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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/562-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Axle nut torque specs
Flyinhy
Engine Temps rising again.
Gary M
Old school maps and books
Gary M
Axle nut torque specs
Chuck Hefti
Dash air problem
Corkman
Axle nut torque specs
Flyinhy
Air Intake Drain Hose I Assume
Dr4Film
Charging problem???
Dr4Film
Dash air problem
Dr4Film
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Dr4Film
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Dr4Film
Air Intake Drain Hose I Assume
tmw188
Dash air problem
Robertpk
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
dandick66
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs
Dash air problem
David Pratt
Dash air problem
saflyer
Charging problem???
Grampy OG
Old school maps and books
JDCrow
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
David Pratt
Dash air problem
Rikadoo
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
Grampy OG
Dash air problem
saflyer
Charging problem???
Mike in Va
Air Intake Drain Hose I Assume
Ray Davis
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs
Dash air problem
David Pratt
Dash air problem
Ray Davis
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
waterskier_1
Dash air problem
saflyer
Dash air problem
David Pratt
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Dr4Film
Charging problem???
rcl285
Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
waterskier_1
Dash air problem
David Pratt
Old school maps and books
Rikadoo
Charging problem???
Mike in Va
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
Scotty Hutto
Class A mirrors
Rikadoo
Charging problem???
Dr4Film
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
jacwjames
10kw generator code 45
Flyinhy
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
David Pratt
Water Pump On OFF Switch
Corkman
Class A mirrors
Ray Davis
Class A mirrors
Cubflyer
Water Pump On OFF Switch
Dr4Film
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs

New Posts

Axle nut torque specs
Flyinhy
43 minutes ago, Chuck Hefti said:

I stand corrected! As it turned out I found they were #8, 9/16 fine thread (not 1/2") which calls for 129 ft.lb torque. So project done and another lesson learned in the world of RVing! Thank you all for your input, you are the reason we all turn to these forums for help.

Thanks Vito for the chart!

A set of torque limiters and an impact make that job a quickie. 

Just curious , did the flange have groves on the inside?


Engine Temps rising again.
Gary M
47 minutes ago, Rikadoo said:

Hey gary so overheating is always such a challange, plus to throw a wrench into the mix a recient software upgrade!!! I have reading how the “cummins overheat” is showing up all over these sites, please let us know when the culpret is found, good luck

Oh I will. Hopefully I get a food answer.


Old school maps and books
Gary M

My wife does butttttt!!!! I like zooming in oa a destination.


Axle nut torque specs
Chuck Hefti
55 minutes ago, Flyinhy said:

A set of torque limiters and an impact make that job a quickie. 

Just curious , did the flange have groves on the inside?

Do you mean the grooves around the base of the axle shaft outwards toward the stud holes? If so then yes. 


Dash air problem
Corkman
10 hours ago, saflyer said:

I was on a long trip in August. Most of the drive the dash air worked as expected. At one point the air from the dash vents became nil. I don’t recall if I noticed this mid-drive or when first turned on. After some time I discovered the air was flowing from the windshield defrost vents at a level you would expect based on the fan speed setting. Now I hadn’t selected defrost since last winter, only AC and vent.

I have a friend with another HR coach who has some experience troubleshooting AC systems. We found what we believe is the vacuum pump above generator. We disconnected the tube from it to the reservoir and found no suction. We checked the two wires from this part and found 0 voltage regardless of engine on or off, AC on or off or AC mode. I have fan power so the one fuse listed in the front run bay must be good, am I right? Can anyone educate me on the AC system and how this part works? 

Ed            
’05 HR Ambassador

 

 

313F11E9-2021-460D-8C0D-832673D5B2A2.jpeg

Where was this located?


Axle nut torque specs
Flyinhy

Okay, good to know for future reference......I'm sure at some point in the near future I'll be doing the same to mine. 


Air Intake Drain Hose I Assume
Dr4Film

Todd,

I spent part of yesterday getting the coach ready to travel back to our winter home in Florida. I looked extensively in the right side of the engine compartment for any air intake drain hose. None, nada, nothing no where. So it seems that the Monaco installation techs decided to install one in your 2002 Windsor but not in mine supporting why these are called "snowflakes" where no two are exactly the same.

Hence the reason why many older long term members here that post frequently like myself require and ask for as much specific information in regards to each members coach and specific problem they are having PRIOR to attempting to help resolve the problem. Otherwise everyone is just burning up cyberspace trying to get to the ACTUAL information needed to help.


Charging problem???
Dr4Film

Here is the unit that I purchased from Amazon many years ago.

https://tinyurl.com/57vcny3p

You connect the positive lead to the positive post of the 12 VDC side of the two 6 VDC batteries hooked in series and the negative lead to the negative post of the 12 VDC side of the two 6 VDC batteries hooked in series.

I chose to use two units for my house bank and one unit on my 8D Chassis battery.

I have one unit on each set of two 6 VDC Batteries hooked in series.

Battery Bank - Chassis 8D.JPG

Battery Bank - House GC2.JPG


Dash air problem
Dr4Film

Bill,

It is located on the front firewall inside the slide-out generator compartment.


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Dr4Film

Paul,

What part of Florida will you be heading for? We are in New Hampshire but heading back home to Florida on the 13th.

When I changed out coolant back in 2015 my front zone lost the ability to heat but the bathroom and bedroom zones worked fine. Turns out that I had an air lock in the front zone somewhere. After driving it to a service center in Anchorage AK for some service, when they finally got around to checking why the front zone wasn't heating, it was working as it should. SO driving it must have shaken out any air that may have gotten into that specific loop.


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs
11 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Paul,

What part of Florida will you be heading for? We are in New Hampshire but heading back home to Florida on the 13th.

When I changed out coolant back in 2015 my front zone lost the ability to heat but the bathroom and bedroom zones worked fine. Turns out that I had an air lock in the front zone somewhere. After driving it to a service center in Anchorage AK for some service, when they finally got around to checking why the front zone wasn't heating, it was working as it should. SO driving it must have shaken out any air that may have gotten into that specific loop.

We have driven about 500 miles since this issue began, without anything changing. A drive to Florida via the Carolinas might do it though. 
 

We will be in the Tampa area most of the winter, with 30 days over by Jupiter. 


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Dr4Film

After looking at the service manual for the 600D model, your check valves appear to be located BEFORE the pump mounted to the side of the Aqua-Hot near the tank. Whereas the check valves in my 431/12 model are after the pump and sit high above the case.

If you remove the hose end off the input side of the pump I would think that should tell you if the check valve is blocked with no fluid running out.

To replace any check valve in the 600D, you have to drain the coolant from the boiler tank.

is it possible to take the top of the check valve apart?


Air Intake Drain Hose I Assume
tmw188
2 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Todd,

I spent part of yesterday getting the coach ready to travel back to our winter home in Florida. I looked extensively in the right side of the engine compartment for any air intake drain hose. None, nada, nothing no where. So it seems that the Monaco installation techs decided to install one in your 2002 Windsor but not in mine supporting why these are called "snowflakes" where no two are exactly the same.

Hence the reason why many older long term members here that post frequently like myself require and ask for as much specific information in regards to each members coach and specific problem they are having PRIOR to attempting to help resolve the problem. Otherwise everyone is just burning up cyberspace trying to get to the ACTUAL information needed to help.

I’m only assuming that is where the hose is coming from being I know where my condensate comes from. I’ll investigate a little more when I get back from Sevierville. Thanks for looking. 


