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Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/586-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

So far , so good
Dr4Film
So far , so good
pennzo
So far , so good
Dr4Film
So far , so good
JDCrow
Front end alignment
Steven
Driver seat lever
Ivylog
Front end alignment
Ivylog
Front end alignment
SigPIlot
Front end alignment
jacwjames
Front end alignment
DavidL
Sharp Microwave being replaced
DavidL
So far , so good
jacwjames
Audio upgrades
DavidL
Anyone know what this is?
Corkman
Front end alignment
Steven
Anyone know what this is?
Frank Bergamo
Dynasty Docking Lights
JayBird
So far , so good
Flyinhy
Front end alignment
Jerry Ellis
Anyone know what this is?
Corkman
Front end alignment
redstickbill
So far , so good
cbr046
Anyone know what this is?
redstickbill
Looking for help! Again…
tact50
Changing out Norcold to Fisher Paykel residential
Tim.dougherty@comcast.net
Batteries
MrAmbassador
Anyone know what this is?
Frank Bergamo
Starter/ignition sometimes not connecting
Gary 05 AMB DST
Front end alignment
jacwjames
So far , so good
Flyinhy
So far , so good
Dr4Film
Driver seat lever
vito.a
Beltline Trim
RBRODDER
Beltline Trim
BobSchmeck
98 Dynasty headlight upgrade
tomevansfl
Bedroom slide
Flyinhy
Bedroom slide
Flyinhy

New Posts

So far , so good
Dr4Film

If it were me I would not trust the integrity of the electrical system after hearing sounds like you described. I especially would not leave the coach powered up with you gone away.

As suggested by the previous poster, I would open up the main power panel and inspect the wiring, check and re-torque all of the connections. I would also open up the transfer switch and do the same.

What brand of transfer switch do you have?

Also do you have a Progressive Industries EMS wired in-line prior to the transfer switch? If not then I would strongly suggest you invest in one.


So far , so good
pennzo

We had a Progressive Industries 50A portable box and used it each and every time we plugged in to any outlet. They are an invaluable resource to have.   Wouldn't use our Coach w/o it.  👍


So far , so good
Dr4Film
4 minutes ago, pennzo said:

We had a Progressive Industries 50A portable box and used it each and every time we plugged in to any outlet. They are an invaluable resource to have.   Wouldn't use our Coach w/o it.  👍

Eddie,

Portable or a hard-wired one, both are excellent providing that they are the EMS versions and not just a "surge protector". The EMS versions will sever the power to your coach protecting it from any power conditions that could harm your coach.


So far , so good
JDCrow

Installed a Watch Dog in ours, and this week the house we are renting has a 30 amp receptacle and I wanted to keep the fridge running. The plug has power on the neutral and the Watch Dog wouldn’t wouldn’t connect. So it saved my coach from potential damage.

02BB6262-C9A2-498E-A474-80CE2629B27C.jpeg

6F85A0E6-A03C-46DF-8FF1-80B503D1B907.jpeg


Front end alignment
Steven

Hello all,

Does anyone know who can do a  front end alignment on my 2004 Monaco 40DST? I am in Birmingham and every shop I spoke with said their computer machine does not have the spec's.

 

Thanks,

Steve.


Driver seat lever
Ivylog

I would wrap the metal lever with 3” wide, hopefully black tape, even making it stick out at the top as you wrap multiple layers. If not black tape, paint it black when done. She’ll learn how to use it.


Front end alignment
Ivylog

The only easy adjustment is “toe in” on a solid front axle. On car tires I jack the tire up and mark a line on the tread as I spin the tire so I can measure the distance between… front and back. You want 1/8” in.

On truck tires, I find a raised rib or edge on the side of the tire near the tread and measure those distances. I like 3/16 toe in on that big of a tire. Two people can check this in 3 minutes.


Front end alignment
SigPIlot

See if there is a josamusa near enough to get to. They handle the big chassis like rvs. My rig is there now for air system work but I have had them do alignment and chassis integrity check - the shake test! 


Front end alignment
jacwjames

The specs for my coach are in my manual.

When I bought our coach in 2008 the front tires had a bad wear pattern and a there was a vibration in the front end.  First thing I did was have new tires installed and then an alignment.  I called Buddy Gregg in Knoxville and asked them about an alignment and they gave me the name of the shop they uses, which was in Knoxville.  I took it there and they checked and confirmed a problem. Not sure if they had specs or just based in on the make/model of the axle.  They actually had to bend the front axle, I watched from the lounge they had.  Not sure exactly how much they had to do but after the the rig drove straight and true.  I put +50K miles on that set of tires and the tread still looked like new when I replace. 

