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Monacoers Daily Digest


Scotty Hutto
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Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily digest for *|date|*

To view this on the web click here: https://www.monacoers.org/newsletters/issue/587-monacoers-daily-digest/.  To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.

Hello *|member_name|*, 

Here's what the Monacoers were talking about yesterday:

 

Index

So far , so good
Dr4Film
Front end alignment
Captwheel
So far , so good
Steven P
So far , so good
BigNick
So far , so good
JDCrow
Anyone know what this is?
georgecederholm
ABS light came on
weighman695
Sharp Microwave being replaced
thomasgibbens
Anyone know what this is?
Gary Petersen
Anyone know what this is?
georgecederholm
ABS light came on
Mike in Va
Bedroom slide
jacwjames
loose mirror glass
derylehinson
loose mirror glass
gregolson65@yahoo.com
Beltline Trim
Ivan K
loose mirror glass
Dwight Lindsey
ABS light came on
Ivan K
loose mirror glass
gregolson65@yahoo.com
loose mirror glass
derylehinson
Roadside Assistance Suggestions
Bill R
Roadside Assistance Suggestions
JDCrow
Roadside Assistance Suggestions
just_john1
ABS light came on
RoadTripper2084
Roadside Assistance Suggestions
David Pratt
Roadside Assistance Suggestions
Wrayj1
loose mirror glass
Dwight Lindsey
Roadside Assistance Suggestions
Ron Jones
Roadside Assistance Suggestions
SigPIlot
Roadside Assistance Suggestions
BobSchmeck
Anyone know what this is?
96 EVO
Roadside Assistance Suggestions
Dennis-C
loose mirror glass
Gary Cole
Roadside Assistance Suggestions
Dr4Film
ABS light came on
Ivan K
Roadside Assistance Suggestions
BobSchmeck

New Posts

How to Block up a Signature 40 chassis for HWH servicing
jjroxus

Hello,

I need to service My HWH manifolds/six-packs/pressure valves, aux compressor,etc.  I have been reading a lot of good info here on troubleshooting issues, finding and repairing leaks and replacing components in the HWH system.  It is always mentioned to block up the chassis before going under the coach to work on it.  I need some insight on how you guys did the blocking to give you room to work and protect yourself and the coach.   I dumped my air bags today and slid under for a quick look and soon realized there's no room to work when the air bags are deflated, especially where the rear manifolds are located above the drive axle.  What procedure did you follow and where did you put the blocking material?  What materials did you use to block it up.

Thank You,

JJ

2002 Signature 40

 


Changing out Norcold to Fisher Paykel residential
hitechpete
On 10/24/2021 at 11:36 PM, David White said:

Tim, I think your question should be whether or not the FP can be used with a modified sine inverter, which I think you have. Maybe the info is in the manual or might require a call to FP to ask that question. 

Several owners on this site have used the FP with happy results, so maybe the users can come in to answer the question.

I opted for a Samsung and it could be run on MS inverters, but I add a separate pure sine 1200 to handle the fridge.  It has a automatic transfer switch to go between shore power/ generator and batteries if not on a AC source. This was a much less expensive option than changing out the existing inverter.

Could I ask what make of inverter you purchased please?


So far , so good
Dr4Film
22 hours ago, JDCrow said:

Installed a Watch Dog in ours, and this week the house we are renting has a 30 amp receptacle and I wanted to keep the fridge running. The plug has power on the neutral and the Watch Dog wouldn’t wouldn’t connect. So it saved my coach from potential damage.

JD,

Those "30 amp" 220 amp receptacles have destroyed many electrical components and devices of owners across this country. Good thing your Watch Dog was watching over your coach.

What is the warranty that Hughes gives on this unit?

Is this Hughes Watch Dog field serviceable or does the entire unit have to be shipped back for service, repair or replacement?


Changing out Norcold to Fisher Paykel residential
David White
1 hour ago, hitechpete said:

Could I ask what make of inverter you purchased please?

The one I used was Power Bright, but was very similar to this AIMS unit:

image.thumb.png.bd16e2ec8c3d4d304872453352d444c5.png


How to Block up a Signature 40 chassis for HWH servicing
SteveC
6 hours ago, jjroxus said:

Hello,

I need to service My HWH manifolds/six-packs/pressure valves, aux compressor,etc.  I have been reading a lot of good info here on troubleshooting issues, finding and repairing leaks and replacing components in the HWH system.  It is always mentioned to block up the chassis before going under the coach to work on it.  I need some insight on how you guys did the blocking to give you room to work and protect yourself and the coach.   I dumped my air bags today and slid under for a quick look and soon realized there's no room to work when the air bags are deflated, especially where the rear manifolds are located above the drive axle.  What procedure did you follow and where did you put the blocking material?  What materials did you use to block it up.

Thank You,

JJ

2002 Signature 40

6 hours ago, jjroxus said:

JJ, on my 2000 Signature I use 4X6 treated lumber cut to length and placed between the frame and the suspension inside behind the front wheel and in front of the rear dual. I raised the coach as high as it would go and measured the gap. Cut my boards to be about an inch less than the gap. The boards sit solidly on the corner of the suspension frame. 

