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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/579-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Filtering Dust in an RV ?
Dr4Film
Idling a Cummins engine
Pduggs
Salesman Switch Solenoid
Dave Pumphrey
Salesman Switch Solenoid
Dr4Film
Idling a Cummins engine
BobSchmeck
Idling a Cummins engine
BobSchmeck
2000 signature power shut off
Grampy OG
IOTA have listened
Newcsn
ABS light came on
Grampy OG
Idling a Cummins engine
willbo777
Idling a Cummins engine
Ivylog
IOTA have listened
tmw188
IOTA have listened
Dr4Film
Idling a Cummins engine
saflyer
Dash A/C and step relationship
saflyer
IOTA have listened
tmw188
IOTA have listened
lake49068
Idling a Cummins engine
96 EVO
Speedometer
Mr Keith
IOTA have listened
jacwjames
IOTA have listened
lake49068
IOTA have listened
jacwjames
Wet bay heater question
jacwjames
IOTA have listened
Byron J
Filtering Dust in an RV ?
Bob Jones
IOTA have listened
Dr4Film
IOTA have listened
jacwjames
Solenoid for the ignition switch
mrbill1951
Solenoid for the ignition switch
cpat_39
Solenoid for the ignition switch
mrbill1951
Dash A/C and step relationship
saflyer
Wet bay heater question
Jim McGarvie
Adjusting the park airbrake
Mike in Va
Low Fuel? Really???
cbr046

New Posts

Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Dr4Film

JD,

I just completed a trip home from New Hampshire of nearly 1500 miles and the only driving problem was gusty winds at times. It knocks the coach sideways and of course I can feel it in the steering wheel immediately so I correct for it before it moves me into the adjacent lane.

A Steer Safe or TruCenter are no help with gusty winds. I don't have the Watts Link so not sure if that would minimize the affect of gusty winds or not. However you do so I guess the Watts link cannot mitigate that condition completely.

Frankly, my opinion is if that area of the country is experiencing massive gusty winds then it's time to get off the road until the winds subside. I was only affected a couple of times on I-26 East heading to I-95.


Filtering Dust in an RV ?
Dr4Film

Those Winx 535 units look awful large in size. Plus it states that one would easily clean up 435 sq/ft in 15 minutes.

Glad that you found something that is working out for you and you can now enjoy your clean air healthy coach.


Idling a Cummins engine
Pduggs

I had a neighbor who every spring would start his snowblower and run it between our houses until it ran out of gas. A noisy two stroke Toro, that some years seemed to run a very long time. Now that’s rude, but he was a very nice guy. 
 

We left a park near Ventura CA last winter in the early morning. I started and failed to wait for the coach to air up, as I didn’t want to irritate my neighbors. I scraped the bottom of the front cap while exiting up a slight incline. I won’t do that again. 


Salesman Switch Solenoid
Dave Pumphrey
On 10/16/2021 at 1:22 PM, StephenW said:

Blue Sea systems makes a 12v magnetic latching solenoid.

https://www.bluesea.com

I looked at the Blue sea site via your link, but did not see latching solenoids?


Salesman Switch Solenoid
Dr4Film
9 minutes ago, Dave Pumphrey said:

I looked at the Blue sea site via your link, but did not see latching solenoids?

https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/20/95/Solenoids/ML-Solenoids


Idling a Cummins engine
BobSchmeck
34 minutes ago, Pduggs said:

I had a neighbor who every spring would start his snowblower and run it between our houses until it ran out of gas. A noisy two stroke Toro, that some years seemed to run a very long time. Now that’s rude, but he was a very nice guy. 
 

We left a park near Ventura CA last winter in the early morning. I started and failed to wait for the coach to air up, as I didn’t want to irritate my neighbors. I scraped the bottom of the front cap while exiting up a slight incline. I won’t do that again. 

Wow,  in my coach you aren't going anywhere till it is aired up. My breaks won't release until I  have 80lb's or better.  


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow

Thanks! It’s any wind really. Just a constant correction with the wheel. Never feel secure or glued to the road


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Dr4Film

JD,

I thought the Watts Link was supposed to fix that? I only have problems with gusty winds.


Idling a Cummins engine
BobSchmeck

Apologies if I  offended anyone with my comments about truck drivers.  My dad was a a truck driver with well over 5 million miles under his belt.  I  was raised with the concept of,

Do unto others as you would have them do unto you.

If I pulled my rig next to a traveler an run my engine all night for my comfort,  even today at 89yrs old that old man would beat my ass. 

Today I won't run my generator all night unless I'm close to 150ft away from others. 

 


2000 signature power shut off
Grampy OG
On 10/15/2021 at 12:15 PM, Steve P said:

Sounds like the house batteries have had only an hour to charge, is that right?  I would measure the voltage.  Then put them on a battery tender with the house disconnect turned off for at least 24 hours and measure the voltage again.  (I did the same thing last winter to my chassis batteries and fortunately they had enough voltage not to freeze.  They recharged on a battery tender in a few days, and all is well. I did not charge them separately. )

I vote with Steve. Realistically you cannot even charge one 6volt deep cycle in 1 hour. All may not be lost. I could be wrong but it is my understanding that AGM batteries can survive a deep discharge much better than a lead acid and still have the ability to come back. 

Ken


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
David White

Just my opinion, but I felt the rear bars actually did the most for mine, especially with movement of the coach tail.  Nothing will totally eliminate the wind issue, but that’s the last thing I did (after I removed my tru-center from steering), and the bars helped the most.


IOTA have listened
Newcsn

Because of all the issues with the IOTA, doI assume correctly that there was a year that the IOTAs were no longer installed in our rigs? What year was that - and - what did they transition to from the IOTA?


ABS light came on
Grampy OG
On 10/15/2021 at 11:00 AM, willbo777 said:

It sounds like you are not moving the coach, is that right?  The ABS normally resets when you start to move.  Also, just my opinion starting the coach for a few minutes, like 20 every week does nothing good.  It is always better to drive the coach and let it get up to operating temp every few months.

