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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/580-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

IOTA have listened
Dr4Film
Dash A/C and step relationship
Dr4Film
Low Fuel? Really???
lake49068
Wet bay heater question
jacwjames
Low Fuel? Really???
jacwjames
ABS light came on
jegall
IOTA have listened
Grampy OG
Low Fuel? Really???
ktloah
Low Fuel? Really???
cbr046
Low Fuel? Really???
Chuck B
Dash A/C and step relationship
saflyer
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
waterskier_1
Dash A/C and step relationship
Dr4Film
Windsor's and Dave O
Chuck B
Tire PSI Settings
Paul A.
Tire PSI Settings
Chargerman
air bag
lusgi
Awning spring
Flyinhy
Tire PSI Settings
Paul A.
Awning spring
Gary 05 AMB DST
Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
vanwill52
Tire PSI Settings
moxy1962
Dash Air Compressor Always On?
burghere66
Dash Air Compressor Always On?
FishAR
Awning spring
Hancoman
Dash Air Compressor Always On?
DavidL
Dash Air Compressor Always On?
Chuck B
air bag
JetAburner

New Posts

Air leveling aux compressor air line routing
amphi_sc

I was replacing the auxiliary air leveling compressor 90-120 psi switch and noticed some water in the low spot bend by the T push connector.   Line was routed as compressor air enters T on the side, up goes to the tank, down loops down then up very high to the pressure switch.  So looks like moisture will collect in the down bend but never reach the internals of the pressure switch as that is tied up high, but that is a dead end line. Should it be plumbed such that moisture will blow thru into the tank?  i.e. instead of the T being on it's side it would be horizontal with pressure switch line coming off the top of the T and in/out lines on the horizontal plane (T upside down rather than sideways)?  I've never seen any sign of water vapor when cracking the air bleed valves.  Or would it make sense to plumb in another cheap/simple dryer from the aux compressor which feeds only the air suspension tank.  Moisture probably would not be ideal in the six-pack valves.  Either I had a bad switch (which I assumed) or the water in that bend made the pump cycle wierd ... as in run sometimes for a minute then cycle off but at other times run for part of a second every couple of seconds for minutes before staying on long enough to build up pressure.  I assumed bad internal switch contacts but would water caught in that low bend make sensing pressure wierd?   It works normally now with the new switch and drained line, but wondering about future condensation.  Guess I could break the line every now and then for draining condensation but the tubing and push connector would likely wear out.  Just trying to figure out what idea is best long term.  It was probably collecting condensation for years...

 


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Bob Nodine
7 hours ago, David White said:

Scott, based on all I’ve read and my experience, I would do the 2 you had planned and wait on the sway bars.  Likely you will see a good improvement without the sway bars, but can always add later if required.

I agree with David that you do the front Watts link and rear crossbars and wait on he sway bars. 


IOTA have listened
Dr4Film
18 hours ago, lake49068 said:

Have been following this thread for a while and time to butt in!  The IOTA was installed in my 2010 Neptune and changed out by Navistar as a result of the recall at the Chapter 419 MS with the Southwire unit.  The Southwire unit "went south" in 2018 and I replaced it with a Progressive Dynamics 5200 Series PD52.  It does not hum and has worked without issue for the past 3 years...I do an annual check of the lugs.  The PD unit is a smaller than the Southwire and does not have the "whistles and bells" but didn't need them since I also have the Progressive Industries "hard wired" surge unit.  So another transfer switch option...and would be interested to read any comments regarding the PD unit.  They are a local company (Marshall, MI) and have a long history of supplying the RV industry with well engineered electronics.

Adam

Adam, I have not heard of any complaints with the Progressive Dynamics Transfer Switch. Overall I think it's a pretty darn good transfer switch. Not surprised about the Southwire Transfer Switch failure. Plus there have been numerous complaints about the loud humming it creates.

I think you made the right choice. A transfer switch does not need "bells & whistles". It only needs to have a time delay circuit board to ensure the generator voltage is at a stable level before transfer occurs. Plus it automatically senses generator power and prevents two power sources from entering the AC Distribution Panel at the same time.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Bob Nodine
9 hours ago, JDCrow said:

Thanks, if the witness marks are not aligned, then I’ll need to drop the linkage?

I’ll crawl under in the morn. Just got done with a date shake and some Canes chicken strips with Texas toast and I’m down for the count. I’ll report in the morn 

F6F67134-4458-4D63-A0E0-3B754D18D3DA.jpeg

Van beat something into my head and I think everyone needs to keep that lesson in mind. It is a simple statement, "your coach is going to go where your wheels are pointed". If gusting winds are changing the direction of your coach then the wind pushing against your coach is changing the direction that the front wheels are pointing. The design of the Roadmaster chassis makes it almost impossible to completely stop this because the wheels are floating on four air bags that must be stabilized by trailing arms and a single Panhard bar. The Watts link makes a huge difference because it removes the tendency of the H-frame to twist on the fulcrum point created by having only one Panhard bar. That is why it is important to keep the Watts link as far from the Panhard bar as possible. If the Watts link is mounted on the same side of the H-frame as the Panhard bar then it will not be as effective in keeping the H-frame from twisting when trucks pass or a gust of wind hits the side of the coach. The trailing arms are long and that coupled with the fact that bushings must have some give makes it impossible for the trailing arms to completely stabilize the H-frame. I don't know the relationship of your Watts link to your Panhard bar but I suspect that it is either not far enough away or your Watts link is not firmly attached or has a loose or broken pivot pin. Just 1/16 of an inch of movement will affect the straight line handling of the coach.

