Jump to content

Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
 Share

Recommended Posts

Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/582-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Dash Air Compressor Always On?
Ivylog
Idling a Cummins engine
willbo777
Idling a Cummins engine
Ivylog
Power Steering Pump
lake49068
Power Steering Pump
Dr4Film
Low Fuel? Really???
dandick66
Dynasty Docking Lights
TX Bella
Dynasty Docking Lights
Dr4Film
Dynasty Docking Lights
TX Bella
Dynasty Docking Lights
Upsman85
Dynasty Docking Lights
Dr4Film
Low Fuel? Really???
jacwjames
Idling a Cummins engine
cbr046
Power Steering Pump
cbr046
Dynasty Docking Lights
cbr046
Power Steering Pump
Steve P
Dash Air Compressor Always On?
trailmug
Dynasty Docking Lights
D.Ellison
Dynasty Docking Lights
TX Bella
Chinese exhaust manifold
mike_fluharty
Dynasty Docking Lights
D.Ellison
Chinese exhaust manifold
Dr4Film
Chinese exhaust manifold
JetAburner
Water Pump Question
Rodney
Dynasty Docking Lights
DrDon4u
Dynasty Docking Lights
TX Bella
Dynasty Docking Lights
D.Ellison
Onan 7500w Quiet Diesel Generator
Larry Laursen
Dash Air Compressor Always On?
Gary Cole
cruise control drop out 2005 Dynasty
Chuck B 2004 Windsor
Aluminum wheel source
Happycarz
Dash Air Compressor Always On?
Bob Jones
Dash Air Compressor Always On?
Gary Cole

New Posts

Bedroom Slide making strange sound when opening or closing
BigNick

What is the noise? Mine (bedroom slide) sounds like the chain jumping a tooth at the very end of retracting the room. I've looked at it. No broken teeth, works as advertised... Pulls  it all the way in pushes it all the way out but I have often wondered why it makes that sound.

( Sorry for the late edit) I wasn't in the right frame of mind during my original post.


Either clean or replace the interior windshield wrap around curtain for our '05 Beaver Patriot?
Bob Jones
16 hours ago, Neil Loveless said:

The original owner must have left the drivers side window open and it rained, we have a stain on the lined fabric curtain, I'm interested to know if these curtains can be cleaned or if there is a new replacement available?

Be sure to check for leaks around that driver's side window. My curtain has stains on the backside at that window and it was caused by a leaking window. Having said that, I have washed the curtains a few times. I just removed the hooks and fired them in the Splendide.  washer. Regular detergent didn't remove the stains but did clean the curtains up nicely. I probably should have sprayed them with something. 


Dash Air Compressor Always On?
Ivylog

On a system that works well, the compressor doesn’t run all the time as there is a frost sensor in the evaporator that keeps the fins from icing up by shutting off the 12V to the compressor. From my experience it shuts the compressor off more than necessary, not just on my MH. On my air conditioned equipment I pull 50% of the cap tube (sensor) out of the evaporator coils so the compressor doesn’t shut off as often. Instead of on for 30 seconds and off for 30, it’s on for 45 and off for 15 increasing the cooling substantially.

On my MHs I rarely have to run the generator/ACs as I completely bypass this sensor by plugging the two wires into a 15A fuse so the compressor does run all the time. Out West it usually takes 6+ hours before enough ice forms that the air volume starts to decrease while running the fan on high. In the East (higher humidity) I have to shut off the extra switch I added to the 12V compressor circuit every couple hours (for 15 minutes) to defrost the evaporator fins…you still get cold air as it melts the ice.

On my 08 Navigator I had one crimp at the fill port that was not crimped enough… tried a portable crimper  unsuccessfully and finally stopped the leak by adding 2 small exhaust C clamps over the crimped area after splitting the sleeve in 3 areas with a cutoff disk.


Idling a Cummins engine
willbo777

I believe you should get the coach to ride height before bringing in the slides.  That is what Monaco always said.  


Idling a Cummins engine
Ivylog
7 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

Woody - That's about the same as my procedure except that, I will do a final walkaround to verify that the coach is actually at ride height before leaving.

And make sure everything is ready to go, including the roof antennas.


Air leveling aux compressor air line routing
Jdw12345

Curious as to we’re everyone is getting parts, this is all new to me, I checked the power to the compressor last night and it has power, now trying to get the pump to come on…..

im assuming I’d have to level the coach then drain the air tanks and see what happens???

 

Thanks


Power Steering Pump
lake49068

Just purchased NAPA 1487...they did the crossover so should be easy to get.  Not sure how difficult it is to change, I just provide all filters to my servicing garage so there is no confusion or delays.

Adam


Air leveling aux compressor air line routing
willbo777

You can get DOT air line and connectors at NAPA.  Got the pump on Amazon.


Low Fuel? Really???
dandick66

I have a 2012 Diplomat with a 100 gallon tank.  Three years ago when returning from a trip the low fuel light came on.  I told myself I had plenty of fuel to make it home.  Well, about 1/2 mile from home I got a check engine light.   I continued and made it home.  The next day I went to move the coach and it stalled in the driveway.  The code was for low fuel pressure.  I added 5 gallons of fuel and primed the pump and all was well.  I drove to the fuel station and it took 98 gallons.   I will never push the limits again.

One lesson I learned is that now I level the coach when I’m refueling.  This makes a big difference in the amount of fuel you get in the tank.  I figure it was about 10-15 gallons. 
 

Dan D


Dynasty Docking Lights
TX Bella

Looking to replace the Docking lights (side lights) on my 2008 Monaco Dynasty. Couple of them are not working, would like to replace with LED hopefully brighter then the original install.

I have searched and not found the same oval shape. The distance between the screws is 5.25 inches.

Thanks for any help.

John

IMG_5088.jpg

IMG_5089.jpg


Dynasty Docking Lights
Dr4Film

John,

Your chances are slim to none in finding a LED light fixture to replace what you have. You will have better luck in searching for a LED bulb that fits into the socket of the existing fixture.


Dynasty Docking Lights
TX Bella

Two of the light fixtures are water damaged.

I have not been able to find anything(non-LED) that look similar that were not amber or red.