I am in 100% agreement. Warming the engine for 20 minutes does nothing particularly cumulative towards PM. Exercise that puppy! I have a couple of MH friends that believe that a 20 minute idle actually recharges their batteries. It doesn't. During a 3 month stay this past summer I tried to unhook and give the old dog a 50-60 mile spin or so up on the freeway. 


Idling a Cummins engine
willbo777

We are very lucky as it is nothing that I did, it came that way.  On our coach the slides will come in with the engine running, but won't go out.  I think it is exactly how it should be.  We idle long enough to get the coach on the air, pull in the slides and move quickly after that.  Sometimes it takes 5 minutes and sometimes a little longer.


Idling a Cummins engine
Ivylog
4 minutes ago, willbo777 said:

On our coach the slides will come in with the engine running, but won't go out.

One of the few advantages of the house multiplex system.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
53 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

JD,

I thought the Watts Link was supposed to fix that? I only have problems with gusty winds.

I have front watts, not rear 

42 minutes ago, David White said:

Just my opinion, but I felt the rear bars actually did the most for mine, especially with movement of the coach tail.  Nothing will totally eliminate the wind issue, but that’s the last thing I did (after I removed my tru-center from steering), and the bars helped the most.

Thanks! You have rear watts? Talk to me about removing the true steer. What prompted you to remove it? I really feeling I’m fighting this safety steer


IOTA have listened
tmw188

I completed my install of the Surge Guard 41260 TS yesterday. I used the ferrules and crimping tool that was mentioned from Grampy OG and was very pleased with the all wire connections because of using this method. The tool could of been another two inches longer for for more leverage however. Hard area to work in on my 02 Windsor. Removed the tray slide to gain much better access, that’s a must. Installed a receptacle on the shore power inlet to plug my Hughes AF into. I have that worry off my plate now. My old IOTA looked absolutely fine but I will say this, it has been only a couple of months since I inspected it and checked all the wires connections and they didn’t seem as tight as I left them. I need to secure my AF and tidy up some cabling. 

D495129B-2A8F-41F3-9016-371938397103.jpeg

 

4E2079B0-0BD7-4031-80B1-EB3A4B0848D8.jpeg

0F510648-86F0-4A31-AF04-3B7C19DBC6FD.jpeg

 

 

 

602D3E54-7A23-434C-A06F-F36602435036.jpeg

 


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Ivylog

I disconnected the S-T-+ until I could make it adjustable on the fly. Made driving in crosswinds tiring having to hold the steering wheel off center against it. One reason I’ll always own a S-10 chassis is the rock solid handling that makes 12+ hour days a pleasure.

A steering stabilizer seems to help the most on shorter rigs because it makes it harder to oversteer it but that’s not going to help with gusty wins where the sooner you react, the less you have to.

New tires on the rear can make for squirrley handling until they get broken end… I didn’t believe this until it happened to my 98 Beaver, especially if they are overinflated for the weight.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
David White
21 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

I have front watts, not rear 

Thanks! You have rear watts? Talk to me about removing the true steer. What prompted you to remove it? I really feeling I’m fighting this safety steer

JD, the removal was actually prompted by conversations with a long time contributor/Monacoer, Bob Nodine, who determined the benefit of removal.

Bob actually was in on the original development of the front Watts idea. I always felt it made steering harder and did nothing for the driving comfort, plus I kept having issues with my unit.  It likely would help in a front tire failure.

Bob has recently purchased a Class C, but might still monitor the site and could add some insight.


IOTA have listened
Dr4Film

I can't believe that a 2002 Windsor and a 2003 Exec would have had IOTA Transfer Switches installed. My 2002 Windsor and JimJ's 2002 Windsor plus anther member who has sold his 2002 Windsor all had the ESCO Lyght Transfer Switch.

Just shows to go you that Monaco didn't care where they installed what and when.


Idling a Cummins engine
saflyer
On 10/16/2021 at 8:25 AM, Chuck B said:

Cummins does not recommend running their engines while not driving for a long period of time because the engine plus the associated transmission does not reach operating temperatures.  Should I mention that while running your diesel in a campground can be irritating to your neighbors.  Why do you not go for a 25 one way drive?  Chuck B 2004 Windsor

This seems like a reply to a post. What question started this topic? I’m not following.

Ed


2002 Signature side window shade motor replacement?
GranPrix

I have a 2004 Signature.  I sent a shade to The Right Track, Crofton, MD.  Look them up and give them a call, they may be able to help.   Great Service too!  They were the original manufacturer of my shade. 


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
1 hour ago, David White said:

JD, the removal was actually prompted by conversations with a long time contributor/Monacoer, Bob Nodine, who determined the benefit of removal.

Bob actually was in on the original development of the front Watts idea. I always felt it made steering harder and did nothing for the driving comfort, plus I kept having issues with my unit.  It likely would help in a front tire failure.

Bob has recently purchased a Class C, but might still monitor the site and could add some insight.

You have front Watts? I need to see if mine is installed correctly. Does the center cam need to be straight up and down? 


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Cubflyer

JD,

I have what sounds like the same setup on my RR8R chassis, with the exception of the  steering stabilizer and 'fancy' tight steering box and 'fancy' Bilstein shocks.  My steering box is an original, non adjustable and somewhat sloppy, I have no problem with that as my driving preference is to have a coach that drives straight without me having to drive it straight.

That said, I could not stand the effort required to drive my 40' monster before I installed the front Watts link and the rear cross bars.  They made it drive without changing lanes with every dip or bump in the road.  I have standard Monroe gas shocks and new tires inflated to the recommended pressure based on axle weight (weighted on CAT scales). 

