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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/575-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Tire PSI Settings
Newcsn
Tire lifespan
Dr4Film
Tire PSI Settings
Ivylog
Wet bay heater question
Dr4Film
Air leak
Ivylog
Wet bay heater question
Scotty Hutto
Flexsteel Seat Covers Finally
azlein
Rv rehab.
BobSchmeck
04 Windsor bed slide adjustment
Ray Davis
Monaco/2005 Safari Gazelle
redstickbill
Wet bay heater question
jacwjames
Rv rehab.
Ernie Ekberg
04 Windsor bed slide adjustment
Chuck B
TDS fuel card
Joelsheriff
IOTA have listened
tmw188
Slideout adjustment
Twomed
TDS fuel card
Twomed
Air Bag numbers for 2007 Executive
Dennis H
Slideout adjustment
Cousin Eddie
Slideout adjustment
Cousin Eddie
Creating the Toad
JDCrow
New Cummins engine
Chuck B
Insurance
Gary 05 AMB DST
New coach, battery setup questions
waterskier_1
Insurance
waterskier_1
Insurance
TigerMar
New Cummins engine
Wrayj1
New Cummins engine
Chuck B
New coach, battery setup questions
RoadTripper2084
Insurance
Mark B
Air Bag numbers for 2007 Executive
pbustamante41
Rv rehab.
mmccwill
Insurance
DrDon4u
Double the heat from Aquahot Zones
granvillebarker
Flexsteel Seat Covers Finally
Gary M
TDS fuel card
Gary M
Insurance
woodylmiller
Repair or Replace Refrigerator
woodylmiller
Salesman Switch Solenoid
Bob Wightman
Side view cameras
woodylmiller

New Posts

Tire PSI Settings
Newcsn
10 hours ago, Paul A. said:

You will get an accurate weight where ever your axle is on the platforms[tables].  Just stradle the drive and tag axles between the 2nd and 3rd platforms. When adjusting the Down pressure on the tag, the Drive axle becomes a fulcrum point and you move weight to/from the front axle,  to,  to/from the tag axle, by raising/lowering the Down pressure. The weight on the Drive axle is minimally effected. Just like a teeter totter. Remember?

Thank you Paul A! This makes perfect sense!


Tire lifespan
Dr4Film
9 hours ago, woodylmiller said:

It's very hard to pay a lot of money on tires, but it's important.  It is not fun to throw tires away due to age and not being worn out due to mileage.  All 8 of my tires had thousands of miles left in tread.  6 had hit the 7 year mark and the other two were new Goodyears that I did not want on the coach based on reputation of the tires and not science.  Now I have peace of mind with 8 new TOYO's and less money.  In the process now of trashing the braided valve extenders.

Woody Miller

You are a very WISE man indeed!

I like the Toyo's also as they were very affordable.  As for the valve stems, the Borg stems have been trouble free for 11 years now and counting. Never have to worry about them failing PLUS the biggest benefit is being able to reach them easily for air adjustments and for the TPMS sensors.


Tire PSI Settings
Ivylog
11 hours ago, Paul A. said:

The weight on the Drive axle is minimally effected. Just like a teeter totter. 

Sorry but the opposite is true. If you increase the weight on the tag 1000 lbs, the drive decreases 1200 lbs and the steer increase 200 lbs on a 45’ rig. There is no fulcrum in the middle, it’s a arm and  it’s on a 280” to 44” ratio …6/1 approx.


Wet bay heater question
Dr4Film
21 hours ago, jacwjames said:

Richard

My 2002 Windsor came with wet bay heater but not the tank heat pads.  It appears though that it came prewired for the tank hear pads,  I found a 10 awg wire tucked up the black water tank. 

I looked at the diagram and the way I read it is that the snap disc controls both the wet bay heater and the tank heat pads.  Am I right???

I am contemplating installing the heat pads, do have them.  The ones on the drawing show 9 amp, so ~+100 watt each.   I think it would be pretty easy to install on the fresh water tank as I can lift it up enough to slide them underneath.  Not so much on the black and grey tank as the plumbing on top would restrict how much I could lift them up.  Any thoughts on whether it would be worth installing the tank heat pads???

Most likely the wiring harness used in building our coaches is pretty similar. Just depends on the options asked for at the time of purchase.

The Tank Pads are not controlled by the snap disc. If you look closer at the wiring diagram the 12 VDC positive for the pads is a RED wire that goes over to a relay PRIOR to going through the Snap Disc. What is not shown on the diagram is the relay which is inside the Service Bay heater.

When you turn on the System Heat switch, power is sent to the Snap DIsc and also to the Tank Pad relay. The relay closes powering up the Tank Pad heaters. The Service Bay heater will not get power until the Snap Disc located in the bay closes.

Does this make sense?

I will leave the decision up to you as to whether they are worth installing or not. It really depends on where you like to travel. Since we go to Alaska due to my sons and grand-kids living there, I have used the System Heat on occasions in Canada & Alaska. We get there early in May and leave just before snowfall in late September. If the temps are in the low 40's I will turn the System Heat switch on.

Also, we have Aqua-Hot which has a Heat Exchanger just for the Tank Bay. So we have a secondary heat source for keeping the tanks in good shape.


Air leak
Ivylog

Frank, the subject was blocking a S-10 up using wooden blocks under the hitch (not the receiver)… some said it wasn’t strong enough to hold the coach up…looks like it is.


Questions about SCS dash HVAC operation, getting more heat
klcdenver

I am on my second Monaco and the heat is marginal at best on both of them. It is not designed to heat that large of an area. I got a couple of small electric heaters and place them so they blow on my feet mainly while driving. 