Call a large RV dealer near you and ask for a recommendation. 


Front end alignment
DavidL

sounds like there is limited adjustment potential.  Why the alignment?  Hit something?  Is it pulling to one side?  Steering wheel off center?

If none of the above, a simple eyeball with a tape measure and string by someone experienced should confirm that all is likely good.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
vanwill52
11 hours ago, dl_racing427 said:

That would be awesome.  Simple is usually the best solution. 😀

David, check your private messages.  Send me your personal email address and cell number.  I've got something for you.


Sharp Microwave being replaced
DavidL

good job.  Those original receptacles are garbage.  I would consider replacing all of them  because if they haven't melted or have loose connections, they will.

The single outlet was so you don't plug something else in and overtax the circuit.  The microwave probably pulls almost what the circuit is rated for so anything else on the same will over tax the circuit.  Plug a childproof cover on the unused outlet as a reminder to all to not use that outlet for anything.  Too easy for someone to plug a toaster into it with the plan to not use both at the same time, and then for someone to flip on the microwave while you are making some toast and there goes the breaker / wire.


So far , so good
jacwjames

Agree with Richard,

I would not feel comfortable until I found the source of the popping and cracking, definitely not normal and a recipe for disaster.   I would check every outlet and make sure you have power.  If you take the cover off the main and inverter panel you can do a visual on the wiring inside each panel, looking for burnt areas or chaffed wires.  It will be harder to see behind the panels you might look at buying a cheap phone inspection camera  https://www.ebay.com/itm/264797559966?hash=item3da72a1c9e:g:6ucAAOSwcLBfClPA 

I'd be checking behind the panels and any place else you can get to. 

Do you see any evidence of mice/rodents.  Partially chewed wires could have been arching.  They may not be touching now but once you start driving down the road the vibration/bouncing will bring them back together.

 


Audio upgrades
DavidL

Know that the speakers are the biggest difference in sound quality.  So, get the largest drivers that will fit your given area (especially the subwoofer).  Size isn't certainly the only criteria but it's fundamental.

If you have a smaller budget, then replacing only the speakers will sound better than replacing all with marginal equipment.  You HAVE to have a budget for recommendations.  If you have $500K in mind, that's one thing.  If you have $200, that's completely different.  If you have $10K, that's another.   So, what's the budget.  There ALWAYS is one.

The next major criteria is where will speakers be, and what are the physical constraints for driver size and back box size and mounting to ensure no vibration transmission and certainly so stuff doesn't fall apart on rough roads.

Then ensure you have enough watts from the amp to drive those speakers to the sound pressure you want to listen to.  ie: some people never listen to the system "loud" and others like to crank it and rock the bus.  If the former, not many watts are required.  You just don't want the amp to "clip" which ruins the sound quality (and the longevity of the speakers).  Choose good brand names to simplify getting decent stuff.  So many brands are out there that are cheap but don't last and have crazy overrated specs (like watts and THD).  Steer away from amps that have zillions of advertised watts - because they don't and that's indicative that the hardware is garbage.

Note that an EQ is really there to compensate for a not so good system.  The better the components, the more natural the sound will be which eliminates the need to EQ.   EQ adds another noise source into the system. 

If you notice, I have a 12volt "mobile" system (the in dash Joying / Hifonics / speakers) system and the Denon based systems for general use when on 110volts (including on generator).  Which are you trying to upgrade?

For 110volt, Denon sounds like a perfect balance of features, capability, price, good brand name.  Make sure whatever you buy will physically fit and decide if you have to alter bezels etc to make something fit nicely.  Ensure you have ventilation.

The Denon has an included microphone to automatically setup the system for delay, volume balance all channels which makes that easy.  "Audessey" is their product name for that capability.

You might be able to reuse all of your wiring.  The biggest change was going from component video wiring to HDMI for the 110v system's TVs.  If you are on HDMI, then you are good.  If not, then lots will change to modernize the system.  Mine needed all of those upgrades so everything was gutted, rewired and replaced.  but I did all of the rewiring when the coach was completely apart for a rebuild.