One item I have that you don't is a Source Engineering Front sway bar, and I think the combination of that and the watts link is why I have very little 'push' from passing trucks. We drove across NE and WY twice last summer encountering wind warning signs of >40mph and except for having to hold some 'crab' and adjust for the gusts it was quite drivable.  Having a tire go off the edge of the pavement is no longer a 'heart attack' moment.

I recommendation to you:  ditch the steering stabilizer, add the front sway bar (mine required some modification to get the links to connect perpendicular to the chassis), adjust TP (I run my tires at about 95psi cold all around) and drive that. 

You might be happy with that, I'm considering adding the rear watts link or the rear sway bar or both because I still feel that the rear is still a bit 'loose' and the coach would ride like it was on 'rails' with the back tightened up.

 

23 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

You have front Watts? I need to see if mine is installed correctly. Does the center cam need to be straight up and down? 

No, the link, when coach a normal ride height should be at an angle, I think my link had marks on the bracket to line the link up with.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
8 minutes ago, Cubflyer said:

JD,

I have what sounds like the same setup on my RR8R chassis, with the exception of the  steering stabilizer and 'fancy' tight steering box and 'fancy' Bilstein shocks.  My steering box is an original, non adjustable and somewhat sloppy, I have no problem with that as my driving preference is to have a coach that drives straight without me having to drive it straight.

That said, I could not stand the effort required to drive my 40' monster before I installed the front Watts link and the rear cross bars.  They made it drive without changing lanes with every dip or bump in the road.  I have standard Monroe gas shocks and new tires inflated to the recommended pressure based on axle weight (weighted on CAT scales). 

One item I have that you don't is a Source Engineering Front sway bar, and I think the combination of that and the watts link is why I have very little 'push' from passing trucks. We drove across NE and WY twice last summer encountering wind warning signs of >40mph and except for having to hold some 'crab' and adjust for the gusts it was quite drivable.  Having a tire go off the edge of the pavement is no longer a 'heart attack' moment.

I recommendation to you:  ditch the steering stabilizer, add the front sway bar (mine required some modification to get the links to connect perpendicular to the chassis), adjust TP (I run my tires at about 95psi cold all around) and drive that. 

You might be happy with that, I'm considering adding the rear watts link or the rear sway bar or both because I still feel that the rear is still a bit 'loose' and the coach would ride like it was on 'rails' with the back tightened up.

 

No, the link, when coach a normal ride height should be at an angle, I think my link had marks on the bracket to line the link up with.

Great news, can you purchase just the front sway bar? If I remember correctly they (source) want to sell the whole kit, which I don’t need 


Dash A/C and step relationship
saflyer

There is a 7.5a fuse in the forward run bay labeled Step/ISO Sense. It burns out. I found it because there are two things I have problems with that are both related to this fuse. It apparently has something to do with the ignition switch. It turns out the dash A/C was blowing through the windshield vents regardless of what position the A/C selector was in. At about the same time the entry steps stopped retracting when the door was shut with the ignition switch in the on position. Thanks to one of you who sent a wiring diagram the dash A/C, entry step and ignition have some common wiring. 

I don’t know where the problem is. I don’t think it’s the step motor even though the fuse blows if I close the door with the ignition switch on without any movement of the step motor. But the steps retract properly when their switch is in storage mode and the door is closed regardless of ignition switch position. I thought the dash A/C wasn’t causing the problem because using it didn’t seem to blow the fuse. A good fuse allowed the A/C doors to move to the proper position based on A/C mode selected. (It turns out they default to windshield defrost position with no power.) But that idea didn’t hold up as yesterday I operated the A/C only and when I switched modes the fuse blew.

So that leaves the ignition switch or wiring itself, am I right? This is probably beyond my capabilities but maybe someone has an idea for an easy thing to check.

Thanks,         
Ed             
‘05 HR Ambassador


IOTA have listened
tmw188

This photo from above is obviously to most that it is the 50a receptacle. I only posted that to show that the square ferrules work great even in that. The male plug was a different story, by its design I decided not to use them but just used the bare stranded wire. I plan on putting a strap around the plugs to keep them in place and will check them periodically. 

E8B03B73-35C6-47AD-8717-ED2A3D1DC8FE.jpeg


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Cubflyer

JD

When I bought the front bar kit, the rear was not available.... I was trying to buy both..... now I'm just not sure if the rear watts or the rear sway bar is the most 'bang for my buck'... as the cross bars my be enough to hold the rear "H" frame in alinement (which is what the watts link does), and I just need a sway bar to hold the body from rolling around.... or is the "H" frame still a bit unstable, and the sway bar will not really help....   


IOTA have listened
lake49068

Have been following this thread for a while and time to butt in!  The IOTA was installed in my 2010 Neptune and changed out by Navistar as a result of the recall at the Chapter 419 MS with the Southwire unit.  The Southwire unit "went south" in 2018 and I replaced it with a Progressive Dynamics 5200 Series PD52.  It does not hum and has worked without issue for the past 3 years...I do an annual check of the lugs.  The PD unit is a smaller than the Southwire and does not have the "whistles and bells" but didn't need them since I also have the Progressive Industries "hard wired" surge unit.  So another transfer switch option...and would be interested to read any comments regarding the PD unit.  They are a local company (Marshall, MI) and have a long history of supplying the RV industry with well engineered electronics.

Adam


Idling a Cummins engine
96 EVO
2 hours ago, willbo777 said:

We are very lucky as it is nothing that I did, it came that way.  On our coach the slides will come in with the engine running, but won't go out.  I think it is exactly how it should be.  We idle long enough to get the coach on the air, pull in the slides and move quickly after that.  Sometimes it takes 5 minutes and sometimes a little longer.

I agree, that is the way it should be.

Unfortunately, mine don't move either direction with the ignition on, therefore, a second start.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
David White
8 hours ago, JDCrow said:

You have front Watts? I need to see if mine is installed correctly. Does the center cam need to be straight up and down? 

JD, I don’t have my coach here to check, but my inclination is to say “yes” to the cam question. And, “no” I don’t have the rear Watts, only the rear x-bars.  I don’t think the rear Watts would do much for your problem.

