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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/585-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

Full Body Paint
dl_racing427
Full Body Paint
m.demeere
Chinese exhaust manifold
m.demeere
Sharp Microwave being replaced
Dr4Film
Sharp Microwave being replaced
Gary 05 AMB DST
Chinese exhaust manifold
Dr4Film
Chinese exhaust manifold
m.demeere
Battery Desulfurization
Jdw12345
Anyone know what this is?
redstickbill
Battery Desulfurization
Ivylog
Sharp Microwave being replaced
Steven P
The Trip from Hell
just_john1
Starter Won't Engage
bandmmorris
Sharp Microwave being replaced
tmw188
The Trip from Hell
Mocephus
The Trip from Hell
just_john1
Sharp Microwave being replaced
Grampy OG
The Trip from Hell
Ivylog
2215 fault code
BradHend
Starter Won't Engage
bandmmorris
2215 fault code
Flyinhy
2215 fault code
jacwjames
Starter Won't Engage
klcdenver
Sharp Microwave being replaced
OhReally
Starter Won't Engage
bandmmorris
Deep Cell Battery Replacement
RoadTripper2084
The Trip from Hell
BobSchmeck
2215 fault code
BradHend
Starter Won't Engage
Trinidaddave
Starter Won't Engage
FishAR
Full Body Paint
Joe E.
Starter Won't Engage
bandmmorris
2215 fault code
jacwjames
Full Body Paint
BobSchmeck
Sharp Microwave being replaced
Steven P
Battery Desulfurization
BobSchmeck
Battery Desulfurization
jacwjames
The Trip from Hell
just_john1
Starter Won't Engage
FishAR
Battery Desulfurization
Tom Wallis
Sharp Microwave being replaced
Grampy OG
Starter Won't Engage
Ray Davis
Beltline Trim
Larry Laursen
Starter Won't Engage
Jim Byrd
The Trip from Hell
Mel S - '96 Safari
Battery Desulfurization
RoadTripper2084

New Posts

Full Body Paint
dl_racing427
9 hours ago, StellaTariche said:

I also look into wrapping my 2000 Diplomat.  Painted it instead.

BUT, had I decided to wrap it, here was my first choice of designs:

I imagined all the kids in the heavily wooded state parks coming up on this at dusk - lotsa therapy 🙂

 - John

snake wrap - 1.jpg

That's one hell of a visual effect. 
People's reactions would be awesome to watch. LMAO

Wraps do have a very limited lifespan, especially when stored outdoors.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
dl_racing427

Van,

I'd be very interested in seeing your solution for using X-Bars on both ends of the pre-94 Roadmaster chassis.
My 93 Dynasty could use some help in this dept.

PS: Thanks for being safe. 😀


Full Body Paint
m.demeere

http://www.creativecoach.com/  Give them a shout they’ve always have done excellent work and we’re always fair.


Chinese exhaust manifold
m.demeere
On 10/21/2021 at 10:52 AM, Dr4Film said:

Mike,

I had mine replaced by the truck repair service center who does all the engine service on my coach. Don't know if it was Chinese, Mexican, or made in the USA.

The invoice doesn't say.

The final cost just for the exhaust manifold was Parts = $988.77 and labor was 6 hours = $591.  Add in about $102 for tax and the total ends up round $1681. This was significantly less than what Cummins Orlando had quoted me for the same identical job which was $4950.

This was done back in early 2020.

What was the name of the place if you don’t mind.??


Sharp Microwave being replaced
Dr4Film

 As others have strongly recommended, replace duplex AND outlet box with residential quality ones.

The Sharp Microwave model R1881LSY appears to be an excellent choice. Same size, etc. Hopefully mounts to the back wall the same as the 1874T model.

Don't know if you have been using your microwave powered from the Inverter but that is something I have never done and never recommend doing. I always start the generator when using high powered devices.


Sharp Microwave being replaced
Gary 05 AMB DST

I was having the same problem with my Sharp 1870, though not as bad as your outlet. I put a 20 Amp outlet and plug in.

Gary 05 AMB DST


Chinese exhaust manifold
Dr4Film
18 minutes ago, m.demeere said:

What was the name of the place if you don’t mind.??

Action Mobile - 11052 Satellite Blvd Orlando, FL 32837

http://actionmobileinc.com/index.html

John Douglas is the owner/president. He is also a RV owner and knows them well.

Tell John I sent you there if you go. He's a great guy along with his entire staff.

They do ALL of my engine work and service including the generator. Plus they don't shuffle you off to a customer lounge somewhere hidden from view.


Air leveling aux compressor air line routing
Dr4Film

You don't say what brand of air leveling you have in your coach.

I replaced & relocated my failed air compressor back in 2019.

Here is the thread and photos of what I did.

https://www.monacoers.org/topic/296-hwh-air-compressor-replacement-last-summer/?tab=comments#comment-2064

My original unit (HWH) came with an air dryer which I cleaned up and tested. It automatically expels any trapped moisture in the line.


Chinese exhaust manifold
m.demeere

Thank you very much,


Battery Desulfurization
Jdw12345

Just wondering if anyone has used this product or anything similar and your opinion of such a product?

 

https://www.pulsetech.net/pp-12-l-powerpulse-12-volt-battery-maintenance-system.html

 

   Thanks!


Anyone know what this is?
redstickbill

That's the regulator for the tag axle. How does the coach handle on the road? If the coach is new to you, start with getting the coach weighed at all tires, adjust the tire pressure for the heaviest weight on each axle, then drive the coach, if the coach handles good, you are set, adjusting the tag axle regulator can help to have the coach good.

Bill B 07 Dynasty

USN Ret.


Battery Desulfurization
Ivylog

For half the money I would buy a pulse maintainer 3 stage charger. Does it desulfate a battery??? The one I have seems to bring back to life a battery that is very low on charge BUT with nothing to compare it against, who really knows.

You should have a equalization cycle in your charger and rice a year it’s not a bad idea to let it charge your batteries at a higher voltage… not AGMs.