Dash air problem
Robertpk

Here is a copy of the wiri g to the vac. Pump. Hope this helps.Screenshot_20211001-080512_Drive.thumb.jpg.689456d93573ae2defc5c147c35350e5.jpg


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
dandick66

I have the 400D model, so it only has 2 pumps and 4 zones.  Pump 1 controls zone 1 and pump 2 controls zones 2,3, and 4 and is the circ pump for hot water.   My front vents were blowing cool intermittently, or so I thought.  I checked everything and could not find anything wrong. I changed the check valves and the fluid, too.  What I finally found was that the wiring to the pumps from the AH control board were reversed.  As long as all zones were demanding heat via the thermostat it worked fine.  However, when zones 2-4 were satisfied and zone 1 demanded heat, the “wrong” pump would come on, but the “right” fans would come on.  It’s a little difficult to explain, but just double check your wiring.

Dan D, 2012 Diplomat 43DFT


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs
1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

After looking at the service manual for the 600D model, your check valves appear to be located BEFORE the pump mounted to the side of the Aqua-Hot near the tank. Whereas the check valves in my 431/12 model are after the pump and sit high above the case.

If you remove the hose end off the input side of the pump I would think that should tell you if the check valve is blocked with no fluid running out.

To replace any check valve in the 600D, you have to drain the coolant from the boiler tank.

is it possible to take the top of the check valve apart?

I think my AH might have a different arrangement. Here’s a picture of it. 
image.thumb.jpeg.0acc524c4ece5eef6eaa41783f8c23b7.jpeg


Dash air problem
David Pratt

This Vacuum Pump/Generator is from a Ford Diesel Pick up truck. The Monaco P/N is 01802268, the Ford P/N is E3 HT2A451 BA. They are available at any Auto Parts Store and Amazon List them for $70.00.

There is only power going to the Vacuum Generator when it senses the Dash AC System is Low or no vacuum.  The round black reservoir above the the pump stores vacuum for the Dash AC system to operate and the Pump/Generator keeps it full.


Dash air problem
saflyer
10 minutes ago, David Pratt said:

This Vacuum Pump/Generator is from a Ford Diesel Pick up truck. The Monaco P/N is 01802268, the Ford P/N is E3 HT2A451 BA. They are available at any Auto Parts Store and Amazon List them for $70.00.

There is only power going to the Vacuum Generator when it senses the Dash AC System is Low or no vacuum.  The round black reservoir above the the pump stores vacuum for the Dash AC system to operate and the Pump/Generator keeps it full.

So that leads me to a failed sensor. Where should I look for that?

Thanks

53 minutes ago, Robertpk said:

Here is a copy of the wiri g to the vac. Pump. Hope this helps.

Great. Really helps.

Thanks

Is the vacuum sensor in the vacuum generator? I think that might be why David led me to replacing it. Am I reading this right?


Charging problem???
Grampy OG
4 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Here is the unit that I purchased from Amazon many years ago.

https://tinyurl.com/57vcny3p

You connect the positive lead to the positive post of the 12 VDC side of the two 6 VDC batteries hooked in series and the negative lead to the negative post of the 12 VDC side of the two 6 VDC batteries hooked in series.

I chose to use two units for my house bank and one unit on my 8D Chassis battery.

I have one unit on each set of two 6 VDC Batteries hooked in series.

Battery Bank - Chassis 8D.JPG

Battery Bank - House GC2.JPG

Looks good thanks for sharing the info. Interesting concept. I need to study up on this one. 

Thanks


Old school maps and books
JDCrow
7 hours ago, Gary M said:

My wife does butttttt!!!! I like zooming in oa a destination.

I still like the satellite zooming as well. I’m not good at tabs and files when searching for stuff I read. It’s easy to grab the maps or books to find info 


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
David Pratt

It is not uncommon that at times the Heat Exchanger can get Vapor Locked. When this happens it acts like blocked hose or failed check valve. The circulation pumps are magnetic driven pumps, not direct drive pumps and are very low pressure flow/volume pumps, not pressure pumps. When a Heat Exchanger gets Vapor locked it will not clear itself because there is not enough pressure from the pump to do so.

Look at the check valve and you should see a small 1/4" bolt. This bolt is actually there to help bleed air from the system. With the pump operating slightly open this bolt until you get coolant flow and close it. If you still do not get any heat from the hose to the Heat Exchanger, then you will have to bleed the air out of the Heat Exchanger. THIS IS WHERE IT CAN GET MESSY. To bleed the Heat Exchanger you will have to Loosen/Remove the return hose on the back of the Heat Exchanger and install a short extension hose on the outlet and put the other end in a bucket. Turn on the pump until you get the air out and coolant is flowing into the bucket. Turn the pump off and Re-install the return hose and you should be good to go.

Heat Exchangers that have a hose nipple on the back across from each other, the left nipple looking from the front of the Heat Exchangert in most installations, should be the inlet and the right one is the output. If the nipples are mounted to just one side, the top nipple is the inlet and the bottom nipple is the output.


Dash air problem
Rikadoo

Generally speaking with these pumps in the Ford trucks I saw the failure due to constant running, usually due to a vacuum leak the customer never knew they had. With ford it was sold as a complete unit, just be prepared once it is replaced if the pump continues to run while the key is in the on position your going to have to start looking for the reason. Most of the trucks had a vacuum tank that would be a "storage container" for the vacuum??? (sounds weird saying it that way) so it was kinda normal that overnight you would get some brief operation when you turned the key on, and also brief operation when making vacuum requests (a/c mode selection, or with Ford trucks 4wd selection) however for the most part there are to be no leaks so the system would stay off.


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
Grampy OG
On 8/7/2021 at 7:28 AM, jacwjames said:

There is an option to isolate the two systems if the generator is running by connecting one wire to the generator sense wire.  

The thread that doesn't die. Can you please explain how to locate the above referenced generator sense wire? I travel almost exclusively with the genny running to power the house a/c systems. Living in the Phoenix southwest area it is rarely cool enough to run only the dash air. I have googled the phrase and I come up with nothing except alternator sense wire. 

Thanks

Ken


Dash air problem
saflyer

OK help me out here. David, are you saying the wires to the pump are only powered when the vacuum is low implying the sensor for that is external to the pump. Or should there be power at all times and the circuit is only closed if a sensor internal to the generator senses inadequate vacuum, closes a switch starting the generator. That implies there is something elsewhere causing the problem and not the vacuum generator itself.

I ask this because of something I saw in the wiring diagram Robertpk supplied. I don’t recall if these two issues started at the same time but they might have. My steps are not retracting normally. If the step switch is in the off position the steps should remain extended regardless of whether the entry door is open or closed except if the door is closed and the ignition key is turned to the on position. Then the steps retract to protect them during driving.  Recently, and again it might have started at the same time as the AC issue, my steps don’t retract when the switch is in the down/off position, the door is closed and the ignition switch moved to the on position. I have to put the step switch in the on/up position for the steps to retract for driving. Could there be the common link here? What is the ignition switch connected to in relation to the entry steps? (BTW, as an aside, the light in the door switch has never illuminated.)