I thought like you said about replacing the bulbs , but need a couple new fixtures.

Thanks


Dynasty Docking Lights
Upsman85

I’ve been looking also but haven’t found a good replacement!! 


Dynasty Docking Lights
Dr4Film

Maybe try some of the major RV Salvage Yards.

https://rvparts.visonerv.com/ is one of them.


Low Fuel? Really???
jacwjames

I tried to rely on my fuel gauge when I first bought our coach, I even recalibrated it, which helped.  The only two readings that were correct is when it was full or empty, it was a guessing game anywhere in between.  The gauge would barely move for ~300 miles and then it would drop quickly.  I kept a written record of odometer and gallons to fill between fill ups and knew how many miles I could safely travel. 

I took the mystery out it by adding the Silverleaf VMSpc.  Besides being able to track the vitals on the engine and transmission I find that the trip meter with fuel usage to be extremely accurate.   I use this in conjunction with Gasbuddy to plan my fuel stops and try and save money. 


Idling a Cummins engine
cbr046
1 hour ago, Ivylog said:

And make sure everything is ready to go, including the roof antennas.

I put little post-it notes over the transmission selector - antenna, jacks, power cord, tie-down (cargo), etc.  I can't move until all the post-its are back in their place (console cup holder) and no longer blocking the transmission display.  Air pressure is pretty obvious (to me). 

- bob


Power Steering Pump
cbr046

I just bought a boat load of Donaldson filters from Diesel Equip Inc. 

https://www.dieselequipmentinc.com/

I can't comment on quickness (new customer, just placed the order) but quite the savings over Amazon.

They have a pretty good cross-reference system, too. 

- bob


Dynasty Docking Lights
cbr046

There's a procedure for converting standard headlights to projection HID by heating and prying apart the lens from the housing.  I'm wondering if that will work to pry apart the docking lights, clean them up and re-seal . . . . You'll need to do a search for DIY videos and decide if you're handy enough to try it. 

- bob

 


Power Steering Pump
Steve P
17 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

I just bought a boat load of Donaldson filters from Diesel Equip Inc. 

https://www.dieselequipmentinc.com/

I can't comment on quickness (new customer, just placed the order) but quite the savings over Amazon.

They have a pretty good cross-reference system, too. 

- bob

Thanks Bob.   They have the 84365A, but not the 91085G.  Headed for NAPA on my errands this morning...


Dash Air Compressor Always On?
trailmug

The one case where I'd disagree with running the compressor after summer is in OP's case of a known leaking system. I don't trust the binary switch to fail open, because I've seen my (reasonably new) switch still closed when the system was under vacuum.

Well, and on my Cadillac, where the short-cycling of the system during winter due to close proximity to the frost point caused a constantly wet and musty-smelling evap.


Dynasty Docking Lights
D.Ellison

Last year I found a led replacement for my 07 they fit perfectly and couldn't tell them from original,  I will see if i can find the info, i know i have the boxes they came in at home because I put the old ones in them so it might be this evening before I can get back to you.


Dynasty Docking Lights
TX Bella

1. I contacted the listed  salvage yard no luck, will continue others I find.

2. The 2 needing replacement might need to make a project and cleanup and reuse.

3. If you can find the info on the replacements you found that fit, that would be get.

Thanks for the response 


Chinese exhaust manifold
mike_fluharty

Doing LOF discovered a crack in my exhaust manifold. Having trouble finding Cummins OE parts however found Chinese sources. Not my first choice but I do need a new manifold. Has anyone used a Chinese exhaust manifold? If so did fit and finish seem up to snuff?

Thanks,

Mike

2003 Safari Zanzibar, ISL370


Dynasty Docking Lights
D.Ellison
Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
vanwill52

JD, although it is still possible, in nearly 200 coaches I've dealt with, I have never heard of a single instance in which alignment improved wandering one iota.  It's true that their are two alignment specs that could exacerbate (not CAUSE) wandering.  They are toe-in and caster.  When you have an alignment done on a solid front axle chassis of any kind, the only adjustment made 95% of the time is toe-in. 

If toe-in is too small, or toe-"out" actually exists, you can easily check it with a tape measure.  Jack each front wheel off the ground, rotate it while making a soapstone mark in the center of the tread area.  Use a tape measure and a helper to measure the distance between those lines at the back of the tires, and again at the front.  The front measurement should be slightly less than the rear.  That is "toe-in".  If there is "toe-OUT", that MIGHT cause some wandering.  You adjust it yourself with the RH/LH threaded relay rod that connects the two spindles.

The other alignment spec affecting tracking is caster.  If you had negative caster, that would present a tracking problem.  But caster is "built-in" to the mounting pads of the chassis where the axle attaches.  It is easy to see with the naked eye.  It can only be changed by adding tapered shims between the chassis mounting pads and the axle.  You might read multiple instances where someone deliberately increased caster (more positive) to cure a wandering condition, because they read about it in "Alignment 101" at trade school.  But, again, the improvement is much like the improvement in wandering from changing shocks--it exists between the ears of the person who went to the trouble and expense to do it.

The last alignment spec is camber.  Camber is "built-into" the axle.  It can only be changed by using powerful hydraulic equipment to BEND the axle to a new camber spec.  Your camber will never need adjustment unless the vehicle has been in a serious accident which bent the axle.  Most alignment shops are not equipped to change camber.  Josam's, probably the best large-vehicle alignment shop in the country, can change camber...but I bet they very seldom do it.

When you get an alignment done, you are generally paying $300 to set toe-in.

The bottom line is that there might be dozens of contributing factors that make a TINY improvement in wandering, but the basic problem is simply that the "platform" (H-frame) to which both your front and rear axles are attached is "squirming" around under your coach because it it not rigidly restrained from doing so.  The reason is the H-frame is attached to the chassis with long, spindly trailing arms with compliant bushings in each end, and the entire assembly is constrained from rotating under the coach with a single Panhard rod.  That is a near-geometric impossibility.  Had the chassis been originally designed with TWO Panhard rods on each H-frame, the wandering problem would never have existed.