 

 

 


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Bob Nodine

JD, have you checked the alignment of your rear axle? Often the rear axle is not square and perpendicular to the direction of travel and will cause a constant pull either left or right. I mention this because you made a comment about the coach not wanting to go straight. On a level and straight road you should be able to turn loose of the steering wheel and the coach should continue straight.

Bob

 

Van,

Hope Sandy is OK.

Bob

 


Front end alignment
Captwheel

Check this website

https://mdalign.com/

For a remote alignment center that uses Mike's system. They specialize in big trucks. 


So far , so good
Steven P
16 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

This is the Inspection Camera that I purchased from Amazon. It does an awesome job!

https://tinyurl.com/xwwt5m87

I like that camera.  Have you gotten used to using it.  Likes, dislikes?  I've been thinking about getting one. 


Changing out Norcold to Fisher Paykel residential
jacwjames

I installed a Samsung RF18, which is taller then the Fisher Paykal,  I had to remove the existing platform and drop the furnace to the floor to gain enough height.  Instead of installing a new platform I used conduit strut material and brackets from Lowes and made two separate stands the aligned with the rollers under the refrigerator,  I have ~1/2" from the top of the furnace to the fridge, I did not have to trim any of the upper portion of the cabinet.  Here's a post I did on IRV2.com https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/samsung-install-finally-done-461001.html

 

Finally got to give the new fridge a good test on a trip this summer, worked will with my Trace MSW inverter, battery consumption was low.  I could top the batteries off at night with the generator to ~90%, go to bed, and still have ~75% battery left if I was boon docking.  When I was in ND temps got to 105F and the Samsung performed flawlessly, even with the sun beating down on that side of the coacch.  I was running both AC's and my cabin temps were 85F, not fun but I survived. 

On the last leg of my trip I had a problem with the electrical system, the generator would not run while both inverter breakers in the subpanel were on.  I got by by driving to my last destinations, the generator would power the AC's and 120 volt outlet behind the fridge which I used to get by until I could home and fix my problem.  Turned out to be one of the inverted circuits showed a dead short in the wiring in the ceiling, I was able to reroute wiring to bypass the bad section and get all outlets in the bedroom and bath working.

When I lost use of the inverter/charger I decided to add a second inverter/charger as a backup.  Bill G had done something similar using the block heat circuit and recommended this inverter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E3V66ZE?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

I installed mine a little different, since I had the main service panel completely out of my bedroom cabinet it provided me access to fix the above problem but also modify the 120 volt refrigerator circuit for use with the inverter.  I installed a shelf for the inverter in the TV box in the bedroom, I had already installed a LED TV wihich open up the cabinet for storage.  I installed a shelf ~9" down from the ceiling (recommended clearance for inverter).  I then installed an outlet off the refrigerator circuit and added a extension cord & plug to the wire going to the outlet behind the refrigerator.  I then installed the inverter and used a power strip to plug into and a piece of extension cord to plug the inverter into the outlet I installed in the cabinet.   Behind the main service panel were a lug for #2 cable coming from passenger side electrical compartment, this provides power to the 12 volt fuse panel in the bedroom.  I used this lug and ran wires + & - for the inverter, I installed a battery disconnect to be able cut power to the inverter when not in use. 

So if I have if I want I can run the refrigerator from the new inverter simply by moving the plugs and can also used the new inverter/charger to augment the original inverter/charger.  If one or the other craps out I will not be stranded. 


So far , so good
BigNick

My coach has the Xantrex SW3012, its a pretty solid unit. All kinds of adjustments you can make from the control panel. 


So far , so good
JDCrow
2 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

JD,

Those "30 amp" 220 amp receptacles have destroyed many electrical components and devices of owners across this country. Good thing your Watch Dog was watching over your coach.

What is the warranty that Hughes gives on this unit?

Is this Hughes Watch Dog field serviceable or does the entire unit have to be shipped back for service, repair or replacement?

Yeah it’s the first time it went to red so was both surprised and relived.

From the horse’s mouth:

Warranty & Registration

For original purchasers within the continental United States, the Hughes Autoformer (HA) Voltage Boosters shall be free of manufacturing defects for a period of three years from date of purchase. The Power Watchdog Surge Protectors have a Limited Lifetime Warranty. The other ‘accessory’ items have a 1 year warranty.

In the rare case that a defect is discovered, all parts and labor costs will be covered by HA. Product must be returned to the factory at purchaser’s expense, along with check or money order for return freight (the current amount will be advised). HAF will repair or replace the product at its discretion if it finds it has failed in normal use due to a defect in materials or workmanship.

Operating the product under conditions other than those recommended or attempting to service or modify the product will render this warranty void.

HA shall not be liable for personal injury, incidental or consequential damages of any kind resulting from malfunctioning, defect, misuse, improper installation or alterations of the product.

This warranty gives you specific rights, and you may have other rights, which vary from state to state.

In order for your warranty to be valid, you must register your Hughes Autoformer Product. To register your product you will need the following information: model and serial number, and where it was purchased.

 

And it looks like you can replace the surge module yourself

 

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Hughes-Autoformers/HU38FR.html

 

 


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
1 hour ago, Bob Nodine said:

JD, have you checked the alignment of your rear axle? Often the rear axle is not square and perpendicular to the direction of travel and will cause a constant pull either left or right. I mention this because you made a comment about the coach not wanting to go straight. On a level and straight road you should be able to turn loose of the steering wheel and the coach should continue straight.