Charging problem???
Mike in Va

Dr4film if I change  my charging system to the blue sea system can it be wired so that the generator, alter and shore power will charge both the engine and cabin batteries?  Will I keep my current intelli-power charger and wire it to the new blue sea? As you may be able to tell when it comes to wiring I'm not that knowledgeable. Will most likely reach out for help with the install. Thanks    


Air Intake Drain Hose I Assume
Ray Davis

Morning Todd,

Those many, many holes across the top, is that the air intake?   My 03 Windsor looks a lot like yours but without the holes.  My air intake is a square grill high in the rear pass side.

I think Richard's 02 Windsor is like mine, and as far as I know I don't have a drain hose on mine either.  Actually I can't recall ever seeing a Windsor with the holes up there.   It looks good, but I could see a problem when washing the coach,  a stream of rinse water up that way and you could get lots of water in there.                    Maybe that's why you have that drain hose.  It's pretty easy to rinse around my intake grill.

Here's your picture showing the holes.    Let us know if the filter has been wet,  with the drain stopped up it just might have been.  

 9535259B-415A-4F06-A247-8E0E38610C63.jpeg


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs
52 minutes ago, David Pratt said:

It is not uncommon that at times the Heat Exchanger can get Vapor Locked. When this happens it acts like blocked hose or failed check valve. The circulation pumps are magnetic driven pumps, not direct drive pumps and are very low pressure flow/volume pumps, not pressure pumps. When a Heat Exchanger gets Vapor locked it will not clear itself because there is not enough pressure from the pump to do so.

Look at the check valve and you should see a small 1/4" bolt. This bolt is actually there to help bleed air from the system. With the pump operating slightly open this bolt until you get coolant flow and close it. If you still do not get any heat from the hose to the Heat Exchanger, then you will have to bleed the air out of the Heat Exchanger. THIS IS WHERE IT CAN GET MESSY. To bleed the Heat Exchanger you will have to Loosen/Remove the return hose on the back of the Heat Exchanger and install a short extension hose on the outlet and put the other end in a bucket. Turn on the pump until you get the air out and coolant is flowing into the bucket. Turn the pump off and Re-install the return hose and you should be good to go.

Heat Exchangers that have a hose nipple on the back across from each other, the left nipple looking from the front of the Heat Exchangert in most installations, should be the inlet and the right one is the output. If the nipples are mounted to just one side, the top nipple is the inlet and the bottom nipple is the output.

Thanks. I’ll give that a try. 


Dash air problem
David Pratt

The sensor is built into the pump itself! You will have to replace the pump if it not working. You can test the pump by first removing the Vacuum hose from the pump, turning on the ignition, select a mode other than Defrost and the pump should run continuously until you connect the hose back on the pump. When the Vacuum pressure builds up the pump will turn off, If the pump does not turn off, you have a vacuum leak somewhere in the system. If it fails to run the pump is junk.

As Rik stated, most of the failures with these pumps occur because of an undetected vacuum leak and they run constantly. They were not designed to do that.


Dash air problem
Ray Davis

My pump has 12v power when the key is on.  The amount of vacuum is controlled inside the pump its self.  You can supply 12v to the pump to test it.  A cover on the pump can be snapped off to expose the contacts that sometimes cause it to not operate, I have done that to mine before and made it work for years now.  Since the steps and vac pump are ingnition sw related it seems possible your problems may be related too

Robert's diagram shows that the pump and step are fed through the same connector, find that common connection and clean it and you may solve both issues.  Lets hope it will 


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
waterskier_1
43 minutes ago, Grampy OG said:

The thread that doesn't die. Can you please explain how to locate the above referenced generator sense wire? I travel almost exclusively with the genny running to power the house a/c systems. Living in the Phoenix southwest area it is rarely cool enough to run only the dash air. I have googled the phrase and I come up with nothing except alternator sense wire. 

Thanks

Ken

The generator sense wire is the wire that powers the red light showing the generator is running. I don't think it runs to the rear of the coach.  You may be able to pick it up in the FRB, otherwise you'll have to go to the nearest generator with our the generator itself. 


Dash air problem
saflyer
3 minutes ago, David Pratt said:

The sensor is built into the pump itself! You will have to replace the pump if it not working. You can test the pump by first removing the Vacuum hose from the pump, turning on the ignition, select a mode other than Defrost and the pump should run continuously until you connect the hose back on the pump. When the Vacuum pressure builds up the pump will turn off, If the pump does not turn off, you have a vacuum leak somewhere in the system. If it fails to run the pump is junk.

As Rik stated, most of the failures with these pumps occur because of an undetected vacuum leak and they run constantly. They were not designed to do that.

That was my original thinking. But if there is no power in the wires to the pump it can be good but still not work. That’s my situation. Why is there no power to the wire’s?


Dash air problem
David Pratt

I am sorry but what I meant is that the pump will only run when the system is low on vacuum. The ignition switch must be on and the AC control selected to a Mode for the pump to have power. The internal sensor in the pump will turn the pump on and off. The round black reservoir stores enough vacuum to assist the pump when you switch modes and prevent the pump from running constantly.


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Dr4Film
1 hour ago, Pduggs said:

I think my AH might have a different arrangement.

Yes, it certainly IS different than the 600D Model that Aqua-Hot has in their library for the Service Manual. I guess someone at the factory thought that placing the check valves before the pump was a bad idea but forgot to change the manuals.


Charging problem???
rcl285
On 9/28/2021 at 2:56 PM, Mike in Va said:

I noticed today that my cabin batteries appeared to show they were boiling a little water over from too much charge. Just a little but not enough to need to add any water to fill. I checked my inverter and it showed charging of 13.6, my cabin batteries showed 13.6 volts and my engine batteries showed 12.6. I cut the cabin battery switch off in the battery bay and waited about 2 hours and checked again. My inverter showed charging 13.6 and the engine batteries showed 12.6. Should the inverter charge the engine batteries to 13.6 volts? According to my manual both sides of batteries should charge on inverter, alter, and generator .I am attaching a picture of my set up. I've replaced the solenoid, ONLY because it appeared orginial, but not the little black box above it. Checking to see if I have a problem or not.  2001 Hoilday Rambler Ambassador599650835_20210514_132537(1).thumb.jpg.a2d733cb1b36d0d4291f3af002af8b49.jpg .Thanks for the help.     

In 2001, the typical setup did not charge the chassis batteries from shore power or the generator. Only the house batteries were charged from those sources through the inverter.  The chassis batteries are charged from the alternator, but your photo shows a device which connects both the cabin and engine batteries together after the high initial current required to satisfy the engine batteries tapers off.  That sensing device is an IRD, and is seen on your photo just above the large relay.  That large relay is also used in the “boost” function to assist when the engine batteries are depleted and won’t provide enough current to stare the engine.  
To charge the engine batteries while on shore power, a device called the Lambert Battery Maintainer was added on the High end Monaco coaches.  If you have one, it should begin the same area.  It is a green device that provides a small charging current to the engine batteries whenever the house batteries are being charged from the inverter.

 

 

Dick L.  04 Imperial


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
waterskier_1
10 hours ago, Dear LaserWorks said:

Thanks! We already carry a set of jumper cables, so that would work. Appreciate the input.

One other thing - since I live in Colorado and shore my coach in my side yard. In the winter we may have snow that lasts for days on the solar panels, and that is the only way to charge the chassis battery (one slat panel dedicated to the chassis panel).  To make sure the chassis battery is always maintained, I installed a cheap battery maintainer.  It is only used when the coach is stored.  I plug it into the Block Heater outlet in the engine bay.  I never use the block heater.  When I get ready to depart in January, I start up the Aquahot a day or two before to warm up the coach, and use the engine pre- heat to warm the engine.  This might be an option for you when you have shore power.  Note: I haven't studied the Amp-L-Start or Echo Start type products for use with Lithium batteries.  My initial thought is not to use them. 