The simple reason your coach wanders is that it is going where its wheels are pointed...NO OTHER REASON.  Force your wheels to stay pointed straight ahead and there is NO wandering.  NO shock absorber will do that.  NO steering stabilizer will do that.  To accomplish that on a Roadmaster chassis, you must stabilize the H-frames.  The best way is with X-bars, which accomplish what the missing SECOND Panhard rod WOULD have done.  When X-bars are not possible, the Watts link is the "second-best" alternative.  And just as would have happened with two Panhard rods, the further they are apart, the better they work.  Since my coach was not a terrible wanderer, when I installed my Watts link in the front, I went to great lengths to mount it as far from the Panhard bar as possible...to be sure I got a result that was not just "between my ears".  That required machining parts and welding in additional components.  My short 36' coach is a two-finger driver, even when being passed by a tractor-trailer...and so was my "cured" 1993 Dynasty, which originally felt as if you could not guide it in a straight line if your life depended on it.

JD, in your case, I can only suggest that you investigate mounting your front Watts link as far from the Panhard rod as possible.  One enterprising fellow on iRV2 actually added a second Panhard rod and it was, of course, successful.  That was my first thought when I realized I could not fit X-bars to my coach, but decided at the time it was beyond my capabilities at the time--I had no plasma cutter, and my welding equipment was not powerful enough.

If you are ever in the Southeast, I will be glad to look at your coach for you, although I stopped installing X-bars and Watts lengths years ago, as soon as I had proven to my satisfaction they were a solution.


Chinese exhaust manifold
Dr4Film

Mike,

I had mine replaced by the truck repair service center who does all the engine service on my coach. Don't know if it was Chinese, Mexican, or made in the USA.

The invoice doesn't say.

The final cost just for the exhaust manifold was Parts = $988.77 and labor was 6 hours = $591.  Add in about $102 for tax and the total ends up round $1681. This was significantly less than what Cummins Orlando had quoted me for the same identical job which was $4950.

This was done back in early 2020.


Chinese exhaust manifold
JetAburner

Can't say how they would hold up on our diesels. But I can tell you that a friend of mine with a 454 gas motorhome had to replace a manifold with the Chinese unit THREE times. In just a few trips the first two cracked. Keep in mind that under a hard pull, the diesel generates more egt than a gas engine. Try to get a genuine Cummins manifold if possible. 


Water Pump Question
Rodney

2000 Monaco dynasty water pump running when filling water tank will not fill if I unplug pump


Dynasty Docking Lights
DrDon4u
Quote

I replaced mine about 5 years ago, so I had a hard time remembering where I found them. They are made be ITC the are called FLASH MOUNT BOAT DOCKING lights.

Here are it is:  https://www.itc-marine.com/product/flush-mount-led-docking-light/ . Use these numbers to shop around for the best price. I paid $45 EACH, but I see they are much cheaper now a days. Just a heads up: after you replace them they will always stay slightly lighted because of the multiplex switch. Don't worry about it.  Good luck! Don

 


Dynasty Docking Lights
TX Bella

Seems like the correct dimensions will order a pair and let you know.

Amazon showed out of stock but can order from other sites

https://www.replacementboatparts.com/flushmountbuffwhiteLEDdocklight.aspx?gclid=CjwKCAjwn8SLBhAyEiwAHNTJbYIOt6AWzJ1dG9SU6vbxxBhPt0wvayTX18Be3zL6JoM7UyW92ZQC1hoCIH4QAvD_BwE

Thanks

 


Dynasty Docking Lights
D.Ellison

yes TX i seen that but i thought it would help get you on track,,,,,,,,,,,,their probably sitting on a boat out on the west coast 😂


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
55 minutes ago, vanwill52 said:

JD, although it is still possible, in nearly 200 coaches I've dealt with, I have never heard of a single instance in which alignment improved wandering one iota.  It's true that their are two alignment specs that could exacerbate (not CAUSE) wandering.  They are toe-in and caster.  When you have an alignment done on a solid front axle chassis of any kind, the only adjustment made 95% of the time is toe-in. 

If toe-in is too small, or toe-"out" actually exists, you can easily check it with a tape measure.  Jack each front wheel off the ground, rotate it while making a soapstone mark in the center of the tread area.  Use a tape measure and a helper to measure the distance between those lines at the back of the tires, and again at the front.  The front measurement should be slightly less than the rear.  That is "toe-in".  If there is "toe-OUT", that MIGHT cause some wandering.  You adjust it yourself with the RH/LH threaded relay rod that connects the two spindles.

The other alignment spec affecting tracking is caster.  If you had negative caster, that would present a tracking problem.  But caster is "built-in" to the mounting pads of the chassis where the axle attaches.  It is easy to see with the naked eye.  It can only be changed by adding tapered shims between the chassis mounting pads and the axle.  You might read multiple instances where someone deliberately increased caster (more positive) to cure a wandering condition, because they read about it in "Alignment 101" at trade school.  But, again, the improvement is much like the improvement in wandering from changing shocks--it exists between the ears of the person who went to the trouble and expense to do it.

The last alignment spec is camber.  Camber is "built-into" the axle.  It can only be changed by using powerful hydraulic equipment to BEND the axle to a new camber spec.  Your camber will never need adjustment unless the vehicle has been in a serious accident which bent the axle.  Most alignment shops are not equipped to change camber.  Josam's, probably the best large-vehicle alignment shop in the country, can change camber...but I bet they very seldom do it.

When you get an alignment done, you are generally paying $300 to set toe-in.

The bottom line is that there might be dozens of contributing factors that make a TINY improvement in wandering, but the basic problem is simply that the "platform" (H-frame) to which both your front and rear axles are attached is "squirming" around under your coach because it it not rigidly restrained from doing so.  The reason is the H-frame is attached to the chassis with long, spindly trailing arms with compliant bushings in each end, and the entire assembly is constrained from rotating under the coach with a single Panhard rod.  That is a near-geometric impossibility.  Had the chassis been originally designed with TWO Panhard rods on each H-frame, the wandering problem would never have existed.