What power to use for Residential Refrigerator?
eddie4ne

We are planning to change our Norcold 1200 to a residential refrigerator . I am wondering if it would be a good idea to plug the refrigerator into an appliance 6’ extension cord to be able to unplug it from inside the coach. We just returned from a 4 month tour and 3 days out the Norcold crapped out on us! We bought a dorm sized refrigerator and drilled a hole in the left side “cabinet wall” of the frig to bring the extension inside from the refrigerator area so as to not overload the kitchen circuit. Would it be any advantage to plugging the residential frig into that same extension? Or, after the install of the residential frig, can you access the electric plug without pulling out the frig…or do you need to access the plug???


Wet bay heater question
Scotty Hutto

As someone who doesn’t have an Aqua-Hot (😢), the wet bay heater and tank pads are a lifesaver.  

It took a while to get everything operating correctly. The biggest culprit on mine was the thermal fuse inside the heater.  There is a great write-up on how to repair that. I bought a pack of those fuses and crimps; let me know if you need a couple. 🤣

As anectodal info, it doesn’t get *that* cold in Atlanta, so we don’t winterize.  The coach stays plugged in to a 15a circuit and I have temp sensors in the coach and wet bay that send me a text if it’s getting too cold. The wet bay heater keeps the wet bay in the high 40’s low 50’s down to about 20°F. Maybe lower, but I haven’t experienced lower temps since getting everything fixed. 


Flexsteel Seat Covers Finally
azlein

Could you post some pictures?


Rv rehab.
BobSchmeck
22 hours ago, Ernie Ekberg said:

After all the decades in the business, we only use first quality materials. More expensive? YES- do we have delamination, gaps, discoloration, warping, swelling, ? NO. You get and achieve what you pay for. 
No box store flooring touches my hands. Ernie Ekberg- old and sticking to what I know works

Since we live in Arizona and have to travel for you to do the work.  What flooring do you use?


What power to use for Residential Refrigerator?
planodp

Thank you everyone for the great advice. Sound like the inverter power outlet is the way to go. The wife is not to happy about loosing the bottom draw 🤕.

I went with Hisense 17.2-cu ft Counter-Depth Bottom-Freezer Refrigerator with Ice Maker (Stainless Steel) ENERGY STAR

Model #HRB171N6BSE  I can it in thru the front door. Door opening on the Monaco is 25 5/8. I’ll have to check on the PSW or MSW power.

Bob,

3-way switch is a great ideal. Awesome!


04 Windsor bed slide adjustment
Ray Davis

Here is a thread that may shed some light on bedroom slide construction and a problem that could cause your issue.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/quick-tips-and-easy-mods-monaco-style-17034-77.html

Click image for larger version  Name: bed_box.jpg Views: 131 Size: 279.9 KB ID: 192158


Monaco/2005 Safari Gazelle
redstickbill

I also found out low fluid level was my problem with the alarm going off when I made a turn or went over railroad tracks. I found the answer here many years ago when I had an 02 Diplomat. The reservoir on that coach was in the compartment aft of the drive tires on the drivers side.

Bill B 07 Dynasty


Wet bay heater question
jacwjames

Thanks Richard

Makes sense that the tank pad heaters wouldn't be controlled by the snap disc since it will go on/off pretty quickly and not let the tank pad heaters get warm long enough to do any good.   I'll have to do some testing on how mine is set up and see if I can actually get power to the wires I found above the black tank.  What was funny is that they did not cap them, they were just cut wires inside the protective loom. 

Since I don't have a secondary heat source it might be worth while to get tank heaters in place.  I could look at installing a second switch in the bathroom to turn just the tank pads on/off if the system heat is on. 

Looking at other options for a backup heating system if I do make this cold weather trip. 

I will probably look at installing the Reflectix R-21 insulation in the windows and maybe some of the cabinets, every little bit helps. 


Rv rehab.
Ernie Ekberg

Quality engineered wood is manufactured by Shaw, Anderson, Armstrong, Earthwerks, Hartco, Mirage. There are a few others. But these are the ones we have used most. 
 


04 Windsor bed slide adjustment
Chuck B

I had the same issue with my 2004 Windsor.  Raise the bed.  Locate the screws that hold the wooden cover on the box.  Remove the screws to open the cover of the box.  You should find two angle aluminum pieces that hold the box to the slide.  More than likely they are not secured properly.  The floor covering is carpet, not wooded planks.  Make sure that there is not anything such as clothing that is under the bed box.  Reassemble.  Good luck, Chuck B 2004 Windsor


TDS fuel card
Joelsheriff

Paid 386.9 FJ no discount the next day 299.9 Costco with additional 5%on cc. 


IOTA have listened
tmw188
On 9/28/2021 at 3:55 PM, Grampy OG said:

I can see how that is a big problem. I used these ferrules and I feel much better about it. 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I9E0X0A?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

I had to buy this crimper to do the large gauge but I am sure it was $30 well spent. 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R8LF34F?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

Ken

Ken what do you think was suspect for this whole scenario that played out. Did it start with the male plug getting hot and work its way back to the Transfer Switch just wondering? I plan on doing the change out but just curious about all those extra plugs. With your install were  you happy with the crimpers ability to do the job? Also I’m trying to find the ferrules with the collars on them can’t find any larger than 7ga. 


Questions about SCS dash HVAC operation, getting more heat
trailmug

I'd say ours is sufficient down to maybe 50 outside and then the aqua hot pumps become necessary even for driver comfort (though we don't need to run the diesel burner). Wonder how well it was burped after the valve was installed. Maybe try burping the hoses to see if you can release an air bubble? 

A/C does run on defrost. 


Questions about SCS dash HVAC operation, getting more heat
Rikadoo

Mornin Ken, so after reading your text im reminded of my days working on cars an trucks. On both Chevy and Ford when ever the thermostat is 180 degrees i ALWAYS recieved complaints from owners that the heater must be having a problem because it never got hot coming out of the ducts! Then first thing i would do is to install the required 192 or 195 tstat an that solved there issues. Its going to be intresting this year to see how my coach heater works this year cause i just compleated a major overhaul of my cooling system and my temp gauge went from almost 200 down to 180. Last year when using my heater i had to turn it down cause it was so hot.