43E61514-2AE9-4759-B769-B66A8A6E5F8C.png


Sharp Microwave being replaced
Steven P

Interesting info to wake up to.  I don't think the microwave is bad.  When I wiggled the plug it came back on. I guess I figured the microwave was part of the issue and not so much the outlet.  Also, I thought Monaco used these single plugs here for a reason and didn't realize I could put a duplex in.  I will gladly run to HD today and get a duplex and a new cord end.  I'd rather do that.  For checking the amps, I should look for a device that plugs into the outlet and then plug the microwave into it?  I have a clamp on ammeter, but I'll either need to pull part of the cord cover off or get to the inside of the microwave so that plug in device seems easier.  

Yes, wr have run it off the inverter before. It's been a while though. 

Thank you all. 


The Trip from Hell
just_john1

Update:

I'm looking for a second opinion on the engine. All of the calls I have received are pretty much people wanting it for nothing, very disheartening.

Now for the update, when you think thing couldn't get any worse, you would be wrong. Yesterday I was showing the bus to a guy and noticed someone had been in the bus. We got robbed. Took all kinds of stuff, mostly electronics. I could have lived with the loss but on further examining, they took a pair of my cowboy boots and the Biggy my wife's mobility scooter.  Apparently this thief isn't big on old people having transportation. I meet with the police to day to file a report. I have notified my insurance company.

I was doing fine up until this part. I just want to get out of this town! I even went so far as starting a Go Fund Me Page.

If you find these post depressing, let me know and I'll stop and wait for when I have rainbows and unicorns.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
On 10/22/2021 at 2:11 PM, Cubflyer said:

yes behind the axle and a 4 post leveling, unlike your single front jack post.

Thanks. Appointment tomorrow with a Fab shop to see if I can move Front Watts to the forward side of axle


Starter Won't Engage
bandmmorris
9 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

Similar problems have shown up on here many times over the yrs and usually a smaller wire was found to have been left off or was broken at the batteries.

Each coach may be a little different but all of the later model ( electronic engines ) have constant power to the engine and transmission computers for their memory.                                                                                                                                                                                                                   

Since the problem presented it's self after the batteries were changed the most likely place is right there at the batteries or very close by.   Dig around the batteries with a strong light and hopefully you'll locate a wire.   There is an inline fuse somewhere along there too,  you might look for it as well.   The transmission shift panel not lighting up points in that same direction also.  That shift panel and trans ecm must have power for the engine to start.

Now if you worked in other areas too you might have introduced a problem there.  Go back to square one and check connections.

I have checked the wiring multiple times and believe it to be correct. There are 3 wires on the chassis batteries, 1 large red cable to positive terminal, 1 large black cable to negative terminal and smaller red wire to positive terminal with inline fuse that goes to the battery combiner. Would appreciate if anyone with a Monaco Camelot around 2007 vintage check and let me know if theirs is wired the same. The battery area is the only place I worked in.

13 hours ago, Trinidaddave said:

I think my first check would be getting my meter out and checking battery voltage.  You might as well start at the source.

Battery voltages are good, around 13.3 volts.

10 hours ago, Ray Davis said:

Sounds like you may have left off one of the small wires at the + post for the chassis batteries.   Did you take a picture first?

I have checked the wiring multiple times and believe it to be correct. There are 3 wires on the chassis batteries, 1 large red cable to positive terminal, 1 large black cable to negative terminal and smaller red wire to positive terminal with inline fuse that goes to the battery combiner. Would appreciate if anyone with a Monaco Camelot around 2007 vintage check and let me know if theirs is wired the same.


Sharp Microwave being replaced
tmw188

You can probably get one of those splitters to use for your clamp meter, or before you close up the new receptacle install and if there is room maybe you can get the meter on it then. 


The Trip from Hell
Mocephus
37 minutes ago, just_john1 said:

Update:

I'm looking for a second opinion on the engine. All of the calls I have received are pretty much people wanting it for nothing, very disheartening.

Now for the update, when you think thing couldn't get any worse, you would be wrong. Yesterday I was showing the bus to a guy and noticed someone had been in the bus. We got robbed. Took all kinds of stuff, mostly electronics. I could have lived with the loss but on further examining, they took a pair of my cowboy boots and the Biggy my wife's mobility scooter.  Apparently this thief isn't big on old people having transportation. I meet with the police to day to file a report. I have notified my insurance company.

I was doing fine up until this part. I just want to get out of this town! I even went so far as starting a Go Fund Me Page.

If you find these post depressing, let me know and I'll stop and wait for when I have rainbows and unicorns.

So sorry to hear of these very difficult times you are experiencing. Praying for your situation to quickly improve.


The Trip from Hell
just_john1

I was asked for the GoFundMe link, I hadn't planned on posting it here, but here it is.

https://www.gofundme.com/f/getting-out-of-everett?utm_source=customer&utm_medium=copy_link&utm_campaign=p_cf+share-flow-1

Thanks. John


Sharp Microwave being replaced
Grampy OG

Any chance that your Dip has an amp meter built into your info center?

If so observe the amp draw and then observe the amp draw while the Mwave is running...

Easy Peasy

 


The Trip from Hell
Ivylog

I would think a Cummins place would have cameras.


2215 fault code
BradHend

Jacwjames, I filled it up with new fuel when I got it home from the seller, after changing the  fuel filters yesterday, I see no evidence of algae.  

I think I’ve narrowed it down to a bad pressure sensor on the high pressure common rail, or a bad high pressure pump.  Will need to get a gauge made up so I can check the PSI on the rail while cranking to see if it’s within spec,  from what I’ve read it should be around 100psi.  If that checks out, I’ll buy a new pressure sensor.  If that still doesn’t do it, guess I’ll need to send her in and get ready to bend over. 😢


Starter Won't Engage
bandmmorris

Made a little progress. In the rear run electrical compartment I noticed 4 small enclosures that when you take them apart there are fuses inside. One had 2 - 30 amp fuses that were blown. I replaced them and now when I jumper the starter solenoid with the key on the engine will start and run fine, but the starter solenoid will not engage from the switch. I have transmission and check engine lights on and the transmission shift buttons still do not light up. Must have shorted a cable when installing the new batteries.