Dash air problem
David Pratt

Easiest way to check the pump is to get two jumper wires and connect it directly to a battery. I carry a small 12vdc 12 amp battery that they use in computer back ups to trouble shoot with. I have a lead with alligator clips. It works well to be able to trouble shoot components at the source without having to remove them.

When you turn on the ignition switch you will have power that goes directly to the AC control panel. When you switch the panel from off to any other mode it will activate the pump if the vacuum is low to move the affected actuators. There should be an accessory fuse located in the front run bay that controls power to the AC control. You need to refer to the wiring diagram for your coach.


Old school maps and books
Rikadoo

Yeah i get the whole map thing, for a couple reasons. On a map you can see the whole picture not just a line to follow, Maps let you determine your level of participation, going direct or wander a little. They let you see your trip in distance / area covered. Most of all they give me quiet time… 😳cause now the 28216C68-7FBA-466F-8949-4D22D4A49CCD.thumb.jpeg.659e45682658599f09a8f06d4991f4fd.jpegwife is too busy scrolling thru her Phone GPS trying to find which turn off “were looking for” 🙀😂

 


Charging problem???
Mike in Va

I have a 2001 Holiday Rambler manual that say that the engine batteries should be charged by shore power and the gen. I did post a mistake in my original post by saying it had an inverter to charge the cabin batteries. In fact dr4film pointed out it was just a intelli-power battery charger. But as you say and from what I've seen, the manuals are for several different models. I do know the only time the engine batteries volts are the same as the cabin batteries have is when the BOOST button is pushed. I pretty sure I'm going to install the blue sea system and that will take care of this. Still trying to read and learn as much as I can about this coach. Thanks for your help.  


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
Scotty Hutto

There is also a generator sense wire that runs to your AGS module (if you have one).  Fortunately for me, mine is in the bay next to the battery compartment, so it’s a short run from that generator sense wire to my ML-ACR (but I haven’t hooked it up yet 🤦🏻‍♂️).


Class A mirrors
Rikadoo

Alright so i may be in the wrong topic area, however a while ago i had issues with my outside mirrors so i was lookin where to find information. Looking thru online companys didnt reveal much for my design, others said to remove it an have it recoated. So i shelved my quest for a later time as it felt like a rabbit hole, then i got this brain fart to go look in my owners manual. I found a envolope with some info from “Ramco Engineering 800-321-4819) it spoke of the wiring for my mirror head wiring for all the circuits within, however it was dated 1998🙀 When i called an spoke to the parts department gave them my model year a coach design they knew exactily the parts an in fact still carry them. There is one issue in that the main “mirror head” is only available in black however all the other pieces are still in chrome.


Charging problem???
Dr4Film

Mike,

Without actually viewing exactly what your Front Run Bay Electrical setup is and your rear Run Bay Electrical setup is (if you have one) it is hard to tell what you have and don't have.

Photos would help.

However, based on what you have said so far, the relay in your photo is most likely the Battery Isolator Relay. This relay is used to combine your House and Chassis Battery Banks together. That's why you see the same identical VDC on both sides ONLY when you activate the Auxiliary Boost Switch on your dash.

If you remove that relay and install the Blue Seas Isolator ML-ACR in it's place and hook up the two cables, House & Chassis to it, the brains inside the ML-ACR will automatically determine which battery bank needs to be charged no matter whether you have the engine running, shore power hooked up or the generator running.

Plus if you choose to hookup the additional control wires to each location and to the remote switch based on the supplied wiring diagram it will use the extra features that come with the device.

It's best to study the wiring diagram to familiarize yourself with the device and the instructions before attempting to install it.

We are always here to help out when in doubt.


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
jacwjames

I have a generator sense wire going to my BIRD in my passenger side rear electrical compartment.   Also have one to the AGS.  Also one in my inverter, which is not used but simply passes through.  There is also a generator sense wire running to the two generator start buttons, this is what powers the light indicating the generator is running.  No doubt there is also one running to the RG7 panel.   On my coach it is a blue wire. 

If you have a wiring schematic it will be on it. 


10kw generator code 45
Flyinhy
23 hours ago, Ivan K said:

I used Cummins/Onan service manual where they list resistance values and tests for the various windings but the problems is with needing really precise meters to measure really small resistance values and really big isolation values correctly. At the end I found my burned winding visually which of course took a complete disassembly of the unit. Hope not your case.

Well, I did the same today. I got the old fluke out and started checking all my connections , voltages and resistances. I took the top cover off and checked connection at the board and found no voltage telling the starter to fire. I wiggled the K1 relay wires and K2.......boom 13.3 volts. She tried to start but didn't. I tried again a few minutes later and a little white smoke and boom!!! Running like a champ. This coach has been sitting for a long time and I know all the fluids and filters need to changed. 

Funny thing happened when it started too. Charging stopped for about 10 minutes then all of a sudden....started back. I'm trying to understand how everything works on this system.....you almost need to be an electrical engineer........

Thanks for all the help you guys give me.....I need it.


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs
3 hours ago, David Pratt said:

It is not uncommon that at times the Heat Exchanger can get Vapor Locked. When this happens it acts like blocked hose or failed check valve. The circulation pumps are magnetic driven pumps, not direct drive pumps and are very low pressure flow/volume pumps, not pressure pumps. When a Heat Exchanger gets Vapor locked it will not clear itself because there is not enough pressure from the pump to do so.

Look at the check valve and you should see a small 1/4" bolt. This bolt is actually there to help bleed air from the system. With the pump operating slightly open this bolt until you get coolant flow and close it. If you still do not get any heat from the hose to the Heat Exchanger, then you will have to bleed the air out of the Heat Exchanger. THIS IS WHERE IT CAN GET MESSY. To bleed the Heat Exchanger you will have to Loosen/Remove the return hose on the back of the Heat Exchanger and install a short extension hose on the outlet and put the other end in a bucket. Turn on the pump until you get the air out and coolant is flowing into the bucket. Turn the pump off and Re-install the return hose and you should be good to go.

Heat Exchangers that have a hose nipple on the back across from each other, the left nipple looking from the front of the Heat Exchangert in most installations, should be the inlet and the right one is the output. If the nipples are mounted to just one side, the top nipple is the inlet and the bottom nipple is the output.

I checked for the nipples you speak off on the backside of my heat exchanger. See pictures. They don’t appear to be on mine. I’ll bleed the check valve and if that doesn’t work I’ll bleed the return hose at the heat exchanger. Do you know which hose is the return?

5E5E99CC-1DD3-4189-B437-81189E13C4C3.jpeg

760AB09E-2739-422D-B366-58147973D949.jpeg


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
David Pratt

The nipples are the ones that the hoses are connected to on the rear of the heat exchangers.

Heat Exchangers that have a hose nipple on the back across from each other, the left nipple looking from the front of the Heat Exchangert in most installations, should be the inlet and the right one is the output. The one hose connection shown in the second picture should be the return hose if it was properly plumbed from the factory.


Water Pump On OFF Switch
Corkman

Anyone know of a place that I can purchase a replacement illuminated water pump switch like the green one in the attached pic? 