I would suggest making a call direct to MonacoWatts and talk to Mike Hughes (he’s located in Lancaster CA) to get the correct answer:  monacowatts.com  

 


Speedometer
Mr Keith

I have a 1986 governess that my speedometer quit working and I am wondering where are the sensor is. Any help would be appreciated thanks 


IOTA have listened
jacwjames
1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

I can't believe that a 2002 Windsor and a 2003 Exec would have had IOTA Transfer Switches installed. My 2002 Windsor and JimJ's 2002 Windsor plus anther member who has sold his 2002 Windsor all had the ESCO Lyght Transfer Switch.

Just shows to go you that Monaco didn't care where they installed what and when.

The parts page shows that they made a change in 9/30/2001 (although I believe they have the numbers wrong). 

It's obvious that Monaco was not consistent in how they build the coaches.  A lot of the parts pages I have show different parts with the date they transitioned.  Might have been a supply chain issue or price issue.  Who knows.

1 Power Transfer Switch.pdf


IOTA have listened
lake49068

Don't forget Monaco went into bankruptcy and Navistar assembled coaches beginning in 2008/2009 from the left over inventory.  There are some interesting stories about coaches being delivered with 3 AC units vs 2 in the sales specs, etc.  Usually the changes were positive.  My coach was assembled in June 2009 and had rear brake chambers with 2005 date codes so you never know what may be in that build generation.


IOTA have listened
jacwjames

We toured the factory in Aug 2009, they only had a small crew working on coaches.  Still an interesting tour and there was a salesman there pushing to sell coaches to anyone interested.  They let us walk through some coaches right after they got off the line and as they were cleaning them up and fixing defects (and there were plenty)!

 

That was the first time I saw a slide in slide, can't remember which model coach it was but it was a four slides and the front drivers side slide had a slide in a slide. 


Wet bay heater question
jacwjames

So wife got back from her dog show and got a chance to check the wiring for tank heaters. 

Turned the system switch on and tested voltage across the circuit breaker to the relay.  That was all good but no power through relay, the blue wire that is for the system heat was not triggering the relay.

So I jumped the snap disc and that closed the relay and sent power to the wires for the heat pads.  So mine is wired differently then the schematic that Richard posted.  On mine the heat pads will only come on when the snap disc closes.  Not sure if that is good or bad.  I could look at rewiring so the tank heaters will come on with the system heat switch.  I'll have to think about that.  Most of the tank pad heaters I've seen have internal temp sensors and will only come on when it is cold enough to it may be a mute point.  

It does not show any fuses to protect the pads like one Richard posted, which I will add. 

Here is a screen shot of the wiring for my coach, hit CTRL5 if it is blurry

2002 Windsor wiring wet bay heater.pdf


IOTA have listened
Byron J
4 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

I can't believe that a 2002 Windsor and a 2003 Exec would have had IOTA Transfer Switches installed. My 2002 Windsor and JimJ's 2002 Windsor plus anther member who has sold his 2002 Windsor all had the ESCO Lyght Transfer Switch.

Just shows to go you that Monaco didn't care where they installed what and when.

Richard, mine had an IOTA from factory.  Switched it out about a year ago.  Couldn't see anything wrong with the IOTA but switched it out to the ESCO Lyght TS along with adding a Progressive Industries HW50C.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
vanwill52

JD, if you already have rear X-bars, adding a Watts link in the rear will make very little difference.  I developed the whole X-Bar / Watts link system.  Bob Nodine was my first "Guinea Pig" coach.  My coach was among the last to be equipped with my devices, since I thought my coach did not wander badly enough to be a good test platform.  After installing many of the X-bar / Front Watts links, I finally added them to my own coach.  It made a huge difference, even though I had thought previously that it did not wander much.

Adding the front Watts link makes a large difference.  NO, the Watts lever need not be perfectly vertical.  It performs just as well with the Watts lever +/- even 20 degrees.

The anti-sway bar may have some benefits, but stopping wandering is not one of them.  Bob Nodine can confirm that.  He installed them front and rear to cure his wandering.  It had little to no effect.

Bob Nodine and I both removed our S-T-+ hydraulic stabilizer.  I'm not knocking it.  Both of us felt it just added to much effort to steering.  And NO device like that, adjustable or not, will mitigate GUSTING winds...and how often are winds consistent in speed and direction?

I think you have done most of the things to improve your coach's handling.  Are you still dissatisfied?


Filtering Dust in an RV ?
Bob Jones

Richard, you raise a good point, which is maximizing space and keeping stuff off the floor if possible. Living in an RV, that's key. This is why I originally wanted desktop units but when I saw them their size was too large, IMHO. Then there is filter size, smaller the unit, smaller the filter. So I bought one large one and tried it out. Next day, I bought the other for the bedroom. 

Yes, one will do the job but.....if it's in the front, is it really pulling all the air/dust from the rear as well? They were on sale so...

I had dead space in the front for one of them and in the bedroom there are drawers I never really go into. So I sacrificed in the bedroom, so to speak. But...the units weigh nothing (5 pounds or so?) so if I have to move the one in the bedroom to get into a drawer, it's no problem. Lift and place and then put it back. 

I put the kill-o-watt on them and wow. Just WOW. On auto setting they use 5 watts (!!!!) That is low fan setting. On Turbo mode they use 52 watts that is MAX setting (!!!) 

5 watts x 24 hours x 30 days = 3,600 watts / 1,000 = 3.6 kW x .13 (price of electric) = .47 cents per month each (unless my math is wrong, which is ALWAYS possible). 

52 watts x 24 hours x 30 days = 37,440 watts / 1,000 = 37.44 kW x .13 (price of electric) = $4.87 per month on turbo each

But here's the thing, operationally, you run them on turbo for half a day when you're away to exchange as much air as possible and get rid of as much dust as possible. After that, they just run in auto mode. So... .47c per month each unit. But, it's actually much less. They have a sensor that determines if it's night time and then go to an even lower fan speed using even less electricity than the 5 watts. So you can easily sleep with one right next to your bed as pictured. 