The simple reason your coach wanders is that it is going where its wheels are pointed...NO OTHER REASON.  Force your wheels to stay pointed straight ahead and there is NO wandering.  NO shock absorber will do that.  NO steering stabilizer will do that.  To accomplish that on a Roadmaster chassis, you must stabilize the H-frames.  The best way is with X-bars, which accomplish what the missing SECOND Panhard rod WOULD have done.  When X-bars are not possible, the Watts link is the "second-best" alternative.  And just as would have happened with two Panhard rods, the further they are apart, the better they work.  Since my coach was not a terrible wanderer, when I installed my Watts link in the front, I went to great lengths to mount it as far from the Panhard bar as possible...to be sure I got a result that was not just "between my ears".  That required machining parts and welding in additional components.  My short 36' coach is a two-finger driver, even when being passed by a tractor-trailer...and so was my "cured" 1993 Dynasty, which originally felt as if you could not guide it in a straight line if your life depended on it.

JD, in your case, I can only suggest that you investigate mounting your front Watts link as far from the Panhard rod as possible.  One enterprising fellow on iRV2 actually added a second Panhard rod and it was, of course, successful.  That was my first thought when I realized I could not fit X-bars to my coach, but decided at the time it was beyond my capabilities at the time--I had no plasma cutter, and my welding equipment was not powerful enough.

If you are ever in the Southeast, I will be glad to look at your coach for you, although I stopped installing X-bars and Watts lengths years ago, as soon as I had proven to my satisfaction they were a solution.

Thanks Van, I appreciate you taking time to help. I’d love to venture over, not sure we’d make it! 
 

I will take a closer look at the front H-Frame and see if I can surmise what you are saying. There’s and air tank in front of the front axle as well as the hard mounted genset. 


Onan 7500w Quiet Diesel Generator
Larry Laursen

The most likely problem is the breaker on the generator is weak and tripping.  The other thing related to this is the way the generator is wired and the current reading you see.  There are two 120 circuits on the 7500 and 8000KW units with a common ground.  Set up such that the voltage between the hots is zero or some would say in-phase. The amp reading is the total amps being supplied by both circuits because the sensor is on the ground wire in the 120 volt distribution panel.  What you don't know is the current draw on a individual circuit.  It's possible nearly all of the 38 amps is being drawn on one circuit.  The inverter/charge circuit supplies power to the charger, microwave, and all the outlets in the front of the coach including the TV.  So if you have the charger going at full bulk charging and then turn on the microwave, a coffee pot, toaster and maybe a hair dryer, all the amperage is going through one of the breakers on the generator and can exceed the 30/32 amp breaker capacity.  In addition the front or rear A/C will be on the same 120 volt circuit in the distribution box.   You can determine what is on each side of the distribution box by looking at it.  The main breakers are in the center, everything to the left is on one circuit and everything to the right is on the other.  Thus, you need to careful to balance your loads.  The 02 Dip probably doesn't have an EMS but that doesn't help either because it is disabled when on generator.  

The circuit breaker can be changed out without removing the generator from the coach.  It is panel and has to removed by opening the access panel.  Not easy to get it in (based on personal experience) but do able.


Wanted - Base plate for 2011 Honda CR-V, tow bar and brake controller
jegall

I have a Roadmaster stowmaster 5000 tow bar you can have free it is complete with safety cables .

Jim Gallaway 

Owasso ,Ok

918-284-6071


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow

Crawled under and it looks like if I had the same framework fabed up similar to what the front Jack is like, then I could move the Watts to in front of the air tank and then the front half of the H frame would be stabilized instead of the rear. 
 

Because of the Arms, I don’t think I could get a pan hard rod to fit in there? 

 

4BC11169-8CD8-414F-BB96-B9E0AB300053.jpeg

990E0F3A-5D2A-4257-94E6-0D0CF6072BEA.jpeg

AD0E9A07-14C5-419A-943F-D7B73C05D750.jpeg

5F6A2450-23B9-4569-89F7-E0F68FABDE7F.jpeg


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow

Contacted a Fab Shop here in Havasu. Taking it in Monday morn to see about a simple frame to move the Watts to the Front 


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
vanwill52
2 minutes ago, JDCrow said:

Contacted a Fab Shop here in Havasu. Taking it in Monday morn to see about a simple frame to move the Watts to the Front 

Essentially, what I did was reinforce the 1-1/2" vertical supports for the rear of the genny with 1-1/2 x 3 rectangular tubing, then triangulated the assembly with a 3/8 x 5 flat bar connecting it all together.  the flat bar was the mount for the Watts pivot bar assembly.  Depending on your coach, there could be other ways to do it.


Keep battery fluid from boiling out while plugged in for winter?
Rich Cutler

I rely on my inverter charger system, but I check it monthly for water level.  I do add water the 6v wet cells after the season.   Seems like it always takes a gallon of distilled water to bring the four batteries back to full level.  Same during summer storage as well.  I just assumed that was standard as my previous Endeavor was the same.   I never let the plates get exposed.   I assume that would be the kiss of death for a battery.   


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Scott 61

I have a question on JD's recent picture is the 4th picture showing the panhard bar thank you


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
14 minutes ago, Scott 61 said:

I have a question on JD's recent picture is the 4th picture showing the panhard bar thank you

For me or Van? 


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
49 minutes ago, vanwill52 said:

Essentially, what I did was reinforce the 1-1/2" vertical supports for the rear of the genny with 1-1/2 x 3 rectangular tubing, then triangulated the assembly with a 3/8 x 5 flat bar connecting it all together.  the flat bar was the mount for the Watts pivot bar assembly.  Depending on your coach, there could be other ways to do it.

Ok perfect! Thanks for the cut list and mock up. I have to make this simple for the guy. I don’t think it should take him to much if he has a decent shop 


Dash Air Compressor Always On?
Gary Cole
11 hours ago, Bob Jones said:

oil coating the compressor seal

Thanks for the information Bob. Very interesting. Learned a lot. The only question I have is how long the oil will last on a seal under normal conditions. Based on, my understandably limited experience with classic cars and cars in storage, it seems to be a very long time.


cruise control drop out 2005 Dynasty
Chuck B 2004 Windsor

Where does the Aladdin get it's road speed from?  Locate your Aladdin Controller module.  If you have access to behind the dash gauges via a covered opening on top of the dash The controller should be inside the cover.  If not, the controller might be located in one of the overhead compartments.  The controller module number will be on the face of the module.  The engine data/power cable coming from the ECM will be plugged into the engine buss jack.  The wires in the cable consists of data plus labeled  J1587+, data minus labeled J1587- , 12 volt DC power, and Aladdin ground.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor

Make sure that none of the wire harness plugs are loose/not plugged in good on the controller.  