It is located above the passenger seat (in my 2021 Dynasty), is a 2 way toggle switch, and is illuminated when the water pump is on.

Thanks,

Bill

Switch for Water Pump above passenger.jpg


Class A mirrors
Ray Davis
57 minutes ago, Rikadoo said:

Alright so i may be in the wrong topic area, however a while ago i had issues with my outside mirrors so i was lookin where to find information. Looking thru online companys didnt reveal much for my design, others said to remove it an have it recoated. So i shelved my quest for a later time as it felt like a rabbit hole, then i got this brain fart to go look in my owners manual. I found a envolope with some info from “Ramco Engineering 800-321-4819) it spoke of the wiring for my mirror head wiring for all the circuits within, however it was dated 1998🙀 When i called an spoke to the parts department gave them my model year a coach design they knew exactily the parts an in fact still carry them. There is one issue in that the main “mirror head” is only available in black however all the other pieces are still in chrome.

Rik,   The owner of this forum, Dave Pratt is in the plating business.   They chrome plate mirror parts along with all the other things they plate.

Give them a shout,  https://www.spacecoast-plating.com/    they have a great web site.  Maybe Dave will chime in.

Image result for space coast plating melbourne fl


Class A mirrors
Cubflyer

Good tip on SpaceCoast Plating... I have used them and they really do a great job.

Separately, Rik, this summer while driving, I was getting a reflection of the sun into my eyes from the tops of the mirror arms... I'm going to paint the tops of those arms flat black to eliminate that glare/reflection.

Ken


Water Pump On OFF Switch
Dr4Film
Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Pduggs

Thanks so much!


10kw generator code 45
Ivan K

Awesome, that tells you how reliable the trouble code indications really are.... glad it turned out to be a free fix.


Old school maps and books
HappyTraveler

Grew up using the good old Thomas Guide maps, GPS of that great time in my life. 


Dash air problem
saflyer
29 minutes ago, David Pratt said:

I am sorry but what I meant is that the pump will only run when the system is low on vacuum. The ignition switch must be on and the AC control selected to a Mode for the pump to have power. The internal sensor in the pump will turn the pump on and off. The round black reservoir stores enough vacuum to assist the pump when you switch modes and prevent the pump from running constantly.

I don’t see in the step/vacuum generator wiring diagram in the earlier message where the ignition switch comes into the picture. Does the key connect power directly to the vacuum generator or does it go through some other devices. IOW, what path do I follow to trouble shoot it as I am getting no voltage at the vacuum generator with the key and the AC in the on positions.


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
Ivylog
2 hours ago, waterskier_1 said:

haven't studied the Amp-L-Start or Echo Start type products for use with Lithium batteries.  My initial thought is not to use them. 

When in storage you only want Lithiums at 50-60% charge. IF the Amp-Echo charge voltage is only 13.15 (Lithiums 50% voltage) they could be left on all the time. Like AGMs, Lithiums do not self discharge like L-A batteries.

If you do not dry camp and only go from FHU to FHU CGs, you only need one 12V AGM (no watering) house battery… no need to go Lithiums.


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
96 EVO

Assuming one or more of your heat exchangers on that zone are in a slide, you may need to get your eye's on the feed / return line, and look for kinks.

Have you tried this zone with both, slides out and in?


Water Pump On OFF Switch
Testdepth

Sort of related…

Question: what is the difference in the 2 positions of the water pump switch. In my ‘96 Windsor both positions appear to do the same thing.

Mike


Dash air problem
Ray Davis

Look at the diagram, left lower connector.  It says front dist panel , 7.5A fuse.  I think it says fuse # 19 but it's not clear enough for me.

We would need additional diagrams to see where it ties in with the ignition sw from there.   If the 7.5A fuse fixes it I guess it wouldn't matter how it all connects to the ign.


Water Pump On OFF Switch
Ivan K

On ours the low position makes the other switches inoperative,  I just leave it alone.


Water Pump On OFF Switch
Testdepth

Interesting, I’ll see if our does that as well.


Lithium LifePo4 cells price drop!
waterskier_1
38 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

When in storage you only want Lithiums at 50-60% charge. IF the Amp-Echo charge voltage is only 13.15 (Lithiums 50% voltage) they could be left on all the time. Like AGMs, Lithiums do not self discharge like L-A batteries.

If you do not dry camp and only go from FHU to FHU CGs, you only need one 12V AGM (no watering) house battery… no need to go Lithiums.

I just noticed that Amp-L-Start has a new version (Revision G5) that can be set up for Lithium batteries.  I think this would be the way to go if I wanted to be able to maintain the chassis battery from the house battery.  The main reason I say this is because it also allows you to maintain the chassis batteries when only on solar.  


Water Pump On OFF Switch
Corkman

Thanks for the link Richard Smith


Class A mirrors
Rikadoo

Oh i remember reading about spacecoast, i have heard there work is awsome. I was reaching out cause i may need a hard part, seems my bolt that holds the arm on is siezed in place and if i cant convince it to unscrew im gonna need some hard parts. Kinda figured if i am having issues other folks may have like problem.F54A4D30-BFF2-48CF-8B6D-ABE2114F6F08.thumb.jpeg.d2177eba70f701bc6206929d591a703e.jpeg


Water Pump On OFF Switch
Dr4Film

Bill,

Glad to help! Many of the older members here plus those that have passed on to RV Paradise helped me a lot over all of the years since I have been a Monacoers member. I am just trying to "pay it forward".


Bed Linen
dougknight86

I recently purchase (Jan 2021) new bed linen for the RV. 

In the short time the sheets have been used they are “pilling” (little balls of fabric are forming on the sheet surface).

Can you recommend a place to purchase high quality bed linen. The mattress size is RV King.


Dash air problem
David Pratt

The front dist panel is connected to the Ignition/run source from the Ignition switch. The dist panel is powered up whenever the ignition switch is turned on thus any or all fuses or components on that Dist panel are powered up and feed other components from that board, such as the AC system.

Have you determined if the pump is working by jumping it as suggested.

Is that wiring diagram applicable to your coach? I do not have a wiring diagram for your coach. On the 05 Dynasty, Exec, Sig and Navigator there is a 25 amp fuse that powers the AC control in the dash, the vacuum generator and the evaporator fan,


Bed Linen
Dr4Film

I usually look for bed sheets at the following stores:

TJ Maxx

Marshalls

Bed Bath & Beyond

Home Goods

I try to find good quality cotton linens which have the highest thread count that I can find.

When the top sheet starts to pill I flip it to the other side. I do the same with the bottom fitted sheet.


Cummins 400ISL Oil Change and Transmission Service
FishAR

I have an appt Monday to take my Camelot to the local truck repair place to change the oil, oil filter, trans filters and fluid, grease, put the 2 new belts on I bought but didn't put on.

Also they said they'd try to fix my generator crank but no start problem. On top of that last time I started the cummins and put the dash air on the compressor never would engage so I'm asking them to look at that also. It worked before, not sure what could have happened with it just sitting here in my driveway.

My question is: Is there any reason they'd need to access the engine through the hatches in the bedroom and bedroom closet? I'd just as soon not have them inside pushing slide buttons and such things. Or carrying oil through the entire motorhome.

I have a side radiator and I see a oil fill right on the motor when I look in. I've read it might be slow to fill it there though. Do they fill the trans through the dipstick tube?

The belts are right in front of them, no need for them to go inside for those.