This brings up the subject of the TRW and the tie rod ends. Any slop in the tie rod ends or movement of the Pitman arm on the TRW will cause the front wheels to change direction when wind pushes against the side of the coach. Remember your coach is going where your wheels are pointed. I could bore you with some trigonometry of what will happen at 60 MPH if your font wheels slightly change direction but I want. 


RV Whisper & SeeLevel Gauges - 2006 Diplomat
Bob Nodine
On 10/11/2021 at 10:52 AM, Scotty Hutto said:

@Bob Nodine, Quick question… Did you solder your wiring connections or use butt splices?  Also, when using the winterizing wiring harness, did you create plugs and use the existing connectors, or cut the connectors off and splice/solder?

Scotty,

I did not solder them.

Bob

 


Dash A/C and step relationship
Dr4Film

Ed, there are plenty of electric vacuum pumps to choose from. There may even be one listed in the Monacoers Parts List. Just buy a new one, install it and you should be good to go.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Ivylog

Source Engineering has “Comfort Ride Valve Kit” that restricts air out of the airbags helping to reduce roll. A lot easier to install than a roll bar.

Newer rigs have “ping tanks” that help to decrease roll by increasing the volume of air.

No offense to short wheelbase rigs BUT their better turning radius hurts their straight line control compared to longer rigs.

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Low Fuel? Really???
lake49068

Don't be fooled by the advertised fuel tank capacity.  My Neptune supposedly has a 75 gallon capacity and I discovered that like a light aircraft, it's the USABLE fuel capacity that matters.  On our first post-purchase trip, I ran out at the Flying J pump thinking I had at least 10-15 gallons remaining based on the trip odometer reading since the previous fill.  I contacted tech service and asked "what's the usable fuel capacity.". Not a clue.  So on the next fill I let the pump auto shut off, used a flashlight to look down the filler neck and continued to add fuel until it rose into the filler neck.  An additional 13 gallons!  So now whenever I refuel I use my flashlight and visually make sure a full tank is actually full.  PITA but now I'm sure that my trip odometer and fuel gage are synched.

Adam


Wet bay heater question
jacwjames

This is a PDF file, I received the original from Monaco Tech support years ago.  Most of the pages are normal, when you zoom it they are clear/readagle.  This page is shrunk down and I have to zoom in at 800% to be able to see/read, but it is blurry until I hit CTRL 5. 

So to have the view saved I just "print view" to a PDF file but it is blurry when you first open. 

Not sure what the solution would be.


Low Fuel? Really???
jacwjames
14 minutes ago, lake49068 said:

Don't be fooled by the advertised fuel tank capacity.  My Neptune supposedly has a 75 gallon capacity and I discovered that like a light aircraft, it's the USABLE fuel capacity that matters.  On our first post-purchase trip, I ran out at the Flying J pump thinking I had at least 10-15 gallons remaining based on the trip odometer reading since the previous fill.  I contacted tech service and asked "what's the usable fuel capacity.". Not a clue.  So on the next fill I let the pump auto shut off, used a flashlight to look down the filler neck and continued to add fuel until it rose into the filler neck.  An additional 13 gallons!  So now whenever I refuel I use my flashlight and visually make sure a full tank is actually full.  PITA but now I'm sure that my trip odometer and fuel gage are synched.

Adam

I can fill from either side and the fuel tank is angled down into the tank.  When I fill I continue pumping until the fuel starts to burp.

If i tilted the coach (which I've never done) I could probably get 10 more gallons of fuel it it. 

The most I've ever pump was been ~110 gallon after driving ~900 miles (never got out of the drivers seat).  That was pushing it, never done that again. 


ABS light came on
jegall

If you are still in Tulsa check with Tulsa auto spring they work on motorhome ABS .

Jim Gallaway

9182846071


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
vanwill52

What Bob Nodine said about the steering gear needing to have minimal play to minimize wandering is correct.  If you jack up your rig's front tires off the ground (DON'T let it hang on the shocks), you can grab the tire and move the front wheels back and forth.  That demonstrates that the steering gear has very low internal friction and is easily moved by even a small outside force.  When a side force acts on the coach, it tends to cause the front wheels to want to change direction (in addition to trying to "twist" the H-frame, which also changes your wheels' direction).  If the caster was set at zero, this effect would be minimized, but positive caster is necessary for the coach's wheels to have a natural tendency to "return to center" after you make a turn.  Were it not for caster, you would have to crank the wheel back to center.

Even in the TRW gear (just as in the Sheppard) the Pittman arm is driven by a purely mechanical rack-and-pinion.  When you turn the steering wheel (through a low-friction ball screw and nut) you are moving the rack.  The rack, in turn, causes the pinion to rotate.  The pinion is rigidly attached to the Pittman arm which (through linkage) turns the wheels back and forth.

The genius of the TRW gear design, as opposed to the Sheppard, is that the rack gear (mounted to the ball nut inside the gear) is cut with "crowned teeth".  That is, the teeth are "higher" (greater pitch diameter) in the middle (the dead-ahead position).  The "dead ahead" position is where most of the wear occurs on both the pinion and the rack, since you spend the great majority of your time driving in a nearly straight line (down a straight highway, for instance).  Since the center is the position where the maximum wear will occur, if you could increase the size (pitch diameter) of the pinion, you could compensate for that wear.  Fortunately, the TRW gear is equipped with a pinion whose teeth are cut in a "cone shape". That is, the pitch diameter increases (very slightly) along its tooth length.  The adjustment on the TRW gear allows you to increase the engagement of the pinion gear into the rack gear, increase the pinion's effective pitch diameter, and decrease the backlash to near-zero.  This works only because the rack gear is cut with its teeth higher in the middle.  Were that not the case, if you increased the engagement of the pinion to compensate for wear of the rack gear in the "straight ahead" position, it would bind as it traveled to either side of center.