Bob

 

Van,

Hope Sandy is OK.

Bob

 

I had the front aligned, but the shop did not have ability to aligned the rear. 


How to Block up a Signature 40 chassis for HWH servicing
Nevada Rob

I drive mine up on wood ramps I made. I stacked 2x8 cut at different lengths to make a ramp for each tire. I stacked  a total of 5 levels for a total of 7 1/2” of raised minimum level. That way if the suspension system is completely dropped no mater what happens nothing gets pinched or squished, including me. This is just my way and there is always more than one way to get something done.


How to Block up a Signature 40 chassis for HWH servicing
jjroxus

Glad to hear about your ramp. 

I must be on the right track.  I tried a similar thing using 2x12's last week.  I was trying to raise the front end of the coach.  I had a problem with the boards sliding away.  I screwed the stack together and still had one side that slipped forward when I drove up on them.  I started out with a board length of six feet and reduced the length on each step. I have five 2 x 12's in the stack.  I set it up in steps about 7 to 10" on each side.

As I thought about, could my tire pressure make a difference?  I checked the side that was slipping away and it was 15lbs down from the side that was not slipping.   I got that front tire pumped up now.   So today I will give it a try again. 

How did you setup your board stack and what lengths did you use?  Have you used this for the rear dual tires to raise the back?

Thanks,

JJ

2002 Monaco Signature 40 Centurion


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
vanwill52
3 hours ago, Bob Nodine said:

Van,

Hope Sandy is OK.

Bob

 

Thanks, Bob.  She is really having a tough time.  Trigeminal Neuralgia is such a rare condition (one in 15,000) that very few practitioners in the entire country have any experience with it.  The pain is excruciating.  If you Google "suicide disease", Trigeminal Neuralgia pops up.


Anyone know what this is?
georgecederholm

If you do choose to increase the tag pressure (weighing with motorcycle on board strongly recommended), it might make sense to check the specs on the pressure valve. Our 2005 Exec, either due to design on the 45 PBQ floor plan and/or the way we load things, requires about 60-65 PSI in the tag to get the front axle weight in line. I found our original tag regulator was only rated for 0-50 PSI, which explained why it constantly leaked air. I replaced it with a Watts 0-125 PSI regulator, which came with a new gauge, and haven’t had an issue since.

The floor plan and coach length can make a big difference to how much the tag needs to be loaded. Ours has a lighter generator up front (10k vs 12.5k), the washer/dryer aft of the bed, 8 house batteries instead of the original 4, and the chassis batteries right inside the engine compartment door. Plus, it has the Detroit Diesel option which I believe adds quite a bit of weight to the back over the ISM. That’s why everyone else’s experience might not directly translate, and why getting at least axle weights for individual motorhomes loaded for travel is so important.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow

So the fab for moving Watts isn't going to happen till we get home. That’s ok as we were under a time crunch and really I wouldn’t trust just anyone, so we will power on.

I’ll be adding the safety steer back on as it got us here, and it will take us home. I’ll install the front sway bar as an added bonus, I’ll report it I really notice anything with it. 
 

New rear tires got installed. Really great guy with a mobile set up. He has a fixed location in Parker, and uses the mobile to hit Havasu and the Desert areas. 
 

Thanks everyone here for your help and input. 
 

Question on air pressure:

I always check air pressure before I leave, every time. 
 

I run 95 front and 105 rear based on the weights from the scales. 
When I left Yuma a week ago, it was hit outside and all the tires were at 110 psi, so o dropped them to my normal “cold” pressure. Was this a mistake? It’s the first time for me in the heat with tires and got to thinking maybe my wandering was amplified with my air pressure. Any advise on what I should have done?

9598210C-4591-4DCF-9992-173D8CB283AA.jpeg

08DD2A79-D458-4060-B6F1-92F5CC0C79A4.jpeg

8B4C26AC-64FF-4CB1-BAE2-8DDE6262503A.jpeg

6595C063-EFF6-42D5-A692-5011866573AA.jpeg


ABS light came on
weighman695

Finally, I was able to drive around the coach for at lesst 11 miles and the ABS, ATC light went out.  The light came out as soon as I left my camp site.

 

Thank you very much to all who responded to my question regarding ABS/ATC indicator light.

 

 

To clarify, the ABS/ATC light went off as soon as I left my camp site.  Maybe about 50 feet from my camp site.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Cubflyer

>>>>>>>>>I run 95 front and 105 rear based on the weights from the scales. 
When I left Yuma a week ago, it was hit outside and all the tires were at 110 psi, so o dropped them to my normal “cold” pressure. Was this a mistake? It’s the first time for me in the heat with tires and got to thinking maybe my wandering was amplified with my air pressure. Any advise on what I should have done?<<<<<<<<<

 

That tire iron photo looks like all kinds of fun!!...

The weights on my axles (Front and Rear) work out to where my rear axle has about twice the weight as the front, so the two fronts pressure should be about 85-90psi and the same for the rear (based on the weight/tire pressure chart for my tires... Brand/model/size....) each tire carrying approx 4500 lbs of weight (9k front, 18k back axle weights)  I have experienced 'wandering/squirrely' driving vehicles when the tires were over-inflated, lowered the pressure and they tracked better...