They are very interesting. If you have eaten beans for dinner a red light will go on periodically as they have a sensor for air quality. Then they raise the fan speed accordingly until the air has been purified and then go back to the low fan setting. Up here in the winter there are periods of time where you sleep with the bedroom sliding door closed. That means you're in a very small space and keeping that air clean is important. 

The size of the units mean you get a large HEPA filter which means they are supposed to last a year. The Costco units come with enough extra filters for two years in the box! Quite a few people get more than a year out of the filters and I can see that happening. 

I've only had them a short time but there is a significant reduction in dust. My gut tells me that eventually they will get 'caught up' with the existing dust in the unit. At that point they should keep the unit as dust-free as it can be. I plan to put them both on Turbo when leaving for the day so that they stir up and capture as much dust as they can.  Pollen, at certain times up here can be very bad. The road can literally be coated in it and you can watch it get blown around in the wind. These things do filter that. I think they filter 99.98% of everything. Basically, if it's 3 microns or larger I think the HEPA filter will catch it. 

I'm NOT normally sensitive to things like air quality or what have you. I just motor on without a thought. But when I saw the amount of dust flying around on a sunny day I started thinking about it and I realized I always feel better outside the unit. The air always feels fresher. So, take it for whatever it's worth. I do know that for people that are sensitive to these things (allergy sufferers etc) they have a lot of good reports. I also think the better you seal your unit, the worse the air quality will be and I've done a lot on that front. 

Last night I made hot wings. Normally that means the unit gets a real stink in it that takes about a week to go away unless you have the vent/fan open on the roof. I was very surprised to wake up this morning and not smell them at all. You'd never know I made them last night. That heavy oil cooking smell is not present. 

To give you a better idea as to sizing, here's a pic of both of them in use. 

20211018_113954.jpg

20211018_114012.jpg


IOTA have listened
Dr4Film
1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

We toured the factory in Aug 2009, they only had a small crew working on coaches.  Still an interesting tour and there was a salesman there pushing to sell coaches to anyone interested.  They let us walk through some coaches right after they got off the line and as they were cleaning them up and fixing defects (and there were plenty)!

 

That was the first time I saw a slide in slide, can't remember which model coach it was but it was a four slides and the front drivers side slide had a slide in a slide. 

Jim, I think that was the 2011 Monaco Dynasty Majestic V coach that had a slide within a slide, 5 slides total.

https://www.monacocoach.com/resources/media/user/1476904684_brc_pdf.pdf


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
46 minutes ago, vanwill52 said:

JD, if you already have rear X-bars, adding a Watts link in the rear will make very little difference.  I developed the whole X-Bar / Watts link system.  Bob Nodine was my first "Guinea Pig" coach.  My coach was among the last to be equipped with my devices, since I thought my coach did not wander badly enough to be a good test platform.  After installing many of the X-bar / Front Watts links, I finally added them to my own coach.  It made a huge difference, even though I had thought previously that it did not wander much.

Adding the front Watts link makes a large difference.  NO, the Watts lever need not be perfectly vertical.  It performs just as well with the Watts lever +/- even 20 degrees.

The anti-sway bar may have some benefits, but stopping wandering is not one of them.  Bob Nodine can confirm that.  He installed them front and rear to cure his wandering.  It had little to no effect.

Bob Nodine and I both removed our S-T-+ hydraulic stabilizer.  I'm not knocking it.  Both of us felt it just added to much effort to steering.  And NO device like that, adjustable or not, will mitigate GUSTING winds...and how often are winds consistent in speed and direction?

I think you have done most of the things to improve your coach's handling.  Are you still dissatisfied?

It seems any wind will push the coach, and really hard to regain control. It’s a constant push to keep it against coming from the side winds, and I had head wind that just just made the front wander uncontrollably. 
 

I’ll start by pulling off the safety steer. And Van I believe you have outlined in the past how to adjust the lash out of the TRW box. I believe though the nut was torqued on with a multiplier and not sure I’ll get it off. I have a 3 hour drive Wednesday to Havasu, and it’s windy so it will be a good test for that 

 

Thanks all, I’ll keep updating fixes and results.  We are half heartedly calling Pearl, our “Rolling Breadbox of Death” now. I’d like to get that name erased 


IOTA have listened
jacwjames
39 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Jim, I think that was the 2011 Monaco Dynasty Majestic V coach that had a slide within a slide, 5 slides total.

https://www.monacocoach.com/resources/media/user/1476904684_brc_pdf.pdf

They actually show a 2010 Majestic also, which is probably what I saw in 2009


Solenoid for the ignition switch
mrbill1951

dl_racing427

I think I'll just replace it, since it is a intermittent issue.

I can only find 120-150851 part number vs. 120-105851-6.  Do you know if there is any difference?

Thanks


Solenoid for the ignition switch
cpat_39

Bill

Here is Rodgers White https://www.supplyhouse.com/White-Rodgers-120-105851-Solenoid-w-Normally-Open-Continuous-Contact-Rating-100-Amps-12-VDC-Grounded-Coil. I'd call https://www.supplyhouse.com/White-Rodgers at 888-757-4774 and inquire about difference. The above link and Amazon site both parts as listed. 

Good idea to swap now.

Pat


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
vanwill52

JD, I have never found the 3/4 hex locknut on dozens of TRW boxes I've adjusted to be too tight to get loose.  Often, however, the locknut is rusted to the adjustment screw, and some serious back-and-forth is required to break them loose from one another.  To get an accurate adjustment, the locknut and adjusting screw must be very freely turning.  You MUST have the steering gear witness marks aligned to adjust the gear (wheels straight ahead).  If your steering gear has any significant play, gusting winds or passing tractor-trailers will be a handful.