This is the reason that a Sheppard gear CANNOT be "blueprinted" by ANY method to have near-zero backlash EXCEPT by sorting through parts to find the largest pinion and rack that will fit together.  There is NO adjustment for depth-of-engagement of the pinion to the rack gear.  Then, over time, backlash will grow in the "straight ahead" position and nothing can be done about it.  The Sheppard has a straight-cut rack and a straight-cut pinion.  To its credit, the Sheppard gear is significantly more rugged than the TRW, and that is perhaps why it is the steering gear of choice on many heavy off-road vehicles, where travel speeds are low and "straight ahead" backlash is of little consequence.

The reason that Sheppard gears perform OK in road tractors is that the front axle of the tractor is orders of magnitude more stiffly connected to the truck chassis through heavy leaf springs.  Therefore, the tendency of the wheels to remain "dead ahead" is much greater than our coaches with axles connected to separate H-frames connected by spindly trailing arms and supported by mushy air bags, and held in position by ONE Panhard rod, before connecting to the coach chassis.  Add to that the tendency of multi-axle vehicles to continue in a straight line in the face of side forces, and you have a case where the "dead ahead" backlash is of little consequence.

The tendency of tag-axle coaches to exhibit much less tendency to wander is due to this multi-axle tendency to move in a straight line.  It is also the reason that most coach manufacturers advise you to lift the tag axle when attempting to make sharp turns at low speeds.


IOTA have listened
Grampy OG
On 10/18/2021 at 6:03 AM, tmw188 said:

I completed my install of the Surge Guard 41260 TS yesterday. I used the ferrules and crimping tool that was mentioned from Grampy OG and was very pleased with the all wire connections because of using this method. The tool could of been another two inches longer for for more leverage however. Hard area to work in on my 02 Windsor. Removed the tray slide to gain much better access, that’s a must. Installed a receptacle on the shore power inlet to plug my Hughes AF into. I have that worry off my plate now. My old IOTA looked absolutely fine but I will say this, it has been only a couple of months since I inspected it and checked all the wires connections and they didn’t seem as tight as I left them. I need to secure my AF and tidy up some cabling. 

D495129B-2A8F-41F3-9016-371938397103.jpeg

 

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Looks great. Kudos on getting the extra receptacles installed! It looks like if you ever need to pull your invertor it should be fairly easy. Mine is hanging from the ceiling of my biggest bay and I will probably need a floor jack to supported it to pull it down. 

Ken

 


Air leveling aux compressor air line routing
Nevada Rob

Can you insert a "T" in the low spot on the bend? Then a short piece of tubing off the "T" leg pointed down and put a 1/4 turn drain valve on the end. Similar to the drain valves from the MFG.


Low Fuel? Really???
ktloah

I never let my fuel get below much more than 1/2 before topping off again


Air leveling aux compressor air line routing
Old Dog

I installed an auto draining water/sediment filter after the compress check valve. Cost about $45.00 plus a couple npt to push lock air fittings and should protect everything in the system.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow

Thanks everyone, getting around and watched the TRW video. 

thanks Van and Bob for never growing tired of explaining and helping. I know you both must have repeated this over a thousand times. 
 

 

 


Low Fuel? Really???
cbr046

I like to drive, not spend time at the pump.  Apparently I like to walk, too. 😄

Last time the fuel filter clogged I was getting an intermittent ATC light and transmission downshift while in cruise concontrol.  Unless I had low fuel which compounded the trash headed to the filter.  2 issues, not one. 
 
7,000 miles / 5 months on this filter.
 
Without dropping the tank, is there a way to clean the fuel and minimize tank trash?  A particularly good additive?
 
- bob

Air leveling aux compressor air line routing
willbo777
28 minutes ago, Old Dog said:

I installed an auto draining water/sediment filter after the compress check valve. Cost about $45.00 plus a couple npt to push lock air fittings and should protect everything in the system.

Would you have a picture or more info on the filter?


Integrating Jake Brake and Cruise Control on Detroit Diesel
georgecederholm

Just a quick post to see if anyone knows this before I start checking with my Detroit Diesel shop and have them laugh at me…

I remember (I think!) from years ago that some of the early-to-mid-2000s Windsors (Dave O, maybe) were programmed to automatically engage the exhaust/engine brake if speed increased a set MPH a over the cruise control speed value, while the cruise was engaged. I seem to recall that this was done via the engine software parameters. This generated mixed opinions, of course, and I didn’t pursue it at the time.

So, my question is: does anyone know if this kind of setting is generic enough that it might be available on a 2004-built Detroit Diesel Series 60? We have changed toads (complicated story) and the new one cautions against speeds over 65 MPH. I know that’s not an absolute, but I’m used to letting speeds get up to the mid-70s on moderate long downgrades, and I’m fussing a bit to keep things in check. I know that cruise and Jake can interact well, since my Vorad system will apply the Jake if needed to maintain distance with a slower vehicle while the cruise is on.