I have a tire pressure monitor system and have found the tp's  go up between 10-15 psi when driving, so if you start high they get higher..... before I had the axle weights and was inflating the tires to 100-110 psi I was getting "over pressure warnings on my monitoring system.

 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R6H6T37/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ken

 


Sharp Microwave being replaced
thomasgibbens

There’s a fuse in the unit under the cover that likely blew. Might check it. 


Anyone know what this is?
Gary Petersen

In checking, I found that my regulator is broken and I need a replacement.

As per Georges suggestion above, I looked for a Watts 0-125 PSI. Those first described online are indicated for water use.

Does the regulator know if it is regulating water or air? Any recommendations for a specific replacement model?

2002' Sig


Anyone know what this is?
georgecederholm
14 minutes ago, Gary Petersen said:

In checking, I found that my regulator is broken and I need a replacement.

As per Georges suggestion above, I looked for a Watts 0-125 PSI. Those first described online are indicated for water use.

Does the regulator know if it is regulating water or air? Any recommendations for a specific replacement model?

2002' Sig

I could be wrong about the brand, since it was a while ago, but I think this is roughly equivalent.

https://www.amazon.com/Parker-14R118FC-Regulator-Relieving-Pressure/dp/B007FXJICQ/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=air%2Bregulator%2B1%2F4%2Bnpt%2B125%2Bpsi&qid=1635274352&qsid=143-1526941-0790323&sr=8-4&sres=B0081TJISW%2CB007FXJICQ%2CB07STNLFMS%2CB07STM6HGX%2CB01G2F6EMY%2CB01MDM25XT%2CB007FXK6FO%2CB07BRLXHHK%2CB073WWG91G%2CB008PZ6OWK%2CB0057D8LMY%2CB01BPQDG62%2CB016DB1XYG%2CB005JDKY68%2CB0142ALXTU%2CB07XYQJ19P&th=1


ABS light came on
Mike in Va

Weight695 I just read your question. I don't have a picture of the sensor. If you look on the back side of each wheel drum you should see a black plastic line with small wires inside It leading to the sensor. The sensor should be screwed Into the back of the brake drum. It should be easy to spot. Mike


Ride Height Not working in Front Properly
Corkman

Perhaps someone in this group has come across this problem before, but I'm at a loss as to what the problem is. I've followed through the HWH Service Manual Troubleshooting guide with no help from it either. In manual and automatic, all air bags work fine and hold air normally. When in travel mode the drivers front air bag seems to empty and the coach leans heavily to the left and down in front. This first happened on our trip and it was terrible to drive. As soon as you turn the brake off (and put in drive) it automatically goes in to travel mode. I would level everything fine but as soon as it went in the travel mode it let air out on the front driver’s side. I finally pulled the travel fuse for the front air bags and it stopped letting the air out of the front driver’s side so I could drive it. Each air bag works fine manually, and the "travel" solenoids for the front both have 12 volts when in the travel mode. I've even tried replacing both travel solenoids in the front, to no avail. The troubleshooting guide seems to indicate as long as the travel fuses are good, and I have 12 volts and grounds at the travel solenoid then the control box and wiring are fine. Also, there is only one front leveling solenoid, so if it failed, both front air bags would deflate.

I have a 2001 Monaco Dynasty 40 Queen with a tag and the 10 air bag suspension system.

Any ideas would be appreciated

Bill


Bedroom slide
jacwjames

If the circuit board is bypassed can you remove, take some pictures, and post them. 

You'll have better luck finding electrical components then mechanical parts.  I have a Dewald slide mechanism on my bedroom slide and was concerned about the gear box so I contacted Lippert, this was their reply.

I have investigated this and what I found is that the Dewald system was acquired by Power gear in 2007. Power gear continued the Dewald electric slide until 2011. We then acquired Power Gear in 2015. Unfortunately, at that point we no longer continued the product as it was already discontinued by Power Gear. We do still offer assistance when it comes to trouble shooting on the Dewald systems. However, for the most part when it comes to parts you will be looking to at an outside party i.e., Amazon, eBay, salvage yards. 

Luckily I did not find anything wrong with anything, put it all back together and it working.  The gear box is pretty heavy, all bronze gears and I saw no evidence of wear. 

 


loose mirror glass
derylehinson

The exterior mirror glass has come loose on my 2011 Dipolmat, and shakes while driving. I have it supported with duct tape until it can be repaired. Any info on how or where to get it repaired will be appreciated.

 


loose mirror glass
gregolson65@yahoo.com

Well. I have the same problem. And instead of trying to find a replacement ($900.00) or around that figure, I took my mirror off and removed all the pieces. I found that the mirror base frame inside the outside housing, was broken off the plastic. I used JB weld to fix the issue and it only lasted a couple months. I am going to have to try and use a better adhesive material next time.


Beltline Trim
Ivan K

This is what worked for me when I needed a new trim line. All from the same seller on ebay.

  As in the picture but I got it in white and painted to match. She sells both the aluminum strip and vinyl cover.