Theres possably one more thing to keep in mind, in a sticks an bricks house we wrap the pipes to prevent heat loss, i know for me the amount of hoses are over 30 ft in both directions, perhaps covering the hot side of the hose feeding the heater might be in order. Either way im going to see the effect of my heater operation this winter as well.


Questions about SCS dash HVAC operation, getting more heat
Ivan K

I keep the outside air inlet door permanently closed with a hook at the vacuum actuator. Otherwise it would only close at Max Air setting and AC compressor would run at the same time as heating. Works better for both cooling and heating this way but still need AH at times. Not sure who made our system, pretty complex with vacuum solenoid bank controlling the vacuum actuators.


What power to use for Residential Refrigerator?
vanwill52
19 hours ago, cbr046 said:

Slightly off topic but here's a link for Samsung RF18HFENBBC Power Usage

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f54/samsung-rf18hfenbbc-power-usage-277840.html

I thought it would be handy for peeps like me trying to decide on absorption vs residential.  Our Notsocold went belly up Friday.  We do a lot of boondocking so was leaning absorption.  Now I'm wondering how to go out with the old and in with the new . . . . without removing a window!

Confused in Georgia,

- bob

Edit - Gotta nix that idea . . . . Heater is under the fridge and only have 65" to play with. 

If your furnace is Suburban, it is rated for ZERO clearance on its BOTTOM side.  Many of the Suburbans are mounted on "stilts".  Remove the stilts, mount furnace to floor.  Use holesaw to add additional thru-wall hole for relocated in/out air/exhaust.  This gave me just barely enough room to install Samsung RF18 in my 2000 Dynasty.  There are many threads on this forum and iRV2 describing this modification.  Best modification to the coach interior I ever made!


Slideout adjustment
Twomed

Cuz Eddie's question on air "full air"

He meant was the air syatem fully charged, jacks if you have them UP, HHW in travel mode and at ride height ready to go BEFORE pulling in the slide.   

If you are in a spot that is not real level and pull in slides the situation you had could occur.  Often you get away without being a full air and ride height BUT sometimes it does not work... may even cause damage.


TDS fuel card
Twomed
On 10/12/2021 at 1:23 PM, Joelsheriff said:

So I just filled up with $200 at Pilot Flying J at 385 a gallon and got no discount not one penny is that correct or is this card that I was trying trying to screw rvers like all the oil companies are currently doing to the rest of the world

IT WORKS...but only IF you follow directions.

Download their (TSD)  app  TSD Open Roads app...at bottom of screen click MORE...under INFORMATION...read VIEW INSTRUCTIONS.

When you familiarize yoursel with how it works you will be successful.  ALSO note that not all Petro/TA will be a discount station. 

Example:  Oak Grove , MO  just east of Kansas City... same exit there is a Petro on south side of I70 NO DISCOUNT...a TA on the north side same exit that DOES DISCOUNT. 🤑

ALWAYS check the TSD APP  before you fuel or you may not be at a contracted for discount location.  You will also note under the INSTRUCTIONS that Pilot/FJ is no longer listed for any discount at all.

As an early user of TSD things have evolved for the better...proper use always up to the user.  Yeah EFS has route plan which was may be a plus but in the end ONLY the Open Roads TSD app will have the correct info to get your discount.

Safe travels... 

 


Air Bag numbers for 2007 Executive
Dennis H

My cost was about $1800 to replace all 10 air springs, about 2 months ago....Dennis


Slideout adjustment
Cousin Eddie

A few questions to fully understand: Does the top of the slide fully close against the sidewall? Do the slide locks fully engage/lock? Are you operating the slide (extending and retracting) with full air on the coach?


Slideout adjustment
Cousin Eddie

To expand on Twomed’s comments: I’m not sure if there is an adjustment you can make to bring the bottom in that last half inch. But I do know something about how to *improperly* retract a slide because I broke 2 slide locks in the last 4 years of ownership by doing it wrong before I read the instructions (I’m a slow learner). For my coach- a 2 slide ‘03 Dynasty with hydraulic leveling- the proper procedure is to extend the slide with full air on the suspension *before* leveling the coach, and to retract the slide *after* you build full air prior to bringing the slide in. It’s my theory that the opening in the sidewall “racks” slightly when on the levelers, preventing the locking mechanism to clear the seal and sidewall, which damages the slide lock- it’s a very tight opening. It could also create enough stress on the components to do things similar to what you’re experiencing. 
 

Now my question is What the heck do the slide locks- commonly seen on early 2000’s Monaco products- actually do? Can they be removed? 
 

PS. I owned a 2002 Dynasty with 2 slides and an air leveling system for 5 years and never had an issue with breaking slide locks. I think the problem occurs when you have hydraulic levelers. 


Creating the Toad
JDCrow

Made is down last night 10 pm. Left Nephi early, only to turn on Main Street In Levan and heard a pop. Thought I should investigate, and glad I did. Another day was blown getting it towed and fixed, but we are all safe 

49FC1527-8A3B-429A-8813-7C91497DF885.jpeg

85C4347A-FC5A-4471-B627-584C177698CF.jpeg

9A6052B2-BA3F-4A3B-94C1-2AA1E8029A3A.jpeg


New Cummins engine
Chuck B

COLUMBUS, Ind. – Cummins Inc. (NYSE: CMI) today (Oct. 14) announced that it will bring to market a 15-liter natural gas engine for heavy-duty trucks. The 15-liter natural gas engine is an important part of Cummins strategy for its path to zero emissions to go further, faster to reduce the greenhouse gas and air quality impacts of its products in a way that is best for its customers and all stakeholders, according to a release.