2215 fault code
Flyinhy
11 minutes ago, BradHend said:

Jacwjames, I filled it up with new fuel when I got it home from the seller, after changing the  fuel filters yesterday, I see no evidence of algae.  

I think I’ve narrowed it down to a bad pressure sensor on the high pressure common rail, or a bad high pressure pump.  Will need to get a gauge made up so I can check the PSI on the rail while cranking to see if it’s within spec,  from what I’ve read it should be around 100psi.  If that checks out, I’ll buy a new pressure sensor.  If that still doesn’t do it, guess I’ll need to send her in and get ready to bend over. 😢

Glad to see you're narrowing it down.....hopefully it's not the pump. 100 psi? Seems awfully low for that engine...


2215 fault code
jacwjames

How did you get this code??


Starter Won't Engage
klcdenver

There should be a group of white wires that you probably forgot to connect back to one of the post when you changed the batteries. 


Sharp Microwave being replaced
OhReally

Also looks like you might have some water infiltration. I would do a good inspection for water stains around the old receptacle.

-Jamie


Starter Won't Engage
bandmmorris

I have looked multiple times and cannot find any other wires to connect. I have checked the wiring multiple times and believe it to be correct. There are 3 wires on the chassis batteries, 1 large red cable to positive terminal, 1 large black cable to negative terminal and smaller red wire to positive terminal with inline fuse that goes to the battery combiner. Would appreciate if anyone with a Monaco Camelot around 2007 vintage check and let me know if theirs is wired the same. Since my initial post I have made a little progress. In the rear run electrical compartment I noticed 4 small enclosures that when you take them apart there are fuses inside. One had 2 - 30 amp fuses that were blown. I replaced them and now when I jumper the starter solenoid with the key on the engine will start and run fine, but the starter solenoid will not engage from the switch. I have transmission and check engine lights on and the transmission shift buttons still do not light up. Must have shorted a cable when installing the new batteries.


Deep Cell Battery Replacement
RoadTripper2084
18 hours ago, Ivylog said:

The price of Lithium cells (build your own batteries) has come way way down in the last couple months…BUT the current backlog of container ships may require waiting on them for months.

I recently ordered 8 280AH cells … enough cells to make 2 batteries for a total of 560AH. Including a basic BMS and probably 10 hours of my time the cost will be $1/AH, about the price of lead acid golf cart batteries. The Lithiums should last 5X and you can use 90+% of their AHs instead if 50%. Battle Born wants $7+/AH.

It’s really not that hard to build…plenty of videos on how. 6 months ago I thought I’d done well building 600AH of batteries for $2/AH…$1200 instead of Bend over Born’s $4800 price.

Yes, you cannot charge Lithiums when frozen…can still discharge them. Charging takes a slightly higher voltage but a AGM setting will do the job.

I'm researching right now and would like to upgrade to LifePo4 for the house batteries, assemble my own as you have done.

What I'm struggling with is figuring out the "minimal" required other components in my rig that I'd have to replace to do so (doesn't make much sense to go lithium if I have to spend 2x for new converters, smart battery monitors, etc. as well).

Thus far I *think* the path of least cost may be to use a DC-DC charger between the lead acid chassis batteries and the LiFePo4 house batteries, and simply charge the house batteries whenever the chassis batteries are being charged (detect higher chassis battery voltage). I'm not sure if I also need to disconnect the house batteries from the existing coach charging circuits or if that can be left in place, since the voltage levels are all low enough that they can't overcharge the lithiums in any case?

How have you got your lithium house batteries setup in the coach? 


The Trip from Hell
BobSchmeck

Nope! Keep posting, you need to sound off & we need to hear how you are being treated.  

Sometimes life's a bitch, sometimes life's just another day, right now life's a bitch!

Read your GoFund me page. 

 I  will assume your speaking the truth.  I  don't trust dealerships & most mechanics. I  have to ask, was the starter bad? Did the mechanic bench test it when he got it out? Before putting on a new one starter thay better known the old one was dead! Way in hell would it would take $10,000 to pull turbo .  Then it's broken into while sitting on there lot. I  assume it's still there.  Time for that place to step up to the plate and work out a deal. 

Society is going to hell in a handbasket. But all you have to do is read the bible, it tells us were we are going.  

We will do what we can, and I  hope others will do the same.  

Heres our morning view. 

20211024_063904.jpg


2215 fault code
BradHend

I got the code from the on board diagnostic, turn the key on, fully depress the gas pedal 3 times and the code is flashed via the “stop engine” light. 


Starter Won't Engage
Trinidaddave

This is a good reminder to turn off the battery disconnects prior to removing battery terminals. 
 

if you stated it, I missed what engine you have?

 


Starter Won't Engage
FishAR

I wish my 42pdq was here so I could look but it's still at the shop. Racking my brain I remember no small wires attached to any batteries, only the bts from the house batteries which doesn't matter here.

I also don't remember any small enclosures with fuses inside my rear elec bay.

Does your rear bay look like this?

 

865787687_rearelecbay.jpg.4231fe999ef661c7d0a506e75357eb3c.jpg


Full Body Paint
Joe E.
On 10/21/2021 at 8:05 PM, BobSchmeck said:

Wraps that I have inquired about thay say have a 5yr lifespan depending on how the coach is stored & the environment you live in. Then they need to be removed.  

We just reserved a spot to get our coach painted in Los Algodones Mexico in February. Its a 38ft Monaco diplomat Full body paint 4 colors.  $14G. It will take 5 to 8 weeks to complete.  They have been in business 45 years. In the states we have been quoted 28g & up. 

Do the paint shops in Mexico remove and reapply all of the caulking as part of the job?  Belt lines, slides, windows, vent panels, etc?

Joe E. 08 HR Amb


Starter Won't Engage
bandmmorris

My rear bay is somewhat different. Yours does not seem to have the small enclosures with fuses that mine does. Mine also has battery disconnects (for chassis and coach) and some other items.


2215 fault code
jacwjames

I am not familiar with the Cummins 5.9.

First suggestion would be to set up an account on the Cummins Quickserve site.  When you try and create an account it will take you to a page that shows 4 subscription options, just choose the free one and go through the steps to create and account.  They recently changed this and people have been reporting problems so be patient, it is well worth the effort.  You will be able to research how to troubleshoot these codes with detailed bulletins and drawings. 