Trim.jpg


loose mirror glass
Dwight Lindsey

Deryle:

What mirror do you have?

In earlier coaches, the mirrors are probably RAMCO or VELVAC.  In a 2011 which I guess was Navistar era, I have no clue.  You should be able to find out by looking at the mirrors, or by looking at your build sheet or RV Data Card if you have them.

I have RAMCO mirrors.

I bought a new lower convex mirror glass, just the glass, not the whole mirror, from RAMCO:

www.ramco-eng.com

My replacement lower convex glass was SNP-GLS171-KIT.  It came with a snap on skirt, a small manual mechanism and screws.
https://shop.ramco-eng.com/collections/mirror-parts/products/snp-gls171-kit

$34.

Worked great.

If you have a RAMCO, as I do, you should call them, perhaps send them a picture of your mirror and they can guide you to the replacement part you need.

Dwight

 


ABS light came on
Ivan K

Glad it turned out not to be a problem. For illustration,  if you had disk brakes, the sensor would be hidden inside the rotor/hub assembly and needs to be almost touching the ring gear pressed into the hub. Sometimes they may slip back a tiny bit and need to be pushed back in and there is a code for it.

IMG_20200109_200959095.jpg

IMG_20200109_162528428.jpg


loose mirror glass
gregolson65@yahoo.com
loose mirror glass
derylehinson

Mine are Ramco . The mirrors are not broken, but they shake. You can tell the are loose in the frame. Probably glue has come loose that holds them to the adjustment

Motor.  I will contact Ramco, maybe they can help.    Thanks.    D.H.

 

 

 


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
3 hours ago, Cubflyer said:

>>>>>>>>>I run 95 front and 105 rear based on the weights from the scales. 
When I left Yuma a week ago, it was hit outside and all the tires were at 110 psi, so o dropped them to my normal “cold” pressure. Was this a mistake? It’s the first time for me in the heat with tires and got to thinking maybe my wandering was amplified with my air pressure. Any advise on what I should have done?<<<<<<<<<

 

That tire iron photo looks like all kinds of fun!!...

The weights on my axles (Front and Rear) work out to where my rear axle has about twice the weight as the front, so the two fronts pressure should be about 85-90psi and the same for the rear (based on the weight/tire pressure chart for my tires... Brand/model/size....) each tire carrying approx 4500 lbs of weight (9k front, 18k back axle weights)  I have experienced 'wandering/squirrely' driving vehicles when the tires were over-inflated, lowered the pressure and they tracked better...

I have a tire pressure monitor system and have found the tp's  go up between 10-15 psi when driving, so if you start high they get higher..... before I had the axle weights and was inflating the tires to 100-110 psi I was getting "over pressure warnings on my monitoring system.

 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R6H6T37/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ken

 

Thanks Ken, have you ever dropped to Cold pressure because your tires were over desired pressure when you started the day? 


Roadside Assistance Suggestions
Bill R

As a "Newbie" class A member I have been reading about tire blow outs/flats/breakdowns in areas far from help that require a mobile truck to bring a tire or part to repair the coach.   I want to make sure I have a good well reputable "Roadside Assistance" Program.  So I am asking for suggestions.  My Progressive policy says it had roadside assistance but upon further questioning it is really a car roadside policy.  They will only change out a flat tire if you have a spare, and they will only tow up to 15 miles before you pay yourself the additional mileage.  What a joke.  I have been looking at Good Sam Roadside assistance and it seems pretty good, not sure which package to choose though if I go with them.  Any suggestions for Good Sam or something else.  Thank you for all who can give me suggestions.


Roadside Assistance Suggestions
JDCrow

You will here a great many rave about Coach.net. They seem to have a great reputation.

Following a few different families on social media, I can see where having 2 different roadside companies in your pocket maybe wise. 
 

So I AAA RV and State Fame RV roadside. I haven’t looked into Coach.net as I already had These 2 


Roadside Assistance Suggestions
just_john1

Go with Coach Net. We are on a trip from hell. Started out and blew the driver steer. Coach Net found me a set of Michelins over 100 mi away. They were brought to us and changed on the high way.  About 6 days later we were headed to Portland and going up a grade and the engine quit. We go towed to Everett, WA. A tow to a Cummins dealer. of over 125 miles. They do all the work and or problems aren't over, but it sure isn't Coach Net's fault. As of right now they are the only thing that went right on this trip. I guess you could say I recommend them highly. You can read about our trip on this forum. Keep smiling.

Blow out2.JPG


ABS light came on
RoadTripper2084

FYI On my '97 Dynasty the ABS light stays on until you move forward faster than 5 mph, I think.

 


Roadside Assistance Suggestions
David Pratt

The best and most reliable service is Coach Net. I have been using them for over fifteen years and never once did I ever have an issue with their service. They have saved my bacon many times and always send the right equipment to get you going. They will ask a lot of question when you call for help so they can help you.

Do not walk away from Good Sam's-RUN. Good Sam's has the worst reputation, AAA is a Joke and the most problems of getting it right. Most of the insurance Company's that offer or provide Road Service have no clue about the difference between a Motor Home and and Automobile.

With Coach Net, every vehicle you own is covered.

The majority of our Members have Coach Net and very few have ever had any issues with their service. Coach Net offers many good service for the RV-er.