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Scott 61

I'm a novice just trying to figure this out where the panhard bar is on my rig thank you


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
6 minutes ago, Scott 61 said:

I'm a novice just trying to figure this out where the panhard bar is on my rig thank you

You have Roadmaster suspension? They still used it, and didn’t ditch it LOL 

Anyway, the pan hard is behind the Front axle, Body frame to H frame 


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
20 minutes ago, Scott 61 said:

I'm a novice just trying to figure this out where the panhard bar is on my rig thank you

Hey also, is your coach pre-emissions? It has an EGR? 


Aluminum wheel source
Happycarz

To the OP, you can call these folks to see if they have a match for you.

https://fleetwheel.com


Dash Air Compressor Always On?
Bob Jones
20 minutes ago, Gary Cole said:

Thanks for the information Bob. Very interesting. Learned a lot. The only question I have is how long the oil will last on a seal under normal conditions. Based on, my understandably limited experience with classic cars and cars in storage, it seems to be a very long time.

That depends on compressor/seal design. Some are worse than others. Also, wear on the seal (mileage) and amount of oil in the system come into play. If you have accurate enough equipment you can recover the charge, weigh it, and extrapolate the loss. It gets a bit complex because you have to be able to scrub the oil from the recovered refrigerant to get an accurate number. It's much easier, from a diagnosis standpoint, to do it by exclusion. If it does not leak under vacuum or pressure, where did the refrigerant go? At that point you suspect the seal. If you ask the customer if the vehicle sat for a period of time, 9 times out of 10 they will tell you they were out of the country on a trip or something like that. This is why you *have* to have the proper gear. When doing diagnosis by exclusion you have to know, 100%, that you have excluded *everything* else. 

Just because the AC works on an old vehicle that sat doesn't mean the charge is not low.....if the charge is low it will not carry the oil through the system as effectively. In addition, the oil can be low as it tends to leak out with the refrigerant. This is why you sometimes see an oily trace with dirt stuck to it around a leak. If a system is low on refrigerant and oil then you are starving the compressor and damage/early failure is easily possible. 

As the compressor wears it will tend to send metallic material through the system...... When you pull the orifice tube out of a CCOT system you will often see metallic material on the screen. That can be used as a gage as to whether a compressor should be replaced. When a compressor fails catastrophically it will send enough metallic material through the system to plug a modern parallel flow condenser. If you don't replace it the material will eventually break loose, get sucked into the new compressor, and damage that one....So there is a lot to it. AC repairs, proper ones, tend to be expensive. My motto was do it once and do it right. If a person could not afford to do that, I weeded them out right over the phone and they were grateful because they didn't waste any money chasing something they could not afford. A lot of people think you can just buy a 'death can' and charge it back up. The system has to have integrity and the correct charge in order for the oil to lubricate the compressor. Other wise you are just damaging the compressor by starving it for oil as the system leaks out again. 

AC repairs are generally not cumulative. The industry stats when I was doing it was a 50% failure rate. This means the customer loses their investment if it's not done right the first time. That's not 100% accurate in all circumstances but it's pretty close. You can put an inline filter on the suction line going to the compressor to catch debris. What is interesting is that I deviated from the established norm and publicly stated it's better to put it on the discharge line if there has not been a compressor failure. The idea being that as the compressor wears, or if it explodes, the debris will be stopped on the discharge side before it reaches the rest of the system. I took a lot of flack for that 'heresy' back in the day. 

Oil level in the system is the real challenge. There is no accurate way to determine how much oil is in the system especially when it's an old vehicle that may have been serviced before. There are rules of thumb, if replacing the condenser add this much, etc. But the only way to really determine oil level is to flush the entire system with liquid refrigerant and then scrub the recovered oil from that refrigerant flush. GM specified that only refrigerant could be used to flush a system, nothing else. If a person can flush the entire system with liquid refrigerant than you know it has no oil other than what is left in the compressor, because it cannot be flushed in a closed loop. So you still have to take the compressor off and drain it into graduated cylinder to see what was actually there....

Proper MVAC AC is tough and not many shops can do it. If you think about the labor time involved in what I've been describing it gets expensive fast. Up here the average low bill was $500. If a customer got an effective repair for that, they were laughing. $1,500 was the common price point, almost all repairs fell into that bracket. $3,500 was usually the top end. At that point it was more/less complete system replacement. Replacing the evaporator alone in a Volvo required removing the entire front interior including seats, console and entire dash. Suburbans with rear air have lines from front to rear that tend to corrode (road salt) and the rear evaporator would often leak. It was not uncommon to have to do both evaporators and the lines from front to rear plus the regular under the hood work. 

Can't tell you how many people had their AC done multiple times with the result being a lighter pocket and warm air. I live in a relatively affluent area so my customers were happy that they finally found someone that could do it once, and do it right, warranty it, and then be done with it. And that's in Canada, where it's a relatively cool climate for the brunt of the year. I can't even imagine what it's like in Arizona. I do know that my peers down there told me you can get 3rd degree burns if you touch the dashboard in your car if it's been sitting in the parking lot at the mall for the afternoon. One of my peers was a cooling system design engineer for one of the big three and he told me with every new model they took it to death valley to verify the cooling system and the AC system. Up here it's hard to image that AC can be essential. 

 

 


Dash Air Compressor Always On?
Gary Cole

I purchased a very low mileage 1996 300ZX, last year sold in US, at auction with what had clearly been multiple attempts to repair a non operating AC. When I called the local Nissan dealer to inquire about repairing the system he asked if I had a blank check.


Dash Air Compressor Always On?
Bob Jones

It's very good of them to warn you. This is what I did to everyone over the phone and I saved them from going down a path they didn't want to/could not afford to go down. I turned away at least 60% of potential clients. But here's the thing, I wasted no time and had only very happy customers that had money and just wanted it done right. They also have more than one car, so they could leave it at my leisure. They told all their friends, and next thing you know, they would cut me off in mid speech and say just do it, don't care about the price (within reason). In fact, my sales method probably caused them to tell their friends!