The strategy focuses on new powertrains including advanced diesel, natural gas, hydrogen engines, hybrids, battery electric, and fuel cells along with an increased use of low carbon fuels and renewable electricity and related infrastructure. The expanding product lineup will help achieve Cummins’ PLANET 2050 environmental goals which include lowering emissions from newly sold products by 30% by 2030 and a goal of carbon neutrality by 2050, aligned with the Paris Climate Accord targets.

“Cummins continues to expand our portfolio of power solutions options so customers can meet their business goals and operational objectives, while also meeting emissions standards and achieving their sustainability goals,” said Srikanth Padmanabhan, President, Engine Business, Cummins. “We believe this natural gas option is a game changer as a cost-competitive power option to existing diesel powertrains in heavy-duty trucking, making it a great complement to reduce CO2 emissions. The launch of our universal 15-liter platform for heavy-duty ensures a full range of natural gas powertrains that are available to meet the emission reduction goals of all customers and end markets. Equally exciting is that this engine is also the basis for the recently announced hydrogen internal combustion engine currently being tested that we are developing. Cummins continues to broaden our range of power solutions to help our customers succeed and help them transition seamlessly to the cleanest and most efficient options.”

The 15-liter natural gas engine can be paired with a Cummins Eaton Automated Transmission Technologies Endurant HD Transmission and Cummins Fuel Delivery System, ensuring a purpose-built and fully integrated natural gas powertrain. Other transmission pairings will be available at launch for specialized applications. The 15-liter engine will offer ratings up to 500hp and 1,850 ft-lbs of torque and is expected to weigh 500 lbs less than comparable 15-liter diesel engines currently available on the market while not requiring Selective Catalytic Reduction (SCR) to meet 2024 California or Environmental Protection Agency emission standards.

“Cummins is committed to providing customers the right powertrain for their application,” said Brett Merritt, Vice-President, On-Highway Engine Business, Cummins. “We are bringing this to our customers who have been asking for a natural gas option for long-haul trucking and we are bringing them a very cost-effective and efficient option. This engine will not only deliver the excellent performance characteristics that customers expect from Cummins, but also a compelling total cost of ownership experience, coupled with a potential carbon-negative powertrain option when powered with renewable natural gas.”

“Initial interest in the 15-liter Natural gas powertrain has far exceeded our expectations,” said Puneet S. Jhawar, General Manager, Natural Gas, Cummins Inc. “Heavy duty customers are excited about a new pathway to lower their fleet emissions at a competitive cost with a mature, proven technology.”

When powered with renewable natural gas (RNG), using methane collected from organic waste as the primary fuel source, the system can be credited with a neutral to negative carbon index, resulting in net greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions at or below zero.

For the first time last year, the energy weighted carbon intensity (CI) value of California’s natural gas vehicle fuel portfolio in the Low Carbon Fuel Standard (LCFS) program was below zero—at -0.85 gCO2e/MJ.

Chuck B 2004 Windsor with a Cummins Diesel engine


Insurance
Gary 05 AMB DST

I've had Progressive for 11 years with the Total Loss Replacement Policy as a Texas resident (Escapees). Never had a damage claim, did use for windshield maybe once. I've had the $0 deductible for at least 5 years. By relocating our base to Ohio, I thought that comp and collision would go down since we wouldn't be in hurricane alley. They had to write me a new, 180 day usage, Ohio policy and it is higher than the Texas  full-time policy. I've always dreamt of the day that I would collect the purchase price that I paid in 05 on a 16 year old MH. There is no guarantee that the replacement policy will be carried over on renewal in Nov.  So I'm accepting the fact that Total Loss Policy is gone. Any full-time insurance recommendations out there?

Thanks,

Gary 05 AMB DST


New coach, battery setup questions
waterskier_1

I had a '97 Dynasty.  Unless major rewiring of the original factory wiring, this is how it supposed to work.  The top shelf (single) battery is for the Chassis.  The two batteries wired in parallel are for the house.

When you plug in the coach, the inverter-charger will begin charging the house batteries.  It will go through the 3-stages, Bulk, Absorption, and then Float, as necessary.  The LE-415 maintainer in the Rear Run Bay will take power from the House batteries, once they reach a certain level, and begin to charge the chassis battery.  I found the LE-415 Maintainer to be very problematic - many fail and mine failed with the light on as should be, just no output to the chassis battery.  A replacement, when one can be found is over $400.  There are many other better and cheaper devices now on the market to do the same job.

When the engine is running, the alternator output goes to the Solid State Isolator (the center terminal).  Then on one of the other terminals connects to the chassis battery, and the remaining terminal to the house battery.  When the engine is running, the alternator output is sent to both battery banks, as needed.  Both should read the same, once the batteries are charged (assuming good batteries).  That voltage should be around 14.2 Volts.  Therefore, the engine alternator always charges both set of batteries.

The auxiliary "maintainer" was likely added because the LE-415 maintainer failed.  It's likely plugged into the block heater outlet, and it's purpose is to charge/maintain the chassis battery when on shore or generator power.  This works fine unless you do a lot of dry camping and use solar to charge your house batteries.  In that case, you are not using the generator as much, if at all, and that auxiliary maintainer never gets powered up to charge the chassis battery.  In theory, if you aren't using any of the chassis devices, you shouldn't need to charge/maintain the chassis battery.  Real life experience says otherwise. 

If you plan on using a significant amount of solar while dry camping, I'd recommend either the "Echo-Charger" or "Amp-L-Charge" type device.  These are basically modern replacements of & for the LE-415 Maintainer.  They will allow for charging the chassis battery from the house batteries once the solar charges the house batteries to a certain level (around 13.5 volts) and disconnect them when the voltage drops below a certain voltage (around 12.5 volts) so as to not allow the chassis battery and circuits to discharge you house battery.