 

They said to leave it but I'll probably stick around awhile, just wanting to be prepared.


Bed Linen
JDCrow

2nd TJ Max and Tuesday mornings

We pick up Nautica, Ralph Lauren, DKNY all quality and discount prices.

 


Cummins 400ISL Oil Change and Transmission Service
jacwjames

Transmission fill would be my only question.   If there is a fill location on the bottom you should be fine, if not they may have to fill from the bedroom hatch. 

Just ask them how then intend to fill the transmission, they may have a fancy gizmo that pumps it in from below.


Engine Temps rising again.
Gary M
On 9/29/2021 at 6:46 AM, Ivylog said:

While 200+ degrees on level ground seems high, we’re you in a high headwind situation? Would explain the poorer mpg.

On my second leg of trip I was getting a head wind. But first leg no wind, temps a little above normal and still 6.5 mpg. I went from 6.5 to 7.5 a year ago when my VGT actuator was replaced and my first software upgrade. 


Cummins 400ISL Oil Change and Transmission Service
Cubflyer

My generator had a habit of not starting due to lack of fuel caused by a dirty fuel filter, coded 3-6 after failed start... might be your crank but no start problem.    https://www.rvandplaya.com/onan-generator-fault-code-36/

Moving blankets on flooring and beds and couches before taking it to them would be a good plan..... just saying...

 


Class A mirrors
Cubflyer

If you can find "Kroil" or ACF50, soak it overnight and try some more.... maybe some heat also... 

Automatic transmission fluid and acetone if you cant find Kroil... or ACF50

 


Cummins 400ISL Oil Change and Transmission Service
Dr4Film

Some Cummins engines may have come with an optional remote transmission fill tube which is accessible from the rear hatch like the one in this photo.

2006 Monaco Dynasty 42 Diamond IV


Rhino liner on the front
Flyinhy

The coach I just bought looks really rough on the front. The clear coat is peeling off pretty bad. I was talking to a guy who repaints these coaches and he suggested rhino liner......has anyone done this to theirs? I know once you do it.....there's no going back 

The rest if the coach looks pretty good for its age. They used really good paint on these things.

 


Rhino liner on the front
JDCrow

There is a recent thread on this subject. And the looks are “subjective” sounds like it depends on where you go. 
 

Not my coach

 

 

DB8205EE-C4D1-4272-B0B6-C3C5B285E58F.jpeg

CF8DCC1C-806F-48A1-BB0C-9C8538E6236A.jpeg

C79218F5-82CE-45EE-A982-98175BD51E16.jpeg


Rhino liner on the front
Bootlegger

The previous owner of my coach had sprayed Rhino liner on the front.  Judge for yourself.

094F7619-05B1-403E-B633-0AACBE5E4811.jpg.8a67a554606722638319ef4ceef090c8.jpg316EF18E-B3C5-458A-A531-CB2D40A3E11B.jpg.c2b493bde2faee108418f01b119136a8.jpg 


Rhino liner on the front
JDCrow
5 minutes ago, Bootlegger said:

The previous owner of my coach had sprayed Rhino liner on the front.  Judge for yourself.

094F7619-05B1-403E-B633-0AACBE5E4811.jpg.8a67a554606722638319ef4ceef090c8.jpg316EF18E-B3C5-458A-A531-CB2D40A3E11B.jpg.c2b493bde2faee108418f01b119136a8.jpg 

Now see that Looks much, much better. I don’t know why more don’t tint colors to match 

 

Got any up close pics of the texture? 


Rhino liner on the front
Bootlegger

These pics are a little closer from today.  Just got back from the Blackhills, so there are still bugs on the front.

20211001_163349.thumb.jpg.d43947024ef8193ec3865d22efb609bb.jpg20211001_163311.thumb.jpg.f9f62888e41ec4c6c9e93f070490259d.jpg20211001_163332.thumb.jpg.84e20ff8f6051bac452e7fc782d5b242.jpg


Rhino liner on the front
JDCrow
1 minute ago, Bootlegger said:

These pics are a little closer from today.  Just got back from the Blackhills, so there are still bugs on the front.

20211001_163349.thumb.jpg.d43947024ef8193ec3865d22efb609bb.jpg20211001_163311.thumb.jpg.f9f62888e41ec4c6c9e93f070490259d.jpg20211001_163332.thumb.jpg.84e20ff8f6051bac452e7fc782d5b242.jpg

Awesome! Thanks. They did a great job. I’m sure there are a few on here that would like to know where it was done. 


Rhino liner on the front
klcdenver

Bootleggers looks really nice. When or if mine gets bad that is what I am planning to do. I am not sold on the solid black. 

Is it any harder to clean the bugs off versus just paint?


Rhino liner on the front
Bootlegger
7 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

Awesome! Thanks. They did a great job. I’m sure there are a few on here that would like to know where it was done. 

Unfortunately, I acquired this RV through a dealership and the previous owner had passed away without leaving any receipts of the work.  

7 minutes ago, klcdenver said:

Bootleggers looks really nice. When or if mine gets bad that is what I am planning to do. I am not sold on the solid black. 

Is it any harder to clean the bugs off versus just paint?

Bugs wash right off.


Class A mirrors
bobdinsmore

After soaking the bolt with the above mentioned penetrating oils, use an impact wrench, starting at low torques (trying to both loosen and tighten). Be patient; it may take several soakings over several days, always trying both directions.


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
Grampy OG
5 hours ago, jacwjames said:

I have a generator sense wire going to my BIRD in my passenger side rear electrical compartment.   Also have one to the AGS.  Also one in my inverter, which is not used but simply passes through.  There is also a generator sense wire running to the two generator start buttons, this is what powers the light indicating the generator is running.  No doubt there is also one running to the RG7 panel.   On my coach it is a blue wire. 

If you have a wiring schematic it will be on it. 

Thanks again guys. I start the big install tomorrow. I think I have all of my ducks in a row. I am wondering because I haven't been able to play with the system:

#1 if once installed, if I leave the batteries isolated with the switch will the generator continue to charge the house batteries and the alternator charge the chassis batteries while traveling? If so hitting the disconnect from the dash is easy enough.

#2 the way the system is currently setup with the Lambert battery maintainer the chassis while parked and connected to shore power only receives a trickle charge and so does not overcharge the chassis batteries. If the ML-ACR is always charging both banks when it is connected to shore power what stops it from overcharging the chassis batteries. My mind is telling me that once the engine shuts off the charge must come from the inverter and once it goes into float mode neither bank should overcharge. Am I on the right track here? Hooking up is one thing but I really like to know the theory of the system as well. 

#3 I am not shy about anything electrical but still a bit puzzled as to where to pull the domestic side of the 12v+. My RRB is quite different from what Van started with so I am going to add a couple shots of the schematic and a picture of my existing RRB setup. What to delete and what to keep advice would not hurt my feelings. I know that the BigBoy and Lambert go out the door but there are quite a few wires in here. 

Thanks a million gang,

I just want reliable charging. 

Included 2 slightly diff views of the RBB and Monaco schematic of the RBB split to make picture taking easier. 

KensRBB view 2.jpg

KensRRB.jpg

RBB view 2.jpg

RRB view 1.jpg


Rhino liner on the front
JDCrow

While I’ve never seen this in person, it’s appears to be a viable solution 

 

 


Rhino liner on the front
Flyinhy
1 hour ago, Bootlegger said:

These pics are a little closer from today.  Just got back from the Blackhills, so there are still bugs on the front.