If you still have the Nissan, and want to repair it, consider buying some of your own gear and doing it yourself. Typically, you can buy a lot of the equipment for less than the repair if you are so inclined. Two days ago I scored a brand new H10PM off ebay for $99 USD ($200 CAD shipped). This was unusual but it can be done. O-rings are cheap. Jap cars are usually well designed. Could easily be o-rings or what have you. If it's low mileage compressor should be fine. If it's never been in a front end accident the condenser is probably OK. In the US parts are cheap (Arizona Mobile Air). You might be surprised but it's a lot of fun (usually) and it's very rewarding doing something well that 50% of the people can't do. Time is the biggest thing. Not being on the clock. 


Power Steering Pump
Gary 05 AMB DST
10 hours ago, lake49068 said:

Just purchased NAPA 1487...they did the crossover so should be easy to get.  Not sure how difficult it is to change, I just provide all filters to my servicing garage so there is no confusion or delays.

Adam

Adam, is your MH built by Navistar? I see that they bought Monaco in 2009.

Gary 05 AMB DST


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Jim McFarland

In my opinion, my safety Steer would be one if the last things I would remove from my coach. It works on side winds and trucks coming by you and if you should have a blow out. Just my thoughts. 

Jim

2009 Monaco 41 DFT


Insurance
Gary 05 AMB DST

Has anyone used Good Sam National General Insurance? They seem easy to set up a policy.

Has anyone used Geico?


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
32 minutes ago, Jim McFarland said:

In my opinion, my safety Steer would be one if the last things I would remove from my coach. It works on side winds and trucks coming by you and if you should have a blow out. Just my thoughts. 

Jim

2009 Monaco 41 DFT

It will most likely go back on. I am really just trying to figure out what does what. If the fab shop can weld in a structure to move the Watts forward of the axle, I’ll have the H frame pinned on both front and back. Well double on back as the sway bar just got delivered. 

8D393142-F13E-44E9-9462-FBCB56936A62.jpeg


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Cubflyer

5F6A2450-23B9-4569-89F7-E0F68FABDE7F.jpe

 

JD,.... and Van,

Am I seeing shims where your axle mounts to the H frame in this photo? or is it an optical illusion? and it looks thicker in the front than the rear....??  Wouldn't that stand the kingpin more vertical? and take some caster out?... again, it might be an optical illusion.... the more positive or negative caster from perpendicular (to the ground) the harder it is to make the wheel take a new direction.... zero caster angle will be pretty squirrelly....  Something to check.

JD your last driving report, seemed to me to indicate that the coach did not want to go straight even without and 'outside' influences... ie: wind, passing trucks, rough terrain..... I would not expect a sway bar to help if the coach will not track straight (without steering input).  

Van I totally agree that the watts link is best mounted opposite the axle from the panhard rod... unfortunately the one I bought was not designed to fit in the front of the front axle and I mounted it to the rear, it still did wonders for my wondering coach.  I was considering installing it on the front, but like you said, it takes some modifications to make it fit up there.

 

 


Sliding door won't stay open and locked
daveyjo

Well, I finally got to take a picture of the issue.  I was wrong about something hanging down and preventing the door from opening fully.  See attached photo.  What the issue appears to be is that the screws holding the track to the ceiling are hitting on the roller mechanisms somehow and blocking the door from sliding/rolling.  I tightened the screws I could reach, moved a block of wood that kept both sliding doors stopping at the middle, and moved the problem door so it was right in the middle of the doorway.  Now I can't get the door back in it's compartment.  The sliding mechanism holding the door to the track appears to have some adjustment level but I haven't been able to position it to allow the door to move.  Does anyone know what the mechanisms are called?  I was hoping I could google the mechanism and see some instructions for it
.  Or better yet, does anyone on the forum know how to fix the door slider?

sliding door mechanism.jpg

door and mechanism.jpg

door top and mechanism 1.jpg

door top and mechanism 2.jpg

DSC03759.JPG

DSC03760.JPG

DSC03761.JPG


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
7 minutes ago, Cubflyer said:

5F6A2450-23B9-4569-89F7-E0F68FABDE7F.jpe

 

JD,.... and Van,

Am I seeing shims where your axle mounts to the H frame in this photo? or is it an optical illusion? and it looks thicker in the front than the rear....??  Wouldn't that stand the kingpin more vertical? and take some caster out?... again, it might be an optical illusion.... the more positive or negative caster from perpendicular (to the ground) the harder it is to make the wheel take a new direction.... zero caster angle will be pretty squirrelly....  Something to check.

JD your last driving report, seemed to me to indicate that the coach did not want to go straight even without and 'outside' influences... ie: wind, passing trucks, rough terrain..... I would not expect a sway bar to help if the coach will not track straight (without steering input).  

Van I totally agree that the watts link is best mounted opposite the axle from the panhard rod... unfortunately the one I bought was not designed to fit in the front of the front axle and I mounted it to the rear, it still did wonders for my wondering coach.  I was considering installing it on the front, but like you said, it takes some modifications to make it fit up there.

 

 


let me go look at the axle for shims


Full Body Paint
dkelly

Greetings all and thank.you for sharing valuable information related to Monaco RVs.

I am seeking vendors that do full body painting.  I had planned to have my 2003 Diplomat 40" painted in Elkhart, IN by Mike Williams; however, the price has increased from 15000.00 to 22000.00.  Seems extremely huge price increase; therefore, I am seeking alternative vendors...maybe closer to South Carolina.

Thank you for your input.

 

Darryl

2003 Diplomat 40"


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Cubflyer

JD,

When I mounted my front sway bar, per the instructions, the way the upper (frame) mounts were designed to go around the frame cross member (using long bolts and a top plate) it made the links angle/lean to the rear, not be straight up and down.  I added (by welding) a piece of 3" x 1" x 3/16" angle iron across between the main frames just forward of the original cross member and mounted the bracket with one bolt through each cross member.  This made the links vertical and used short bolts instead of long bolts.   The cross member has cut outs for wiring and such and really can not support the clamping action of those long bolts.