I'm attaching the 2-page wiring diagram for the chassis and house batteries.  Please let me know if you have questions.

  -Rick N.

wiring015.pdf wiring016.pdf


Insurance
waterskier_1

Total Loss Replacement is based on the replacement cost at the time of loss, not the original purchase price.  Often the will start with offering you Blue Book price, if the coach is totaled.  Then it's up to you to negotiate the real replacement cost, based on your specific coach, improvements (not routine maintenance) you made and options not included in the Blue Book basic price.  I'd be really surprised if you can purchase a $0 deductible policy now days.

  -Rick N.

 


Insurance
TigerMar

I would recommend Foremost Insurance at least for a quote..


New Cummins engine
Wrayj1

Thanks for posting the info Chuck.  Cummins seems to be heading in the right direction, however, it is highly unlikely that I will ever need to avail myself of that technology, I'm a little long in the tooth.


New Cummins engine
Chuck B

Long in the tooth?  Not me.  IMOL, The only thing that will destroy the planet earth is God Himself.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor

OPPs, IMHO


New coach, battery setup questions
RoadTripper2084
1 hour ago, waterskier_1 said:

I had a '97 Dynasty.  Unless major rewiring of the original factory wiring, this is how it supposed to work.  The top shelf (single) battery is for the Chassis.  The two batteries wired in parallel are for the house.

When you plug in the coach, the inverter-charger will begin charging the house batteries.  It will go through the 3-stages, Bulk, Absorption, and then Float, as necessary.  The LE-415 maintainer in the Rear Run Bay will take power from the House batteries, once they reach a certain level, and begin to charge the chassis battery.  I found the LE-415 Maintainer to be very problematic - many fail and mine failed with the light on as should be, just no output to the chassis battery.  A replacement, when one can be found is over $400.  There are many other better and cheaper devices now on the market to do the same job.

When the engine is running, the alternator output goes to the Solid State Isolator (the center terminal).  Then on one of the other terminals connects to the chassis battery, and the remaining terminal to the house battery.  When the engine is running, the alternator output is sent to both battery banks, as needed.  Both should read the same, once the batteries are charged (assuming good batteries).  That voltage should be around 14.2 Volts.  Therefore, the engine alternator always charges both set of batteries.

The auxiliary "maintainer" was likely added because the LE-415 maintainer failed.  It's likely plugged into the block heater outlet, and it's purpose is to charge/maintain the chassis battery when on shore or generator power.  This works fine unless you do a lot of dry camping and use solar to charge your house batteries.  In that case, you are not using the generator as much, if at all, and that auxiliary maintainer never gets powered up to charge the chassis battery.  In theory, if you aren't using any of the chassis devices, you shouldn't need to charge/maintain the chassis battery.  Real life experience says otherwise. 

If you plan on using a significant amount of solar while dry camping, I'd recommend either the "Echo-Charger" or "Amp-L-Charge" type device.  These are basically modern replacements of & for the LE-415 Maintainer.  They will allow for charging the chassis battery from the house batteries once the solar charges the house batteries to a certain level (around 13.5 volts) and disconnect them when the voltage drops below a certain voltage (around 12.5 volts) so as to not allow the chassis battery and circuits to discharge you house battery.

I'm attaching the 2-page wiring diagram for the chassis and house batteries.  Please let me know if you have questions.

  -Rick N.

wiring015.pdf 116.1 kB · 0 downloads wiring016.pdf 135.1 kB · 0 downloads

Wow - thanks for responding!  I am amazed at the complexity they built into these systems.

Based on my earlier readings it does *seem* like the stock LE-415 maintainer is working, maybe it's not 100% reliable though (labels corrected):

On 10/13/2021 at 12:12 PM, RoadTripper2084 said:

when I plug the coach in, I see the maintainer mounted on the electrical panel in the engine compartment light green, and then the voltage for BOTH sets of batteries bumps up:

Chassis House: from 12.74vdc to 14.24v

House Chassis: from 12.76v to 13.86v.

Q: Do you know if the 120v outlet in the engine bay is only powered via shore/generator and NOT by the inverter? or always powered by any of the 3?

Q: My factory solar panel doesn't seem to provide any charge. The most I've seen on the panel outside the bedroom is 0.1A, but the red "charging" led never lights. Maybe my batteries have been too charged for it start charging them (been mostly on shore power so far)?

Does the solar panel charge/maintain the House batteries, or the Chassis (or both)?

Q: When storing for longer periods (weeks/months), should the rear battery disconnect switches be a reliable way to prevent ghost drains on the batteries, or do I need to disconnect the grounds from the batteries / install a secondary battery disconnect?

Q: Do you have any experience with using LiFeP04 batteries for House batteries in this setup?  Trying to understand the simplest/cheapest setup that will tolerate being charged by the alternator, shore, generator, and solar.

Thanks again!

 


Insurance
Mark B

We went through RIS / Blue Sky - RV Insurance. They are a broker that was recommended to me. They ended up quoting us a Safeco policy. We are not full timers but this policy was cheaper than USAA and Progressive.

THERESA COGAR

Sales Manager  ||  Recreation Insurance Specialists

202 Montrose West Avenue • Suite 200 • Akron, OH 44321

T 844-747-9320 ext. 520 F 234-542-1044

RISAGENCY.COM

 


Air Bag numbers for 2007 Executive
pbustamante41
3 hours ago, Dennis H said:

My cost was about $1800 to replace all 10 air springs, about 2 months ago....Dennis

That's a great price. My quote is $300 per bag labor only.


Rv rehab.
mmccwill

Bob -- Ernie does do good work -- I know you have tile that will have to be removed -- Ernie charges $50.00 an hour to remove it --   Bill Willard


Insurance
DrDon4u

I with AARP Hardford and $660 a year for a 2009 Monaco Dyn.