20211001_163349.thumb.jpg.d43947024ef8193ec3865d22efb609bb.jpg20211001_163311.thumb.jpg.f9f62888e41ec4c6c9e93f070490259d.jpg20211001_163332.thumb.jpg.84e20ff8f6051bac452e7fc782d5b242.jpg

That looks awesome....I really like that.


Aqua Hot front zone not heating
Chargerman

Did you recently change the boiler fluid?

you could also try filling the line with fluid at the heat exchanger 


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
vanwill52
36 minutes ago, Grampy OG said:

Thanks again guys. I start the big install tomorrow. I think I have all of my ducks in a row. I am wondering because I haven't been able to play with the system:

#1 if once installed, if I leave the batteries isolated with the switch will the generator continue to charge the house batteries and the alternator charge the chassis batteries while traveling? If so hitting the disconnect from the dash is easy enough.

#2 the way the system is currently setup with the Lambert battery maintainer the chassis while parked and connected to shore power only receives a trickle charge and so does not overcharge the chassis batteries. If the ML-ACR is always charging both banks when it is connected to shore power what stops it from overcharging the chassis batteries. My mind is telling me that once the engine shuts off the charge must come from the inverter and once it goes into float mode neither bank should overcharge. Am I on the right track here? Hooking up is one thing but I really like to know the theory of the system as well. 

#3 I am not shy about anything electrical but still a bit puzzled as to where to pull the domestic side of the 12v+. My RRB is quite different from what Van started with so I am going to add a couple shots of the schematic and a picture of my existing RRB setup. What to delete and what to keep advice would not hurt my feelings. I know that the BigBoy and Lambert go out the door but there are quite a few wires in here. 

Thanks a million gang,

I just want reliable charging. 

Included 2 slightly diff views of the RBB and Monaco schematic of the RBB split to make picture taking easier. 

KensRBB view 2.jpg

KensRRB.jpg

RBB view 2.jpg

RRB view 1.jpg

Ken, I think it will become more clear to you as you begin removing things.  You will remove the blue SSI, the green Lambert, and the Big Boy (Battery Boost) contactor.  You'll then have plenty of room for the ML-ACR.  The center cable on your SSI is ALWAYS from the alternator.  You connect that center cable AND the cable going to your chassis batteries TOGETHER onto either of the large posts of the ML-ACR.  That means your alternator will ALWAYS be charging your chassis batteries anytime your engine is running.  Connect the other cable on your SSI (it is from your house batteries) to the OTHER large post on the ML-ACR.

BE SURE BOTH HOUSE AND CHASSIS BATTERY CABLES ARE NOT "HOT" BEFORE YOU BEGIN!!!

The present wires going to the Lambert Charger you can either remove or simply cover in heat-shrink tubing and tie out of the way.  You can do the same with the small wires going to the Big Boy.

You will almost surely have to make additional cables to extend their reach to the ML-ACR, or make a workmanlike extension, covered in double layers of heat-shrink tubing.

Before you start, insure that you have enough additional 4/0 cable and all the copper end lugs you will need.  Be sure you buy WELDING cable, NOT battery cable.  Battery cable is MUCH less flexible and difficult to work with.  I have run so many 4/0 cables on mine and other's coaches that I have a large assortment of the lugs and a cheap $60 Chinese hydraulic crimper (Amazon) that makes a hexagon crimp on the lugs.  Buy 4/0 lugs with the smallest available hole, and you will only need one part number.  Enlarge the hole to suit using one of the multi-step drill tools.  DO NOT USE A DRILL BIT!  It will INEVITABLY grab in the copper material as you break thru.  Use heat-shrink tubing on all your crimps and remember to slide the heat-shrink on the cable BEFORE you crimp the lug!

Question #1--YES

Question # 2--YES, your inverter/charger will be applying its 3-stage charging to BOTH your house and chassis batteries.  No problem with overcharging.

Question #3--The house side of your battery bank (according to your diagram) is the bottom cable on the SSI.  That IS your B+ for the house batteries.  It IS the cable that will connect (alone) to one of the ML-ACR large lugs.  The OTHER large lug on the ML-ACR will have your ALTERNATOR output and your CHASSIS battery cable lugs connected (together).

You are welcome to private message me (or post your cell number) and we can exchange cell numbers, so I can help you.  I don't answer calls from numbers I do not recognize.

Good luck!  It is much simpler than it seems.  Just remember that the ML-ACR uses some internal circuitry similar to BIRD circuitry to accomplish only ONE thing--it either CONNECTS both of the large lugs of the ML-ACR together (charging all batteries from any available source) or it DISCONNECTS the chassis batteries from the house batteries (when there is no charging source) to PRESERVE the chassis battery charge.


Air Intake Drain Hose I Assume
tmw188
9 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

Morning Todd,

Those many, many holes across the top, is that the air intake?   My 03 Windsor looks a lot like yours but without the holes.  My air intake is a square grill high in the rear pass side.

I think Richard's 02 Windsor is like mine, and as far as I know I don't have a drain hose on mine either.  Actually I can't recall ever seeing a Windsor with the holes up there.   It looks good, but I could see a problem when washing the coach,  a stream of rinse water up that way and you could get lots of water in there.                    Maybe that's why you have that drain hose.  It's pretty easy to rinse around my intake grill.

Here's your picture showing the holes.    Let us know if the filter has been wet,  with the drain stopped up it just might have been.  

 9535259B-415A-4F06-A247-8E0E38610C63.jpeg

Yep, I’m very careful washing and especially rinsing around that area. 


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
waterskier_1
2 hours ago, Grampy OG said:

Thanks again guys. I start the big install tomorrow. I think I have all of my ducks in a row. I am wondering because I haven't been able to play with the system:

#1 if once installed, if I leave the batteries isolated with the switch will the generator continue to charge the house batteries and the alternator charge the chassis batteries while traveling? If so hitting the disconnect from the dash is easy enough.

#2 the way the system is currently setup with the Lambert battery maintainer the chassis while parked and connected to shore power only receives a trickle charge and so does not overcharge the chassis batteries. If the ML-ACR is always charging both banks when it is connected to shore power what stops it from overcharging the chassis batteries. My mind is telling me that once the engine shuts off the charge must come from the inverter and once it goes into float mode neither bank should overcharge. Am I on the right track here? Hooking up is one thing but I really like to know the theory of the system as well. 

#3 I am not shy about anything electrical but still a bit puzzled as to where to pull the domestic side of the 12v+. My RRB is quite different from what Van started with so I am going to add a couple shots of the schematic and a picture of my existing RRB setup. What to delete and what to keep advice would not hurt my feelings. I know that the BigBoy and Lambert go out the door but there are quite a few wires in here. 

Thanks a million gang,

I just want reliable charging. 

Included 2 slightly diff views of the RBB and Monaco schematic of the RBB split to make picture taking easier. 

KensRBB view 2.jpg

KensRRB.jpg

RBB view 2.jpg

RRB view 1.jpg

Generally speaking, the disconnect switches disconnect LOADS, not SOURCES.   That applies to the dash salesman switch also.  


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
Grampy OG
8 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:

Generally speaking, the disconnect switches disconnect LOADS, not SOURCES.   That applies to the dash salesman switch also.  

Lucky me. I just spent 1 hour on the phone with Paul Whittle and all of my fuzziness has been clarified. Time now to yank out the tools and Git 'Er Dun.....