I have done multiple searches on the 2215 code and the ones that reported resolution said it was a fuel delivery problem (leak) at the lift pump.  Have you checked the lift pump, I know on my 8.3ISC engine the lift pump is a known issue.  Mine started leaking last year so I bit the bullet this year and installed a FASS pump and abandoned the old lift pump. 

~10 years ago I went ahead an bought a Silverleaf VMSpc that monitors all the engine parameters and will provide fault codes.  One of the best things I ever did. 

 


Full Body Paint
BobSchmeck
7 minutes ago, Joe E. said:

Do the paint shops in Mexico remove and reapply all of the caulking as part of the job?  Belt lines, slides, windows, vent panels, etc?

Joe E. 08 HR Amb

Putting together a list of questions. That was the #1 on the list. Were also going to see a person who had there's done so i can see the work in person.  Will let you know what I find out.  


Sharp Microwave being replaced
Steven P
1 hour ago, Grampy OG said:

Any chance that your Dip has an amp meter built into your info center?

If so observe the amp draw and then observe the amp draw while the Mwave is running...

Easy Peasy

 

My ampmeter only shows amps used if on genny or maybe inverter,  not while plugged into 50a.

43 minutes ago, OhReally said:

Also looks like you might have some water infiltration. I would do a good inspection for water stains around the old receptacle.

-Jamie

I'll look more. Definite corrosion in the receptacle, but I'm not seeing other signs.  I wonder how much is due to good old condensation. 


Battery Desulfurization
BobSchmeck
4 hours ago, Jdw12345 said:

Just wondering if anyone has used this product or anything similar and your opinion of such a product?

 

https://www.pulsetech.net/pp-12-l-powerpulse-12-volt-battery-maintenance-system.html

 

   Thanks!

I use a battery maintainer that I get from Costco.  $45 . Seems to help a lot especially when the coach is sitting for a time. As long as you have power near by. 


Battery Desulfurization
jacwjames

I installed a Power Pulse in 2015, I had installed new batteries in ~2012, I just changed them this year after one died.   I was satisfied with how long the batteries lasted and provided good service until one just up and died. 

If you do equalize your batteries make sure to read the instructions, it isn't as simple as just pushing a button on the display. 


The Trip from Hell
just_john1

I was asked for the GoFundMe link, I hadn't planned on posting it here, but here it is.

https://www.gofundme.com/f/getting-out-of-everett?utm_source=customer&utm_medium=copy_link&utm_campaign=p_cf+share-flow-1

Thanks. John

I was asked for the GoFundMe link, I hadn't planned on posting it here, but here it is.

https://www.gofundme.com/f/getting-out-of-everett?utm_source=customer&utm_medium=copy_link&utm_campaign=p_cf+share-flow-1

Thanks. John

Ivylog. Cummins is closed for the weekend, you can bet I'll be there B and E Monday.

Bob. Sad to say it's the truth, wish it wasn't but life keeps on going.


Starter Won't Engage
FishAR
37 minutes ago, bandmmorris said:

My rear bay is somewhat different. Yours does not seem to have the small enclosures with fuses that mine does. Mine also has battery disconnects (for chassis and coach) and some other items.

Amazing how we have 2 coaches, same year, same model, yet different.

Mid year changes I guess.


Battery Desulfurization
Tom Wallis

So much has been said about batteries on this forum that I've been reluctant to add my voice. I've been involved in battery care and maintenance most of my life both by occupation and hobby. I've worked with battery banks, stationary batteries and fleet batteries and I'm a long time RVer. Here is what I've found to be true:

Unless your RV is very old it probably came with a 3 stage charger/converter. The best thing you can do for your batteries is keep your RV plugged in when it's not in use. The 3 stage charger will charge the batteries rapidly at first then throttle back to a medium charge and finally go to float or a maintenance charge. This ideal and pretty hard to beat with any supplemental charger. You should be able to leave your RV plugged in for extended periods without worrying about water loss, freezing or sulfation.   Do check your battery water before storage. Letting it get below the top of the plates is detrimental.

Some motorhomes charge the chassis battery when plugged in and some don't. My didn't so I converted it so it does. That's another subject.

The worst thing you can do to your lead acid batteries is to discharge them below 50%. The further you go past 50% discharge the shorter their life will be and discharging them 100% is an absolute no no. Also, the longer they sit discharged the worse it is. Try to charge them as soon as possible anytime they get run down.

If a battery has been abused those pulse chargers might coax a tiny bit of life out it but not much.

Some will disagree with me but I wouldn't spend the extra money on AGM batteries unless you need them for an enclosed space (no fumes) or you really need maintenance free. Otherwise I don't think they perform any better than flooded batteries. I buy the 6 volt golf cart batteries from Costco. Golf cart batteries are rugged and they're built for deep discharging and I think they give you the biggest bang for your buck. Mine are 4 years old and going strong.


Sharp Microwave being replaced
Grampy OG
29 minutes ago, Steven P said:

My ampmeter only shows amps used if on genny or maybe inverter,  not while plugged into 50a.

I'll look more. Definite corrosion in the receptacle, but I'm not seeing other signs.  I wonder how much is due to good old condensation. 

So start the genny or inverter and check amps and then run the mwave. same amp draw regardless of power source. a solid mwave on HIGH should be around 12 amps a/c  give or take.


Starter Won't Engage
Ray Davis

These things can run you crazy.   I should have elaborated a little,  many coaches have those small wires connecting directly to the battery, others may connect a little farther from the batteries.   They should still be connected somewhere so they will have 12v constantly,  as I stated this is for the ECMs memory.  However 12v is also necessary from the key to both ECMs to be able to start and drive the RV.  I am not familiar with the 4 enclosures with the blown fuses,  that may be the feed from the    batteries.

BTW do you have a remote start switch in the engine compartment?   I don't think it being in the wrong position will cause all the things you mentioned but it will keep you from being able to start.


Beltline Trim
Larry Laursen

Steele Rubber Products in NC makes screw track covers.  They may have something helpful.