Roadside Assistance Suggestions
Wrayj1

Bill, I would look deeply at reviews and any other info you can find on Good Sam, I have not heard good reports on them.  Hopefully you will get some feedback on Good Sam from this forum.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Cubflyer

I always fill my tires to cold pressures when my tires are cold, usually in the morning so sun has not been shining on them.  Last summer I started my trip at about 200' above sea level.... traveled to Denver... about 5000' above sea level, on to SLC, again even higher..... and also the temps were warmer.  I monitored my tire pressures with that cheapo TPS and never added or removed any air.... I did use a mechanical TP gauge (dial type) once on the 6 week trip, just to confirm my cheapo TPS... (the TPS is not super accurate, but is a good 'reference' and does show temperatures too, gives audio warnings for high or low pressure and at least high temps...)  My tires have never 'gained' pressure except for by the heat generated while going down the road...... at least not enough for me to notice... I'm not 'super sensitive' .... more of a horse shoe and hand grenades when it comes to tire pressure.


loose mirror glass
Dwight Lindsey

Deryle:

My lower convex fisheye mirror was also loose and rattling.  One day it blew off while going down the road.

The replacement kit worked perfectly.  The kit is more than the mirror, it includes the piece the mirror attaches to.

Dwight


Roadside Assistance Suggestions
Ron Jones

We have had CoachNet for several years with coverage on several RVs during that time. We have used them several times both when we needed a tow and when it could be fixed on the spot but for a variety of reasons. They have done everything for me they were supposed to do and on time. Some others MAY be okay but I do not have that experience. I DO recommend CoachNet.

Good Luck.

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Monaco on Tow Truck 002.jpg


Roadside Assistance Suggestions
SigPIlot

Tried many of them. Be sure to check the fine print. Been with Coach Net for many years. No plans to change! Great help and service. 


Roadside Assistance Suggestions
BobSchmeck

We have AAA good for 150 miles. You better have the RV plan or won't do you much good. 

Heard good things about coach net. I watch a lot of you tube. All of them are great till you are in a place that they don't have a good presence.  As with anything you cross your fingers and hope for the best.  Seen good & bad with all of them.  


Anyone know what this is?
96 EVO
8 hours ago, georgecederholm said:

If you do choose to increase the tag pressure (weighing with motorcycle on board strongly recommended), it might make sense to check the specs on the pressure valve. Our 2005 Exec, either due to design on the 45 PBQ floor plan and/or the way we load things, requires about 60-65 PSI in the tag to get the front axle weight in line. I found our original tag regulator was only rated for 0-50 PSI, which explained why it constantly leaked air. I replaced it with a Watts 0-125 PSI regulator, which came with a new gauge, and haven’t had an issue since.

The floor plan and coach length can make a big difference to how much the tag needs to be loaded. Ours has a lighter generator up front (10k vs 12.5k), the washer/dryer aft of the bed, 8 house batteries instead of the original 4, and the chassis batteries right inside the engine compartment door. Plus, it has the Detroit Diesel option which I believe adds quite a bit of weight to the back over the ISM. That’s why everyone else’s experience might not directly translate, and why getting at least axle weights for individual motorhomes loaded for travel is so important.

What's your axle weights with 60-65psi in the tag air bags?

Minimal difference in weight between same year 10 and 12.5k Onan generators! They both run the same engine.


Roadside Assistance Suggestions
Dennis-C

I've had the Good Sams Roadside Assistance since 2012 when we had the Minnie Winnie.  We recently sold that and got a Beaver Patriot.  I'm thinking I will still keep the GS program but also hook up with CoachNet.  Over the years I've called GS two times for dead battery in the car and both times I was told it would take 2 hours at least for help to arrive.  This wasn't in the boonies, but right in the city.  It was faster to call our neighbor and have them bring the portable jump starter gizmo to us.  I have heard other horror stories about the Good Sam service.  Beware.  I think carrying a couple of options is a good idea, though.

-Dennis

 


loose mirror glass
Gary Cole

Ramco has a how to mirror replacement guide on their website with pictures. Could be used to fix a loose mirror. I did doubled up on VHB tape which is used to secure the mirror to the base.


Roadside Assistance Suggestions
Dr4Film

I started with Coach-Net back in 2010 prior to leaving CA and traveling full-time. I am still with them and will not switch to any other ERS. I have had three different tows, one in Oregon, One on the Cassier Highway in northern British Columbia and one on I-81 in Virginia. Each time the tow company had to bring two trucks, one for the coach and one for my 30 foot cargo trailer I was towing at the time. The tow in northern BC would have cost me close to $7000 as it was over 200 miles one way. It only cost me a signature.

They have always dispatched the proper equipment to handle the job safely without causing any damage.

I have put together a list of critical information needed whenever I have had to call them for a tow.

Here is the list below for my coach - 2002 Windsor.