Check your Watts link and X-bars for any indication that the mounting plates are moving, or something is loose.  Check for any deterioration in the bushings at the ends of the trailing arms (4 front and 4 rear).  You almost surely have the one-piece later design of bushing, so unless something odd has happened, they should be OK.

I was in a caravan of five coaches leaving from the southeast to Alaska in 2016.  Four of the coaches had my prototype rear X-bars and front Watts links.  We went through some truly brutal gusting winds in Nebraska (white caps on the drainage ponds along the Interstate) which the radio reported were gusting to over 40 MPH.  EVERYONE remarked how stable their coaches were, even when being passed by semi's.  2000 Dynasty 36 (mine), 2006? Diplomat 40 (Bob Nodine), 2011 Camelot 45 (Tom Moore--only tag-axle in the group), 2013 Knight (Craig French).


Solenoid for the ignition switch
mrbill1951

Thanks Pat

Sorry I picked the wrong name for that question

I think I'll replace the solenoid and the ignition since they are both relativity inexpensive vs having a shop troubleshoot and correct.  I may still wind up there but it's worth a shot.


Dash A/C and step relationship
saflyer

I just put a new fuse in, disconnected the A/C vacuum pump, turned the ignition switch on and tried the entry door. The steps operated properly several times. Reconnected the vacuum pump, turned the A/C control to dash fan and the fuse blew. So I’d be willing to replace the vacuum pump but part number E3HT-2A451-BA is obsolete. Ford parts dept. is of no use. Online options do not have this part number but would probably work except for the 12v connections. Mine are blade style. The pictures of the replacements show a cannon plug type or something to that effect. Don’t know if I could adapt my plugs. They are in the $39-55 range. Veurinks seems to offer the exact part that I removed but at $150! Any suggestions?

Ed


Wet bay heater question
Jim McGarvie
4 hours ago, jacwjames said:

 ...hit CTRL5 if it is blurry

I give up, what is "CTRL5" in Mac lingo? It is not legible as is.

Thanks.

 


Adjusting the park airbrake
Mike in Va

Frank, Took my MH to the garage today and they were able to adjust the brake some. Said it looked like it hasn't be adjusted in a LONG time, but the pads looked good. Also found some road grime and grease. It was cleaned good using brake cleaner and they told me it should take care of my problem. I asked about your problem and their response was that your brake should hold the weight of your MH even on an incline. They told me that these type of brakes are put on large delivery trucks with heavy weight and work ok.  Sorry I don't have any answers for you other then keep them adjusted and clean.   


Low Fuel? Really???
cbr046

I hope this is as entertaining as it was painful (for me) . . . .

After being nestled between two idling semis for the night I started driving early this am a when the low fuel light came on.  I had driven 650 miles and figured on another 75 miles before reaching my fuel stop.  OK, maybe I was a little hard on the throttle (using cruise most of the time at 68 mph with a lot of hills).  There was a Love's 24 mile ahead so I should be ok.  So the question became, "How many miles reserve do I have when the fuel light comes on?". . . . . or, "Is this another fun entertainment feature of the Holiday Rambler / Monaco instrument cluster?"

Some internet checking didn't reveal the answer I was looking for, and I didn't want to stop and spend time and fuel driving around a truck stop if it turned out to be a "bad light", so I pulled over on the interstate shoulder and started searching the owners manual.  About the time I gave up on the manual giving me a straight concise answer THE ENGINE QUIT!  Great, that little lean on the shoulder put the fuel on the wrong side of the tank.  I was within sight of the Love's, so started walking with a 5 gal can and a 2 gal can.  The walk back took a LOT longer as 5.4 gal of diesel is HEAVY!  The 2 gal can not so much.  Lots of stopping, breathing, walking, stopping . . . . Dump the fuel in and go through the "prime" routine 4 - 5 times.  Finally it compresses to life!  Waste no time, release the brake, hit D and nurse it on the shoulder.  It pretty much quit right away and wouldn't re-start while rolling so I coasted down the hill and up the other side almost to the ramp.  Now the coach L-R is level but the nose is pointed up sightly.  Sure enough, the sender is on the front-left of the tank. 

The second time to the fuel pump I unloaded my dirt bike and rode it to the station, then backwards on the shoulder back to the coach.  Got another 5.4 gal of diesel, dumped it in, prime routine 4x, cranked up and got down the ramp, past the stop sign, right turn and on my way to the truck entrance IT QUIT FOR THE THIRD TIME!  I rolled to a stop in the middle of the road as there was no shoulder to pull off onto.  Now I'm in the middle, in a sort of turn lane.  I have trucks going by in a single lane on both my left and my right. 

Ok, it's got 12+ gal of new fuel . . . . gotta be the primary filter.  Tested it with the drain valve and it was pretty dark (like dark as coal) with a few flavor specs floating around.  Not good.  This fuel filter had 7,000 miles on it and I didn't figure on it needing replacement with the regular driving I was doing (most weekends).  I don't add any treatment, just keep feeding it diesel.  OTOH, I'm pretty naive with diesel and don't know what a replacement schedule should be.  I (obviously) thought it would be much longer. 

The fun part was closing the side hatch (where AC condenser is) with each semi going by to get access to the filter.  Fortunately it was a slow morning and they weren't going fast.  And it was quiet enough I could hear them pulling out, get out and close the side hatch before they got close (they would have clipped it for sure).  They must have thought I was nuts.  (ok, point taken)

Swap the Donaldson P555001 fuel filter, go through 4 prime cycles (again), crank, crank, crank and fire.  Drive up, get fuel and back on the road.  Only took 3 hours but I got a good workout (and lesson) in the process. 

Now . . . . with all the driving and fuel filling (7.6+5.2+31.7 drive 50 miles +45.6+3.4) I only put 93 gal into a 100 gal tank WITH the 50 miles from the expensive truck stop to cheaper fuel . . . . somewhere around 13 gal remaining when it quit the first time.  I've gone 800+ miles on several occasions, but never with a low fuel light.