Steele Rubber Products - Home

 


Starter Won't Engage
Jim Byrd
1 hour ago, bandmmorris said:

I have looked multiple times and cannot find any other wires to connect. I have checked the wiring multiple times and believe it to be correct. There are 3 wires on the chassis batteries, 1 large red cable to positive terminal, 1 large black cable to negative terminal and smaller red wire to positive terminal with inline fuse that goes to the battery combiner. Would appreciate if anyone with a Monaco Camelot around 2007 vintage check and let me know if theirs is wired the same. Since my initial post I have made a little progress. In the rear run electrical compartment I noticed 4 small enclosures that when you take them apart there are fuses inside. One had 2 - 30 amp fuses that were blown. I replaced them and now when I jumper the starter solenoid with the key on the engine will start and run fine, but the starter solenoid will not engage from the switch. I have transmission and check engine lights on and the transmission shift buttons still do not light up. Must have shorted a cable when installing the new batteries.

My 04 Holiday Rambler came with a trouble shooting flow chart on some of the drawings. Maybe your drawings have the same. Let me known if you need them.

Jim


The Trip from Hell
Mel S - '96 Safari

John Clos

Unfortunately at times ALL OF US could use $10,000 of free GoFundMe money.


Battery Desulfurization
RoadTripper2084

 

48 minutes ago, Tom Wallis said:

So much has been said about batteries on this forum that I've been reluctant to add my voice. I've been involved in battery care and maintenance most of my life both by occupation and hobby. I've worked with battery banks, stationary batteries and fleet batteries and I'm a long time RVer. Here is what I've found to be true:

Unless your RV is very old it probably came with a 3 stage charger/converter. The best thing you can do for your batteries is keep your RV plugged in when it's not in use. The 3 stage charger will charge the batteries rapidly at first then throttle back to a medium charge and finally go to float or a maintenance charge. This ideal and pretty hard to beat with any supplemental charger. You should be able to leave your RV plugged in for extended periods without worrying about water loss, freezing or sulfation.   Do check your battery water before storage. Letting it get below the top of the plates is detrimental.

Some motorhomes charge the chassis battery when plugged in and some don't. My didn't so I converted it so it does. That's another subject.

The worst thing you can do to your lead acid batteries is to discharge them below 50%. The further you go past 50% discharge the shorter their life will be and discharging them 100% is an absolute no no. Also, the longer they sit discharged the worse it is. Try to charge them as soon as possible anytime they get run down.

If a battery has been abused those pulse chargers might coax a tiny bit of life out it but not much.

Some will disagree with me but I wouldn't spend the extra money on AGM batteries unless you need them for an enclosed space (no fumes) or you really need maintenance free. Otherwise I don't think they perform any better than flooded batteries. I buy the 6 volt golf cart batteries from Costco. Golf cart batteries are rugged and they're built for deep discharging and I think they give you the biggest bang for your buck. Mine are 4 years old and going strong.

In my travel trailer, which I just sold this fall, I had a pair of 6-volt golf cart batteries, they were basically Trojan knock offs by a local commercial battery supplier (240AH). 

I was careful to never let the water get below the top of the plates, rarely drained them below 50% capacity, and not for long if I did, as recommended above, and put them on a shelf in my garage in the winter on a very small maintainer.

These batteries were 12 years old when I sold the unit. They were starting to show their age, with frequent buildup on the posts, etc. However, we were able to complete a successful 4 night dry camp in Jasper this summer without draining them below 50%. Best battery experience of my life.

Looking to use LiFePo4 for the house batteries in my new rig, but failing that 6-volt flooded would be my next choice for sure.


Speedometer reading way too high, and transmission not shifting up
Skipjack

I have a J1587 port for my diagnostics, and thought I could also use this to help diagnose the root cause of my problem

Any recommendations of what to get?

I have Cummins 5.9L ISB 26 /275LT /300
and
Allison Transmission
Model 2000 MH

J1587.JPG

dash.JPG


Starter Won't Engage
bandmmorris

Thanks for the offer, but just found the problem. In addition to the 2 "hidden" 30 amp fuses in the rear run panel I found and Allison box. Took the screws out of it and removed the cover and found several relays and one 10 amp fuse. Fuse was blown. Replaced it and all is good now. Thanks for everyone for their suggestions.


Starter Won't Engage
bandmmorris

Just found the problem. In addition to the 2 "hidden" 30 amp fuses in the rear run panel that were blown I found an Allison box in the front electrical panel. Took the screws out of it and removed the cover and found several relays and one 10 amp fuse. Fuse was blown. Replaced it and all is good now. Thanks for everyone for their suggestions.


Living Room Slide came in part way and stopped
jacwjames

Do you have a slide controller,

I have one that looks like this but I have electric slides.  https://revrvparts.com/item-detail?itemId=51447&organizationId=9

There is a fuse on it but also there is an ignition disable relay.   There is also a slide disable relay in my front drivers side electrical compartment.  Either of these could be bad.  My guess is your 2001 have similar controls/safeties.


Beltline Trim
Bill R

Bob - how can I tell.  When I had my roof sealed I was told it was fiberglass.  But not sure if they knew for sure.  Is there a way to find out. 


Starter Won't Engage
Ray Davis
39 minutes ago, bandmmorris said:

Just found the problem. In addition to the 2 "hidden" 30 amp fuses in the rear run panel that were blown I found an Allison box in the front electrical panel. Took the screws out of it and removed the cover and found several relays and one 10 amp fuse. Fuse was blown. Replaced it and all is good now. Thanks for everyone for their suggestions.

That's great,  thanks for letting us know.  I learned something,  I didn't know there was a fuse in there.

Any idea what caused the fuses to blow?

How did you end up with 2 threads?


More battery questions
waterskier_1
19 hours ago, tact50 said:

Thank you for your responses.. my question now is how to most effectively test the house batteries. If the house battery is full, the inverter is on, and I’m using no other source of power- how long should my batteries last if I’m only using a small oxygen concentrator and C-PAP machine? 
 

The batteries seem to only last 1.5 - 2 hours max. That doesn’t seem right to me but I’m not sure. Please share your experience… thank you in advance !