Thanks in advance…


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
ok-rver

2004 HR ISC with LN "DUVAC" alternator. There are several connectors in the battery compartment and one is labeled DUVAC. The MH has a battery bank combiner but it is not like the ones I am seeing in these posts. It is a simple White-Rogers/RBM relay. Purple and white wires connected to the coil terminals. Relay posts connected to both battery banks, one cable is much smaller. Looks to be the original installation. I do not have the finned component shown in the OP pictures. I am not getting charging between the battery banks. The dash combine switch works correctly as I use it when we have been on shore power for some time to boast the start battery.  I have jumped 12v to the coil to close relay and see 70 amps going from house to start when on shore power. Was the big boy an option or am I missing something that is not in the battery compartment?

I looked at the ML-ACR specs. Does the ACR charge both directions? I would be good if when on shore power the chassis batteries were charged.

bright red plastic in picture is lead to my volt meter 

HRS battery combiner relay 1.JPG


Low Fuel? Really???
Chuck B

Many decent size yacht clubs has the equipment to clean the fuel tanks and polish the fuel in them.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Integrating Jake Brake and Cruise Control on Detroit Diesel
JDCrow

Mid 70s on downgrades. Be still my heart. I wish I had more to add, other than jealousy 


Speedometer reading way too high, and transmission not shifting up
RoadTripper2084

For what it's worth, the tach on my 97 Dynasty (mechanical C8.3) has an issue where it will jump up very high and immediately settle back to the correct RPMs. This occurs frequently when the engine is cold, and far less frequently when it is warm. From what I've read it appears likely to be an issue with the alternator, though a dodgy ground might also be a factor?

I replaced the belt and tensioner and noticed when I hand-turned the alternator that it made a ticking sound every rotation, but there was no play in the pulley and I couldn't "feel" anything corresponding to the ticking either, but now I noticed the tensioner is jumping a bit when it's running. I think I'll pull the alternator off and get a rebuild kit while it's in winter storage.

My speedo has been reading a little high, usually 2-5kms hour over. Last trip though it also started to jump way up and then back down, though staying high for minutes at a time. Not sure what could be causing this either, though dodgy ground connection seems likely. 

I will be refreshing my ground bus connections at the rear of the coach, and if there is one in front of the front firewall in the spring to see if that clears up the speedo issue.

 


Dash A/C and step relationship
saflyer
5 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Ed, there are plenty of electric vacuum pumps to choose from. There may even be one listed in the Monacoers Parts List. Just buy a new one, install it and you should be good to go.

I don’t know that it is that simple. I found a Dorman 904-214 online but it has a 4 wire female connector. Mine has only two wires so I wonder what function the other two wires serve. My fist thought is the vacuum sensing in my pump is internal to it while the Dorman one might get its sensing from an external source. I don’t know. I can get a 4 wire male connector and just use two of the wires but wonder if that will work.

I can’t find the Monacoers parts list. I found “Store” but it just returns a blank page.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow

Couple of pics from the underside. I don’t see any glaring cracks, bad bushings, bent arms, etc.

I will say after reading comments and my limited knowledge that having these large “trailing” arms with nothing in front of the axle to keep straight with the frame seems just off. The pan hard rod and the watts are both on the back side of the front axle. 

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Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
waterskier_1
50 minutes ago, ok-rver said:

2004 HR ISC with LN "DUVAC" alternator. There are several connectors in the battery compartment and one is labeled DUVAC. The MH has a battery bank combiner but it is not like the ones I am seeing in these posts. It is a simple White-Rogers/RBM relay. Purple and white wires connected to the coil terminals. Relay posts connected to both battery banks, one cable is much smaller. Looks to be the original installation. I do not have the finned component shown in the OP pictures. I am not getting charging between the battery banks. The dash combine switch works correctly as I use it when we have been on shore power for some time to boast the start battery.  I have jumped 12v to the coil to close relay and see 70 amps going from house to start when on shore power. Was the big boy an option or am I missing something that is not in the battery compartment?

I looked at the ML-ACR specs. Does the ACR charge both directions? I would be good if when on shore power the chassis batteries were charged.

bright red plastic in picture is lead to my volt meter 

HRS battery combiner relay 1.JPG

It appears you have an IRD (Isolator Relay Delay) which only allow for charging of both battery banks from the alternator.  You would need a BIRD K Bidirectional IRD) to charge from the shore power inverter/ charger to both battery banks

The wire marker DUVAC is the sense wire for the alternator and should be connected to tuff Chassis battery positive terminal. 


Dash A/C and step relationship
Dr4Film

I'd bet that your local NAPA store would have exactly what you need or could get it. Just remove what you have and take it with you.


Speedometer reading way too high, and transmission not shifting up
Skipjack

Thanks for the response

I am going to replace my VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) this weekend and give it a try.

However, my speed reading is steady and accurate going down the road, when I am not having the issues described.

I am hoping it is nothing more costly like my ECM.

My next step may be to find a Cummins shop

 

thanks

 


Integrating Jake Brake and Cruise Control on Detroit Diesel
Frank McElroy

I don't know about a Detroit diesel but on a Cummins, that feature exist for most engine models.  The ECM feature is set via the Cummins Insite software by turning on the feature and setting the speed in terms of MPH above the cruise control set speed that it will turn on the Jake brake.  You must also turn off the feature that automatically cancel the cruise control so that the cruise control automatically resumes after the Jake is turned off.


Windsor's and Dave O
Chuck B

FWIW, There were not any Detroit diesels installed on any Windsor's that I know of.   Dave O is no longer with us for a few years.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Tire PSI Settings
Paul A.
On 10/17/2021 at 2:18 PM, Ivylog said:

I’ve helped enough people adjust their tag pressure to know what happens so I’ll let you go to a scale and see what happens when you increase the tag’s pressure. “Just like a teeter totter.” is where the fulcrum in the middle came from. I do like someone who doubles down.

