Jump to content

Sharp Microwave being replaced


Steven P

Recommended Posts

Update:  see several posts down for the outcome.  

 

I noticed my microwave had no power so I checked the cord and outlet.  See pics.  So I have a new outlet ordered from ebay and a replacement microwave from Sharp.  Mine is a Sharp r1874 from 2005 Andis a convection oven too. Per recommendations on this site, I called Sharp and they were very helpful. They said there are 2 models that should swap out w no issues.  R1874ty and R1881LSY. The r1874ty is more like what I have, but hard to find currently.  $1500 on Amazon, $629 plus $100 shipping on another site.  So I'm getting the r1881lsy from Sharp $599 w free shipping.  

I haven't pulled the outlet out of the wall yet, but plan to tomorrow and wirenut it off til the replacement comes. 

20211023_104938.jpg

20211023_104931.jpg

Edited by Steven P
Link to comment
Share on other sites

are you replacing the microwave because it has a bad cord?

Or because you want a new microwave?

Of course the only thing that is required is to replace the plug end on the existing cord and replace the junky outlets RVs are made with with a solid Leviton one from Home Depot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure what others experiences are here, but as DavidL said... a bad outlet/plug with a loose connection can overheat and look just like what your photos show... the appliance may have nothing wrong with it.   I would replace the plug and see what kind of amps the unit is drawing before I replaced the 'big' part (microwave)

Ken 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have no power in the Microwave it could be the fuses inside the Microwave. There are one or two special Microwave fuses inside that you can buy from Home Depot and change yourself. You could also change the plug.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 As others have strongly recommended, replace duplex AND outlet box with residential quality ones.

The Sharp Microwave model R1881LSY appears to be an excellent choice. Same size, etc. Hopefully mounts to the back wall the same as the 1874T model.

Don't know if you have been using your microwave powered from the Inverter but that is something I have never done and never recommend doing. I always start the generator when using high powered devices.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting info to wake up to.  I don't think the microwave is bad.  When I wiggled the plug it came back on. I guess I figured the microwave was part of the issue and not so much the outlet.  Also, I thought Monaco used these single plugs here for a reason and didn't realize I could put a duplex in.  I will gladly run to HD today and get a duplex and a new cord end.  I'd rather do that.  For checking the amps, I should look for a device that plugs into the outlet and then plug the microwave into it?  I have a clamp on ammeter, but I'll either need to pull part of the cord cover off or get to the inside of the microwave so that plug in device seems easier.  

Yes, wr have run it off the inverter before. It's been a while though. 

Thank you all. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can probably get one of those splitters to use for your clamp meter, or before you close up the new receptacle install and if there is room maybe you can get the meter on it then. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any chance that your Dip has an amp meter built into your info center?

If so observe the amp draw and then observe the amp draw while the Mwave is running...

Easy Peasy

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Grampy OG said:

Any chance that your Dip has an amp meter built into your info center?

If so observe the amp draw and then observe the amp draw while the Mwave is running...

Easy Peasy

 

My ampmeter only shows amps used if on genny or maybe inverter,  not while plugged into 50a.

43 minutes ago, OhReally said:

Also looks like you might have some water infiltration. I would do a good inspection for water stains around the old receptacle.

-Jamie

I'll look more. Definite corrosion in the receptacle, but I'm not seeing other signs.  I wonder how much is due to good old condensation. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

29 minutes ago, Steven P said:

My ampmeter only shows amps used if on genny or maybe inverter,  not while plugged into 50a.

I'll look more. Definite corrosion in the receptacle, but I'm not seeing other signs.  I wonder how much is due to good old condensation. 

So start the genny or inverter and check amps and then run the mwave. same amp draw regardless of power source. a solid mwave on HIGH should be around 12 amps a/c  give or take.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, I wanna thank you guys.  Microwave is back up and running.  Added a new plug to it, removed the old outlet,  installed an old work, shallow box and a 20a heavy duty receptacle.  I only measured 7.6A on the microwave on high and measured it across the hot and neutral before I put the plug cover on. Hardest part of this is trying to make sure I canceled the microwave I ordered from Sharp. Their seems to be a little language barrier when talking with some of their help desk.  🤔 

I'm hoping this was the source of my gfci in the bathroom tripping.  

20211024_101425.jpg

20211024_125749.jpg

20211024_131402.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

good job.  Those original receptacles are garbage.  I would consider replacing all of them  because if they haven't melted or have loose connections, they will.

The single outlet was so you don't plug something else in and overtax the circuit.  The microwave probably pulls almost what the circuit is rated for so anything else on the same will over tax the circuit.  Plug a childproof cover on the unused outlet as a reminder to all to not use that outlet for anything.  Too easy for someone to plug a toaster into it with the plan to not use both at the same time, and then for someone to flip on the microwave while you are making some toast and there goes the breaker / wire.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

19 hours ago, thomasgibbens said:

There’s a fuse in the unit under the cover that likely blew. Might check it. 

Thank you,  but it all works properly now after the changes above. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Those "stab in" connectors are garbage, as you can see.  ALWAYS wrap the wire around the screw terminals.  You can get away with stabs on very low amperage devices, but not a 20 amp circuit.  AND, never us the device as a splice, pig tail the wires that go to the device.  Only a GFCI receptacle can be a splice since that's how  it's designed for down stream protection, but again, wrap the wire around the screws or under the screw wire grips.

Woody Miller

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/24/2021 at 2:23 PM, Steven P said:

20211024_101425.jpg

 

 

 

10 hours ago, woodylmiller said:

Those "stab in" connectors are garbage, as you can see.  . . . .

When I run a space heater from the living room outlet after an hour or so I'll get a faint plastic burning smell.  Never would I ever imagine an engineer would call this a "good" way to make a high current connection.  I'll bet the whole coach is this way. 

- bob

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On a previous Class C we had, I ran into the same problem. Those stab connections are garbage! I use old work boxes and commercial grade 20 amp receptacles to replace them. At least in the current coach there was room to do things right. The "C" was real challenge.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...