You need to tell us the exact batteries you are using - Manufacturer and Model number.  The manufacturer provides a load test (discharge profile).  The basic way to test the batteries is to fully charge them.  The data sheet for you batteries defines fully charged as when the voltage is set to the manufacturer specified volts and the charge current drops to less than the manufacturer specified Amps.  For Example: If you had the Fullriver DC250 mentioned above, the values are 14.7 volts and 5 Amps when they are fully charged.

Then you need to disconnect the charger, and either disconnect all loads.  If your loads are continuous at the same value, you can use them.  I use a space heater point out the window as a load.  Most batteries have several profiles, but the most common one all has is the Amp-Hrs at 20 hour rate of discharge.  In the case of the DC250 above, that is 250 Amp-Hours.  The DC250 Discharge Table shows that the battery should last 20 hours at 12.5 Amp up to 5 hours at 40.8 amps.  NOTE: These values are for a single battery.  Since you'll likely have four batteries in a series/parallel arrangement, that means that at 12 Volts, you should have 500 Amp-Hours and the 40.8 amps discharge should take 10 hours until the batteries reach 10 VDC (again for the DD250).  So, find something that will discharge at about 40 Amps (as I stated, I use a space heater and an dimmable halogen work light to fine tune the current).  The current will vary as the voltage varies, but the intent is to determine if your batteries are okay, not to certify their actual capacity.  So, with a 40 Amp discharge, the battery bank should last 10 hours, if the batteries maintain full rated capacity.  If the only last 9 hours, then you can say that they have 90% of the original rated capacity.  I would consider this okay.  But if they only last 4 or 5 hours, I'd consider replacing them.

I don't know how much current a small oxygen concentrator draws, but my CPAP can be as little as 0.5 Amp (at 120 VAC) without the humidifier turn on to over 5 Amps with the humidifier at maximum.  Remember that 5 Amps at 120 VAC is about 50 Amps at 12 VDC.  That would mean that the CPAP would draw over 50 Amps (assuming the humidifier was on full time, I have not conducted studies to determine the percent of time it is actually on) itself.  When dry camping I generally turn off my humidifier.  If you O2 Concentrator was similar, that is 100 Amp load, and would only last about 5 hours on a new set of batteries.   I don't think you really have that much load, but without know the actual numbers, and the actual batteries, it is hard to say.  But a rough load test as described above will give you a rough idea of you batteries capacity.


Starter Won't Engage
Frank Bergamo

It pays to be persistent! Thanks for the update.


Anyone know what this is?
Ron Van Arsdall

After having my coach weighed and playing with the adjustment I ended up running my tag at 45 pounds of pressure. Rides much nicer also. 


Sharp Microwave being replaced
Steven P

Well, I wanna thank you guys.  Microwave is back up and running.  Added a new plug to it, removed the old outlet,  installed an old work, shallow box and a 20a heavy duty receptacle.  I only measured 7.6A on the microwave on high and measured it across the hot and neutral before I put the plug cover on. Hardest part of this is trying to make sure I canceled the microwave I ordered from Sharp. Their seems to be a little language barrier when talking with some of their help desk.  🤔 

I'm hoping this was the source of my gfci in the bathroom tripping.  

20211024_101425.jpg

20211024_125749.jpg

20211024_131402.jpg


Beltline Trim
Larry Laursen
1 hour ago, Bill R said:

Bob - how can I tell.  When I had my roof sealed I was told it was fiberglass.  But not sure if they knew for sure.  Is there a way to find out. 

Generally fiberglass roofs are one piece and don't have a seam down the center.  Aluminum roofs are two piece with a left and right side piece running the length of the coach.  They have a sealing tape running along the centerline. 


Deep Cell Battery Replacement
Ivylog

This summer I ran a combination of AGM & Lithiums house batteries… built the Lithiums sooner than I really needed as the AGMs still have several years of life left in them. With the recent drop in cell prices I should have waited, never thing you could build a 12V Lithium for $1/AH.

You can charge a lithium to 90% of capacity with the chargers that are in our motorhomes. I have my doubts that you need a DC to DC limiting device because the wire from your alternator isn’t capable of passing more amps than what the alternator can take.

I already run the generator in the morning before leaving after dry camping so that the alternator doesn’t have to charge the batteries as much. I’ve already installed a remote sensing temperature probe on my alternator to get a baseline of what is normal for it so when I start charging Lithiums with it, I’ll have a better idea if I really have a problem.


Anyone know what this is?
Ivylog

40 psi in the tag’s airbags is a good starting point but on the first year of a Dynasty with a tag axle, I doubt you need that much.


Batteries
vito.a

I found Trojan GC2 6 volt batteries at our local golf cart store for $125 each.  

Our last set of Trojan batteries lasted almost 10 years.  

By the time these are done we will all probably be going to lithium.  


Starter Won't Engage
bandmmorris

Suspect the cause was arcing the battery when replacing the starting batteries.


Beltline Trim
Bill R

Then this is a fiberglass roof.   


Living Room Slide came in part way and stopped
Corkman

Thanks to Ron Van Arsdall and Tony G, , I looked under my entry steps and found this group of 4 pumps. Apparently one of these is for the slide (maybe 2 pumps are for slide: one in, one out?)

I found the two 15 amp fuses and both were good. I also traced one of the pumps to the generator slide. I tried the generator slide and it failed to work also,. Now I suspected that the solenoid (that I also found under the steps along with the 4 pumps) might be bad. YUP, it was bad. Replaced it and everything works as normal now.

Thanks for the tip Ron Van Arsdall and Tony G

I never did see a slide controller like Jim J has, perhaps that was an "improvement" on later years 🙂


Anyone know what this is?
Corkman

Yes I have a tag axle, so I guess this is for that, as almost everyone pointed out. I've had my couch for about 6-7 years and think it rides good, but I do seem to notice that the rear of the coach squats down a little when I lift my motorcycle (I have a M/C lift on the back.

Perhaps I should increase the pressure a little bit?