Maybe you better shop around


Questions about SCS dash HVAC operation, getting more heat
ok-rver

good day working on the MH. removed lines from entrance and exit of the inline heater control valve. lost some coolant in the process and air into lines. used two hose barbs and installed 8" long 5/8" clear tubing to replace valve. started up ISC and went to fast idle of 1200 rpm. air bubbles, maybe from air in high spots of line, flowed thru the clear line with pretty good velocity, 6" of clear tube and gone in less than a ~1/4 of a second. water temp in engine up to 140 degF but only maybe 100 coming thru line. reinstalled inline heater valve with clear line at the input. flow thru tubing when dash request hot and pretty much off when on cool. 

I had planned on removing return line off heater core to blow thru with low air pressure but the line is up very high and would have to remove other stuff to get to it. The flow I saw thru the clear tube leads me to believe that the core is not blocked. Tried to find source and return of hoses on engine. looking thru the bedroom access hatch, I found two hoses running along the driver side of engine compartment, on my MH just under the hose that I think contains the dip stick that allows measuring trans fluid level from the rear of the engine compartment. Hoses got warm as engine warmed up. Just above, maybe 4", from the turbo but hose still feels ok. tough to follow hose from that access hatch but I think I found one going into a extension off the engine just under the alternator that I believe is part of the plumbing for engine water going to the radiator. going to take searching from access panel in back closet and underneath to be sure to find it.

Thinking of disconnecting the inline valve and bypassing by installing a barb fitting. will drive the MH enough to get full heat and road rpms to see if any heat. when running on the heat side of the selector switch, I saw the AC compressor kick on/off. When in the vent position on the AC side of the selector, the compressor did not come on when I looked. Only problem with the vent position is the outside air damper is open.

Ivan, I would be interested in how you hooked the damper in the closed position. Do you have issues with the evaporations coil freezing up in humid weather? Have been wondering if a small valve could be installed at the dash to route vacuum to the outside air actuator when needed to close the door. Maybe use a cable that would allow varying the amount of closure. 

Rik, part of the search at the motor is to determine were the supply water comes off with respect to the thermostat. We live in OK and go south were it can be even hotter. I guess in theory, as long as you have enough cooling capacity, it does not mater if the water is in the 180 or 190 degF range when you start doing something that will need more cooling. 

I appreciate the comments. I do not have AquaHot. Told wife about Ken's suggestion of running the electric heaters. She has given me directions to figure out how to make it work, sometimes she has too much faith in my mechanical skills. Her toes were pretty cold last week. I do have a small heater and it is a last resort option.


Powergear leveling jack controller location 2004 HR Scepter
ok-rver

Matt, thanks for giving me a direction to look. It turns out my PowerGear controller is on the firewall, just to the left of the steering column mounted up high behind a mess of wires. was able to get picture with model number that I can send to PowerGear to discuss logic. also know were to look if issues that could be a blown fuse.

Last week, I read a post and really wish I could give the guy credit. He reminded "us" in his post that there are grease zerks on the bottom of the leveling jacks. He stopped having retract issues once he greased his jacks. The zerk is ported into a very small area below the rod seal and above a wiper seal at the end of the outer housing. Too much grease injected could flow past the rod seal and end up in the ATF hydraulic fluid and would not be good. Looking at the PowerGear repair manual, there is no seal on the piston, it only has a wear ring. Fluid comes all the way down to this rod seal.

With my jacks retracted, I squirted two pulls of the lever on a small grease gun into the zerk, rotated the base plate about 40 degrees each direction several times returning to the original orientation and then inject one more squirt with a few more rotations. I have now retracted my jacks about a dozen times and have had 100% full retraction of the jacks. Before, 80% plus I was having to lift one of the jacks to get it up.

This worked for me and I have only a week or so of use after injecting the grease. Something could fail the next time I use the jacks. The standard warning only do this if you think it is the right thing to do. My rear jacks have internal springs. I was very careful to get them back to the original orientation so that the internal spring did not unscrew from the end fittings.

Hope this helps


Double the heat from Aquahot Zones
granvillebarker

We are in Bryce Canyon for a few days, and it's mighty chilly here right now and especially at night.  (teens).   I pulled the cover off the front AH zone, just to make sure the fans were running, and immediately noticed how much more warm air was coming out.   The sofa zone was easy to uncover as well, and same thing.   My bedroom and kitchen zones don't have easily removable covers, but they will soon get enlarged significantly or re-attached with magnets so they are removable as well.   

--

Granville Barker

05 Dynasty Countess

IMG_2142.jpg

IMG_2141.jpg


Double the heat from Aquahot Zones
96 EVO

So, your getting more air flowing thru the heat exchanger, but a lot of that air, has already been thru the heat exchanger.

My front exchanger ( your second pic), has a decent size return air intake vent on the side of that cabinet, right beside the throttle pedal.


Flexsteel Seat Covers Finally
Gary M
10 hours ago, azlein said:

Could you post some pictures?

I will after the install.

The person doing the covers worked for Flexsteel. She bought all the patterns from them.


TDS fuel card
Gary M
7 hours ago, Twomed said:

IT WORKS...but only IF you follow directions.

Download their (TSD)  app  TSD Open Roads app...at bottom of screen click MORE...under INFORMATION...read VIEW INSTRUCTIONS.

When you familiarize yoursel with how it works you will be successful.  ALSO note that not all Petro/TA will be a discount station. 

Example:  Oak Grove , MO  just east of Kansas City... same exit there is a Petro on south side of I70 NO DISCOUNT...a TA on the north side same exit that DOES DISCOUNT. 🤑

ALWAYS check the TSD APP  before you fuel or you may not be at a contracted for discount location.  You will also note under the INSTRUCTIONS that Pilot/FJ is no longer listed for any discount at all.