I will send photos when I get back near my coach....next week.

Ken


Full Body Paint
Cubflyer

Have you thought about a wrap?   I have, but have not looked into it... only so many hours in a day..... Saw a Motorhome that had a wrap supporting a business at a campground in Denver last summer.. looked good far away and up close.


The Trip from Hell
just_john1

Started on the 12th of October. We left Missoula, MT. Tooling down663495414_Blowout2.JPG.c79c20a1ad5266922e7e636ae17ac052.JPG the road and blew the drivers front tire.

Kept it on the road and boy was it noise. Only real damage was a front quarter nocked loose and a bent exhaust pipe on the generator. After a 6 hour wait, we got 2 new Michelin tires (from over 100 mi away). After spending a week near Seattle, we were headed to Portland to visit our grand daughter. About a 125 mi. we were climbing a slight grade and she just shut down. Thanks to Coach Net (again there arranged the tire change). We got towed to the Cummings dealership.  Great people, they started on it first thing in the morning. Apparently the starter had a short in it. This morning I get THE call. They figure the turbo shaft  broke and blew the engine. Now we are stuck in Everett, WA with a big boat anchor. Anyone know of a place around Seattle that would like to have it. As costly as the diagnosis was the people at Cummins Sales and Service in Everett, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the.  


Full Body Paint
nvrtoofast

It does seem like a significant jump. However, body working supplies are up big time. Since they are specifically petroleum based chemicals. The oil crunch is carrying over to other areas and increasing price.

 


Full Body Paint
dkelly

I have not thought about a wrap....I will r3search the option!

 

Thanks 

Darryl 


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
11 minutes ago, Cubflyer said:

JD,

When I mounted my front sway bar, per the instructions, the way the upper (frame) mounts were designed to go around the frame cross member (using long bolts and a top plate) it made the links angle/lean to the rear, not be straight up and down.  I added (by welding) a piece of 3" x 1" x 3/16" angle iron across between the main frames just forward of the original cross member and mounted the bracket with one bolt through each cross member.  This made the links vertical and used short bolts instead of long bolts.   The cross member has cut outs for wiring and such and really can not support the clamping action of those long bolts.

I will send photos when I get back near my coach....next week.

Ken

Ok thanks

BTW the axle mounts are flat, no shims or tapering 

A02F0B61-1A92-4F74-BB63-FE662DBB0E74.jpeg

D72C8C7F-FF26-47AF-9618-653D1469B14B.jpeg

D4260547-FE96-4D0B-A89A-A3C7C26015D9.jpeg

773B9246-7347-4983-8420-5536227A67B1.jpeg


Full Body Paint
nvrtoofast

Car wraps run 1K to 5K depending. You can likely get one for around 10K. I would check Charleston, Atlanta and Charlotte areas.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Happycarz

JD, you might want to back off the steering box adjustment screw just a bit.  If too tight, it will have the internal gears in a constant bind when in the centered position.  Also, when snugging down the jam nut, the adjustment screw tends to rotate with it, maybe causing an overly tight condition.  Then again, you may have it spot on. Dunno.
Once I have the lash set, I always hold the adjust screw in position as I tighten the jam nut. 
As a side note, I use Kroil as my penetrating oil to make sure that both the adjusting screw moves freely with my fingers in the gearbox, and the jam nut can be spun on the adjustment screw with my fingers.

The ancient Miller Tools No. 199's are still available on eBay for $10-15 and sure help In tight quarters.

 

F8FA9942-E737-4CD2-A626-09C8456CC5F0.jpeg


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
3 minutes ago, Happycarz said:

JD, you might want to back off the steering box adjustment screw just a bit.  If too tight, it will have the internal gears in a constant bind when in the centered position.  Also, when snugging down the jam nut, the adjustment screw tends to rotate with it, maybe causing an overly tight condition.  Then again, you may have it spot on. Dunno.
Once I have the lash set, I always hold the adjust screw in position as I tighten the jam nut. 
As a side note, I use Kroil as my penetrating oil to make sure that both the adjusting screw moves freely with my fingers in the gearbox, and the jam nut can be spun on the adjustment screw with my fingers.

The ancient Miller Tools No. 199's are still available on eBay for $10-15 and sure help In tight quarters.

 

F8FA9942-E737-4CD2-A626-09C8456CC5F0.jpeg

Thanks! kroil is great stuff for sure. There is still just a smidge Of play in the wheel,  but if it went straight, I’d live with it


Beltline Trim
RBRODDER

I have a 04 HR Neptune and the PO screwed through the beltline trim due to roof separation. I plan on fixing it correctly and would like to replace the beltline trim in the process.  Does anyone know the part number for the trim? Thanks 


Full Body Paint
BobSchmeck

Wraps that I have inquired about thay say have a 5yr lifespan depending on how the coach is stored & the environment you live in. Then they need to be removed.  

We just reserved a spot to get our coach painted in Los Algodones Mexico in February. Its a 38ft Monaco diplomat Full body paint 4 colors.  $14G. It will take 5 to 8 weeks to complete.  They have been in business 45 years. In the states we have been quoted 28g & up. 


Beltline Trim
BobSchmeck

Do you have a aluminum roof? 

Would need to see a picture of the trim. To know if it's the same as on my coach.  They used a number of different styles.  

If its the same as on our Diplomat I  can tell you how to fix it also.  


The Trip from Hell
IlliniCathy

So sorry for your bad luck.  It truly does sound like the trip from hell.


Integrating Jake Brake and Cruise Control on Detroit Diesel
georgecederholm
On 10/20/2021 at 6:35 AM, SigPIlot said:

Not sure if it requires a "configuration" having never had one done, but my DD60 will automatically engage when over speeding the cruise control setting. Can't remember what the criteria is but probably around 5-10 mph. I'll have to check next time I find a hill worthy of speed generation (lol). Out west lots of hills. not so much in FL.

Hugh,

Thanks for confirming that what I'm looking for may be possible. I will pursue this with my local DD/Allison shop over the winter.