Anyone know what this is?
96 EVO

Only way to know for sure is to run it over a scale both with, and without the bike on the lift, and get 3 axle weights each time.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
vanwill52
13 hours ago, dl_racing427 said:

Van,

I'd be very interested in seeing your solution for using X-Bars on both ends of the pre-94 Roadmaster chassis.
My 93 Dynasty could use some help in this dept.

PS: Thanks for being safe. 😀

David, I'll look to see if I still have some pix.  It was very simple to do.


Anyone know what this is?
Ivylog

A 1000+ lbs hanging off the rear makes a BIG difference… probably go to 50 psi and then weigh.


Beltline Trim
RBRODDER
23 hours ago, BobSchmeck said:

 

Hi Bill,  question do you have an aluminum roof?

Yes, it is an aluminum roof.


Changing out Norcold to Fisher Paykel residential
Tim.dougherty@comcast.net

I have a question for those of you that know about these things. I have a Xantrex model RV2012 Inverter made in 2004 can I use this with the Fisher Paykel refrigerator?

I have decided on the FP because of the limitations associated with heater beneath the refrigerator, purchased model RF170ADUSX4.

Thanks

Tim

 

2004 Monaco Dynasty

4569EFC1-3050-4DEB-BA2E-6B14E72D296D.jpeg


Beltline Trim
BobSchmeck
8 minutes ago, RBRODDER said:

Yes, it is an aluminum roof.

Scrap a very small spot on the roof were its painted. If it shows silver, it's aluminum.  

Larry is correct.  


Beltline Trim
David White
4 hours ago, Bill R said:

Bob - how can I tell.  When I had my roof sealed I was told it was fiberglass.  But not sure if they knew for sure.  Is there a way to find out. 

BilI, I’m obviously not Bob, but I have a ‘05 Windsor and it has the solid fiberglass roof.  Since the ‘06 was the last year for Windsors, and appear to be a continuation of the ‘05 design, I think you have fiberglass which rolls over the edge and down to that upper beltline.  It has no seam down to centerline, front to back, which is a indicator of the aluminum roof.


Thin-lite porch light replacement lens
Stevve

Does anyone know where to find a clear lens cover for a series 160 Thin-lite porch light?

Porch light is on a 2008 Camelot.

Steve


Changing out Norcold to Fisher Paykel residential
Dr4Film

Tim,

You have made an excellent choice!

If I had not installed the early version of the Samsung RF-197 fridge back in 2012 my second choice would have been a Fisher-Paykel model.

The FP fridges play well with a MSW Inverter so no worries.

Enjoy your new fridge!


Changing out Norcold to Fisher Paykel residential
David White

Tim, I think your question should be whether or not the FP can be used with a modified sine inverter, which I think you have. Maybe the info is in the manual or might require a call to FP to ask that question. 

Several owners on this site have used the FP with happy results, so maybe the users can come in to answer the question.

I opted for a Samsung and it could be run on MS inverters, but I add a separate pure sine 1200 to handle the fridge.  It has a automatic transfer switch to go between shore power/ generator and batteries if not on a AC source. This was a much less expensive option than changing out the existing inverter.


Thin-lite porch light replacement lens
96 EVO

Believe I got a replacement a few yrs back on Amazon.

 

*edit*... Mine was amber.


Thin-lite porch light replacement lens
TigerMar

You can order clear or amber through Thin-lite direct from company.  Located in Carlsbad CA


Beltline Trim
Bill R

David, thanks for confirming what I suspected that it is fiberglass. No seam, feels and sounds like fiberglass, and I had been told it was fiberglass.   If it quacks like a duck……


Full Body Paint
Joe E.

Milling about smartly, standing by. 


Locating Speaker wiring
nvrtoofast

I'm working on outfitting stereo in the bedroom of my 2006 Monaco Camelot. I have an RCA cable behind the TV. It has Left Right and Video. There are two speakers over the bed that work independently from the house stereo. I'm trying to locate the amplifier between these two.

I've traced the RCA cabling under the bed and will continue looking around. I'm asking if anyone knows the location of low voltage wiring for the bedroom area. It will certainly save me time

 


Locating Speaker wiring
Harvey Babb

A cable tracer might be money well spent in that case. They cost somewhere in the 25 to $40 range and are available at most home supply and electrical supply dealers. They will allow you to trace wires behind non conductive walls as well as helpingt o verify individual wires once you find the end.

 


Thin-lite porch light replacement lens
weighman695

I just bought mine from Walmart recently.  Clear porch light replacement.  Good quality.

Screenshot_20211024-183920_Walmart.jpg


Water heater DSI fault light
Irishman1

Quick help, in my 2005 monarch se I now have my dsi fault  light on. I’ve purged the tank and checked my gas and all is well. The light comes with both the 12 volt switch or the 120 volt switch and the water heater pilot is definitely off. No spark.  it is super windy here so maybe that blew it out? 
whst can I try to restart the lo heater

Thanks


Thin-lite porch light replacement lens
Chuck B 2004 Windsor

Check out Camping World


Locating Speaker wiring
Gary 05 AMB DST

Could the RCA cable left, right be a connection to the speakers over the bed. 

Gary 05 AMB DST


The Trip from Hell
Gary Petersen

John,

So very sorry to hear of your troubles.

I work within a block of the Cummins shop in Everett.

Please give me call if I can be of service, or local advice.

Hope to hear from you.

Gary (425-501-0000)

2002' Sig

 

 


Locating Speaker wiring
nvrtoofast
17 minutes ago, Gary 05 AMB DST said:

Could the RCA cable left, right be a connection to the speakers over the bed. 

Gary 05 AMB DST

The Rca cables are for the sppeakers but they have to process through an amp at some point

 


Batteries
vegaman19760

Our local Interstate Battery dealer will test any battery we bring to their shop, RV car, house back up generator, anything.  I replaced our DP four House batteries with AGM batteries.  Our Interstate dealer removed our old batteries and installed the new AGM batteries at no charge.  Not sure all dealers do that but ours does.  Stay safe, Stay well.


Locating Speaker wiring
redstickbill

I believe the RCA cables run from the front entertainment center to the rear TV. The radio speakers are wired separately and may run in the forward and aft in the ceiling.