As an early user of TSD things have evolved for the better...proper use always up to the user.  Yeah EFS has route plan which was may be a plus but in the end ONLY the Open Roads TSD app will have the correct info to get your discount.

Safe travels... 

 

Again I understand what u are saying, but to be able to compare TSD discount prices and other fuel stops in same area that you plan to fuel, you need another brand App to compare prices. My mistake was assuming the TSD fuel stops would be close to other fuel stops in the area instead they have been steadily $0.20 - $0.35 higher than truck stops close by.

So next trip we will need other fuel apps to compare before we fuel.


Insurance
woodylmiller

I have safeco.  Not a full time policy.  It's an agreed amount policy @ $200k for total loss.  Just went up to about $1600 per year after a $400 dollar increase with no claims.  Liability limits at $300k with a $2 million umbrella.  Had one glass claim that ended up costing them $4,000 for the driver side fixed window replacement, or Safelite paid after a faulty workmanship claim when the first window almost fell out.

DrDon4u, if you wouldn't mind sharing your coverage details, I'd like see if I'm paying too much.  I think I have a $1,000 deductible, and $300k liability plus the umbrella.  But as stated, it's an agreed upon value policy which I'm sure adds to the premium.  

Woody Miller

09 Dynasty


Repair or Replace Refrigerator
woodylmiller

I have the original Frigidaire res. refer.  Has the cherry wood door panels to match the cabinets.  As far as I know they don't make anything like that now.  To say the DW loves the cherry wood drawers is an understatement.  Therefore, I will be looking to "rebuild" the guts of this thing at some point.  Seems like it will be the compressor or controls that will fail.  Anyone ever have a res refer rebuilt?  Can get to the backside of the refer with no problem to change the compressor.  My first cab-over camper had the Nevercold, and the travel trailer had one, too small and they never worked well.  Love the Frigidaire.

Woody Miller

09 Dynasty 


Salesman Switch Solenoid
Bob Wightman

I have a 2004 Monaco Knight that i have replaced the salesman switch solenoid several times, and just did it again recently just to have it fail again.  I'm using original part number and every time i replace it everything works good for a few months then it blows the fuse again.  I like having this feature as i don't have the opportunity to use the coach as much as i would like and i can just turn everything on as i come in the way i left it last.  All my electrical connecting to the solenoid is good, I have replace the actual switch itself and still cant seem to make it reliable.  Has anybody else experienced this problem and found a solution for it?  I'm considering just replacing it with a battery on/off manual switch and be done with it but wanted to run it past the group for advice first.  Thanks in advance! 


Side view cameras
woodylmiller

Closure with the Tadi Brothers.  Finally all said and done with them.  It took quite a while, months.  Disputed credit card charges, waiting and waiting to return the 4 cameras.  24/7 customer service?????  Good luck.  My mind is playing tricks on me right  now, I can't remember the name of the company I finally bought the side view cameras from, I think "Rear View Safety" or something like that.  Great company, would buy from them again.  Just a heads up on Tadi Brothers.

Woody Miller


New coach, battery setup questions
waterskier_1

My block heater WAS powered by the inverter.  I was amazed, but it was and the wiring diagrams show that.

I didn't have factory solar, but it wasn't much more than a trickle charge. 

I think (I'll check tomorrow) that there was outputs for both.  

The ghost (phantom) draw will continue because some of these loads may connected directly to the battery (smoke, CO, propane detectors, radio memory, etc.)  I added solar to my Dynasty, and I didn't have to worry about my batteries discharging.  I had left the coach unplugged for months after I bought my current Exec waiting for a buyer.  

I just finished building my first LiaFePO4 battery.  I live in Colorado and have been discouraged about the low temp limits so was a bit late getting on the bandwagon.  It took my Lifeline AGM batteries to fail to motivate me.   My first thoughts are the prices are coming down, and there are a lot of poor designs out there. The huge benefits are weight savings and fast recharge.  If you are not planning on dry camping, and plan on using solar to recharge, I'm not convinced, unless you build you build your own, that Lithium is worth the added expense, right now.  That may change as soon as next year. 

Even before I went to LiFePO4 batteries, I separated my Chassis system & my House system as far as charging.  As I said, I have solar (1400 watts).  The original Monaco supplied panel is now dedicated to just the Chassis battery.  The remaining are all dedicated to the house batteries.  When the engine is running, the alternator charge only the Chassis batteries.  When on Shore or generator power my inverter charger charges only the house batteries.  I did leave the option to manually, temporarily, connect the two sets of batteries together with the dash boost switch.  This alloys me to custom tailor each charging source to the type of battery they are charging.  

I have helped many design systems where owners don't have enough solar to keep the residential refrigerator and other things running without the alternator while driving down the highway.  If charging from the alternator while underway is required, I recommend only a DC-DC Charger converter.  

Let me know if you have questions. 

  - Rick N.


New Cummins engine
JDCrow

In town we just got our first non-fossil based diesel pump. Made from “renewable” based materials. Most in town are not ready to put it in their trucks yet. 


Double the heat from Aquahot Zones
Jdw12345

It might be beneficial to vacuum the backs of the heat exchanger with a soft bristles attachment for more air flow also.

 

jmo


Salesman Switch Solenoid
Trinidaddave
25 minutes ago, Bob Wightman said:

I have a 2004 Monaco Knight that i have replaced the salesman switch solenoid several times, and just did it again recently just to have it fail again.  I'm using original part number and every time i replace it everything works good for a few months then it blows the fuse again.  I like having this feature as i don't have the opportunity to use the coach as much as i would like and i can just turn everything on as i come in the way i left it last.  All my electrical connecting to the solenoid is good, I have replace the actual switch itself and still cant seem to make it reliable.  Has anybody else experienced this problem and found a solution for it?  I'm considering just replacing it with a battery on/off manual switch and be done with it but wanted to run it past the group for advice first.  Thanks in advance! 