The last time this happened, 7,000 miles ago, the ATC light would flicker and transmission downshift while cruise control was engaged. 

WHY WOULD THE LOW FUEL LIGHT COME ON WITH A CLOGGED PRIMARY FUEL FILTER?  I had fuel . . . .

And yes, I'm back home now.

- bob

PS - 48 years ago I had a girlfriend that, after getting stuck on flat ground in an Austin Healy Sprite, said that life with me was never a dull moment.  This one probably tops them all (for me). 


IOTA have listened
tmw188
8 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

I can't believe that a 2002 Windsor and a 2003 Exec would have had IOTA Transfer Switches installed. My 2002 Windsor and JimJ's 2002 Windsor plus anther member who has sold his 2002 Windsor all had the ESCO Lyght Transfer Switch.

Just shows to go you that Monaco didn't care where they installed what and when.

Yeah and I thought these Monaco's were good reputable units, what’s with that build quality control. I guess they still are overall?  


Dash A/C and step relationship
Dear LaserWorks

Sounds like what happened to us (2000 Diplomat). We used a part off Amazon with a different connector, so I made my own wiring to the new pump which has worked great for at least 12 months now. I also bench tested the old pump & it was clear the motor was shot, made odd noise & blew a fuse when I put my finger over the hole so it would attempt to draw a vacuum.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KQF6PC/


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Cubflyer

JD,

Is your front watts link mounted forward or aft of the 'H' frame?   The only thing I have that you do not have is the front sway bar.  I did not have much problem with the strong and gusty winds last summer in NE and WY and I have a 40' bread box..... Prior to adding the watts link and rear crossbars and front sway bar my coach was all over the road, any bump, any seam, overpass seams, passing cars and trucks sent it is any direction.....   

As Van W suggested, check your suspension for looseness.  If ok, I would suggest you add the front sway bar.  It should tame the side to side rocking (I used to have a bad case of that) which should help a lot in crosswinds.

I would not spend a lot of time and energy trying to 'tighten up' your steering box.... that steering wheel thing is to guide the coach to go where you want it to go, not keep it going straight and steady on the road, that's the suspension's job......  JMHO 


Adjusting the park airbrake
Frank Bergamo

Mike,

thanks for the update. I no longer own the motor home in question, so hopefully you have figured out your problem with your park brake. Good luck, hopefully it holds with no more problems.


Keep battery fluid from boiling out while plugged in for winter?
Gary Cole

All of this talk about using unattended portable space heaters is scary. Lot of recalls over the years. Ask your local fire chief what he thinks about space heaters. You are trusting that a 7 cent Chinese thermal snap switch will work in the event of an air circulation failure or that it is even within 100 degrees of its claimed rating. There are space heaters available with a low heat density such that they do not require air circulation. A little more expensive but much safer.

I do charge both battery sets from the front bay with a jumper so long as the standing voltage of the chassis and house batteries is very nearly the same. When that voltage starts to drift due to age and use factors I use individual chargers. After experiencing a near battery event which my inverter did not detect, battery temp reached 170 degrees and was still climbing when I noticed the heat when walking around the vehicle, I decided that a small 115 V 10A  3 stage charger is probably a safer option when the coach is in dry dock. Also be aware that some advertised 3 stage chargers are fake. I now verify a new chargers amp and voltage output through a complete charge before I leave it unattended on a battery which I have grown fond of.

 


Wet bay heater question
jacwjames
2 hours ago, Jim McGarvie said:

I give up, what is "CTRL5" in Mac lingo? It is not legible as is.

Thanks.

 

Not sure, I'm Windows

I have to hit the CTRL   &  5 keys at the same time to clear up the picture,


Low Fuel? Really???
Jeeper44

I can't answer about the low fuel light. I can tell you though after 30 years of driving tractor trailers, if I ever ran out of fuel I would get enough to limp to the closest fuel station, then change the fuel filter immediately. Diesel filters tend to clog if you run out of fuel. I don't know if its the crud at the bottom of the tank, or the air hitting the filter element. I just know the couple times I didn't immediately change the filter, I regretted it soon after when the truck would start running rough. This applies even if I had a brand new filter installed when I ran out of fuel.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
4 hours ago, vanwill52 said:

JD, I have never found the 3/4 hex locknut on dozens of TRW boxes I've adjusted to be too tight to get loose.  Often, however, the locknut is rusted to the adjustment screw, and some serious back-and-forth is required to break them loose from one another.  To get an accurate adjustment, the locknut and adjusting screw must be very freely turning.  You MUST have the steering gear witness marks aligned to adjust the gear (wheels straight ahead).  If your steering gear has any significant play, gusting winds or passing tractor-trailers will be a handful.

Check your Watts link and X-bars for any indication that the mounting plates are moving, or something is loose.  Check for any deterioration in the bushings at the ends of the trailing arms (4 front and 4 rear).  You almost surely have the one-piece later design of bushing, so unless something odd has happened, they should be OK.

I was in a caravan of five coaches leaving from the southeast to Alaska in 2016.  Four of the coaches had my prototype rear X-bars and front Watts links.  We went through some truly brutal gusting winds in Nebraska (white caps on the drainage ponds along the Interstate) which the radio reported were gusting to over 40 MPH.  EVERYONE remarked how stable their coaches were, even when being passed by semi's.  2000 Dynasty 36 (mine), 2006? Diplomat 40 (Bob Nodine), 2011 Camelot 45 (Tom Moore--only tag-axle in the group), 2013 Knight (Craig French).

Thanks, if the witness marks are not aligned, then I’ll need to drop the linkage?