Bill B 07 Dynasty


Water heater DSI fault light
Irishman1

FIXED!  I had installed quick connects to my water lines and water filter, they have a internal baffle in the female side that the male  pushes in. This was the only different thing that I had done so I thought I would undo it and see. Within 3 minutes or so I heard the burner pop on. Must not have had enough water flow to keep the 10 gallon take full


New Driver & Passenger Seats
Irishman1

Check out Bostrom truck seats. Pop used them for years in his work trucks and then in his Motorhome’s. There are some starting at around 1000.00 but go up to whatever you want to pay.. nice adjustments and sir shock ride


Driver seat lever
JFitzloff

I am looking for the plastic handle for the drivers seat back tilt. The seat is a Flex Steel.

 

 

image.jpeg

image.jpeg


New Driver & Passenger Seats
Steven P
On 10/22/2021 at 8:39 PM, Jean G said:

Can anyone tell me how to make the seats swivel? It's not covered in the manual that u can find. Thanks!

I pull out the lever in the front of mine. 

16351272021881242678890920941031.jpg


Changing out Norcold to Fisher Paykel residential
Paul A.
4 hours ago, Tim.dougherty@comcast.net said:

I have a question for those of you that know about these things. I have a Xantrex model RV2012 Inverter made in 2004 can I use this with the Fisher Paykel refrigerator?

I have decided on the FP because of the limitations associated with heater beneath the refrigerator, purchased model RF170ADUSX4.

Thanks

Tim

 

2004 Monaco Dynasty

4569EFC1-3050-4DEB-BA2E-6B14E72D296D.jpeg

 

4 hours ago, Tim.dougherty@comcast.net said:

I have a question for those of you that know about these things. I have a Xantrex model RV2012 Inverter made in 2004 can I use this with the Fisher Paykel refrigerator?

I have decided on the FP because of the limitations associated with heater beneath the refrigerator, purchased model RF170ADUSX4.

Thanks

Tim

 

2004 Monaco Dynasty

4569EFC1-3050-4DEB-BA2E-6B14E72D296D.jpeg

EXcellent choice.


So far , so good
Flyinhy

This is the first full weekend I've been able to work on my executive since I bought it a month ago. I knew the drive train was in really good shape with only 53k miles on it. After a few days of tinkering with the generator , she sprung to life and ran great. I was, and still a little concerned with the electrical part of the coach. I had my fingers crossed on the electrical system and the transfer switch since the cover was off of it when I bought it. After installing a new 50 amp outlet on the side of my house I  nervously connected the coach to it and she started humming. I watched the house batteries go from 12v to 11v and everything shutdown. No ac voltage at all. I scrolled through my panel and turned on everything. I started checking voltage and breakers. Still nothing......showed no ac input on the readout. I let it sit for a few hours and ate lunch. When I started back on it, I reset the main in the bedroom. I hear "crackling" ....you know that unnerving electrical sound when a bad connection is sparking or jumping across two points? After about 20 minutes....everything popped to life all of a sudden. I couldn't believe my luck.  Everything works. 
Heat pump ✔ 
Hot water ✔ 
Thermostat ✔ 
Invertor ✔ 
Transfer switch ✔ 
Heated floor!!! 
I'm a happy camper!

I want to leave it plugged in for the week while I'm gone to work but I'm worried about that main breaker in the bedroom. Haven't had any problems but it  just didn't sound good earlier .......hasn't done it since.


Want a quality coach
Steven P

I know a lady whose husband just passed.  They have a Tiffin she's wanting $75k for.  She thinks it's around an 06. Last I saw it, it looks to be 40ft. Spanish Fort, AL


Anyone know what this is?
Paul A.
On 10/23/2021 at 5:25 PM, Corkman said:

Anyone know what this is? 

There is no glass on the gauge so I suspect it doesn't even work, but I guess I should know what it is 🙂

 

Thanks,

Bill142868988_Whatisthis.thumb.jpg.4cc037364a3dc44291ea36f53b8908c2.jpg

At 254" wheelbase, minor adjustment of the pressure on the tag will cause signifcant weight transfer from the tag to the drive. 

Look at the sales brochure for your coach here; https://www.monacocoach.com/luxury-rv-brochures?y=2001  You may want tp print that sales brochure. lots of great info there.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
dl_racing427
5 hours ago, vanwill52 said:

David, I'll look to see if I still have some pix.  It was very simple to do.

That would be awesome.  Simple is usually the best solution. 😀


So far , so good
JDCrow
2 hours ago, Flyinhy said:

This is the first full weekend I've been able to work on my executive since I bought it a month ago. I knew the drive train was in really good shape with only 53k miles on it. After a few days of tinkering with the generator , she sprung to life and ran great. I was, and still a little concerned with the electrical part of the coach. I had my fingers crossed on the electrical system and the transfer switch since the cover was off of it when I bought it. After installing a new 50 amp outlet on the side of my house I  nervously connected the coach to it and she started humming. I watched the house batteries go from 12v to 11v and everything shutdown. No ac voltage at all. I scrolled through my panel and turned on everything. I started checking voltage and breakers. Still nothing......showed no ac input on the readout. I let it sit for a few hours and ate lunch. When I started back on it, I reset the main in the bedroom. I hear "crackling" ....you know that unnerving electrical sound when a bad connection is sparking or jumping across two points? After about 20 minutes....everything popped to life all of a sudden. I couldn't believe my luck.  Everything works. 
Heat pump ✔ 
Hot water ✔ 
Thermostat ✔ 
Invertor ✔ 
Transfer switch ✔ 
Heated floor!!! 
I'm a happy camper!

I want to leave it plugged in for the week while I'm gone to work but I'm worried about that main breaker in the bedroom. Haven't had any problems but it  just didn't sound good earlier .......hasn't done it since.

Congrats! The breakers are super easy to replace. When you take the surround off (after disconnecting all ac/dc) you can change the breaker if you want and tighten up all the leads. Look for any neutral (white) wires that have browning (burnt) ends. Will give you an idea if you have a short in a circuit. I’m no expert, but fought one of my GFIC circuits with a Loose neutral 

 

 


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