Lots more info will be available on myServer when I can get around to writing that up.  http://allonis.com


Anyone know what this is?
Corkman

Thanks


Front end alignment
Steven

I need to have my drag link and steering shaft replaced because of knocking in steering column when going over bumps. The shop has diagnosed the problem. They do not have the spec's for allignment.

Thanks....


Anyone know what this is?
Frank Bergamo

It also affects the steer axle. It is very easy to overload the steer axle, so make sure you get all 3 axle weights to know exactly where you are at on axle weights. Hope this helps.


Dynasty Docking Lights
JayBird

Just saw this post and wanted to offer my experience.  I have the same lights on a 2006 Dynasty and I was able to replace the halogens with LED's quite easily.  A couple tricks... Once you unscrew the fixture from the coach, you need to remove the silicon sealant used to cover the screws that hold the fixture together.  You can just dig it out with a knife tip or something similar.  You can then get to the bulb.  I  installed H3 30-SMD 4014 LED bulbs purchased on Amazon. $12.11 for two. I had to slightly enlarge the bulb opening to accommodate the LED.  Rotary file on a drill did the trick.  Didn't take much.  The bulb is held in by two screws and is prewired with connectors.  No splicing, etc. required. Be sure to re-silicone the case screw heads  before reinstalling the fixture on the coach.   I was also able to clean the lenses.  The total cost of the project was the price of the bulbs and some sealant.  Result was better than new and twice as bright. Good luck.


So far , so good
Flyinhy
4 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

What brand of transfer switch do you have?

Esco.....I'm just assuming this was the replacement for the IOTA. Looks pretty new. The invertor was replaced 11/2017........20211023_112249.thumb.jpg.b9f80b0bbb8321436832e499d87cb4ed.jpg20211023_074500.thumb.jpg.471693e2efa41560dc6af441ea11b5b9.jpg20211023_074527.thumb.jpg.7689530e23352a9e5c5471f43b94bccd.jpg1635070569228.thumb.JPEG.5ab176cfbffbae417dd45308bc831d18.JPEG

44 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

Agree with Richard,

I would not feel comfortable until I found the source of the popping and cracking, definitely not normal and a recipe for disaster.   I would check every outlet and make sure you have power.  If you take the cover off the main and inverter panel you can do a visual on the wiring inside each panel, looking for burnt areas or chaffed wires.  It will be harder to see behind the panels you might look at buying a cheap phone inspection camera  https://www.ebay.com/itm/264797559966?hash=item3da72a1c9e:g:6ucAAOSwcLBfClPA 

I'd be checking behind the panels and any place else you can get to. 

Do you see any evidence of mice/rodents.  Partially chewed wires could have been arching.  They may not be touching now but once you start driving down the road the vibration/bouncing will bring them back 

Several outlets are missing and the one for the microwave is sketchy at best. Funny you say that about mice.......Alvin or one of the chipmunks had taken up residence in the rear bay where the water tanks are....but I haven't seen any damage. 


Front end alignment
Jerry Ellis

Hi Steven,

As someone mentioned, check the chassis section of your manual as I found the specs for mine there. I called the local Cummins Coach Care facility who gave me a referral to a shop they send their customers to for alignments. I lucked out and got a good shop but at a minimum I would expect them to have the resources to take care of your problem. 

Coach Care

2200 Old Pinson Highway
Birmingham, ALABAMA 35217
205 841-0421

 

Jerry


Changing out Norcold to Fisher Paykel residential
cbr046

Dynasty must be taller ceiling than Dip / Endeavor.  Don't think it'll fit over my furnace . . . . 😞

- bob


Anyone know what this is?
Corkman

How do I know the correct tag axle load/weight?

Can the truck scales weight my rear axle and tag axle separately?


Front end alignment
redstickbill

Steven,

The only place east of the Mississippi river that I would and do use is Josams Frame and Alignment in Orlando, FL., 407-438-7020, ask for Barry.

They have done the alignment on my coaches and replaced the drag link on the 2004 Endeavor that I had. Took about a week to get the drag link.

Bill B 07 Dynasty


So far , so good
cbr046

You can touch the body of each breaker to see if it's warm to the touch, which would be a loose or resistive connection inside the breaker.  Maybe flip off-on several times to see if it consistently turns back on.  Still, that crackling . . . . sketchy.  And critters?  😮  I watched a house burn beyond re-construction, had to get my buddy's mom out.  The only thing we could figure was squirrels in the attic chewing on wires.  Hate critters. 