Towing Information for Towing Company

Length of Coach = 41 Feet

Width of Coach = 108 inches

Weight of Coach = 36,000 lbs

Rating of Front Axle = 13,000 lbs

Rating of Rear Axle = 23,000 lbs

Total Weight Coach and Trailer = 48,000 lbs

Height of Coach = 12 Foot

Type of Suspension = Air Bag

How many Air Bags = 8 – 2 on each Wheel - Outboard

Front Cap Slide or No Slide = Front Cap Generator Slide

Transmission Model Number = Allison 3000MH

Distance from Front Cap to Front Axle = 96 inches

Clearance from Ground to Bottom of Coach = Varies


 

Always ask for a Class 8 Tow Vehicle

 


ABS light came on
Ivan K
2 hours ago, RoadTripper2084 said:

FYI On my '97 Dynasty the ABS light stays on until you move forward faster than 5 mph, I think.

 

I don't think it should be happening on every start. Maybe you don't wait for the lamp test to complete its ÷2s cycle before going from ON to START. The first thing an air brake endorsement examiner is looking for is the light to come ON and OFF before continuing the test.


Roadside Assistance Suggestions
BobSchmeck
9 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

I started with Coach-Net back in 2010 prior to leaving CA and traveling full-time. I am still with them and will not switch to any other ERS. I have had three different tows, one in Oregon, One on the Cassier Highway in northern British Columbia and one on I-81 in Virginia. Each time the tow company had to bring two trucks, one for the coach and one for my 30 foot cargo trailer I was towing at the time. The tow in northern BC would have cost me close to $7000 as it was over 200 miles one way. It only cost me a signature.

They have always dispatched the proper equipment to handle the job safely without causing any damage.

I have put together a list of critical information needed whenever I have had to call them for a tow.

Here is the list below for my coach - 2002 Windsor.

Towing Information for Towing Company

Length of Coach = 41 Feet

Width of Coach = 108 inches

 

Weight of Coach = 36,000 lbs

 

Rating of Front Axle = 13,000 lbs

 

Rating of Rear Axle = 23,000 lbs

 

Total Weight Coach and Trailer = 48,000 lbs

 

Height of Coach = 12 Foot

 

Type of Suspension = Air Bag

 

How many Air Bags = 8 – 2 on each Wheel - Outboard

 

Front Cap Slide or No Slide = Front Cap Generator Slide

 

Transmission Model Number = Allison 3000MH

 

Distance from Front Cap to Front Axle = 96 inches

 

Clearance from Ground to Bottom of Coach = Varies

 


 

Always ask for a Class 8 Tow Vehicle

 

 

 

Great information to have,  need to make my list. 

Thank you


Roadside Assistance Suggestions
Steve P

Coach Net sounds like THE choice... is their best service the 24/7 package?   It seems to be $249 (per year), which in my book, is a deal.  Is that rate pretty steady, or does it change significantly in future years? 


Roadside Assistance Suggestions
mmartinhouse

Another vote for Coach.net.  Have been there a few times with our coach in our times of need.   As a side note, another program I knew a little about but am now in the midst of using is the FMCAssist.It is a benefit as a member of FMCA. It is emergency medical evacuation and repatriation coverage available to members worldwide as long as you are more than 75 miles from home.   While camping in Wisconsin my husband had an ATV accident and broke his collar bone, 4 ribs and hip socket.  He is unable to put any weight on his right leg for 12 weeks, or raise his right arm above his shoulder for at least 6 weeks after pin and plate surgery.   He cannot drive for 12 weeks or longer, and cannot even physically get in the coach.  The assist program is helping to fly us home to Georgia, and hire a driver to drive our coach and toad back(I cannot drive coach, and people on the road would not want me too, 🙂.  There have been a few bumps in our dealings, but I would have been totally lost trying to figure all this out,  as well as his hospitalization and surgery so far from home.......................well worth the $50 membership fee........something else to consider as a "newbie". 


How to Block up a Signature 40 chassis for HWH servicing
Nevada Rob

I put about 12-14 inches between each step. That way the tire does not push on the next step before sitting on the first step. You can attach a chain/rope/strap to the first step then lay it out in line with your tire. The tire will be on the rope or strap first . That way the ramp can not slip forward. I have a series of 6 ramps. 4 of them are longer than the other two. Those longer ones are for the rear drive and tag axle.


2215 fault code
BradHend

After spending most of the weekend diagnosing and learning how the fuel system works and different ways of checking things, I came to the conclusion that it had to be the high pressure injection pump. Could not for the life of me get pressure to build up on the rail.  Sure enough, took out the CP3 pump just now and decided to investigate.   Dont need to explain much with those pictures.  
Getting a refurbed unit from a local guy for about $1300 Canadian.   Just to clarify also, my coach has started, idled and ran absolutely fine since I got it.  When this happened, it was basically at an idle approaching a yield sign.  I believe this is a good check for anyone that experiences a similar issue of not being able to build up  pressure and a 2215 fault - take that aluminum cover off, which is easily accessible, and check for a broken shaft.  Takes a bit of guess work out of the equation.  
I appreciate and thank everyone that chimed in on this.  Only thing that concerns me now is was it just the shafts time to go, or is there an underlying issue?

Will Hopefully be putting the replacement in this weekend, time and weather permitting.  I’ll keep yas posted.

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Roadside Assistance Suggestions
JDCrow

I’ve Driven by Coach-net building several times this week in Havasu I believe.