 

Thanks again everyone

Ken

 

56 minutes ago, vanwill52 said:

Ken, I think it will become more clear to you as you begin removing things.  You will remove the blue SSI, the green Lambert, and the Big Boy (Battery Boost) contactor.  You'll then have plenty of room for the ML-ACR.  The center cable on your SSI is ALWAYS from the alternator.  You connect that center cable AND the cable going to your chassis batteries TOGETHER onto either of the large posts of the ML-ACR.  That means your alternator will ALWAYS be charging your chassis batteries anytime your engine is running.  Connect the other cable on your SSI (it is from your house batteries) to the OTHER large post on the ML-ACR.

BE SURE BOTH HOUSE AND CHASSIS BATTERY CABLES ARE NOT "HOT" BEFORE YOU BEGIN!!!

The present wires going to the Lambert Charger you can either remove or simply cover in heat-shrink tubing and tie out of the way.  You can do the same with the small wires going to the Big Boy.

You will almost surely have to make additional cables to extend their reach to the ML-ACR, or make a workmanlike extension, covered in double layers of heat-shrink tubing.

Before you start, insure that you have enough additional 4/0 cable and all the copper end lugs you will need.  Be sure you buy WELDING cable, NOT battery cable.  Battery cable is MUCH less flexible and difficult to work with.  I have run so many 4/0 cables on mine and other's coaches that I have a large assortment of the lugs and a cheap $60 Chinese hydraulic crimper (Amazon) that makes a hexagon crimp on the lugs.  Buy 4/0 lugs with the smallest available hole, and you will only need one part number.  Enlarge the hole to suit using one of the multi-step drill tools.  DO NOT USE A DRILL BIT!  It will INEVITABLY grab in the copper material as you break thru.  Use heat-shrink tubing on all your crimps and remember to slide the heat-shrink on the cable BEFORE you crimp the lug!

Question #1--YES

Question # 2--YES, your inverter/charger will be applying its 3-stage charging to BOTH your house and chassis batteries.  No problem with overcharging.

Question #3--The house side of your battery bank (according to your diagram) is the bottom cable on the SSI.  That IS your B+ for the house batteries.  It IS the cable that will connect (alone) to one of the ML-ACR large lugs.  The OTHER large lug on the ML-ACR will have your ALTERNATOR output and your CHASSIS battery cable lugs connected (together).

You are welcome to private message me (or post your cell number) and we can exchange cell numbers, so I can help you.  I don't answer calls from numbers I do not recognize.

Good luck!  It is much simpler than it seems.  Just remember that the ML-ACR uses some internal circuitry similar to BIRD circuitry to accomplish only ONE thing--it either CONNECTS both of the large lugs of the ML-ACR together (charging all batteries from any available source) or it DISCONNECTS the chassis batteries from the house batteries (when there is no charging source) to PRESERVE the chassis battery charge.

Thanks Van. We actually phone chatted about this back in early July but I was on the road and tossed it on the backburner. All your suggestions are heartly taken.

Ken

 


2005 Monaco Executive for Sale - Asking $143,750 (negotiable)
Alan Hale

I love my Executive but I'm finding that it's not a good match for me as a solo traveler. I also have a 2014 Jeep Wrangler that is equipped with the Air Force One braking system that I would be willing to sell in addition to the coach. Please see the ad in RVTrader for all the details.

 

https://www.rvtrader.com/listing/2005-Monaco-EXECUTIVE+40PBDD-50177402181373125429_2021-09-0310_55_59.thumb.jpg.9d71a9b191925d3b3742b9daa92be43a.jpg

Executive For Sale Ad_Page_1.jpg

Executive For Sale Ad_Page_2.jpg

Executive For Sale Ad_Page_3.jpg


Toad Breakaway Cable
Gary 05 AMB DST

Installing my breakaway switch and cable and I saw a concerning point. With the car attached to the tow bars, there was 48 inches from my measuring point to the switch. The safety cables with my Blue Ox tow bar, the black spiral ones, are 87 inches long. The spiral breakaway cable was 97 inches long when stretched out. So if the car breaks away from the tow bar, it will go back 87 inches. The breakaway cable being 97 inches long would never pull the pin. Slow down the MH and the toad will ram into the rear of the MH. This could be repeated many times before stopping. In order to stop this from happening, I shortened the breakaway cable to 65" and that would pull the pin before the safety cables are maxed out.  I'd rather have a damaged car than the MH. It took me 16 years and a new supplemental braking system (RVi3) to realize those breakaway cables aren't effective. Fortunately never needed them.

Gary 05 AMB DST


Cummins 400ISL Oil Change and Transmission Service
vito.a

Our transmission dip stick and filler tube are under the bedroom hatch.  

Also, be careful what transmission fluid they use.  Most commercial truck places do not use Allison Transynd as it is priced very high.  


Toad Breakaway Cable
JDCrow
11 minutes ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

Installing my breakaway switch and cable and I saw a concerning point. With the car attached to the tow bars, there was 48 inches from my measuring point to the switch. The safety cables with my Blue Ox tow bar, the black spiral ones, are 87 inches long. The spiral breakaway cable was 97 inches long when stretched out. So if the car breaks away from the tow bar, it will go back 87 inches. The breakaway cable being 97 inches long would never pull the pin. Slow down the MH and the toad will ram into the rear of the MH. This could be repeated many times before stopping. In order to stop this from happening, I shortened the breakaway cable to 65" and that would pull the pin before the safety cables are maxed out.  I'd rather have a damaged car than the MH. It took me 16 years and a new supplemental braking system (RVi3) to realize those breakaway cables aren't effective. Fortunately never needed them.

Gary 05 AMB DST

Will be rereading this later. Getting ready to do same 


Toad Breakaway Cable
David White

I guess my assumption that the safety cables are designed to catch the toad in case of break away (before brake activation) might not be the only option on this. I  prefer the brake activation in case the cables fail. My assumption would mean the brake cable would be longer.

I had assumed also that the extra pressure put on the cables by the braking could actually over stress and cause the safety cables to fail. Then, even though braking, the car is loose and possibly damage or injure others behind me.  I had rather take the damage to my vehicles than risk what could happen to others.

Apparently there are more schools of thought on this subject.


2002 Dip, first MH to cut our teeth on
JDCrow

Got off work an hour early. Worked on the step cover 

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Rhino liner on the front
Ray Davis

Barry,  The color match is so perfect it makes me wonder is it clear bed liner over paint?  Either way it looks great.

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Rhino liner on the front
Jdw12345

I personally think it’s an excellent alternative! 
 

Probably last a long time!   Jmo!


Toad Breakaway Cable
Scott 61

I have a Roadmaster even brake it is connected with a airline from my motorhome to my car the airline is longer than my safety cables so I will still have brakes on my car???


Rhino liner on the front
JDCrow
22 minutes ago, Ray Davis said:

Barry,  The color match is so perfect it makes me wonder is it clear bed liner over paint?  Either way it looks great.

20211001_163311.thumb.jpg.f9f62888e41ec4c6c9e93f070490259d.jpg

I agree


Drivers side rear slide won’t come out
LarryB

Thx all for ur responses. My manual has the tips on how to manually open or close the slide. We were up a dirt road in Duck creek Utah when this happened. The plastic broke gear is metal and $28 on Amazon. ALLWAYS bring ur tools my friends. 


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