Bob, my guess without looking at your diagrams you already have a battery cut off switch for chassis and house batteries.  Mine are located in the rear compartment curbside.  On my 05 Safari Gazelle I use this to disconnect both battery banks when I’m not expecting to use the coach much.  I may have a 04 Knight diagram, I can look at it. 
the downside is you have to access the rear compartment each time.  It’s not as convenient as the salesman switch.


Insurance
DrDon4u
Quote

Im sorry I don't have the detailes with me, but you can call AARP HARTHARD at 844-769 2964 and get a free quote. Everyone is different. Roadside Assistance is included for free. 

 


Air leak
Frank McElroy

Correct, it is strong enough to lift the rear of the coach but the comment was made specifically about towing by lifting the rear.  At least my owners manual is very specific not to tow in this configuration.


Creating the Toad
Rikadoo

Ouch! Did the nut come off or did it snap!!! Looks broke!how many miles on the rig? If it broke best replace the other side too, what size tires are on the Raptor?


Creating the Toad
JDCrow
1 minute ago, Rikadoo said:

Ouch! Did the nut come off or did it snap!!! Looks broke!how many miles on the rig? If it broke best replace the other side too, what size tires are on the Raptor?

Nut backed off. I just had a level kit put on the front and I believe the nylock was reused and should not have been. Only 30k on the truck. The tires are stock 315’s. So about a 35/12.50/17. I have a new set sitting at work when we get home. 
 

The company I got the kit from has billet upper control arms with new ball joints in them. Saving Pennys now.

Wasted a day getting it towed 60 miles the wrong direction, thankfully the tow truck driver suggested this shop. The AAA was sending me to a shop that when I called was 2 weeks out. 


What power to use for Residential Refrigerator?
dl_racing427
On 10/13/2021 at 12:27 PM, cbr046 said:

Depending how long your trips are you could just use shore power and let the fridge coast while on the road.  This means no boondocking. 

Just being creative . . . . but why not wire a 3-way switch (like for household lights) with inverter hot on one leg, shore hot on the other leg, and common going to the refrigerator hot.  It's still a manual change but switching over would be instant.

- bob

That's a good idea on an older coach, where the inverter is a basic model without an internal transfer relay.  eg: my 1993 Dynasty.
I'll likely use this method if I ever replace my Norcold again. (I put in a new Norcold after I bought the coach, so mine is after the majority of the fire prone ones.
My main issue is my coach only has battery space for two GC2 batteries, so not much reserve capacity.
I don't boondock much, other than an overnight stop on the road, so it's not a big deal right now, but the fridge running on inverter would probably require more battery capacity.

 

 


Creating the Toad
Rikadoo

I am ALWAYS nervious with other people working on my stuff… Guess thats what 50 years of working on vehicles get me… its definitly a double edge sword😒 

Red locktight is your friend😳😎


Creating the Toad
JDCrow
1 minute ago, Rikadoo said:

I am ALWAYS nervious with other people working on my stuff… Guess thats what 50 years of working on vehicles get me… its definitly a double edge sword😒 

Red locktight is your friend😳😎

Yeah I do a lot of my own stuff, traded for this work. I won’t use him again. Look at the lift spacers, he beat the crap out of them and they cannot be adjusted as the holes are beat. I’ll have to order new ones and take them to another shop. I don’t have heavy duty spring compression set up to get it apart and back together 

624E843D-B884-49CC-B383-5D448B4E4B00.jpeg


Monaco Technical Tips - Updated File
Frank McElroy

I've seen this happen before when some virus scan software programs will flag the file and others will not.  I Don't quite know why.  It could be the virus security setting being too high.

However, it also might be because this Acrobat reader file uses internal redirect links that allows you to click on a topic in the index that brings you to the specific technical tip.  If you save the downloaded file and scan it before opening it, as Bill said, the file comes up clean.


Snip the Tip Thermistor Replacement
Bob Jones

Is anyone familiar with the Articca Snip the Tip thermistor replacement for fridges?

I have a Norcold 1200 LRIM that I have nearly perfect. Setting #1 is too warm by about 1c and setting #2 is too cold by about the same. Either way, in order to get it perfect I need to either move the existing thermistor around looking for the golden triangle or use something easier, like a dial that is on the Articca unit. 

Does anyone know if the Articca unit is actually an adjustable thermistor? Ie, it has both a thermistor to trigger the fridge to cycle based on internal temperatures and then that is offset adjustable so you can skew the ohms as desired for warmer/colder temps?

I did send them an email but have yet to hear back.


Creating the Toad
Rikadoo

Is that a GASH on the inside of your tire???

so i was looking at Hatch weather 2night… your going to be using some propane tonight🙀you got any power where your connected? I have a stand up heater i keep in the rig for nights like that. Dont forget your heater in the water closet


Questions about SCS dash HVAC operation, getting more heat
Rikadoo

So “ok” i keep a stand up 110volt heater in my bedroom so no matter what i keep the bedroom temps even when im plugged into  a CG at night. Otherwise i run the propane heater which has its Highs An lows thru out the night. The highs were A LOT WORSE till i found the sensor wires were tucked up in the cabnit rather than in tbe air sencing port. I had removed the little white vent port off the cabnit an found the sencing tip run up in the cabnit where they struggled to sence ambient air temps. Once i relocated the tips, it was alot better for it to know the room temp.6284768B-CA06-4D1B-9236-4770F65F2E55.thumb.jpeg.96922a5b2b3fd5866f6e2bc7ec3dcac6.jpeg0E6C415A-AB4B-4CA1-9E96-B3658711285E.thumb.jpeg.37394198233e13eab072953e65941960.jpeg


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