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow
3 hours ago, Cubflyer said:

I always fill my tires to cold pressures when my tires are cold, usually in the morning so sun has not been shining on them.  Last summer I started my trip at about 200' above sea level.... traveled to Denver... about 5000' above sea level, on to SLC, again even higher..... and also the temps were warmer.  I monitored my tire pressures with that cheapo TPS and never added or removed any air.... I did use a mechanical TP gauge (dial type) once on the 6 week trip, just to confirm my cheapo TPS... (the TPS is not super accurate, but is a good 'reference' and does show temperatures too, gives audio warnings for high or low pressure and at least high temps...)  My tires have never 'gained' pressure except for by the heat generated while going down the road...... at least not enough for me to notice... I'm not 'super sensitive' .... more of a horse shoe and hand grenades when it comes to tire pressure.

Ok, I don’t think they cooled down from the previous day. I had the new rears put on today and should be good to go in the morn. I just finished the sway bar, and it went well and my angles look pretty good. 2 bolts were 1/2” to long and had to run to tractor supply. They hit the axle as I was tightening them. Safety Steering back in as well

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The Trip from Hell
just_john1

I was asked for the GoFundMe link, I hadn't planned on posting it here, but here it is.

https://www.gofundme.com/f/getting-out-of-everett?utm_source=customer&utm_medium=copy_link&utm_campaign=p_cf+share-flow-1

Thanks. John

Thought I would provide an update. Cummins has cameras, but of course they don't aim in the right direction. I contacted a Mobile Mechanic and he came out to look at the rig. He confirmed the turbo is out. Doesn't know why it won't fire. Does anyone know where the diagnostic port on a 97 Dynasty is located? The OBD2 plug on this rig is useless it only has 4 contacts in it. The mech. said it should be round with 6 contacts. Am calling Cummins to see if they know. We are making progress kinda slow, but progress.

Now for something up beat. Met a Forum member, who  lives here. Really nice guy and knows the area and offers his assistance. Doesn't feel so lonely now. Thanks Gary for being here.


Roadside Assistance Suggestions
Gary 05 AMB DST
1 hour ago, mmartinhouse said:

Another vote for Coach.net.  Have been there a few times with our coach in our times of need.   As a side note, another program I knew a little about but am now in the midst of using is the FMCAssist.It is a benefit as a member of FMCA. It is emergency medical evacuation and repatriation coverage available to members worldwide as long as you are more than 75 miles from home.   While camping in Wisconsin my husband had an ATV accident and broke his collar bone, 4 ribs and hip socket.  He is unable to put any weight on his right leg for 12 weeks, or raise his right arm above his shoulder for at least 6 weeks after pin and plate surgery.   He cannot drive for 12 weeks or longer, and cannot even physically get in the coach.  The assist program is helping to fly us home to Georgia, and hire a driver to drive our coach and toad back(I cannot drive coach, and people on the road would not want me too, 🙂.  There have been a few bumps in our dealings, but I would have been totally lost trying to figure all this out,  as well as his hospitalization and surgery so far from home.......................well worth the $50 membership fee........something else to consider as a "newbie". 

I had Coach Net but changed to FMCA Road Service, thinking that FMCA would have a better plan. Found out after joining that they had a 100 mi limit. Not good in the middle of no where. I will be rejoining Coach Net in the spring when I hit the road again.

Gary 05 AMB DST


2215 fault code
Flyinhy

Awesome job! You're the man!! What's the actual pressure on that rail supposed to be.....just curious


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
Cubflyer

JD,

Yes the angles do look pretty good, almost like your sway bar 'arms' are a little longer than the arms on the one I installed, I'll have to look, but I do not think my links are as close to the H frame as yours.... if the bolts that were too long were the fwd bushing bolts, I think I put mine in with the heads on the axle side (put in place before I mounted the thick plate), but again, I'll have to look.  Same deal on the upper mounts on the link mounting (fwd) end.. head down, nut on top.....

Hope you notice an improvement, I believe you will... look forward to your report.

Ken

oh, and did it seem like you were bench pressing that sway bar when you put it up in place?  


Need help for continuing to modify Suspension
JDCrow

Ken,

Yeah flipping the bolts would have been the ticket. I just have a thing for bolts on bottom. Don’t know why. I did flip the long bolt that went in the arm side of the frame hanger mounts. Though the end didn’t touch or mess up the arm swinging, I just wanted more space. 
 

Heading out 12ish for Grand Canyon for a few days. 5 hrs or so of driving to see how she feels 

Here’s a Van or Bob question:

This week been trying to get a fab guy to come and build a frame to move the front watts from behind the front axle to on front of it. The idea expressed was needing 2 things: 1) get it away from panhard rod as much as possible, and 2) tie the front of the H frame to the solid center to get it stabilized 

As I’m under the coach today, I’m looking it and thinking about the issues I’m having, then I wonder, is there anything wrong with having 2 Watts set ups on the front? Other than a dent in my wallet? 
 

Also as I’m looking at the rear when the tires are off, it looks like the rear watts will be right next to the panhard rod as well. 

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Roadside Assistance Suggestions
Tom Wallis

I had Good Sam for years. The one time I called them they let me down. I had a flat 40 miles from the nearest tire shop. They said figuring out how to get there was on me.

I don't have Good Sam anymore.


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