And, you can not increase the weight on the tag AND steer buy increasing the weight on the tag. I would like to see those weight transfers on a scale weight print out. 


Tire PSI Settings
Chargerman

Sorry Paul but you are incorrect. Increasing pressure on the tag will certainly increase steer axle weight. I don’t have my scale weights at hand but I can tell you with certainty that this is indeed the case. 


air bag
lusgi

i need a part number for a front airbag for a 1998 windsor


Awning spring
Flyinhy

While I'm waiting on the tire shop to call me I've been looking for replacement springs for my large slide awning. I'm not sure of the manufacturer. The large awning on the passenger side is Girard bit I don't ha e any info on the other awnings. The two in the rear work fine but the drivers side will not retract on its own and I have to climb on top and roll it up by hand. I'm just assuming it's a spring broken. Anyone have any ideas of where to get parts for this?Screenshot_20211019-143907_Gallery.thumb.jpg.2f9b24df9ed074bc83ae186e378c0a78.jpg


Tire PSI Settings
Paul A.
22 minutes ago, Chargerman said:

Sorry Paul but you are incorrect. Increasing pressure on the tag will certainly increase steer axle weight. I don’t have my scale weights at hand but I can tell you with certainty that this is indeed the case. 

IVYLOG said it. This is his statement; "Sorry but the opposite is true. If you increase the weight on the tag 1000 lbs, the drive decreases 1200 lbs and the steer increase 200 lbs on a 45’ rig. There is no fulcrum in the middle, it’s a arm and  it’s on a 280” to 44” ratio …6/1 approx."


Awning spring
Gary 05 AMB DST

Contact stonevos.com. They are the go to awning people.

Gary 05 AMB DST


Preventing DUVAC alternator problems
vanwill52
3 hours ago, ok-rver said:

2004 HR ISC with LN "DUVAC" alternator. There are several connectors in the battery compartment and one is labeled DUVAC. The MH has a battery bank combiner but it is not like the ones I am seeing in these posts. It is a simple White-Rogers/RBM relay. Purple and white wires connected to the coil terminals. Relay posts connected to both battery banks, one cable is much smaller. Looks to be the original installation. I do not have the finned component shown in the OP pictures. I am not getting charging between the battery banks. The dash combine switch works correctly as I use it when we have been on shore power for some time to boast the start battery.  I have jumped 12v to the coil to close relay and see 70 amps going from house to start when on shore power. Was the big boy an option or am I missing something that is not in the battery compartment?

I looked at the ML-ACR specs. Does the ACR charge both directions? I would be good if when on shore power the chassis batteries were charged.

bright red plastic in picture is lead to my volt meter 

HRS battery combiner relay 1.JPG

Mike, as Rick said, it appears the relay you show connects the two battery banks only when the alternator (engine) is running.  I'm not familiar with the details of the wiring on your coach, so the one thing that I don't understand is that there are two different sized large cables attached to the main terminals of the contactor. 

Yes, the ML-ACR is bi-directional.  Any time a charging voltage is detected from ANY source, the ML-ACR detects it and connects both battery banks together to charge them at once.  When the charging voltage disappears, the ML-ACR disconnects the two battery banks, preserving the charge on the chassis battery, even as the coach batteries are being depleted.  It also accomplishes the Battery Boost function, so that no Big Boy is needed.

Each ML-ACR installation is only slightly different, depending on how the coach was originally wired.  The bottom line is that you connect the alternator output directly to the chassis battery, then connect another heavy cable from the positive terminal of the CHASSIS battery to one large post of the ML-ACR, and connect another heavy cable from the positive terminal of the HOUSE batteries to the other large post of the ML-ACR.  Attach the two (black and red?) small wires from the ML-ACR to ground and an "always on" positive supply.  The ML-ACR then takes over the function of both the IRD and the Battery Boost contactor, and both original devices can be removed.

Bear in mind as you wire it that the ML-ACR does only ONE thing--it either connects the positive terminal of both battery banks, or disconnects them, based on whether any charging source is detected.


Tire PSI Settings
moxy1962
On 10/14/2021 at 7:35 AM, Ivylog said:

Sorry but the opposite is true. If you increase the weight on the tag 1000 lbs, the drive decreases 1200 lbs and the steer increase 200 lbs on a 45’ rig. There is no fulcrum in the middle, it’s a arm and  it’s on a 280” to 44” ratio …6/1 approx.

It’s actually the inverse square logarithm double the distance quadruple the force or conversely halve the distance decrease the force by 75%, and adding 1000 lbs of force with no physical changes cannot create 1200 lbs of force unless You can change the laws of physics 


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
vanwill52

JD, I don't see anything obviously wrong.  You could slide the outboard mounts for the Watts link arms toward the center of the coach on both sides to cause the Watts pivot bar in the center to be more nearly vertical, but I have never seen that make any difference.

It is always preferable to mount the Watts link as far from the Panhard rod as possible, which would be near the front of the H-frame.  But on 98% of the coaches, the only practical place to mount it is where yours is--behind the Panhard rod.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
4 minutes ago, vanwill52 said:

JD, I don't see anything obviously wrong.  You could slide the outboard mounts for the Watts link arms toward the center of the coach on both sides to cause the Watts pivot bar in the center to be more nearly vertical, but I have never seen that make any difference.

It is always preferable to mount the Watts link as far from the Panhard rod as possible, which would be near the front of the H-frame.  But on 98% of the coaches, the only practical place to mount it is where yours is--behind the Panhard rod.

