chuck B said:

I never have been a Aqua Hot fan because it is a over a $10,000 option.  Then there is the annual maintenance cost.  My two floor ducted furnaces keep us just as warm.  We always had hot water from our hot water heater.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor

How does this help the OPs issue???  Propane fired furnaces certainly are not problem free either. 


Dash air probl
saflyer

I was on a long trip in August. Most of the drive the dash air worked as expected. At one point the air from the dash vents became nil. I don’t recall if I noticed this mid-drive or when first turned on. After some time I discovered the air was flowing from the windshield defrost vents at a level you would expect based on the fan speed setting. Now I hadn’t selected defrost since last winter, only AC and vent.

I have a friend with another HR coach who has some experience troubleshooting AC systems. We found what we believe is the vacuum pump above generator. We disconnected the tube from it to the reservoir and found no suction. We checked the two wires from this part and found 0 voltage regardless of engine on or off, AC on or off or AC mode. I have fan power so the one fuse listed in the front run bay must be good, am I right? Can anyone educate me on the AC system and how this part works? 

Ed            
’05 HR Ambassador

 

 

313F11E9-2021-460D-8C0D-832673D5B2A2.jpeg


Low Air Alert While Underway
Fonman

Seems like the Air Dryer and governor have a little more tendancy to give trouble on motorhomes. I think they get sticky and act up from lack of use.

You could try a new governor, $20 from Napa. My old girl was acting pretty odd recently and a rebuilt air dryer had her back on the straight and narrow.


Dash air probl
waterskier_1

Yep, it sounds like the vacuum generator is bad.  Tree dash system uses vacuum to change the doors & louvers between defrost dash & floor.  Is designed so that when you loose vacuum it defaults to defroster. 


Dash air probl
Dr4Film

Ed,

That is an electrical vacuum generator versus what my Windsor has which is a air generated vacuum using a venturi effect.

Is there a fuse that controls the vacuum generator?

Your first course of action would be to find out why the generator has no power to it. I would think that once you turn on the AC/Heat Controls that the vacuum generator would have power going to it. That vacuum controls the directional air chambers as to which vents the air flows out of. The default vent is the defrost vents on top of the dash near the front windshield.

 


Low Air Alert While Underway
Gary 05 AMB DST
16 minutes ago, Fonman said:

Seems like the Air Dryer and governor have a little more tendancy to give trouble on motorhomes. I think they get sticky and act up from lack of use.

You could try a new governor, $20 from Napa. My old girl was acting pretty odd recently and a rebuilt air dryer had her back on the straight and narrow.

Mike, did you mean air or hair?

Gary 05 AMB DST


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Chuck B

True, but a lot less expensive.  JMHO,  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs
55 minutes ago, Chargerman said:

As mentioned I would disconnect the circulator output hose and put a short section of hose on the pump into a bucket and see what happens. Likely the valve unless you just replaced the fluid. I think that would be the only way it could be airbound unless the fluid got real low and sucked in air through the overflow reservoir 

How does this help the OPs issue???  Propane fired furnaces certainly are not problem free either. 

That’s a good idea. Thanks. Do you know the pressure of the fluid?


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Chargerman
5 minutes ago, Chuck B said:

True, but a lot less expensive.  JMHO,  Chuck B 2004 Windsor

Agree. Fortunately, besides regular maintenance mine has been problem free in the 7 years we’ve owned it. 
 

I don’t know the fluid pressure but I would guess around 10 lbs at operating temp  


Generator DC input
Grampy OG
On 9/29/2021 at 1:43 PM, Ivan K said:

That's how mine is too forward top corner of FRB on ours.

I am pretty sure that you guys are correct. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

Ken

 


Charging problem???
Grampy OG
7 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Ken,

A manual watering system is OK but the auto-watering ones are not. The cannot be trusted!

I prefer using the Water Miser Caps as it reduces the times I have to add water to the batteries. The caps do not prevent water from escaping completely hence the need to add water a few times per year versus once a month without the Water Miser Caps.