- bob


Anyone know what this is?
redstickbill

Corkman,

Yes, truck scales will give you a read out that shows each axle weight.

Bill B 07 Dynasty


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow

Well fab shop was a bust. Not sure how this guy gets anything done. Shop is hoarded up with all his personal garage stuff. 
 

Have a mobile fab guy looking at it. It made it down here so put the steering saftey and sway bar on and keep it at 55

Tires showed up 5 days late. So now so get to spend 5 hours today driving to go fetch them

3DE23DC3-2815-4847-B816-FD6BFB865E08.jpeg


Starter/ignition sometimes not connecting
tact50

Our ignition/starter is often not connecting and is requiring multiple attempts to turn it on. It seems to be getting worse ( requires more attempts) before turning over and starting. 
 

This is for our Monaco Dynasty ‘94 with a Cummins Diesel pusher. 

When it does connect it starts right up! 

Our fear is that one day she won’t start. Any suggestions? We have been so appreciative to everyone’s help in the past.
 

Thank you

Ted


Looking for help! Again…
tact50

We figured out our fix for the solution thanks for everyone’s help! It was as simple as requiring a reset of the gas detector located inside of the coach! You guys and gals are Lifesavers. 
 

we are enjoying our trip with smooth sailing for the most part! Elton is having a blast either way. 


Changing out Norcold to Fisher Paykel residential
Tim.dougherty@comcast.net

I'll have to drop down the platform on the bottom very close to the furnace and cut an inch off the top trim, but it will fit.


Starter/ignition sometimes not connecting
JDCrow

The key or the actual starter? Mine key (ignition) fell apart literally 10 mins ago. I have a spare I need to put in today 


Batteries
MrAmbassador

We bought our batteries at “Battery Guys” they were very helpful and prompt delivery. The batteries have performed an excellent manner.  Here is the link:

https://batteryguys.com/collections/application-rv-marine


Anyone know what this is?
Frank Bergamo

Most of the big truck stops have 3 platform scales that will weight each axle separately. After weighing look at your placard behind and to the left of the driver seat. It will give you maximum weight amounts for each axle. Then adjust tag regulator to stay under max weight of each axle. It will take several attempts at weighing to achieve desired results. More tag regulator pressure increases weight on steer axle and tag axle, decreases weight on drive axle. Less pressure on tag regulator decreases weight on steer axle and tag axle, increases weight on drive axle. Hope this helps.


Starter/ignition sometimes not connecting
Gary 05 AMB DST
28 minutes ago, tact50 said:

Our ignition/starter is often not connecting and is requiring multiple attempts to turn it on. It seems to be getting worse ( requires more attempts) before turning over and starting. 
 

This is for our Monaco Dynasty ‘94 with a Cummins Diesel pusher. 

When it does connect it starts right up! 

Our fear is that one day she won’t start. Any suggestions? We have been so appreciative to everyone’s help in the past.
 

Thank you

Ted

Ted, my ignition switch was turning in the dash hole and being hard to start. The plastic dash notches just wore away. I jumped the wires with a starter button for starting. Now I just turn the switch to on and push the button. Reminds me of our 50's cars.

Gary 05 AMB DST


Front end alignment
jacwjames

Here is a link to you manual, I would down load this and go through it to learn what it covers.  I'll still pull mine out on a trip to refresh my memory.

https://www.monacocoach.com/resources/media/manuals/2004_Windsor.pdf

On page 438 it has the start of the front axle description.  and on page 441 it has the various specs for the left and right tire. 


So far , so good
Flyinhy
3 hours ago, cbr046 said:

You can touch the body of each breaker to see if it's warm to the touch, which would be a loose or resistive connection inside the breaker.  Maybe flip off-on several times to see if it consistently turns back on.  Still, that crackling . . . . sketchy.  And critters?  😮  I watched a house burn beyond re-construction, had to get my buddy's mom out.  The only thing we could figure was squirrels in the attic chewing on wires.  Hate critters. 

- bob

So, what you're saying is......I need more than one fire extinguisher? 🔥 


Anyone know where to get Seat switches/controls?
Corkman

Anyone know where to get Seat switches/controls?