Yeah that’s where the instructions  had us put the Watts. Doesn’t it seem that something should be forward of the axle towards the front to help center it? 


Integrating Jake Brake and Cruise Control on Detroit Diesel
vito.a

The issue with this is engaging the Jake brake disconnects the cruise control. 

The engine and trans communicate over the SAE J1939 bus using  a specified interface.  So, if it can be done Allison would be the folks to talk to.  

Does your Executive have the console mounted Jake, or the foot pedal?  Many folks prefer the foot pedal as you can engage it with your left foot and keep both hands on the wheel.  Maybe adding a Jake brake foot pedal would help.  

Frank's correct.  Monaco kept the Windsor a "lighter" weight diesel without a tag axle.  The early Windsor had the Cummins 5.9L, then in mid 1996 they upgraded to the C8.3L.  In 1998 they used the Cummins ISC (electronic version of the 8.3).  In 2003 they upgraded to the Cummins 8.9L ISL.


Dash Air Compressor Always On?
burghere66

For the past 3 years I have been having problems with my dash air.  We've searched high and low trying to determine were the system was leaking freon.  Once again, after replacing the fittings at the compressor, there seems to be a leak in the system.  I think this is going to be an ongoing problem.

My question for today is why the compressor is always energized even when I turn the dash control to heat/vent.   No matter what position I turn the selector switch to from the off position the clutch kicks in and runs the compressor.  I would think it would only be energized when the selector is turned to Air or Max Air.  Should I unplug the control wire at the compressor during our winter travel?

Gary B.

2002 Monaco Windsor, PBDD


Dash Air Compressor Always On?
FishAR

My owner manual says the air conditioning compressor is always active to remove humidity from the rv unless you turn the whole system off. 


Awning spring
Hancoman

Charles 

  That looks the same as mine a zip-dee. I had my spring replaced last year   The repair shop ordered the replacement from Zip-dee. I believe we have the same coach 2001 executive 43’


Dash Air Compressor Always On?
DavidL

Like FishAR says, compressor is there to remove humidity.  Defrost mode too.

You should have leak dye put into the system.

I would power wash the entire system front to back first.

Then, when the air stops cooling again, look for dirt collection.  That dirt may be the oil in the system leaving which then attacts dirt.

The leak dye might also help find the leak with a UV light.

Likely whoever is replacing seals, didn't find the actual leak if it persists.  Or they are putting the wrong oRings on the joints (too small).

What happens is someone puts the wrong seal on and it then leaks.  Then the second mechanic replaces with the same size and it too leaks.

You just have to find a decent AC repair (auto is same as RV) that will methodically diagnose the issue and not just slap a part on an call it good.

There's no magic involved...just tenacity.


Dash Air Compressor Always On?
Chuck B

Comes that way from the factory free, no extra charge.  Try turning the dash air on when you first start the engine.  That allows the high Freon side to equalize in the evaporator before trying to cool.  Chuck B 2994 Windsor


Integrating Jake Brake and Cruise Control on Detroit Diesel
georgecederholm
1 hour ago, vito.a said:

The issue with this is engaging the Jake brake disconnects the cruise control. 

The engine and trans communicate over the SAE J1939 bus using  a specified interface.  So, if it can be done Allison would be the folks to talk to.  

Does your Executive have the console mounted Jake, or the foot pedal?  Many folks prefer the foot pedal as you can engage it with your left foot and keep both hands on the wheel.  Maybe adding a Jake brake foot pedal would help.  

Frank's correct.  Monaco kept the Windsor a "lighter" weight diesel without a tag axle.  The early Windsor had the Cummins 5.9L, then in mid 1996 they upgraded to the C8.3L.  In 1998 they used the Cummins ISC (electronic version of the 8.3).  In 2003 they upgraded to the Cummins 8.9L ISL.

Vito,

Well, if I do try to get it changed, it’ll be at W.W.Williams, the Detroit/Allison shop in Phoenix, so they should be able to handle both sides.

That said, at least Frank has confirmed what I thought I remembered: it’s possible on electronic Cummins engines, at least those used in some models. And my configuration already allows concurrent Cruise and Jake use as that’s the way the Vorad system works.

As far as my setup, my 2005 Exec does not have the foot pedal but rather two Carling switches (On/Off, Hi/Lo) on the armrest console. If I pursue the change, I’ll ask about moving the switch to see if that makes a difference.

Thanks,

3 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

I don't know about a Detroit diesel but on a Cummins, that feature exist for most engine models.  The ECM feature is set via the Cummins Insite software by turning on the feature and setting the speed in terms of MPH above the cruise control set speed that it will turn on the Jake brake.  You must also turn off the feature that automatically cancel the cruise control so that the cruise control automatically resumes after the Jake is turned off.

Frank,

Thanks for confirming what I thought I remembered. I knew I recalled that multiple settings were needed. I’m not sure how my Vorad is configured to engage the Jake without cancelling the Cruise, but I know it’s possible.

Thanks,


air bag
JetAburner

I need one as well, for a 99 Windsor to carry as a spare.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
vanwill52

JD, you can still slide the outboard clamps toward the coach center, so the Watts lever is nearly vertical, not that it will make much, if any, difference in how it works.  You might have to notch the corner braces of the H-frame slightly to clear moving the outboard clamps inward.

The worst, most road-wild coach I ever drove was my first Monaco, a 1993 Dynasty with Kohler LPG generator, which did not roll out on a slide.  That was the coach that got me to delve into what was actually causing all the wandering...that is, AFTER I followed the "herd wisdom" that shocks could cure wandering.  The truth is that shocks do ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to prevent wandering...except between the ears of the person who just shelled out a small fortune for them.  And the shocks certainly did nothing for my 1993 Dynasty wandering.   All they did was make the ride harsher.