JMHO

Thanks for you HO! Do you ever equalize your batteries? If so do the caps need to be popped or removed?

Ken

 


Charging problem???
Dr4Film

Nope, I use PowerPulse units on all of my batteries, chassis and house, to keep any sulfates off of the internal battery plates.

It uses pulse technology to keep the plates clean.

Google PowerPulse to read more about them.


Dash air probl
saflyer
1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

Ed,

That is an electrical vacuum generator versus what my Windsor has which is a air generated vacuum using a venturi effect.

Is there a fuse that controls the vacuum generator?

Your first course of action would be to find out why the generator has no power to it. I would think that once you turn on the AC/Heat Controls that the vacuum generator would have power going to it. That vacuum controls the directional air chambers as to which vents the air flows out of. The default vent is the defrost vents on top of the dash near the front windshield.

 

I think that’s going to be the trick, finding a fuse for that vacuum pump.

Your point of the the defrost vents being the “default” position would explain their operation without my ever selecting them.

Thanks,      
Ed


Air Intake Drain Hose I Assume
Steve P
On 9/29/2021 at 6:25 PM, Dr4Film said:

I am getting my coach ready for departure in two weeks. The engine hatch hasn't been opened up since arriving here in early May. I will have to look around closer on the right side to see if I can find anything that is similar to what you have. I've owned this coach for almost 18 years and the only water drips I have seen at the rear have been from the AC condensate on the left side.

Wait... what?   The roof A/C's have drain hoses?  Both mine seem to run across into the roof gutter.   That's not normal? 


Help Needed! 2009 Monaco Dynasty Nottingham IV Driving Light Diagram
Frank McElroy
On 9/28/2021 at 4:32 PM, bbralph said:

The tech is not knowledgeable with the multiplex system.  We are just trying to get the headlights working, so I can take it to another location if necessary.  He has removed the headlight switch module and found that someone in the past had soldered the wires directly to the switch.  We have a new switch, but we do not have a replacement connecter.  Do any of you know which connector it is that we need to connect the wires to the new switch?

headlight switch module.jpg

The two connectors are Delphi Micro VHT.  One is part number 15499927 and the other is 13513469.  These switches are Eaton E30-eSM multiplex rocker switch units and those connector part numbers are listed on the specification sheet.


Air Intake Drain Hose I Assume
Ray Davis
35 minutes ago, Steve P said:

Wait... what?   The roof A/C's have drain hoses?  Both mine seem to run across into the roof gutter.   That's not normal? 

Yeah, it's normal on Knight coaches,  drains across the roof.   I think it's that way on Diplomats and below.


repair or replace broken toilet floor flange
Jim McGarvie

UPDATE:

The Dremel and impact wrench worked, and I removed the screws. I was able to read a part number on the flange, in very small print (for these eyes, anyway), and googled it. Turns out that sure 'nuff, it is a screw-in flange. Armed with that encouragement I used a spanner wrench (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FDL3BS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and with some considerable effort (I think they used glue for pipe dope) I was able to remove the flange. I have ordered the replacement and a new seal, and cautiously optimistic that the remainder of the project will be fairly straightforward.

Thanks to all who helped.


Old school maps and books
JDCrow

While I’m kinda tech savvy, I grew up without the internet and still get excited to read maps and books about traveling and such. Maybe it brings out the kid in my. Anyone else still using paper? 

DFBF0681-9B1C-44B9-920B-F2F03F743386.jpeg


repair or replace broken toilet floor flange
gdroberson

when you put in the new one use ss screws


repair or replace broken toilet floor flange
Jim McGarvie
1 minute ago, gdroberson said:

when you put in the new one use ss screws

Absolutely! They are on my shopping list.


Air Intake Drain Hose I Assume
Trinidaddave
50 minutes ago, Steve P said:

Wait... what?   The roof A/C's have drain hoses?  Both mine seem to run across into the roof gutter.   That's not normal? 