46 minutes ago, Cubflyer said:

JD,

Is your front watts link mounted forward or aft of the 'H' frame?   The only thing I have that you do not have is the front sway bar.  I did not have much problem with the strong and gusty winds last summer in NE and WY and I have a 40' bread box..... Prior to adding the watts link and rear crossbars and front sway bar my coach was all over the road, any bump, any seam, overpass seams, passing cars and trucks sent it is any direction.....   

As Van W suggested, check your suspension for looseness.  If ok, I would suggest you add the front sway bar.  It should tame the side to side rocking (I used to have a bad case of that) which should help a lot in crosswinds.

I would not spend a lot of time and energy trying to 'tighten up' your steering box.... that steering wheel thing is to guide the coach to go where you want it to go, not keep it going straight and steady on the road, that's the suspension's job......  JMHO 

I’ll crawl under in the morn. Just got done with a date shake and some Canes chicken strips with Texas toast and I’m down for the count. I’ll report in the morn 

F6F67134-4458-4D63-A0E0-3B754D18D3DA.jpeg


Low Fuel? Really???
Robert U

My 2000 Dip's low fuel light comes on when I am down to 15 Gal. I have never trusted the fuel gauge. I go by the odometer. My fuel mileage is 8.1 miles/gal since I bought it new. 100 gal x8 =800 miles. I refuel around 500 miles. 7000 miles on a primary fuel filter is really pushing it.

Bob U


Wet bay heater question
Jim McGarvie
9 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

Not sure, I'm Windows

I have to hit the CTRL   &  5 keys at the same time to clear up the picture,

What program are you viewing it with? And do you know what it calls that shortcut? Something in the View menu or something?


Low Fuel? Really???
Flyinhy

Just from my past experiences of being a mechanic, I never go below 1/4 of a tank. When you go below that the bellows of the tank will allow the water and other contaminates to be easily picked up into the system.Always keep a spare filter and a little extra diesel for such a problem. Not a bad idea to drain your tank every once in a while either.......gallons of hidden surprises in a 20 year old fuel tank. 😀 


Low Fuel? Really???
Nevada Rob

If a fuel tank is listed at 100 gallons that would be the total capacity by cubic volume based on the dimensions of the tank. The critical number is how much you can DRAW from the tank. You will never get 100 gallons from a 100 tank. There needs to be expansion room in the tank to accept the warm/hot diesel being returned from the engine. That is why the fill neck is not on the top of the tank but rather close to the top of the tank. The fuel pick up tube does not sit on the bottom of the tank either.  A good rule of thumb is to figure that one can draw 90% of the total capacity of a fuel tank. My coach has a 150 gallon tank. I figure at 135 gallons used I better be at a fuel pump or risk having a great adventure. I get about 700 - 750 from a tank of fuel. With the Gas Buddy app I usually have no problem finding fuel at a decent price within 100 -150 miles before sucking fumes. 


Low Fuel? Really???
jacwjames

I use a Silverleaf VMSpc monitoring system which does show fuel consumption and miles left to travel on my 128 gallon tank.  I usually never let the tank bet below 1/3 empty, but I know that the VMSpc is providing me with very accurate information (probably within 1% of actual fuel consumption). 

I also know that my generator runs out of fuel at 30 gallons left in the tank (so right at 1/4 tank) and I do not want to be stranded without being able to run the generator. 

That being said I will push it, my last trip I wanted to fuel at the Sam's club ~25 miles from the house.  So when I stopped I ended up pumping 100 gallons into the tank.

I recently installed a FASS transfer pump with the filtering capability, so I am continuously polishing the fuel in the tank.  I installed a fuel pressure gauge on the secondary filter so know how much fuel pressure I have going to the injection pump.  Gives me a warm fuzzy feeling everytime I look at the gauge and know everything is OK.


ABS light came on
Mike in Va

Just came from the garage after my abs light came on. Didn't have the time to look at it myself so took it to the garage. Turns out the sensor on the RR tire had moved out a little and that was the problem. Took longer to get the mh in the garage then it did to find the problem. Next time I'm going to take the time to look at it first.    


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Scott 61

I have an 08 Holiday Rambler Endeavor RR8R  Was thinking about getting the Watts link & crossbar what I'm reading I only need the front Watts Link & rear cross bars & front sway bar is that correct?? thank you 


Low Fuel? Really???
Cubflyer

Your story makes me feel really good about spending about $700.00 and many hours to install a F.A.S.S. filter and pump system to replace my primary filter and bypass the stock lift pump.   I had black diesel fuel when I got my coach last spring, between the filters and the full time running lift pump with a pressure gauge to tell me the pressure between the primary and secondary filter (condition of my primary filter and pump) and biocide, my engine has run flawlessly for 3000+ miles.   

Not sure I could walk with fuel cans like you.....

Ken 


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
David White
4 minutes ago, Scott 61 said:

I have an 08 Holiday Rambler Endeavor RR8R  Was thinking about getting the Watts link & crossbar what I'm reading I only need the front Watts Link & rear cross bars & front sway bar is that correct?? thank you 

Scott, based on all I’ve read and my experience, I would do the 2 you had planned and wait on the sway bars.  Likely you will see a good improvement without the sway bars, but can always add later if required.


ABS light came on
weighman695

Mike,

Do you have a picture of how the ABS sensors look like?   Where can I find those?


Adjusting the park airbrake
Frank McElroy

Mike - It sounds like your service center fixed the problem.  Years ago I had a motorhome (not a Monaco) with a similar drive shaft brake.  On mine I adjusted it only one time shortly after I got the coach new.  On mine, the adjustment was just like a car with brake drums where you needed to properly adjust the star wheel between the two brake shoes.  My only problem was that the access hole was on the drum.  So I had to jack up one rear wheel in order to rotate the drive shaft to align the access hole with the star adjustment wheel.  In my case, after adjustment, the parking brake would hold on any steep incline I ever encountered in over 60,000 miles that I used the coach.  Even so, whenever I parked at a campground, I still chocked the wheels for safety.  Even on my new coach with full air brakes, I still chock the drive wheel when I'm in a campground.


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