When I finished with it, that was the absolute BEST driving/handling coach I ever owned, including my present 2000 Dynasty.  The 1993 Dynasty never got a Watts link.  I had not thought of that at the time.   The 1993 Dynasty was the last year that X-bars could be installed FRONT and REAR.  I welded small tabs with a hole for a 1/2" bolt near both ends of the two lower trailing arms front and rear.  My X-bars were 1/2" diameter steel bars, threaded at each end for small Heim joints.  Yup, they worked perfectly. If you think about it, the X-bars perform in TENSION--when one bar is being "stretched" the other is lightly loaded in compression.  Even 1/4" X-bars might have worked on that 1993 Dynasty.

The idea of the Watts link came to me as I was trying to come up with something that would work for the front of coaches that had a generator in the way and prevented the use of X-bars in the front (ALL coaches 2004 and newer).  After the experience with the 1993 Dynasty, I decided X-bars were best for both front and rear, but simply could not be fitted to most post-1993 coaches.  The X-bars always acted at the extreme ends of the trailing arms, where they were best at preventing the H-frame from "squirming" under side loads.

But I never came up with a way I liked for putting X-bars on the front, hence the development of the Watts link application.  And yes, the farther the Watts link is located from the Panhard bar, the better it controls the H-frame.  But it makes a huge improvement, even if it is closer than optimal to the Panhard bar.  Another consideration in the Watts link development was to make something that did not require welding. 

On my 2000 Dynasty, I WELDED the Watts link assembly to attach to the FRONT crossmember of the H-frame, nearly triple the distance from the Panhard bar as it would have been had I mounted it overlaying the front jack mount.  That type installation is possible on most coaches, and surely performs better, but requires some extensive welding and extra steel tubing and flat bar and additional machining.  I have a fully equipped machine shop at my home.


Dash Air Compressor Always On?
burghere66

Thank You all so very much.  I figured it had to do with removing the moisture especially in defrost mode.  I'm afraid I still may have a leak in the system.

I have taken it to a highly rated mechanic in Ft. Myers for the last 2 years.  They have cleaned the entire system, flushed and evacuated the system, replaced the compressor, dryer and connections and recharged the system twice with freon and luminescent leak detector.  The system works well on my way back to Iowa each spring but by summers end is low on freon.  My mechanic here in Des Moines, who has worked on my vehicles successfully for years can't seem to find the leak either.  Last week while I was there we found the 2 new fittings at the compressor replaced in Florida this past February were both sucking air as he tried to draw a vacuum. 

We the ends replaced and the vacuum holding we recharged  the system with freon and dye.  Since it was cold outside he charged it with 4 lbs. of freon.  We couldn't find any specs on the number of pound required.  He said that way I could add more when reaching a warmer climate much easier with a hose and can from the auto parts store.  Any one know how many pounds of freon a 40 ft.  Monaco Windsor requires??

We have not been able to access the lines running through the coaches center channel to the front of the coach.  I guess my next step is to try to remove the ceiling panels in the bay compartments to access the lines for testing.

Gary B.

2002 Monaco Windsor PBDD


Integrating Jake Brake and Cruise Control on Detroit Diesel
Frank McElroy

On the Cummins engine, all the settings for controlling the use of the Jake brake while in the cruise control mode are in the engine ECM. 

If you want the automatic use of the Jake brake while using the cruise control the technician will use the Cummins Insite software to enable the cruise control and engine brake interaction feature, set the MPH above the set cruise MPH setting to activate the low Jake brake (typically +5 MPH), set the MPH above the set cruise MPH setting to activate the high Jake brake (typically +8 MPH), and to enable the cruise control auto-resume once the Jake brake slows the coach down close to the cruise control set speed. 

The engine ECM will also command the transmission to downshift typically to second gear while using the Jake brake.  The transmission TCM will protect itself and only downshift when safe to do so without over revving the engine (<2700 RPM for an ISL).


Air leveling aux compressor air line routing
Old Dog

I can dig out a pn tomorrow. Not too hard to find. I searched by npt size (either 1/4" or 3/8", most are 1/4" but I up sized my compressor and line to the tank to 3/8") filter seperator then you have to id one that has the auto drain that way you're not crawling under all the time. The water seperator is real important in high humidity areas if parked for long periods.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
1 hour ago, vanwill52 said:

JD, you can still slide the outboard clamps toward the coach center, so the Watts lever is nearly vertical, not that it will make much, if any, difference in how it works.  You might have to notch the corner braces of the H-frame slightly to clear moving the outboard clamps inward.

The worst, most road-wild coach I ever drove was my first Monaco, a 1993 Dynasty with Kohler LPG generator, which did not roll out on a slide.  That was the coach that got me to delve into what was actually causing all the wandering...that is, AFTER I followed the "herd wisdom" that shocks could cure wandering.  The truth is that shocks do ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to prevent wandering...except between the ears of the person who just shelled out a small fortune for them.  And the shocks certainly did nothing for my 1993 Dynasty wandering.   All they did was make the ride harsher.

When I finished with it, that was the absolute BEST driving/handling coach I ever owned, including my present 2000 Dynasty.  The 1993 Dynasty never got a Watts link.  I had not thought of that at the time.   The 1993 Dynasty was the last year that X-bars could be installed FRONT and REAR.  I welded small tabs with a hole for a 1/2" bolt near both ends of the two lower trailing arms front and rear.  My X-bars were 1/2" diameter steel bars, threaded at each end for small Heim joints.  Yup, they worked perfectly. If you think about it, the X-bars perform in TENSION--when one bar is being "stretched" the other is lightly loaded in compression.  Even 1/4" X-bars might have worked on that 1993 Dynasty.

