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Front Door Scissor Fix


Grampy OG
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Hi folks, this is my first post to the new home of Bill D's. I have searched and searched but can't seem to locate a file that I am sure I downloaded from the previous location (yahoo). There was a post and attachment detailing the removal of the front door scissor assembly and replacing it with a gas spring (strut). If somebody could please point me to it or re-post it I would sure appreciate it. I'm not sure if it was coach specific but it was going to work perfectly for my 2003 Executive. 

 

The site is coming along nicely,  thanks to all for the hard work. 

Ken Wilcox

2003 The Executive

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Ken,

I did that modification to my 2002 Knight, and am very happy with it. I don't have handy any files or messages on Monacoers, but here are a couple of links I referred to for my project:

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Thank you for the posts. I didn't realize that the strut went outside. Looks doable though. Also thanks for the reply Paul A. but having never been on FB I can't take advantage of the file. 

Ken Wilcox

2003 The Executive

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  • 2 weeks later...

Your call on doing the Gas Strut.  Mikey used to fix them.  He installed a harder "Tinners" rivet.  Mine was replaced under warranty....and it finally got so weak, I used a bungee cord to the mirror.

Someone suggested this link.  I called Randall and he fixed mine.  He is an Ex Car Dealer Parts guy or maybe a mechanic.  He found an OEM rivet or something similar that will work on the scissors link.

rjb4jcpa@gmail.com
His name is Randall Bergen
310/626-7958
Steve Ownby
Full time since '07

Randall rebuilt mine about  3 years, maybe longer ago.  It is STILL working.  I have to park the MH at a slight angle due to my driveway.  It still "locks" in place even with the rear being lower than the front.

The fix was in the $40 - $50 range.  Nope....it is NOT a Gas Strut....and if you can find the hardware and such to mount the strut to your liking....that is great.  Certainly NOT knocking it.

But, if you have the present scissors link repaired, you should be good to go for several years.  I used  SS rivets (you need a special long handled tool as they will destroy a hand held one).  Get one of the long (13" or so with hardened jaws) tools from Amazon.  They are great and I use it a lot....

 

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Thank you Tom,

While the gas shock was a thought I did not realize it was to be mounted outside of the door. That was a deal breaker for me. I will look for a repair as you did and until then the bungee has worked. Mine seems to be an opposite problem in that it locks into place and then will not unlock with a tug unless I give it (the scissor) a slight tap with my hand but to do that I have to be on the top step. First world problem I guess.

Ken Wilcox

2003 The Executive

 

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Mikey's fix was more permanent than mine.  If you remove the scissor linkage and position the rivet over a sturdy steel surface, you can whack it a couple of times with a hammer, and it tightens it up like new.  I've had to do that every couple of years for the last seven years.  Costs nothing but an hour's work.  Perhaps someone has had a problem more serious than mine, but this has worked on both my Dynasty's.

Van Williams

2000 Dynasty 36, 195,000 miles

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Whatever works....  I wanted a fix that I would not have to drill out in a few years.  SOME industrious individuals have put in custom made threaded inserts.....and can easily remove the scissors...

Randall may not being doing this....or he may be more than happy for the opportunity.  There is no negative....IT BROKE AGAIN that I could find on his approach and he was aware of the Tinner's rivet.  I just put it on and have enjoyed having it work again.  It MIGHT be a little stiff now....but that is better than being limp.... LOL....

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14 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Whatever works....  I wanted a fix that I would not have to drill out in a few years.  SOME industrious individuals have put in custom made threaded inserts.....and can easily remove the scissors...

Randall may not being doing this....or he may be more than happy for the opportunity.  There is no negative....IT BROKE AGAIN that I could find on his approach and he was aware of the Tinner's rivet.  I just put it on and have enjoyed having it work again.  It MIGHT be a little stiff now....but that is better than being limp.... LOL....

One of those industrious individuals was me. This was not my ideal but a friend suggested using Poly-nuts in the swing arm where it attaches to the door to replace the blind rivets. It is my opinion that the Tinner's rivet does not wear in a linear fashion and once it becomes loose will almost stop wearing. My solution to the swing arm was to increase the detent by adding a pan head screw to the top of the dimple. This is a better approach than bending the swing arm and is still working well after two years. When we bent the swing arm we encountered rattling in the top of the door frame and interference with the door frame.

1781997415_Redneckfixforswingarm.thumb.jpg.325ed7f694eac92311b7644649acd4cb.jpg1019411896_Swingarmtodoor.thumb.jpg.56e72337e08af3248d4867679f5a2c5c.jpg

Poly-nut and screw.jpg

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Bob,

Great idea.  In addition, it also allows you to remove the swing arm and using your "Friend's" suggestion.....whack it properly with a suitable instrument of force....but with his or your experienced hands.   Sure beat drilling out 3/16 (maybe smaller) SS Pop Rivets....

FWIW.  

TO ALL....Bending it up and down to fix it is not what I have been told is correct.  You change the tension and then that tends to elongate the play....thereby making it even worse.  The tech that tried that, who was experienced, finally said.  Maybe I should not have done that....and ordered me a warranty replacement.  Mine failed during the extended warranty...  In my case, I THINK (long ago), the bending up caused the arm to wear on the internal door seal so he had to replace it as well.

 

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When my scissor arm became loose many years ago, I employed the ball-peen hammer whack it approach.  That worked fine for a couple years, but eventually the rivet wore to the point that it no longer worked (it was literally about to fall out).  A quick trip to my local ACE hardware provided me with a new set of rivets.  They were too long, but a few minutes on my bench grinder and they were the right length.  They have been in service now for about four years.  The new rivets I installed must be harder than the originals since they are not wearing as fast.  So, a cheap solution is available, it just takea a little time to replace the rivets.

 

Richard

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