On 10/20/2021 at 1:21 PM, willbo777 said:

Just to add another two cents.  On our DD Series 60 on cruise, going downhill it will go as fast as you let it, but with Vorad if there is a vehicle in front of you, it will engage the Jake.

Bill B2,

Thanks; that's exactly how ours works now. I'm essentially looking to keep that but add the same effect based on MPH over the cruise setting. 


Ignition switch
Xlr8ting1

Hello all,

  I looked almost everywhere for a replacement ignition switch for our 2009 Dynasty. It looks to be a die cast Pollak body that is a 3 position,

4 incorporated, 12 gauge or similar leads, that are a foot to a foot and a half long, and uses the large round head Ilco P1795 type key. Keys I can find.  Ignition switch not so easy. Looked at Pollak's web site and couldn't find anything with leads. Anyone have an idea for a direct  replacement or something close?


The Trip from Hell
BobSchmeck

Dang! That's enough to make a preacher cuss!

Never heard of a turbo destroying a whole engine before. But with that being said there a lot of things that I'm learning lately.  

 


The Trip from Hell
mmartinhouse

So sorry. Yikes

 


The Trip from Hell
just_john1

Apparently when it goes it keeps going for a bit allowing air into the engine. The cylinders fill with fuel causing a thing called hydraulics, screwing up the top end and valves.


Either clean or replace the interior windshield wrap around curtain for our '05 Beaver Patriot?
IlliniCathy

I replaced curtains in our coach.  I ordered two 45 x 96 panels from amazon for about $25.  The track ours hung on had a small hook.  The original curtains had a woven strip on the top with loops that went over the hooks.  I bought very small binder clips and attached them to the long side of the curtain panels and out the “handles”of the binder clip over the hook. It worked great, looked great and cost about $30.


Beltline Trim
RBRODDER

Thanks Bob, I will try to get a picture of it tomorrow. 


The Trip from Hell
BobSchmeck
26 minutes ago, just_john1 said:

Apparently when it goes it keeps going for a bit allowing air into the engine. The cylinders fill with fuel causing a thing called hydraulics, screwing up the top end and valves.

At this time James 1:2 isn't a lot of help. 

You have some hard decisions to make in the next few days. Hope you take a few days to explore all options. Rebuild, there's a lot of good engines out there from fire or wrecked coaches. Other shops. 

So sorry. 


Beltline Trim
David White

We have, what I consider,  an expert on beltlines here who often helps and comments on this group.  He is ChrisT and usually posts under the “throgmartin” heading.  He operates TalinRV in FL and can help you with the beltline and suggestions for repairs.  I think he sells the materials for repairs, and if you are near there, you’ll find no better shop to do the repairs. Check their website and call.


Ignition switch
Chuck B 2004 Windsor

Check a NAPA auto parts dealer.  Chuck B 2004 Windsor


The Trip from Hell
Flyinhy
29 minutes ago, BobSchmeck said:

At this time James 1:2 isn't a lot of help. 

You have some hard decisions to make in the next few days. Hope you take a few days to explore all options. Rebuild, there's a lot of good engines out there from fire or wrecked coaches. Other shops. 

So 

I agree. I've used adelmans.com for replacement engines before. They're high but beats the *ell out of labor costs for an inframe rebuild........3000.00 for a good used engine. 


Keep battery fluid from boiling out while plugged in for winter?
Chargerman
8 hours ago, Rich Cutler said:

I rely on my inverter charger system, but I check it monthly for water level.  I do add water the 6v wet cells after the season.   Seems like it always takes a gallon of distilled water to bring the four batteries back to full level.  Same during summer storage as well.  I just assumed that was standard as my previous Endeavor was the same.   I never let the plates get exposed.   I assume that would be the kiss of death for a battery.   

I’m surprised to read that you’re batteries require so much water. Do you see any signs of the batteries boiling over? I used to see this and ended up finding that my charge rate was set too high. After adjusting it my batteries and the compartment stay clean and my battery water consumption has gone WAY down. 


Chinese exhaust manifold
Martinvz

Have you checked to see if Banks has a manifold that will fit?


Dynasty Docking Lights
Jdw12345
Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Cubflyer

JD,

This photo shows my modified mounting of the upper sway bar link brackets.  Since the sway bar was installed first, the watts link that I put on later is not in the photo.  Up in the photo is aft on the coach.  The added angle iron piece is the lower (forward) piece.  It brings the mount point forward and the links to a 90 degree angle to the sway bar at normal ride height.  Maybe my coach was unique but the as designed mounting was terrible. 2133048110_IMG_swayBarMT.thumb.jpg.9f528333143a63910dbddb0a9556bf7d.jpg

 


Power Steering Pump
lake49068

Yup, even have a sticker by the entry door to prove it!  Don't think they understood the market and their MaxForce non-def engine was a mini disaster.

Adam

 


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
50 minutes ago, Cubflyer said:

JD,

This photo shows my modified mounting of the upper sway bar link brackets.  Since the sway bar was installed first, the watts link that I put on later is not in the photo.  Up in the photo is aft on the coach.  The added angle iron piece is the lower (forward) piece.  It brings the mount point forward and the links to a 90 degree angle to the sway bar at normal ride height.  Maybe my coach was unique but the as designed mounting was terrible. 2133048110_IMG_swayBarMT.thumb.jpg.9f528333143a63910dbddb0a9556bf7d.jpg

 

Thanks! Is your bar in front or behind the axle? I assume behind as you said Watts isn’t in picture. Do you have 4 Jack leveling? Mine is 3 Jack and would be dead center in your pic. 


Keep battery fluid from boiling out while plugged in for winter?
Rich Cutler

Steven,

How do you adjust the charge rate.  It does not take long after returning from a trip to reach float.   The inverter appears  to operate properly  and I have all loads off during storage including the inverter.  The generator normally runs during travel for the AC units.   Therefore, no battery load and they last a minimum of 6 years.  Biggest load is boondocks at convention when the refrigerator,  rf18, runs off the inverter.


To unsubscribe *|member_name|* click here:https://www.monacoers.org/settings/?area=newsletters

We welcome your comments and suggestions for our newsletter.  Please send comments to newsletter@monacoers.org 

Copyright © 2020 Monacoers, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...