The idea of the Watts link came to me as I was trying to come up with something that would work for the front of coaches that had a generator in the way and prevented the use of X-bars in the front (ALL coaches 2004 and newer).  After the experience with the 1993 Dynasty, I decided X-bars were best for both front and rear, but simply could not be fitted to most post-1993 coaches.  The X-bars always acted at the extreme ends of the trailing arms, where they were best at preventing the H-frame from "squirming" under side loads.

But I never came up with a way I liked for putting X-bars on the front, hence the development of the Watts link application.  And yes, the farther the Watts link is located from the Panhard bar, the better it controls the H-frame.  But it makes a huge improvement, even if it is closer than optimal to the Panhard bar.  Another consideration in the Watts link development was to make something that did not require welding. 

On my 2000 Dynasty, I WELDED the Watts link assembly to attach to the FRONT crossmember of the H-frame, nearly triple the distance from the Panhard bar as it would have been had I mounted it overlaying the front jack mount.  That type installation is possible on most coaches, and surely performs better, but requires some extensive welding and extra steel tubing and flat bar and additional machining.  I have a fully equipped machine shop at my home.

Awesome! I wish I could think like that. My brain travels in different directions. I think my grandfather and you would have been fast friends, though his temper made him unbearable most times, a little Jack D and look out.

 

Anyway, got the safety steer off. Got the tie rod out and yes there was some slight play in the pitman arm. I had to push a bit, but there was 1/4”+. I have no end Wrench that would fit in between the box and plate. Remembered my trusty crescent wrench set and done. 
 

I tightened it back up, and went upstairs to the steering wheel, and still felt Ike it had a slight bit of play till you could feel the system engage. So I snugged it up another  1/4 turn on the adjustment screw and there is no play left to right. It moves the tires the moment you turn the steering wheel. 
 

Thanks all, odd to Havasu tomorrow and will report 

13A30956-BBDE-4B63-B9AB-32B6D7053948.jpeg

92D088D6-D6AD-4055-A622-A87A9C0CDC20.jpeg

1439910F-E90A-4FB9-8FF4-2EE9FCEF5A22.jpeg


Tire PSI Settings
Chargerman
5 hours ago, Paul A. said:

And, you can not increase the weight on the tag AND steer buy increasing the weight on the tag. I would like to see those weight transfers on a scale weight print out. 

This is what I was referring to. The fact is the opposite is true. Increase tag pressure and steer will get heavier while drive axle will unload. 
I can attest to this by my experience although as previously mentioned, I am not close to my scale readouts to show proof. 


Dash Air Compressor Always On?
Chuck B

4 pounds of R134.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


Electrical Drawings for 2003 HR Neptune
Skipjack

Anyone know where I can get the electrical drawings for a 2003 Holiday Rambler Neptune 34PDD (Monaco Coach)


Tire PSI Settings
Ivylog

Chargerman, I’ve decided it’s not worth the effort.


Electrical Drawings for 2003 HR Neptune
Steve P
27 minutes ago, Skipjack said:

Anyone know where I can get the electrical drawings for a 2003 Holiday Rambler Neptune 34PDD (Monaco Coach)

Try this   https://1drv.ms/u/s!Aqrv2TUdbV6xjjsvC4mqR3H0-iNu?e=SwYwTG

It's from YC1 on the iRV2.com forum.   It has a wealth of Monaco info.  It's a huge file with lots of folders.  


Tire PSI Settings
Chargerman
4 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

Chargerman, I’ve decided it’s not worth the effort.

Roger that. 


Electrical Drawings for 2003 HR Neptune
Skipjack

Wow, you aren't kidding

I will take a look

thanks

 


Dash AC/Heater motor access
DJR1SR

1999 Monaco Diplomat, dash AC/Heater how do you access the motor? My motor stopped working, the fuse are good, heat and AC work just no fan. 


air bag
lusgi

Front airbag for 1998 Windsor number W01 358 6905

I called Monaco and they were no help however they gave me the number for Beaver and they were able to locate part number. The number for beaver is 541-322-2184

 


Audio upgrades
nvrtoofast

I'm looking at upgrading the audio on my rig.The books say that it has the Aladdin Jr. setup. I was originally going to swap in a silver leaf set up since the Aladdin system is not working. I'm now thinking of putting together a home theater setup as a brain and then adding other elements as needed.

 

I already need to swap out the weldex because it only works when it wants to. The Aladdin system monitoring is nice to have but not a necessity. Would prefer to have proper audio and video when I want it. Currently it is just insufficient.

 

I'm looking for any schematics on the alladin system to plan how I will butcher it. uh... Integrate


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Frank McElroy

Van Great explanation of how the TRW vs Sheppard gearboxes work. From experience, I'm finding that my TRW gearbox needs adjustment about every 50,000 miles.  Once adjusted - wow - like driving my tag axle coach when it was new.  Your technical explanation is the best I've ever seen.  Thanks for sharing to the group.


Audio upgrades
DavidL

Is this about Audio (the title) or of Automation? or both?  Alladin Jr is automation, so is Silverleaf.  Not sure what Weldex is other than a company.

Alladin is a camera system...

So, I hope I can help, but what's the task?

And, the above systems noted - is that the parts you have already decided on?

What functionality are you looking to support?


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