This one is from the drivers seats, seems to only work when it feels like it 🙂

 

Drivers Seat Switch.jpg


Anyone know where to get Seat switches/controls?
Will52

I would take the switch out and see if an Auto parts store and try to match it up. Most 6 way switches are all similar. Maybe a part # on the back? Flexsteel?

 


So far , so good
Dr4Film
6 hours ago, jacwjames said:

Agree with Richard,

I would not feel comfortable until I found the source of the popping and cracking, definitely not normal and a recipe for disaster.   I would check every outlet and make sure you have power.  If you take the cover off the main and inverter panel you can do a visual on the wiring inside each panel, looking for burnt areas or chaffed wires.  It will be harder to see behind the panels you might look at buying a cheap phone inspection camera  https://www.ebay.com/itm/264797559966?hash=item3da72a1c9e:g:6ucAAOSwcLBfClPA 

I'd be checking behind the panels and any place else you can get to. 

Do you see any evidence of mice/rodents.  Partially chewed wires could have been arching.  They may not be touching now but once you start driving down the road the vibration/bouncing will bring them back together.

 

This is the Inspection Camera that I purchased from Amazon. It does an awesome job!

https://tinyurl.com/xwwt5m87


Driver seat lever
vito.a

Monaco used Villa International furniture in diesel coaches.  

Call and ask for Mike. Phone: (562) 404-8111

Villa International

13760 Midway St, Cerritos, CA 90703


Thin-lite porch light replacement lens
Stevve

Thanks to all. Did find a replacement online.

Lots of amber color not many clear.

 


Beltline Trim
RBRODDER
On 10/22/2021 at 10:16 PM, BobSchmeck said:

You need to have a picture from the end. It looks like the same stuff that I have.  If it is it has a little flag on 1 side, and the other side has a cup on the other side. Sorry I don't have the order with me. Its at home and I won't be back for other week. I  found the stuff at RV Renovators in mesa az & at La Mesa rv in mesa az. La Mesa had it in almond. RV Renovators had it in white. It was running in the $3.60 a foot range. The stuff I found was quite a bit lighter a was around $60 for a 50ft roll. Wish that I would have gotten the heavier stuff. But it's working just fine. When I get home I'll find the order an send it.  

I made a video on how to fix it.  If your interested.  

Problems that I ran into. Dissimilar metals corrode. So using stainless steel  or steel screws when you have a aluminum roof & frame will cause you major problems in the future.  You need to use aluminum rivets.  

Bob, here are a couple pictures of the end profile as it wraps around the rear lower panel of the coach. First picture is of the passenger side and seems a little deformed, next two shots are of the drivers side.

20211025_163200.jpg

20211025_163355.jpg

20211025_163359.jpg


Beltline Trim
BobSchmeck
21 minutes ago, RBRODDER said:

Bob, here are a couple pictures of the end profile as it wraps around the rear lower panel of the coach. First picture is of the passenger side and seems a little deformed, next two shots are of the drivers side.

20211025_163200.jpg

20211025_163355.jpg

20211025_163359.jpg

Yep. Thats the same thing that we have. We should be home Wednesday sometime.  Will get you the information Thursday or Friday. 


98 Dynasty headlight upgrade
tomevansfl
On 10/22/2021 at 10:57 AM, JDCrow said:

You are correct on the E series van. I just did mine, but not sure what is “economical” to one is a necessity  to another.

Anywau, turned out great and can see a long, long ways out now. 

67DC28B3-6281-4489-A6CC-EA70C126CC94.jpeg

Nice looking upgrade.  Where did you get them? I am looking for a projector style similar to the ones you have. 

By economical, I'm not looking to spend $400 each.  I have seen them at that price and really didn't like them.  I don't like to drive at night so I'm looking more at aesthetics, I guess.  Just want to make the old girl look fresher.


Anyone know where to get Seat switches/controls?
DrDon4u

If your handy, I would carefully take it apart and clean the contacts. Can't be that hard.


Bedroom slide
Flyinhy

I've been working on the coach for a few weeks now and I had a question about slide parts. The bedroom slide switch  has been bypassed and it's now located on the bed slide itself. I have to unlock the motor everytime I slide this thing out. Looking at the schematics and then looking under the front part of the bed....there's a circuit board that's been bypassed. Can you still get these parts? I guess I'm old fashioned and I like things to work the way they were designed to work. Just wondering if anyone has had to replace that board before.


Bedroom slide
Flyinhy

Sorry....posted twice. How do you delete a post?


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