Many air conditioners drain into a small pan, then the drain hose is routed to the rear o bedroom unit and near the front of the coach for your front unit.  Your drain pans may be plugged if it runs across the roof.


Transmission Temp range
Trinidaddave
On 9/16/2021 at 9:37 AM, Chuck B said:

This is a good opportunity to remind coach owners that when they are picking up their coach after having work done, to take a test drive with the shop foreman or technician before paying the bill.  That way any questionable items can be addressed.  Otherwise you are going to get the used vehicle salesman guarantee, guaranteed until he sees the taillights leave the driveway.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor

Good point!  I will remember that.

 


Air Intake Drain Hose I Assume
gjh2916

My 01 Dynasty has a drain hose on the compartment of the air intake. It drains under coach right above exhaust pipe.


Charging problem???
Gary 05 AMB DST

DR, what is the connection for 2 6v in series?

Gary 05 AMB DST


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
Dear LaserWorks
10 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

I have looked at the wiring diagrams I have.  I don't have a good copy for 2000 Diplomat, but found one for a 2002 which I think is the same as far as the Boost Circuit goes.  I believe the purple wire going to the Isolator Relay (R6 in my drawing) is the input from the Boost Switch on the Dash.  That Isolation Relay connects the Chassis and House Batteries together.  It is there primarily to charge the house batteries from the alternator, and secondarily to add the Boost function.  The Red wire from the Isolator Delay Module which has a yellow wire going up the the FRB is the control to make the Isolator Relay connect both sets of batteries together.  You no longer want that function (alternator charging the house batteries) so that wire should be removed from the Isolator Relay and securely taped or better yet heat shrink over the end so it can't short out.  That will leave only the 16 gauge purple (violet) wire on one terminal, a ground wire on another, and the two big 2/0 Red cables, one to each battery bank connected to the Isolator Relay.  This will allow the Boost switch to engage that Isolator Relay, but not the alternator charging circuit.  

One thing to note, most people are replacing this relay with the Blue Sea ML-ACR device, which does have a feature called Boost, but it won't work with the DC/DC Charger installed.  I realize that this isn't the greatest way to accomplish your goal of Boost, but it doesn't require any new hardware.  

If it were me, I'd just carry a set of Jumper Cables, and jump the two batteries together if that is ever needed.  To be perfectly honest, the only time I had to do this, and I did not have Lithium batteries for the house yet, I used my Jeep to jump the chassis battery.  In that case, my Chassis batteries (2- 12Volt) were shot, and I was dry camping and didn't want to use my house batteries, and wasn't sure they would jump my Detroit Diesel in any case.  

Please ask if you have more questions.

Thanks! We already carry a set of jumper cables, so that would work. Appreciate the input.


Dash air probl
Dear LaserWorks

We had the same symptom (air out the windshield vents) due to the vacuum pump failing in our 2000 Diplomat. It was tripping a breaker, which on ours is shared with the steps. Our fuse is labeled "VAC SENSE" on the inside of the cover in the outside electrical bay below the driver. It's pretty easy to swap out the pump.


Axle nut torque specs
Chuck Hefti

I stand corrected! As it turned out I found they were #8, 9/16 fine thread (not 1/2") which calls for 129 ft.lb torque. So project done and another lesson learned in the world of RVing! Thank you all for your input, you are the reason we all turn to these forums for help.

On 9/29/2021 at 6:41 PM, vito.a said:

Are they 5/8" or 1/2"?  Size of the stud, not the hex nut. 

Grade 8, 1/2"NF is 90 ft. lbs.  

I used this chart:

Bolt Depot - US Recommended Bolt Torque Table

Thanks Vito for the chart!


Engine Temps rising again.
Rikadoo

Hey gary so overheating is always such a challange, plus to throw a wrench into the mix a recient software upgrade!!! I have reading how the “cummins overheat” is showing up all over these sites, please let us know when the culpret is found, good luck


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